I used to take off the dynamic brake housing, put the main body shell back on, then run all the wires, then snap the dynamic brake back on. Saved me the “routing wire” nightmare. Loved the video my brother.
@@ScottRailsThe actor www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=brian+cox&si=AKbGX_qW2y9h6PBi7Qiy763JS402REyO5O8Whx1p4399uw6SeA2JFa46L_ssdR_Kqji2-mBMV90WUwWHzX-rmhfxOFO9XWXW8-JBQ4YsUW_JBwFmCTq-ApY%3D&ictx=1&ved=2ahUKEwj53fzSyPeEAxVRXvEDHWfHCK4Q_coHegQIOBAD
Thanks Dave. I was asked to look at an Athearn DC chassis and motor like this one today for my local club. Your strip down helps confirm what I had worked out. Someone has changed the motor mount on this one so not sure if I can fix it. Your informative strip down helped. Thanks. Happy Modelling Mon
A useful style of LED to look out for are whats known as "top hats". As the name suggests they are shaped with a shoulder and flat top, ideal where there was no existing bulb. You carefully drill a small hole and these fit flush. When you see them you'll know what I mean. Even after a lifetime of messing with electronics, you still can't beat that "YES!!" moment when you stick a few bits together and it works when powered up. Well done Dave. 👍
Now try that with an N scale loco! 😁 A lot less space as has been my experience but still quite doable. So nice to have all that space in these Blue Box locos. And that 3d printed holder is a great idea.
There is yet another useful class of LED's, 1.8 mm diameter. You can install a pair of them in each of the front and rear light 'holes' on the Athearn diesels, just need to drill the holes a shade larger. With two independent lights installed you can set one to be a regular headlight and one to be red light or a Mars light or a Gyralight.
We upgraded an old Athearn blue box F7 to DCC with sound and LED lighting but also upgraded the motor. The new motor draws a lot less power and is much quieter. Those old blue box engines run great, but the downside was always the power usage and the noise.
Hi Dave, a very useful and instructional video as I am dabbling in some American HO. I inherited some from my late brother and disposed of some (including a Dash9 in BC) and with the remainder I thought I would do a small switching layout. I’ve had the opportunity to squire some more which included a blue box SD40-2 so I am tempted to convert to DCC as I also inherited a Digitrax system. I’ve watched other UA-cam videos, all very good but yours has given the confidence to have a go. I need to rewatch to identify suppliers of coders, LEDs and connectors. I’ve subscribed so look forward to other videos and I have put a thread in Western Thunder of my layout progress.
I have changed a few things since that video. I've started to use grain of wheat led bulbs which are tiny but just as bright, and have VERY fine wiring. I've not found a cheap way to get decoders yet. Looking at around $30 each for the basic digitrax decoders.
@@ScottRailsmodelling is all about refining, sounds as if you are doing good work. Are you going to let on as to your suppliers of the decoders and fine wire?
I just watched your video, and it was super helpful. I have a digitrax decoder with sound. What do the extra wires do from the back of the decoder do? Also were did you purchase your led lights with resistors from? Let me know thks Bob
I have only installed one sound decoder so far, and it was a digitrax. From what I remember, they use a generic wiring harness, which has a few wires that are not used. This confused me immensely, but once you get your head around that, it's pretty simple really. I get my leds fro Ali express online. They are mega cheap,but can take a few weeks to arrive. Amazon has them too, but more expensive.
They have the generic on the front of the decoder and an additional wiring harness on the back end with the speaker and possibly a resistor. Thought you might know what to do with the additional harness, possibly for the sound part. Just let me know if you have an idea 💡 what to do. Thanks
Thanks for the tutorial. I have a couple of blue box GP-38's I'm going to put decoders in. Can you tell me where you got the 3d printed decoder bracket from? They make the job a lot tidier. Take care. Sean.
I am curious as to where you purchased it? Unfortunately, I don't have a 3D printer. So, you acquired a file and printed it. It's amazing how much the hobby has improved because of 3D printers. Are you able to provide a link for the Decoder platform?
If you do a search for Athearn you should find it. There's a couple of options now. Here's a link to the one I like now. www.thingiverse.com/thing:5545083
Seems as if all you have is a decoder which does the same as if you were using DC. Now if there was sound added it would be something special otherwise it's not for me. Note: having the trains moving in opposite directions is cool I would just use another track side by side. thanks for the heads up.
Not sure why you are watching a video about DCC installs if you have no interest in DCC. For me, sound is not that important. I like DCC for the ability to control multiple trains on the same track at different speeds and different directions. I also like the lighting functions available on DCC, flashing, strobing, dimming etc.
I used to take off the dynamic brake housing, put the main body shell back on, then run all the wires, then snap the dynamic brake back on. Saved me the “routing wire” nightmare. Loved the video my brother.
Another remarkable video, bravo. I don't have the budget--temporal, mental and fiscal--to convert to DCC. I'll be happy being DC til I die. 😎
Am I the only one who always think of Brian Cox (the actor), when I see this guy talk about trains? :)
Which guy?
@@ScottRailsThe actor www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=brian+cox&si=AKbGX_qW2y9h6PBi7Qiy763JS402REyO5O8Whx1p4399uw6SeA2JFa46L_ssdR_Kqji2-mBMV90WUwWHzX-rmhfxOFO9XWXW8-JBQ4YsUW_JBwFmCTq-ApY%3D&ictx=1&ved=2ahUKEwj53fzSyPeEAxVRXvEDHWfHCK4Q_coHegQIOBAD
Thanks Dave.
I was asked to look at an Athearn DC chassis and motor like this one today for my local club.
Your strip down helps confirm what I had worked out.
Someone has changed the motor mount on this one so not sure if I can fix it.
Your informative strip down helped.
Thanks.
Happy Modelling
Mon
Thank You Very much,i love old Athearn BLUE box locomotive❤
A useful style of LED to look out for are whats known as "top hats". As the name suggests they are shaped with a shoulder and flat top, ideal where there was no existing bulb. You carefully drill a small hole and these fit flush. When you see them you'll know what I mean.
Even after a lifetime of messing with electronics, you still can't beat that "YES!!" moment when you stick a few bits together and it works when powered up. Well done Dave. 👍
Thanks Gerry. I'll look those bulbs up.
How exciting Dave! Well done and have even MORE fun playing trains...
Now try that with an N scale loco! 😁 A lot less space as has been my experience but still quite doable. So nice to have all that space in these Blue Box locos. And that 3d printed holder is a great idea.
This is cool, awesome video.
There is yet another useful class of LED's, 1.8 mm diameter. You can install a pair of them in each of the front and rear light 'holes' on the Athearn diesels, just need to drill the holes a shade larger. With two independent lights installed you can set one to be a regular headlight and one to be red light or a Mars light or a Gyralight.
I've ordered some micro leds from China. Would love to install ditch lights if possible. Will need tiny lenses for them
Nicely demonstrated! Really enjoying taking the journey with you (as someone without a layout😔)
Your Video, inspire me to try the same work to my locomotive, the same locomotive like yours an SD-45, mine with the SEABOARD Livery. Thank you
We upgraded an old Athearn blue box F7 to DCC with sound and LED lighting but also upgraded the motor. The new motor draws a lot less power and is much quieter. Those old blue box engines run great, but the downside was always the power usage and the noise.
That will be something I'll look into in the future. baby steps.
Very informative and well done.
Been trying to find a good detailed video on how to install for a beginner...thanks so much.
If there's anything I missed, or can improve , let me know. I have lot of Locos to convert.
Awesome install of the decoder. Thx for sharing
Excellent job
Loved this video. Thank you!
great job
Nicely done. Gives me hope when I do mine. Thanks sir.
I'm about to do my first conversions, this was very helpful. Thanks!
u can use dish soap to put the little rubber bits into the frame. The soap dries out and rubber bits are in.
Thanks, that's great to know.
Hello Dave great video and very well demonstrated.
I believe that is a color code for al the wires. And the color code for the bottom of the motor is gray, and the top; orange.
Hi Dave, a very useful and instructional video as I am dabbling in some American HO. I inherited some from my late brother and disposed of some (including a Dash9 in BC) and with the remainder
I thought I would do a small switching layout. I’ve had the opportunity to squire some more which included a blue box SD40-2 so I am tempted to convert to DCC as I also inherited a Digitrax system. I’ve watched other UA-cam videos, all very good but yours has given the confidence to have a go. I need to rewatch to identify suppliers of coders, LEDs and connectors. I’ve subscribed so look forward to other videos and I have put a thread in Western Thunder of my layout progress.
I have changed a few things since that video. I've started to use grain of wheat led bulbs which are tiny but just as bright, and have VERY fine wiring.
I've not found a cheap way to get decoders yet. Looking at around $30 each for the basic digitrax decoders.
@@ScottRailsmodelling is all about refining, sounds as if you are doing good work. Are you going to let on as to your suppliers of the decoders and fine wire?
@@MrCrankyChris Ali Express for the led's and I get my decoders locally. Not found anywhere online cheaper.
Nice job Dave.
very informative video
Very well done. Learned a bunch that I will apply to my fleet. What brand is the wire stripper and where did you get it?
I think those strippers came from Princess Auto here in Canada. Nothing special.
Most enjoyable presentation. Very smooth and easy to follow. Where did you find the Athearn 3D printed decoder holder? That was a cool product!
I found the file on Thingiverse and printed it. I have since found a better one.
What Digitrax decoder did you use? I've got several ALCO C420s I've got to convert.
DH126D . Very basic. Only does motor and lights. It could probably do any of the older DC locos from what I can see.
Now you get to learn how to consist!
I just watched your video, and it was super helpful. I have a digitrax decoder with sound. What do the extra wires do from the back of the decoder do? Also were did you purchase your led lights with resistors from? Let me know thks Bob
I have only installed one sound decoder so far, and it was a digitrax. From what I remember, they use a generic wiring harness, which has a few wires that are not used. This confused me immensely, but once you get your head around that, it's pretty simple really.
I get my leds fro Ali express online. They are mega cheap,but can take a few weeks to arrive. Amazon has them too, but more expensive.
They have the generic on the front of the decoder and an additional wiring harness on the back end with the speaker and possibly a resistor. Thought you might know what to do with the additional harness, possibly for the sound part. Just let me know if you have an idea 💡 what to do. Thanks
Thanks for the tutorial. I have a couple of blue box GP-38's I'm going to put decoders in. Can you tell me where you got the 3d printed decoder bracket from? They make the job a lot tidier. Take care. Sean.
Hey Sean. I printed it myself, or are you asking where I got the stl file?
I am curious as to where you purchased it? Unfortunately, I don't have a 3D printer. So, you acquired a file and printed it. It's amazing how much the hobby has improved because of 3D printers. Are you able to provide a link for the Decoder platform?
Hey, if people can figure out how to get speakers into N scale locomotives, fitting one into the BC Rail loco should be a breeze!
You have a very good point.
Those motor mounts, for some reason are not easy to get them back, Athearn sells new ones as parts.
Could not locate the bracket for decoder and wires on thingiverse....what was it called?....thanks!
If you do a search for Athearn you should find it. There's a couple of options now. Here's a link to the one I like now. www.thingiverse.com/thing:5545083
If you are using Resin core solder, adding resin/flux is not necessary.
Scott, do you have the print file for the decoder holder? I would love to give it a shot.
There's a bunch of them on Thingiverse. Depends on where you want to mount it. Search for servo motor mount.
@@ScottRails My printer is quite slow, I rather go for a proven design. If you would have the file number that be great
Seems as if all you have is a decoder which does the same as if you were using DC. Now if there was sound added it would be something special otherwise it's not for me. Note: having the trains moving in opposite directions is cool I would just use another track side by side. thanks for the heads up.
Not sure why you are watching a video about DCC installs if you have no interest in DCC.
For me, sound is not that important. I like DCC for the ability to control multiple trains on the same track at different speeds and different directions.
I also like the lighting functions available on DCC, flashing, strobing, dimming etc.
WHITE TO WHITE , RED TO RED , BLACK TO BLACK , BLUE TO BITS
What about grey and orange?
🤣🤣🤣@@ScottRails
Why use flux when there is flux in the solder core?
Is that a rhetorical question?
Dave if you need some Kapton tape let me know because I have some
It's just sooo expensive James. Do you charge by the inch or MM?
@@ScottRails - not Chinese Kapton tape
Dont you love it Dave when a part flys accros the room and it takes forever to find it,,,i know the fealing did it a thousand times
I'm thankful for laminate flooring.
All you have to do is cut the tabs off the bottom pickup bar...
Yes, that's an option. I just prefer to do it this way.
Steam engine has tonnes of room for speaker in tender😂
And it already has the electrical pick ups, hmmmm