I looked for videos to explain how to wire a DPDT relay, and looked at multiple ones, and yours was the best and helped to finally correctly wire a linear actuator for my project; thanks!
Thank you. We have been working off a different UA-cam video that didn't show the wiring. Great job giving us the step-by-step instructions.... Wife was beginning to doubt if this was going to come together. You are a life saver!
best video u make ,,,, clear for beginners can u make a video for all relays just like this normall y open relay normally closed.. double pole relay .....double throw relay.... dpdt already u made it.????
The mount I got has some screws listed, but it doesn't list 7. The numbers are On the bottom left: "12, 6" On the top left "14, 13" On the top right "4,1" On the bottom right "8,5" Wtf? So I assume 12, 13, 14 means it could be either 1 or 2, 1 or 3, 1 or 4, etc. But what's the deal with the lack of a 7????
@@MrVARhythm I'm not sure. I'd have to actually look at the mount, the relay, and the diagram. In the video I somewhat explain the diagram that is on the relay. You could slide the relay up a little bit, and sneak a multi meter probe between the relay and the mount, touching the relay pins where they enter the mount and then find the mount screw that corresponds to the relay pin by doing a resistance test.
It's just a different system. Same thing. I figured it out. But everything is made in China and now one year later I am rewiring the entire thing. I accidentally ordered the wrong sized relays twice for the base I had. How do you figure out if the base is gonna fit the relay without going to an actual store to try and fit them together??? What a freaking headache....
Awesome video. Thanks! I’m was able to wire mine up following your tutorial. I wired mine up to run off power that I have in the coop instead of a battery,. Again, thanks for sharing.
We had a sparky who liked sabotaging other guys work. He would install a blown control & a 480 volt fuse to drive guys crazy. I wired in the spare NC ( normally closed contacts ) on a relay in series with the 120 volt relay coil and cut the wire on two of the Allen & Bradley overload coils so motor never came on. Relay was chattering due to turning on & off couple of times a second. Took him halve a day to troubleshoot and get it working. That was last day before he went in vacation. While he was in vacation we dipped his screwdrivers & wrenches into hot glue tank so they had a nice rock hard inch covering of glue. He stopped messing with guys work after that.
I have a chicken coop with an automatic door that I bought off Amazon which works just fine, but I want to automate the raising and lowering of the roosting bar on my Hen Gear nesting box. This video was very helpful in getting me started. Thanks!
DPDT Relay link not working and you left out a link to relay base. I was about to give up looking, the last video i was going to watch about this was yours. Glad i watched, now i can do this. Thanks
Thanks for the heads up. Looks like the first link is working now, and the alternate wasn't. The first link is the exact one I use in the video, and the alternate appears to be the same relay. Both should come with the base.
@@MrDavew402 Totally. I thought of that because the daylight changes so much relative to time. But it would have to be tuned properly and I'd be worried that it might close early on cloudy days. Also my coop is already in a shaded area. But if you were to do it, you'd just replace the timer with a solar panel. There are a few other videos on this. One thing I was thinking is to put a capacitor or small battery in the circuit to effectively delay the closing of the door until it is absolutely dark. Then I started thinking about adding an ESP8266 in there so I could monitor the state of the door, and have pre-set times on a per month basis for opening and closing.
You should use an octal relay if you are going to do this. But I highly recommend using two SPDT timers. No need for an external relay and they save the power being on all day. I would give you links but youtube won't even let me link to youtube videos.
Great video. I did learn how to wire a relay. I hope you will do another one for a rabbit's door because my rabbits are much faster than chickens and will escape before the door closes. 🐰
The wiring would be the same, you just need a faster liner actuator. And instead of a linear actuator you probably want something gravity fed... you don't want the door crushing a rabbit.
11:41 do not "crank down and tighten" As you can see he puts the wire from three to two but then has to put a wire from two to eight. 12:04 Notice that he had to loosen terminal two to get that done. Never tighten the screws until all the wires are where they need to go. Side Notes: Finally: Use Octal relays and sockets. Makes it so that wires are not crossing over the terminal screws. So if you screw up (pun intended) you don't have to remove wires that are crossing over in the way. First. Use two SPDT timers and take out all the hassle of using that DPDT relay. That actuator power wiring is the same thing, but the two timers cut out the middleman (aka DPDT relay) and having to wire it. B: Use wire lever nuts/WAGO snap connectors or snap splitters. Makes wiring so much easier. III - Use wire ferrules. Eliminates all that exposed wire at the terminals and makes it easier to slide into the terminal. No stray wires. Freeze at 14:38. Freeze at 12:20 where he still has to put the wire on terminal 8. If the wires were live or this was already setup, there is the danger of the screwdriver making contact with that exposed wire. Not good for future maintenance Videos available on my channel.
I have several suggestions for you. First. Use two SPDT timers and take out all the hassle of using that DPDT relay. That actuator power wiring is the same thing, but the two timers cut out the middleman (aka DPDT relay) and having to wire it. B: Use wire lever nuts/WAGO snap connectors or snap splitters. Makes wiring so much easier. III - Use wire ferrules. Eliminates all that exposed wire at the terminals and makes it easier to slide into the terminal. No stray wires. Freeze at 14:38 Videos available on my channel.
Big mistake i made was not double checking on Amazon to make sure i bought a 12 VDC relay. Usually spend a lot of time going over my orders but not this time. realized I bought a 110 V instead. No wonder I could not get current to flow. Thought it was the timer but it checked out ok. Then noticed on the relay case it said 110vac.
Thank you for the excellent video! I wonder if you could tell me how to do the same thing with a 12v transformer plugged into a smart out instead of a battery. Then the smart outlet would turn on to open the door in the morning by closing the actuator, then ? How would it then close the door later that night? All that smart outlet would do would be to turn on and off. How would I wire it to then close the door by extending the actuator?
Fantastic video, extremely well presented. A question, would it be possible to substitute the timer switche with a photo cell so the door opens when light ans closes when dark 🤔
It should be, but be careful. You'd have to put some logic in there so that it doesn't flap back and forth between on and off during dawn or dusk... or if a tree shades it, etc.
If you have the right photocell modules you don't have to worry about that. Left a link in the next comment of a video I made. Well I guess youtube doesn't want you to see my video. It keeps deleting my comments with the link.
@Aztec Warrior Greetings, thanks very much indeed for your input. For reasons far beyond my technical "know how,"I'm unable to see your comments. That's not totally surprising, as my dear friend says "Flanagan, your about as technical as a monkey with an alarm clock". At the moment i have my lights & door running on two separate timers. Whilst i don't necessarily need to, id like to simplify the system a bit. Kind Regards Nic Flanagan
Thank you so much! The vacuum actuators on my 68 Charger went out, now converting to electric and this save a lot of cash! One question: the headlight switch provides power to the headlights. I want to use the same switch to open the headlight doors. It is a positive signal. Can I run that 12v wire to terminal 4 and 7 thereby effectively replacing the switch which is now between four and seven? Thanks for this great video!
Hello I have a 12v THC15a Baomain rail timer and want to wire it to DPDT relay but pin 5 is NO and pin 3&4 is NC how do I wire this up together? I am trying to have the same setup as this video. Just lost with the extra pin configuration. Thanks
If the timer remains on, isn't it continuing to send power to the actuator? Though the actuator does stop, won't the continued flow of Power over heat the actuator?
i wired this according to the instructions. but can the actuator stay in a open or closed position till the timer closes or opens it. my settings seem to open it i run the timer for 1 minute then it closes. i don’t want the timer running in a open position drawing power. i was hoping after a 1 minute timer it would just stay open? help?
You always have a pair of contacts open (off) and a pair closed (on). The coil energized (you call it on) results in some contacts being closed (on) and some contacts being closed (off). The coil de-energized (you call ‘off’) results in some contacts being open (off) and some contacts being closed (on). Differentiating between the coil, the normally open (NO) contacts and the normally closed (NC) contacts will greatly reduce confusion.
Hey, Ive attempted to wire my setup identical to what you have in the tutorial and i cant seem to get the relay to function. Any advice? Ive tried two DPDT relays to make sure i did not have a faulty relay. I also tried multiple timers... Question i do have though is if the timer needs to be a specific model? Mine looked slightly different from the way yours looked in the video. My timers do not have 5 paddle ports... Is that where ive gone wrong? Thanks to whoever is willing to help!
I want to do something similar but I want it to open and then close immediately without pushing another button. I don't need the timer. I want to push one button and have it cycle open and closed. Can you tell me how to accomplish that?
Yes, there will be power available to the actuator at all times, but the key is once the actuator is fully extended or fully retracted there is an internal switch that disconnects power until the opposite voltage is applied to either extend it if it is fully retracted, or retract it if it is fully extended. I made another video on how I installed this in my chicken coop, and explained that part here: ua-cam.com/video/8NE4aQ7zncA/v-deo.html
Using two of these timers and a diode will make it so you don't have to keep power on all day long. You can do it with just the timers but you will have to do a series of off and ons. Best to just use the diode.
@@willworkforliberty You forgot to mention that when the timer and relay are on, they will be using power all day long. Not a lot of power but it's not nothing.
8/9/23. If I use this exact setup to open a feeding box for 2 hours, then it closes (the same linear actual which has its own limit switch). Can I add a rain module, during the two hours the box is open? Therefore if it rains the box will close. Is that possible?
Great video! I want to use this setup with a 12V battery but if I understand correctly the timer will send an "on" signal all day every day. Won't this drain the battery pretty quick?
I viewed your video hundred times and couldn't get it to work. Until I looked at the end and noticed the timer made a click noise. Bugger faulty timer. Very frustrating.
Great video. Well presented. I learned a lot . Can you do one adding an infrared sensor to prevent the coop door from closing while the chicken is in the doorway and using photo cell instead of a timer?
I thought of that, but the door moves slowly enough that they haven't been caught in it. Because there's so much bedding in that area I'd be worried the sensor would be tripped when there aren't any chickens in the way, and fail to close when it should. I also thought of the photo/solar cell. That's another idea, but again, I'd have to tune that to just the right voltage, and I'd be concerned that an overly cloudy day the door might close too early and lock chickens out.
@@willworkforliberty I 2nd @jimcasey8689 comment, great video i learned a-lot and was able to get my door working, a demonstration of how to add a sensor would be huge , those actuators could chop the chickens heads off easy, they r powerful :::edit(i dont want a photocell , just a sensor)
@@joeywolff5293 Strong but slow. Powerful but slow... Lots of irons in the fire right now, but I would like to make a video where I hook up an ESP to a sensor that would notify home assistant when the door is closed. (or if it is past a certain time an the door ISNT closed)...
@@joeywolff5293 You don't need a "Sensor" all you need is a pressure switch and a DPDT relay. If you just want it to stop at the point of obstruction. Or you can add a counter and use a TPDT relay, to try several times then stop at the point of obstruction.
I noticed the green LED did not illuminate when you switched your timer on manually. I think you need to switch the polarity of terminals 7 and 8. So you need to have 8, 4, and 1 on positive and then wire 7, 3, and 2 to ground.
What you are suggesting is NOT necessary. The LED does not need to be on, unless you want it to be an indicator light. It will work as a Flyback (EMF) blocking diode in either case. And there is NO ground. It is negative. You only use the term ground if you have chassis that is being used as a ground.
So i tried switching polarity as you described and it worked as you said i got green LED when manually on. I totally agree it does not matter at all, but was fun to try it and helped me learn the dynamics of an 8 pin relay. Thanks to everyone's input awesome, darn clever people on youtube.
Yes. You could replace the timer with an ESP8266 and some custom code. I was actually headed down that path at first but switched to the timer because it was easier. I might do a video on how to do this with an ESP8266.
Thank you for the very well done explanation! I wanted to wire this along with my Wyze Smart Plug but was stuck until I remembered I had a second 12v power supply in my pile. I wired one to be plugged in for constant power and the other to switch the relay coil on and off. I just plugged the power supply for the coil into the Wyze plug and it seems to be working fine as I intended, on my table anyway.
@@willworkforliberty You can just use a SONOFF 4ch or MHCOZY 4ch smart switch to do this. No need for external relay. I will try and link to a video I made that has a safety feature but you don't need it.
Thanks Love this - BUT I dont know shit about electronics but can follow directions and you made it easy. Questions I have i have a door that malfunctions by not opening - I press the remote and it will work again and just randomly not open again in a few weeks (Not temp related ) - I wanted to use my existing actuator and also my existing IR door safety and the photo electric cell I have too. How should I wire those in - please be basic as I said earlier - i dont know this shit at all. LOL thanks this is a great help.
Hi , i i where to use a motor and an string attached to the door so the motor would wind up the string lifting the door and then unwind it to lower the door where would i wire in the limit switches to stop it once it’s fully closed or opened?
I’ve connected mine all up here and i have the problem that the motor is activated all the time no matter what mode the timer is in , on,auto , off the motor still spins
Motor still spins? Are you using a linear actuator or a different device? The linear actuator has a built in limit switch that will stop (disconnect) once it reaches reaches the limit. The circuit shown here will always provide voltage in one direction or another.
Yeah I’m using a motor that I intend to hook up with limit switches, but I thought that when the timer was in the off position it wouldn’t be supplying power to the component, so if it’s always supplying power than the the times that you set just trigger it to change the polarity?
@@Alan-hd9ov Exactly. The switch (in this case a timer) just switches polarity. The linear actuator has a built in limit switch that stops the internal motor at the limits of extension and retraction.
Perfect thank you but see when the timer has is displaying the little off symbol on the screen when you cycle through the modes using the “ manual “ button should it still be supplying power to the component or have i crossed a wire somewhere by accident
I'm wanting to wire this relay to a smart relay called athom. The smart relay has an L-Out, L-in, N-in, N-Out, S1 & S2. Are you able to help me understand which wires should go in each slot?
I think what I'm not understanding is you have a Positive and Negative connected as Input and a Positive and Neutral connected as Output - but I have a Live and Neutral Input and a Live and Neutral Output.
@@user-yl5ix6xp4t You are way off in using this switch. That switch is for controlling AC voltage in a 3 way situation. They are not meant for this sort of thing. Use a SONOFF or MHCOZY, 4ch smart switch instead.
The DPDT relay is not available on Amazon at this time. Any other suggestions? Also wanting to use a Transformer as a power supply, will it work with tis?
Some people like the technical. I put chapters in so you can skip to the final wiring at the 11:16 mark. Or just use the diagram I linked in the description.
![Relay[Terminal Numbering system (relay pins) -IEC schematic symbol-Coil Voltage] Explained](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/aZAbim17KCs/mqdefault.jpg)
I looked for videos to explain how to wire a DPDT relay, and looked at multiple ones, and yours was the best and helped to finally correctly wire a linear actuator for my project; thanks!
UA-cam University really does exist. Random guy teaches electrical better than College Professors 😂.
Thank you. We have been working off a different UA-cam video that didn't show the wiring. Great job giving us the step-by-step instructions.... Wife was beginning to doubt if this was going to come together. You are a life saver!
Thank you so much - worked exactly as described, and now I'll be automating a whole bunch of openings!
Great video, exactly what I needed for my greenhouse window actuator project.
What a GREAT teacher, well done. You made this video so simple to understand. Thank you very much.
Great video. Your a excellent teacher. That would have taken forever for me to figure out and you sorted it all out. Thanks so much.
Legend mate. Exactly what I was looking for! Thanks for sharing. Well explained too 👍
Great explanation. (Minor point: your relay is electromagnetic no electronic.)
Thank you. Was having trouble figuring the power system to the actuator. U r a great help!
Glad I could help!
Wow, great explanation and delivery! Thanks for the video. It's really one of the best ones I've seen that described a DPDT relay. 😊
This was a brilliant explanatory video!
Thank you!
Awesome video, exactly the same thing I’m doing now, adding auto chicken coop door , Thanks👍👍
best video u make ,,,, clear for beginners can u make a video for all relays just like this normall y open relay normally closed.. double pole relay .....double throw relay.... dpdt already u made it.????
UA-cam keeps getting better and better....
Glad you enjoyed it!
The mount I got has some screws listed, but it doesn't list 7.
The numbers are
On the bottom left: "12, 6"
On the top left "14, 13"
On the top right "4,1"
On the bottom right "8,5"
Wtf?
So I assume 12, 13, 14 means it could be either 1 or 2, 1 or 3, 1 or 4, etc.
But what's the deal with the lack of a 7????
@@MrVARhythm I'm not sure. I'd have to actually look at the mount, the relay, and the diagram. In the video I somewhat explain the diagram that is on the relay. You could slide the relay up a little bit, and sneak a multi meter probe between the relay and the mount, touching the relay pins where they enter the mount and then find the mount screw that corresponds to the relay pin by doing a resistance test.
It's just a different system. Same thing. I figured it out. But everything is made in China and now one year later I am rewiring the entire thing. I accidentally ordered the wrong sized relays twice for the base I had. How do you figure out if the base is gonna fit the relay without going to an actual store to try and fit them together??? What a freaking headache....
Great tutorial, my project is for activating an electric valve, it should work lile a charme. Thank you!
Wow, just the video i needed. Thanks👍
You're welcome! Glad to help.
Awesome video. Thanks! I’m was able to wire mine up following your tutorial. I wired mine up to run off power that I have in the coop instead of a battery,. Again, thanks for sharing.
Mine is wired up on shore power as well. I've thought about adding a battery back up...
We had a sparky who liked sabotaging other guys work. He would install a blown control & a 480 volt fuse to drive guys crazy. I wired in the spare NC ( normally closed contacts ) on a relay in series with the 120 volt relay coil and cut the wire on two of the Allen & Bradley overload coils so motor never came on. Relay was chattering due to turning on & off couple of times a second. Took him halve a day to troubleshoot and get it working. That was last day before he went in vacation. While he was in vacation we dipped his screwdrivers & wrenches into hot glue tank so they had a nice rock hard inch covering of glue. He stopped messing with guys work after that.
I have a chicken coop with an automatic door that I bought off Amazon which works just fine, but I want to automate the raising and lowering of the roosting bar on my Hen Gear nesting box. This video was very helpful in getting me started. Thanks!
Very helpful thanks. Clearly explained.
DPDT Relay link not working and you left out a link to relay base. I was about to give up looking, the last video i was going to watch about this was yours. Glad i watched, now i can do this. Thanks
Thanks for the heads up. Looks like the first link is working now, and the alternate wasn't. The first link is the exact one I use in the video, and the alternate appears to be the same relay. Both should come with the base.
@@willworkforliberty Thanks man. Do you think a day/night sensor can be incorporated into the mix to control actuator instead of a timer ?
@@MrDavew402 Totally. I thought of that because the daylight changes so much relative to time. But it would have to be tuned properly and I'd be worried that it might close early on cloudy days. Also my coop is already in a shaded area.
But if you were to do it, you'd just replace the timer with a solar panel. There are a few other videos on this.
One thing I was thinking is to put a capacitor or small battery in the circuit to effectively delay the closing of the door until it is absolutely dark. Then I started thinking about adding an ESP8266 in there so I could monitor the state of the door, and have pre-set times on a per month basis for opening and closing.
You should use an octal relay if you are going to do this. But I highly recommend using two SPDT timers. No need for an external relay and they save the power being on all day. I would give you links but youtube won't even let me link to youtube videos.
As to the photocell, yes you can but again two astronomical timers will take care of that.
It really helps to my prototype
Superb explanation, keep it up!
Thanks, will do!
super clarification really use full video 👍
Great video. I did learn how to wire a relay. I hope you will do another one for a rabbit's door because my rabbits are much faster than chickens and will escape before the door closes. 🐰
The wiring would be the same, you just need a faster liner actuator. And instead of a linear actuator you probably want something gravity fed... you don't want the door crushing a rabbit.
11:41 do not "crank down and tighten" As you can see he puts the wire from three to two but then has to put a wire from two to eight. 12:04 Notice that he had to loosen terminal two to get that done. Never tighten the screws until all the wires are where they need to go.
Side Notes:
Finally: Use Octal relays and sockets. Makes it so that wires are not crossing over the terminal screws. So if you screw up (pun intended) you don't have to remove wires that are crossing over in the way.
First. Use two SPDT timers and take out all the hassle of using that DPDT relay. That actuator power wiring is the same thing, but the two timers cut out the middleman (aka DPDT relay) and having to wire it.
B: Use wire lever nuts/WAGO snap connectors or snap splitters. Makes wiring so much easier.
III - Use wire ferrules. Eliminates all that exposed wire at the terminals and makes it easier to slide into the terminal. No stray wires. Freeze at 14:38. Freeze at 12:20 where he still has to put the wire on terminal 8. If the wires were live or this was already setup, there is the danger of the screwdriver making contact with that exposed wire. Not good for future maintenance
Videos available on my channel.
I have several suggestions for you.
First. Use two SPDT timers and take out all the hassle of using that DPDT relay. That actuator power wiring is the same thing, but the two timers cut out the middleman (aka DPDT relay) and having to wire it.
B: Use wire lever nuts/WAGO snap connectors or snap splitters. Makes wiring so much easier.
III - Use wire ferrules. Eliminates all that exposed wire at the terminals and makes it easier to slide into the terminal. No stray wires. Freeze at 14:38
Videos available on my channel.
Good tips! Nice channel. Subbed.
@willworkforliberty thanks, much appreciated.
@Aztec_Warrior69 I’m searching for your channel. but not finding you
@@alanporter Click on my name.
@@alanporter I had no problem. Just clicked on name.
Thank you for this video !!!!
Very clear and thanks
Thank you so much!!
Glad to help!
This might be a stupid question.
Is the relay reversing the polarity to send the actuator back down or is it something else in this case?
Big mistake i made was not double checking on Amazon to make sure i bought a 12 VDC relay. Usually spend a lot of time going over my orders but not this time. realized I bought a 110 V instead. No wonder I could not get current to flow. Thought it was the timer but it checked out ok. Then noticed on the relay case it said 110vac.
Thank you for the excellent video! I wonder if you could tell me how to do the same thing with a 12v transformer plugged into a smart out instead of a battery. Then the smart outlet would turn on to open the door in the morning by closing the actuator, then ? How would it then close the door later that night? All that smart outlet would do would be to turn on and off. How would I wire it to then close the door by extending the actuator?
Fantastic video, extremely well presented. A question, would it be possible to substitute the timer switche with a photo cell so the door opens when light ans closes when dark 🤔
It should be, but be careful. You'd have to put some logic in there so that it doesn't flap back and forth between on and off during dawn or dusk... or if a tree shades it, etc.
@@willworkforliberty Thanks, hadn't thought about that, makes sense 🙏
If you have the right photocell modules you don't have to worry about that. Left a link in the next comment of a video I made. Well I guess youtube doesn't want you to see my video. It keeps deleting my comments with the link.
@Aztec Warrior Greetings, thanks very much indeed for your input. For reasons far beyond my technical "know how,"I'm unable to see your comments. That's not totally surprising, as my dear friend says "Flanagan, your about as technical as a monkey with an alarm clock". At the moment i have my lights & door running on two separate timers. Whilst i don't necessarily need to, id like to simplify the system a bit. Kind Regards Nic Flanagan
Aztec Warrior exactly what was the title of your video?
Thank you so much! The vacuum actuators on my 68 Charger went out, now converting to electric and this save a lot of cash!
One question: the headlight switch provides power to the headlights. I want to use the same switch to open the headlight doors. It is a positive signal. Can I run that 12v wire to terminal 4 and 7 thereby effectively replacing the switch which is now between four and seven?
Thanks for this great video!
Hello I have a 12v THC15a Baomain rail timer and want to wire it to DPDT relay but pin 5 is NO and pin 3&4 is NC how do I wire this up together? I am trying to have the same setup as this video. Just lost with the extra pin configuration. Thanks
Im planning to use it on incubator how could i add manual switch to stop it in the middle to load eggs
If the timer remains on, isn't it continuing to send power to the actuator? Though the actuator does stop, won't the continued flow of
Power over heat the actuator?
Thanks Heaps for you video . Question how would you add a manual override switch.
i wired this according to the instructions. but can the actuator stay in a open or closed position till the timer closes or opens it.
my settings seem to open it i run the timer for 1 minute then it closes. i don’t want the timer running in a open position drawing power. i was hoping after a 1 minute timer it would just stay open?
help?
You always have a pair of contacts open (off) and a pair closed (on). The coil energized (you call it on) results in some contacts being closed (on) and some contacts being closed (off). The coil de-energized (you call ‘off’) results in some contacts being open (off) and some contacts being closed (on). Differentiating between the coil, the normally open (NO) contacts and the normally closed (NC) contacts will greatly reduce confusion.
5.6 cotact
@@jollyscaria1922 Learn to write; then come back.
Would this wiring work the same with this XY-WJ01 Delay Relay Module Timer Delay Relay Module DC 6-30V 12V 24V 0.01s-9999min 50mA Digital Timer Delay
Thank you for the video! What if I don't have the switch- timer combo? Can I use a regular switch for that?
You could. The timer just turns on or off, which reverses the polarity.
Nice video. Would it be possible to add an external manual switch? Say on the outside of the chicken run, just in case you wanted to open or close
Hey, Ive attempted to wire my setup identical to what you have in the tutorial and i cant seem to get the relay to function. Any advice? Ive tried two DPDT relays to make sure i did not have a faulty relay. I also tried multiple timers... Question i do have though is if the timer needs to be a specific model? Mine looked slightly different from the way yours looked in the video. My timers do not have 5 paddle ports... Is that where ive gone wrong?
Thanks to whoever is willing to help!
I'm electrician interested ❤
I want to do something similar but I want it to open and then close immediately without pushing another button. I don't need the timer. I want to push one button and have it cycle open and closed. Can you tell me how to accomplish that?
Amazing video
I have a question With this set up The actuator keeps power all day Is I set the timer to open 5 am and close at 9pm?
Yes, there will be power available to the actuator at all times, but the key is once the actuator is fully extended or fully retracted there is an internal switch that disconnects power until the opposite voltage is applied to either extend it if it is fully retracted, or retract it if it is fully extended.
I made another video on how I installed this in my chicken coop, and explained that part here:
ua-cam.com/video/8NE4aQ7zncA/v-deo.html
Using two of these timers and a diode will make it so you don't have to keep power on all day long. You can do it with just the timers but you will have to do a series of off and ons. Best to just use the diode.
@@willworkforliberty You forgot to mention that when the timer and relay are on, they will be using power all day long. Not a lot of power but it's not nothing.
@@AztecWarrior69_69 do you have wire diagram or video on using 2 timers and diode?
@@tphan1205 Was the the video OK? Diagram easy to follow?
what actuator did you use?
how to conect 110 volt ac to 12v dc 110 volt off - on 12 volt dc ? for chicken incubator
8/9/23. If I use this exact setup to open a feeding box for 2 hours, then it closes (the same linear actual which has its own limit switch). Can I add a rain module, during the two hours the box is open? Therefore if it rains the box will close. Is that possible?
Great video!
I want to use this setup with a 12V battery but if I understand correctly the timer will send an "on" signal all day every day. Won't this drain the battery pretty quick?
Use a multi function timer.
I viewed your video hundred times and couldn't get it to work.
Until I looked at the end and noticed the timer made a click noise.
Bugger faulty timer.
Very frustrating.
Great video. Well presented. I learned a lot . Can you do one adding an infrared sensor to prevent the coop door from closing while the chicken is in the doorway and using photo cell instead of a timer?
I thought of that, but the door moves slowly enough that they haven't been caught in it. Because there's so much bedding in that area I'd be worried the sensor would be tripped when there aren't any chickens in the way, and fail to close when it should.
I also thought of the photo/solar cell. That's another idea, but again, I'd have to tune that to just the right voltage, and I'd be concerned that an overly cloudy day the door might close too early and lock chickens out.
@@willworkforliberty I 2nd @jimcasey8689 comment, great video i learned a-lot and was able to get my door working, a demonstration of how to add a sensor would be huge , those actuators could chop the chickens heads off easy, they r powerful :::edit(i dont want a photocell , just a sensor)
@@joeywolff5293 Strong but slow.
Powerful but slow...
Lots of irons in the fire right now, but I would like to make a video where I hook up an ESP to a sensor that would notify home assistant when the door is closed. (or if it is past a certain time an the door ISNT closed)...
@@joeywolff5293 You don't need a "Sensor" all you need is a pressure switch and a DPDT relay. If you just want it to stop at the point of obstruction. Or you can add a counter and use a TPDT relay, to try several times then stop at the point of obstruction.
@@joeywolff5293 ua-cam.com/video/IvmlhlFYAEM/v-deo.html
I noticed the green LED did not illuminate when you switched your timer on manually. I think you need to switch the polarity of terminals 7 and 8. So you need to have 8, 4, and 1 on positive and then wire 7, 3, and 2 to ground.
What you are suggesting is NOT necessary. The LED does not need to be on, unless you want it to be an indicator light. It will work as a Flyback (EMF) blocking diode in either case.
And there is NO ground. It is negative. You only use the term ground if you have chassis that is being used as a ground.
So i tried switching polarity as you described and it worked as you said i got green LED when manually on. I totally agree it does not matter at all, but was fun to try it and helped me learn the dynamics of an 8 pin relay. Thanks to everyone's input awesome, darn clever people on youtube.
My set up only extends it won't reverse. Any idea where I went wrong? I have watched and re wired 8 times.
Would it be reasonable to assume that I could run this through a transformer and be able to use 110V power supply?
Yup! This is exactly what I do in this video: ua-cam.com/video/8NE4aQ7zncA/v-deo.html
The AC to DC converter I used can be found here: amzn.to/3PIOaYC
This is very useful 👌
Do you have an idea how to achieve this mechanism, but with a wifi smart switch instead of the timer controller?
Yes. You could replace the timer with an ESP8266 and some custom code. I was actually headed down that path at first but switched to the timer because it was easier.
I might do a video on how to do this with an ESP8266.
Thank you for the very well done explanation! I wanted to wire this along with my Wyze Smart Plug but was stuck until I remembered I had a second 12v power supply in my pile. I wired one to be plugged in for constant power and the other to switch the relay coil on and off. I just plugged the power supply for the coil into the Wyze plug and it seems to be working fine as I intended, on my table anyway.
@@willworkforliberty You can just use a SONOFF 4ch or MHCOZY 4ch smart switch to do this. No need for external relay. I will try and link to a video I made that has a safety feature but you don't need it.
Did you figure it out?
Thanks Love this - BUT I dont know shit about electronics but can follow directions and you made it easy. Questions I have i have a door that malfunctions by not opening - I press the remote and it will work again and just randomly not open again in a few weeks (Not temp related ) - I wanted to use my existing actuator and also my existing IR door safety and the photo electric cell I have too. How should I wire those in - please be basic as I said earlier - i dont know this shit at all. LOL thanks this is a great help.
so ... on either directions, you constantly put a voltage to the actuator when it's completely retracted or extended?
Exactly. It has an internal limit switch that opens the circuit when it is full extended or retracted.
Good vid, but you gave too many options....which confuses watchers ...
Hi , i i where to use a motor and an string attached to the door so the motor would wind up the string lifting the door and then unwind it to lower the door where would i wire in the limit switches to stop it once it’s fully closed or opened?
Ah now that i think about it i would just wire the 2 of them onto either of the wires going to the motor wouldn’t I ?
or you could wire it this way , or connect the positive here ..............aaaagh - the diagram without the dotted lines works!
I’ve connected mine all up here and i have the problem that the motor is activated all the time no matter what mode the timer is in , on,auto , off the motor still spins
Motor still spins?
Are you using a linear actuator or a different device?
The linear actuator has a built in limit switch that will stop (disconnect) once it reaches reaches the limit.
The circuit shown here will always provide voltage in one direction or another.
Yeah I’m using a motor that I intend to hook up with limit switches, but I thought that when the timer was in the off position it wouldn’t be supplying power to the component, so if it’s always supplying power than the the times that you set just trigger it to change the polarity?
@@Alan-hd9ov Exactly.
The switch (in this case a timer) just switches polarity.
The linear actuator has a built in limit switch that stops the internal motor at the limits of extension and retraction.
Perfect thank you but see when the timer has is displaying the little off symbol on the screen when you cycle through the modes using the “ manual “ button should it still be supplying power to the component or have i crossed a wire somewhere by accident
I'm wanting to wire this relay to a smart relay called athom. The smart relay has an L-Out, L-in, N-in, N-Out, S1 & S2. Are you able to help me understand which wires should go in each slot?
This video is extremely helpful by the way.
I think what I'm not understanding is you have a Positive and Negative connected as Input and a Positive and Neutral connected as Output - but I have a Live and Neutral Input and a Live and Neutral Output.
@@user-yl5ix6xp4t You are way off in using this switch. That switch is for controlling AC voltage in a 3 way situation. They are not meant for this sort of thing. Use a SONOFF or MHCOZY, 4ch smart switch instead.
The DPDT relay is not available on Amazon at this time. Any other suggestions? Also wanting to use a Transformer as a power supply, will it work with tis?
[removed bad link]
As far as using a DC power supply, that is exactly what I did in this video: ua-cam.com/video/8NE4aQ7zncA/v-deo.html
@@willworkforliberty This link not working either.
Links updated in the description. Both working as of this writing.
How to make a short story long
that was the most complicated description for a simple circuit.
Total noob here: How could I make this work with a battery setting?
Don’t you need a diode?
Too technical
Some people like the technical. I put chapters in so you can skip to the final wiring at the 11:16 mark. Or just use the diagram I linked in the description.