My neighbor across the street is exactly 90 years old and when I pulled the car (95 GT convertible) in the first day he came over and wanted to go for a ride. He’s cool as they come. He was just bummed he can’t drive a manual anymore.
I would say the most important mods for sn95 chassis are full length weld in subframe connectors and rear gears. The car becomes night and day different in handling with the subframe connectors. Gears speak for themselves.
@@Theydotheharlemshake 99'-01' New edge look cleaner & a lot better, 03' & 04' Terminators are very undervalued right now, Graig Jackson says in a few years they will be were the BOSS 9's are now, buy low sell high scenario.....
Great info! I have a 94 SN95 with heads/cam/intake/vortec V3 supercharger/T5z trans/3:73s/off road mid pipe/shorty headers/It made 440 rwhp on a conservative tune. I know that’s not a lot of power by today’s standards. My son has a 2011 supercharged Mustang GT that made 650 rwhp and every time he stops by he wants to drive my car! He says the old sn95 is just a lot of fun to drive! Point being these cars are a lot of fun and can be had for not a lot of money...for now
dwrdyts mine doesn’t have a lot of power by today’s standards either lol it made 326hp 324 trq to the wheels but still a crazy fun car to drive! Thanks for the comment and view! 👍🏼
@@Motorfestreviewer you probably have a better HCI setup, possibly more compression, might also be that he isn't spinning it/has a big pulley on the blower so it's not making the power, plus boosted cars usually have a milder cam, especially procharger cars, which means he probably makes more low end torque.
Anyone else notice the giant mosquito on my the side of my head lol!!!! As always guys thanks for watching and be sure to hit the subscribe & like button!!!
Gotta disagree with ya 100% on that one, all I keep hearing is everyone wishing my 4.6 had a 5.0 instead for power. Unless these all are complete morons and know less than even me at this moment which im 2 weeks new to the 97 mustang i bought
Busted Knuckle you are spot on in this video! I have a 1995 GT with a Cobra intake ported and polished with 24 pound injectors, a Pro M 77 MM mass air and a performance chip. The 3.73 gears and aluminum driveshaft are a MUST! I tried the 410 but not good to go down to the Keys on the stretch. Make sure if you change the gears and driveshaft you get an aluminum flywheel also and don't forget about the reinforced U-JOINTS, trust me i blew mine. I have a Kevlar Clutch on mine and I really love it. Haven't done the heads or cam because my SN has been sitting in my garage. I'm older and I'm driving a fricken Buick Enclave now! My baby has long tube headers, Custom X pipe and we live in Miami so she is singing straight out 3 inch tubes. 40'S here so it's time for a time machine. Thanks for the inspiration, my time machine is in my garage right now waiting for some love. Haven't started her up in years. Calling my mechanic because of you. THANKS! This video was one of my favorites ever!
Excellent choice of mods but, I highly recommend having the car checked and if needed corrected for body twist and straightness at a collision shop. Then install a good pair of subframe connectors, such as Global West Competition Subframe Connectors or Maximum Motorsports full length subframe connectors. SN95 Mustang’s are a unibody construction so power is transferred from the rear wheels via the floor pan and roof to some extent on coupe models. Hence they are subject to chassis flex which can lead to squeaks and rattles. And over time door and body panel misalignment or worse. The most cost effective solution is welded in subframe connectors. They are designed to transfer power directly from the rear subframe to the front subframe and avoid the dreaded chassis flex. Also the lower rear torque boxes are prone to damage by repeated hard launches. I’ve seen some damaged beyond repair. Welded steel torque box reinforcing plates will add significant strength and durability to avoid damage. Anyway thought I’d share my experience and knowledge of SN95 Mustang’s. I hope it’s helpful!
I wholeheartedly agree with that rear end recommendation. I have a 97 GT convertible I’ve had since new with 40k on it. I’m not a gear head, so I only wanted to pep it up a bit, and man taller gears made a world of difference.
Global West round subframe connectors (welded in), strut tower race, Ford 3.73s and short shifter and stubbie headers were my 1st mods on the 95 Cobra. Had to build the foundation 1st before the go fast goodies. The subframe connectors, 3.73s and short shifter made a big difference in drivability fun; felt like a totally different car.
Sweet ride man you made me want to try out a 302 powered sn95!! Iv had 3 fox bodys and a 99 gt conv. 4.6 . my favorite though was a 1986 with a 347 stroker with a 750 quick fuel carb. That car waz absolutely nasty it redlined really high and pulled like a freight train!!!
really fast!! I like the 302 much better than the 4.6 mainly because you can make a lot more power for cheaper!! And I really like the sn95 body style, I’ve also thought about doing a 347 stoker build but just haven’t went through with it, thanks for the comment👍🏼
FINALLY FOUND THE PROBLEM WITH MY COBRA!! Which is ironic that your latest vid here covers gear ratio. Let's cover the issues first. Long story short, here were all the ailments that I was chasing while dealing my read end chaos. 1) First and third gears had lots of vibration and rattle type noise coming through the shift knob. 2) Floorboard vibration. It had both a stealthy type vibration and a "symmetrical" tap that I could feel through both the shift knob and the floorboard. Not a hammer on a pipe kind of tap, but a subtle one. 3) I would have this egg shape oscillating vibration most notable in fifth gear after 45mph. Being egg shaped and oscillating if will drive you crazy wondering how is that possible considering everything from the fly wheel back will have to be symmetrical if something is wrong. So keep that in mind while for the past several months dealing with rear end whine after I changed gears from 3.55 to 4.10s. Several months back I decided to go with 4.10s when I heard a couple clicks in the rear end when turning on top of all the issues mentioned above. Figured it would eliminate possibly one issue above plus the obvious click I heard. Also after u-joints got replaced, things went crazy. Long story short, ended up buying a whole new aluminum driveshaft to remove a vibrating issue, which can happen after u-joint replacements (that old drive shaft may have had something to do with the issue that was hiding all along). After 3.55s, the 4.10s had some whine but figured it would quiet down (also rebuilt everything while we were there. Nope, got worse eventually. Took it back, had them put factory 3.55's back in. Soon as I got it back, noise was there again and somewhat worse, just the speed at which it occurred changed. FYI, these guys knew how to gears things in. Took it back. Over the past month, they rebuilt EVERYTHING again but with their parts, even new ring and pinion. During rebuilt, the already knew carbon clutch disks were burnt up, pinion bearing was seriously stuck to the pinion, and one carrier and axle bearing were slightly jacked. Guys tried everything to figured it out. Finally said "F" it and told them to order a complete new rear end from Jasper. Of all the options they had, 327, 373, and 4.10's were the only ones I could consider. Went with 373's. So, with the old rear end off on the ground while waiting for the new rear end to arrive any minute. The head mechanic was just there staring at it like WTF is the issue, will never know, decided to measure the housing where the pinion connects to the yoke one more time. Basically with it off he was able to get more accurate with it. Suddenly, he notices the housing was egg shaped, on a very small scale. Not so much where a new bearing wouldn't fit, but enough to through the alignment off. I NEVER would have imagined it being possible to feel a symmetrical ticking in the floorboard and an egg shaped oscillating vibration at the same time from ONE thing. Figured it would two different things. Never thought egg shaped vibrations were possible unless driveshaft was in a bind. We used a dial but the driveshaft never showed any issues which is crazy. So long story short, with the new rear end, all those ailments are gone lol!!! Far as gear ratios go, I'm differ on 4.10 vs 3.37 for a daily. 4.10s demolished my first gear. I'd get an awesome launch but when it's time to shift to second, even grandma's 6 cylinder would cause me concern when it came to shift from first to second lol. Was shifting way too much in the city and 3300 RPMs at 80mph leaves me looking for another gear. 3.73 is feeling like a happy medium right now. Auto trans with 4.10 may have better RPMs but if you plan to go boost, traction will be an issue with 4.10s. Sorry for the book but the past several months was crazy with this car. As always, good vid!
Re1ik dude I’m glad you finally figured it out I would never suspected it to be that at all!! And yeah man I prefer 4.10s mainly because I mostly city driving but highway driving is a bit frustrating, but I appreciate the comment man and glad you found the issue, stuff like that will drive you crazy.
My 94 cobra is full bolt on. A/c power steering and emissions deleted. Heavily weight reduced. With a built drivetrain and rear suspension with a decently modified front suspension. The mods i have felt the most. Were 4.10 gears, solid motor mounts. Heim jointed rear control arms (upgrade from non adjustable tubular aftermarket ones) and torque box reinforcements (i damn near ripped the stock ones out on a hard launch) car had full length subframes when i got it so i cant attest to that. Other than those things. The only other thing i physically felt was timing adjustments. Now weight and small bumps in power from each bolt on have added up and helped alot but nothing you individually feel in a run
Bushido Bell I appreciate it! And seats I got from lmr.com a little over a year ago I’m not sure if they still sell them but they were the sve s3 seats, there made by tmi. So you if lmr.com doesn’t have them check tmi products.com on google and search there site
Just bought mine today, been up all night listening to exhaust. Bought New headlights, Cold Air intake, Mach 1 Chin spoiler, a new shift knob (putting off short shifter for now) tomorrow i'm going to get a quote on muffler delete and probably do that until Summer when i can put on loudmouths.
@@lollis_garage3683 I had it on my 03 7 years ago and I loved it on the 4.6. Thanks for replying man, I just got my car off the lift at shop just now and found out my stock exhaust is healthy and well and I already have flowmaster mufflers. Definitely going to let it stay that way until I get the loudmouths.
Could you do a video on your fuel pump set up and how you have it run on your carb? What fuel pump do you have? Any info would be greatly appreciated!! Keep the videos rolling bro!
@@lollis_garage3683 Thanks! You got a pretty nice SN95, already subscribed. I'm currently trying to figure out an ECU problem (I will probably need a new one or even a tune) but after that I will post some videos too.
I recently acquired a 1995 SN-95 for free kid thought motor was blown, nope just a head gasket maybe the head. So I ripped out the 302 and decided to upgrade the the block bore and all. Downside it's Automatic.... But it has the 91 F1SE BB thunderbird block Ford wanted to use for the Supercharged TBird, but decided to scrap that idea kept the blocks and some Sn-95's got them, A bit thicker block compared to the regular E7TE's but still afraid to add boost.
I’ve had buddies run boost on stock 302s for years and beat the crap out of them, what kills a 302 is vibration, rpm and bad tuning. I mean of coarse and Absurd amount of boost will kill one as well but I have friends that run 10 to 14 psi on stock block for a while
I knew that a "cold air" intake was going to be mentioned. This is proven to be purely cosmetic. If you are doing it for looks, rock on. Just don't expect any more power. Ford knows better than any small business how to get air into the engine, and emissions don't play a factor in intakes.
Idk.. everytime people say "Get header and exhaust." I listen and do it, but it ends up make the car slower due to back pressure. So I end up wasting money.
Back pressure is an old school myth, you don’t lose any power by doing headers or exhaust. You can only add. Engine masters has a good videos on this topic
@@lollis_garage3683 yeah ive seen those right around $200. I saw a couple for like $50 if they're good they're good you know? Lol might look into it. I also gotta get a hydro ebrake, I'm building mine for drifting
I bought a 97 mustang gt 4.6l onky 28000 mikes , the car is flawless , its has an h pipe on it with catalytic convertes delete . Im not to sure if the headers were changed , how do i know if their stock headers or after market ?
I should be doing my headers soon.. Was thinking tho.. if you went with a trickflow stage1 or anderson n41 cam..you could pick up more power and would probably be very effecient with your heads. The trickflow stage1 cam is very similar to a e303 with the exception of having a split profile for the exhaust. Stage 2 trickflow is where its at tho in my opinion ;-) I know im not telling you anything you dont already know. Just throwing it out there.
HorsePlay Motoring lol it’s cool man I actually have a lunati cam that was in the car but it was .587 int. 572ex. And 240 232 duration at.50 but it’s rpm range is just to high for a stock bottom end car I already found that out the hard way 😂, And I love the trickflow cams! I really thought about getting a stage 2 trickflow cam, but I already had the E303 and so I just put it in for the meantime, until I save up for the 347 stroker. As always man I appreciate the support and comments much love horseplay!! 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
You got the gears wrong in my opinion and a lot of people I've talked too. 410s are better in the auto and 373s are better for 5 speed. Good content tho.
HorsePlay Motoring I hate to ask man but changing my stock gears on the auto transmission does what I’m running stock gears and I see 37.3 and 410 what would you recommend, I do drive it hard flooring it all the time and constant burnouts
Wish I knew what wire that is because I'm getting ready to put a carburetor on my truck got an F250 96 got a zf5 going in it transmission that is it has e4od
Are you sure lol? Drag car or street/strip? If you have a standard and it's your daily, I'd have to say you may want to reconsider. I just went through 4 gears changes in past 3 months lol!!
@@94cobra_kid84 From 3.55 to 4.10s, back to 3.73s right. I have a standard. My 96 cobra is factory and is a 5 speed. I like the 3.73s so far. A little more quick on launches and not running 3300 rpms at 85 mph lol.
I’d start with the bolt ons long tube headers, since you have to pass smog id probably do high flow catalytic converters, some type of cat back exhaust, cold air intake, BBk throttle body. I’d start there and work your way up bro👍🏼
You do know that you can have a cold air intake on a carburetor right You can put it to where it goes into the fender they make this little thing that sits on top of the carburetor and it has a pipe coming out the side of it it's like this cap that goes over the top of it screws down with the wing nut then it has a pipe that comes out and goes over into your fender and then put your filter on right there
I got mine from LMR.com but they no longer sell them so look at TMIproducts.com that’s who made the seats originally and LMR was selling them for a limited time
Hey man I’ve been trying to figure out what performance mods I can do here and still pass smog. I live in California. Do I just need the California compliant sticker or are there other factors? If you know lol
So are all these upgrades worth it? I try looking this up online and people just keep saying that without swapping the engine with a coyote it just won't ever make the same horsepower that even a modern SUV makes. Just seems like it'd be better to buy a newer mustang than dump 10k into parts on a 4k car.
Just all depends on what you want , with a stock bottom end 302 car a safe hp number is around the 550 wheel range which is about what my car makes now on nitrous, but even a nice first gen 13-14 mustang gt is gonna run you 20 to 30k. In my view I like taking the the 4K car building it and making it what I want
What gear ratio would you recommend for a gt 5.0 manual convertible that won't be used to race? We will be driving town but I am going to try and make it comfortable for highway runs to other states.
Angel Gutierrez now on the 4.6 mustangs I probably wouldn’t do cylinder heads, because they’re not to bad from the factory but I would definitely do the rest
BustedKnuckleProduction Thanks man. I’m putting on Flow master mufflers tomorrow. The factory mufflers make the car so quiet and they restrict performance! Ford should’ve known better than making the Mustang GT that quiet.
@@angelgjr1999 save up for a borla stinger with a bassani x pipe, trust me it makes a hell of a difference, and the sound is undescribably badass, there's videos on here of 4.6 new edges running them.
At the time LMR.com was selling them they’re the sve s3 seats but they don’t sell them anymore you can find them at TMI.com now, and I appreciate it 🙏🏼
Stuart McDowell first mods I would do would be basic bolt on such as, cold air intake, exhaust, throttle body, that’s what I would start with, and then go from there. 👍🏼
Stuart McDowell mine are sve s3 seat, I got them from lmr.com but unfortunately they don’t sell them anymore, so look on tmi.com they sell the exact same seat!
@@lollis_garage3683 Yeah It's from my old SC400 before I totaled it doing stupid shit with it. (17yrs old then) It's been laying in the corner of my 2nd cousin's body shop since then and I just remembered I had it after I was working on my 06 Subaru Outback wagon.(There f*cking tanks man) Go figure?
My neighbor across the street is exactly 90 years old and when I pulled the car (95 GT convertible) in the first day he came over and wanted to go for a ride. He’s cool as they come. He was just bummed he can’t drive a manual anymore.
I would say the most important mods for sn95 chassis are full length weld in subframe connectors and rear gears. The car becomes night and day different in handling with the subframe connectors. Gears speak for themselves.
Ab sa freaking lootley
Absolutely
SN95's the "Pocket Rockets" are the best-sized Mustangs, she's lookin' and sounding great, just subbed, keep the vlogs coming.....
mike stang I appreciate it sir!!👍🏼 I love the sn95s for sure! Thanks for the comment and the support!
Personally I think they are ugly, but they are the cheapest now
@@Theydotheharlemshake 99'-01' New edge look cleaner & a lot better, 03' & 04' Terminators are very undervalued right now, Graig Jackson says in a few years they will be were the BOSS 9's are now, buy low sell high scenario.....
whats a good price in the carolinas for them
Instablaster
Great info! I have a 94 SN95 with heads/cam/intake/vortec V3 supercharger/T5z trans/3:73s/off road mid pipe/shorty headers/It made 440 rwhp on a conservative tune. I know that’s not a lot of power by today’s standards. My son has a 2011 supercharged Mustang GT that made 650 rwhp and every time he stops by he wants to drive my car! He says the old sn95 is just a lot of fun to drive! Point being these cars are a lot of fun and can be had for not a lot of money...for now
dwrdyts mine doesn’t have a lot of power by today’s standards either lol it made 326hp 324 trq to the wheels but still a crazy fun car to drive! Thanks for the comment and view! 👍🏼
The things are just so much lighter!!!
May I ask why so little? I also have a 94 with very similar setup but no supercharger and I'm pushing 400+
@@Motorfestreviewer you probably have a better HCI setup, possibly more compression, might also be that he isn't spinning it/has a big pulley on the blower so it's not making the power, plus boosted cars usually have a milder cam, especially procharger cars, which means he probably makes more low end torque.
@@Prestiged_peck Okay yea my fault. I do apologize. Wasn't truly thinking mine is also a 5.0 HO
I just got one ! A 1998 Mustang GT
Only 80k I’m excited. Already got it back on the road now time for mods !
Anthony Rodriguez sounds like it’s gonna be a nice project!👍🏼 94 to 98 is one of my favorite body styles
great, are you planning on posting any videos?
Anthony Rodriguez dude 20 more thousand u could have got a 2020 cobra mustang
@@chrollo_the_collector6779 He did not pay 80k dollars, the car has 80k miles
@@chrollo_the_collector6779 the 2020 Shelby Gt500 you mean, not a cobra
Anyone else notice the giant mosquito on my the side of my head lol!!!! As always guys thanks for watching and be sure to hit the subscribe & like button!!!
Haha I noticed... I didn't know what it was lol but I noticed
94- 98?
94's and 95' have a 5.0 with only 2 overall cats.
Body wise they may be the same, but they are 2 different animals.
Yea this was my exact thought lol
They 5.0 didn’t make nearly as much power as the later produced 4.6
Gotta disagree with ya 100% on that one, all I keep hearing is everyone wishing my 4.6 had a 5.0 instead for power. Unless these all are complete morons and know less than even me at this moment which im 2 weeks new to the 97 mustang i bought
@@KevinTatum88 yeah they are about the same 5.0 being a tad faster
@@loganhembree6164 The 5.0 made the same power as the 4.6 until 1998, where it got a small upgrade to 225 hp.
Busted Knuckle you are spot on in this video! I have a 1995 GT with a Cobra intake ported and polished with 24 pound injectors, a Pro M 77 MM mass air and a performance chip. The 3.73 gears and aluminum driveshaft are a MUST! I tried the 410 but not good to go down to the Keys on the stretch. Make sure if you change the gears and driveshaft you get an aluminum flywheel also and don't forget about the reinforced U-JOINTS, trust me i blew mine. I have a Kevlar Clutch on mine and I really love it. Haven't done the heads or cam because my SN has been sitting in my garage. I'm older and I'm driving a fricken Buick Enclave now! My baby has long tube headers, Custom X pipe and we live in Miami so she is singing straight out 3 inch tubes. 40'S here so it's time for a time machine. Thanks for the inspiration, my time machine is in my garage right now waiting for some love. Haven't started her up in years. Calling my mechanic because of you. THANKS! This video was one of my favorites ever!
Haha my mom drives that car 🤣
The Buick I meant
Did you ever get around to driving it boss??
Excellent choice of mods but, I highly recommend having the car checked and if needed corrected for body twist and straightness at a collision shop. Then install a good pair of subframe connectors, such as Global West Competition Subframe Connectors or Maximum Motorsports full length subframe connectors.
SN95 Mustang’s are a unibody construction so power is transferred from the rear wheels via the floor pan and roof to some extent on coupe models. Hence they are subject to chassis flex which can lead to squeaks and rattles. And over time door and body panel misalignment or worse.
The most cost effective solution is welded in subframe connectors. They are designed to transfer power directly from the rear subframe to the front subframe and avoid the dreaded chassis flex.
Also the lower rear torque boxes are prone to damage by repeated hard launches. I’ve seen some damaged beyond repair. Welded steel torque box reinforcing plates will add significant strength and durability to avoid damage. Anyway thought I’d share my experience and knowledge of SN95 Mustang’s. I hope it’s helpful!
I wholeheartedly agree with that rear end recommendation. I have a 97 GT convertible I’ve had since new with 40k on it. I’m not a gear head, so I only wanted to pep it up a bit, and man taller gears made a world of difference.
Global West round subframe connectors (welded in), strut tower race, Ford 3.73s and short shifter and stubbie headers were my 1st mods on the 95 Cobra. Had to build the foundation 1st before the go fast goodies. The subframe connectors, 3.73s and short shifter made a big difference in drivability fun; felt like a totally different car.
Nice car!
We would love a video about your fuel injection to carb swap.....
very nicely made video. Looks like you have a lot of work in this car, came out very nice. Earned a sub from me.
Captain ThirdGen I appreciate it 🤟🏼
Nice video man....keep it up. Can't wait to do my headers and exhaust.
Riding the Reaper SN95 thanks bro I appreciate it! And once you do it you won’t regret it. 👍🏼
As soon as you said wake up the neighbors, I had to subscribe
dennis braxton I appreciate the support! 👍🏼
Sweet ride man you made me want to try out a 302 powered sn95!! Iv had 3 fox bodys and a 99 gt conv. 4.6 . my favorite though was a 1986 with a 347 stroker with a 750 quick fuel carb. That car waz absolutely nasty it redlined really high and pulled like a freight train!!!
really fast!! I like the 302 much better than the 4.6 mainly because you can make a lot more power for cheaper!!
And I really like the sn95 body style, I’ve also thought about doing a 347 stoker build but just haven’t went through with it, thanks for the comment👍🏼
This is the perfect video for me, exactly what I needed!
Theres a snake in my boot! Lol
FINALLY FOUND THE PROBLEM WITH MY COBRA!! Which is ironic that your latest vid here covers gear ratio. Let's cover the issues first. Long story short, here were all the ailments that I was chasing while dealing my read end chaos. 1) First and third gears had lots of vibration and rattle type noise coming through the shift knob. 2) Floorboard vibration. It had both a stealthy type vibration and a "symmetrical" tap that I could feel through both the shift knob and the floorboard. Not a hammer on a pipe kind of tap, but a subtle one. 3) I would have this egg shape oscillating vibration most notable in fifth gear after 45mph. Being egg shaped and oscillating if will drive you crazy wondering how is that possible considering everything from the fly wheel back will have to be symmetrical if something is wrong. So keep that in mind while for the past several months dealing with rear end whine after I changed gears from 3.55 to 4.10s.
Several months back I decided to go with 4.10s when I heard a couple clicks in the rear end when turning on top of all the issues mentioned above. Figured it would eliminate possibly one issue above plus the obvious click I heard. Also after u-joints got replaced, things went crazy. Long story short, ended up buying a whole new aluminum driveshaft to remove a vibrating issue, which can happen after u-joint replacements (that old drive shaft may have had something to do with the issue that was hiding all along). After 3.55s, the 4.10s had some whine but figured it would quiet down (also rebuilt everything while we were there. Nope, got worse eventually. Took it back, had them put factory 3.55's back in. Soon as I got it back, noise was there again and somewhat worse, just the speed at which it occurred changed. FYI, these guys knew how to gears things in. Took it back. Over the past month, they rebuilt EVERYTHING again but with their parts, even new ring and pinion. During rebuilt, the already knew carbon clutch disks were burnt up, pinion bearing was seriously stuck to the pinion, and one carrier and axle bearing were slightly jacked. Guys tried everything to figured it out. Finally said "F" it and told them to order a complete new rear end from Jasper. Of all the options they had, 327, 373, and 4.10's were the only ones I could consider. Went with 373's. So, with the old rear end off on the ground while waiting for the new rear end to arrive any minute. The head mechanic was just there staring at it like WTF is the issue, will never know, decided to measure the housing where the pinion connects to the yoke one more time. Basically with it off he was able to get more accurate with it. Suddenly, he notices the housing was egg shaped, on a very small scale. Not so much where a new bearing wouldn't fit, but enough to through the alignment off. I NEVER would have imagined it being possible to feel a symmetrical ticking in the floorboard and an egg shaped oscillating vibration at the same time from ONE thing. Figured it would two different things. Never thought egg shaped vibrations were possible unless driveshaft was in a bind. We used a dial but the driveshaft never showed any issues which is crazy. So long story short, with the new rear end, all those ailments are gone lol!!!
Far as gear ratios go, I'm differ on 4.10 vs 3.37 for a daily. 4.10s demolished my first gear. I'd get an awesome launch but when it's time to shift to second, even grandma's 6 cylinder would cause me concern when it came to shift from first to second lol. Was shifting way too much in the city and 3300 RPMs at 80mph leaves me looking for another gear. 3.73 is feeling like a happy medium right now. Auto trans with 4.10 may have better RPMs but if you plan to go boost, traction will be an issue with 4.10s. Sorry for the book but the past several months was crazy with this car. As always, good vid!
Re1ik dude I’m glad you finally figured it out I would never suspected it to be that at all!! And yeah man I prefer 4.10s mainly because I mostly city driving but highway driving is a bit frustrating, but I appreciate the comment man and glad you found the issue, stuff like that will drive you crazy.
Just bought a 95 GTS with 36k miles 5sp !!
My 94 cobra is full bolt on. A/c power steering and emissions deleted. Heavily weight reduced. With a built drivetrain and rear suspension with a decently modified front suspension. The mods i have felt the most. Were 4.10 gears, solid motor mounts. Heim jointed rear control arms (upgrade from non adjustable tubular aftermarket ones) and torque box reinforcements (i damn near ripped the stock ones out on a hard launch) car had full length subframes when i got it so i cant attest to that. Other than those things. The only other thing i physically felt was timing adjustments. Now weight and small bumps in power from each bolt on have added up and helped alot but nothing you individually feel in a run
Great content. Car looks good and sounds good. Where did you find those seats? What brand? I need some for my 98
Bushido Bell I appreciate it! And seats I got from lmr.com a little over a year ago I’m not sure if they still sell them but they were the sve s3 seats, there made by tmi. So you if lmr.com doesn’t have them check tmi products.com on google and search there site
Thanks for the reply
Lol I thought you were going to crash the white car lol. Great video.
Haha nah man we ain’t about that type of mustang life over here! 😂
What size are your wheels and tires/car looks amazing 👌🤙🏻
Moises Rodriguez 18x9 front with 245/40 and rear is 18x10 with 275/40!
And thanks bro!👍🏼I appreciate the comment!
BustedKnuckleProduction welcome bro 🤙🏻🤙🏻
Just bought a 96 cobra convertible i love it only has 75k miles funnnn car love it and its all stock!
Just bought mine today, been up all night listening to exhaust. Bought New headlights, Cold Air intake, Mach 1 Chin spoiler, a new shift knob (putting off short shifter for now) tomorrow i'm going to get a quote on muffler delete and probably do that until Summer when i can put on loudmouths.
Loudmouth is a good choice
@@lollis_garage3683 I had it on my 03 7 years ago and I loved it on the 4.6. Thanks for replying man, I just got my car off the lift at shop just now and found out my stock exhaust is healthy and well and I already have flowmaster mufflers. Definitely going to let it stay that way until I get the loudmouths.
@@chrisperry2754 no problem hope your project goes smoothly 🤟🏼
I used to have a 95 5.0 5 speed, 1st mod where tires, suspension, rearend gears, exhaust and ignition, then e303 cam , tb , gt40 heads ,smog delete
Beautiful ass car !!!
🙏🏼 thank you!
I have a 94 in great shape like yours. I like that set up we need to talk when we are able tire size etc ok friend
This is a FANTASTIC video
Just looking at a 1995 Ford Mustang Coupe 2D for 2300 71k for miles I view it tomorrow before 4 est central time I’ll be following the channel
Could you do a video on your fuel pump set up and how you have it run on your carb? What fuel pump do you have? Any info would be greatly appreciated!! Keep the videos rolling bro!
Vernon Yow yeah I’m sure I could throw that in a video soon! Thanks for the comment and the support!!👍🏼
SN95 GANG!!! 🤙👌
Please dont forget to add an adjustable clutch cable and quadrant with the shifter upgrade it does wonders!
You had me at neighbor 😂😂 nice
very badass! I love the carb swap. Those motors run so much better with the carb
thomas H I can agree with that it feels like it instantly adds hp even on stock motor
Nice video like my 98 Mustang
Thank you👍🏼
Check out my mustang and tell me what you think
Not really happy with my stock '96 but this video has given me some really good ideas.
Awesome glad I could help!
Nice car and awesome ending to the video sounds mean,I might be buying a 95 5.0 tomorrow
Thanks for the information will look at doing it on step at a time 👍.
Just got my 97 SN95 I’m boutta do some mods to my girl now thanks bro
I hear that bro and your welcome 🙏🏼
Keep up the good videos
Dustin Russell thanks a lot bro and I plan to try my best! I appreciate the comment! 👍🏼
I’ll be watching
I like your 94 man i got a 1994 white 5.0 mustang we gonna be starting too get parts for it
Previous owner did 4 and 5 for me, still have to do the rest ;)
QuackGarage hey at least it had some mods already done but good luck with your project and thanks for the view and comment! 🙏🏼
@@lollis_garage3683 Thanks! You got a pretty nice SN95, already subscribed. I'm currently trying to figure out an ECU problem (I will probably need a new one or even a tune) but after that I will post some videos too.
QuackGarage sounds good man and UA-cam could always have more car content 👍🏼
Nice looking sn95( I have a 95 cobra rio red 347 stroker with 355 rear ) you've got my sub
What kind of seats are those I love them
Alon Cullins there sve s3 seats!
@@lollis_garage3683 do you have a link to where I could buy them at?
Jeremiah Trejo look at TMI.com you should be able to find them there.
@@lollis_garage3683 are they comfortable?
MASTER G I think they are comfortable it’s firm but not to firm! 👍🏼
1st mod. Sticky drag radials out back. 2nd mod. 150 shot of NOS for stock motor. 3rd. Exhaust. 4th. 3.55 gears for T5 models and 3.73 for AOD.
I recently acquired a 1995 SN-95 for free kid thought motor was blown, nope just a head gasket maybe the head. So I ripped out the 302 and decided to upgrade the the block bore and all. Downside it's Automatic.... But it has the 91 F1SE BB thunderbird block Ford wanted to use for the Supercharged TBird, but decided to scrap that idea kept the blocks and some Sn-95's got them, A bit thicker block compared to the regular E7TE's but still afraid to add boost.
I’ve had buddies run boost on stock 302s for years and beat the crap out of them, what kills a 302 is vibration, rpm and bad tuning. I mean of coarse and Absurd amount of boost will kill one as well but I have friends that run 10 to 14 psi on stock block for a while
Nice car thanks for your video
hey man if that red zl1 ever goes for sell hmu its like my dream truck, great btw!!
he's a good man!
I knew that a "cold air" intake was going to be mentioned. This is proven to be purely cosmetic. If you are doing it for looks, rock on. Just don't expect any more power.
Ford knows better than any small business how to get air into the engine, and emissions don't play a factor in intakes.
Subscribed!
J. Santiago thanks for the support! 👍🏼
Idk.. everytime people say "Get header and exhaust." I listen and do it, but it ends up make the car slower due to back pressure. So I end up wasting money.
Back pressure is an old school myth, you don’t lose any power by doing headers or exhaust. You can only add. Engine masters has a good videos on this topic
I love my cobra even tho it’s rough
Cool video I got the 95 GT, still got to put a short throw shifter in, and I agree, not much shifting overall haha
Thank you 🙏🏼 and I got the SVE short throw shifter in mine, I like it but I want the MGW.
@@lollis_garage3683 yeah ive seen those right around $200. I saw a couple for like $50 if they're good they're good you know? Lol might look into it. I also gotta get a hydro ebrake, I'm building mine for drifting
I bought a 97 mustang gt 4.6l onky 28000 mikes , the car is flawless , its has an h pipe on it with catalytic convertes delete . Im not to sure if the headers were changed , how do i know if their stock headers or after market ?
I would add the exhaust at the same time as the heads, cam and Intake cause you have to take the headers/exhaust manifolds off to seal the heads
410 automatic 373 rear gear for 5 speed he got it backwards
Greg Smith just my opinion bro👍🏼 everyone likes different things though, I definitely appreciated the comment sir! 👍🏼
My 5 speed come with 373
I should be doing my headers soon..
Was thinking tho.. if you went with a trickflow stage1 or anderson n41 cam..you could pick up more power and would probably be very effecient with your heads.
The trickflow stage1 cam is very similar to a e303 with the exception of having a split profile for the exhaust.
Stage 2 trickflow is where its at tho in my opinion ;-)
I know im not telling you anything you dont already know. Just throwing it out there.
HorsePlay Motoring lol it’s cool man I actually have a lunati cam that was in the car but it was .587 int. 572ex. And 240 232 duration at.50 but it’s rpm range is just to high for a stock bottom end car I already found that out the hard way 😂, And I love the trickflow cams! I really thought about getting a stage 2 trickflow cam, but I already had the E303 and so I just put it in for the meantime, until I save up for the 347 stroker. As always man I appreciate the support and comments much love horseplay!! 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Good video!
that hair tho
You got the gears wrong in my opinion and a lot of people I've talked too. 410s are better in the auto and 373s are better for 5 speed. Good content tho.
Gear1993Head xxx I can see the reason why they say that. But thanks for the comment and the support!! 👍🏼
Its really all personal preference.. my auto is now 3.73 and i love it.
@@TheModAddict i had 3:55's installed on mine auto transmission. Now it a manual transmission. 😀
@@mindandbodymuscle5345 nice.. 3.55 is a decent gear for sure.
HorsePlay Motoring I hate to ask man but changing my stock gears on the auto transmission does what I’m running stock gears and I see 37.3 and 410 what would you recommend, I do drive it hard flooring it all the time and constant burnouts
Was it a stick originally and what are you do about the tack input so the tech works when you put a different distributor in it
Tim Titus I ran the a tach signal wire off the distributor, to the factory tech signal wire so it would work
Wish I knew what wire that is because I'm getting ready to put a carburetor on my truck got an F250 96 got a zf5 going in it transmission that is it has e4od
Tim Titus I’m not sure which pin on the trucks but the mustang is pin #7 you can google it and probably find what you need I’m sure.
Helpin out brutha👍
No problem! 👍🏼
Busted, did I miss it somewhere about correcting the speedo for 3:73 from 3:08? Did you do this?
2wattsout yes I didn’t mention it in this video, but I did make another video on doing it, if you like you can check it out.👍🏼
do you know of a exhaust with catalytic converters that hook too long tubes I still need to pass emissions in Indiana
Mr smiles # I know that lmr.com sells a bbk catted x pipe. That’s supposed to be emissions state friendly. Hope this helps!! 👍🏼
sure does thanks man
I'm in Indy got straight piped gt 95
88 MPH? Great Scott Marty!
Good video
So whats first!?
Intake
Headers
Exhaust
Cam?
Is there a reason why people go shorty over long tubes on these?
Good video. Why did you carb swap it though when fuel injection is more effiecient?
Mainly because I can do the tuning myself, and also hp per dollar is cheaper on a carb set up.
Good info on the rear end gears, I need 4.10 's in my cobra
Are you sure lol? Drag car or street/strip? If you have a standard and it's your daily, I'd have to say you may want to reconsider. I just went through 4 gears changes in past 3 months lol!!
What gearing did u end up with?
@@94cobra_kid84 From 3.55 to 4.10s, back to 3.73s right. I have a standard. My 96 cobra is factory and is a 5 speed. I like the 3.73s so far. A little more quick on launches and not running 3300 rpms at 85 mph lol.
I have a automatic 1994 mustang 5.0 HO 302 all stock, what mods should I do first to add HP also still be able to pass smog
I’d start with the bolt ons long tube headers, since you have to pass smog id probably do high flow catalytic converters, some type of cat back exhaust, cold air intake, BBk throttle body. I’d start there and work your way up bro👍🏼
You do know that you can have a cold air intake on a carburetor right You can put it to where it goes into the fender they make this little thing that sits on top of the carburetor and it has a pipe coming out the side of it it's like this cap that goes over the top of it screws down with the wing nut then it has a pipe that comes out and goes over into your fender and then put your filter on right there
Yes but it wouldn’t make a difference in power I’ve dynoed the car with or without a breather only makes 3hp difference
Carb swap
3.73 gears
Longtubes
Heads
Cam
Have fun running low 12's
Hey man what seats do you have? Those look really good thinking about getting those for mine!!! :D
I got mine from LMR.com but they no longer sell them so look at TMIproducts.com that’s who made the seats originally and LMR was selling them for a limited time
@@lollis_garage3683 hey thanks for replying man I appreciate it!!
Hey man watch a bunch of your videos how do I know what intake I need so I can make it carburetor
Gears
MGW Shifter
SFC
Drop in K&N
Springs/CC plates
...in no particular order
Chido
what distributor are you using?
Isaiah Kidwell hei street fire! 👍🏼
Hey man I’ve been trying to figure out what performance mods I can do here and still pass smog. I live in California. Do I just need the California compliant sticker or are there other factors? If you know lol
I honestly don’t know about the California stuff? 🤷🏼♂️ best thing I can tell you is love to Florida 😂
What kind of seats are those???!
Would a 3.73 run well with the 5spd?
Yes it would be fine
Where can I get a set of seats like that for my 94 cobra?
I got them from LMR.com but they no longer sell them so look on TMI.com you should be able to find them there
Can a 3.55 axle take every mods this car has plus a Nos shot?
Yes it can
@@lollis_garage3683 do you think if I still use an automatic transmission with a heavy duty kit in it can the Automatic transmission take it?
I think the best 2 first mods would be racing seats and coilovers cause the 94' to 98' mustangs were like trucks, literally.
Luke Yeeterman yes sir you aren’t lying! Could drive over small children with a stock one 😂, thanks for the comment!👍🏼
So are all these upgrades worth it? I try looking this up online and people just keep saying that without swapping the engine with a coyote it just won't ever make the same horsepower that even a modern SUV makes. Just seems like it'd be better to buy a newer mustang than dump 10k into parts on a 4k car.
Just all depends on what you want , with a stock bottom end 302 car a safe hp number is around the 550 wheel range which is about what my car makes now on nitrous, but even a nice first gen 13-14 mustang gt is gonna run you 20 to 30k. In my view I like taking the the 4K car building it and making it what I want
Will I need to do anything w tuning if I upgrade my intakes? Do you suggest just putting a cobra intake on my gt? It’s 95 sn95
What gear ratio would you recommend for a gt 5.0 manual convertible that won't be used to race? We will be driving town but I am going to try and make it comfortable for highway runs to other states.
3.73.
well, not everyone can just ~buy a Sn95, i have a '94 base (base) 72k on the clock ..
Smog pump to egr on stock headers??
Does this apply to New Edge too? Same engine.
Angel Gutierrez now on the 4.6 mustangs I probably wouldn’t do cylinder heads, because they’re not to bad from the factory but I would definitely do the rest
BustedKnuckleProduction Thanks man. I’m putting on Flow master mufflers tomorrow. The factory mufflers make the car so quiet and they restrict performance! Ford should’ve known better than making the Mustang GT that quiet.
Angel Gutierrez sounds good man best of luck to you on your project! 👍🏼
@@angelgjr1999 save up for a borla stinger with a bassani x pipe, trust me it makes a hell of a difference, and the sound is undescribably badass, there's videos on here of 4.6 new edges running them.
BustedKnuckleProduction the cylinder heads are on of the weakest parts of the 2v 4.6 they flow terribly
Love your sn95 but it sure does need to be lowered
🕸JACK from PHILLY 🕸 planning on coilovers as soon as I can! It’s on lowering springs now but it isn’t low enough
@@lollis_garage3683 adjustable coil overs maybe? I'm working on getting a 2010 gt instead of the 08 I think what do you think about that?
I love the sound of you car bro really does
🕸JACK from PHILLY 🕸 I like them man I’d go for it!👍🏼
The seat look good in that car. What did you use?
At the time LMR.com was selling them they’re the sve s3 seats but they don’t sell them anymore you can find them at TMI.com now, and I appreciate it 🙏🏼
What heads did u ended up using
Javier Flores trickflow 11r
Gears are great and all, but 3.73’s and 4.10’s completely shatter your cruising capabilities... not my choice for a car that was built to cruise.
I have a ‘98 cobra convertible, any ideas for mods? It is standard from factory.
Stuart McDowell first mods I would do would be basic bolt on such as, cold air intake, exhaust, throttle body, that’s what I would start with, and then go from there. 👍🏼
Hey bud thanks for the quick reply. I will look into them. I’m not liking the front seats any ideas for better ones?
Stuart McDowell mine are sve s3 seat, I got them from lmr.com but unfortunately they don’t sell them anymore, so look on tmi.com they sell the exact same seat!
Thanks once again. Great content
Shifter, gears, subframe connectors and a cheap centrifugal supercharger setup
0:52 Is that standard Chevy/GMC truck for sale? If so, how much?
Jerzey Boy1995 unfortunately no it’s a project truck one of my dads friends is working on.
@@lollis_garage3683 Ah ok. Well I wish Good luck to him/them on that. I'm trying to find a project truck to use my 1JZ in.
Jerzey Boy1995 that would be a sweet swap a 1jz in early 90s truck would be dope. 👍🏼
@@lollis_garage3683 Yeah It's from my old SC400 before I totaled it doing stupid shit with it. (17yrs old then) It's been laying in the corner of my 2nd cousin's body shop since then and I just remembered I had it after I was working on my 06 Subaru Outback wagon.(There f*cking tanks man) Go figure?
Jerzey Boy1995 I’ve always like the sc300, and the jdm version the soarer, fixed up they are super clean cars!!
Curious if you have run it in the 1/4 mile... how did it do?
Haven’t yet there isn’t a 1/4 mile close to me but I’ve ran the 1/8 in 8.2 with a 1.9 60ft so it should run 12.7 or better in the 1/4