@@PaulTakesPhotos The fact that you use single focus for street photography instead of zone which is often said that is the best for street photography. Also the use of aperture of 5.6 as the best average.
Little difficult to understand is about Kelvin but will use automatic WB. And which metering are u using? You mentioned them but which one to use as the best for street/holiday?
Hi, assuming you are shooting with the Fujifilm XT30ii. For daylight I'd go for my favourte Agfa Optima & Monochrome Negative. For the night xpro 62 or Cinestill 800t. Hope this helps
I love using Konica manual lenses on my X-E2. The 28mm is great for zone focusing at f11, pretty much just point and shoot, everything will be in focus. The 40mm 1.8 and 50mm 1.7 are great too. I mostly use the Monochrome Red film sim and it looks great with these old Konica lenses, they are super contrasty. I am thinking about upgrading to the X-T30 and taking these Konica lenses with me. Thanks for the video!
I’ve never done street photography. So your settings for my Fuji xt30ll are of great interest to me. I’m basically going to be teaching myself how to shoot street photography. I’ve also never heard of using Kelvin to set up the white balance. I’m looking forward to giving that a try. More videos like this one please. I’ve subscribed to your channel. Did I see poki bowl in the background of one of your shots? I used to live in Honolulu, actually Waianae, for 20 years. I’ll be spending a month in Nanakuli this month. Anyway, keep these great clips coming. Aloha🌴🍣🏄🏻♂️🌋⚓️
Is it only my experience that the exposure compensation dial is kinda tight to turn? Because of that I end up pushing the function which is in front of it all the time. Is your X-T30 II the same?
Very interesting Paul! What is your third favorite recipe? You mentioned Agfa Optima 200 and Kodachrome l v2 but not the third one. And where can I find these recipes? Regarding DR400, I do not really understand why your highlights get blown out when it is supposed to work as a highlight protection or does it only happen in combination with clarity? I find that with DR400 the photos sometimes look a bit too soft in contrast.
The third one I had to edit out as I botheched it up completely but it is portra 400 found of Fujifilm weekly (all film Sims there). I noticed that clarity and DR400 can be in a lot of cases harmful to shadows and highlighta.
@@PaulTakesPhotosOk, thank you! I normally don't use clarity because it slows down the camera but never had any issues with DR400% (other than that it sometimes makes the photo too flat for my taste, especially when combined with a negative shadows setting).
Hi Marco, it is shot with the Agfa Optima 200 film recipe with film sim Vivid. It brings out the orange and yellow well. Another film recipe I tend to experiment with is the Kodachrome I V2 this recipe is a bit strong on the orange so important to tweak the WB. Interestingly when I paired my XT30II with the yashica 50mm f/1.7 (vintage lenns) the Agfa recipe suddenly becomes even better as it seems to render orange and yellow slightly different
Thank you Paul! By the way, Agfa Optima 200 is based on PROVIA, and colours are not so popping in my experience. What do you mean film sim Vivid? Perhaps you used VELVIA instead of PROVIA using the same recipe of Agfa?
I cannot get my camera to take a photo in my apartment at night (with lights). I have the lense and drive dial set to A. It shows "A" mode on my screen, but then its showing my shutter speed is 2" or 8", then it takes 20 seconds to take a photo? I dont know what is going on. I'm new to this camera and i am getting discouraged.
Switch to M, open up your aperture to the lowest value (f/ ) and art your shutterspeed to 1/50 sec and increase your iso to 1600-6400. In low light shooting handheld can be tricky, I normally shoot at the maximum aperture (lowest fstop), set my shutterspeed manually to 1/50-1/00 and crack up the iso. Additionally you can keep your current settings but just put your camera on a solid surface or tripod. Hope this helps
Good video, basic photocentric, at least we can see there are no thousand useless modes which make this camera interesting. I have been waiting for a simple camera like this, BUT with iBIS and full frame......I am still waiting.....of course I know it wont come from Fuji. This XT30 is still 1000€ ... way high !
Well thete is a full frame basic camera, pure simplicity and mind blowing image quality. Leica Q series. I own the Q has same lens as Q3 and is "only" 2200-2700. Bucks used... Love that camera. That said Fujifilm won't produce anything full frame. I would advise the xt20 used. Less film Sims but the most important ones are there. Same menus, same customization
That would be too wide. 56mm minimum best prime probably the 90mm focal length. Distance between track and the crow is significant. Zoom lens would be better
@@heyjeon1840 split your total budget into three parts: - camera - lens (pick one within the budget) - accessories (extra batteries) Go out and shoot and take your time :) so much fun
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Thanks Paul. This video is really important for me, as I am a XT30ii new user
Thank you so much Rajdeep! You must made my day ⭐👍
@@PaulTakesPhotos Your welcome Paul. Can you teach me more on how to polish my skills and how to use my camera like a pro?
Many thanks. This is so helpful and was waiting for this video 🎉
Thanks you! Don't mind me asking but which of the settings discussed were you unaware of or never used? Just curious
@@PaulTakesPhotos The fact that you use single focus for street photography instead of zone which is often said that is the best for street photography. Also the use of aperture of 5.6 as the best average.
Little difficult to understand is about Kelvin but will use automatic WB. And which metering are u using? You mentioned them but which one to use as the best for street/holiday?
Thank you so much Paul! Happy new year
Glad you found it helpful. Stay tuned for a tutorial on shooting time-lapse on the XT30II (low light, harsh light, astro!)
Hi,which film simulation and setting do you recommend for the street in Tokyo?Thanks
Hi, assuming you are shooting with the Fujifilm XT30ii. For daylight I'd go for my favourte Agfa Optima & Monochrome Negative. For the night xpro 62 or Cinestill 800t. Hope this helps
Yes!Thank you!
I love using Konica manual lenses on my X-E2. The 28mm is great for zone focusing at f11, pretty much just point and shoot, everything will be in focus. The 40mm 1.8 and 50mm 1.7 are great too. I mostly use the Monochrome Red film sim and it looks great with these old Konica lenses, they are super contrasty. I am thinking about upgrading to the X-T30 and taking these Konica lenses with me. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for the Konica recommendations, highly appreciated! And I will try the film sim :) xt30 is a great choice, enjoy it
I’ve never done street photography. So your settings for my Fuji xt30ll are of great interest to me. I’m basically going to be teaching myself how to shoot street photography. I’ve also never heard of using Kelvin to set up the white balance. I’m looking forward to giving that a try. More videos like this one please. I’ve subscribed to your channel. Did I see poki bowl in the background of one of your shots? I used to live in Honolulu, actually Waianae, for 20 years. I’ll be spending a month in Nanakuli this month. Anyway, keep these great clips coming. Aloha🌴🍣🏄🏻♂️🌋⚓️
Some great scenery youre in :) I will be producing more content like this. Stay tuned and enjoy your photography
Is it only my experience that the exposure compensation dial is kinda tight to turn? Because of that I end up pushing the function which is in front of it all the time. Is your X-T30 II the same?
The exposure comp. dial is indeed a bit tight, with use it will get a little bit more flexible indeed.
@@PaulTakesPhotos I sure hope so, thanks!
Saving this for later, you might've prevented me from giving up on the XT50 🔥
@@sebastianfernandez6146 in what way have I prevented you? Curious as usual
@@PaulTakesPhotos I am coming from the GRIIIX so this was very helpful in making the transition from point and shoot to the XT50
That is good news, you've just given me a huge motivational boost :)
Very interesting Paul! What is your third favorite recipe? You mentioned Agfa Optima 200 and Kodachrome l v2 but not the third one. And where can I find these recipes? Regarding DR400, I do not really understand why your highlights get blown out when it is supposed to work as a highlight protection or does it only happen in combination with clarity? I find that with DR400 the photos sometimes look a bit too soft in contrast.
The third one I had to edit out as I botheched it up completely but it is portra 400 found of Fujifilm weekly (all film Sims there).
I noticed that clarity and DR400 can be in a lot of cases harmful to shadows and highlighta.
@@PaulTakesPhotosOk, thank you! I normally don't use clarity because it slows down the camera but never had any issues with DR400% (other than that it sometimes makes the photo too flat for my taste, especially when combined with a negative shadows setting).
Thanks for the video. Which is the film sim and recipe that you used for making the yellows pop out so much in the samples shown?
Hi Marco, it is shot with the Agfa Optima 200 film recipe with film sim Vivid. It brings out the orange and yellow well. Another film recipe I tend to experiment with is the Kodachrome I V2 this recipe is a bit strong on the orange so important to tweak the WB.
Interestingly when I paired my XT30II with the yashica 50mm f/1.7 (vintage lenns) the Agfa recipe suddenly becomes even better as it seems to render orange and yellow slightly different
Thank you Paul! By the way, Agfa Optima 200 is based on PROVIA, and colours are not so popping in my experience. What do you mean film sim Vivid? Perhaps you used VELVIA instead of PROVIA using the same recipe of Agfa?
And also, what version of Kodachrome you mean? Based on PRO NEG std.?
You are right it is Provia.in original recipe but I changed it too velvia
Indeed
I just found that you can disable the "Q" Button, so, I have turned mine off for now.
I cannot get my camera to take a photo in my apartment at night (with lights). I have the lense and drive dial set to A. It shows "A" mode on my screen, but then its showing my shutter speed is 2" or 8", then it takes 20 seconds to take a photo? I dont know what is going on. I'm new to this camera and i am getting discouraged.
Switch to M, open up your aperture to the lowest value (f/ ) and art your shutterspeed to 1/50 sec and increase your iso to 1600-6400.
In low light shooting handheld can be tricky, I normally shoot at the maximum aperture (lowest fstop), set my shutterspeed manually to 1/50-1/00 and crack up the iso. Additionally you can keep your current settings but just put your camera on a solid surface or tripod. Hope this helps
in bright daylight I go for ND filter 😆
Good video, basic photocentric, at least we can see there are no thousand useless modes which make this camera interesting. I have been waiting for a simple camera like this, BUT with iBIS and full frame......I am still waiting.....of course I know it wont come from Fuji. This XT30 is still 1000€ ... way high !
Well thete is a full frame basic camera, pure simplicity and mind blowing image quality. Leica Q series. I own the Q has same lens as Q3 and is "only" 2200-2700. Bucks used... Love that camera. That said Fujifilm won't produce anything full frame.
I would advise the xt20 used. Less film Sims but the most important ones are there. Same menus, same customization
Hello. I'm gonna be bringing my xt30 ii for f1 grand prix but only with my 15-45mm lens. Can I still capture the cars beautifully?
That would be too wide. 56mm minimum best prime probably the 90mm focal length. Distance between track and the crow is significant. Zoom lens would be better
@@PaulTakesPhotos ohhh really okay thank you for the response! I'm a beginner so I don't know what to do
@@heyjeon1840 split your total budget into three parts:
- camera
- lens (pick one within the budget)
- accessories (extra batteries)
Go out and shoot and take your time :) so much fun
@@PaulTakesPhotos Thank you so much! I just bought my fuji X-T30 II with 14-45mm lens. It's the lens I could most afford right now
@@PaulTakesPhotos do you charge your camera via usb-c (if so, what power-brick do you use) or charge the batteries with a battery charger?