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DANGEROUS BRAKES! (Part 2 - Mazda 3 ABS)
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- Опубліковано 12 сер 2024
- I found a used OEM ABS hydraulic unit / module assembly on eBay for this 2006 Mazda 3 to fix the sinking brake pedal.
Will this used part restore the braking performance? Or will there be more CURVE BALLS?
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Enjoy!
Ivan
Hey Ivan... You always have the most unique and interesting diags and repairs... Can't believe its been 6 or 7 years watching these...
I know it…I repair electronics and I think the analytical thinking part very useful. Great work Ivan from canada!
Yeah.. I came late. Only been here a year or two. But it has been a fun ride. lol
I was employed by Lucas, a British company that manufactured ABS units in Michigan for many years. During that time, Lucas had eliminated all the temporary workers in this facility. That was an amazing place to work. The disparity between the European management mindset and the American was a thing of stark contrast. Lucas offered vacation time from day one, mental health days, full outstanding benefits package and stringent respect for the employees and a tight safety protocol to assure workers health. Then TRW, an American company with a profit at any cost mindset took ownership of the plant. TRW laid off full time employees, hired temps at slave wages, eliminated safety protocols, hired consultants to literally scream at workers to go faster ! Moreover, they cut costs in spite of detrimental effects on employee health.
The “ Vulture” capitalists at TRW, destroyed a business that was building critical tier one safety components and had no qualms about using a temporary workforce that openly stated,
“ I don’t care if these are the wrong O rings. I can’t afford the vehicle they go into anyways” Thankfully, I am no longer working in automotive. However, I always wondered how many bad, misplaced, rolled lip seals, wrong components and untested ABS units were pushed through in order to get production.
That particular ABS unit was, I believe built in one of the Michigan plants. More than likely, if it’s defective, under a TRW ran plant .
ABS modulators often need to be cycled as part of the bleeding operation to remove air from the valves and punp. You may find a function in your scan tool to do this under "special functions".
The pedal looked fairly soft after the repair compared to my car (have an 07 2.3 5MT) , a trick I learned from Eric the car guy was to go out and activate the ABS in a dirt lot or something to get the air out of the ABS module, made a world of difference on a 350z I worked on installing big brakes. Some cars also have ABS auto bleed using a scan tool as well.
Exactly right on both accounts
great tip. i've had this case on a few of my mazdas from about 2008-2017. It always seemed to occur or get worse near the end of a 3 year lease so I thought it was age related maybe the fluid and alloys in the parts involved. it didn't happen on my 2019 or 2022 (yet). i complained they couldn't fix it on every car...i'm gonna send them this vid next time lol
If replacing your own brake pads, crack the pressure line fitting on each caliper before pushing the piston back in, that will help keep dirt or corrosion in the caliper from being pushed back into the ABS block. Might save you from having to replace an ABS block down the road.
It naturally flushes your fluid that way too. Because you'll have to add more fluid to top it off.
It's the first time I've heard a good reason to crack the nipple open when doing pads. Thanks!
(Of course, the fluid will need topping off after)
@@MrAmorti it's totally not necessary unless you're OCD
Ivan,
Great video series - thank you! When I do a one-man brake bleed I use a old dresser mirror (10 x 18) positioned on the floor so I can see the fluid and bubbles into the waste container at all wheels from the drivers seat.
Paul (in MA)
perfect example of why you change your brake fluid every two years ,brake fluid is hydroscopic and attracts moisture which causes corrosion
Hy*G*roscopic
Not `hydrophilic'?
Considering this is a Ford/Mazda hybrid (from when Ford owned Mazda) this failure/repair sounds strangely familiar
2006-2010 CD3 platform cars (Fusion/Milan/MKZ/Zephyr) have a recall out on them (19S54) for HCU failure (this repair)
All to address the same complaint (soft/sticking/sinking) brake pedal
Something about the plating internal to these HCUs doesn't agree with some brake fluids as they age
Sounds like an engineering problem that should've lead to a larger recall, or people should service brake fluid more often 🤷♂️
Excellent repair as always Ivan 🫡
Hah! I have seen this exact problem only one other time...it was on a Lincoln MKZ haha
Have problem now with 2009 CX9. Ford all over this car.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I had a unit fail on a year old GLC300e hybrid, but it seemed to be a one off
This turned out to be more interesting (for us, surely not for you), than just the ABS unit swap. Great job recovering it.
PS: The fluid is probably old and it wouldn't hurt to replace it completely, to avoid future stuck valves.
Yes, I was thinking the same thing. Bad/old brake fluid may be the issue.
Unfortunately it will probably stick again in the next year or two. But at least now I know-- go hammer on the body of it, especially while doing a bi-directional control-- and maybe we can get them to rattle loose. I've never seen the hydraulic side go bad before though--- it's normally just the electronic side that fails.
The control valves get magnetized from the coils by removing the coils and then tapping on the valves you can demagnetize them it happens all the time on elevators hydraulic elevators They have basically the same theory and design as the ABS valves.
Hi Gary (from a retired elevator mechanic.)
Back in 1976 I left Pennsylvania State College to start a career as a aircraft mechanic. For the last 47 years I have done my car repairs with jacks and jack stands. Last year I splurged on a set of Quick Jacks to do any new projects. I can’t believe what a big difference they made. Highly recommend them!
I just noticed... Watch the battery voltage as he activates/deactivates the solenoids. Good to know if you can't here the click, you can see the voltage drop!! Handy!
Excellent work and top tip keeping the pedal pressed when disconnecting the ABS unit 👍🏻 I only recently invested in a crowfoot wrench set for some painful job and it was a lifesaver!
Same thing happened to me last time I replaced one of these with a used unit for a used car lot customers, this abs failure is very common on these era Mazdas, I won’t install anymore used units on these Mazdas, the failure is way too common to risk a used unit. That was fantastic watching you trouble shoot the new unit though
I put a used in my 2009 CX9 and paid and it was junk. 2 master cylinders later, I'm going to have to buy a new ABS module. But I'm going to take a hammer to the module in place first to see if I can shock it.
@@zaffo757 what you can also do is find a gravel road and slam your brakes and get the ABS to activate like 10-15 times in a row and sometimes that will shock the module into working again. I say gravel road because it doesn’t take much effort to get the ABS to activate on gravel
How many people would take that unit apart, have the wherewithal to energize the magnets with a hunk of ferrous material (i.e. bolt) to confirm electronic integrity, and in doing so, logically boil down another defective hydraulic unit to simplest terms, without simply feeling defeated by receiving another junk part!? I am impressed! And quite simply, humbled by your diagnostic prowess, Ivan! You make techs better with every video you make! Thanks man!
I don't know of ANY mechanic that would do this. That is what sets Ivan apart from all the others. He tackles problems the others would pass on.
First time I actually did that magnetic coil test and it worked like a charm! Just happy the hammer tap freed up that sticky valve haha
It really did work like a charm!! Super cool. Offers a great visual of magnetism at work!
@@mejesse809 get off your high horse there fella! We all come here to learn. And to offer the guy spending all the time sharing the knowledge a little praise is called being respectful, and appreciative. If you’re here to troll, make like a herd of geese and flock off!
Good lesson you gave us IVAN.I'm glad you hit it.I've used spool valves in my job,and found when buying a valve if it is not one that ordered often it may sit on a shelf for years.Most if not all spool valves of that small type are lapped for fit and the clearance maybe .0002 to .0005 without liquid or light ASSEMBLY grease they may need a PUSH or knock to get loose.And free up.They don't use o rings for the simple reason o rings wear out or dry-out of get cut from dirty fluid .good work on sourcing out a crossover piece.
Damn! Thank You for making this video as it saved me a $2000 bill from the dealer
My daughter's 2007 Mazda 3 had the same issue and so I bought a bidirectional scan tool and found one stuck valve.
I turned it on/off a bunch of times while tapping the ABS module with a heavy crescent wrench and got is unstock 🤙
Breaks work like new 😜
WIN!
I'm going to try this.
@@DS-ss7vl it's been 9 months and still good 👍
Perhaps the original unit would have responded to a few hammer taps as well?
Well done, another topic I knew nothing about. If the new module is not charged with brake fluid, it may stick because of lack of lubrication.
Thanks for the great videos Ivan. I've noticed quite a few comments in this and the previous video from people that suppose the source of the problem is "worn out" brake fluid. I've been a tech for close to 30 years now. ABS has been around for longer than that and we are really only seeing this type of high rate of failure in newer vehicles. My hypothesis is that the problem is the parts manufacturers (ATE seems to be the brand that we have replaced the most of, many OEM's use their ABS system) have figured out a cheaper material to use on the hydraulic control units. How many old Camry's and Accord's with ABS and brake fluid that had 200K plus on it did you see fail? Just my 2 cents. Like everything else, planned obsolescence.
My closest Ford dealership replaced the ABS unit (factory recall), for my 2010 Fusion and they didn't bleed the system. I distrust dealerships so much I simply drove it home with barely any brakes and performed the ABS auto bleed function with my scanner and then manually bleed each wheel. I kept some of the old brake fluid because they said they flushed the lines, and it was very clear after looking at the old fluid, they did not change anything. At least the ABS unit looks new, so I'm guessing they actually replaced the recalled part.
Ugh typical lol
The gentle art of percussive maintenance! I went to college for three years to learn where to hit things and how hard 😄
Before I got the super cool pressure bleeder kit I used the same way to bleed brakes for years . You develop all kinds of gimiks and tricks when you work on your own.
One of my favorite video podcast channels even though I don't have a similar problem. It's more about how to approach a problem.
Very cool test with the bolt and the electro magnets. Great diag and fix Ivan!
Probably the most valuable demo of ABS service and bleeding of this type of system I have seen on UA-cam. Mine is an older type that has a separate reservoir for ABS and an ABS pump located near the core support. Wondering how I would need to treat that differently to bleed the ABS to exchange the fluid?
You might of been able to get the valve moving again in the old unit, by forcing abs action on a dirt or gravel road and it might of freed it up.
Good to see this video. My Toyota Tiger 2000 (Hilux Thailand) brakes were good but never great. After 20 years, I had the ABS unit removed. I have always been a big pedal pumper and not a brake sharply person. Things are now looking sweet.
I've been watching about every video from this channel since 2016, the only channel I've the notification bell on 🛎
Looking forward to the next one 👌
Plenty more to come! Thank you for your support :)
People need to realize a brake fluid flush every couple of years could save you the price of an abs module. Great work Ivan
Great job! I miss my old Mazda 3. Was literally the most reliable/low cost car I ever owned.
And pretty zippy with the 2.3 :)
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Ithaca says hello! 🙂🙂
Ivan, I would have been on my third master cylinder replacement by now! Great video. Thanks for Sharing!
Ivan, you need to get yourself a Motive power bleeder. They sell them on amazon with various master cylinder adapters. Very affordable. Its like a modified garden sprayer but for master cylinders. Fill up the jug, pump up the pressure, and crack the bleeder(s). No pedal pumping involved and the brake fluid keeps flowing and filling the reservoir.
I tried one of those a long time ago. The cap design was ridiculously difficult to get on the master cylinder correctly. The flipping thing wound up spewing brake fluid all over the place. Threw it in the trash.
@@Fjord_Driver now days they have specific caps for different makes and models. I have the Ford, GM, VW, amd chrysler specific caps and never had an issue
Don’t think you’ll see this happening. He uses a snow brush as a pedal depressor and rebuilds cylinder heads on his shop floor using cardboard boxes. Not exactly “professional level” repairs. Ivan is a great diagnostician and I support his channel for his troubleshooting and electrical system knowledge….but I’m still not overly impressed with his shade tree mechanical repairs.
Ok, I'll admit it, originally I thought it was either needing bleeding, or the Master cylinder was toast. Great job, Ivan!
I wasted my time replacing 2 master cylinders.
My car have had this problem for almost 2 years now and I am still driving it everyday, I can't wait to test this fix.
It’s amazing the diagnostics you can do with that scan tool Ivan. I think it’s time for me to invest in one lol.
Can't really work on a modern car without a scanner...even brake jobs and oil changes often require a scanner!
I was expecting ABS bleed proceedure like on a GM. Another job well done my friend.
Ivan those ABS valves are very sensitive to sticking from residue, this is why you should NEVER push caliper pistons back in without having the bleed nipple loosened and a hose attached to send the old fluid in the caliper into the container and not back up the line into the ABS unit. Its all fine and dandy until the ABS valve or valves seize up and locks one or more brakes. Trust me, getting the issue resolved is a real annoyance and time waster..
Before replacing module, can you take apart a clean up it with brake clean?
That was a very informative video! I try to change my fluid every year or two. 2 cars I'm responsible for are old enough not to have ABS. It was interesting to see the hydraulic diagram - I'd never seen that before.
One option is to remove the electronics part from the original ABS unit and try to tap loose the valves. If that does the trick, very inexpensive repair. (Brake fluid need to flushed at least twice).
Sticky valves could be old fluid with crud in it problem, getting new fluid in the system might increase the chance of success. Have seen vacuum blead equipment that hooks to compressor.
Good for many more miles. The Ford "F" series truck units I replaced would not upload the old electronic module info for the new one. With the IDS I did the Programmable Module Installation. It worked. The 2003-2004 "F" Series had the module on the bottom of the Hydraulic Control Unit. Talk about planned obsolescence! The fluid leaked from the HCU into the electronic module! Goodbye to both parts! Another one of Ford's "better ideas!"
Good job Ivan.
Some valves are pilot operated so you would need a pressure differential to complete the "shift". I believe there are some like this in an automatic transmission. Great work on getting the customer back on the road with minimal expense.
In order to get the same era Bosch ABS in my Citroen Xsara (2000) to bleed all air out of the system, you need to use OEM Citroen Lexia diagnostics, to run ABS bleed function. It operates the pump motor and valves one wheel at the time and in addition, you need to press the pedal at the same time. Tool does not tell you to do so, but that was the only way I was able to get all air out. Usually I use a pressurized brake fluid container to keep the system pressurized and the car BF reservoir topped up at all times. I thought that pressure from the pressure bleeder would be enough to push out the air when running the ABS bleed function, but the flow was too slow to push out the air from highest points of brake lines above the ABS unit. Using the pedal did the trick :)
Hi Ivan, I have a ‘09 Mazda 3 which had an ABS module fault ( ABS Traction control light stayed on) with the ABS function not working. The solution was to replace the whole module, but the mode numbers had to be identical to the one on my faulty unit. This is the number attached to the black ABS motor ( the big white label). This was quite expensive for me, as this was one of the less common modules where I live , and the the car has done 204K miles. There is another skilled , British/ Portuguese automotive technician here on YT that went through repairing the same problem as I had.
Hey Ivan I thought you may have finished this job off with an auto bleed with the scanner to leach every last bit of air out of the abs block
Kenny from Sydney Australia.
Keep it coming Ivan love your videos.
If you've put too much fluid into the reservoir, or there dirt floating on top, I find dipping a paper towel in will pick up all that gunge. If you need to remove a lot of fluid easy enough to use a syringe to suck it up out of the reservoir.
I don't know if your scanner has it, but when bleeding an ABS valve body, I like to activate the pump, then manually bleed the system as normal. In MOST systems, when you do the bidirectional controlled pump activation, the ABS module holds the valves open to help diagnose a stuck closed valve. It also shoves the air out quicker if you were to do say a line replacement.
Like all fluids on cars they need to be flushed periodically to help keep from Parts failure.
Excellent repair Ivan. Very through in the diagnoses and the inspection of the new/used unit. (I got to get me one of them break bleeder things!!) lol
First let me say I love you for making this video… Everything about it is perfect. I learned absolutely everything. It helps as I am mechanically inclined so I understand it perfectly. My wish because I own a Master 3 would be to bypass that crazy thing and get rid of it. Not once ever have I used or needed antilock brakes and in the winter there inconvenient and annoying. Mazda did not do anyone any favors as this part is too expensive and breaks down often. After you used a hammer it's risky giving it to a customer I hope he did have good luck. I definitely do not like that ABS module. For me it's not needed
Yup I have the ABS disabled on my own truck...haven't missed it once in 13 years of ownership haha
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics That's not fair now I hate you because I'm jealous… Ha ha… Where are you I need you get that stupid ABS garbage out of my car. I just had my replaced and the mechanics didn't even check because the first thing they did was replaced a perfectly good master cylinder to find out it did nothing then charge extra for the ABS module. I'm a computer technician so I don't specialize in automotive but I'm telling you I am mechanically inclined and what a disaster those modules are. Mazda should have a recall for all of them… Anyway good for you
This is why brake fluid flushes are important, brake fluid being hygroscopic may create problems in those valve bodys.
Definitely a brake flush! All fluids have a service life including the brake fluid, and unfortunately the 1st to go is the ABS unit. I flush mine every 3 years, great video Ivan!!! 👊
I try to activate my pump every so often too. Grave road or icy conditions help
In part 1 Ivan mentioned the brakes had been bled as part of his or someone else's troubleshooting, which may have pretty much flushed the system.
Outstanding as usual Ivan. Maybe a fluid change is in order. As Eric O would say, "There`s your problem Lady", it`s a ford product. I will not buy from Evilbay, did it once, never again. Been watching for years, and I always learn something even if I will never use the info. Does the brake fluid look like Shrek piss? You need a degree to work on these cars, that`s why my "newest" car is a 2002. I miss simple cars, no computers.
Interesting to know you can test the ABS system with a auto scan tool. Of course it has to have the ability to do ABS tests which are a few hundred dollars.
Also keep the pedal depressed when changing calipers. Done it on a Jeep and a Ram in the last few years.
The ABS module needs a test program written in the scanner to cycle though all the valves. My music amplifier has a white noise test function (as do many) to hear if all of your speakers are essentially plugged in by cycling through them.
I have a Mity Vac also and have used it to do one man bleeds. But I have never seen anyone pull off a bleed like that. I always assumed letting off the pedal would suck air back into the caliper. Sometimes people say to stuck the hose directly into fluid but I don't trust that, either, because air could come in at the bleeser screw. It's not sealed at the threads when open.
I assume that one side of that brake fluid bottle has a straw that goes to the bottom. Once there is some fluid in there, it can only pull fuild back, no air. So if he had the right side of the collection bottle hooked up, it should be fine.
@@_RiseAgainst If it's a regular Mity Vac canister, no straw.
When you release the pedal the one-way seals in the master cylinder have very little "suction" so almost no air is sucked back into the caliper via the bleed nipple. That's why before tightening the nipple I take off the hose and just let the fluid drip to make sure there are no bubbles a the top of the caliper :)
@@kevin9c1 Yes there is a "straw" submerged in the little bottle...
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Really? Mine just dumps into the container. Nothing is submerged. Is that from a Mity Vac or something else?
Love your engineering approach to diagnose the problems. Can you do a destructive teardown and analysis of the bad abs manifold?
"Destructive Teardown"...I like it :D
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics My Daddy always said "If it went together it can come apart." Ohm check on the coils to find a weak one?
I'm an Indy shop owner. I had a customer with a 2013 escape that was at local dealer. They had "repaired" the left front wheel speed sensor wiring and still had a left front code. They told him that he needed a new module. Quotes 1300 replacement. He called me and at that time. I questioned the replacement but didn't stick to my guns. After months our schedules aligned and he brought the car in. I couldn't find the damn module and once I did it was in same place as this Mazda buried and backwards. My plan was just to remove the electrical part. Once I seen I was gonna have to swap whole module I decided to diag it. Long story short dealer tech had cut the rf sensor and wires lf sensor to rf input. Also the "new wire" had 3 splices in it where the tech had swapped wires by cutting the new wire 3 times. In my opinion that dealer should refund him or pay my bill.
I'm assuming that you are saying that the 'new' wire ckt was in fact an open ckt. Meaning the sensor was not being seen by the module? and you had to repair or replace that wire, to achieve ckt continuity? If so, the previous 'tech' did not complete/perform a repair and you in fact did complete the repair of the ckt and the previous tech should not be paid for the work, you should be paid. If all of the above is incorrect or an incomplete assumption, well this summary would also be incorrect.
@@paulkaz2127 The tech at the dealership ran a "new wire" between abs module and left front sensor. The new wire had 3 or 4 splices between the abs module and the left front sensor. Im assuming he was swapping wires back and forth thinking he got them on wrong side of sensor. When he ran the new wire he cut the yellow and purple wire on the end of the connector. The problem was he cut the wrong yellow and purple wires. Left front and right front both at opposite ends of connector. He wired the left front sensor to the right front input which still left a left front code. Then told customer he needed new module.
Great job Ivan ! Now try it with no Scanner or manual. LOL ! Same exact problem with my daughters Mazda .. Got to ABS after 2 calipers (bleeders snapped) 2 Master cylinders, thought first one was, No good ! ordered rebuilt booster. As a guess !!. (I was desperate!) After 2 days of brain fry, Canceled booster, they were good company and very understanding. It's my daughter's car!! Like you I found a used one. I was very,very LUCKY! and it worked ! Again Great job and GREAT video!! Thank you .. John
I had this on a Subaru, the customer never appreciates all the hoops we have to jump thru to fix their cars!
Well you do get a check at the end. :)
Epic work mate, I don't touch any thing with any sort of computer. I have learnt a lot from your videos, so might have to get my self a scanner.
As Scotty Kilmer says, gotta fight computers with computers haha
Good job! How did the test ride go? Sorry, I did fast forward some…how much was the part?
Mazda tech here. This is incredibly common on those models. A lot of people throw master cylinders, and boosters in them, and they still need the ABS module 😆
Gonna have to try this with my boys rx8, having similar problems. Usually when it's the MC, it's intermittent, and you can still pump it up once you get the cup inside the cylinder to seal. That's the reason I didn't want him to replace the MC, it just didn't seem right to me.
Just hope my launch 431 can activate all the valves. Thanks Ivan
Find a gravel road or a wet grass spot and do a few hard brakes so ABS activates. It is good for the system to activate from time to time.
@@petrnemecek4379 we used the launch to activate the abs for bleeding, still feels like air in line. We've gone through a gallon of fluid bleeding it every way to Sunday, 😆 🤣 😂
I'm just hoping launch can activate the valves independently to see if any of them are stuck. I'll find out in a few weeks.
I have a motive power bleeder system, well worth the money. We've also tried the old 2 person manual bleed, along with a vacuum bleed, "pulling the fluid from the caliper end"
Excellent video with explanations well done. Thank you. In retrospect, maybe tapping the original module would have broken loose it's stuck valves, also????
The actual video topic has been discusses enough, but man - those are SOME exhaust pipes 😄
catching up on the series, control module replacement. l looks like a mighty vac break evacuation, well done nice neat and tidy I hate brake fluid it can be very messy at times.
Lack of maintenance strikes again. I would guess the internal valve mechanism is some kind of steel which rusts with the moisture absorbed in the brake fluid. As others mentioned, the fluid was definitely dark and well past the required brake fluid change intervals. BTW the those valves could probably be triggered with a permanent magnet for testing purposes, the design looks similar to most solenoid valves. I'm surprised the scan tool would let you activate each valve without brake pressure applied as most domestic vehicles do.
Ivan, was there any ABS bleed procedure on that vehicle?? The first time it gets activated, you may loose your brake pedal due to all the trapped air behind the valves...
Man, a bonus repair with the junkyard part.
On the Mazda 3 abs unit for the grad student on a budget, I was wondering if it needed brake fluid to operate at its best? Though, now I see that you have it apart & I am confident that, You are the best at electrical testing!!! If anyone can fix it, ITS YOU IVAN!!!! Also, I am going to take a guess the Ford vehicle that abs unit came from was possibly a Focus????
Wow, replace whole thing and hit it with hammer to make it work. Uuugh, hope it was fine! Great replacement job! Looks fairly decent to work on. I hate doing abs stuff as that scares me lol. You're braver than i am lol. Great job, Ivan!
This one gave me a chuckle. Reminds me of all the times I tried to keep the budget down for a friend. Ya always end up donating a little more of your time then ya want to.
no doubt doing repairs especially for friends always costs… just sucks it’s usually the guy doing the work that it costs and the charity never truly appreciates or covers the additional cost to you
Had same issue on my 07 Buick Allure, had a weak click using a magnet to operate the solenoid, compared to others. I bled the solenoid in question, and it eventually worked IE closed and problem was solved, except now have idiot lights on from touching the wiring harness, and no way to figure how to trace where the wiring cables go.
Hi Ivan, did you bleed the hydraulic unit as well? I may guess there is still air trapped in there and it may get released into the system once it activates. There should be a procedure for that (in the scan tool), activating the pump and valves in a certain sequence, it should be common practically with all similar ABS units. The procedure may differ whether there is ABS alone (so designed to only release brakes when the brake pedal is depressed), or whether there is the ESP/EBD/brake assist/... (it can also apply individual brakes without depressing the brake pedal), it differs in the arrangements of the hydraulics and of course the control unit as well. Unfortunatelly I don't remember the exact procedures...
Some of these units you can get the pump or valve body separately, nice job
Change your brake fluid! It's one of the most neglected fluids! Old corrosive brake fluid kills ABS modules all the time.
The BK Mazda 3 is notorious for having bad earths behind the left headlamp. If I was changing out the hydraulic block I'd always clean those earths as part of the repair.
I have found that as long as you have 2 people, yourself &;1 other, one depress the brake pedal & the other unscrew the brake line from the master cylinder just enough for fluid to leak, you can bleed the master cylinder that way!!!
BONUS WITHDRAWAL - Ohh, the pain . . . Why, Ivan? I thought you liked us . . .
Diagrams and experiments!
Pretty neat!
Never new you could one man bleed. Nice Ivan!
I'm a one-man show haha
Good video Ivan. I’m loving my ThinkTool Pros and every video I learn one more thing it can do. Can they put these things in a worse spot to have to work on them. Hey, are those OSHA approved work shoes, lol.
That is a bosch mk60 and it has an inteenal bleeding procedure. Btw, the old module is also good :)
Failing abs modules are an ever growing problem especially with average 12 years old cars on the road. I went through 4 so called remanufactured modules on my E39 . All shipped with QA/QC labels and bar codes etc so I was hopeful. They were all bad . RockAuto isn’t even selling them now .
Ivan thank you for your detailed testing but I think I recall hearing you say "you hit it with a hammer" this is not shown on the video.
I like watching Ivan's videos drunk at 1am. I. Need. Help. Damn you UA-cam.
😂
Wonder if it could have been a no parts repair if younwould have tapped the old unit? Also, how mong will it last? I dont trust it.. but under the circumstances if the customer didnt want to shell out $1200 for a new one not much you can do.
Replaced the master cylinder on one of those last week. It was leaking and not knowing it, the customer let it run out of fluid. The car literally had no brakes to speak of, though he was still driving it for months out of necessity to get to work. Needless to say, all that air in the ABS module didn't do any good, and there isn't an auto-bleed function on these as far as I know (other than just activating the pump motor fwiw). Anyhow, at least now the car has brakes, though he couldn't afford to also have the module replaced. So we ended-up where you started on this one. I am appalled to see how many people drive with no brakes simply because they can't afford it. That in addition to people driving with no license or insurance in Florida (a story for another day). Good techniques in your video...
Do not operate those valves dry, they have a pintle much like fuel injectors
Great vids, I’m 2hr40min away from you by the way, north of Pittsburgh
A gentle tap with the hammer. Like splitting a diamond gentle?
Nice job Ivan 👏👏👏👏👏👍👍👍
The fact that banging the Control Module with a hammer makes me think a poor solder connection on circuit board. May get the same code after swop. Interesting diag.
I tapped the hydraulic unit... Not the electronic module 😅
Ivan,you are the man
Wow, really nice work!
Good job Ivan. Thanks!
Did you check to see if you can do ABS module bleed program with the scan tool? When I did my truck brakes, I didn't like the way my pedal felt after bleeding manually, so I did the auto bleed with the scan tool, and that helped.
I was wondering that, this car may not have that capability.
I own a 2007 mazda3. In terms of bleeding, I would add another step after manual bleed: activate the abs a few times and then bleed again to make sure there are no air bubbles trapped I side the HCU.
The brake fluid that came out of the right rear looked alot darker than the others.