there are 2 types of adapters, one like shown and one that hangs from a T at the top of the casing and uses a long tool to tighten/loosen the saddle that aligns with the hole in the casing down at 4 or 5 foot. have a great day
Thank you so much for the great explanation and cutout view Great picture (with cutout mock up ) and great verbal explanation as well, concise, and excellently presented.
Thanks for the video! I watched your video on the water pressure tank the other day. I successfully re-charge mine using a bicycle pump. An Air compressor would definitely have been easier. Regarding the pitless adapters… Where does one find the tool for extracting it? What size threads are those in the top?
Good question. The depth of your piping in the well will determine what tool is used to pull it, anything over 100' will likely require a hoist of some kind. The size of the threads is most commonly 1" or 1.25".
I'm sorry for any work you have to do outside. I would die if I had to run everything 13' underground. We have so many outside water lines for our business, any repairs (like I'm doing right today and tomorrow) would be crazy.
Great Video ! I have a question, after 40 years my water system has developed an air leak. It is not bleeding air from inside the house; the check valve is working at the pressure tank, and it's a solid pipe line to the well casing. I say bleeding air....what is happening is the water is falling back into the well when the pump stops So, could the rubber gasket be bad on the pitless adapter ?
Depending on the depth of the well, you will also have check valves on the drop pipe, directly above the pump and one built into the top of the pump. If this a shallow well set, you may only have the one in the top of the pump and if that valve has failed, you will lose water back down to the static water level. If that is only 20 feet above the pump and the hole is 70 feet, you are going to loose water from the check valve up top all the way to the the check valve that has failed. Best thing to do is to have a professional pull it and replace the check valve that has gone bad.
Your videos have been incredibly helpful man. Thanks! How do you decide how deep to put the pitless? I keep finding different answers. My frost depth is 3.5'. It seems like the casing is kind of an air channel to the surface that cold air might go pretty far down.
Thanks for the kind words! The pitless adapter should be installed below the frost line and on the side of well casing where the supply line will run from well. As long as the well is capped/sealed at the top there shouldn't be any freezing issues.
I want to install a Bison Pump deep well hand pump alongside my submersible pump. Unfortunately, my pitless adapter is really large. It takes up 4" of the 6" inner diameter of my well casing. I'd like to replace my pitless adapter with something that is smaller, so that I have more room inside of my well casing to fit the hand pump. Anyways, my question is if I dig down and attempt to replace the pitless adapter with one that is smaller, will it still fit in the hole that is in the side of the casing? Or will the casing hole be too big for a smaller pitless adapter?
OMG..Can you please help me ? Advice ?? I'm soooooo dam pissed off. I just brought home the pointless adapter. My husband and his " plumber cousin '!!! Pulled it out of the 250ft well and" plumber cousin " just dropped the pointless adapter into the well..... Help
Call a professional. the first thing people do is loosen bolts on the well seal and that is the first mistake. The nuts on the bottom of those bolts fall into the well and jam the pump when you are trying to pull. A professional will save you time, Money and frustration if you just let them do it from the start,
He said with a torch or carbide hole saw. Both of which aren't in your common home tool kit. A torch would be oxy acetylene, or a plasma cutter. Carbide hole saws are a little pricey, I just checked and its about $20 just for the saw and that is if you already have the mandrel.
My pitless adapter has a blind 1 inch hole on the top side. The handle is a long length of 1 inch steel pipe with a tee and short pipe nipples forming handles. Does that make sense? You reach down the well, looking with a flashlight, and screw the homemade tool into the pitless adapter, then pull up the pump. The handles prevents you from accidently dropping everything down the well.
they are a "one size fits all" they are not made specific to the size of the casing. that is a non determining factor in pitless setups. one that fits a 4" casing can and will fit a 6" casing.
If I drill through the steel casing, will the fine steel shavings that will inevitably fall into the water mess with my new pump? The dummies that put my well in just brought the water out the top of the well, then to a pressure tank beside the well head, then dig a ditch and ran pvc pipe 10 inches underground to my house. Then they built an ugly pump house around it all.
Nothing wrong with that: I have the same thing on one of my wells, with a nice looking pumphouse enclosing everything. Although we can hit minus 40C I'm very happy with this setup.
Out the stop is best,if you have to pull said pump all you do if propery done is shut off and unhook power uncouple a union and pull pump,pitless you basicly hav no choice but to make a huge mess.
God ..I'm literally crying right now. 60$ just for the pitiless adapter...my neighbor said you can't retrieve it !!! Now my Moron Husband and his " Fake Ass Plumber Cousin " going to get another one..... ridiculous....!!!
how would that be better than a pitless adapter? a ball valve cannot dis connect and re connect in the event that the pump needs to be pulled, and thats not a question of if it will happen, its when. last time i looked at ball valves they do not disconnect at any point of the valve, let alone withstand 6000 psi lol.
@@privacyatty Basicly a shed big enough to house the pressure tank filter if need and still have room to do servicing and cleaning. The floor should be concrete ,insulation in the walls to regulate temeprature.
If you don't have a pitless adapter, you need to prevent water freezing up to the surface, and any where pipes are run. This will vary by your local climate, so for me, I would probably need to have some sort of heater going. This would include your well head because you will have water running there. Don't forget, water freezes at 0C, 32F, 273K and the higher pressures in the system don't change that enough to really matter. It won't be exact for your water (its not pure water) but its close enough.
Finally, I know how a pitless adapter works
there are 2 types of adapters, one like shown and one that hangs from a T at the top of the casing and uses a long tool to tighten/loosen the saddle that aligns with the hole in the casing down at 4 or 5 foot.
have a great day
Thank you so much for the great explanation and cutout view Great picture (with cutout mock up ) and great verbal explanation as well, concise, and excellently presented.
Glad to help! Thanks for watching!
All right, that clears it up for me. Thank you for that.
This is a very informative video. Thank you for sharing this. It's a must watch for homeowners that want to save money!!!
Glad it was helpful!
I took my pitless apart. Should I replace the gasket? Should I lube it up? How do I get the correct gasket?
Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks
Very good vidio for me -helps a lot -The cutout says it all .
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks for the video! I watched your video on the water pressure tank the other day. I successfully re-charge mine using a bicycle pump. An Air compressor would definitely have been easier.
Regarding the pitless adapters… Where does one find the tool for extracting it? What size threads are those in the top?
Good question. The depth of your piping in the well will determine what tool is used to pull it, anything over 100' will likely require a hoist of some kind. The size of the threads is most commonly 1" or 1.25".
4-5' deep? That's cute. My pitless is 13' down in Alaska. Great video though:)
That sucks dude. Beautiful though for a week or so
I'm sorry for any work you have to do outside. I would die if I had to run everything 13' underground. We have so many outside water lines for our business, any repairs (like I'm doing right today and tomorrow) would be crazy.
well that's nothing I had to put my pitless at 12 inches here in the TX panhandle. Probably could have been 2 inches. hahaha
Great Video !
I have a question, after 40 years my water system has developed an air leak. It is not bleeding air from inside the house; the check valve is working at the pressure tank, and it's a solid pipe line to the well casing. I say bleeding air....what is happening is the water is falling back into the well when the pump stops
So, could the rubber gasket be bad on the pitless adapter ?
Depending on the depth of the well, you will also have check valves on the drop pipe, directly above the pump and one built into the top of the pump. If this a shallow well set, you may only have the one in the top of the pump and if that valve has failed, you will lose water back down to the static water level. If that is only 20 feet above the pump and the hole is 70 feet, you are going to loose water from the check valve up top all the way to the the check valve that has failed. Best thing to do is to have a professional pull it and replace the check valve that has gone bad.
I just installed one on a new build yesterday
Nice!
Thanks Guy, that will help me
Your videos have been incredibly helpful man. Thanks! How do you decide how deep to put the pitless? I keep finding different answers. My frost depth is 3.5'. It seems like the casing is kind of an air channel to the surface that cold air might go pretty far down.
Thanks for the kind words! The pitless adapter should be installed below the frost line and on the side of well casing where the supply line will run from well. As long as the well is capped/sealed at the top there shouldn't be any freezing issues.
@@RCworstwater Thanks for the reply!
We generally dig a 2x2 hole in the side of the casing at least 18 to 20inches deep
Are the pitiless adapters typically 1 inch for the tool to screw into?
Either 1", 1.25", or sometimes 2"
Perfect video. Thank you.!
Glad it was helpful!
I want to install a Bison Pump deep well hand pump alongside my submersible pump. Unfortunately, my pitless adapter is really large. It takes up 4" of the 6" inner diameter of my well casing. I'd like to replace my pitless adapter with something that is smaller, so that I have more room inside of my well casing to fit the hand pump. Anyways, my question is if I dig down and attempt to replace the pitless adapter with one that is smaller, will it still fit in the hole that is in the side of the casing? Or will the casing hole be too big for a smaller pitless adapter?
OMG..Can you please help me ? Advice ?? I'm soooooo dam pissed off. I just brought home the pointless adapter. My husband and his " plumber cousin '!!! Pulled it out of the 250ft well and" plumber cousin " just dropped the pointless adapter into the well..... Help
You'll likely just have to buy another. Not sure how you would fish that out...
I have artsian well that I would like to let flow. Will this leak around the edges of the pitless adapter? can it withstand 3 psi onoutside
How do you pull the pump and motor if it ever goes out??
Call a professional. the first thing people do is loosen bolts on the well seal and that is the first mistake. The nuts on the bottom of those bolts fall into the well and jam the pump when you are trying to pull. A professional will save you time, Money and frustration if you just let them do it from the start,
Can you place two pitless adapters on well casing for 2 pipe system?
That's not typical, but if your well casing is large enough I don't see an issue with it.
I wish he would have went a little further on how to drill into steel well casing, what kind of drill and drill bit works best
He said with a torch or carbide hole saw. Both of which aren't in your common home tool kit. A torch would be oxy acetylene, or a plasma cutter. Carbide hole saws are a little pricey, I just checked and its about $20 just for the saw and that is if you already have the mandrel.
Pitiless bar is steel
I have a steel plate about 9' down the casing it's about 8"above the pitiless fitting. Is there a special tool to get it out.
Pull the pump and pray to God it doesn't fall down
What size is the handle that goes into the pitiless adapter I need to make one. ?
My pitless adapter has a blind 1 inch hole on the top side. The handle is a long length of 1 inch steel pipe with a tee and short pipe nipples forming handles. Does that make sense? You reach down the well, looking with a flashlight, and screw the homemade tool into the pitless adapter, then pull up the pump. The handles prevents you from accidently dropping everything down the well.
is there a pitless adapter made for a 4" pvc well casing
they are a "one size fits all" they are not made specific to the size of the casing. that is a non determining factor in pitless setups. one that fits a 4" casing can and will fit a 6" casing.
hey, I recently had a question on an exam and though I would get you thoughts?? a deep well pump at 156ft feet should be supported by??
Nylon rope
If I drill through the steel casing, will the fine steel shavings that will inevitably fall into the water mess with my new pump? The dummies that put my well in just brought the water out the top of the well, then to a pressure tank beside the well head, then dig a ditch and ran pvc pipe 10 inches underground to my house. Then they built an ugly pump house around it all.
Nothing wrong with that: I have the same thing on one of my wells, with a nice looking pumphouse enclosing everything. Although we can hit minus 40C I'm very happy with this setup.
Out the stop is best,if you have to pull said pump all you do if propery done is shut off and unhook power uncouple a union and pull pump,pitless you basicly hav no choice but to make a huge mess.
@@paulmaxwell8851 Is your well house heated? If not, how does it not freeze with the water coming out of the top?
God ..I'm literally crying right now. 60$ just for the pitiless adapter...my neighbor said you can't retrieve it !!! Now my Moron Husband and his " Fake Ass Plumber Cousin " going to get another one..... ridiculous....!!!
WHY WHY WHY the background music?!21#@%^#%$
Through all that you did not demonstrate how it works
He looks dead on James Franco. That's amazing I seriously thought he was the actor.
Better solution would be to use a rubber ball valve
how would that be better than a pitless adapter? a ball valve cannot dis connect and re connect in the event that the pump needs to be pulled, and thats not a question of if it will happen, its when. last time i looked at ball valves they do not disconnect at any point of the valve, let alone withstand 6000 psi lol.
Absolutely worthless device! Put a proper well building in or use a insulated valut!
Any links to what you'd call a proper well building? I might make one.
@@privacyatty Basicly a shed big enough to house the pressure tank filter if need and still have room to do servicing and cleaning. The floor should be concrete ,insulation in the walls to regulate temeprature.
@@scottfoster2487 should I put it over well head. I'm not that keen on a pitiless adapter where I got another well drilled. It's a really wet area.
If you don't have a pitless adapter, you need to prevent water freezing up to the surface, and any where pipes are run. This will vary by your local climate, so for me, I would probably need to have some sort of heater going. This would include your well head because you will have water running there. Don't forget, water freezes at 0C, 32F, 273K and the higher pressures in the system don't change that enough to really matter. It won't be exact for your water (its not pure water) but its close enough.
@@snoopdogie187 Yeah I don't see how a well house could work unless it's heated or in a somewhat mild climate.