Very helpfull - ive bought a 1920 with 800 genuine hours and its 3pl is bouncing with a load on it , so am just about to embalk on doung the same check now . 😊
Good luck 👍, my tractor is still working great and it's been 3 years since I posted this video. The hardest part is trying to get the seal over the piston, but once you get that, the job is pretty easy. I am glad the video helped out. Take care and God bless.
Your video inspired me to buy the seal and the O rings and give it a try. I have a 1910 model made in 1983. There was almost nothing left of the seal, but all of the O rings still looked great. It was an easy cheap fix for a nagging problem. Thank you so much!!
Thank you! I have two 1320s and have been afraid to do anything hydraulic related until now. I will be subscribing and checking out the rest of your videos.👍🤝
This was a fantastic video, not one second of "oh for crying out loud.....do we have to watch this guy wash all the parts, etc.". YOu know what I mean. I know this is three years late but would a 'shuddering' as the three point is adjusted when box blading be of the same issue? This old 94 Honda 6522 I picked up runs and operates perfect with the exception of not being very smooth on 'creeping' the 3pt. stick on the fly. So the best I can do to explain the lack of response from stick to action of implement makes for a headache grading a road smooth! I'm not sure if I'm understanding the bounce or hunt is the same problem. I have heard others mention their problem was like the system was constantly reacting up and down without stick input? Mine holds, adjusts great for draft control, holds in position once set, it's just hell trying to make small adjustments to the 3pt. for hi-lo grade corrections and of course the shudder when dropping the hitch down. Thanks, I could have sworn you were a tractor mechanic for how you went about taking on your problem. Have a great Day!
Ted. Sorry to bother you again. Would you happen to have the Part or Spec number for the Hydraulic Filter for the 1920? New Holland is telling me there is various types for this tractor. If you dont have it written down somewhere, dont worry about it. I am sure I can find out. I just figured I would ask someone who has dome it before . Seems like Ford new holland mechanics only know about new equipment. My email is jasonbradley1920@gmail.com.
@@jasonbradley7973 - Looking at the parts manual, I am showing a Baldwin filter BBT8505. My tractor is at a friends house right now. I will call him today to see what filter is on my tractor and let you know.
I guess I am going to do this pretty quick. I have a 1920 purchased by my dad in 1990. The lift just started to hiccup. I will replace the hydraulic filter first to see if that is the issue. This is the only issue this tractor has ever had.
Hi Jason, most likely it is the piston seal. The 3 point starts to hiccup because the seal is allowing hydraulic fluid to leak through which is causing the 3 point to intermittently fail as the pump is doing it's best keep it where it belongs. The job isn't too hard though. I hope this video helps you out. Take care and good luck.
I am glad it helped. The whole job only took me about an hour. For me the hardest part was getting the seal over the piston. There is a good UA-cam video showing you how to do it. If you need the video let me know.
@@tedpappas1559 I'll search for it. My tractor isn't very bad yet, more aggravating than anything right now. I have a video of mine on my channel. I need to do an update since it's changed a lot since then.
I am glad the video helped. I am not sure if the seal is the exact same for the 1720 as it is for the 1920. You can try calling www.messicks.com/ to see if they can help. That is where I bought mine.
I already got the rubber O rings from Messicks (buy from there all the time) but dont' know why they did not include the oil seal. My fault for not realizing your the 1920 not 1720, I got the seal locally, which you listed and apparently it is different because it is just a little too big. I'll call Messicks in the am. @@tedpappas1559 Again, thanks for the video- I am sure this is the fix. Was your hydro fluid milky. mine was- guess I now need to know the capacity for a full drain and fill.
Replacing the seal definitely worked for me. I have no trouble with my 3 point bouncing anymore, even with heavy implements. My hydro fluid was not milky, so most likely you got some water in there and should change out your fluid. Good luck 😀👍 @@erichouwen3771
having trouble kicking out of 3rd gear at full throttle with piece of equipment attached. It does not grind putting in gear or taking it out. It has only 1100 hundred hours on it. what could cause this?
Ted does that cylinder have any affect on the front loader. I have no hydraulics on my on my 1920 Ford tractor the loader and the three point went out at the same time?
My Ford f1700 loader and backhoe is jerking but the backhoe and thenloader I don't use the 3 point . And it moes slow I add hydraulic fluid and more and more and nothing . I can have high rpms and still loader or backhoe move hella slow
Hi, I just tried changing my lift cylinder gaskets. Looks like they sent me parts for another Ford. The O-ring is way too big, cant get cylinder even close to putting it on. Then they sent me a split ring plastic thin ring for the inside. Where did you Order yours from? Thanks.
C@@tedpappas1559thanks for the reply. I went back and found your messages about where you got them. I ended going thru a dealer in Rochester, NY. Thank you.
Hi, I got the right parts for my 2110 Ford Tractor now. I have them on the piston now. At 8:00 minutes on the video, your rod is centered so you could slide the cylinder in. How did you do that? Mine is down, and when I picked the 3 pt. Hitch up, it is way back and still can't center that Rod so I can slide it into the cylinder. @@tedpappas1559
Hello Ted, on the 3 point hitch fix. The piston seal is $41. About the same but the big O ring was $25! Did you get yours not from a dealer? I thought you said it was $6? Thanks
Hi Steve, no, I got mine from Messicks. I just checked and the price was $6.49. The part number for mine is - O-Ring P/N - SBA052310750 or if you click on this link www.messicks.com/part/sba052310750/o-ring it should take you right to it. Thanks.
Did that rear piston seal also mess with your bucket loader ? I just got a problem yesterday with both front and back not wanting to lift or go down and making whining screetch noises, it might need a good bleed as I had all apart last fall to change the clutch but I don't see any where to bleed it or find any info on bleeding it.
No, the bucket lifted fine, it was only the 3 point lift that was effected and seemed to bounce with a heavy implement on it. You might want to try draining the system and changing the filters to see if that might help.
HEY Ted I have the same problem on my 1720 ford tractor. I see you used CNH brand piston seal. Would you let me have the name of the company you were able it through. The Ford tractor parts in town Says FORD sells an oring and back up Ring. TO replace the USeal Thanks for your help John Bigger 9/12/2022
I'm sorry, but I wouldn't know if they are the same parts. You can go to www.messicks.com/nh/136474 and it should be able to tell you what parts your tractor will need.
Hi Steve, did you get a chance to watch the video? Put the piston into a vise, then place the seal into the groove of the piston. Take 2 screwdrivers and stretch it over the other side of the piston. It might slip off a couple times but you should be able to get it. The video I linked in my last post shows how to stretch it over the top of the piston. It's not easy, but it's doable.
Ted Pappas I didn’t get it but had to go to dealer for other parts and they put it on for me! After that it went together easily! Now I’m replacing seal between front axel and drive hub. 4wd
Lot’s of issues with this video, cringe worthy!! 1. Never use a metal pick on an o-ring, they make plastic ones for that. 2. Never put wheel bearing grease in your hydraulic system. Use hydro fluid. 3. Lift he arms to make it go in all the way before you crush something.
Sorry I didn't meet your high standards Shawn. I am not a tractor mechanic nor claim to be. Just trying to help people who have the same issue but have no idea how to fix it. The 3 points you brought up are good ones, I wish I knew before making the video. Maybe you should make your own video to show how it's really done, instead of criticizing others.
Very helpfull - ive bought a 1920 with 800 genuine hours and its 3pl is bouncing with a load on it , so am just about to embalk on doung the same check now .
😊
Good luck 👍, my tractor is still working great and it's been 3 years since I posted this video. The hardest part is trying to get the seal over the piston, but once you get that, the job is pretty easy. I am glad the video helped out. Take care and God bless.
Your video inspired me to buy the seal and the O rings and give it a try. I have a 1910 model made in 1983. There was almost nothing left of the seal, but all of the O rings still looked great. It was an easy cheap fix for a nagging problem. Thank you so much!!
Excellent, I am glad the video helped.
Just wanted to say thank you for sharing. You did a great job.
Thank you sir 👍
Thank you! I have two 1320s and have been afraid to do anything hydraulic related until now. I will be subscribing and checking out the rest of your videos.👍🤝
Well I finally got the seal on the piston! It went back together smoothly after that! Works well now. Thanks for your help.
Excellent, glad I could help.
Did the same thing now Myers 3 point doesn't work at all whatdo uou think the problem is now
Excellent video. Now I can fix my nh 1720. I call her bouncing Betty.
I am glad you found the video helpful. Good luck with Bouncing Betty :)
This was a fantastic video, not one second of "oh for crying out loud.....do we have to watch this guy wash all the parts, etc.". YOu know what I mean. I know this is three years late but would a 'shuddering' as the three point is adjusted when box blading be of the same issue? This old 94 Honda 6522 I picked up runs and operates perfect with the exception of not being very smooth on 'creeping' the 3pt. stick on the fly. So the best I can do to explain the lack of response from stick to action of implement makes for a headache grading a road smooth!
I'm not sure if I'm understanding the bounce or hunt is the same problem. I have heard others mention their problem was like the system was constantly reacting up and down without stick input? Mine holds, adjusts great for draft control, holds in position once set, it's just hell trying to make small adjustments to the 3pt. for hi-lo grade corrections and of course the shudder when dropping the hitch down. Thanks, I could have sworn you were a tractor mechanic for how you went about taking on your problem. Have a great Day!
I have a 1320 with the same problem. I really appreciate this man!
Thanks Greg, I am glad it helped you out. God bless.
Do we know if it's the same part number for the 1320 and 1920?
Thanks for including the part numbers I just ordered my seal.
Justin, I'm glad it helped
Ted. Sorry to bother you again. Would you happen to have the Part or Spec number for the Hydraulic Filter for the 1920? New Holland is telling me there is various types for this tractor. If you dont have it written down somewhere, dont worry about it. I am sure I can find out. I just figured I would ask someone who has dome it before . Seems like Ford new holland mechanics only know about new equipment. My email is jasonbradley1920@gmail.com.
@@jasonbradley7973 - Looking at the parts manual, I am showing a Baldwin filter BBT8505. My tractor is at a friends house right now. I will call him today to see what filter is on my tractor and let you know.
@@jasonbradley7973 - These are other filters that are also supposed to work:
Fleetguard HF35359
Ford SBA340500410
NAPA 1208
Wix 51208
I really appreciate your help.
Great video. I appreciate you doing this as I have same problem. Now I’m ready to tear into this! Thanks
I use my 1920 year round and amazed how good it starts even at 0 degrees
I am glad it helped. Please let me know if you have any other questions.
I guess I am going to do this pretty quick. I have a 1920 purchased by my dad in 1990. The lift just started to hiccup. I will replace the hydraulic filter first to see if that is the issue. This is the only issue this tractor has ever had.
Hi Jason, most likely it is the piston seal. The 3 point starts to hiccup because the seal is allowing hydraulic fluid to leak through which is causing the 3 point to intermittently fail as the pump is doing it's best keep it where it belongs. The job isn't too hard though. I hope this video helps you out. Take care and good luck.
Thank you for the video. My New Holland TC35a just started doing this. Thankful it's not an impossible job.
I am glad it helped. The whole job only took me about an hour. For me the hardest part was getting the seal over the piston. There is a good UA-cam video showing you how to do it. If you need the video let me know.
@@tedpappas1559 I'll search for it. My tractor isn't very bad yet, more aggravating than anything right now. I have a video of mine on my channel. I need to do an update since it's changed a lot since then.
Thanks for the video. I have a 1720 with the same issue
I hope the video helped you out. Thanks
Please do a video on detaching the front loader. A friend has a 1920 and need to remove the loader. THANKS!
I'm interested in your friends front loader if he would like to sale.
Any idea what it could be
Great video. I have a 1720. Is that the same seal. O rings were fine, but seal was disintegrated.
I am glad the video helped. I am not sure if the seal is the exact same for the 1720 as it is for the 1920. You can try calling www.messicks.com/ to see if they can help. That is where I bought mine.
I already got the rubber O rings from Messicks (buy from there all the time) but dont' know why they did not include the oil seal. My fault for not realizing your the 1920 not 1720, I got the seal locally, which you listed and apparently it is different because it is just a little too big. I'll call Messicks in the am. @@tedpappas1559 Again, thanks for the video- I am sure this is the fix. Was your hydro fluid milky. mine was- guess I now need to know the capacity for a full drain and fill.
Replacing the seal definitely worked for me. I have no trouble with my 3 point bouncing anymore, even with heavy implements. My hydro fluid was not milky, so most likely you got some water in there and should change out your fluid. Good luck 😀👍 @@erichouwen3771
do you know if the 1520 has the same size oil seal?
Where can I order the parts?
Where can I order this for a 1710 ? 11:04 11:04
having trouble kicking out of 3rd gear at full throttle with piece of equipment attached. It does not grind putting in gear or taking it out. It has only 1100 hundred hours on it. what could cause this?
Thanks, Ted! Good info! ~ D
Ted does that cylinder have any affect on the front loader. I have no hydraulics on my on my 1920 Ford tractor the loader and the three point went out at the same time?
Hi Vic, no I don't think it would effect the front loader at all. I would think you need to check the hydrualic pump or maybe a relief valve.
My Ford f1700 loader and backhoe is jerking but the backhoe and thenloader I don't use the 3 point . And it moes slow
I add hydraulic fluid and more and more and nothing . I can have high rpms and still loader or backhoe move hella slow
I would check out this video to see if it would help, because it sounds like a clogged hydrualic filter. ua-cam.com/video/MbiptQT9m3Q/v-deo.html
@tedpappas1559 ok I hope is the filter . This Saturday I will take it off and see . Then next step would be pump
@@pedritoc.c.t.665 Good luck, I hope it's an easy fix for you 👍
When you replace that seal before taking it apart did you have to drain some oil
No, I didn't have to drain any oil on mine 👍
looking for part no on piston seal; please let me know also where to buy it; thanks. also I need o ring to be replaced.
I bought all my parts at Messicks www.messicks.com/part/sba050309017/seal-protection
Great info but just wandering if the bucket attachment also doing the same or was it only the 3 point hitch? Thanks in advance.
No, it was only the 3 point hitch.
@@tedpappas1559 Thanks
Hi, I just tried changing my lift cylinder gaskets. Looks like they sent me parts for another Ford. The O-ring is way too big, cant get cylinder even close to putting it on. Then they sent me a split ring plastic thin ring for the inside. Where did you Order yours from? Thanks.
I'm not sure what tractor you have, but this is the link to the piston seal that fit my tractor www.messicks.com/parts/new-holland/sba050309017
C@@tedpappas1559thanks for the reply. I went back and found your messages about where you got them. I ended going thru a dealer in Rochester, NY. Thank you.
@@elitebowman5386 Sounds good, I hope it works out for you this time 😏
Hi, I got the right parts for my 2110 Ford Tractor now. I have them on the piston now. At 8:00 minutes on the video, your rod is centered so you could slide the cylinder in. How did you do that? Mine is down, and when I picked the 3 pt. Hitch up, it is way back and still can't center that Rod so I can slide it into the cylinder. @@tedpappas1559
Hello Ted, on the 3 point hitch fix. The piston seal is $41. About the same but the big O ring was $25! Did you get yours not from a dealer? I thought you said it was $6? Thanks
Hi Steve, no, I got mine from Messicks. I just checked and the price was $6.49. The part number for mine is - O-Ring P/N - SBA052310750 or if you click on this link www.messicks.com/part/sba052310750/o-ring it should take you right to it. Thanks.
Did this help with the strength of the hydraulics? Mine is not hiccupping but seems to be getting weak.
Hi Steve, yes, it fixed my 3 point lift from bouncing. If you have weak hydraulics, it could be a different issue.
Nice one paps.
Did that rear piston seal also mess with your bucket loader ? I just got a problem yesterday with both front and back not wanting to lift or go down and making whining screetch noises, it might need a good bleed as I had all apart last fall to change the clutch but I don't see any where to bleed it or find any info on bleeding it.
No, the bucket lifted fine, it was only the 3 point lift that was effected and seemed to bounce with a heavy implement on it. You might want to try draining the system and changing the filters to see if that might help.
you have a hydrolic pump issue
I've got a Ford 1720, you wouldn't happen to know if its the same parts as your 1920.
HEY Ted
I have the same problem on my 1720 ford tractor.
I see you used CNH brand piston seal.
Would you let me have the name of the company you were able it through.
The Ford tractor parts in town
Says FORD sells an oring and back up
Ring. TO replace the USeal
Thanks for your help
John Bigger
9/12/2022
www.messicks.com/
Hi Heywood, I got the seal from Messicks. They seemed to be the only one that had it. I left the link for you. 👍
Would the process be similar for a 1720?
I am 85% sure that it would be
@@tedpappas1559 thank you sir.
1720 the same parts?
I'm sorry, but I wouldn't know if they are the same parts. You can go to www.messicks.com/nh/136474 and it should be able to tell you what parts your tractor will need.
So I see why you didn’t video putting the seal on piston! I’ve tried everything
Watch this video (ua-cam.com/video/P4-CA7zCz4M/v-deo.html) this is how I did it. If you have a vise and a couple screw drivers it's not too bad.
So did you put it down into the groove then pull it?
Hi Steve, did you get a chance to watch the video?
Put the piston into a vise, then place the seal into the groove of the piston. Take 2 screwdrivers and stretch it over the other side of the piston.
It might slip off a couple times but you should be able to get it. The video I linked in my last post shows how to stretch it over the top of the piston. It's not easy, but it's doable.
Ted Pappas I didn’t get it but had to go to dealer for other parts and they put it on for me! After that it went together easily! Now I’m replacing seal between front axel and drive hub. 4wd
did you really fix it you didnt show it working
I can tell you right now. Ain’t NO WAY the average person is going to get that new seal on that pistol. Gotta have pro help with that.
That is totally what I thought until I watched this video - This guy did it with his thumbs - ua-cam.com/video/W-GmN5zVKn4/v-deo.html
I put mine on with a vice and a couple screwdrivers.
Lot’s of issues with this video, cringe worthy!!
1. Never use a metal pick on an o-ring, they make plastic ones for that.
2. Never put wheel bearing grease in your hydraulic system. Use hydro fluid.
3. Lift he arms to make it go in all the way before you crush something.
Sorry I didn't meet your high standards Shawn. I am not a tractor mechanic nor claim to be. Just trying to help people who have the same issue but have no idea how to fix it. The 3 points you brought up are good ones, I wish I knew before making the video. Maybe you should make your own video to show how it's really done, instead of criticizing others.
Where can I order these parts , 1710 I'm having problems finding this!!
Would that be the same sealnas a ford 1700?