For the folks wondering about the coupling used in the video, they are made by Baker and are called a pitless connector. They are available in different sizes with the 6" part number of 66apc. They are not allowed by code in all states, but most do allow them to be used provided that the coupling itself is below the frost line in order to prevent separation by frost heaves. They work well, but are not as good as welding. If you are attempting a diy repair this may or may not be what you are looking for as they are pretty expensive. The coupling is most likely very comparable to just hiring a welder in your area to weld on a half thread steal coupling for you. There are really no advantages to using one of these unless you absolutely cannot get a half thread coupling welded in place for whatever reason, or a welder in your area is prohibitively expensive. A mobile welder in my area is $120/hour, and it's a 1 hour job. Add the cost of a half thread coupling and it's still under $200. The 66apc baker coupling is about $300 and most definitely not as reliable as welding. I should also note that some Baker slip joint couplings will reduce the inner diameter of the pipe as well which may cause issues down the road when trying to pull the pump motor. If you decide that the Baker coupling is for you, I'd suggest you verify this before installing or you'll be digging again 😂. When properly installed, the Baker coupling is considered sanitary and should be very reliable for a long time. I would venture to say that the reason you don't see more of them is mostly cost, as most states do allow the use of them.
@@Mental_Patient nothing to say that you can't, but you can buy the threaded well pipe extension with the hole cut out for the pitless adapter so it's ready to be installed. Welding an extension in place is a perfectly viable option as well if you don't mind cutting the hole for the pitless adapter in the pipe. Many professionals will do just that. On a side note, some folks opt to use the slip adapter and use a PVC extension. This option is limited to a slip style coupling but can save some money by using PVC in place of steel.
I just bought a property and the well cap is at least a foot under ground level. The well was drilled in the late 50s. I will need to have it raised to meet current codes. Do you have any idea what this may cost? I'm in rural, western Pa.
Nice video, great job, but I would highly suggest using a lanyard on all my tools just in case one falls down the well and what is "bulid up"? Did you mean build up?
I just discovered my well cap and pipe have corroded apart and need repaired. This video was very informative to what I need to do to make my repairs. Any idea of the cost of materials today?
What I want to know is where is the water connection, and how can you pull the pump up if it needs to be replaced. All I see here is the well cap and the electric connection but not the water.
Great video so much help. Could you possibly sell me the extension and the first piece to put the extension into? If not could you direct me to someone who can? thank you.
I am having this done to my well casing in a few weeks. You all have done a great job of teaching this process.
For the folks wondering about the coupling used in the video, they are made by Baker and are called a pitless connector. They are available in different sizes with the 6" part number of 66apc. They are not allowed by code in all states, but most do allow them to be used provided that the coupling itself is below the frost line in order to prevent separation by frost heaves. They work well, but are not as good as welding. If you are attempting a diy repair this may or may not be what you are looking for as they are pretty expensive. The coupling is most likely very comparable to just hiring a welder in your area to weld on a half thread steal coupling for you. There are really no advantages to using one of these unless you absolutely cannot get a half thread coupling welded in place for whatever reason, or a welder in your area is prohibitively expensive. A mobile welder in my area is $120/hour, and it's a 1 hour job. Add the cost of a half thread coupling and it's still under $200. The 66apc baker coupling is about $300 and most definitely not as reliable as welding. I should also note that some Baker slip joint couplings will reduce the inner diameter of the pipe as well which may cause issues down the road when trying to pull the pump motor. If you decide that the Baker coupling is for you, I'd suggest you verify this before installing or you'll be digging again 😂. When properly installed, the Baker coupling is considered sanitary and should be very reliable for a long time. I would venture to say that the reason you don't see more of them is mostly cost, as most states do allow the use of them.
Why don't they just weld, why the threading of the new extension?
@@Mental_Patient nothing to say that you can't, but you can buy the threaded well pipe extension with the hole cut out for the pitless adapter so it's ready to be installed. Welding an extension in place is a perfectly viable option as well if you don't mind cutting the hole for the pitless adapter in the pipe. Many professionals will do just that. On a side note, some folks opt to use the slip adapter and use a PVC extension. This option is limited to a slip style coupling but can save some money by using PVC in place of steel.
@@LtDan-ni5rw OK, thanks. I've seen so many videos, and they all seem to use these couplers, wondered why.
Great video. You gave me some very helpful insights.
Very informative video excellent workmanship guys thank you!!
Great video. Simple to follow.
I just bought a property and the well cap is at least a foot under ground level. The well was drilled in the late 50s. I will need to have it raised to meet current codes.
Do you have any idea what this may cost? I'm in rural, western Pa.
There was no mention of it, but I assume the pitless adapter is in the casing below this?
Nice video, great job, but I would highly suggest using a lanyard on all my tools just in case one falls down the well and what is "bulid up"? Did you mean build up?
I just discovered my well cap and pipe have corroded apart and need repaired. This video was very informative to what I need to do to make my repairs. Any idea of the cost of materials today?
S thx, I’m going to do this to my well
Nice video, John this would work for you.
I didn't see you remove the pump, only cut and add the wire. Is in not necessary to remove the pump, as long as it is in good working condition?
How about the vent? Where is it?
Could you kindly post the extension union brand and where to buy? Thanks!
Can you tell me who manufactures the extension coupling? I would like to order one from my local plumbing supply outfit. Thanks
What I want to know is where is the water connection, and how can you pull the pump up if it needs to be replaced. All I see here is the well cap and the electric connection but not the water.
does anyone know where i can get this extension union shown in this video. my well pipe has the threads crushed so i need a union like this.
Is this water drinkable after that powder?
Can u give me the part no. For the cover and dresser coupling I live in mich and need to do the same thing
I'm on the east coast of Canada. Is there a Canadian supplier for this pitless connector?
The exstion union part no. Or who makes it
Great video so much help. Could you possibly sell me the extension and the first piece to put the extension into? If not could you direct me to someone who can? thank you.
I have a 4 inch well casing, I would like to replace my old cap with a new one, where can I buy this, and what size do I need? Thank You.
that is one expensive coupler