This video for the WIN! At 12:30 am I was able to finally call it a night. When you said the arm is suppose to be level I looked at mine and laughed my ass off 🤦🏻♂️. My garage door is no longer a violent earthquake while closing. Much appreciated, thank you sir!!! 💯
This Video For The Win At 12:30 am I Was Able To Finally Call It a Night. When You Said The Arm Is Suppose To Be Level I Looked At Mine And Laughed My Ass Off. My Garage Door Is No Longer a Violent Earthquake While Closing Much Appreciated Thank You Sir Amen Just Getting The Drive Arm Correct Helps Alot In Smoothing Out The Operation.
This Video For The Win At 12:30am I Was Able To Finally Call It a Night. When You Said The Arm Is Suppose To Be Level I Looked At Mine And Laughed My Ass Off My Garage Door Is No Longer a Violent Earthquake While Closing Much Appreciated Thank You Sir Amen Just Getting The Drive Arm Correct Helps a lot In Smoothing Out The Operation.
I like that trick with the wires twisted together by the drill I used it today on two openers after watching this video and it worked beautifully! Not too many take pride in their work like you do keep up the quality work and informative videos big Thanks from Cincinnati Ohio!
+kevin eustice I've always had this thing for clean wires, and by twisting them they look cool, are easier to work with and I'd rather have 1 clean twisted group of wires coming back to the motorhead than 2 loose ones, I don't always do it like that but most of the time I do, thanks for watching Kevin, glad you enjoy the video's!!
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. I am from Japan and very very few people DIY garage door. Your youtube video gave me a lot of courage to make one!
Im going to build a one piece for my carport transformation. I was going to use mechanical arms until I saw this video. I didn't know you could use an overhead opener on a one piece. Thanks for the details.
Thanks. I really like your videos. I just spent parts of two days wrestling with a Genie rubber belt unit. The neighbor stopped by and mentioned that his installer, years ago said the rail on his screw drive shouldn't be level. I couldn't figure out why...until I saw your video. Probably also explains why the track buckles when the unit tries to close the door. I wish your company was closer to Los Angeles, I'd let you finish the install. Yesterday, I learned about spring adjustment from your spring video. I've replaced these springs more than a few times over the years, matching the old springs when one broke. But I never really understood the process. I'm impressed by how these springs actually work--wish I knew this years ago, I could've used the concept on other projects. This morning I started out doing exactly what I learned from you, and it worked...
Thanks for all the great info. I have a decent garage door mechanism. Everything is done so sloppy. It stopped working a year ago. I’m going to rewire it and hopefully it works, it’s not that old.
I like the wire tricks. I've seen 'em plenty of times before, but it's one of those things that you forget unless you do it all the time. One of the many differences between a pro and an amateur. ;) At first I had concerns about doing that to an antenna, but I think it probably doesn't even have a measurable effect in a case like this.
Wow, I can't believe that the previous installer left the original wall button up! Usually I keep the old wall buttons from jobs, mostly because I hoard too much crap (lol), but if a customer wants a second wall button by the door, I just say "I got a bunch of used ones, I'll throw it in for free." And a lot of people like that. :-)
Yea and he used a Liftmaster button, anytime you hook up a wall button with a circuit brd on it, it draws some power from the machine because it's a lighted button and it doesn't always happen but it could cause the machine to not function properly. The guy should have just used a contact button.
Great job brother. I'm glad I grew up a generation or two ago, we know how to do things for ourselves and save a few bucks. Nice work. Thanks for posting a very helpful video. God bless.
Great job, Mike! We don't get many one-pce doors out in the east coast, but a GDO install is a GDO install… Good call removing the existing angle from the ceiling, definitely going to do wonders for reducing vibration. And ahh! The classic "Garage Door Control" button. I call them the pods, haha! Take care!
This is the video where I learned the drill trick, at first I thought it was stupid that was until I went to install my first set of sensors… it makes everything to much easier
Approximately how many millimeters, centimeters, should the motor chain rail be separated from the part where you put the screw with the nut at the beginning of the door Mike? Good
I just built and installed a 7'x10' one-piece door with the E-9000 hardware on my new one car garage. Works good manually. All the openers mentioned in this video and comments look to be discontinued. What brand/model do you recommend now at current 8/2023?
Hey there, when doing a one piece metal door, how high above the top of the door (assuming you’re mounting the bracket on top of the door) should the rail be? How much higher off the floor should the rail be at the motor vs at the header? Right now I have 10.5”. Between the top of the door and the bottom of the rail, and I have 95” off the floor for bottom of rail at the header and 93” off the floor from the bottom of rail at the motor. When I open the door, at its highest, I have roughly 5.5” between the top of the door and the bottom of the rail. This leaves a decently steep angle for the J arm to the garage with the garage all the way open (tilted forward slightly). With the garage all the way closed the J arm angle has a small amount of fall toward the door. Just trying to see if this is fine or if it should lower the rail or motor or both, etc. Your video helped me greatly already so thank you!
at the header the opener should be roughly 8-10 inches above the door and when the door is open there really isn’t a measurement… just make sure the drive arm on the long part is basically level, the part of the arm that attaches to the door can be higher than the curved part but not the other way around.
I followed your video on the 1 piece wood door build with the E900 hardware and it's working GREAT! Looking to put an opener on it now. I have a buddy who has a Lift Master 1265-267 Professional. Chain driven, 1/2 HP, single solid rail. Do you think this would be good for my door? I know you mentioned in comments below a 8160, 8163 so I wanted to get professional opinion before I make a mistake.
Obviously your talking about a used machine because they no longer make the 1265 nor any of the machines i mentioned as well. The 1265 is a good heavy duty machine that should work great on a 1pc door, they can be a bit noisy if not adjusted correctly but for the most part great machines. These days I would probaly go with an 81602WB… but that’s because it’s all i’m allowed to sell here in taxifornia that’s a decent enough opener to work a 1pc door for many yrs.
Hi dear Mike. To attach hardware to a concrete column, what screws and plugs should be used? And what measurements? Because the 6 pins that come, I imagine, are only for wooden gates and wooden columns. I am going to fix it to a concrete column and the gate will be made of aluminum. I also want to ask you because, as I have told you, here in Mexico there are no spare parts or anything from the Holmes brand that I bought in ft. lauderdale. The double hook for the springs can be used if only one spring is used, I think this because it may be light and do not need the 2 springs, just buy the supports for 2. Thank you very much Amigo.
The measurements will be the same as any other door. 20” down from the top plus the thickness of the door. There are a huge variety of concrete fasteners available so pick a good one. I would start at the lightest pin setting and go from there, the lightest setting is closest to the plate. I agree you might only need one spring per side but you can always add a second one if needed. 👍🏽
@@ALLProGarageDoors Thank you very much dear Mike, I had not seen your response, I am very sorry, it was my fault, it accumulated with more emails and I did not see it, I am sorry. Now, suggest me a screw size to adjust the tappets. I'm thinking of putting some expansion tappets on it. Is that okay? Thank you very much, I apologize, blessings Mike.
I have a 1 1/4 horse opener but its' a belt drive wondering about boxing it up and sending it back cause of the belt drive all their other lightweight openers are chain type...Fricken amazon does that random shit...Now I believe I have a 250 dollar boat anchor for my 7x 15 one piece.. WDYT? Either way I think I'm screwed it said it would open a 600 pound plus door?
They always advertise openers as if the horse power is the main thing and it’s not, a third hp chain drive can outlift most openers because the components in the driveline are better, full chain, 1pc rail sometimes even a dual sprocket… those are nice 👍🏽. the openers withsectioned rails flex… then the belt flexes and it sets of the electronic sensitivity, the motors can definitely lift heavy doors but… its the herky jerky action of a 1 pc door that causes problems.
This video has been helpful and I'm hoping I could get confirmation. On my single panel door, I have a 8ft ceiling and the door comes within 1.5 inches of the rail. Will levelling the rail/arm reduce the shaking and shimmying that happens when operating the opener?
Not necessarily, if your hinges and springs are old they will allow the door to shimmy and shake. Leveling the drive arm can help alot with the initial downward start though because if the drive arm is not right the door will buck hard against the rail of the opener.
Thanks for the response. What you stated regarding the bucking is what I experienced after installing this opener and it was a difficult release. Is there any maintenance on the springs or anything else that I can do? I'll definitely be Leveling the rail.
Have you made any videos on removing or fixing dents in garage doors? Mine must be a first gen door. I don't see ways to make adjustments as I saw in your other video.
I am also installing a single piece door. Instructions say the motor is supposed to be tilted down. Should it be horizontal? everything here talking about drive arm being level?
Hey is that why you put the lift arm in backwards to what the openers malefactors tell you to do it with the bent portion hooking to the trolley instead of the straight part?
@@ALLProGarageDoors well in your video it's the other way the straight part attached to the top of the one piece door? I'm not sure how it would work at all the other way just pull the 2x4 off the door?
Thanks, are most garage door openers compatible with flat garage doors; I have a 7 ft. by 16 ft. flat door. Genie told me that their model 7055 would not be compatible with my flat door. Can't figure out why. Bob
Simple answer is because Genie machines basically suck. The trick to getting the right opener on a flat door is to stay away from the big box store model openers... the long rails have to be chopped into 3-4 sections in order to fit into a box that you can carry out of the store and although the motors can handle the load, the 3-4 piece rails can't. Flat doors tend to bounce and a weak rail will flex and between the bouncing and flexing the sensitivity of the motor trips and refuses to open or close. What you need is a liftmaster chain drive with a 1 piece rail. Chain drives are quiet, durable, low maintenance and can easily handle a rough working flat door. A Liftmaster may cost you more up front but in the long run 10-15 yrs down the road they turn out to be a bargain. you will go thru 2-3-4 genie's for one Liftmaster because the components can't handle what the motor puts out, you need an opener that has solid, durable components not plastic components with an over sized motor but most importantly is a machine with a solid 1 piece rail. Hope that helps.
I could use your masterful advice, I need to install a garage door opener at home and I have 15' x 7' Aluminum 1-Piece Trackless (Sidesprings & Hinges) Garage door. What brand, make, model would you recommend?
Well hello once again Noel...I would recommend the Liftmaster #8075. It's a dual sprocket chain drive with a chain spreader so it's pretty quiet and extremely durable. If you wanted a machine with all the bells and whistles you could go with a Liftmaster #8550 belt drive...but you have to make sure your door is perfectly balanced and stays that way otherwise the belt drives have problems with the motion of the door, normally I don't recommend belt drives on a 1pc door but since yours is aluminum it should be ok. Both of these machines are sweet.
Thanks so much man, how much does a Liftmaster 8075 go for normally and who sells them? Is there an equivalent unit I can get from Lowe's or Home Depot. Thanks for the time and effort I really appreciate it...
Not sure about equivalent models from retail stores but the #8075 usually goes for about $389.00 Installed or $229.00 uninstalled. the #8550 goes for $519.00 installed or $359.00 uninstalled. Sometimes the price can look expensive but their not considering how long they last and how little maintenance they need, in the long run say 10-15-20 yrs down the road you will have saved because the lousy brands will fail after 5 yrs and you'll end up buying another one. If your going to sell the house in a few yrs then just about anything will do. You can get either one from a Liftmaster dealer.
I have a one piece garage door. I have a low ceiling in my garage. When the door is nearest the ceiling there's only a 4" clearance. There is no existing rail as the garage is manual lift. Would I be able to mount the rail flush with the ceiling? I tried to google this but I couldn't find a straight answer.
I would back mount the opener. open the door and then mount the opener right above where the door stops and use a longer drive arm. they work great like that.
What’s the difference between a section garage door opener and a 1 piece garage door opener? Everywhere I go they say I can’t use the opener for my 1 piece garage door.
Chain drives are built more for 1 pc doors, belt drives have too much flex and big box store openers are broken down into way too many pieces to have any strength. Get a Liftmaster #8160wb or #8163...keep your 1pc door balanced and painted and you should be good to go! 👍🏽👍🏽
Bret Jorgensen The belt drives have problems lifting as well as closing a 1pc door, they might work ok for a short time but on a double car wooden door they set off the sensitivity of the machine. 1 pc doors bounce a bit as they open and sometimes that can cause the opener problems. On a single car light 1pc door they are fine.
This video for the WIN! At 12:30 am I was able to finally call it a night. When you said the arm is suppose to be level I looked at mine and laughed my ass off 🤦🏻♂️. My garage door is no longer a violent earthquake while closing. Much appreciated, thank you sir!!! 💯
Amen! just getting the drive arm correct helps alot in smoothing out the operation.
This Video For The Win
At 12:30 am I Was Able To Finally Call It a Night.
When You Said The Arm Is Suppose To Be
Level I Looked At Mine And Laughed My Ass Off. My Garage Door
Is No Longer a Violent Earthquake While Closing
Much Appreciated Thank You Sir
Amen Just Getting The Drive Arm Correct Helps Alot
In Smoothing Out The Operation.
This Video For The Win At 12:30am I Was Able To Finally Call It a Night.
When You Said The Arm Is Suppose To Be
Level I Looked At Mine And Laughed My Ass Off
My Garage Door Is No Longer a Violent Earthquake While Closing
Much Appreciated Thank You Sir
Amen Just Getting The Drive Arm Correct Helps a lot In Smoothing Out The Operation.
I like that trick with the wires twisted together by the drill I used it today on two openers after watching this video and it worked beautifully! Not too many take pride in their work like you do keep up the quality work and informative videos big Thanks from Cincinnati Ohio!
+kevin eustice I've always had this thing for clean wires, and by twisting them they look cool, are easier to work with and I'd rather have 1 clean twisted group of wires coming back to the motorhead than 2 loose ones, I don't always do it like that but most of the time I do, thanks for watching Kevin, glad you enjoy the video's!!
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. I am from Japan and very very few people DIY garage door. Your youtube video gave me a lot of courage to make one!
Wow! Thank you 🙏🏻 genkinaotoko!! Good luck to you on all of your DIY projects.
Signed in just to like your video. Like the way you do it the right way, without shortcuts.
Im going to build a one piece for my carport transformation. I was going to use mechanical arms until I saw this video. I didn't know you could use an overhead opener on a one piece. Thanks for the details.
Thanks. I really like your videos. I just spent parts of two days wrestling with a Genie rubber belt unit. The neighbor stopped by and mentioned that his installer, years ago said the rail on his screw drive shouldn't be level. I couldn't figure out why...until I saw your video. Probably also explains why the track buckles when the unit tries to close the door. I wish your company was closer to Los Angeles, I'd let you finish the install. Yesterday, I learned about spring adjustment from your spring video. I've replaced these springs more than a few times over the years, matching the old springs when one broke. But I never really understood the process. I'm impressed by how these springs actually work--wish I knew this years ago, I could've used the concept on other projects. This morning I started out doing exactly what I learned from you, and it worked...
Will Nettles glad the videos help out!!
I realize I'm pretty randomly asking but does anybody know of a good website to watch newly released movies online?
My friend I have never seen anything like this I learned so much from watching your install you are indeed a master of your trade! Thanks so much!
Thank you for watching Noel, hopefully this vid can help some folks out.
Really enjoy your attention to detail.
Thanks for all the great info. I have a decent garage door mechanism. Everything is done so sloppy. It stopped working a year ago. I’m going to rewire it and hopefully it works, it’s not that old.
If it doesn't work let me know the symptoms and we'll figure it out.
I have two doors like this. I didn’t think I could use automatic openers with them. Cool 😎
You absolutely can, if installed properly the right machine will work just fine... choose wisely!
Great video! Awesome techniques! Thank you!
Thanks brother!
That opner looks high quality and will last a long time! I like the pin trick thank you!
+Everything home repair ....Thanks for watching, it is a very durable machine, we call them "Bulldozers". They work great on heavy doors.
I like the wire tricks. I've seen 'em plenty of times before, but it's one of those things that you forget unless you do it all the time. One of the many differences between a pro and an amateur. ;)
At first I had concerns about doing that to an antenna, but I think it probably doesn't even have a measurable effect in a case like this.
l337pwnage ...i agree about the antenna, probably doesn't matter one bit.
Wow, I can't believe that the previous installer left the original wall button up! Usually I keep the old wall buttons from jobs, mostly because I hoard too much crap (lol), but if a customer wants a second wall button by the door, I just say "I got a bunch of used ones, I'll throw it in for free." And a lot of people like that. :-)
Yea and he used a Liftmaster button, anytime you hook up a wall button with a circuit brd on it, it draws some power from the machine because it's a lighted button and it doesn't always happen but it could cause the machine to not function properly. The guy should have just used a contact button.
ALLProGarageDoors nice vid, i have a one piece changed to a belt drive formula one from a chain ,and the door bounces
Yea we had a good conversation about that today, the door on this video was a monster and the #1356 handled it no problemo.
Great job brother. I'm glad I grew up a generation or two ago, we know how to do things for ourselves and save a few bucks. Nice work. Thanks for posting a very helpful video.
God bless.
Thanks buddy!! We certainly do know how to get it done!!
All-Pro Quality Garage Doors Inc. You sure do. Thanks again.
Great job, Mike! We don't get many one-pce doors out in the east coast, but a GDO install is a GDO install… Good call removing the existing angle from the ceiling, definitely going to do wonders for reducing vibration. And ahh! The classic "Garage Door Control" button. I call them the pods, haha! Take care!
Thanks Mikey!!
This is the video where I learned the drill trick, at first I thought it was stupid that was until I went to install my first set of sensors… it makes everything to much easier
and it looks cool 👍🏽👍🏽
Fantastic job 👍👍👍
Thanks buddy!!
Approximately how many millimeters, centimeters, should the motor chain rail be separated from the part where you put the screw with the nut at the beginning of the door Mike? Good
One piece door maroma door
Theres not really a measurement… just snug it snd test it. Too tight snd the sprocket will click, too loose snd the chain slaps the rail.
@@ALLProGarageDoors thank you
I have a 371lm and a 373lm and i used to have a Exact one bit with a yellowish buttons it was the 973lm
I just built and installed a 7'x10' one-piece door with the E-9000 hardware on my new one car garage. Works good manually. All the openers mentioned in this video and comments look to be discontinued. What brand/model do you recommend now at current 8/2023?
I’d probably go with an #81602…. they are an updated version of the older models.
Hey there, when doing a one piece metal door, how high above the top of the door (assuming you’re mounting the bracket on top of the door) should the rail be? How much higher off the floor should the rail be at the motor vs at the header? Right now I have 10.5”. Between the top of the door and the bottom of the rail, and I have 95” off the floor for bottom of rail at the header and 93” off the floor from the bottom of rail at the motor. When I open the door, at its highest, I have roughly 5.5” between the top of the door and the bottom of the rail. This leaves a decently steep angle for the J arm to the garage with the garage all the way open (tilted forward slightly). With the garage all the way closed the J arm angle has a small amount of fall toward the door. Just trying to see if this is fine or if it should lower the rail or motor or both, etc.
Your video helped me greatly already so thank you!
at the header the opener should be roughly 8-10 inches above the door and when the door is open there really isn’t a measurement… just make sure the drive arm on the long part is basically level, the part of the arm that attaches to the door can be higher than the curved part but not the other way around.
I followed your video on the 1 piece wood door build with the E900 hardware and it's working GREAT! Looking to put an opener on it now. I have a buddy who has a Lift Master 1265-267 Professional. Chain driven, 1/2 HP, single solid rail. Do you think this would be good for my door? I know you mentioned in comments below a 8160, 8163 so I wanted to get professional opinion before I make a mistake.
Obviously your talking about a used machine because they no longer make the 1265 nor any of the machines i mentioned as well. The 1265 is a good heavy duty machine that should work great on a 1pc door, they can be a bit noisy if not adjusted correctly but for the most part great machines. These days I would probaly go with an 81602WB… but that’s because it’s all i’m allowed to sell here in taxifornia that’s a decent enough opener to work a 1pc door for many yrs.
Hi dear Mike. To attach hardware to a concrete column, what screws and plugs should be used? And what measurements? Because the 6 pins that come, I imagine, are only for wooden gates and wooden columns. I am going to fix it to a concrete column and the gate will be made of aluminum. I also want to ask you because, as I have told you, here in Mexico there are no spare parts or anything from the Holmes brand that I bought in ft. lauderdale. The double hook for the springs can be used if only one spring is used, I think this because it may be light and do not need the 2 springs, just buy the supports for 2. Thank you very much Amigo.
The measurements will be the same as any other door. 20” down from the top plus the thickness of the door. There are a huge variety of concrete fasteners available so pick a good one. I would start at the lightest pin setting and go from there, the lightest setting is closest to the plate. I agree you might only need one spring per side but you can always add a second one if needed. 👍🏽
@@ALLProGarageDoors Thank you very much dear Mike, I had not seen your response, I am very sorry, it was my fault, it accumulated with more emails and I did not see it, I am sorry. Now, suggest me a screw size to adjust the tappets. I'm thinking of putting some expansion tappets on it. Is that okay? Thank you very much, I apologize, blessings Mike.
@@ALLProGarageDoors what is pin? I am not understand, task you Mike, nice day.
@@mrgerardo2323 I should have said bolt position on the kicker plate, closer to main pivot is light….farther away is stronger.
I think expansion tappets should be fine maybe 5/16ths
Great video I will re watch it. Thank you
Thanks Mario! Any questions let me know. 👍🏽
Hey, just a question, why do you need to use the small sprocket on a one piece door?
It slows the speed, on heavy doors slower is better!
I have a 1 1/4 horse opener but its' a belt drive wondering about boxing it up and sending it back cause of the belt drive all their other lightweight openers are chain type...Fricken amazon does that random shit...Now I believe I have a 250 dollar boat anchor for my 7x 15 one piece.. WDYT? Either way I think I'm screwed it said it would open a 600
pound plus door?
They always advertise openers as if the horse power is the main thing and it’s not, a third hp chain drive can outlift most openers because the components in the driveline are better, full chain, 1pc rail sometimes even a dual sprocket… those are nice 👍🏽. the openers withsectioned rails flex… then the belt flexes and it sets of the electronic sensitivity, the motors can definitely lift heavy doors but… its the herky jerky action of a 1 pc door that causes problems.
This video has been helpful and I'm hoping I could get confirmation. On my single panel door, I have a 8ft ceiling and the door comes within 1.5 inches of the rail. Will levelling the rail/arm reduce the shaking and shimmying that happens when operating the opener?
Not necessarily, if your hinges and springs are old they will allow the door to shimmy and shake. Leveling the drive arm can help alot with the initial downward start though because if the drive arm is not right the door will buck hard against the rail of the opener.
Thanks for the response. What you stated regarding the bucking is what I experienced after installing this opener and it was a difficult release. Is there any maintenance on the springs or anything else that I can do? I'll definitely be Leveling the rail.
Have you made any videos on removing or fixing dents in garage doors? Mine must be a first gen door. I don't see ways to make adjustments as I saw in your other video.
@@68dewster No i haven’t done any video’s in many years but that certainly is a good one to make, i’ll try and remember that.
@@68dewster yea it very well could be old hardware with no or little adjustability.
Anybody know how to adjust the height on the garage door ? Mind is rubbing against the floor and due to contact with concrete it’s rusting
I am also installing a single piece door. Instructions say the motor is supposed to be tilted down. Should it be horizontal? everything here talking about drive arm being level?
The motor should be tilted down and drive arm level.
@@ALLProGarageDoors Thank you sir
Do you mean the motor and therefore the rail should be tilted down?@@OceansideCreations
Hey is that why you put the lift arm in backwards to what the openers malefactors tell you to do it with the bent portion hooking to the trolley instead of the straight part?
on a 1 pc door the drive arm should be as long as possible and the curved should connect to the trolley. On a sectional door it would be reversed.
@@ALLProGarageDoors well in your video it's the other way the straight part attached to the top of the one piece door? I'm not sure how it would work at all the other way just pull the 2x4 off the door?
@@craighallam4472 Watch the video at the 30:33 mark. that is exactly how the drive arm attaches to a 1 pc door.
Thanks, are most garage door openers compatible with flat garage doors; I have a 7 ft. by 16 ft. flat door. Genie told me that their model 7055 would not be compatible with my flat door. Can't figure out why. Bob
Simple answer is because Genie machines basically suck. The trick to getting the right opener on a flat door is to stay away from the big box store model openers... the long rails have to be chopped into 3-4 sections in order to fit into a box that you can carry out of the store and although the motors can handle the load, the 3-4 piece rails can't. Flat doors tend to bounce and a weak rail will flex and between the bouncing and flexing the sensitivity of the motor trips and refuses to open or close. What you need is a liftmaster chain drive with a 1 piece rail. Chain drives are quiet, durable, low maintenance and can easily handle a rough working flat door. A Liftmaster may cost you more up front but in the long run 10-15 yrs down the road they turn out to be a bargain. you will go thru 2-3-4 genie's for one Liftmaster because the components can't handle what the motor puts out, you need an opener that has solid, durable components not plastic components with an over sized motor but most importantly is a machine with a solid 1 piece rail. Hope that helps.
I could use your masterful advice, I need to install a garage door opener at home and I have 15' x 7' Aluminum 1-Piece Trackless (Sidesprings & Hinges) Garage door. What brand, make, model would you recommend?
Well hello once again Noel...I would recommend the Liftmaster #8075. It's a dual sprocket chain drive with a chain spreader so it's pretty quiet and extremely durable. If you wanted a machine with all the bells and whistles you could go with a Liftmaster #8550 belt drive...but you have to make sure your door is perfectly balanced and stays that way otherwise the belt drives have problems with the motion of the door, normally I don't recommend belt drives on a 1pc door but since yours is aluminum it should be ok. Both of these machines are sweet.
Thanks so much man, how much does a Liftmaster 8075 go for normally and who sells them? Is there an equivalent unit I can get from Lowe's or Home Depot. Thanks for the time and effort I really appreciate it...
Not sure about equivalent models from retail stores but the #8075 usually goes for about $389.00 Installed or $229.00 uninstalled. the #8550 goes for $519.00 installed or $359.00 uninstalled. Sometimes the price can look expensive but their not considering how long they last and how little maintenance they need, in the long run say 10-15-20 yrs down the road you will have saved because the lousy brands will fail after 5 yrs and you'll end up buying another one. If your going to sell the house in a few yrs then just about anything will do. You can get either one from a Liftmaster dealer.
Okay thanks so much man!
No problem Noel.
Are the truss rods absolutely necessary ?
Definitely!! if you remove them your door will start to sag in the middle then collapse. Doors 12ft and under don’t require truss rods.
I have a one piece garage door. I have a low ceiling in my garage. When the door is nearest the ceiling there's only a 4" clearance. There is no existing rail as the garage is manual lift. Would I be able to mount the rail flush with the ceiling? I tried to google this but I couldn't find a straight answer.
I would back mount the opener. open the door and then mount the opener right above where the door stops and use a longer drive arm. they work great like that.
You know what I noticed you do not need a chain spreader on a T rail
Zackary Watkins since they started using a nylon pulley up front instead of a sprocket...the machines are much more quiet even without a spreader.
What is the purpose of the small sprocket for one-piece doors? This will make it move slower but is that really a big deal?
Not really a big deal except on the super huge doors
What’s the difference between a section garage door opener and a 1 piece garage door opener? Everywhere I go they say I can’t use the opener for my 1 piece garage door.
Chain drives are built more for 1 pc doors, belt drives have too much flex and big box store openers are broken down into way too many pieces to have any strength. Get a Liftmaster #8160wb or #8163...keep your 1pc door balanced and painted and you should be good to go! 👍🏽👍🏽
Any reason you used a chain drive versus a belt-drive on a 1-pc tilt door?
Bret Jorgensen The belt drives have problems lifting as well as closing a 1pc door, they might work ok for a short time but on a double car wooden door they set off the sensitivity of the machine. 1 pc doors bounce a bit as they open and sometimes that can cause the opener problems. On a single car light 1pc door they are fine.
Hello what is that type of hinge assembly called? Thanks very much for the response
holmes e-900
@@ALLProGarageDoors Thank you!!! Greatly appreciated
That's one heavy ass door. But other than that good job 👍
Yes it was brother👍🏻👍🏻
I thought I was professional until I watched this video
Slava Spivak you are still Professional my friend!!
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