I wish I could B wit U Guy's , You Were Like BOOM Storis, Mates,, I know I was Like A Drunk Bos'n Chief''' But On That Ship It was Kinda what I was supposed 2 Be, I Am way over that shett' Miss U guy's much'' Hey I have much Rooms if ever U Guys want 2 come Up & hang wit Me? But It will B let Me come down & Fish Big CatFish n your hood. L.
Complete coincidence, I purchase a 35 hp Johnson for cheap yesterday. Guy just said stopped running. I stumble on to your video from 3 years ago. Looking like the exact same thing on my motor. Got hot 20 psi compression. Pulled the head, gasket looks pretty tuff, cylinders still have cross hatch and no scoring. I'm hoping to get as lucky as your customer did and be able to bring it back. Keep up the great work!!!! Michael out
+Lustfulvengance, I Think something must have got clogged in the upper pick up tube beneath the power head but above the water pump, That is the only thing I could figure how the impeller would be undamaged yet the power head get as hot as it did? kodi
Another great video! After you lubed up the cylinders, I would be curious to know what the compression of both were? You had 90psi on the bottom after lubrication. Since you were about 30psi off before lubrication, I wonder if it would of been around that after lubrication?
+Phillip Taylor, It would have went up for sure, But by adding oil to just the bottom, that evened the numbers out which makes for easier starting, so I got lucky. kodi
+kramden, loved your prospective, Yep' You are spot on, This motor took a hit No doubt, I looked at the last time I serviced this motor the compression was 130 top & bottom, Now 105 top, 115 bottom! She runs & will get the job done but it took a few years off of her no doubt. kodi
+jasper60103 You must know your motors, cause You are spot on.. they are Tuff & very dependable! This was the very first ""Brand New"" Outboard I ever bought, I sold it in Perfect running condition after relying on it for 18 years. kodi
Great video, i have a 99 evinrude 30hp sshaft that got hot, i now have 70 psi in both cylinders you Any advice on removing the bolts and replacing the head gasket?
YES'' Do as I did in this video, Remove the head, Flex hone the cylinders, ''' Clean ''' oil & replace new head Gasket, Run as a new Motor Break In, kodibass
Hey kodibass, did you ever figure out what that brass screw and spring that you found were for? I found the same thing on an '83 35 hp and haven't figured it out. The motor runs fine and I can adjust the idle with the throttle cable but it's weird you found the exact same thing on a similar vintage motor. Thanks!
Hey Kodi, Can you tell me what is different about a Johnson "Canadian Derated" model? I have a 1994 J20CRERC. Evinrude connected me with an Evinrude family member, for "vintage tech support", he was very nice, but not sure about the Canadian Derated class. He thought it could be a higher than 20HP model, rated downwards; but it looks like a 20 (smaller carb than my 1998 E25 and 1993 E30).
I'm having hell with a 1961 Evinrude 18 horsepower lower unit. It's a first generation upper case with the small shifter bushing. It's just not sealing around the shifter.
Do you vacuum check your lower units? Eye pressure and vacuum check all of my customers lower units to come in to be serviced. I've had those oddball moments where they pressure test okay but vacuum test they fail and of course went in the water and all the water around on the seals they leak. I use a Stevens vacuum checker.
Hey Kodi I have 1986 30hp evinrude every couple trips out it will act like it’s starving for fuel when I give gas it will keep running but when I give it throttle it wants to die. Should I drill trough the little lead shot and blast carb cleaner through it? Thanks
+N83, How long has it been since the carb was removed, cleaned or better yet rebuilt? After 39 years hoses leak , crack, The carb passages get nasty etc. I would remove carb . replace old hoses order a carb kit rebuild & deep clean the carb. & Replace the fuel pump diaphragms , kodi
How did you deal with salt corrosion when having to take a bolt and or nut off these outboards? Especially a little quarter inch bolts that built the exhaust tuner to the powerhead? I don't deal with a lot of salt damage but I do get some because I'm only about 200 miles from the Texas coast.
+brt 123, The one thing I have figured out on these salties'' Go Slow, If it is a outboard I really want to bring back, I have taken up to 2 months coaxing it apart. heat, cool ,lubricate & repeat.. Speeeeeeed kills. kodi
The death of every Evinrude Johnson motor is loaning it to a buddy who then takes it out and get it warmed up to a mild 350 degrees.that bloody then returns it and says for whatever reason your boat motor just quit running I have to go immediately now as he hood slides like Bo Duke leaving your driveway!! Lol when you have one that overheats like that do you go ahead and pull the exhaust plate and have both the head and exhaust plate milled? on everyone that I get that has low compression and signs of overheating that's what I do
Kane Gatt, , On motors that mix 50-1 I use yama-lube. on Older motors pre 1964 that require a richer mix 24-1 I use AmsOIL, Any good brand 2 cycle motor oil will work fine ,, IF it is rated as TCW-3 that is the key TCW-3 ONLY. kodi
This is the video I've been needing to see for a year! I have a 35 Johnson ran hot from an immediate waterpump failure. I pulled the head off. Looked almost the same. I thought there must be something else wrong and never put it back together.
+the cowboy prepper, These older OMC motors are tuff, Give it a light sanding with 320 grit, & put it back together. If you have just light scoring it will most likely run. kodi
Well i cleaned it up real good. Put a head gasket on it. I had 60 and 90 psi on the cylinders. It cranked and ran. After it ran about 20 minutes with a water hose on it i checked the compression again. 100 psi on both cylinders. Its running good. Now to watch a video on replacing the water pump. Thank you for your video. Without it i would have probably trashed the motor
Just about to buy my first boat with one of these Johnson 30's on it. Are they good and strong engines in general? It's not been used in 4 years and starts but cuts out according to the seller.
Hello kodibass, I hope you are in Florida. Your videos are great and nice to see people like you sharing knowledge to help other guys with these old motors. I am on my 3rd johnny 25 - 30 hp now, I love working on these motors. The one I have now has identical signs of overheat, melted lower coil where it bolts to the head, wiring that is brittle and I found a smoked water pump that was shredded to pieces. Removed the head cover plate and found thermostat stuck open full of sand and shells. I pulled the head like you said and found the cylinders to be in great shape, no scoring and moving freely. I will replace everything like you have done. I have a question regarding the cylinder cooling passages. At the top and bottom of the heads are small rubber hose called cooling deflectors. I pulled them out out the top on thinking it was rubber from the impeller. I see they are supposed to be there to help divert the water. Are they essential to the cooling system? I never noticed this before. Do you ever see these hoses PN 335603 and 335602? Its 1983 J25RSS. How do you know which one goes top or bottom? Also this motor showed 30PSI on the initial facts check. I haven not installed the head yet because I am not sure what to do about the deflector hoses?
+EU, The defectors would be better described as restrictors their purpose is to allow cooling water to remain in & around the head cooling passages a bit longer before circulating out thru & out the final discharge. If you look close on the upper head cooling passage there is a boss protrusion mark where the deflector should be placed, Now look at the bottom head passage & there is a recess in the inside cylinder circle where the deflector is suppose to seat. As far as the actual PN for these deflectors, Use OMC fuel line , 3/8 " cut it to fit where the Original deflectors were & You are good 2 go. As to if it is "" critical"" No it is there to give longevity 2 your motor, If you have a good pump impeller and T-stat your motor should be fine, kodi
@@kodibassInsideoutboards thanks for the reply, It looks like these restrictors should be installed to the full depth of the water passage? Also I see three of them on my 83 25 hp, does that seem correct? I have two on the bottom and one on top, I do see the bosses that you mention,
I have a problem with my 30 horse Evinrude 1989 It did get hot once and shut off because the impeller stopped working and I didn't notice. I brought it home and put new spark plugs and spark plug wires and coil packs on and it fired right up absolutely no problem and ran like a top. I did a compression check and it only has 65 PSI in the cylinders. But it was running absolutely perfect. Drove it around the River for a few days and it was running absolute Tip Top condition. Then a few days ago it just stalled out in the river and I finally got it to go enough to get us home it was running very rough to get us home then 3/4 of the way home for some reason it started to smooth arrow and run perfectly fine up to about 40 km an hour all the way home I got it in the driveway and now I cannot get it to run for the life of me or even make it go putt putt and stall. I did a compression check again and I'm still at 65 PSI per cylinder I know that is very low but I've been driving the boat around the river for about 2 weeks with the exact same compression so why would it just stopped working now. I have tried everything possible to get it running I have checked every single wire it's getting gas it's getting spark Aviary wire is perfectly fine but it will not even go putt putt. Any ideas
+JI I would do another compression check with a different compression gauge , if motor is not electric start spin flywheel with a good 1/2 inch electric drill. If compression is still @ 65 I would pull the head & have a look @ the head gasket & cylinders, kodi
@@jeremyillingworth4302 Is it electric start? or did u spin it with a drill? If yes & the numbers r still low squirt 1/2 teaspoon off 2 cycle oil in each cylinder & a squirt of fresh straight gas in the carb then see if it will pop. kodi
@@kodibassInsideoutboards if it electric start I have put gas down the carburetor and in the plugs and it did nothing but I will try to put some 2-cycle oil in the plugs maybe that will generate enough pressure for putt putt I'll do that in the am
@@paulmarriott3885 On a 1978, there is no top orifice in that long transition chamber, There are a series of holes that control idle & transition to high speed via adjusting the long needle valve at the front, to access this area for cleaning & inspection drill a small hole in the Welch plug ( Lead core plug) on top & pry off with a pick clean holes with a small wire. A new Welch plug will come in a carb kit for your motor OMC PART # 0387356. kodi
Well, she aint new anymore, that's for sure...Like you say: NEVER lend your outboard out, to anyone, especially family!Yeah, they overheated the crap out of the poor 30hp, and just kept running her til she wouldn't run no more...No scores on the walls, but definite aluminum transfer on walls and pistons, probably rings are kinda stuck in places as well. It was easier to see overheating when the powerheads were white, the paint would turn brown. Much harder on the black powerheads, the glossy black finish usually just takes on a flat black look. The melted wiring tells the tale. Thanks for saving the old girl, she isn't gonna run like new anymore, but will run OK and give plenty more good service. Tell the owner should invest in a water pump job now as well. OMC outboards surely have their faults, but this video is a testament to just how rugged they are, and how much abuse they will tolerate and keep on running.
Hey Chief it’s yr Fav MK1 White on Storis Payne says hello Going to go seem him next Mon
I wish I could B wit U Guy's , You Were Like BOOM Storis, Mates,, I know I was Like A Drunk Bos'n Chief''' But On That Ship It was Kinda what I was supposed 2 Be, I Am way over that shett' Miss U guy's much'' Hey I have much Rooms if ever U Guys want 2 come Up & hang wit Me? But It will B let Me come down & Fish Big CatFish n your hood. L.
Complete coincidence, I purchase a 35 hp Johnson for cheap yesterday. Guy just said stopped running. I stumble on to your video from 3 years ago. Looking like the exact same thing on my motor. Got hot 20 psi compression. Pulled the head, gasket looks pretty tuff, cylinders still have cross hatch and no scoring. I'm hoping to get as lucky as your customer did and be able to bring it back. Keep up the great work!!!! Michael out
+Lustfulvengance, I Think something must have got clogged in the upper pick up tube beneath the power head but above the water pump, That is the only thing I could figure how the impeller would be undamaged yet the power head get as hot as it did? kodi
I have a 30 hp too what torque spec for head bolts
Slow mode
Another great video! After you lubed up the cylinders, I would be curious to know what the compression of both were? You had 90psi on the bottom after lubrication. Since you were about 30psi off before lubrication, I wonder if it would of been around that after lubrication?
+Phillip Taylor, It would have went up for sure, But by adding oil to just the bottom, that evened the numbers out which makes for easier starting, so I got lucky. kodi
+kramden, loved your prospective, Yep' You are spot on, This motor took a hit No doubt, I looked at the last time I serviced this motor the compression was 130 top & bottom, Now 105 top, 115 bottom! She runs & will get the job done but it took a few years off of her no doubt. kodi
+jasper60103 You must know your motors, cause You are spot on.. they are Tuff & very dependable! This was the very first ""Brand New"" Outboard I ever bought, I sold it in Perfect running condition after relying on it for 18 years. kodi
Great video, i have a 99 evinrude 30hp sshaft that got hot, i now have 70 psi in both cylinders you Any advice on removing the bolts and replacing the head gasket?
YES'' Do as I did in this video, Remove the head, Flex hone the cylinders, ''' Clean ''' oil & replace new head Gasket, Run as a new Motor Break In, kodibass
Hey kodibass, did you ever figure out what that brass screw and spring that you found were for? I found the same thing on an '83 35 hp and haven't figured it out. The motor runs fine and I can adjust the idle with the throttle cable but it's weird you found the exact same thing on a similar vintage motor. Thanks!
Hey Kodi, Can you tell me what is different about a Johnson "Canadian Derated" model? I have a 1994 J20CRERC. Evinrude connected me with an Evinrude family member, for "vintage tech support", he was very nice, but not sure about the Canadian Derated class. He thought it could be a higher than 20HP model, rated downwards; but it looks like a 20 (smaller carb than my 1998 E25 and 1993 E30).
I'm having hell with a 1961 Evinrude 18 horsepower lower unit. It's a first generation upper case with the small shifter bushing. It's just not sealing around the shifter.
Do you vacuum check your lower units? Eye pressure and vacuum check all of my customers lower units to come in to be serviced. I've had those oddball moments where they pressure test okay but vacuum test they fail and of course went in the water and all the water around on the seals they leak. I use a Stevens vacuum checker.
You find out how good a friend you got when it comes time to pay for the damages. I bet you are still waiting.
Hey Kodi I have 1986 30hp evinrude every couple trips out it will act like it’s starving for fuel when I give gas it will keep running but when I give it throttle it wants to die. Should I drill trough the little lead shot and blast carb cleaner through it? Thanks
+N83, How long has it been since the carb was removed, cleaned or better yet rebuilt? After 39 years hoses leak , crack, The carb passages get nasty etc. I would remove carb . replace old hoses order a carb kit rebuild & deep clean the carb. & Replace the fuel pump diaphragms , kodi
The moral of this story is don't own your outboard out
Somebody got that motor smoking hot
Thankfully, those are tough engines. Good job!
What would the difference between 30& 35 HP, would it be a bore thing or just a bigger carb or something
+Iw, carb jetting, is all, high jet is a bit larger
Excellent work on problem solving techniques used on a previous overheated engine
+JB, Thank you, This is another of my bread & budda Motors I sell thes like hot cakes, kodi
How did you deal with salt corrosion when having to take a bolt and or nut off these outboards? Especially a little quarter inch bolts that built the exhaust tuner to the powerhead? I don't deal with a lot of salt damage but I do get some because I'm only about 200 miles from the Texas coast.
+brt 123, The one thing I have figured out on these salties'' Go Slow, If it is a outboard I really want to bring back, I have taken up to 2 months coaxing it apart. heat, cool ,lubricate & repeat.. Speeeeeeed kills. kodi
The death of every Evinrude Johnson motor is loaning it to a buddy who then takes it out and get it warmed up to a mild 350 degrees.that bloody then returns it and says for whatever reason your boat motor just quit running I have to go immediately now as he hood slides like Bo Duke leaving your driveway!! Lol
when you have one that overheats like that do you go ahead and pull the exhaust plate and have both the head and exhaust plate milled? on everyone that I get that has low compression and signs of overheating that's what I do
+brt 123, Yep' nobody cares for your equipment like YOU. 4sure. kodi
Another great save!!! :)
What brand of two stroke oil do you mainly use please ?
Thanks and good video !
Kane Gatt, , On motors that mix 50-1 I use yama-lube. on Older motors pre 1964 that require a richer mix 24-1 I use AmsOIL, Any good brand 2 cycle motor oil will work fine ,, IF it is rated as TCW-3 that is the key TCW-3 ONLY. kodi
This is the video I've been needing to see for a year! I have a 35 Johnson ran hot from an immediate waterpump failure. I pulled the head off. Looked almost the same. I thought there must be something else wrong and never put it back together.
+the cowboy prepper, These older OMC motors are tuff, Give it a light sanding with 320 grit, & put it back together. If you have just light scoring it will most likely run. kodi
Well i cleaned it up real good. Put a head gasket on it. I had 60 and 90 psi on the cylinders. It cranked and ran. After it ran about 20 minutes with a water hose on it i checked the compression again. 100 psi on both cylinders. Its running good. Now to watch a video on replacing the water pump. Thank you for your video. Without it i would have probably trashed the motor
+the cowboy prepper, Fantastic , most likely go for many years. kodi
I thought that the water outlet looked a bit weak
Just all the crap in my tank, kodi
Could you have use a flex hone instead?
+JB Yes' would have worked just fine. kodi
Just about to buy my first boat with one of these Johnson 30's on it. Are they good and strong engines in general? It's not been used in 4 years and starts but cuts out according to the seller.
Yes' they are very good motors, clean the carb, replace old fuel hoses, change lower unit & water pump impeller. clean & lube. kodi
@@kodibassInsideoutboards thanks so much for the advice awesome Chanel!
Hello kodibass, I hope you are in Florida. Your videos are great and nice to see people like you sharing knowledge to help other guys with these old motors. I am on my 3rd johnny 25 - 30 hp now, I love working on these motors. The one I have now has identical signs of overheat, melted lower coil where it bolts to the head, wiring that is brittle and I found a smoked water pump that was shredded to pieces. Removed the head cover plate and found thermostat stuck open full of sand and shells. I pulled the head like you said and found the cylinders to be in great shape, no scoring and moving freely. I will replace everything like you have done. I have a question regarding the cylinder cooling passages. At the top and bottom of the heads are small rubber hose called cooling deflectors. I pulled them out out the top on thinking it was rubber from the impeller. I see they are supposed to be there to help divert the water. Are they essential to the cooling system? I never noticed this before. Do you ever see these hoses PN 335603 and 335602? Its 1983 J25RSS. How do you know which one goes top or bottom?
Also this motor showed 30PSI on the initial facts check. I haven not installed the head yet because I am not sure what to do about the deflector hoses?
+EU, The defectors would be better described as restrictors their purpose is to allow cooling water to remain in & around the head cooling passages a bit longer before circulating out thru & out the final discharge. If you look close on the upper head cooling passage there is a boss protrusion mark where the deflector should be placed, Now look at the bottom head passage & there is a recess in the inside cylinder circle where the deflector is suppose to seat. As far as the actual PN for these deflectors, Use OMC fuel line , 3/8 " cut it to fit where the Original deflectors were & You are good 2 go. As to if it is "" critical"" No it is there to give longevity 2 your motor, If you have a good pump impeller and T-stat your motor should be fine, kodi
@@kodibassInsideoutboards thanks for the reply, It looks like these restrictors should be installed to the full depth of the water passage? Also I see three of them on my 83 25 hp, does that seem correct? I have two on the bottom and one on top, I do see the bosses that you mention,
I have a problem with my 30 horse Evinrude
1989
It did get hot once and shut off because the impeller stopped working and I didn't notice.
I brought it home and put new spark plugs and spark plug wires and coil packs on and it fired right up absolutely no problem and ran like a top.
I did a compression check and it only has 65 PSI in the cylinders.
But it was running absolutely perfect.
Drove it around the River for a few days and it was running absolute Tip Top condition.
Then a few days ago it just stalled out in the river and I finally got it to go enough to get us home it was running very rough to get us home then 3/4 of the way home for some reason it started to smooth arrow and run perfectly fine up to about 40 km an hour all the way home I got it in the driveway and now I cannot get it to run for the life of me or even make it go putt putt and stall.
I did a compression check again and I'm still at 65 PSI per cylinder I know that is very low but I've been driving the boat around the river for about 2 weeks with the exact same compression so why would it just stopped working now.
I have tried everything possible to get it running I have checked every single wire it's getting gas it's getting spark Aviary wire is perfectly fine but it will not even go putt putt.
Any ideas
+JI I would do another compression check with a different
compression gauge , if motor is not electric start spin flywheel with a good 1/2 inch electric drill. If compression
is still @ 65 I would pull the head & have a look @ the head gasket & cylinders, kodi
@@kodibassInsideoutboards I've been a compression check probably a dozen times in the last 3 days I bought an entire brand new kit
@@jeremyillingworth4302 Is it electric start? or did u spin it with a drill? If yes & the numbers r still low squirt
1/2 teaspoon off 2 cycle oil in each cylinder & a squirt
of fresh straight gas in the carb then see if it will pop. kodi
@@kodibassInsideoutboards if it electric start I have put gas down the carburetor and in the plugs and it did nothing but I will try to put some 2-cycle oil in the plugs maybe that will generate enough pressure for putt putt I'll do that in the am
I have a 1978 35 hp evinrude and have no control of slow idle don't know where to get tool to get top orders out to put a new one in any idea
+PM, Not sure what you mean top order, need a bit more info kodi
@@kodibassInsideoutboards sorry missed spelled,tool to take out top orifice
@@paulmarriott3885 On a 1978, there is no top orifice in that long transition chamber, There are a series of holes that control idle & transition to high speed via adjusting the long needle valve at the front, to access this area for cleaning & inspection drill a small hole in the Welch plug ( Lead core plug) on top & pry off with a pick clean holes with a small wire. A new Welch plug will come in a carb kit for your motor OMC PART # 0387356. kodi
WELL DONE
+Victor Remick, Thanks for the kind words, & for watching. kodi
Well, she aint new anymore, that's for sure...Like you say: NEVER lend your outboard out, to anyone, especially family!Yeah, they overheated the crap out of the poor 30hp, and just kept running her til she wouldn't run no more...No scores on the walls, but definite aluminum transfer on walls and pistons, probably rings are kinda stuck in places as well. It was easier to see overheating when the powerheads were white, the paint would turn brown. Much harder on the black powerheads, the glossy black finish usually just takes on a flat black look. The melted wiring tells the tale. Thanks for saving the old girl, she isn't gonna run like new anymore, but will run OK and give plenty more good service. Tell the owner should invest in a water pump job now as well. OMC outboards surely have their faults, but this video is a testament to just how rugged they are, and how much abuse they will tolerate and keep on running.
+ David Elton ,, To my Loyal subs, Thanks for your kind words,, kodi!
So what ya think caused her to overheat to begin with?? Junk on the water intake?