Super. My railroad still operates five Athearn EMD SW-7 Bluebox switchers, bought back when Athearn identified them as SW-1500 locomotives. Three cows and two calves, almost fifty years old, call my railroad home. Two, a cow and calf set, had radial couplers installed to allow them to work the freight on the trolley line, which has 4 3/4 inch radius curves and is mostly paved street trackage in the city. Good job fixing a classic. Hello from the Tracy Mountain Railway in Colorado. 💙 T.E.N.
I guess you seen that the front truck assembly had a bad drive coupler that was slipping on the drive shaft, so you removed the fitting and didn't attach the front truck to the motor. I also noticed that the motor angle tells me the motor mounts are bad and only one tung of the brush cover is touching the frame under the motor. It is good that you didn't remove the motor because finding the motor mounts for the smaller Athearn motor is difficult. I like the fact that you make it run no matter what. WD-40 makes a specialist electrical contact cleaner that dries fast and leaves no residue. Great for commutators and more. Great video.
Oh, I thought I mentioned that in the video. I tried yesterday to fix the mounting piece, but that was to no avail so I removed the worm gear and added a spacer to the underside of the shell to add proper electrical connection to the chassis. Thanks for Watching!!
The NO-OX-ID grease is a conductor. Did your fix work?? Please shave on you channel. I suspect that you live in the USA and there is a massive amount of parts available on Athearn Roundhouse shop, something I can not access living n Canada other then Ebay. Worse case you can always solder a wire to bridge the rail pick up and the motor. Depends on you skill using a soldering iron.
@@paulflak2823 Thanks for the Insight. My fix is still working, but I will probably use the advice given in the comments to improve this model more. Since this channel is not monetized, I can’t allocate that many funds. Thanks for Watching!! 🚂
Hi, You didn't add any oil/lubricant to the wheel bearings.. (well at least not on camera)..... Did you not notice when you had the eraser trying to clean the commutator that you were not turning the motor as the other universal joint (on the right side) was not turning so, therefore, that connector you were turning was just spinning on the shaft.
That is not an SW1000, not even close. You might want to avail yourself of the information before putting this out in a video, or just say you don't know what model it is and invite viewers to tell you the correct information. The model is an SW7. It was originally and erroneously marketed for decades as an SW1500. There was also a cabless booster produced so the two could be mated up as a TR6 cow/calf combination. It wasn't until about the 1980's or 90's when Athearn finally corrected their error when they began marketing an actual SW1500. They also now produce an SW1000 as well.
I fixed the title and thumbnail. I my 15 minutes of research(that I did a week ago) I found that Athearn labeled the locomotive as a SW1500 but when I looked up other images of SW1500’s the headlights did not match. So I looked up SW1000‘s and I found a few photos of locomotives with the round headlights. That is why I made my initial choice to call it a SW1000. I understand your frustration.
@@ThelefevrefeverWhat you need is an excellent book that is now long out of print, from the editors of Trains magazine, entitled Our GM Scrapbook. It's basically a collection of stories and photos from their magazine over the decades, along with selected diagrams, of the development of EMD locomotives through the 1st and 2nd generation diesels. It's not even very long - it's about 9 x 12 softcover and not even a 1/2 inch thick. Another useful handbook is one of the Diesel Spotter's Guide books by Jerry Pinkepank. It's been updated through the years with new editions to supplement the older ones - this is an essential and covers all makes and models, including rare and hard to find models.
Super. My railroad still operates five Athearn EMD SW-7 Bluebox switchers, bought back when Athearn identified them as SW-1500 locomotives. Three cows and two calves, almost fifty years old, call my railroad home. Two, a cow and calf set, had radial couplers installed to allow them to work the freight on the trolley line, which has 4 3/4 inch radius curves and is mostly paved street trackage in the city. Good job fixing a classic. Hello from the Tracy Mountain Railway in Colorado. 💙 T.E.N.
I guess you seen that the front truck assembly had a bad drive coupler that was slipping on the drive shaft, so you removed the fitting and didn't attach the front truck to the motor. I also noticed that the motor angle tells me the motor mounts are bad and only one tung of the brush cover is touching the frame under the motor. It is good that you didn't remove the motor because finding the motor mounts for the smaller Athearn motor is difficult. I like the fact that you make it run no matter what. WD-40 makes a specialist electrical contact cleaner that dries fast and leaves no residue. Great for commutators and more. Great video.
Oh, I thought I mentioned that in the video. I tried yesterday to fix the mounting piece, but that was to no avail so I removed the worm gear and added a spacer to the underside of the shell to add proper electrical connection to the chassis. Thanks for Watching!!
The NO-OX-ID grease is a conductor. Did your fix work?? Please shave on you channel. I suspect that you live in the USA and there is a massive amount of parts available on Athearn Roundhouse shop, something I can not access living n Canada other then Ebay.
Worse case you can always solder a wire to bridge the rail pick up and the motor. Depends on you skill using a soldering iron.
@@paulflak2823 Thanks for the Insight. My fix is still working, but I will probably use the advice given in the comments to improve this model more. Since this channel is not monetized, I can’t allocate that many funds. Thanks for Watching!! 🚂
Nice Job
Thanks for Watching!!
Hi, You didn't add any oil/lubricant to the wheel bearings.. (well at least not on camera)..... Did you not notice when you had the eraser trying to clean the commutator that you were not turning the motor as the other universal joint (on the right side) was not turning so, therefore, that connector you were turning was just spinning on the shaft.
Since posting the video I have tried to fixed the broken link, but it was to no avail. So I removed it. Thanks for Warning!
That is not an SW1000, not even close. You might want to avail yourself of the information before putting this out in a video, or just say you don't know what model it is and invite viewers to tell you the correct information.
The model is an SW7. It was originally and erroneously marketed for decades as an SW1500. There was also a cabless booster produced so the two could be mated up as a TR6 cow/calf combination. It wasn't until about the 1980's or 90's when Athearn finally corrected their error when they began marketing an actual SW1500. They also now produce an SW1000 as well.
I fixed the title and thumbnail. I my 15 minutes of research(that I did a week ago) I found that Athearn labeled the locomotive as a SW1500 but when I looked up other images of SW1500’s the headlights did not match. So I looked up SW1000‘s and I found a few photos of locomotives with the round headlights. That is why I made my initial choice to call it a SW1000. I understand your frustration.
@@ThelefevrefeverWhat you need is an excellent book that is now long out of print, from the editors of Trains magazine, entitled Our GM Scrapbook. It's basically a collection of stories and photos from their magazine over the decades, along with selected diagrams, of the development of EMD locomotives through the 1st and 2nd generation diesels. It's not even very long - it's about 9 x 12 softcover and not even a 1/2 inch thick. Another useful handbook is one of the Diesel Spotter's Guide books by Jerry Pinkepank. It's been updated through the years with new editions to supplement the older ones - this is an essential and covers all makes and models, including rare and hard to find models.