Timing Belt Replacement How To - Toyota 4Runner 3.0 3VZE - Part 2
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- Опубліковано 30 тра 2016
- It's a good idea to replace the water pump, tensioner, and pulleys when you do the timing belt. The timing belt I used was a Mitsuboshi from this kit: amzn.to/2kySfQj
If you can't afford to do the whole kit, or don't need to, the belt is available much cheaper by itself.
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Best video/tutorial I have found for this job.. I appreciate all the time and detail you put into getting camera angles and explaining the procedure step by step. I used your video to change my timing belt and water pump on a 3.0 V-6 in a 94' 4Runner. Thanks again, man. It took a bunch of my time, but saved me a TON of money vs. The dealer or independant mechanic. You rock!!!
oh heck yeah. it is a time consuming process, but its worth it to save that money. Glad it helped!
Thanks again, did this today along w/ new Water pump, idler pulley, tensioner, and crank seal. Only real son-of-a-B was those two rear bolts on that middle idler pulley, used a wobble extension and some anger to get in there and break them free. Awesome DIY, made it real easy.
Cool thanks. Glad it helped
These series of videos are are invaluable!! I really appreciate you taking the time to post this!! Only advice I would add is with all this apart, go ahead and replace the water pump also. If it looks good now, in my experience as soon as you mess with any one of the belts the bearing on the Water pump will ware different and leak almost every time. Just my two cents...
Thank you James. I just finished procedures. Changed water pump, thermostat, timing belt, tensioner, component belts.
I ended up having to yank radiator bc I couldn't get crank pulleys off with bars, so I used a puller. I did slightly damage the transmission(?) radiator bc my pulley puller was a bit large, but I made sure to only slightly damage the fins and not the coolant channels. I haven't started it yet. Have a bit more to put together and the sun went down on me. I'll update this tomorrow and let y'all know how it went. Also...my belt had a different set of marks on it but I am confident I installed correctly (I hope).
Thanks for the outstanding tutorial James. You're a godsend. Cheers
nice, glad it helped. I look forward to the update.
By far best video for me! “Timed “ it all, and the marks were off, couple teeth jumped so this video helped me know how to redo the hydraulic tensioner as well as Everything else with tips to put belt on correctly so thank you very much for the video made. Also the tshirt made me laugh cause that’s me and my Dad😆
Your 2 videos on this Toyota 3.0 project are probably the best "How To" videos
I have seen on UA-cam EVER ! Great Job JemesonDIY.....You Rock !
LIKED/SUBSCRIBED !
Thank you! I appreciate that very much
One of the best instructional videos I have seen...and I've seen a lot of them.
Here's a Tip...Make sure you Replace the Crankshaft Cover (3 10mm bolts) before you tighten the Fan Pulley assembly down, so that you can get the Top of the Plastic Crank Cover properly situated under the Fan Pulley bracket!
(I didn't and it took me an extra 30 minutes after a lot of Swearing !) GREAT Video
Great video, but perhaps a new crankshaft seal was needed also as indicated by the apparent leak at 8:44?
Incredible video, definitely gonna have you saved for when im doing this job
Thanks for making my life much easier! Great job, and now rather than dreading this job I'm almost looking forward to it :) Way to go, and look forward to more of your work.
Yeah it's not a bad job. Not so frustrating like some tasks. Good luck
Great video, getting ready to do my wifes 3zve v6 3.0 truck just did gastank frame spray..
Dam I wish I had that much patience..made it look easy..good job
Great video, very helpful. I need some advice for my install. While installing the AISIN belt on my 2000 v6 camry, and was trying to line up the markings on one of the cam sprockets (the one close to firewall), the sprocket moved about 4 teeth counter-clock (it seems that it had a load on). Is it safe to turn the sprocket back to line up the marking on the sprocket with the line on the belt? Which direction should I turn it? Thank you in advance!
Very very helpful thanks for ur time and for posting, thanks again!
What an awesome how to video bro! Damn great job. Thank you!
Appreciate you man I subscribed and will coming to your page first from now on thanks again
Great attention to detail, thank you!
thanks
Your the smartest man on the net!!!!
GREAT VIDEO BRO
saved me a thousand bucks🤙
Excelente felicitaciones, muy bueno el video de mucha ayuda
забыл закрутить болт пластиковой защиты ремня. хорошо всё объясняет, молодец!
Excellent. Very informative.
very easy anderstandable thanks for so clear video ...
Glad it helped
Awesome video..thanks for posting!
Would a slip timing belt cause I have to cylinders not too fire?
4,5&6 are not firing. 95 4Runner v6 3.0
My 1990 4Runner didn't have the tensioner that you have shown here. It had a spring.
Was your engine made in 1992 or before? I believe that's the cutoff for the spring they started using the grenade style in 93 and older
Just followed the video, great job and glad you did this. I ended up removing tensioner pulley.I had a water pump leak so I replaced it, and while I had everything taken apart, I replaced all the belts, timing, alternator, a/c compressor, and power steering. I left the timing cover off to troubleshoot the leak, just in case it was leaking again. Do I need to reinstall the timing cover, what are the advantages/disadvantages? BTW-What tool do I need to keep the cam gears steady just in case I need to tighten them? Again, great job on the video, couldn't have done it without it.
Hey thanks for watching! Glad to hear it helped. I can't think of any advantage of leaving the timing cover off. You really don't want to risk something falling in there. Once you verify no leaks, I would put it back on. I use this tool amzn.to/2jrYh9a to hold the gears in place while removing or installing the cam bolts.
Nice job James, thanks
thank you for taking the time to say so
Officially been trying to get the lower cover to sit for hours. It just won’t line up. Everything else smooth and easy so far and I don’t see what the problem could be. Any tricks to get it in?
did the valves not hit the pistons when you turned the engines with the belt on?
Can you change the top pulley without moving the intake plenum? It looks like I can get in there. Mine is completely shot along with the tensioner pulley. I can spin them freely by hand. Im glad I bought all new timing components(pulleys,tensioner, timing belt,water pump) because my waterpump was bad anyways. Seems logical to change all of it at once. This video helped alot! thanks for uploading.
Yeah I think once you remove the two cam gears, you can then take off the back timing cover. Once the back timing cover is off, you will be able to remove that top pulley. Good luck
How about after pulling the grenade pin to tension the belt, is when you could turn the engine over 2 times to check your marks, that way if something is off, you don't have to go and remove the stuff you just put on? Just saving unnecessary steps. Also, stating torque specs would help.
Awesome video and very informative!! You seem like a very experienced mechanic. Do you have a link to the spanner wrench you use to hold the crank still?
I don't remember what I used. Probably a Matco 30 inch breaker bar
You make it look so easy bro
It's not a real hard one to do. But there are a lot of steps involved. A lot of time involved, especially if you've never done it before.
great video, helped me alot. Thanks
Thanks a lot, glad it helped.
Hey thanks for your unselfish time making this video - helped me out alot!
Thanks. Glad it helped
These 2 videos were a life saver!!! It was an easy process thanks AppalachianDIY!!! p.s. loved the t-shirt
Cool, glad that it helped you!
great videos, doing this today, have you ever changed the top center idler pulley? mine is rattling
yeah, i think you might have to pull the intake manifold to change that one. But I guess you'll find that out when you get in there
Nah, you can get the 4 12mm bolts just removing the back plate.
I just did mine yesterday.
Great video, thanks
Great video Sir, thank you
The radiator is only 4 bolts plus draining the cooling system, which if replacing the water pump you should need to do anyway. Gives you quite a bit more space to work with.
great video J
thanks!
awesome job thanks for sharing
thanks
subscribed! great video, how much more work is it to replace the water pump while you're in there with everything taken apart? is it just a few bolts and a simple swap?
Yes, it's that simple, just make sure you clean all of the old gasket material off. The thermostat is bolted to the water pump, so if you remove that, make sure to clean the gasket area as well before you reseal to ensure there is no leaks.
I just got done with water pump...went ahead and changed tensioner and timing belt while I was at it, as well as component belts and thermostat. If you have timing belt off may have well change water pump...bc if it goes you have to do it all over again anyway
is the crankshaft seal leaking?
Ah, okay thanks, good video by the way, have a good one.
Do you have a gasket on your engine cooling fan bracket pulley? I'm having the hardest time trying to find somewhere that sells one. I'm looking all over the internet to see examples, because I guess I'm going to have to make my own. I couldn't see in the video if you had one or not? Awesome job on the video, it's definitely helping me out!
Cooling fan bracket pulley? Sorry I'm not sure what you are referring to.
JamesonDIY Looks similar to the water pump, but connects to the fan. It's called a "fan bracket" in the service manual. It's at "9:37" in the video.
You are so helpful so I have decided to be your newest subscriber.
Unfortunately, there is no Advance Auto Parts near me. I think I will go with the Gates brand because according to the O'Reilly web site, the Gates belt has the timing marks. Thanks so much for the tip!
Because I have an early 3VZ-E engine, I have a spring tensioner instead of the hydraulic type. Do you have any special advice for doing the TB replacement on an engine with the spring tensioner?
Thanks in advance for your kind assistance.
The install of the belt is the same. Just keep all the belt slack at the tensioner, as with any timing belt. Put the belt on the tensioner pulley last. If you have to, to make it easier, you can leave the spring off until the belt is on. Most timing belt installation is really the same. Route the belt on the tensioner last. Keep all the slack at the tensioner. There should be no slack anywhere between the cams or crank. Line up the marks. Thats about it. Thanks for watching the video. Glad it helped.
Can you please tell me where you bought your timing belt?
Hey there, I've been using this video as a reference for my own timing belt replacement on a 1994 Toyota 4runner v6 3.0L with spring tension rather than hydrolic. Both of my cam sprockets have the exact same timing marks that yours have, and my crank has the correct timing marks on the top and on the engine, but my crank does not have a dimple to reference the belt placement off of. What do I do?
Sorry for the late reply. Did you already figure it out? I havent seen that too often, but that's a good reason to check your timing marks before you remove the old belt. You can make your own marks, if you run in to this situation
I was in this position so I found that I had to put the crank pulley and timing cover back on to check the marks. Not too big of deal.
Thank you very much for the how-to! There were some Toyota specific questions I had that you answered for me. I think you ought to point out that lining up those arrows on the belt is optional. That work and time you spent on the Crank lining up the arrow then spinning it all over to TDC is just unnecessary. All a person needs to worry about is making sure the pulley marks are lined up with the timing mark, where the belt is has no effect on the job, it's just another hassle.
Yes not necessary but helpful in demonstrating to an unexperienced person.
Totally agree with you there, for demo purposes you can't have too many visual cues for beginners. Thanks again for the video though, my engine had a power steering leak spraying oil all over and I had no idea what I was looking at under all the grease.
Good job
Good job thank you .
Good job.
Nice work
thanks
I want to try and change my water pump and timing chain
Thank you. Big help.
thanks
I got a new belt for my 4runner but it doesn't have the marks on it for crank and cams, will it make a difference? Also thank you for making these videos.
You can make your own marks before you pull the belt. Just make them in the same location as in the video. Then count the teeth and transfer marks to new belt
What do I do if my 3.0 VZE is completely out of time?
I did my the same but seems 1/2 toot is off look just like your and a get no power on hwy
If I try to change my belt (1993 Toyota 4runner) and have any problems can I text you?.
When aligning the marks did you have to check #1 cylinder to make sure it was on TDC?
No, when you initially align the marks, before removing the belt, you are setting it to TDC on #1. What makes this belt easy is, once you align the marks on the engine, you only really need to pay attention to the marks on the belt. Get the belt marks placed on the appropriately marked timing gear tooth, and there is no way to do it wrong. Hope that helps
Great video! Thank you. I just finished a head gasket replacement on my 3.0. It runs like it's way out of time. I took it apart this morning and all of my marks line up and my no. 1 piston is top dead. Do you have any ideas?
did it run like that before?
JamesonDIY no it ran great. I'm wondering if no. 1 cylinder is top dead and the distributor is also on no. 1 electrode, is it 180° out?
Did you get it figured out? I'd say if it ran fine before then you did something wrong. You don't even need to mess with the distributor to do this job. Just line up the marks, leave all the slack at the tensioner. Release the tensioner. Then turn the engine over a few times by hand and double check marks
JamesonDIY I ordered a fuel pressure regulator. I'm pretty sure that's it. I'm fairly certain that everything is right and it just sat for a long time efore I started the project and iv got a few bugs to work out. Thank you for asking and when I get it in I'll let you know own how it goes
Your video is great! What brand of belt did you use? Where did you get it? I went to my local Toyota parts department. Neither the Toyota brand belt nor another belt sold at AutoZone (Dayco brand) had any alignment marks. Without marks I am not sure I can do the job correctly.
It's a mitsuboshi. They are the OE brand supplier. We use them at work and I believe we get them from World Pac. But that's not open to the public. You can buy them on Amazon. You can also try Advance Auto Parts. They own World Pac so maybe they carry some of the same brands. Gates is a good brand too. They might have the marks. OReilly sells Gates. Good luck.
Thanks for the amazing video, got me thru mine no problem... well, kinda... when you set the TB on the top cams initially, do you have the timing marks set slightly AHEAD of the mark on back? so when you crank the cam counterclockwise for tension, it lines back up? I just did mine and when the crankshaft on bottom is at tdc, the cams are one tooth back... I'm about to pull it all apart and set it again before I add coolant to the whole thing again.. any help would be wonderful! thanks again, great video work!
Yeah, well typically I line them up with the marks initially. But if I need to move them slightly forward, then yes I will do that, then move them back again to line up with the mark. You can play with the position as you need, so long as the way it ends up is with no slack anywhere except the tensioner, and the marks are aligned. Glad it helped, I was trying to be as thorough as I could.
All done now! I set both cams one tooth forward of the marks, aligned the belt, then cranking counterclockwise to set tension brought the marks back to TDC. Hopefully it'll help someone else, also for any diy hackers out there, this was a super easy jig I made to hold the cams to tighten the camshaft bolt. Thanks again, mate!
_lh3.googleusercontent.com/jkM5maaewMJX8C71y7z0GFH62DwH_EdKqcIrgu4dxRglmDQQeZKoltdr9qK6trKvNc9aVf2Azg_
cool man, good job. The link doesn't work. I'd be interested to see what you made. Thanks
So do you tighten down the Allen Bolt for the tensioner after pulling the tension pin, or right after assuring the timing is correct and the marks are still aligned? And is there a torque spec for it?
I just did one the other day. The torque was 26 ft pounds. You tighten the allen bolt first. You pull the pin when you are certain the timing is correct.
Nice CAMERA WORK, man. (You must have trashed it!) I'm kind of struggling to understand why you didn't pull the radiator out of your way. Great set of videos, in any case. Thanks.
I didn't feel the need to pull the radiator. The only reason to pull it would be for clearance to use a puller on the harmonic balancer. Using 2 pry bars works well and don't have to remove radiator to use them. The only thing the radiator was really in the way of, was the camera.
so tell me something please when taking of the old belt and ready to put on the new belt all u have to do is line up the cams and crank with the marks from factory lines is that it????
Yeah, then release the tensioner, rotate the engine over a couple times and double check timing marks
The passenger camshaft sprocket is installed backwards. 13:29 That's why you weren't able to see the Timming arrow on the sprocket and there's a lip on the sprocket to keep the belt from coming off when its installed correctly.
How long does this job take
Yeah you are the boss
Thanks buddy
What are the Correct Torque requirements for the Crank Pulley Bolt and the Cam Pulley bolts ? I can't find a list for the Toyota 3VZE 3.0 T100 engine.
Thanks again !
Screww Googlle Crank pulley is 181 ft lb, and cam pulley bolts 80 ft lb according to all Data
Thanks a Bunch again for the Fast reply !
You rock Jameson !
Hey James, I have a question. I have been following your guide to replace my timing belt. So far so good until I go to tighten the crank pulley bolt. Torque specs are pretty high so I made the mistake of holding the cam gear in place to stop the engine turning over. That caused my belt to slip on the crank gear. Now I'm pulling it back apart to reset it all.
How do you suggest I torque it down? My impact is too big to fit though I could remove the radiator. Or should I find a tool to hold the pulley in place?
The correct way would be to get a special tool to hold the flywheel in place while you use a torque wrench on the crank bolt. Another option is to remove the radiator so you could fit your impact in there.
@@AppalachianDIY I ended up using the cam holder tool on the crank pulley. It fits in it perfectly and can sit against the frame rail. Not ideal but it worked! Thanks for the great videos.
Nice!
Hey James what kind of RTV are you using on the that water outlet on #2 idler pulley is it Ultra Grey?
S Wright Grey Permatex
Cool thanks. I've just been wreaking my brain with this, I'm doing a lot of gaskets on mine, cam, water pulleys, and such and have been using ultra black, the FSM says use toyota fpig, but a lot are saying ultra black and grey do the same job.
S Wright Yeah there's a lot of various opinions about Rtv,, but always use grey Permatex or Honda bond on everything at home and at work.
JamesonDIY
Thanks James, I'm thinkin it's good, I never used to worry about this and never had problems. appreciated.
Do you suppose to change those camshaft or crankshaft shield too ?
??
super good!
thx
I noticed that you kind of just gave a squeeze on the impact wrench to tighten the crankshaft bolt. I am about to make a holder out of angle iron and use a torque wrench set at 184 ft lbs. I read somewhere that some impact wrenches only put about 100 ft lbs on and some put 300 ft lbs. Seems like a big range. I also read about people having their crank bolt come loose and destroying the engine. Any thoughts? By the way, your video was indespensible for the job, I almost out of the woods.
Future Aztec A torque wrench is the ideal way to do it. You got the right idea with the engine holder. When I did this job at home, I was using a small compressor with very little air flow. So when I went to work I tightened it more with the impact, and big commercial compressor. I would always recommend to people to torque any critical bolt. I pretty much never torque these crank bolts though, because I know my gun, and have been doing this a long time. But yes, a destroyed engine is quite possible, if that bolt comes loose.
I have had people bitch and complain about these engines about reliability and a bit of a pain to work on.
Try working on any front wheel drive car. Especially Ford, Dodge, or Nissan.
Try removing the transmission to diagnose a leak inside the bell housing. Replace the seal and check torque converter ring that sits against the seal. Replace that and check measurements. Now try PUTTING IT BACK IN!!!
A pro can do a trans pull and replace and put everything back together an have it running and driving in 5-6 hours. This is with a lift.
Most average people in a parking lot will take 2 or 3 days to do all of this. And sometimes have to take it all back apart and put it back together AGAIN!!!
Now pull and fix or replace your 4 runner auto tranny. Bet it took you WAY LESS STEPS AND TIME!
This is even including the fact you have to disconnect your front an rear shafts and disconnect and drop your transfer case first. Still much easier.
Great video, I have a couple of questions when you rotated the cams to take the slack out of the new belt is there a issue with the timing marks being off ?. And what did you use the cam puller tool for ?. Again awesome video,
No issue with the marks. Thats the great thing about theses belts. If you get the t-belt that has the markings, you have a lot more freedom to plays with the cams and not worry about the engine timing marks as much. Use the marks on the engine as a reference of course. Line up all the marks before you pull the old belt off. When you are installing the new belt, as long as it has the marks like mine, you can almost forget about the marks on the engine. I showed the whole process in the video, in case the viewer did not get a belt with the printed markings. If the belt does not have markings, you would need to proceed like I did in the video. Line up the marks, slightly rotate the cam to get the slack out. Put all the slack at the tensioner, etc etc. Its hard to say in words, but the video shows it pretty well. But if you've never done one before, make sure you get a belt with the marks, it will save you a lot of stress and time.
Cam puller? Its been a long time since I made this video, not sure what you mean. I had a crank pulley puller that I couldn't use because it was too long. I may have had a cam pulley holder, but Im not sure if I used it. You can use a wrench or ratchet to rotate the cams, which I what I believe I did in the video
Thanks for the reply, just one quick ? so when taking the slack out of the timing belt is the dot on the back of the timing cover still have to be lined up with the line of the timing belt and the mark on the cam gear?. thanks again
Tom Lowe ultimately all the marks will line up, when you're making adjustments don't worry too much about the marks. You can line up all the marks, take the slack out by adjusting cams, and recheck marks. But like I said, if you get the timing belt with printed marks, it will take the guess work out of whether or not you are right on. Either way, rotate the engine over a few times by hand afterward to double check the marks. If by chance it's a tooth off, it will be obvious
Thanks James, I adjusted the left cam and all 3 marks lined up, I got to right cam and got all the slack out, the mark on the cam and the mark on the back timing cover lined up but the line on the belt was off to the left, should I be concerned, I also checked the crankshaft for proper alignment it was fine. I guess if all the engine marks line up will I be fine. Sorry to keep bugen you but I'm located in a very rural area in Wisconsin and the local mechanic is 25 miles away. Tom
Tom Lowe the lines on the belt may not lineup exactly with the marks, but you should be able to line up all the marks on the engine parts, if that makes sense. The marks on the belt will coincide with the marks on the crank and cam gears. And the marks on the gears will line up with the engine marks, but it may appear that one is slightly off. Rotate the engine over and recheck the marks on the engine
hey changed all timing components , timing belt was walking off at idler, still does it after changing belt, idler, tensioner ,water pump, center bearing. its eating belt up on back off fan cover . any suggestions
Did you place the circular plate on the crankshaft in the right direction? If you put that on wrong, it will eat the belt up. If that's on correctly, what I would do is remove the upper timing cover, and start it up. Let it run, and watch the belt to see if you can see what it's doing.
yeah plate is on curve side out. running it just rides against fan cover. I'm going to try taking apart and doing over . other motors with this problem is to much tension on belt but with hydraulic tensioner it wouldn't seem that would be problem. I will also try a different belt , it came with a kit from ebay, which nothing else in kit worked . I only used belt it may have been to short. I had to back the tensioner pulley way off to get belt on.
Hi how much is the measurement
To my disappointment the Gates belt has no timing marks. Therefore, the Toyota, Dayco and Gates belts for my year engine have no marks. I plan to make timing marks on my old belt (before removal ) and then transferring the marks to the new belt. Do you think my plan will work? Thanks again!
Yes that works too. I use to do that when I first started learning to do timing belts. As long as you count the teeth on the old and new belts exactly. It will work the same as having pre-printed marks on the belt. That is strange that yours has no marks. I thought all of the 3.0 belts did. Good luck.
Did you find a belt with timing marks? I got a mitsuboshi belt because the description said that it had timing marks, but it didn't have timing marks.
Can you replace water pump only? With out removing belt?
matthew placencia No, the belt has to come off to replace the water pump
My screw on my water outlet broke off should I replace the whole belt idler pulley or try to get the screw off
Cristobal Perez what did you decide to do?... #muscleman
jamaicamania I used a tap and tapped it out and got a new screw 🙏
Great video of Part 1 and Part 2. I've been referencing this video the entire time. I'm remote and this has been a lifesaver. I've gotten everything off except the timing belt guide on the crankshaft pulley gear. Does it just come off or is there a trick to removing it? I don't want to damage it by using a tool to force it off. Thanks again.
Charlton Vaughan No trick to it. it's probably just stuck. Maybe some gentle force from a screwdriver
Thanks so much! I will try that now. Just didn't want to possibly damage it.
How long did it take you to do this job I have a 1993 Toyota pick up v6 out of no were it dint wanna turn on i chance the tps an nothing check mass air flow sensor an nothing still back fires an if it start the idle won't go pass 2.5k rpms an my truck gets hot quick an headers glowing red so I took of my cat an turn it on still rpms won't go pass 2.5rpms an hearders still bright red an I check my timing an it was of a bit so I fix it still the same so my buddy said it might be the timing belt he said maybe a bad belt or old tensioner maid it skip a tooth is that possible ? An if so will that make my truck run rough an bad idle an bad fuel per miles an get bright red headers an back fire? Any body got idea please help am thinking of doing the timing belt but before I do this I wanna make sure timing belt could do all that to my truck if it skip a tooth ?
If the timing belt is off a tooth, it could cause it to run pretty badly. It could also be that the crank or cam gear keyway has worn out. That's pretty common on these. If the t-belt tensioner is bad, you'll likely hear a pretty loud noise from the front of the engine when it's running. As far as the hot exhaust, that doesn't sound related to timing, but still if the timing is off, it should be corrected first. Excessively hot exhaust and backfires usually means the engine is running lean. That could be caused by a lot of things. Stuck EGR valve could do it. Those trucks are known for that. Common problems on these trucks are: Crank and cam gear keyways wear out, Mass Air Flow sensor malfunction, EGR sticking, Broken valve springs, o2 sensor failure.
Timing belt alignment is easy enough to check. All you have to do is pull off the upper timing cover. Turn the crank over by hand (wrench) until the pointer aligns with the mark on the crank pulley. Then check your camshaft alignment marks. They should be aligned with the marks on the back part of the timing cover.
It takes me about 3 hours to replace this timing belt, but I've changed a lot of these. Expect it to take a lot longer if you've never done it before.
Okay so today I took of the uper cover it was a bit of but the worst thing was that the belt super loss an the belt was old an dry so I just order new timing belt kit with the tensioner tomorrow morning am going to replace it not as bad as I tho it would be . I have one more question so my buddy said I needed to tite the cams so when I take of the old belt cams won't move ?? How would I do that so when I take of the belt will the cam spring baq or move because there no belt an tension to hold it or would it not move ? Thanks for the fast reply an your vid help 👍🏼 so I've subscribe
The cams will move. They tend to spring back in certain positions. It's not a big deal though. They shouldn't move when you take off the belt, but when you're installing the new belt, they might move. Just use a wrench on the cam gears to move them back into place
So I change the belt no more baq Fire or hot header but the truck still does the same it turns on an it turn of it dies I change the idle control sensor an nothing on what oms should it be on ? I pretty much check everything an it's fine how do I check the egr. Thanks in advance
Try disconnecting the vacuum hose from the EGR valve, and plugging the hose. See if the problem goes away. Also check for other vacuum leaks if you haven't already
have you had any problems with your transmission, not going into overdrive?
When its cold, it doesn't like to go into overdrive. But that only last a few minutes/miles. It warms up quickly. Usually on a cold morning, it will only happen the first time I get up to speed.
Oh, do you think it's best to have a Toyota Thermostat 180° or some other brand with same specs? How about Coolant Temp Sensor?
I try to use OEM if possible for some things, but certain things don't matter as much. Like that temp sensor for example you can buy a BWD from OReilly and it has a lifetime warranty. I would probably do that. As far as thermostats go, I have had cheap parts store brands fail quickly. I would use the OEM on my own car.
Thanks for your feedback. Have a great day
Thank you for posting such an invaluable video. I have a question though. 13:46 your right timing is not completely dead on with the mark but half a tooth off. Is that normal? Mine is like that and what you see at 13:46 is what is considered lined up?
How is your engine running? I'm trying to figure out my poor running engine problem.. Please reply.. I would appreciate it.
yes on these it might look like they are half a tooth or a tooth off. Also I didnt get a good camera angle so that might make it look a little more off. Either way yes, it will sometimes look a little off. If your t-belt has the printed lines and you lined them all up as I did, you really dont need to pay attention to the marks on the timing cover (when installing the belt). Some people do it differently as others have stated. If I have a belt with the lines, I use them. In the video I went to extra effort to point out the timing marks, but when doing this job at work, I dont go through all that. My engine runs great. I do these timing belts regularly at work.
Did yours only start running bad after you did the timing belt? If so, I would recommend pulling the upper cover off and setting TDC to check the timing. If it ran bad before there could be a number of things. Im very familiar with these engines. Let me know if it was running bad before or not. Ill do my best to help.
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Is there a way to do this without removing the harmonic balancer??
Not if you're replacing the belt.
@@AppalachianDIY I'm not replacing the belt, just doing a head gasket job. But I just got the balancer off to do the timing anyways, after I posted that comment lol
What do I do if the new belt doesn't have the arrow markers on it?
Read through the comments or check out part 3
God bless u
what if the timing belt i have doesnt have the line marks how do allign??
The marks are there to assist you, but not necessary. You line everything up just like in the video. If you're worried about it, you can mark the old belt before removal, just like the belt in my video is marked. Then transfer marks to new belt by counting teeth on the timing belt
is it a must to change the cam seals and crank seals??
No. you dont need to. If they're leaking you should, because it will be more labor later if you don't
What about the water pump?
Left over parts are proof that i made it better
Можно на русском снять или перевести.просто не могу попасть метки не так тянуть стал после замены грм. очень нужно мне это видео на русском.зарание спасибо
gutentight in german means female virgin! lol
lol
You NEVER turn the camshafts nor the crankshaft counterclockwise! Horrible....
It’s a non interference engine
Well, can you give me the data where it says that you can turn them CC? I will very much appreciate it.