I love that you value a customer getting a long service life from their equipment over a “replacement pump” job 6-8yrs down the track. This is how great businesses are built and maintained. 👍
I stopped in my tracks when you said at 0:22 that "you just need a little common sense". I don't think there's much of that around here! Seriously, though, what usually fails first: the pump or the motor? In my limited experience, it's the motor. I've pulled plenty of failed units that had pumps in perfect condition. In fact, I replaced the motor on a 1.5 hp Grundfos pump and reinstalled it, as the pump looked like brand new. It was sixteen years old.
When I bought my house, it was from a foreclosure.. no idea about the age of the well pump but looking at it, it's probably original and the house was built in 1960. The tank is about seven foot tall. Today I get to either swap out the switch or clean out the nipple below the switch - or ideally, flip the contacts to get a bug or something out.
The cold-water inflow from the bottom of the well should be at an overall higher rate than the On-Off pumping cycle of residential submersible pumps with a pressure tank. As a result, the submersible pump should be pulling water from the bottom and top of the well and have OFF periods as new water is arriving from the bottom. On older residential wells that may no longer be the case, but that situation will lead to pump and well problems regardless. Your PVC sleeve forces a thin film of water to pass around circumference of the motor before enters the pump. As a result, water between PVC (insulator) and motor SS surface (hot) is heating more quickly. Without a sleeve, water warmed by the motor will lift and mix, transferring heat to surrounding water at the same time. As already mentioned, new cold water from bottom also cools submersible pump motor while working and when motor stops. Motor technology for submersible pumps does not have very high efficiency so coils generate a lot of heat and the SS sleeve housing is a poor thermal conductor. Pump's stator coils are also surrounded in epoxy and there is no place for heat to go internally with rotor there also getting hot. Consequently, well pumps need to have time OFF to recover from destructive nature of accumulated heat. When pumos are OFF, your PVC sleeve is creating problems by preventing a quick heat transfer from replanishing water from bellow. Pressure tanks and pressure switches help with maintaining supply of water while pumps are OFF and cooling periods by the design of that pump-pressure tank system. The other problem with your PVC sleeve is that it is not restrained at the bottom to stay in a concentric position with a circumference of the pump. Water pulled by the pump from bottom of your PVC sleeve will take path of lower friction (lower resistance) consequently shifting your sleeve to one side of the motor. In other words, water will not go on its own in perfectly balanced and equal amounts around the motor with maximum surface friction and with that motor cooling. As a result, you are likely to cool one side of the motor more with that PVC sleev, which is not good for the motor. This PVC sleeve is also forcing deeper water pull (about 2 feet based on your comments), so it increases dynamic head for the pump and with that small increase in power usage and heating of the motor. More work for the motor comes also from the sleeve and SS housing of motor creating friction with a film of water passing in between and around the sharp edge at the bottom of the motor. In pump dynamic head calculations this all adds to total head and with that heat and power use of the submersible pump. There could be some benefit in reducing sediment intake from newer granite drilled wells. On my 600 feet deep 25 years old granite drilled well I clearly have a lot of rock surface for sediment. I probably had some sediment in earlier years, but my now 21-year-old pump is still pumping 5 GPM without any PVC sleeve like yours, or sediment in the filter. I understand that every well and pump instalation is unique. Perhaps, having two parallel installations monitored for extended period of times would allow us to best compare power usage and life expectancy with and without such PVC sleeve. My other concern is about how such PVC sleeve installation affects the manufacturer’s warranty. Do you have any experience with that?
You could solve the issue by not fully sealing the top of the sleave so convection currents can circulate even when the pump is off. Not too big of a hole mind you or it defeats the purpose, but a cylinder that long is going to work quite well at creating natural convection currents, just like how a chimney creates a vacuum at the bottom.
Keep up the good work. I'm watching video after video of yours because I have to fix my daughter's well. The poor kids don't have water so I'm head upstate tomorrow to see what I can do. I love the idea of using a sleeve like that to extend the life of the pump. I would like to do that for them if I have to replace the pump itself. The wires around her capacitor and hard start are toast so I figure that's not good. Getting new capacitor and hard start, also replacing wires. Have only seen pictures of her situation.
Looks like the thing to do. I had a 4” drain pipe on my rack so I’m giving it a try. Time will tell. Thanks for all the info you share. I have another well that needs a pump, won’t start and pulling 17 amps on one leg. That pump is 12 years old and has 1” PVC. Not as easy to pull as poly pipe.
Absolutely would like one of these pump sleeves! Will be pulling my only 3.5 yr old Franklin pump next month (sad face) when the weather warms more (Interior Alaska). Pretty sure the check valve at well pump failed since water is backing down the well pipe and causes air to enter and is making the pipes sputter every time the pump cycles after pressure drops down (pump switch set at 30-50 with expansion tank at 28psi). There's another check valve just before the expansion tank that probably directly contributed to the suspected failure with the negative pressure and the water hammer slamming down on the pump check valve. I will remove the check valve at the tank in favor of a cycle stop valve (CSV) or just keep it all simple like your videos suggested and only the check valve at pump. 180' well with water at 146' and pump is supposedly sitting at 160' or slightly lower (all according to the builder who had the well drilled and pump installed). When the symptoms first started with the surge of water bringing the air up there was a large amount of sediment being brought up too, so I can imagine the pump had to fight through that. May buy a Grundfos pump and redo the poly pipe and wiring since I'll have everything out. Watched most of your other videos, so thank you for the great content since that gave the motivation to attempt this DIY!
Update on my own comment: Well is 185' deep with water at 160' (probably 140-150' now that the melt finally happened in interior Alaska). Pump was at 180'. Turns out it wasn't a Franklin pump, but a "Lowe's special" $499 (cheaper elsewhere too) "Utilitech Pro" pump. Turns out the original installer chose not to add an extra 1 1/4 brass check valve on the top of the pump. Just the flimsy plastic internal check valve that failed, allowing water to back down the 160 psi poly pipe and causing air in the PEX tubing once the expansion tank emptied and it took the extra 15-30 seconds for water to make its way back up the long poly pipe. Everything else appeared well done. Could be better here and there, but overall a good install with proper splicing, taping, a torque arrestor, and even the plastic spacers throughout the length of pipe with the nylon rope on one side and the wiring on the other. Why they cheaped out on $50 for the extra check valve I don't know. Either way now that I've done it, the water works as it should with no air in pipes. Of course I still want one of those sleeves, because the average lifespan (based on the many negative reviews on Lowe's and elsewhere) is 3-5 years and it's currently 3 years old. The home builder claims he has the same pump in houses nearby with 7 years going, but that has to be borrowed time. I will take the risk and plan ahead for a next summer replacement with a Grundfos pump and would love one of the sleeves to put the finishing touch on it.
I’d be interested to see a test on the temperature with a sleeve vs without a sleeve. You would probably need a thermocouple to get a temperature reading while the pump is running in the well.
Great info. All that being said, would it be a great value added item to make standard on all well installs not in 4” casing/liners? Sounds like a great “this is why our wells are better” type of thing.
Have you ever had to pull a well where the pump fell off the end of a pvc pipe. My well did (or so I was told that by the well company I had hired) the well was drilled at 365 and about half way out of the hole it hung so that put the pressure to it with there puller truck and something gave and they was able to finish pulling the pipe out of the well with just the pump bushing on the end of the pipe and of course the wire and after that had to have a new well drilled at 400 feet
I'd probably use a hole saw and cut a hole the size of the pump in an end cap then glue that to a pvc pipe, slide it almost to the top and silicone it in place. I wouldn't expect the electrical tape to last for too long down the hole.
I can't seem to find the info online very easily and every time I ask Google or UA-cam this video pops up. I am installing a half horse submersible well pump inside of a cistern to help with making my parents cottage a little easier for them too. Start up and shut down for the winter. And when I unpacked it it has an 1" 1/2 outlet on the top. I'm assuming I can reduce it down to 1 in to make it a little easier to install in the bottom of the concrete system underground, but I don't know if that's going to cause too much restriction for the 12 ft of lift it needs to do to get up to the pressure tank. I know it is a little bit oversized for what it is but it was a smallest pump I could find and I just figured I'd get the biggest pressure tank I can get if it cycles a little bit too fast on the pressure tank I already have. Basically my question is can reduce the pump down to 1 in and not have any major issues with the pump and it over pressuring the pressure switch which I'm planning using a low pressure cut off switch and a float switch in the tank to cut off if it ever gets too low
We call it a shraud it also cools the motor as well by pulling water past the motor. there a ceramic baring on bottom of Motor the little hole on the bottom lets water in but there also rubber liner that keeps the water from entering the inside of it help cool the ceramic a interesting design if you were to cut it open. The sell a fancy version of that sleav that make a vortex only offered by pump supplyer. I for got what the date code was but I pull a sub that still working pulled on request of new home owner and it was all made from brass the out side and in side and was told they did that in the 60s jacuzzi pumps I have no idea how it could last that long and some of the control box look like it was make from card board really probably a wood of some type. It was cool to look at. The old house owner said the well was drilled in the late 50 . 👍👌✌️💦
I found your channel and man I wish you were located near me!!!! I had a chaffed wire on a well pump, found it when the beaker kept tripping, got a new pump the original was 21 years old so Might as well replace the wire and pump since it had to be pulled anyway! Well new the problem, went to put the new pump and wire down the well (250 foot well) and it only went in 1/2 way and it won’t go any further! Some obstruction about 100-125 foot down!!! There was some mud on the roll pipe when we pulled up the original pump so I’m praying it wasn’t a partial or total collapse of the well!!! What would you suggest I do next? When the new pump hits the obstruction you can hear a thud clearly! I tried LIGHTLY bobbing the pump up and down but it clearly isn’t going down any further in that well, something is blocking it! Thinking a partial collapse or a rock was laying against the pipe as we pulled it past the rock fell over and is lodged in the well casing????
I have a question sir. I have a new well that is about one month old. I have been running it one hour on, three hours off to clear the well. The water is "dirty" when I run the pump with the spigot on the pressure wide open. When I run at half open or less, the water is clear... any ideas? Thx in advance. Love your videos
I just installed my Franklin one horse 10 gallon per minute pump yesterday plan to hook up the tank today and saw this video on putting in the pump sleeve to direct the water flow over the motor. the pump is at 200 feet, well depth 260 feet, static water line is it 25 feet. Should I pull that pump back out and put one of the sleeves on there? I’m in a granite, limestone and shell area of north east Alabama not far south of Chattanooga.
Hi, Nice video, Not sure why you said 4" pump in 6" casing people will not do it. I have 4" Pump in 6"casing and would like to install sleeve. Any suggestions?
Great, informative videos. I have a new well 955’ deep and some questions. I see you have stacks of 300’ x 1” poly. What do you use to butt connect them… I’ll need 3 rolls to reach the bottom of my new well. Any other recommendations would be great. Thanks in advance… CaptWingnut
Don't use poly at that depth my opinion think about pulling it and what is your well producing gpm and the static water level plus the diameter ? You can get poly in bigger length rolls. You need size your pump system for depth ,friction ,head pressure etc etc.
We’re in the Philippines and have a 2” well casing. Is there a submersible pump available that we can get? Fantastic channel, keep up the great work! Thanks 😊
Nice video and tips! Please what is the clearance between the pump and the pump sleeve? Must it be tight fit? Will it not starve the pump of water flow at some point? Just curious!
My well is driving me crazy. 1hp vertical jet pump. 100ft well. The original pump was cycling on and off every few minutes. I was told the leathers were bad so I pulled the pump and changed the leathers and the assembly at the bottom of the well. It's a 1" pipe inside of a 2" . Now with good leathers , bottom assembly & a new pump. It is blowing the flange seal . It fills the 2" pipe to the top and blows the seal. Can u help me under stand what I'm doing wrong thx
I have no clue, sorry. Not familiar with 2" wells. But sounds like you have the pressure side going to the well, not the suction side. Hard to say if im not on site to look at the entire system
Hey bud, I have a question. How do you feel about a union type tank tee compared to a non union tee? I understand the less unions there are the less chances for leaks, but I go through pressure tanks regularly up here with the 5.7ph water I have. I thought the tank replacement would be easier with the union tee since I won't have to mess with the poly pipe or the other connections when replacing the tank which isn't gonna be long, current tank is 11 years old, disintegrating slowly on the bottom connection and leaking from the tee.. I have an Amtrol WX-203 tank, they seem to last the longest around here. What brand of tank tees do you recommend? Stainless or brass? What brand of pressure tank is your favorite considering my water is battery acid? Thanks in advance, I very much appreciate your advice and quick responses. 😁
I like the union type Tees. We just don't use them. But they make alot of sense, they just aren't cheaper if bought in bulk. Brass is less likely to leak & SS will probably last forever. I'd say go for it, either is fine. Brass is easier to work with imo.
I can design you one. You'll need to buy a 8" well seal somewhere else though. Hwdracing@gmail.com we can communicate there. I'll call you, it'll be easier to make a list of items & help me to understand your water usage needs
I love that you value a customer getting a long service life from their equipment over a “replacement pump” job 6-8yrs down the track. This is how great businesses are built and maintained. 👍
I see you've hit 100k now. Congrats! nice work!
My well guy put that on my pump 30 years ago and never had a problem.
I stopped in my tracks when you said at 0:22 that "you just need a little common sense". I don't think there's much of that around here! Seriously, though, what usually fails first: the pump or the motor? In my limited experience, it's the motor. I've pulled plenty of failed units that had pumps in perfect condition. In fact, I replaced the motor on a 1.5 hp Grundfos pump and reinstalled it, as the pump looked like brand new. It was sixteen years old.
Nice clean, well lit and organized shop. Says a lot about the owner. Thanks for the videos!!
When I bought my house, it was from a foreclosure.. no idea about the age of the well pump but looking at it, it's probably original and the house was built in 1960. The tank is about seven foot tall. Today I get to either swap out the switch or clean out the nipple below the switch - or ideally, flip the contacts to get a bug or something out.
Thanks Phil. That’s a great idea. I will be using this little trick up here in Canada 🇨🇦
The cold-water inflow from the bottom of the well should be at an overall higher rate than the On-Off pumping cycle of residential submersible pumps with a pressure tank. As a result, the submersible pump should be pulling water from the bottom and top of the well and have OFF periods as new water is arriving from the bottom. On older residential wells that may no longer be the case, but that situation will lead to pump and well problems regardless.
Your PVC sleeve forces a thin film of water to pass around circumference of the motor before enters the pump. As a result, water between PVC (insulator) and motor SS surface (hot) is heating more quickly. Without a sleeve, water warmed by the motor will lift and mix, transferring heat to surrounding water at the same time. As already mentioned, new cold water from bottom also cools submersible pump motor while working and when motor stops. Motor technology for submersible pumps does not have very high efficiency so coils generate a lot of heat and the SS sleeve housing is a poor thermal conductor. Pump's stator coils are also surrounded in epoxy and there is no place for heat to go internally with rotor there also getting hot. Consequently, well pumps need to have time OFF to recover from destructive nature of accumulated heat. When pumos are OFF, your PVC sleeve is creating problems by preventing a quick heat transfer from replanishing water from bellow. Pressure tanks and pressure switches help with maintaining supply of water while pumps are OFF and cooling periods by the design of that pump-pressure tank system. The other problem with your PVC sleeve is that it is not restrained at the bottom to stay in a concentric position with a circumference of the pump. Water pulled by the pump from bottom of your PVC sleeve will take path of lower friction (lower resistance) consequently shifting your sleeve to one side of the motor. In other words, water will not go on its own in perfectly balanced and equal amounts around the motor with maximum surface friction and with that motor cooling. As a result, you are likely to cool one side of the motor more with that PVC sleev, which is not good for the motor. This PVC sleeve is also forcing deeper water pull (about 2 feet based on your comments), so it increases dynamic head for the pump and with that small increase in power usage and heating of the motor. More work for the motor comes also from the sleeve and SS housing of motor creating friction with a film of water passing in between and around the sharp edge at the bottom of the motor. In pump dynamic head calculations this all adds to total head and with that heat and power use of the submersible pump.
There could be some benefit in reducing sediment intake from newer granite drilled wells. On my 600 feet deep 25 years old granite drilled well I clearly have a lot of rock surface for sediment. I probably had some sediment in earlier years, but my now 21-year-old pump is still pumping 5 GPM without any PVC sleeve like yours, or sediment in the filter. I understand that every well and pump instalation is unique. Perhaps, having two parallel installations monitored for extended period of times would allow us to best compare power usage and life expectancy with and without such PVC sleeve.
My other concern is about how such PVC sleeve installation affects the manufacturer’s warranty. Do you have any experience with that?
Those pump sleeves (stainless) are sold by pump manufacturers , naming them cooling sleeves ( Kühlmantel).
You could solve the issue by not fully sealing the top of the sleave so convection currents can circulate even when the pump is off. Not too big of a hole mind you or it defeats the purpose, but a cylinder that long is going to work quite well at creating natural convection currents, just like how a chimney creates a vacuum at the bottom.
This is really interesting. Probably going to get myself in trouble with the people setting my well pump lol.
Wow my pump was installed in 2005 so its 19 years old maybe I should get a new one and keep it for when mine goes out.
Another great video! Thank you! You have a nice looking shop also. Thanks for the information. I hope you get to the 100k. You deserve them
Great information
Keep up the good work. I'm watching video after video of yours because I have to fix my daughter's well. The poor kids don't have water so I'm head upstate tomorrow to see what I can do. I love the idea of using a sleeve like that to extend the life of the pump. I would like to do that for them if I have to replace the pump itself. The wires around her capacitor and hard start are toast so I figure that's not good. Getting new capacitor and hard start, also replacing wires. Have only seen pictures of her situation.
Inertial separator - nice!!
Very clever solution, sir! Cheap, simple and effective - makes by far the best kind of solution.
Looks like the thing to do. I had a 4” drain pipe on my rack so I’m giving it a try. Time will tell. Thanks for all the info you share.
I have another well that needs a pump, won’t start and pulling 17 amps on one leg. That pump is 12 years old and has 1” PVC. Not as easy to pull as poly pipe.
Absolutely would like one of these pump sleeves! Will be pulling my only 3.5 yr old Franklin pump next month (sad face) when the weather warms more (Interior Alaska). Pretty sure the check valve at well pump failed since water is backing down the well pipe and causes air to enter and is making the pipes sputter every time the pump cycles after pressure drops down (pump switch set at 30-50 with expansion tank at 28psi). There's another check valve just before the expansion tank that probably directly contributed to the suspected failure with the negative pressure and the water hammer slamming down on the pump check valve. I will remove the check valve at the tank in favor of a cycle stop valve (CSV) or just keep it all simple like your videos suggested and only the check valve at pump. 180' well with water at 146' and pump is supposedly sitting at 160' or slightly lower (all according to the builder who had the well drilled and pump installed). When the symptoms first started with the surge of water bringing the air up there was a large amount of sediment being brought up too, so I can imagine the pump had to fight through that. May buy a Grundfos pump and redo the poly pipe and wiring since I'll have everything out. Watched most of your other videos, so thank you for the great content since that gave the motivation to attempt this DIY!
Update on my own comment: Well is 185' deep with water at 160' (probably 140-150' now that the melt finally happened in interior Alaska). Pump was at 180'. Turns out it wasn't a Franklin pump, but a "Lowe's special" $499 (cheaper elsewhere too) "Utilitech Pro" pump. Turns out the original installer chose not to add an extra 1 1/4 brass check valve on the top of the pump. Just the flimsy plastic internal check valve that failed, allowing water to back down the 160 psi poly pipe and causing air in the PEX tubing once the expansion tank emptied and it took the extra 15-30 seconds for water to make its way back up the long poly pipe.
Everything else appeared well done. Could be better here and there, but overall a good install with proper splicing, taping, a torque arrestor, and even the plastic spacers throughout the length of pipe with the nylon rope on one side and the wiring on the other.
Why they cheaped out on $50 for the extra check valve I don't know.
Either way now that I've done it, the water works as it should with no air in pipes. Of course I still want one of those sleeves, because the average lifespan (based on the many negative reviews on Lowe's and elsewhere) is 3-5 years and it's currently 3 years old. The home builder claims he has the same pump in houses nearby with 7 years going, but that has to be borrowed time.
I will take the risk and plan ahead for a next summer replacement with a Grundfos pump and would love one of the sleeves to put the finishing touch on it.
I think you could of picked up the old filter and removed the rest of the old bracket. I love your work
I’d be interested to see a test on the temperature with a sleeve vs without a sleeve. You would probably need a thermocouple to get a temperature reading while the pump is running in the well.
Great info. All that being said, would it be a great value added item to make standard on all well installs not in 4” casing/liners?
Sounds like a great “this is why our wells are better” type of thing.
Thanks, this seems like a great idea for my silt problem
Have you ever had to pull a well where the pump fell off the end of a pvc pipe. My well did (or so I was told that by the well company I had hired) the well was drilled at 365 and about half way out of the hole it hung so that put the pressure to it with there puller truck and something gave and they was able to finish pulling the pipe out of the well with just the pump bushing on the end of the pipe and of course the wire and after that had to have a new well drilled at 400 feet
I'd probably use a hole saw and cut a hole the size of the pump in an end cap then glue that to a pvc pipe, slide it almost to the top and silicone it in place. I wouldn't expect the electrical tape to last for too long down the hole.
I can't seem to find the info online very easily and every time I ask Google or UA-cam this video pops up. I am installing a half horse submersible well pump inside of a cistern to help with making my parents cottage a little easier for them too. Start up and shut down for the winter. And when I unpacked it it has an 1" 1/2 outlet on the top. I'm assuming I can reduce it down to 1 in to make it a little easier to install in the bottom of the concrete system underground, but I don't know if that's going to cause too much restriction for the 12 ft of lift it needs to do to get up to the pressure tank. I know it is a little bit oversized for what it is but it was a smallest pump I could find and I just figured I'd get the biggest pressure tank I can get if it cycles a little bit too fast on the pressure tank I already have. Basically my question is can reduce the pump down to 1 in and not have any major issues with the pump and it over pressuring the pressure switch which I'm planning using a low pressure cut off switch and a float switch in the tank to cut off if it ever gets too low
You really have some informative Videos. Wish I would have known about this before I put my pump in the ground.
very Good Advice...How Ever Common Sense just isnt that common any more (I Can Prove It To) ..Sad but Very True in my experience any way !
Thanks for sharing this info ,
You’re blowing up Phil
We call it a shraud it also cools the motor as well by pulling water past the motor. there a ceramic baring on bottom of Motor the little hole on the bottom lets water in but there also rubber liner that keeps the water from entering the inside of it help cool the ceramic a interesting design if you were to cut it open. The sell a fancy version of that sleav that make a vortex only offered by pump supplyer. I for got what the date code was but I pull a sub that still working pulled on request of new home owner and it was all made from brass the out side and in side and was told they did that in the 60s jacuzzi pumps I have no idea how it could last that long and some of the control box look like it was make from card board really probably a wood of some type. It was cool to look at. The old house owner said the well was drilled in the late 50 . 👍👌✌️💦
I found your channel and man I wish you were located near me!!!!
I had a chaffed wire on a well pump, found it when the beaker kept tripping, got a new pump the original was 21 years old so
Might as well replace the wire and pump since it had to be pulled anyway!
Well new the problem, went to put the new pump and wire down the well (250 foot well) and it only went in 1/2 way and it won’t go any further!
Some obstruction about 100-125 foot down!!!
There was some mud on the roll pipe when we pulled up the original pump so I’m praying it wasn’t a partial or total collapse of the well!!!
What would you suggest I do next? When the new pump hits the obstruction you can hear a thud clearly! I tried LIGHTLY bobbing the pump up and down but it clearly isn’t going down any further in that well, something is blocking it!
Thinking a partial collapse or a rock was laying against the pipe as we pulled it past the rock fell over and is lodged in the well casing????
I have a question sir. I have a new well that is about one month old. I have been running it one hour on, three hours off to clear the well. The water is "dirty" when I run the pump with the spigot on the pressure wide open. When I run at half open or less, the water is clear... any ideas? Thx in advance. Love your videos
Could you leave the pump motor extended a little below the sleeve. Seems like pump would have to work harder in a more narrow confined space?
@ollie1976 the idea is to force all water to flow by the motor cooling it. Motors are typically what die, not the pump stack.
Awesome video, you are the man! Thanks for the info!
I just installed my Franklin one horse 10 gallon per minute pump yesterday plan to hook up the tank today and saw this video on putting in the pump sleeve to direct the water flow over the motor. the pump is at 200 feet, well depth 260 feet, static water line is it 25 feet. Should I pull that pump back out and put one of the sleeves on there? I’m in a granite, limestone and shell area of north east Alabama not far south of Chattanooga.
make that a standard feature
Great video and awesome tip! One question, how far below the pump should the sleeve extend pass? Again, genius idea!
6-8" past the end of the pump.
Hmm I wonder if I did that to my septic pump if that wud make it last longer as well 🤔
Hi, Nice video, Not sure why you said 4" pump in 6" casing people will not do it. I have 4" Pump in 6"casing and would like to install sleeve. Any suggestions?
Great video. Will this work for a 4” pump in a 5” casing?
Looks like a snug fit how does the water get into the intake. Would really appreciate your reply.
Makes sense
Would you recommend it in a bored well?
Great, informative videos.
I have a new well 955’ deep and some questions.
I see you have stacks of 300’ x 1” poly.
What do you use to butt connect them… I’ll need 3 rolls to reach the bottom of my new well.
Any other recommendations would be great.
Thanks in advance… CaptWingnut
Don't use poly at that depth my opinion think about pulling it and what is your well producing gpm and the static water level plus the diameter ? You can get poly in bigger length rolls. You need size your pump system for depth ,friction ,head pressure etc etc.
Poly won't cut it at that depth. If your water level drops that low during pumping you'll get over 400PSI at the pump head. That's a steel pipe job.
With that pipe over the motor you can burn the motor, as it will empty all the water from the well, even under the motor.
Will this decrease pressure a little enough to tell the difference?
No. No difference in pressure
Good instructional video thank you for your time.🖕🖕
How much for a pump sleeve?
We’re in the Philippines and have a 2” well casing. Is there a submersible pump available that we can get? Fantastic channel, keep up the great work! Thanks 😊
No unfortunately not. You'll require a jet pump.
Nice video and tips! Please what is the clearance between the pump and the pump sleeve? Must it be tight fit? Will it not starve the pump of water flow at some point? Just curious!
My well is driving me crazy. 1hp vertical jet pump. 100ft well. The original pump was cycling on and off every few minutes. I was told the leathers were bad so I pulled the pump and changed the leathers and the assembly at the bottom of the well. It's a 1" pipe inside of a 2" . Now with good leathers , bottom assembly & a new pump. It is blowing the flange seal . It fills the 2" pipe to the top and blows the seal. Can u help me under stand what I'm doing wrong thx
I have no clue, sorry. Not familiar with 2" wells. But sounds like you have the pressure side going to the well, not the suction side. Hard to say if im not on site to look at the entire system
Can you use a submersible pump in a shallow well? If so what type or size is best. I live in Missouri and most houses around me have shallow well.
What diameter well is it?
@@h2omechanic it will probably be 3 or 4 in.
@@jk_wrangler13 if its a 4" well, you can use a submersible 3" pump from grundfos
@@h2omechanic ok, does it matter what hp? I hope to get the well 30-40 ft. It will be supply a 3bed 2bath house.
It's a 50/50 chance . My typical well is 160ft.
Hey bud, I have a question. How do you feel about a union type tank tee compared to a non union tee? I understand the less unions there are the less chances for leaks, but I go through pressure tanks regularly up here with the 5.7ph water I have. I thought the tank replacement would be easier with the union tee since I won't have to mess with the poly pipe or the other connections when replacing the tank which isn't gonna be long, current tank is 11 years old, disintegrating slowly on the bottom connection and leaking from the tee.. I have an Amtrol WX-203 tank, they seem to last the longest around here. What brand of tank tees do you recommend? Stainless or brass? What brand of pressure tank is your favorite considering my water is battery acid? Thanks in advance, I very much appreciate your advice and quick responses. 😁
I like the union type Tees. We just don't use them. But they make alot of sense, they just aren't cheaper if bought in bulk.
Brass is less likely to leak & SS will probably last forever. I'd say go for it, either is fine. Brass is easier to work with imo.
It reminds me of a squid. You could call it a Well Pump Squid 🦑
What area do you guys work?
Va/Nc
@@h2omechanic how far down into NC do you guys go? I'm about 40 minutes south of Danville, VA.
@@neoc03 all the way to China!
Need help to design the system and like to buy them from you
Static water level at 75 ft well deep 600 ft the top part of the pipe above the ground is metal casing 8 in
Well produce 20 gallon per minute
I can design you one. You'll need to buy a 8" well seal somewhere else though. Hwdracing@gmail.com we can communicate there. I'll call you, it'll be easier to make a list of items & help me to understand your water usage needs
@@h2omechanic ok goid
🍀👍🙏
I miss Red Jacket thanks for nothing ITT