Re-engineering to "fix" a problem doesn't fix it. It only fixes the symptom and covers up the true problem. Grinding the guide spline off was the worst possible way to address this issue. Find the problem and correct it. The shaft that goes through the hydraulic cover and your lift arms connect to is a solid shaft. It does not work like a differential on a car. Both ends turn the same way, up or down. Your problem was likely in the individual level adjustments on the lower links themselves. The only other cause of the two sides not being aligned would be if the cross shaft itself was twisted, something I have never seen in a tractor like this before. Your short lift arms on each end of the cross shaft is what you should have checked to be sure they were level with each other.
Good info - fwiw, try using your camera in landscape orientation instead of portrait (vertical ) - way easier for us viewers to enjoy the video. Cheers
something mighty strange about the whole thing , shouldnt have to cut groove as its there in the first place to make sure the linkage is on a level plane ????????
Strange problem! Been a long time since I have owned a 4000. If you cranked your arm all the way up and its still not level I wonder maybe if the other arm where it attaches to the lower leak needs the pin removed and the arm turned manually. Also is it possible that they may have the arm in a wrong pin hole to the lower pull arms? Not saying there is any extra holes but I know some other brands of tractors have holes there.
I tried checking everything on the guts of the top cover of the three point system. Everything seem to be inspect and I didn't want to risk throwing it out of proportion if I started wrenching on it too bad. There aren't any other positions on the arms and even if there was I don't think it would affect it because of the fact that we never took that three-point system up to the dealership I just gave them the lift cover and not the whole tractor. the nice thing about it now though is I can rotate that pitman arm anyway I want and I can adjust it and give myself more height and More Death whenever I need to get adjusted for plowing or any type of deep heavy spring tillage. thanks for the added advice and opinion though!
Just bought a 1971 ford 4000 when I lift the grader blade it won't stay it drops back down am I doing something wrong? Also where do you put the hydraulic fluid for the front bucket?
Crazy to bastardise the master key in the arms, now you have lost the main datum level guide you had. The left hand tie bar between the arm and crank arm is also adjustable so all you needed to do was pull the pin and unscrew it down. The right hand side has the winder mechanism to be able to do from the seat but the principle is the same. A lot of effort there for nothing bud !
Right? All that was needed was to adjust the crank, correct? I was looking for a video to rebuild my crank arm. Not sure if it's worth rebuilding because of stripped gears or threads or just replacing entire arm.
I can't seem to get my 3PL to work. The arms are laxed, you can pick them up by hand freely but drop instantly quickly almost like the piston in not attached internally. Any ideas?
Tell me you found the problem. The left arm is fixed. The right arm has a handle you turn that adjust that arm up or down to level out system.
Dont think he knows the little crank on the vertical arm raises and lowers the arm to make it level.
Wish you would have shown the new grove you cut. Anyway great educational tool. Thanks
Re-engineering to "fix" a problem doesn't fix it. It only fixes the symptom and covers up the true problem. Grinding the guide spline off was the worst possible way to address this issue. Find the problem and correct it. The shaft that goes through the hydraulic cover and your lift arms connect to is a solid shaft. It does not work like a differential on a car. Both ends turn the same way, up or down. Your problem was likely in the individual level adjustments on the lower links themselves. The only other cause of the two sides not being aligned would be if the cross shaft itself was twisted, something I have never seen in a tractor like this before. Your short lift arms on each end of the cross shaft is what you should have checked to be sure they were level with each other.
The arms should have a master spline on them so they only go on one way..............
Sam, you say you don't have an adjustment to level the arms but I can clearly see an adjustable side link. You know that's the purpose it serves?
Good info - fwiw, try using your camera in landscape orientation instead of portrait (vertical ) - way easier for us viewers to enjoy the video. Cheers
Shouldn’t you be using the upper arms to level from instead of the lower adjustable ones? I’m not trying to be mean just a thought.
something mighty strange about the whole thing , shouldnt have to cut groove as its there in the first place to make sure the linkage is on a level plane ????????
Strange problem! Been a long time since I have owned a 4000. If you cranked your arm all the way up and its still not level I wonder maybe if the other arm where it attaches to the lower leak needs the pin removed and the arm turned manually. Also is it possible that they may have the arm in a wrong pin hole to the lower pull arms? Not saying there is any extra holes but I know some other brands of tractors have holes there.
I tried checking everything on the guts of the top cover of the three point system. Everything seem to be inspect and I didn't want to risk throwing it out of proportion if I started wrenching on it too bad. There aren't any other positions on the arms and even if there was I don't think it would affect it because of the fact that we never took that three-point system up to the dealership I just gave them the lift cover and not the whole tractor. the nice thing about it now though is I can rotate that pitman arm anyway I want and I can adjust it and give myself more height and More Death whenever I need to get adjusted for plowing or any type of deep heavy spring tillage. thanks for the added advice and opinion though!
I have a problem with my 4000 SU. The lift and PTO stop when I go up a steep grade?
Any idea's.
could be low in oil .
Good job!😇😁😇
Just bought a 1971 ford 4000 when I lift the grader blade it won't stay it drops back down am I doing something wrong? Also where do you put the hydraulic fluid for the front bucket?
park billy you got a leak in the hydraulic system
The right arm is adjustable
Crazy to bastardise the master key in the arms, now you have lost the main datum level guide you had. The left hand tie bar between the arm and crank arm is also adjustable so all you needed to do was pull the pin and unscrew it down. The right hand side has the winder mechanism to be able to do from the seat but the principle is the same. A lot of effort there for nothing bud !
Right? All that was needed was to adjust the crank, correct?
I was looking for a video to rebuild my crank arm. Not sure if it's worth rebuilding because of stripped gears or threads or just replacing entire arm.
Lmao 🤣
Job really sucks when you gotta do it alone
didn't say "so" enough times in this vid. just pulling your peg. good vid
I can't seem to get my 3PL to work. The arms are laxed, you can pick them up by hand freely but drop instantly quickly almost like the piston in not attached internally. Any ideas?
Almost sure the piston seal(s) is gone. Very common issue on older machines.
Curiously is not even difficult to fix.
Your draft control is set you need to disengage draft control it’s the lever under the seat to the right
I wasted my time i need to get inside mine they have makes where they line up turn the turn buckel
Nearly everything you said re the"fix" was wrong. All you had to do to level the implement was to shorten or lengthen the right lift link.
Jack Ramsey bull shit. The weight and Force you can put on a three-point I want the gears aligned.
what a fuck up way to do any thing