Thank you for taking the time to explain each step in this video. Ive just rebuilt two 90+ year old houses in the Hollywood Hills, and want to keep the 1pc doors original. I've never done garage door work before, yet know I can confidently tackle it now...these informatives not only help do-it-yourselfers, but they also assist those of us whose building fortes lie elsewhere.
Robert Dunn Glad to help out Robert!! As you can see by some comments there are others that would prefer you not do anything on your own...you should pay a "certified Master technician" to rip you off. Glad to see you tackle it and save the coin!!
Thank you Mike..1978 hinges hit the floor 3 days ago..called 3 friends and we all sat down and watched your 48 min video on the E900, twice!!! got right the 1st time..you rock Mike.
Wow! Very impressive Lonnie! Not many people are willing to even tackle a job like this. I caught some hell in the earlier comments for even making this video in the first place but people like you are proving the critics wrong! That is fantastic news Lonnie!!! 👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you so much for posting this perfect tutorial!! I completed my 1pc door rehab project this evening using your advise and it came out perfect. Many thanks!!! 🙏
Mistakes. 1. Disconnect the L bar from the opener and the top of the garage. Or else you will destroy it when you open the door. 2. Hang two 5 gallon buckets of water from each spring attachment bolt on the hardware. This 80 lbs hanging from the spring attachment point will allow you to raise the door. You will break your back trying to lift the door without water bucket counter weights. Mike has made an excellent video. Like he says, mount the plate, adjust the door........ then screw in your 3 inch lags to the door with the hardware in a natural position of comfort. The hardest part is raising the door without any springs.
The instruction that came with the E900 hardware kit was a bit confusing. Thanks to this video, I was able to install my garage door in just over an hour. Thank You!
Jim Holmes glad the video could be of some help to you!! Looks like you didn't even have to call in a "certified master technician". Glad you saved yourself some decent money!! Thats what the videos are for!!
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. I thought I would have replace my door. My hinge broke, so I plan to replace both of them. Bless you Mike.
Mike I can’t tell you how many times I come back to this video when I need to make adjustments. I built a 16’ slab door for my son 2 years ago, and had it tweaked perfectly thanks to your well done videos. I had an incident happen yesterday that you might want to stress to your viewers. My lag bolt that holds the steel anchor for the springs at the bottom of door failed and shot out like a rocket from the tension of the springs. I told my son that it was my fault because I should have gone with a longer lag screw to hold the anchor. It was my fault, not anything to do with manufacturer. The problem now is, he is so freaked out that he doesn’t want springs anymore. He thinks they will break or something. He wants counterweights, and I told him that is nearly impossible because it would require a lot of weight suspended from hardware that wasn’t designed for that. I am a little frustrated right now because I know it’s a simple repair, and it was pilot error. Just stressing the fact to your viewers, the importance of making sure the bottom wall anchor for the springs is secure. It’s been too long for me to remember, but I think I used my own lag screw, and it was only about 3” long. Not enough.
The lower lags should have been provided in the hardware kit but in any event they are roughly 5-1/2 to 6 inches long and when you pilot hole for the lag try to angle it slightly upward. That should make for a good hold, they rarely pull out when installed properly. Counterweights…like you said just won’t work so maybe just refill the hole with a dowel, and pilot upward and use the longest, strongest lag that will work and you’ll be fine. Do both sides.
Thank you for such a quick response! There is no question it was my error, and I knew the lags were supplied. Somewhere down the line I screwed up and used the wrong lag, or one of my own. Thanks again! Now it’s just convincing my son that it won’t happen again. It was my fault. The hinges are fantastic! No complaints at all! I love all the adjustments you have to choose from.
Great video! I have a similar door that a garage guy wanted to sell me a whole new door, but my springs are waaaayyyy shot. As in I have to push like mad to raise it. New springs and a slider screw carriage and I'll be as good as new:-) Plus, I understand some of the adjustments that can be made that had no idea. Awesome!
Great information for replacing hardware. I called some local tech's but they wouldn't give me a ballpark price on phone. One place said springs are $80 each. I can get them for $20. I don't have an opener, else I would pay a pro. I am sure they want to up-sell me segmented doors for $2000. Therefore this repair guide helped me make the doors Easy to open for little money.Thanks!
My garage door opener was broken 2 weeks ago and I realized it was caused by 30+ years old hinges. By following your instruction, bought the new hardware and springs from local Home Depot, I was able to replace it without any issue (took 2 afternoon). This one piece old garage door likes new again. Very appreciate for your excellent video with detail explanation.
Mike, I was looking for a fairly short video, today, to get me through my job of installing new springs -P728- on a wood garage door just like this one in video. I've done the job and came across your video, tonight and told myself "I'm not watching a 48 minute drawn out video. I really don't have time. I found myself watching this from beginning to end! You really did a great job on this install vide. I am happier than happy that I started it. You refreshed me and taught me things about these setups I didn't even know about. THANK YOU! Today, it took 2 of us to pull these springs up to get them on the hooks. Then, the door was too hard/heavy. Opening and closing felt too heavy and I was NOT going to install the new carriage until it was much better. I adjusted the bolts on the Adjustable Kicker (4 holes) down 1 hole on each side. This was a huge difference. However, I had to remove springs in order to move bolts to lower holes. Does this sound like the spring hook chain is 1-2 links too short Again.., 2 to R&R the springs. It seems to operate well but, something in back of my mind says this door should be a little more easier to operate. Again, thank you, for an excellent, top notch, professionally done video! Liked, subscribed and saved this video!
Thanks buddy I appreciate ya watching my vid. sometimes these doors can be so heavy that even a balanced door takes a bit to get it moving… once moving they are ok. If it stops and stays where you want it to then it’s ok. Sometimes these 1 piece doors can only get so smooth that perfection can’t always be achieved, other times if you just play with it a bit longer you can nail it and get that perfection.
@@ALLProGarageDoors Thank you. I appreciate your time in responding. I did get it done and client/customer says all working well, days later. Your video really was a great help that I had not anticipated. I saved it for future reference( cause, when you get older..., you forget shit :). Thanks, again!
You are the man, Mike! I have a 32 yr. old one piece steel door with worn out hinges. The main hinge pivot had almost worn completely through the master arm. I had to do something fast. I called 15 garage door companies here in Phoenix, but none would work on a one-piece door. They were all happy to recommend that I spend over $2,000 for a new roll-up door. I'm very happy with my existing door. In 32 years, it has only needed 2 sets of extension springs (easy DIY job). Compared to what my neighbors pay for constant maintenance on their roll up doors, that's a bargain. Thanks to your video I was able to replace the hinges and springs on my one-piece door for $200 and about 4 hours of my time. You saved me $1,800 and lots of future maintenance bills. Thanks!!!
Wow That's fantastic!! you wouldn't believe the crap I get from garage door companies protesting the fact that I put out video's like this. It cuts into their business when you do this type of job yourself. They say it's way to dangerous to show jobs like this, but obviously not since you were able to pull this off...Good for you!! Thanks for watching!
Funny thing is that I tried for months to find a garage door company to do the job. No "professionals" were interested. As for danger, your video shows the proper way to install this kit. I suspect it would be more dangerous for a DIYer to install the E900 kit without having viewed your video. Thanks Again!!
Thank you, Mike, for taking the time to completely explain and demonstrate how to remove and replace one piece garage door hinges.👍 I loved my one-piece door and didn't want it replaced at any price. I'm fairly handy with repairs but was very nervous taking on my R&R job. Watched this video 3 times and then set out with what you teach and 5 hours later, with no hidden surprises, I have my brand new one piece door hinges installed and working perfectly. Getting the bottom of the door gap right would have been something that I would have never considered. My garage door has never functioned so well.👍 Thank you again for putting this together, Ed.
Not sure new hardware will solve my problem but after watching this video it’s worth a try and may solve other problems. The door pops open after the machine closes it…sometimes five minutes later! Thanks for taking the time to create and share. Love that’s it’s still being viewed years later.
@@ALLProGarageDoors Do you need to use 2 Garage door hardware kits for single garage door that weighs under 250? Or will 1 hardware kit work just as fine?
Johnny Griego I'm not sure what you mean by "kit" but when you get the hardware it comes in a box that should be complete minus the springs so everything else in the box should be enough to do both sides of a door.
@@ALLProGarageDoors sorry if my verbiage threw you off. But when I say kit I'm replying to the garage door hinge. Would one hinge work plenty for a 250 lbs door ? And one spring? Or would I have to install 2 door hinges and 1 spring for each hinge? Thank you for your help
Johnny Griego no worries...typically on a garage door you would have one hinge and two springs on each side. So two hinges total and 4 springs for a door that weighs 250. I don't believe that one spring per side would be sufficient.
Thanks very much for this video. It was very helpful! I successfully replaced the hinges on our 1961 garage door today. I added the top brace as you recommended, and it really helped with the stability of the hinges. The old hinges used to wobble side-to-side; the newly braced hinges corrected that. About the only confusing adjustment for me was the "above the knee" kicker, as the door was falling too quickly even with the spring on one of the shortest chain loops. The manufacturer provides an extra kicker bolt on the right side hinge plate. I guess the intent is that you add the extra bolt in the hole below the existing bolt without removing the original bolt, then after the extra bolt is tightened remove the original bolt and do the same on the opposite side (this allows you to move the bolt down in the "above the knee" kicker without unfastening the springs). I stored the extra bolt on the top brace (the extra bolt is provided in the hole I used for the top brace). I appreciated your clear descriptions of all the steps, especially how to adjust the kicker to optimize the lifting power of the springs. The garage door now operates so much more smoothly with our garage door opener. Thanks again for a great video.
Everything you said is correct! Glad you have a good knowledge of how the hardware works, it's amazing how many adjustments there really is on this hardware to allow the door to just float. 👍🏽👍🏽
Hey Mike, thanks for a very informative video! I now "get it" about adjusting the kicker mechanism - my door is a little heavy and I know how to adjust it. Thanks again!
Very interesting video on installing one piece garage door hardware! When I was a kid, both our garages had the one piece doors. I am actually surprised you can still get hardware for them being that they have gone away from them.
I’d be surprised if the hardware wasn’t phased out in the coming yrs. Some parts are already obsolete like the 1pc truss rods and some truss rod hdwr. But then again i’ve seen some parts go obsolete then a yr or two later they are back in production so who knows. 🤷🏼♂️
Stupid Cantilevers! Been ripping these swing up doors out for over 20 years. Almost any left are never going to change to sectional. Newer openers are weak, and need to be adjusted just right to work on a swing up. In fact, most say on the box for sectional doors only. Thanks for the info on those! I would hold on to any older openers for future use. Those old Genie screwdrives aren't being made anymore. They were beasts. The newer Chamberlains are DC and one time getting jammed finishes them off. No more changing out a worn plastic gear. I switched to appliances a while ago and now am doing appliance repair and garage door work. Appliances Cheaper is my channel. Most of the videos are pretty old though.
@@ALLProGarageDoors finally getting around to fixing the garage door and finding that the door is rubbing against the garage opener rail and one of the ceiling beams. I'm guessing I don't have the long plate lined up on the door high enough. Or is it that the main plate not high enough? Help! Please. Thanks!
@@spinn1 there are three holes on the bottom of the main plate, the cantelever arm should be in the hole closest to the door… move it to the middle hole on both hinges and the door will turn faster.
@@ALLProGarageDoors at 12:52 in the video, the plate is shown and it looks like the holes that you're talking about, you have the cantilever arm in the first hole, is that correct? You mentioned it should be in the hole (3rd?) closest to the door, but I should move it to the middle hole? Not in front of it at the moment, but I think it's already in the 2nd hole position. I will check later. Thanks!
Another great video on tilt-up doors Mike..! Wish you were here in south Orange County as our tilt-up has pulled away from the jamb on one side. I noticed that the jamb is slightly split and had the angle iron installed but the original hardware (same as your video) still has a 1/4" space at top between hardware and jamb and so whole is out of balance. Having a hard time finding someone with your knowledge on tilt-up's...but with your video at least I can ask the right questions. Thank you..!
I have a number for a guy up that way. i don’t know him but was told by someone that he knows his stuff… shoot me an email reminding me and i’ll get you his number. 👍🏽
Check the pivot points for wear and make sure when the door is open that the drive arm is higher at the door than at the trolley and check the door balance by hand.
Mike, great video! I have a question: My 1-pc door is very heavy; to make the door so it doesn't drop so quickly from shoulder to waste 1) should I move the bolt on the arm to the next closer hole (you said this would provide a large adjustment) or...2) Should I reconnect the springs to a lower chain link..? Thanks in advance, Brad
HEY MIKE!~ learning alot through your videos. One issue we've been having is once we get through setup before adding springs we test the door by pushing it open a bit and immediately thr top of the door is hitting the top of the header. We have about 1.5" gap while completely closed but as soon as we swing it open it hits the top. Do we really need a larger gap or is there an adjustment were not using?
good question, the door typically uses the header as a stop or bumper otherwise the door will tuck underneath it. if your not planning on lowering the opening then look on the main plate and near the bottom there are three holes, move the cantelever over to the middle hole and the door will turn faster, if you go to the farthest hole it will turn back immediately but then the garage door opener will struggle with it.
excellent explanatory video, I would like to know what is the length between each point of rotation of the mechanism ?, or where I can get some plane in which detail the lengths, is to see if this system I can adapt to my garage, thanks supporting.
This E900 site seems to describe the Holmes product in detail : www.onepiecegarage.com/garage-hardware-installation_a/263.htm I have a really bad old installation - maybe this fine video will help me too - still preparing...
Great video. This was on a wood door if you have a 1 car metal garage door not very heavy gauge would you use the same lags to attach to the door or use a different method.? Also not sure what springs I would use? Original installation had roller assembly on each side which bit the dust.
We do more metal than wood, we use fine threaded self tapping screws and a nut on the back side.As for springs i'd say one 728 on each side should work just fine.
At 27:52 you can see the two small holes that are there to accept double-headed nails to be placed to hold the bracket 'square' after it is adjusted 'plumb.' Also, the MFG recommends the replacement of the wood as best practice when the new hardware would need to use the 'old holes,' and filling the 'old holes' with dowels as the next best approach. Given the size pilot holes and lag screws, the best way to install those dowels would be to glue them in place and let them set up a while before drilling new pilot holes and driving in the lag screws. I mean, if it were my house . . .
I have a question on spring length. I commonly see 28",30" and 32" I know the wire thickness 5,7,9 determines strength and how much weight the springs will lift. How do you pick the correct length of spring? My scenario - a rental property with 6 doors, All doors are original and I'm finding 4 spring lengths. My guess is the repair people use what they have and make it work... How to you pick the correct length? Any advantage to a longer or shorter spring? thanks
A 7 ft high or less would be the 28" 7ft 4" to 7ft 6" would take the 30" and an 8 ft high door would be the 32". if you use a spring thats too long for the height of the door then the door won't stay open when operated by hand because the springs go slack so you gotta have the proper length. The wire gauge is a bit harder to get right without experience and having different sizes on hand to try out but a rule of thumb would be that 2-728s on each side of a double car door can usually balance it if the plywood isn't too thick and the door is what would be considered normal. I can balance most doors with a pair of 728s on each side, if it's maybe a thicker ply or has trim on the face that adds weight so i could do a 728 and a 528 on each side. real heavy doors would take a pair of 528s on each side but your hinges need to be in great shape to take that kind of spring pressure. same goes for single car doors but only one spring on each side.
If I use a one-piece door like this will I have more height? I have a standard type Clopay 4 section door now. I am able to build a door as you did in your other video. Thanks
lostintime86 no... you’ll have less height because the door sits under the header. So you lose the thickness of the door, roughly 2-6 inches depending on if you use steel or wood.
Question..I have a one car door that I want to install this hardware on. I don't plan on opening this garage door often. Just when I'm working on my bikes. Besides everything you have done here, do I need the center track or motor in order for this door to open . I'd prefer not to in order make this a low cost project. Please let me know
Good video !~ Need quick question: my one piece sheet metal door has vintage original horiz roller wheel rails up high (both sides), does this e900 system need those rails which have only 1 roller at top of each side of door ? there is no vertical track at all, just wondering if I should try to keep the existing top tracks and the left and right top rollers to use with the e900 to make it extra safe/ stable ? I'm thinking no, it does not have to have the upper rails as it can do the whole door stand alone, but it probably would make it stronger "if" the exact alignment w existing vintage rail tracks could be made, (its not possible to move the upper rails to accommodate e900 system so e900 is the only adjustment. ) , thanks.
Sorry about the delay… if you switch out to e900 then the tracks will be obsolete. it’s quite a job to switch from jamb track hardware like yours to e900 but totally doable.
Im wondering if I missed something. After you removed both brackets and the door was sitting on the ground how did you support it to keep it from falling out front? Thanks for the video.
Sir I have two 12 foot wide by 8 Foot tall doors to build and install. The E900 hardware kit list that it is for 7'4" tall doors max. Can I make this work for the 8'-0" ? Can not find any hardware for 8'-0" tall doors. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks for the videos didn't think about building the doors until watching your video
Normally the 8 ft hardware is listed as LCJ8, if you can't find it then yes the E-900 can work in a pinch but sometimes balancing the doors can get trick but if you use p-732 springs, you should be fine.
Where can I get just one of the deadbolts that comes in the hardware kit? Every one I can buy is thinner and cheap or a 3/8" padlock shackle will not fit even though they claim it's for that size.
So if a door is heavy, wont open or stay up new springs would be a start? They are at least 12 years old. I have it on the 2nd last hole on the arm and it is still heavy. Also need to stretch spring about 10-12 inches to hook onto arm.
You need bigger springs, maybe a 528 and a 728 on the same side or even a pair of 528s for the really heavy doors. The springs should have a 1-2 inch starting stretch.
Thanks for the video, Mike! Super helpful! I have a question you might be able to answer. I've done the install, however, when the door is open, the garage door is a bit low in height. Is there a way I can increase the height? As note, is used the previous master plate's holes in the metal jabs for the new master plate. So, maybe it's due to different equipment? I'm not too sure. Thank you :)
Great video Hi Ben from Australia 40 minute you talk about the normal hole on the plate mine is in the second hole I need to move to the normal hole do I support the garage door take out the springs then move it or can I move it with out taken the springs out. Cheers
That's a great question! By the way... G-day mate!! Always love talkin to the Aussies! You can do it without removing the springs, you have to kick the door out so it's about a foot open then support it with your leg and back then remove the bolt. Now the door is going to want to go down at the bottom and forward at the top and the bolt barely has enough room to come out (there's a washer in there too so don't let it fall out) but once you get the bolt out use your leg and back to force the door to go in the direction you need it to go in order to drop into the normal hole, it's a bit of a juggling act with some finagling but it will go.
I just change new springs as per instruction ed and it is working fine. Thank a lot. I just change new springs as instructed and it is working fine. Thank a lot! How to change the opener, Crusader 220SS? Do you have any video for that?
Great video, very informative. I have a one piece galvanized metal garage door (dimensions: 215" W by 82 1/2" H). One of my door side springs broke. I could not determine what size the spring was, it was very rusted. So i looked for a replacement spring about the same size and diameter. I bought 2-P528 springs. After i installed 2 new springs the door would not close, it only partially closed then got stuck. What do think I am doing wrong or have not performed any adjustments. Also how do i determine which are the correct springs for my size and weight of garage door? thank you Phillip
It sounds like you have the right size springs if you tried to match what was already there. It's extremely hard to tell why your door springs are maxed out. maybe this video might help. ua-cam.com/video/VgxtZlpW9us/v-deo.html
@@ALLProGarageDoors I am 73 years old with heart disease. I am not strong enough to extendP528 springs, any suggestions on other options to extend springs to the C hooks.
@@phillipnajera5224 I've never tried it any other way, maybe a neighbor could do it for you? I think it could be done other ways but rigging up a come-along would be just as much effort.
I’m going to put new springs on mine as well as replace some of the bolts. I can get the correct size springs and will use grade 8.8 strength bolts. Too difficult to try to get someone to do it. If it all goes wrong I’ve had a good life and have written my will 😅
Thanks for the video Mike. I have one question about locating the top bolt for the main bracket in the door jamb. I searched thru the comments and didn't see any reference so maybe I'm missing something. Starting about 10:10 you talk about measuring down from the bottom of the header 23-1/2" using the template but it looks like you put your reference mark on the jamb adjacent to the bottom of the horizontal 2x4 along the top of the door on both sides not the bottom of the header beam to measure from. What am I missing? I know this is going to determine clearance between the open door and the header where the bumper goes and I want to get it right the first time. I don't have a template but I put the hinge on the garage floor in the open position and measured from the main plate top mounting hole to the angle bracket that attaches to the door and got 20". My door is 3" thick so to locate the top hole in the main plate I should measure from the bottom of the header down 23" then add an inch or two so there will be clearance, correct? Hope this all makes sense. Let me know if you need pictures and I'll e-mail you. Background: Years ago I got a one piece wood door from a friend who replaced his with a sectional door. I built a door frame in the back of my garage and cut out the wall and installed the door using all the old hardware except I used new springs. That door finally got too old and ratty so I built my own from scratch and am using your video to re-install the hardware. Sorry for such a long question, I used to write engineering process instructions.
The measurements are 20” plus thickness of door ( taken from the side) and that’s it, no adding anymore inches to it just 20 plus door thickness and you’ll measure from the bottom of the header down. Sometimes here in SD we get jambs that are notched around the header and extend above so taking the measurements are harder but just go from the underside of the header down.
This video is perfect! I now can confidently tackle my replacement job. One question. You mentioned adjusting the top and bottom tension rods, but didn’t explain what the target tension) is. What is the goal when tightening these?
the “truss rods” keep the door from sagging in the middle, so if your door looks to be drooping… tightening these rods takes the sag out of the door when it’s open. 👍🏽👍🏽
You measure 19 and 1/2 inches down from the underside of the header beam plus the thickness of the door taking this measurement from the side of the door not the top or bottom. If you have a design on the door that has to be considered as part of the thickness as well. Now that measurement would be where you would drill your first pilot hole for the Lag and NOT where you place the top of the plate.
Great video; very informative. But, what can you do if you're not strong enough to pull up and hook the spring on the hook? Is there some hardware that will let you connect the springs, and then stretch the spring? Maybe some kind of adjustable bottom connector?
Depot sells U-hooks for the bottom that adjust as you tighten but its a long process of tightening. There's not as much strength needed as one might think to stretch a spring, you only need 2inches of stretch on most doors. Dip your knees and grab the spring just above the half way point and pin your arms to your sides tight then just stand up, the spring if gripped properly will stretch as you stand. the guy that trained me many years ago was 115 lbs and he easily stretched all sizes... i couldn't figure out how he did it... then he showed me his technique and voila!! it was easy... no secrets to it just proper form.
I learned to do this yesterday. I had a hell of of time gripping the spring while wearing gloves, then I tried it bare handed and it was MUCH grippier and I had no trouble stretching the springs. (still required a good deal of strength though...)
When I build my door to fit my opening...what should the tolerances be? I want the door to fit snug as possible as it the room/garage will be a living space when closed. Think more of a flip up wall than garage door. It won't be cycling open and close as much as a regular garage door. I was thinking 1/4 inch gap on each side? Also does the door hit the header at the top to make a nice seal? Or is there a gap at the top also?
Garrett Brittle great question! If your not putting an opener on it then yes you could do a 1/4 inch, with an opener then min 3/8ths and yes the door should touch the header for a good seal.
Perfect thank you. I got one more question - I hope. I want my door to be flush on the inside of the room with the drywall. To do this I was thinking I would make the top of the door fit the inside area of the opening just as the sides of the door do with 3/8 inch tolerance. Would this work? Picture basically a 2x4 constructed door that fits in the 2x4 constructed wall like a plug. Think it can work? I can call or email if needed.
Garrett Brittle , i think it can as long as its not too wide because a double door needs a truss rod to support the sag when its open. If you plan on tucking it in underneath the header instead of butting up to the header then start looking around for whats called “flush mount hardware” not sure if its still avail or not but i would think somebody makes it still.
I think if you use normal hardware you will need between an inch and an inch and a half if you want to tuck under the header... 3/8 above the door I don’t think is nearly enough.
All-Pro Quality Garage Doors Inc. hey man thanks for response. I ended up modifying the header to make the door flush. I’ll record a quick video showing what I did. Build my single car door yesterday also.
Getting ready to finally replace my original Holmes garage door hardware. Why wouldnt the new "hinges" just bolt up with the old mounting holes if theyre the same mfg hinges? Thanks
They can as long as they are the same model of hinges. Older hinges tend to be 1100 series and newer ones 900 series if they don't match the hole location should be different
I ran into a problem with the 900 series, 1, the actual plate is not the same size as the 1100 series, and because of that the top of my garage door does not sit flush ( I need to shim my garage door about 1/2 an inch. And I suppose my p730 springs are useless because it tilts on the side I replaced. I have to still replace and shim the other side ( Curses Holmes Corp for not making a 1100 kit ) your 900 kit isn't a real direct fit. However I do like the spring tensioner. Now if I can't use my 2 year old p730 springs I might just bit the dust and get what everyone has in the neighborhood... A new sectional door. Hopefully there is something I overlooked. I'm glad I got one side done before the rains come. My garage door is newly painted so I'm not worried about water penetrating through making a heavy door out of it. Still love your video!
The E-900 is definitely different from 1100. the measurements are different, i do believe they say to measure 20" plus the thickness of the door down from the header, but i've found the old measurement of 19 1/2 to 19 3/4 to work better for me. the thickness of the door is to be measured from one of the sides not the bottom or top. 730 springs are for doors around 7'4" to 7'6" high, 7 ft high doors take a 728
@@ALLProGarageDoors would that bring the top back in... It's only out about an inch maybe 1 1/4 I'd think by shimming the garage door would do the trick but definitely notice the door is warp a little when operating with the original bracket on one side and the 900 on the other side, but doesn't rub on the house and my garage door opener still operates. I'm waiting till Thursday to do the other side.
@@robertfaulkner7152 Hard to tell exactly whats going on by your description but you can try it. i wouldn't do anything adjustment wise until you get the other side installed.
@@ALLProGarageDoors I installed the other arm and the door stabilized. All is working good. Definitely having counter weights definitely helped when lowering the door... But honestly two five gallon buckets isn't enough.
E-900 is only rated to 7’4” or 7’6” high doors. look for Lcj-8 or Hcj-8. you could also try Apex hardware, its better than Holmes and they make 8 ft as well. try home depot. com or google apex garage door hardware.
If I install the door so that the top of the door touches the back of the header, does that mean that the door isn't 100% vertical when it's closed? Does it rest at a slight angle or does the door come down vertically behind the header?
Phil L The door does indeed touch the back of the header and should sit fairly vertically, sometimes they aren’t perfect and could be at a slight angle outward when fully closed...but that is controlled by the cantelever arm and can be adjusted.
Ok, that makes sense. But if the top of the door is hitting the header, what is the purpose of the jamb bumpers (or door stop)? Should it hit the header or door bumpers first?
Mike congratulations. who makes the hardware now? I need that information and link because Holmes changed owners and they no longer manufacture it, is it the same for any size of gate? mine measures 5.70 meters wide, in feet 18.700787. per 2 meters high, in feet. 6.56168.
Good morning, Mike. Do you always have to leave your arms flush with your spine? If I have a column that measures 50 centimeters, can I not fix the gate at, say, 25 centimeters? in the middle of the column or gate frame? or it is impossible. I don't know if I can send a photo or sketch here, but I know you understand me. thank you.
Good morning Mike, I already brought the e900 with me, a problem, and they made me leave the box at the airport and I don't have the instructions, but I want to ask you. Is the midpoint of the floor to the ceiling of the wall where the arms will be placed taken as a reference? Or how do you get that distance? Thanks, hug. a problem picking it up at Home Depot is one store where the springs were and in another the arms, uffff, wrapping it, etc, so that later they made me remove the box and pay again to laminate it, chaos.
so the E900goes up to 350lbs. Those are single doors. I have a double 7'x16' all wood from 1969. I have no way to weigh it. I cant seem to find anything bigger then the E900? does anybody know ones that are close to the Homes 1100 series that I have on the door already?
The 1100 series is light duty. Use the E-900…. much heavier duty. If you think your door is heavier than most you can look around for HCJ-7, that’s pretty super duty but might not be available anymore.
@@ALLProGarageDoors Thanks for the video. It was very helpful. I do have a question too. Why can't you remove one side of the hardware, replace it with the new hardware on that side and then go to the second side, remove it and then install the new one? To reword my query, why do you remove both sets of hardware before installing the new hardware? Is it so you can make the adjustments and make sure that the door is aligned properly?
@@danielsweet1799 Good question, I suppose you could do it that way if your satisfied with the height of the door off the ground, if you want the door higher or lower you'd have to release it from both sides onto whatever shim you have underneath the door but short of that i don't see any other reason on you couldn't leave one side still connected to the old hardware while working on the other... just don't attempt to operate it with two different types of hardware in the meantime.
2024 working on an old e900 door, you sir are a champion. Thanks for saving me a day of frustration
Well done. You have an exceptional way of communicating every step of the door hinge assembly. It helped immensely.
Thank you for taking the time to explain each step in this video. Ive just rebuilt two 90+ year old houses in the Hollywood Hills, and want to keep the 1pc doors original. I've never done garage door work before, yet know I can confidently tackle it now...these informatives not only help do-it-yourselfers, but they also assist those of us whose building fortes lie elsewhere.
Robert Dunn Glad to help out Robert!! As you can see by some comments there are others that would prefer you not do anything on your own...you should pay a "certified Master technician" to rip you off. Glad to see you tackle it and save the coin!!
Thank you Mike..1978 hinges hit the floor 3 days ago..called 3 friends and we all sat down and watched your 48 min video on the E900, twice!!! got right the 1st time..you rock Mike.
Wow! Very impressive Lonnie! Not many people are willing to even tackle a job like this. I caught some hell in the earlier comments for even making this video in the first place but people like you are proving the critics wrong! That is fantastic news Lonnie!!! 👍🏻👍🏻
Since I first saw a spring loaded door hinge like these I wondered what each adjustment did... and NOW I KNOW! Wow that was helpfull.
Thank you!
Thank you so much for posting this perfect tutorial!! I completed my 1pc door rehab project this evening using your advise and it came out perfect. Many thanks!!! 🙏
Excited video! You sure can tell you are seasoned in what you do! You are a great teacher!
Mistakes. 1. Disconnect the L bar from the opener and the top of the garage. Or else
you will destroy it when you open the door. 2. Hang two 5 gallon buckets of water from each
spring attachment bolt on the hardware. This 80 lbs hanging from the spring attachment point will allow you to raise the door. You will break your back trying to lift the door without water bucket counter weights.
Mike has made an excellent video. Like he says, mount the plate, adjust the door........ then screw in your 3 inch lags to the door with the hardware in a natural position of comfort. The hardest part is raising the door without any springs.
Yeah my guy did not do that and now I am screwed.
The instruction that came with the E900 hardware kit was a bit confusing. Thanks to this video, I was able to install my garage door in just over an hour. Thank You!
Jim Holmes glad the video could be of some help to you!! Looks like you didn't even have to call in a "certified master technician". Glad you saved yourself some decent money!! Thats what the videos are for!!
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. I thought I would have replace my door. My hinge broke, so I plan to replace both of them. Bless you Mike.
Mike I can’t tell you how many times I come back to this video when I need to make adjustments. I built a 16’ slab door for my son 2 years ago, and had it tweaked perfectly thanks to your well done videos. I had an incident happen yesterday that you might want to stress to your viewers. My lag bolt that holds the steel anchor for the springs at the bottom of door failed and shot out like a rocket from the tension of the springs. I told my son that it was my fault because I should have gone with a longer lag screw to hold the anchor. It was my fault, not anything to do with manufacturer. The problem now is, he is so freaked out that he doesn’t want springs anymore. He thinks they will break or something. He wants counterweights, and I told him that is nearly impossible because it would require a lot of weight suspended from hardware that wasn’t designed for that. I am a little frustrated right now because I know it’s a simple repair, and it was pilot error. Just stressing the fact to your viewers, the importance of making sure the bottom wall anchor for the springs is secure. It’s been too long for me to remember, but I think I used my own lag screw, and it was only about 3” long. Not enough.
The lower lags should have been provided in the hardware kit but in any event they are roughly 5-1/2 to 6 inches long and when you pilot hole for the lag try to angle it slightly upward. That should make for a good hold, they rarely pull out when installed properly. Counterweights…like you said just won’t work so maybe just refill the hole with a dowel, and pilot upward and use the longest, strongest lag that will work and you’ll be fine. Do both sides.
Thank you for such a quick response! There is no question it was my error, and I knew the lags were supplied. Somewhere down the line I screwed up and used the wrong lag, or one of my own. Thanks again! Now it’s just convincing my son that it won’t happen again. It was my fault. The hinges are fantastic! No complaints at all! I love all the adjustments you have to choose from.
Great video! I have a similar door that a garage guy wanted to sell me a whole new door, but my springs are waaaayyyy shot. As in I have to push like mad to raise it. New springs and a slider screw carriage and I'll be as good as new:-) Plus, I understand some of the adjustments that can be made that had no idea. Awesome!
Great information for replacing hardware. I called some local tech's but they wouldn't give me a ballpark price on phone. One place said springs are $80 each. I can get them for $20. I don't have an opener, else I would pay a pro. I am sure they want to up-sell me segmented doors for $2000. Therefore this repair guide helped me make the doors Easy to open for little money.Thanks!
Bob West Glad we could help out! Saving money’s what it’s all about!
My garage door opener was broken 2 weeks ago and I realized it was caused by 30+ years old hinges. By following your instruction, bought the new hardware and springs from local Home Depot, I was able to replace it without any issue (took 2 afternoon). This one piece old garage door likes new again. Very appreciate for your excellent video with detail explanation.
Thats fantastic!!! Glad it worked out for you!
Mike, I was looking for a fairly short video, today, to get me through my job of installing new springs -P728- on a wood garage door just like this one in video. I've done the job and came across your video, tonight and told myself "I'm not watching a 48 minute drawn out video. I really don't have time. I found myself watching this from beginning to end! You really did a great job on this install vide. I am happier than happy that I started it. You refreshed me and taught me things about these setups I didn't even know about. THANK YOU!
Today, it took 2 of us to pull these springs up to get them on the hooks. Then, the door was too hard/heavy. Opening and closing felt too heavy and I was NOT going to install the new carriage until it was much better. I adjusted the bolts on the Adjustable Kicker (4 holes) down 1 hole on each side. This was a huge difference. However, I had to remove springs in order to move bolts to lower holes. Does this sound like the spring hook chain is 1-2 links too short Again.., 2 to R&R the springs. It seems to operate well but, something in back of my mind says this door should be a little more easier to operate.
Again, thank you, for an excellent, top notch, professionally done video! Liked, subscribed and saved this video!
Thanks buddy I appreciate ya watching my vid. sometimes these doors can be so heavy that even a balanced door takes a bit to get it moving… once moving they are ok. If it stops and stays where you want it to then it’s ok. Sometimes these 1 piece doors can only get so smooth that perfection can’t always be achieved, other times if you just play with it a bit longer you can nail it and get that perfection.
@@ALLProGarageDoors Thank you. I appreciate your time in responding. I did get it done and client/customer says all working well, days later. Your video really was a great help that I had not anticipated. I saved it for future reference( cause, when you get older..., you forget shit :).
Thanks, again!
@@standtall7646 😆 indeed… i forget shit alot!!! 👍🏽
@@ALLProGarageDoors YEs. I forgot what we were talking about. Oh, yah. Hot girls in bikinis 🙂
@@standtall7646 Ofcourse! 😉
You are the man, Mike! I have a 32 yr. old one piece steel door with worn out hinges. The main hinge pivot had almost worn completely through the master arm. I had to do something fast. I called 15 garage door companies here in Phoenix, but none would work on a one-piece door. They were all happy to recommend that I spend over $2,000 for a new roll-up door. I'm very happy with my existing door. In 32 years, it has only needed 2 sets of extension springs (easy DIY job). Compared to what my neighbors pay for constant maintenance on their roll up doors, that's a bargain. Thanks to your video I was able to replace the hinges and springs on my one-piece door for $200 and about 4 hours of my time. You saved me $1,800 and lots of future maintenance bills. Thanks!!!
Wow That's fantastic!! you wouldn't believe the crap I get from garage door companies protesting the fact that I put out video's like this. It cuts into their business when you do this type of job yourself. They say it's way to dangerous to show jobs like this, but obviously not since you were able to pull this off...Good for you!! Thanks for watching!
Funny thing is that I tried for months to find a garage door company to do the job. No "professionals" were interested. As for danger, your video shows the proper way to install this kit. I suspect it would be more dangerous for a DIYer to install the E900 kit without having viewed your video. Thanks Again!!
Excellent!! Now you know the limitations of the “professionals” in your area! 😆
Glad it worked for you! 👍🏽
Thank you, Mike, for taking the time to completely explain and demonstrate how to remove and replace one piece garage door hinges.👍 I loved my one-piece door and didn't want it replaced at any price. I'm fairly handy with repairs but was very nervous taking on my R&R job. Watched this video 3 times and then set out with what you teach and 5 hours later, with no hidden surprises, I have my brand new one piece door hinges installed and working perfectly. Getting the bottom of the door gap right would have been something that I would have never considered. My garage door has never functioned so well.👍
Thank you again for putting this together, Ed.
Thank you for this great video. Its very good information for anyone who wants to learn about how their garage doors or DIY folks. Good video🙏👍👍
I must say you make damn fine videos. Well explained and crystal clear. Many thanks for your efforts.
I appreciate you watching Bill and hope the video's help out 👍🏽
Not sure new hardware will solve my problem but after watching this video it’s worth a try and may solve other problems. The door pops open after the machine closes it…sometimes five minutes later! Thanks for taking the time to create and share. Love that’s it’s still being viewed years later.
if the door opens by itself it’s definitely an opener issue. could be circ brd or stuck remote or pinched wallbutton wire.
Thx, I'll check those items.
Did anyone ever tell you that you're amazing. Great job explaining how each part works as a professional. Excellent video
Thanks buddy! Glad to be of some help!
enjoy watching you, you seem look a great trainer for techs, thank you again
This video is awesome! It saved me $800 by replacing my old garage springs myself. Thank you!
Very thorough and useful explanation for this DIYer. Thank you.
Great video! Thank you very much for taking the time to make it. Will save me hours on my single car garage door project.
Garrett Brittle no problem, glad to help out!
@@ALLProGarageDoors Do you need to use 2 Garage door hardware kits for single garage door that weighs under 250? Or will 1 hardware kit work just as fine?
Johnny Griego I'm not sure what you mean by "kit" but when you get the hardware it comes in a box that should be complete minus the springs so everything else in the box should be enough to do both sides of a door.
@@ALLProGarageDoors sorry if my verbiage threw you off. But when I say kit I'm replying to the garage door hinge. Would one hinge work plenty for a 250 lbs door ? And one spring? Or would I have to install 2 door hinges and 1 spring for each hinge? Thank you for your help
Johnny Griego no worries...typically on a garage door you would have one hinge and two springs on each side. So two hinges total and 4 springs for a door that weighs 250. I don't believe that one spring per side would be sufficient.
Thanks very much for this video. It was very helpful! I successfully replaced the hinges on our 1961 garage door today. I added the top brace as you recommended, and it really helped with the stability of the hinges. The old hinges used to wobble side-to-side; the newly braced hinges corrected that. About the only confusing adjustment for me was the "above the knee" kicker, as the door was falling too quickly even with the spring on one of the shortest chain loops. The manufacturer provides an extra kicker bolt on the right side hinge plate. I guess the intent is that you add the extra bolt in the hole below the existing bolt without removing the original bolt, then after the extra bolt is tightened remove the original bolt and do the same on the opposite side (this allows you to move the bolt down in the "above the knee" kicker without unfastening the springs). I stored the extra bolt on the top brace (the extra bolt is provided in the hole I used for the top brace). I appreciated your clear descriptions of all the steps, especially how to adjust the kicker to optimize the lifting power of the springs. The garage door now operates so much more smoothly with our garage door opener. Thanks again for a great video.
Everything you said is correct! Glad you have a good knowledge of how the hardware works, it's amazing how many adjustments there really is on this hardware to allow the door to just float. 👍🏽👍🏽
Hey Mike, thanks for a very informative video! I now "get it" about adjusting the kicker mechanism - my door is a little heavy and I know how to adjust it. Thanks again!
No problem Stephen, glad to help out!!
Very interesting video on installing one piece garage door hardware! When I was a kid, both our garages had the one piece doors. I am actually surprised you can still get hardware for them being that they have gone away from them.
I’d be surprised if the hardware wasn’t phased out in the coming yrs. Some parts are already obsolete like the 1pc truss rods and some truss rod hdwr. But then again i’ve seen some parts go obsolete then a yr or two later they are back in production so who knows. 🤷🏼♂️
Awesome video Mike!
Dude you have such a cool job!
Excellent video. Thanks for sharing it.
thank you for your thoroughly video. it help me replace the side springs on my double garage door.
Hey I want to thank you for explaining, good job amigo, be safe!!
No problem! Thanks Ricardo.... you too! 👍🏻
Highly informative, great video man 👍
Thanks buddy!! 👍🏽
Well done Mike.
You are a great instructor!
Thanks buddy, hope the vid helps! 👍🏽👍🏽
Stupid Cantilevers! Been ripping these swing up doors out for over 20 years. Almost any left are never going to change to sectional. Newer openers are weak, and need to be adjusted just right to work on a swing up. In fact, most say on the box for sectional doors only. Thanks for the info on those!
I would hold on to any older openers for future use. Those old Genie screwdrives aren't being made anymore. They were beasts. The newer Chamberlains are DC and one time getting jammed finishes them off. No more changing out a worn plastic gear. I switched to appliances a while ago and now am doing appliance repair and garage door work. Appliances Cheaper is my channel. Most of the videos are pretty old though.
Thank you for the in depth tutor. Gonna build me a door and use this hardware.
Iam Negan try not to over build it... keep it light but make sure it’s painted inside and out, the key to a good door is the weight and paint.
@@ALLProGarageDoors thank you for the advice.happy holidays bro.
Iam Negan same to you buddy!! 👍🏻👍🏻
Amazing thank you for you detailed video sir
MAMEMAN1975 ... no problem buddy glad you liked it!
Thx so much for posting this.
Byron Camey 👍🏻
Thank you so much that was an incredible detailed video now I can replace the door hinges thank you so much
Awesome Job!
Tanks for the video.
Great job! Very informative. Wish you guys were located up in NorCal, but I think I learned enough to redo my hinge and springs.
Any questions just let me know!
@@ALLProGarageDoors finally getting around to fixing the garage door and finding that the door is rubbing against the garage opener rail and one of the ceiling beams. I'm guessing I don't have the long plate lined up on the door high enough. Or is it that the main plate not high enough? Help! Please. Thanks!
@@spinn1 there are three holes on the bottom of the main plate, the cantelever arm should be in the hole closest to the door… move it to the middle hole on both hinges and the door will turn faster.
@@ALLProGarageDoors at 12:52 in the video, the plate is shown and it looks like the holes that you're talking about, you have the cantilever arm in the first hole, is that correct? You mentioned it should be in the hole (3rd?) closest to the door, but I should move it to the middle hole? Not in front of it at the moment, but I think it's already in the 2nd hole position. I will check later. Thanks!
@@spinn1 my mistake…Factory setting is the first hole farthest from the door, so the middle hole will make the door turn quicker.
Another great video on tilt-up doors Mike..! Wish you were here in south Orange County as our tilt-up has pulled away from the jamb on one side. I noticed that the jamb is slightly split and had the angle iron installed but the original hardware (same as your video) still has a 1/4" space at top between hardware and jamb and so whole is out of balance. Having a hard time finding someone with your knowledge on tilt-up's...but with your video at least I can ask the right questions. Thank you..!
I have a number for a guy up that way. i don’t know him but was told by someone that he knows his stuff… shoot me an email reminding me and i’ll get you his number. 👍🏽
This is awesome and I like it
Noah Mack ....Thanks Noah!!
Very Helpful!
Thanks again!
Very informative; thank you!
Thanks for watching DOD, hope it helps out. 👍🏽
Great video very detailed. I have one of these one piece garage doors and it closes very violently and jerky, got any suggestions?
Check the pivot points for wear and make sure when the door is open that the drive arm is higher at the door than at the trolley and check the door balance by hand.
great information
Mike, great video! I have a question:
My 1-pc door is very heavy; to make the door so it doesn't drop so quickly from shoulder to waste 1) should I move the bolt on the arm to the next closer hole (you said this would provide a large adjustment) or...2) Should I reconnect the springs to a lower chain link..?
Thanks in advance,
Brad
HEY MIKE!~ learning alot through your videos. One issue we've been having is once we get through setup before adding springs we test the door by pushing it open a bit and immediately thr top of the door is hitting the top of the header. We have about 1.5" gap while completely closed but as soon as we swing it open it hits the top. Do we really need a larger gap or is there an adjustment were not using?
good question, the door typically uses the header as a stop or bumper otherwise the door will tuck underneath it. if your not planning on lowering the opening then look on the main plate and near the bottom there are three holes, move the cantelever over to the middle hole and the door will turn faster, if you go to the farthest hole it will turn back immediately but then the garage door opener will struggle with it.
this guy is great
excellent explanatory video, I would like to know what is the length between each point of rotation of the mechanism ?, or where I can get some plane in which detail the lengths, is to see if this system I can adapt to my garage, thanks supporting.
I think you might be better off trying to google that info, not sure you’ll find it on youtube. Maybe you can find the specs somewhere on google.
This E900 site seems to describe the Holmes product in detail : www.onepiecegarage.com/garage-hardware-installation_a/263.htm I have a really bad old installation - maybe this fine video will help me too - still preparing...
Great video. This was on a wood door if you have a 1 car metal garage door not very heavy gauge would you use the same lags to attach to the door or use a different method.? Also not sure what springs I would use? Original installation had roller assembly on each side which bit the dust.
We do more metal than wood, we use fine threaded self tapping screws and a nut on the back side.As for springs i'd say one 728 on each side should work just fine.
@@ALLProGarageDoors Thanks!
At 27:52 you can see the two small holes that are there to accept double-headed nails to be placed to hold the bracket 'square' after it is adjusted 'plumb.' Also, the MFG recommends the replacement of the wood as best practice when the new hardware would need to use the 'old holes,' and filling the 'old holes' with dowels as the next best approach. Given the size pilot holes and lag screws, the best way to install those dowels would be to glue them in place and let them set up a while before drilling new pilot holes and driving in the lag screws.
I mean, if it were my house . . .
Mike What can I do to install the motor in a Durock false ceiling that is flush with the door? Thank you. Ger.
I have a question on spring length.
I commonly see 28",30" and 32"
I know the wire thickness 5,7,9 determines strength and how much weight the springs will lift.
How do you pick the correct length of spring?
My scenario - a rental property with 6 doors, All doors are original and I'm finding 4 spring lengths.
My guess is the repair people use what they have and make it work...
How to you pick the correct length?
Any advantage to a longer or shorter spring?
thanks
A 7 ft high or less would be the 28" 7ft 4" to 7ft 6" would take the 30" and an 8 ft high door would be the 32". if you use a spring thats too long for the height of the door then the door won't stay open when operated by hand because the springs go slack so you gotta have the proper length. The wire gauge is a bit harder to get right without experience and having different sizes on hand to try out but a rule of thumb would be that 2-728s on each side of a double car door can usually balance it if the plywood isn't too thick and the door is what would be considered normal. I can balance most doors with a pair of 728s on each side, if it's maybe a thicker ply or has trim on the face that adds weight so i could do a 728 and a 528 on each side. real heavy doors would take a pair of 528s on each side but your hinges need to be in great shape to take that kind of spring pressure. same goes for single car doors but only one spring on each side.
If I use a one-piece door like this will I have more height? I have a standard type Clopay 4 section door now. I am able to build a door as you did in your other video. Thanks
lostintime86 no... you’ll have less height because the door sits under the header. So you lose the thickness of the door, roughly 2-6 inches depending on if you use steel or wood.
Question..I have a one car door that I want to install this hardware on. I don't plan on opening this garage door often. Just when I'm working on my bikes. Besides everything you have done here, do I need the center track or motor in order for this door to open . I'd prefer not to in order make this a low cost project. Please let me know
Good video !~ Need quick question: my one piece sheet metal door has vintage original horiz roller wheel rails up high (both sides), does this e900 system need those rails which have only 1 roller at top of each side of door ? there is no vertical track at all, just wondering if I should try to keep the existing top tracks and the left and right top rollers to use with the e900 to make it extra safe/ stable ? I'm thinking no, it does not have to have the upper rails as it can do the whole door stand alone, but it probably would make it stronger "if" the exact alignment w existing vintage rail tracks could be made, (its not possible to move the upper rails to accommodate e900 system so e900 is the only adjustment. ) , thanks.
Sorry about the delay… if you switch out to e900 then the tracks will be obsolete. it’s quite a job to switch from jamb track hardware like yours to e900 but totally doable.
Im wondering if I missed something. After you removed both brackets and the door was sitting on the ground how did you support it to keep it from falling out front?
Thanks for the video.
the door is taller than the header beam so it rests against the beam.
Sir I have two 12 foot wide by 8 Foot tall doors to build and install. The E900 hardware kit list that it is for 7'4" tall doors max. Can I make this work for the 8'-0" ? Can not find any hardware for 8'-0" tall doors. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks for the videos didn't think about building the doors until watching your video
Normally the 8 ft hardware is listed as LCJ8, if you can't find it then yes the E-900 can work in a pinch but sometimes balancing the doors can get trick but if you use p-732 springs, you should be fine.
Where can I get just one of the deadbolts that comes in the hardware kit? Every one I can buy is thinner and cheap or a 3/8" padlock shackle will not fit even though they claim it's for that size.
I prefer the shielded hasps, you can probably find them somewhere online.
So if a door is heavy, wont open or stay up new springs would be a start? They are at least 12 years old. I have it on the 2nd last hole on the arm and it is still heavy. Also need to stretch spring about 10-12 inches to hook onto arm.
You need bigger springs, maybe a 528 and a 728 on the same side or even a pair of 528s for the really heavy doors. The springs should have a 1-2 inch starting stretch.
good video. thank you.
what brand of spray do you reccomend to lub all the points?
Carlo Carballo almost anything is better than nothing... maybe a silicone spray or something similar
Thanks for the video, Mike! Super helpful!
I have a question you might be able to answer.
I've done the install, however, when the door is open, the garage door is a bit low in height. Is there a way I can increase the height?
As note, is used the previous master plate's holes in the metal jabs for the new master plate. So, maybe it's due to different equipment? I'm not too sure.
Thank you :)
Yea they rarely sit right using the old holes, you’ll have to see how much room you have to go up and raise the main plates to match that measurement.
Great video
Hi Ben from Australia 40 minute you talk about the normal hole on the plate mine is in the second hole I need to move to the normal hole do I support the garage door take out the springs then move it or can I move it with out taken the springs out. Cheers
That's a great question! By the way... G-day mate!! Always love talkin to the Aussies! You can do it without removing the springs, you have to kick the door out so it's about a foot open then support it with your leg and back then remove the bolt. Now the door is going to want to go down at the bottom and forward at the top and the bolt barely has enough room to come out (there's a washer in there too so don't let it fall out) but once you get the bolt out use your leg and back to force the door to go in the direction you need it to go in order to drop into the normal hole, it's a bit of a juggling act with some finagling but it will go.
@@ALLProGarageDoors Cheers mate thanks.
I just change new springs as per instruction ed and it is working fine. Thank a lot.
I just change new springs as instructed and it is working fine. Thank a lot! How to change the opener, Crusader 220SS? Do you have any video for that?
Not that particular machine but i do have a video on hanging an opener on a 1pc door.
Great video, very informative. I have a one piece galvanized metal garage door (dimensions: 215" W by 82 1/2" H). One of my door side springs broke. I could not determine what size the spring was, it was very rusted. So i looked for a replacement spring about the same size and diameter. I bought 2-P528 springs. After i installed 2 new springs the door would not close, it only partially closed then got stuck. What do think I am doing wrong or have not performed any adjustments. Also how do i determine which are the correct springs for my size and weight of garage door? thank you Phillip
It sounds like you have the right size springs if you tried to match what was already there. It's extremely hard to tell why your door springs are maxed out. maybe this video might help.
ua-cam.com/video/VgxtZlpW9us/v-deo.html
@@ALLProGarageDoors I am 73 years old with heart disease. I am not strong enough to extendP528 springs, any suggestions on other options to extend springs to the C hooks.
@@phillipnajera5224 I've never tried it any other way, maybe a neighbor could do it for you? I think it could be done other ways but rigging up a come-along would be just as much effort.
@@phillipnajera5224 Get a garage door opener ? InventPeaceNotWar
I’m going to put new springs on mine as well as replace some of the bolts. I can get the correct size springs and will use grade 8.8 strength bolts. Too difficult to try to get someone to do it.
If it all goes wrong I’ve had a good life and have written my will 😅
You’ll be fine! 🤞
Thanks for the video Mike. I have one question about locating the top bolt for the main bracket in the door jamb. I searched thru the comments and didn't see any reference so maybe I'm missing something. Starting about 10:10 you talk about measuring down from the bottom of the header 23-1/2" using the template but it looks like you put your reference mark on the jamb adjacent to the bottom of the horizontal 2x4 along the top of the door on both sides not the bottom of the header beam to measure from. What am I missing? I know this is going to determine clearance between the open door and the header where the bumper goes and I want to get it right the first time. I don't have a template but I put the hinge on the garage floor in the open position and measured from the main plate top mounting hole to the angle bracket that attaches to the door and got 20". My door is 3" thick so to locate the top hole in the main plate I should measure from the bottom of the header down 23" then add an inch or two so there will be clearance, correct? Hope this all makes sense. Let me know if you need pictures and I'll e-mail you.
Background: Years ago I got a one piece wood door from a friend who replaced his with a sectional door. I built a door frame in the back of my garage and cut out the wall and installed the door using all the old hardware except I used new springs. That door finally got too old and ratty so I built my own from scratch and am using your video to re-install the hardware. Sorry for such a long question, I used to write engineering process instructions.
The measurements are 20” plus thickness of door ( taken from the side) and that’s it, no adding anymore inches to it just 20 plus door thickness and you’ll measure from the bottom of the header down. Sometimes here in SD we get jambs that are notched around the header and extend above so taking the measurements are harder but just go from the underside of the header down.
@@ALLProGarageDoors OK perfect. Thank you for the quick reply. I'm at that point right now.
Excelente
This video is perfect! I now can confidently tackle my replacement job.
One question. You mentioned adjusting the top and bottom tension rods, but didn’t explain what the target tension) is. What is the goal when tightening these?
the “truss rods” keep the door from sagging in the middle, so if your door looks to be drooping… tightening these rods takes the sag out of the door when it’s open. 👍🏽👍🏽
@@ALLProGarageDoors well hey, that sounds logical! Thanks
My door rubs against the left wall. It pulls to that side. Why would that take place and can it be adjusted?
How it got that way is anyones guess. You’ll need to move the arm on the opposite side slightly to get it to pull the door back away from the jamb.
How cool I figure where to place the main lever on the jam without a template? Thank you.
You measure 19 and 1/2 inches down from the underside of the header beam plus the thickness of the door taking this measurement from the side of the door not the top or bottom. If you have a design on the door that has to be considered as part of the thickness as well. Now that measurement would be where you would drill your first pilot hole for the Lag and NOT where you place the top of the plate.
Hi Mike. minute 11.40 I don't have that tape to know where to put the hardware. I don't know how high to put it. Thanks Mike.
use a tape measure, measure 20” down plus the thickness of the door (taken from the side) and that will be your top hole.
Great video; very informative. But, what can you do if you're not strong enough to pull up and hook the spring on the hook? Is there some hardware that will let you connect the springs, and then stretch the spring? Maybe some kind of adjustable bottom connector?
Depot sells U-hooks for the bottom that adjust as you tighten but its a long process of tightening. There's not as much strength needed as one might think to stretch a spring, you only need 2inches of stretch on most doors. Dip your knees and grab the spring just above the half way point and pin your arms to your sides tight then just stand up, the spring if gripped properly will stretch as you stand. the guy that trained me many years ago was 115 lbs and he easily stretched all sizes... i couldn't figure out how he did it... then he showed me his technique and voila!! it was easy... no secrets to it just proper form.
@@ALLProGarageDoors - Thank you for your reply. I will try that.
Marc I think you can do it!
I learned to do this yesterday. I had a hell of of time gripping the spring while wearing gloves, then I tried it bare handed and it was MUCH grippier and I had no trouble stretching the springs. (still required a good deal of strength though...)
If my installer stripped some of the bolts, where can I get replacement bolts?
Phil L that means your installer wasn’t much of an installer. You can contact Holmes or just go to a hardware store and pick up some grade 8 bolts.
mike what is the difference between the springs SL730-C and the p728? Thank you. Good Sunday.
730s are for a door that’s around 7’4” to 7’6” tall. SLs don’t require W hooks.
As far as lubricating the 5 pivot points, would White Lithium grease be adequate, or is there a specific lubricant you recommend?
I currently use white lithium.
@@ALLProGarageDoors besides lubing the moving parts "inside" the GDO, would you also use white lithium grease on the chain, sprockets, and the t-rail?
yea you can use white lithium on anything really.
When I build my door to fit my opening...what should the tolerances be? I want the door to fit snug as possible as it the room/garage will be a living space when closed. Think more of a flip up wall than garage door. It won't be cycling open and close as much as a regular garage door. I was thinking 1/4 inch gap on each side? Also does the door hit the header at the top to make a nice seal? Or is there a gap at the top also?
Garrett Brittle great question! If your not putting an opener on it then yes you could do a 1/4 inch, with an opener then min 3/8ths and yes the door should touch the header for a good seal.
Perfect thank you. I got one more question - I hope. I want my door to be flush on the inside of the room with the drywall. To do this I was thinking I would make the top of the door fit the inside area of the opening just as the sides of the door do with 3/8 inch tolerance. Would this work? Picture basically a 2x4 constructed door that fits in the 2x4 constructed wall like a plug. Think it can work? I can call or email if needed.
Garrett Brittle , i think it can as long as its not too wide because a double door needs a truss rod to support the sag when its open. If you plan on tucking it in underneath the header instead of butting up to the header then start looking around for whats called “flush mount hardware” not sure if its still avail or not but i would think somebody makes it still.
I think if you use normal hardware you will need between an inch and an inch and a half if you want to tuck under the header... 3/8 above the door I don’t think is nearly enough.
All-Pro Quality Garage Doors Inc. hey man thanks for response. I ended up modifying the header to make the door flush. I’ll record a quick video showing what I did. Build my single car door yesterday also.
Mike Hi, and how wide is the part that bolts to the gate of the hardware? Thank you good day
roughly 1-1/2 to 2 inches.
@@ALLProGarageDoors thank you Mike
Getting ready to finally replace my original Holmes garage door hardware. Why wouldnt the new "hinges" just bolt up with the old mounting holes if theyre the same mfg hinges? Thanks
They can as long as they are the same model of hinges. Older hinges tend to be 1100 series and newer ones 900 series if they don't match the hole location should be different
@@ALLProGarageDoors makes sense. Thx for the speedy response.
I ran into a problem with the 900 series, 1, the actual plate is not the same size as the 1100 series, and because of that the top of my garage door does not sit flush ( I need to shim my garage door about 1/2 an inch. And I suppose my p730 springs are useless because it tilts on the side I replaced. I have to still replace and shim the other side ( Curses Holmes Corp for not making a 1100 kit ) your 900 kit isn't a real direct fit. However I do like the spring tensioner. Now if I can't use my 2 year old p730 springs I might just bit the dust and get what everyone has in the neighborhood... A new sectional door. Hopefully there is something I overlooked. I'm glad I got one side done before the rains come. My garage door is newly painted so I'm not worried about water penetrating through making a heavy door out of it. Still love your video!
The E-900 is definitely different from 1100. the measurements are different, i do believe they say to measure 20" plus the thickness of the door down from the header, but i've found the old measurement of 19 1/2 to 19 3/4 to work better for me. the thickness of the door is to be measured from one of the sides not the bottom or top. 730 springs are for doors around 7'4" to 7'6" high, 7 ft high doors take a 728
@@ALLProGarageDoors would that bring the top back in... It's only out about an inch maybe 1 1/4 I'd think by shimming the garage door would do the trick but definitely notice the door is warp a little when operating with the original bracket on one side and the 900 on the other side, but doesn't rub on the house and my garage door opener still operates. I'm waiting till Thursday to do the other side.
@@robertfaulkner7152 Hard to tell exactly whats going on by your description but you can try it. i wouldn't do anything adjustment wise until you get the other side installed.
@@ALLProGarageDoors I installed the other arm and the door stabilized. All is working good. Definitely having counter weights definitely helped when lowering the door... But honestly two five gallon buckets isn't enough.
@@robertfaulkner7152 That's great, glad to hear it worked out.
Mike good morning, what is the width of the hardware that is fixed to the gate frame, not the gate, Thanks e900
2 inches wide
@@ALLProGarageDoors thank you Mike
This would be perfect for my non standard door opening. Now where to find them in Canada, No luck so far.
Hi Mike, I have a 8 feet high tilt up door. I can't find any e900 hardware for it. Do you know where I can purchase it? Thanks
E-900 is only rated to 7’4” or 7’6” high doors. look for Lcj-8 or Hcj-8. you could also try Apex hardware, its better than Holmes and they make 8 ft as well. try home depot. com or google apex garage door hardware.
@@ALLProGarageDoors Thanks Mike! That helps alot
If I install the door so that the top of the door touches the back of the header, does that mean that the door isn't 100% vertical when it's closed? Does it rest at a slight angle or does the door come down vertically behind the header?
Phil L The door does indeed touch the back of the header and should sit fairly vertically, sometimes they aren’t perfect and could be at a slight angle outward when fully closed...but that is controlled by the cantelever arm and can be adjusted.
Ok, that makes sense. But if the top of the door is hitting the header, what is the purpose of the jamb bumpers (or door stop)? Should it hit the header or door bumpers first?
Phil L In a perfect world you would like the door to hit the header and the jamb bumpers at the exact same time.
Great. I'm going to give it a try. I'm up in Poway so if I get stuck, I'll give you a call. If it all goes well, there'll be a nice YELP review.
Phil L excellent!
Mike congratulations. who makes the hardware now? I need that information and link because Holmes changed owners and they no longer manufacture it, is it the same for any size of gate? mine measures 5.70 meters wide, in feet 18.700787. per 2 meters high, in feet. 6.56168.
try Apex or American. they are usually rated in weight rather than size.
Good morning, Mike. Do you always have to leave your arms flush with your spine? If I have a column that measures 50 centimeters, can I not fix the gate at, say, 25 centimeters? in the middle of the column or gate frame? or it is impossible. I don't know if I can send a photo or sketch here, but I know you understand me. thank you.
any photos or sketches send to info@allproqgd.com
but measurements are never carved in stone they are always fudgeable.
@@ALLProGarageDoors ok Mike thank you
Mike for send my mail I have problems not is valid your email . Thank you, good Sunday
@@ger7941 not more problem with your mail I write bad
info@allproqgd.com
I was on vacation this week i’ll be back to the shop monday.
Good!
In my country is very difficult buy this hardware, Home Depot and Walmart etc. not send to Mexico, who is the new manufacture? Thank you Mike.
You could try either American or Apex brand hinges, maybe they would ship it for you.
@@ALLProGarageDoors thank you mike. Muchas gracias
Good morning Mike, I already brought the e900 with me, a problem, and they made me leave the box at the airport and I don't have the instructions, but I want to ask you. Is the midpoint of the floor to the ceiling of the wall where the arms will be placed taken as a reference? Or how do you get that distance? Thanks, hug. a problem picking it up at Home Depot is one store where the springs were and in another the arms, uffff, wrapping it, etc, so that later they made me remove the box and pay again to laminate it, chaos.
To get the measurement location for the E-900 you measure 20” plus the thickness of the door, from the top of the jamb down
@@ALLProGarageDoors I don’t understand sorry
@@ALLProGarageDoorsthank you Mike thank you
@@ALLProGarageDoors the thickness of the aluminum frame above?
not just the frame but the door
When I click on the homedepot link for the P728 it says it is no longer available this is Sept 2, 2020 Just thought you may update your link
Interesting 🤔 I'll check it out when i get a chance. Thanks buddy!!
so the E900goes up to 350lbs. Those are single doors. I have a double 7'x16' all wood from 1969. I have no way to weigh it. I cant seem to find anything bigger then the E900? does anybody know ones that are close to the Homes 1100 series that I have on the door already?
The 1100 series is light duty. Use the E-900…. much heavier duty. If you think your door is heavier than most you can look around for HCJ-7, that’s pretty super duty but might not be available anymore.
wHAT IF THE DOOR NOT FLUSHED WITH THE STUDS? hOW TO MOUNT IT THEN?
Doziers Home Renovations, Inc the hardware can compensate for it not being flush to a certain extent.
Dumb question, but what was holding the door in place after you removed the old hardware?
I use 20p galv nails...one on each side somewhere near the top
@@ALLProGarageDoors Thanks for the video. It was very helpful.
I do have a question too. Why can't you remove one side of the hardware, replace it with the new hardware on that side and then go to the second side, remove it and then install the new one?
To reword my query, why do you remove both sets of hardware before installing the new hardware? Is it so you can make the adjustments and make sure that the door is aligned properly?
@@danielsweet1799 Good question, I suppose you could do it that way if your satisfied with the height of the door off the ground, if you want the door higher or lower you'd have to release it from both sides onto whatever shim you have underneath the door but short of that i don't see any other reason on you couldn't leave one side still connected to the old hardware while working on the other... just don't attempt to operate it with two different types of hardware in the meantime.
Can the door be opened by remote control with this setup?
Absolutely, just make sure you get a good stout machine, Liftmaster chain drives hold up the best.