The Guthrie Govan Charvel has a FATAL DESIGN FLAW!
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- Опубліковано 30 кві 2024
- I can't believe Guthrie Govan wanted his signature guitar like this. This is a first year GG Signature from 2014, made in the Fender USA Custom Shop, and it has one major design flaw that would make it almost completely unplayable for me.
#guitar #repair #fender
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that input jack idea was originaly Hamer Diablo, i think ... cool guitar
the tremol-no is a great piece of gear. i have been using them for a long time. you just don't understand the setup of it.
btw, you criticized the tremol-no for some design flaws it doesn't have. that rod is on a hinge, so it moves as the tremblock moves, it keeps alignment. you assumed that it is just solid. not the case.
Just a heads up the reason why the Tremolo-no is binding is because some dip shit has the 3rd spring off center and when you are trying to use the Floyd the bridge isn't pivoting straight due to the tension being off center and physics functioning as it should, so it is binding the sliding shaft mechanism. Personally I think the flaw is in the fact the slide mechanism isn't in the center of the claw and block. You also need to make sure the set screws on the slide mechanism is right and not tightened at all otherwise it will bind.
The biggest flaw with my guitar is I'm not Guthrie Govan.
Me either, m’man. Me either.
🤣
As my guitar gently queefs.
lmaooooo
Hahahaa!
☠️☠️☠️
Shredding in a Cosby sweater on a parlor couch....life is good.
I made a joke about Jello and Roofies, but UA-cam deleted it. They have no taste in good jokes.
That tremol-no is not configured correctly. The claw section is unscrewed too far out of the body for it to work without the "piston" bar binding like it is there. The "piston" bar is supposed to be co-linear with the block and there is a lever joint on the connection to the bridge. If it isn't configured correctly, the mechanism will never work as intended.
The idea is to be able to either hard block the bridge, or have only down whammy action on the bridge depending on which screws are tighened down.
I used to have one of the earlier models of it on a Jackson RR3 many years ago. They work a treat if you set them up correctly.
I'm pretty sure the "piston" bar is hardened (or used to be in the model I had) so that is doesn't get all burred up and cause excessive friction.
Thank you for your comment. I’ve been a user of the Tremol-no since its release. I have a couple of Hamer SS models with floating Floyds and they have and still work smoothly - never had a problem.
But the claw position has everything to do with string tension. If you're setting up the trem to find the zero point (spring vs string) and keeping the plate of the trem parallel to the top of the guitar (in most cases) then the claw is going to wind up wherever it winds up. Screw in to far and the tremolo will be pulled back, to little and it's tilted forward. I've had several Tremol-No's and it's just how it is.
@@Schuylock You can control the claw position by adding or removing springs or using springs with a different spring tension.
In this case I would first remove a spring (2 springs instead of 3) and then set the claw position. If the position is still not suitable, then it's a case of sourcing springs with appropriate tension.
This is the same as selecting appropriate spring count/spring tension for the string guage & scale length of the guitar.
I have tremol-nos on all my floyd guitars (They also have the EVH D-tuna) and the location of the claw doesn't matter nearly as much are you're claiming here.
The LTD KH-202 I have has the claw farther out like this guitar with ZERO issues and I have an arrow-401 that only has 2 springs that has the claw further in.
@@hughjanus5518 It matters man. No two guitars have exactly the same dimensions by nature of the fact they are made from wood.
Build one for yourself and you'll see how unfrogiving dimesnions can be.
That's right... Brad was one of the first with amp vids. Not consistent, but always entertaining regardless. Thanks for being you, Brad!
The guitar is clearly built by Chevrolet
Lol. I never trusted the tree-less headstock on these Govan guitars. 'It's got staggered tuners, it doesn't need a tree!' Well the nut needs to be perfectly slotted and pitched or you'll get a sitar high E string, and Charvel is not perfectionist so here's the result in this video. Too many guitars in the stupid in-between zone - not a proper Floyd, not a hardtail, so still a bunch of finnicky bullshit issues to deal with. I wish they'd top mount the tremolos like Strats have always been. Recessed bridges should only be double locking Floyds.
@@guyincognito320the staggered gotoh magnums are the same but go even further down then whatever these tuners are. So it’s possible those would solve the problem
@@guyincognito320 It has got to the stage with CNC machining, higher QC control & hardware that is generally higher quality that in order for a $3.7k guitar to be justified & not just slap a persons name on it along with the brand they have to offer what cheaper guitars cannot do for the price. Clearly this guitar fails badly on all counts & is sub $1k guitar on a good day. Also the argument of "US made" is garbage, many US products manufactured are very similar in price to products made else ware. The customer is always right, they buy products based on quality & price, not who made it & where.
@@triax7006 Yeah, I have no interest in US guitars. The draw with this Guthrie one is the stainless frets, but you could get a mint Pro Mod on Reverb for 800, or a new one for maybe 900, and re-fret it and be sitting at 1300 or so. I wish they'd just make that out of the gate, I'd happily pay for the added labor involved with the hard fret wire.
The change in the guitar industry has been that the cheap ones got way better. But some of these US guitars have terribly cheap parts like this pot metal Floyd base plate. I don't really like the Guthrie setup because it's too peculiar for my tastes. He's used to it and has an intuition for it. When you buy it you'll have to do the same. There's a reason they always put a string guide on the 1 and 2 at least. It seems that 2 string guides causes tuning issues because the wound 4th string is binding with the windings. When Charvel went down to 1 string guide, it seems that people complained about tuning issues less.
Great looking guitar. The guitar sounds amazing with you playing it!!
I've got a Tube Depot t-shirt that says, "Revolt Against the Solid State" 😆
Solid State Rules.
I wouldn't call it a paper weight but then again there's no way in hell I would ever pay 3700 dollars for it .
Well yea that’s why you negotiate to 3k and it’s worth every penny of that.
@@EJH-jn6mo I don't know of any guitar shop I've ever walked into that would knock 20% off the price tag of anything they carry. What the hell kind of negotiating are you doing?
😂.I won't go and give me secrets out but I won't pay but %30-%50 retail for gear and I've found some killer deals on brand new gear. You gotta know where to look and then what to look for. 😅
@@auntjenifer7774 If there's the slightest thing wrong with where they knock the price down, it's not brand new.
@@auntjenifer7774 you should teach us bro
Man, that palm muted shredding was slick af.
Step 1 - Remove the Tremol-No.
Problem solved.
That said, I have one on my Ibanez RG2027, without these issues. I actually know the guy who invented this, Kevan Geier. I remember when it was in development.
How Guthrie tunes is likely similar to the Frauda method - tune to pitch, really go ham on the trem, then 1) tune one string, 2) dive, 3) tune back. Repeat for all strings. Strat players know this sort of thing very, very well. And the G string is the biggest culprit for tuning issues. When you bend, or use the trem, you give the trem a quick whack back down (sometimes up), and you return to perfect tune.
I use a similar method for stability where I bend and pull UP on the trem, then tune. A slight pull up will always put it back in tune if it goes slightly wonky. Graphtech saddles and nut help tremendously, a perfectly filed nut slot, and something like Big Bends Nut Sauce (I use my own concoction of powdered graphite and Super Lube oil/grease mixture.)
If it’s good enough for Guthrie it’s good enough for me. Now, can anyone lend me 3k?
Nuff said the end.
They make a MIM version that is killer for $1500
hes not playing this model.
@@drumitar I know but it was a model developed to his specifications. There’s a ton of videos on here of him talking about it. And I just think it’s a damn cool looking guitar.
That guitar is way over priced. We get far too excited over slabs of wood bolted together with the earliest of electrical technology and strings. I like cheap guitars that play and sound great.
I disagree. If I had the money I would buy one similar in a second. Rn I'm playing an epi white bja Junior with a super distortion in it. Amazing guitar.... but I like gun oil custom shop stats. That's what I need but with an oxblood body plz. Birdseye oil neck. Single ceramic pickup with a speed knob and a Killswitch.
Obviously with the tortoise shell guard. I'll put my name on it too in gold leaf.
All Gold hardware
No disrespect
You have no idea what it costs to produce the guitar. How are you assessing that it’s over-priced? You have no idea how much R&D went into designing it. The pickups and trem were designed specifically for this guitar. That takes time and money
@@georgeestremera1464 you don't know me or what ideas I have or not. I have conducted R&D as an engineer. Please don't try to explain to me engineering costs or anything business related. Solid body guitars are not as special as some wish.
You couldn’t possibly know what this specific guitar cost to develop unless you’re an FMIC employee or worked directly with Chip Ellis, Michael Frank Braun, and Guthrie. You might have opinions and ideas, but that’s a guess at best.
The Guitologist and Uncle Doug are OGs
Guthrie’s PU wiring scheme is the trick, various coils combined in a very specific way, I forget the details, so he can go from country thin chicken picking, to deep jazz or even heavy metal sounds
The Tremol-No should go to a D shaft with a small flat to prevent the creaking. Just needs a couple thousandths clearance on the flat. It would provide better clamping force from more surface area and thread engagement. A PTFE cylinder insert would eliminate the need for lubrication.
The rod does pivot on a pin when you use the trem, keeping it in line with the cylinder.
Just a couple design changes would make the thing work so much better. For what they charge, it should have been done a decade ago.
This guitar is 10 years old now, so maybe they’ve fixed it.
@@TheGuitologist I didn't see any changes on the models being sold currently.
Some people don't seem to have problems with them. Maybe they just need to be regularly used and lubed.
OMFG, you are obsessed with a guitar being "in tune"?
Go listen to some Uncle Neil!!
It ain't gonna happen!
Man I wrestled a Trem-l-no for weeks trying to get the feel right with no binding. I couldn't do it. I messed with the claw a bunch like the company recommends. I failed. :( which sucks because it's a great idea.
@@TheGuitologistFixed What, exactly?
Uncle Neil Young never obsessed about "being in tune" did he?
It's just a fact of life:
A guitar can't really "be in tune".
Probably put a flat on the knife edges and posts of the trem because the bridge height was adjusted under tension.
Not likely. It isn't a cheap knockoff guitar, so the steel is fine. What do you think goes on when you work a whammy hard? That is going to cause a lot more stress to the knife edge than turning the screw. It has to be under tension otherwise it is a guessing game: no thanks.
Saw a guy use a sliding door latch as a tremelo block before....genius and cheap!
Imagine the killer low cost guitars one can buy with 3700. And only have to change pickups sometimes. And do a fret setup sometimes.
The tremel-no is not setup correctly. I've set one up before and it's a tedious task to get it setup correctly. As for the lack of fine tuners, the original floyd did not have them and Guthrie has said that they get in the way when he's playing.
you don't need a straight edge because a fresh string, under tension is perfectly straight. you're sighting the neck relative to the strings.
Brad PLEASE loosen the strings before you adjust the height on a Floyd style bridge... if you turn the posts under tension you're wearing out the edges of the trem killing the tuning stability! 😢
It's true you shouldn't do that too much. But if you don't adjust the height under tension, how can you know if you've gone far enough other than trial and error? You have to detune the guitar, turn the height adjustment screws, retune, test, and repeat. Very tedious and for little or no reason. For minor and occasional adjustments, it's ok. This is another example why I hate these internet age hard and fast rules everyone comes up with all the time. They're not very productive.
Modern floyd rose are made of softer materials then they where way back, don't think the tuning unstablelity you are experiencing is not the tremolo no but warn out knife edges on the floyd, never turn the studs with sting tension.
Guitologist, why would you "sight down the neck" of all your guitars, if you can just fret the string in two places to use as a straight edge? And then slide a guitar pick between the string and a fret, as a thickness gauge? If the string just holds a 0.6 mm pick, it's a good relief. (And that is all that a 0.6 mm pick is good for and the only reason to have one.)
They come with shims to get that shaft at the right pitch to where it doesn't make noise, I messed with one awhile back and ended up removing it...
39:36 i been looking for one of those Boss systems for a reasonable price In reasonable condition for awhile. What do you think about it? Do you like it?
I own one and the stability is amazing so not sure what you’re doing wrong on the tremelno
Great video, Brad. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for sighting down the neck from the headstock to the bridge. Don't know how many experts have told me to sight from the bridge to the headstock. That absolutely doesn't work for me.
Can’t see shit that way.
Impressive no pick and no finger nail playing, i thought that i was alone in the planet. Well done carnal (brother).God bless everyone of my rockin friends.
i have tremolno in all my guitars and they all work great
Setting the intonation on an electric guitar is over obsessed.
When playing (especially in a live performance), finger pressure varies with “emotion” and can vary significantly.
A simple ‘close enough’ is sufficient. Any resultant deviation can be adjusted by experience with the particular instrument.
Experienced players will naturally compensate for such expected issues.
The bottom line:
Get to know your instrument and realize that playing “in tune” comes with experience.
btw: starting with an instrument that’s well tuned is imperative and seemingly overlooked by thousands in this day and age of low cost electronic tuners.
Yep.
You should make a fake US Quarter with a screw and two way tape it on there, and say, " Here, fixed it!"
The Tremol-No is great if you need to tune to drop D real quick. I think a D-Tuna is a little easier but they're both just compromises to not have to bring another guitar to a gig, which I'm all in favor of. I had to bring five guitars to a show for a band I was in and that got old -real- fast.
D Tuna doesnt work on a bridge that floats. That's the entire purpose of the tremol-no - to allow the trem to go from floating to dive only to fixed with the twist of a few knobs.
@@KyleP133 Quite correct, a very important point. A floating bridge requires balanced tension to remain floating, tuning the E to a D, no matter how you do it, will change the tension on one side of the equation.
I had a tremol no in a Ibanez Prestige RG652.
With the push of one of those buttons, it could, jush push down only on the trem, completely floating or completely locked. It worked.
I just never was good at playing with a Floyd Rose type bridge.
By the way Brad, I love the way you play guitar. Absolutely awesome.👍👍👍👍
39:34 ... or... you may have been grinding the knife edge and/or posts when you raised the posts without loosening the strings 😬
thanks youtube for once again not notifying me 🤬😡
They know your a conspiracy theorist 😂
Those tremel-nos have a side adjustment at the block that you could probably adjust. My experience has been that they're always pushed so far to one side to line up with the hole that they need to redesign the whole thing.
I have the temol-no on both of my floyd equiped guitars and its a floyd must IMO.
It helps when you're doing bends with one string while holding the other so the bridge doesnt lift, biggest reason I use them is in conjunction with the EVH D-tuna, otherwise when utilizing it and dropping tuning on the low E the other 5 strings would go sharp.
Thats not why its been utilized here but IMO are a must with any full floating tremolo.
Another guy lower says this one isnt set-up correctly yet this is how one of my guitars has it set-up.
A better way to check how much relief you have is to hold down the 1st and 19th(approx) fret then tap the string around the 9th, it's a much more accurate way of checking the neck bow.
That works very well too. I've just always used the gun sight method.
@@TheGuitologist Fair enough👍
I have a harder time sighting neck relief on compound radius necks, so I sometimes use both methods, and I also have a set of notched straight edges for Gibbys, Fenders, and PRS, and even one for short and long scale bass guitars. Whatever it takes for my old eyes to get an accurate, repeatable measurement, I guess.
@@craighamley3669 I have ordered a notched straight edge for myself that should arrive tomorrow...I understand what you're saying!
No it isn't.
Not sure if you found this, but the shaft on many of the Tremelo-no units needs to be sanded down to slide better. Did that on both of mine, and perfect since.
I love your guitar playing style
You are definitely right about intonation and the playing position crap.. but definitely tune a guitar with floyd and locking nut in playing playing position, before tighting the nut down
Awesome as Always Another really cool vid Thankyou
The face of the tremol-no’s spring claw has to be really close to perfectly parallel to the tremolo block, otherwise the shaft/sleeve will bind and be noisy when using the trem.
Just got my Guthrie today. Loving everything about it but having the same buzzing issue on the high e and b strings. As soon as put my finger on it the buzzing stops. Should i send the guitar back or is this an easy fix? thank you to anyone willing to help
Fun fact: You can drop a string on a Bigsby or Vibrola without the rest going out of tune.
Man, these old school intros make me feel like I'm popping in a VHS copy of Goonies or Short Circuit.
Shoutout to Richard for this one.
@@TheGuitologist Love the retro intros 👍
Thanks for the info 👍🇺🇸
Uncle Doug is the man! He makes things SO easy to understand with his analogies. Rip Rusty. Btw the Golan-Globus mock-up cracked me up at the beginning. Flashback to Delta Force and American Ninja in the 80s, love it!
I have an old 90s Jackson Kelly that I have been working on. I swapped the neck and have been having issues with getting it in lower tunings. This video was a lot of help. It also convinced me not to bother getting a tremel-no since it seems even more annoying than a floyd already is.
I will comment that having the guitar laying flat with the neck in a neck rest is more than likely introducing more forward bow than in playing position, which could affect both action and intonation.
I seriously wonder if the guitar really left the factory this way 🤔 in my many years of buying and fussing about with guitars l have been known to do the wrong things as far as trying to adjust my guitar throughout the year and season changes. This guitar has a roasted neck and even a graphite reinforced neck. Really really shouldn’t move under sensible use, travel and play. I have MANY roasted wood guitars that I travel with every week and they are extremely good and stable.
All Charvel necks sprout in winter, the roasted ones specifically. 'This is carmelized maple, which I guess means roasted, and it's got carbon rods so this baby isn't going anywhere!' - every review ever. It goes somewhere. You have to file off the fret tangs in January.
Brad the noise that made I imagined running into a Blues breaker and wondering if the squeak or the note would be clearer
Why didn't you back the strings off while adjusting the truss rod or bridge?
Never heard you play before, nice chops man you sound great!
Similarly, I have an EVH USA Wolfgang with D-Tuna. I many issues with the D-Tuna not staying in tune when switching between standard and drop D. I just leave it in drop D all the time. I use other guitars instead for standard tuning.
I mount my boat jacks upside down , a 90 ° Jack into
And the wire just falls into the strap button area thru the strap end like it Wants TO be there
No loop
Thanks
Thanks a ton, Alan! You're awesome.
I was pondering the logic of why odd thumb wheeled things rear bridge access wasn’t centered but was offset, & I’d noticed Guthrie’s guitar had the trem lock in the center spring hole of the rear of the bridge, while your neighbors guitar had it set up the second treble side spring hole?… 🕳️
Doesn't moving the trem up and down the posts cause th to blunt the knives edge under load like that?
Tip: Creamed
Shaft: Oiled
Now boy, let me handle it. Yeah that's right boy,...that shaft is right on, feels real good.
Your mom is a pro
Wood: Hand Rubbed
My 95 has a Wilkinson trem and it’s dead quiet
Got to hand it to you Brad, your Knopfler technique is on point.
The two knobs together lock the tremolo and make it a fixed bridge, then you can unlock it and use the tremolo, also makes string changes easier
I love my USA Guthrie Govan! I consider it my desert island guitar; the neck and the fretwork are beautiful! I have no use for the Tremol-No, so that's never been a worry. It feels so good in the hand and sounds so good.
I have a GG model I took off the no tremolo set up and put on a tremolo switch FZG Tremolo Switch it frees up the Gotoh bridge and feels better all around doesn't make it a hardtail
but can do different tuning Guthrie wanted the non fine tuning bridge because he had no use for the locking nut he said in so interviews that it bother his hands when he would
play in the lower register and sometimes it would cut his hand . So the custom shop came up with a happy medium
I used to want one of those Temol-no gadgets, but it just seems like they are too finicky to get setup right. GG probably has a tech tweaking it and maintaining his before every gig. I've seen comments from guitar technicians on the forums saying that they are commonly asked to remove these from guitars because they just don't work well for most people.
A mechanic will tell you metal on metal creates wear. The screws cause burrs on the shaft, which in turn causes sticking of that piston/cylinder arrangement.
Brad…stupid question…on a strat style tremolo…when raising the string action, how do you know to raise the saddles or raise the trem on the 2 posts…and yea, I’m an idiot 🫤
Thanks again Brad!
A question got The Guitologist. Do you have a favourite type of guitar, as in Strat, Tele, Les Paul, 335 etc. etc. What's your favourite guitar and/or guitar design to play or work on. Greetings to you from Ireland.
Tele. It’s simple. It can do it all.
He said he tightens the screw before tuning to drop D so he only has to tune one string. Which you deduced correctly. But any noise like that TremoloNo is creating will come through the amp, and the associated grinding will also cause the Floyd to hang up with tuning issues most likely.
What I thought he was saying that he’s using in drop D locking so he doesn’t need to tune all strings when he drops and comes back up to pitch
Easy way to check the intonation position question.....just check it on a good strobe tuner. I think you will be surprised what you find. If it needs to be measured with a strobe tuner those minute distances do matter in the overall scheme of things. I agree with your theory about trying new techniques on guitars. Everyone starts somewhere you just need the confidence and common sense to know when to back off if you get in too deep. well done!
I use mine tremstop with my floyd based midi guitar for doing Eb or drop D and no resetup
Dent or gouge on the side of the body at 6:13?
I’m afraid this is user error with the tremol-no. In order for it to not bind you have to make sure that the claw screws are adjusted to make sure that the shaft of the tremol-no is traveling perfectly within the mechanism. I have several of them in different guitars and have learned the hard way. You have to set the tension with the claw as normal but then you need to make minor adjustments checking all the time with your ears to hear that the shaft if moving smoothly and without impediment . Once it is then the system will work as intended.
Unfortunately you’ve just misunderstood how it works .
It’s an easy mistake to make.
Brad how long does the average set up take providing nothing is wrong like a twisted neck or something.
Setup with string change. 30 minutes maybe.
you have to tighten the springs or put heaver spring in or lock the screws and have no vibrato
What is tung oil?
well i had to back off my saddle on the low e string so far on my prs.. that i had to remove the sping of the screw to get the intonation right.. standart strings nyxl 46-10 all the others are basicly withib 1 mm but 2mm ahead
well i do like more relief than you do i think (basically my neck is dead flat without strings)
i did my setup the same way you do it..
Laying it down tuning it up as perfect as i can
Then i measure open sting, harmonic to check fibger position on the 12th and then pushed down on.. slightly rolling my finger to the top
then in the end tube everything up and repead to check if it was correct..
(My tuner is always on and the stomp switch is my kill signal switch so i can see whats up with my intonation when i normally play.. )
But if i look at my other guitars… the saddle of my prs seems cursed and a hint to far to the front mounted…
But one thing…. I really don’t like your tuner
Is it due an oil and filter change too?
Went ahead and changed the fuel filter and flushed the cooling system.
I had one of the trem locks on one mine of my guitars.
I also thought it was junk I took it off and threw it away !
i changed the gauge of strings on my ibanez prestige 7 string guitar.i removed one of the 4 springs and turned the claw screws about a half a turn in . the floyd is flat and the guitar plays perfect so you can change string gauge on a floyd if your patient enough to keep tuning the guitar for 20 minutes straight until the floyd settles i went from 11s to 9s thanx nice video
You don’t need to let the trek settle, most people waste a lot of time setting up Floyd’s, I want go into detail but with the right equipment like wedges etc.. it is a simple task.
On an Ibanez Prestige? What model tremolo is on it?
@@Schuylock hi its a floyd rose
@@DOWNFROMTHESKY-ln1ek Interesting. I figured most Ibby Prestige models came with some form of an Edge trem. What model do you have exactly?
@@Schuylock its an ibanez prestige rg 1527
The most rearward screw raises/levels/changes the pitch of the slide so it doesn’t bind
Throw a string tree or two on?
I enjoyed your rant, Dave of DWOFS also rants about the “ you need to get it in playing position folks” also I appreciate you and Dave and Uncle Doug above all others for helping me and entertaining me while I learn amps and guitar workbench stuff. This vid doesn’t help my fear of tremolo tho 😂
Yeah, Dave seems like an ok dude.
Thanks!
Thank you!
I thought you’re not supposed to adjust a tremolo height under string tension so you don’t damage the knife edges?
Your not supposed to. I think that came from the earlier Floyd's and Ibanez trems that had razor sharp edges on the bridge and relatively soft posts.
These modern bridges are a bit more robust with harder posts and the knife edges aren't as sharp.
I would still loosen the strings up a little first, but you really don't need to if you know what you're doing.
I bought a couple of Charvels over the past few years from Sweetwater, one of them with no extra setup (straight from factory) and another with a custom setup. I think something is off with Charvel's factory setup, as the one I got with no extra setup was way off in a similar way for the intonation and also neck relief. I now always recommend getting a new guitar setup by a luthier or oneself if so inclined.
I get that all the time, too. I'm with you about the position of the guitar when setting the intonation. I also can't see how it would affect tuning, either.
It will affect tuning, just not intonation
Im at 16:07 and think the wonky noise might be a spring or part of the tremol-no dragging in the cavity. Lets see what happens lol.
Does that silver stud slid up and down to allow you to bend notes.
Tremol Nos work great if you install them right and actually take the time to understand it.
At some point, I can tell exactly when some f-tard has made a critical forum post.
I think intonation should be set in playing position due to how you actually fret and apply pressure to the string, nothing to do with the scale length mid point.. You are 100% correct the distance is the same and the effect of gravity on relief is negligible. I am very picky about intonation and wouldnt want someone else to set it for me.. I dial it, in the playing position so that I play as in tune as possible given my unique variables haha. You do you brother!
I always wondered, why do some bridge saddles do the even "Stairs" look but occasionally you get one saddle that goes off the charts? Man, that hurt my fingers the way you used the allen key on the bridge height. 😁 When I worked for PRS I got a Tremonti as my two year employee guitar. Obviously the tech didn't test the tremelo. One of the springs was getting caught on some paint buildup in the trem cavity edge. It would make a loud creaking sound. I took a chisel and lightly scrapped it down. Also my neck pickup pot was DOA.
like you I REFUSE to alter saddle height, action, string height, or neck height, to adjust intonation unless its just way off, if all that is where I like it, no way do I sacrifice to attain perfect intonation, I am not having 1/8th" action whatever to get there. . . I have been known to shim a neck and raise bridge if that helps as I do like a more gisbon style string height off the body deck so I don't mind doing this, I prefer top mount floyds or any bridge for that matter but action and string height will be where I want it regardless...
Staggered machine heads to eliminate string trees just don't quite work well enough most of the time unless the headstock "drop" is a little bit more than standard.
What does work are Steinberger gearless heads.
No change horizon or vertical on intonation.
40:15 that piston needs a open ball bearing on the shaft, so it can rotate a little inside the tube
One of those bars they used for Floyd Rose would likely work the best over string trees
You don’t adjust the height of a floating bridge with the springs and strings fully tensioned. You will break the floating bolts. You can tell me all you want you have done it your whole life like that, and I’ll refute that argument with what my coworker told our foreman “that just means you have been doing this wrong your whole life”
This is not something that will be done a lot, you know, adjusting the height of the bridge. Kind of a one and done thing. A couple turns isn't going to hurt anything. You need to be able to check the actual string height and check the bends at full string tension, so it's either detune, turn the screws, tune back up, check, detune again, turn the screws again, tune back up again, etc. etc. etc. Or just turn the screws and be done with it.
So has Ibanez, and they make a hell of a guitar. How are you going to accurately adjust the guitar if you don't do it under tension? The steel will take it just fine. BTW tonewoods don't make a difference in an electric guitar either.
@@TheGuitologist It's certainly not something anyone is likely to ask you to do very often. If people pay you to work on their guitars I'd stop filming yourself doing it.
@@SaintFredrocks There's a pretty obvious way of temporarily removing tension. You don't have to remove the springs or anything.
@@michael1 Pretty obvious huh? Please share oh annoying one.🥱