I was recently gifted an old set of carving tools & knives that have some rust on them. I haven't gotten around to using them yet because of that, so I will definitely be coming back to this video soon!
I also live in a very humid area. Any oil you use to season and protect a cast iron or carbon steel pan will work. Peanut oil, or any vegetable oil works as well as gun oil or other machine oil. The point is to get a moisture resistant barrier onto the steel. WD-40 is almost entirely mineral spirits, a solvent/cleaner. Its moisture barrier properties are limited, but better than nothing. Re-coat often. Using a strop with carbon steel blades is recommended because not only does it remove the "wire edge" that is left by stoning or even fine sanding, it also "closes" the surface molecules to a slight degree, which helps slow the progression of rusting by not providing a rough surface to get started. Do not strop more than is required toobtain the razor edge. Know when to stop or you will roll the edge.
WD-40 is a penetrating oil. In this case, it is worse than nothing. Its moisture barrier properties are nil. Wired published an article with the results of gas chromatography and mass spectrometry tests, showing that the principal components were C9 to C14 alkanes and mineral oil. (Di Justo, Patrick (April 20, 2009). "What's Inside WD-40? Superlube's Secret Sauce.") IF you live in a particularly humid area, and IF you can detach the blade from the handle, treat it like a cast iron skillet. Heat it to 400-450°f, then let it cool covered in a light machine oil. The blade will thank you.
Thank you, very informative! I read about so many crazy solutions on the web, so I'm glad to know that it is as easy as what you have just shown us!! Now off to the store :)
Handy advice Brian! Especially if you live in a humid climate. I tend to use a mix of beeswax & some oil (linseed, mineral etc} Gets a coating on steel that stays on longer.....Especially around the monsoons....
Luckily I live in a reasonable low humidity part of the world. Although whe do have lots of rain. (the Netherlands ☔) I always wipe of my blades when I'm done. No matter if it is used intensive or just a few cuts. Maintenance is important to keep your tools, and I find it quite relaxing. Cleaning, sharpening, stropping. Brings me in a zen place. 😁
Hey buddies, Brian, the WD in the name WD40 stands for Water Displacement. It works well for highly humid storage of carbon steel. I use it and never had a problem; however, I use those tools fairly often. Maybe long-term is a different story.
Yeppers, but there are also so many different variants too. I'm just being a bit more reserved in my suggestion with what I find to be a good universal opinion
@@CarvingisFun WD-40 variants are of little use for this video. Granted, there are lubricants, degreasers, penetrants, silicone, contact cleaner and even heavy grease, the website tells us that the formulation, although a tightly guarded secret, is 50% mineral spirits, petroleum distillates and a propellant. It does say that "The product’s formulation also contains anti-corrosion agents and ingredients for penetration, water displacement and soil removal." It claims to be a rust protection, but not a rust remover. If the product can get under the rust it might break it loose. After using WD-40 for nearly 40 years, in my opinion, you'd be better off with a machine oil.
100% no. Unless you are really good you may end up with an inconsistent and wavy edge. Flat sharpening surfaces provide a consistent flat surface to create an even edge. Plus I doubt the sandpaper was at the right abrasive level for anything more than a rough grind on an edge.
That's a shortcut for people who know what the hell they're doing, like my dad, since he's passed I've had to learn how to do all of this myself! He knew how to machine airplane/elevator parts, so his engineering and Fabrication skills were totally on point unlike most of us. He had a rotary buffer that he put all sorts of grit/heads on and knew exactly how to use each of them for effect, I would undoubtedly mess up my blades trying to sharpen and buff them if I tried and I watched him for the last 20 years not understanding what he was doing.... Most of us have no business playing with such tools, we should stick to sandpaper and a whetstone : )
Even if you can't see it a Dremel will burn the fine cutting edge on a whittling blade. You can use that idea on a harder steel in a pocket or straight knife because the blade is thicker. Trying to get something as sharp as blades in this video can be ruined by a course sandpaper running as fast as a Dremel's 1,000 RPM.
Bro , i really love your videos, it gives me inspiration and gave me pretty good ideas, will you please make some new videos about carving on wood with something like Dremel tool ? I really love the way how you make pretty awesome work, thanks alot bro, from Russia with love
Well, if you want a summary of what my experiences were with thr knives, they were dull, appeared to be sharped on cement, uncomfortable handles, too thick of a blade, and the blade wasnt properly secured so it wobbled. All of this for thr cost of 2 or 3 beavercraft knives which are vastly superior. But this has given me an idea for an angle ona video idea floating in my head... gonna workshop it a bit more and see if I can make an enjoyable video out of this.
Can you do more giveaways I missed the last one because I just started to watch your channel and keep on making good video’s I Love watching your channel and I witle to.
Sorry to say, but that type of pitting comes from cheap knives made in Pakistan or China. They get the slag out of it, but it's not pure carbon steel. Every carving and whittling video that I've seen, all of them, bar none, has this kind of pitting. The difference is whether or not rust gets in there through humidity or skin contact or even if it's lubricated with something that won't keep water out long term. You've seen videos of someone making a blade? They forge the steel, hammer it out to the desired shape, and quench it. Then they sand it on a belt to make it smooth. If the steel is cast into that shape, it will have pits and uneven hills and valleys because of the poor casting medium. The blades are machine ground to the blade shape. QC is very poor. There is a lot of pitting. Even the better pieces will result in very small pits that will continue to rust for the life of the blade. It is very important to keep all tools clean and oiled. Blades must be sharpened and oiled with much more care. Do not use WD-40. WD-40 is either a penetrating oil or a petroleum distillate depending on the formula. Ballistol is a similar formulation, but is used for firearms. It will penetrate a rusty screw or hinge, but it won't preserve against rust like an oil will. Use a machine oil. 3-in-1 is a good choice.
ua-cam.com/video/yaUfvTD2JzI/v-deo.html bonjour Brian, pour affûter la lame d’acier et en ôter les points de rouille, faut-il humecter le papier abrasif ? Merci pour ta réponse et cette vidéo instructive. Michèle
You don't have to moisten the sandpaper. But some sharpening stones are designed to use water or oil and it would be wise to read the sharpening stone instructions.
yes of course, no doubt that for wood, it is not useful to wet the sandpaper, whereas for metal it is. So much the better, it will save time and cleanliness. thank you for your answer, Michele
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I was recently gifted an old set of carving tools & knives that have some rust on them. I haven't gotten around to using them yet because of that, so I will definitely be coming back to this video soon!
You could not have made this video at a better time for me, I just noticed some rust on one of my hook knives. Thanks for your great videos!
I also live in a very humid area. Any oil you use to season and protect a cast iron or carbon steel pan will work. Peanut oil, or any vegetable oil works as well as gun oil or other machine oil. The point is to get a moisture resistant barrier onto the steel.
WD-40 is almost entirely mineral spirits, a solvent/cleaner. Its moisture barrier properties are limited, but better than nothing. Re-coat often.
Using a strop with carbon steel blades is recommended because not only does it remove the "wire edge" that is left by stoning or even fine sanding, it also "closes" the surface molecules to a slight degree, which helps slow the progression of rusting by not providing a rough surface to get started. Do not strop more than is required toobtain the razor edge. Know when to stop or you will roll the edge.
WD-40 is a penetrating oil. In this case, it is worse than nothing. Its moisture barrier properties are nil.
Wired published an article with the results of gas chromatography and mass spectrometry tests, showing that the principal components were C9 to C14 alkanes and mineral oil. (Di Justo, Patrick (April 20, 2009). "What's Inside WD-40? Superlube's Secret Sauce.")
IF you live in a particularly humid area, and IF you can detach the blade from the handle, treat it like a cast iron skillet. Heat it to 400-450°f, then let it cool covered in a light machine oil. The blade will thank you.
@@MR2Davjohn WD-40 is a decent enough barrier for very short term in humid conditions, but yes, I agree. The cast iron skillet analogy is applicable.
Thank you, very informative! I read about so many crazy solutions on the web, so I'm glad to know that it is as easy as what you have just shown us!! Now off to the store :)
Sometimes the simplest solution is the best solution :)
Handy advice Brian! Especially if you live in a humid climate. I tend to use a mix of beeswax &
some oil (linseed, mineral etc} Gets a coating on steel that stays on longer.....Especially around the monsoons....
Never considered beeswax, and I have several bars of pure beeswax laying around as a finish for my stone carvings
Super useful! Thank you!
Luckily I live in a reasonable low humidity part of the world. Although whe do have lots of rain. (the Netherlands ☔)
I always wipe of my blades when I'm done. No matter if it is used intensive or just a few cuts. Maintenance is important to keep your tools, and I find it quite relaxing. Cleaning, sharpening, stropping. Brings me in a zen place. 😁
Hey buddies, Brian, the WD in the name WD40 stands for Water Displacement. It works well for highly humid storage of carbon steel. I use it and never had a problem; however, I use those tools fairly often. Maybe long-term is a different story.
Yeppers, but there are also so many different variants too. I'm just being a bit more reserved in my suggestion with what I find to be a good universal opinion
@@CarvingisFun WD-40 variants are of little use for this video. Granted, there are lubricants, degreasers, penetrants, silicone, contact cleaner and even heavy grease, the website tells us that the formulation, although a tightly guarded secret, is 50% mineral spirits, petroleum distillates and a propellant. It does say that "The product’s formulation also contains anti-corrosion agents and ingredients for penetration, water displacement and soil removal." It claims to be a rust protection, but not a rust remover. If the product can get under the rust it might break it loose. After using WD-40 for nearly 40 years, in my opinion, you'd be better off with a machine oil.
Your video was very interesting and useful👍
i saw someone sharpen a blade with a sandpaper tip on a dremel before , would you advise this ?
100% no.
Unless you are really good you may end up with an inconsistent and wavy edge. Flat sharpening surfaces provide a consistent flat surface to create an even edge. Plus I doubt the sandpaper was at the right abrasive level for anything more than a rough grind on an edge.
That's a shortcut for people who know what the hell they're doing, like my dad, since he's passed I've had to learn how to do all of this myself! He knew how to machine airplane/elevator parts, so his engineering and Fabrication skills were totally on point unlike most of us. He had a rotary buffer that he put all sorts of grit/heads on and knew exactly how to use each of them for effect, I would undoubtedly mess up my blades trying to sharpen and buff them if I tried and I watched him for the last 20 years not understanding what he was doing....
Most of us have no business playing with such tools, we should stick to sandpaper and a whetstone : )
Even if you can't see it a Dremel will burn the fine cutting edge on a whittling blade. You can use that idea on a harder steel in a pocket or straight knife because the blade is thicker. Trying to get something as sharp as blades in this video can be ruined by a course sandpaper running as fast as a Dremel's 1,000 RPM.
Bro , i really love your videos, it gives me inspiration and gave me pretty good ideas, will you please make some new videos about carving on wood with something like Dremel tool ? I really love the way how you make pretty awesome work, thanks alot bro, from Russia with love
I have plans on moving in this direction :) already have the tools, just working my way down the list of fun ways to carve.
@@CarvingisFun am waiting hope you do it soon, thanks again bro
Use REN Wax to protect tools
I kinda want to see you try out some carving knives from like a hobby store or like an Atwood’s if you have one
Oh, I've considered it. Actually had one a while ago but it was soooooo bad. I didn't want to waste my viewers time showing them what I found.
Nah I’ve been wanting to see something like that for a while or like you can also review different wet stones
Well, if you want a summary of what my experiences were with thr knives, they were dull, appeared to be sharped on cement, uncomfortable handles, too thick of a blade, and the blade wasnt properly secured so it wobbled. All of this for thr cost of 2 or 3 beavercraft knives which are vastly superior.
But this has given me an idea for an angle ona video idea floating in my head... gonna workshop it a bit more and see if I can make an enjoyable video out of this.
Can you do more giveaways I missed the last one because I just started to watch your channel and keep on making good video’s I Love watching your channel and I witle to.
Yeppers! The next one is at 500k subs :)
👍👍👍
Sorry to say, but that type of pitting comes from cheap knives made in Pakistan or China. They get the slag out of it, but it's not pure carbon steel. Every carving and whittling video that I've seen, all of them, bar none, has this kind of pitting. The difference is whether or not rust gets in there through humidity or skin contact or even if it's lubricated with something that won't keep water out long term.
You've seen videos of someone making a blade? They forge the steel, hammer it out to the desired shape, and quench it. Then they sand it on a belt to make it smooth.
If the steel is cast into that shape, it will have pits and uneven hills and valleys because of the poor casting medium. The blades are machine ground to the blade shape. QC is very poor. There is a lot of pitting. Even the better pieces will result in very small pits that will continue to rust for the life of the blade.
It is very important to keep all tools clean and oiled. Blades must be sharpened and oiled with much more care. Do not use WD-40. WD-40 is either a penetrating oil or a petroleum distillate depending on the formula. Ballistol is a similar formulation, but is used for firearms. It will penetrate a rusty screw or hinge, but it won't preserve against rust like an oil will. Use a machine oil. 3-in-1 is a good choice.
It always makes me laugh when I see the 3-in-1 oil can is rusty.
Lordy, its true though!
Have you ever tried Carving a Baby groot ?
Ive considered it, it does sound like a fun little project
ua-cam.com/video/yaUfvTD2JzI/v-deo.html bonjour Brian, pour affûter la lame d’acier et en ôter les points de rouille, faut-il humecter le papier abrasif ? Merci pour ta réponse et cette vidéo instructive. Michèle
You don't have to moisten the sandpaper. But some sharpening stones are designed to use water or oil and it would be wise to read the sharpening stone instructions.
Merci de ces précisions. Toutes es vidéos techniques sont particulièrement intéressantes.
yes of course, no doubt that for wood, it is not useful to wet the sandpaper, whereas for metal it is. So much the better, it will save time and cleanliness. thank you for your answer, Michele