that old school compressor it an IR and is heaver duty than either of the 2 pumps you are still using . we have parts for IR and instructional videos on how to fix it if you are interested.
I cringe every time I see someone using a rusty compressor air tank. I have seen way to many videos of air tanks exploding and making a structural mess of someones property. IE: garage or basement. If the outside of a tank is rusty on the outside imagine what the inside would look like. Scary business.
Great setup though I'm curious why you a didn't run all 3 compressors and feed them through a dryer before dumping into the tanks in series so that theoretically you would have 100% dry air by the time you hit the 3rd tank especially since you are looking to sand blast and I imagine that your going to be painting as well
the old compressor was pretty useless. i did test it but not worth doing. adding a drier was not part of the original scope but is a great idea and easy to add in the future.
Just a little tip or advice, you should install on a self draining system downstairs on all 3 tanks, it will take the worry from you and give life to all 3 tanks and keeping them drained and dry
your cfm comes from the pumps what you have done is build reserve. your cycle times will increase . so you may be able to blast for 10 minute and then wait till your tanks refill . the 10 minutes is just an example . your nozzle size will determine how long you can blast till you wait on air. also set your blast pressure through a regulator at 95 to 100 psi. you may have more pressure in the tank . but optimum blast pressure is under 100psi. also depending on how your electric co bills you you may want to use a second pressure switch and off set them by 5 psi . you may end up with amperage spikes that your electric co may hit you pretty hard with on your bill. I am going to check out your other videos.
@@renatochiarella4750 when a motor starts it will have a amperage spike of 1.5 times FLA. many compressors will spike 1.75 times FLA. so if you have 2 pumps that start at the same time and you are on a demand meter (which is common in many commercial building in our area) your elec bill may be charged by the height of the spikes not totally the actual usage. also when the start it may end up dimming the lights or causing havoc with electronic devices on the same system.
Question: Theoretically isn’t the new CFM be the summation of the 2 compressors Side note. I realize he uses the contactors as isolator switches ..I may have use both 110 lines,,, that way each compressor would be on separate lines. What’s your take???
Should have kept everything stock.just buy 2 check valves and pipe both to the single tank ,and use that as a draw .The checks are for air hammering , yep resident frequency is a thing . And you still get to shut one off anytime ,plus its easier to set your lagging compressor switch.
x2 for the wiring/plumbing diagrams please. This is exactly what I am setting up - 2 x 80g compressors (SpeedAir and a Craftsman Pro) + 1 x 80g aux tank (also Craftsman Pro). My stuff is 220 single phase.
Couldn’t you just use the pressure switches on the out put of the tanks to control when they turn on? The pressure will equalize in the tank. Contractor circuit seems like overkill.
yes but when the pressure drops you run the chance of only one of the pressure switched being activated and only having one compressor turn on. this way both will always run
way too complicated mister. all you had to do was connect all three tanks together to make one huge tank, synchronize the cut in settings on the two compressors, and run that huge tank to a output pressure regulator before your discharge line. you don't need any check valves!
@@Talbot_Industries the only thing you have to be careful with is that all the tanks are rated for the same max pressure. I wired both my compressors so they run in tandem on the same pressure switch because the other switch ran up too high. It works very well.
that old school compressor it an IR and is heaver duty than either of the 2 pumps you are still using . we have parts for IR and instructional videos on how to fix it if you are interested.
Great 👍🏾 please produce a wiring and plumbing diagram. That would make this perfect
Good work. Great that you removed the stock regulator on the compressor. They are very restrictive.
I cringe every time I see someone using a rusty compressor air tank. I have seen way to many videos of air tanks exploding and making a structural mess of someones property. IE: garage or basement. If the outside of a tank is rusty on the outside imagine what the inside would look like. Scary business.
Are you running both compressors at the same time off of the same main line at 20 or 30 amps without tripping the main breaker?
Great setup though I'm curious why you a didn't run all 3 compressors and feed them through a dryer before dumping into the tanks in series so that theoretically you would have 100% dry air by the time you hit the 3rd tank especially since you are looking to sand blast and I imagine that your going to be painting as well
the old compressor was pretty useless. i did test it but not worth doing. adding a drier was not part of the original scope but is a great idea and easy to add in the future.
Just a little tip or advice, you should install on a self draining system downstairs on all 3 tanks, it will take the worry from you and give life to all 3 tanks and keeping them drained and dry
your cfm comes from the pumps what you have done is build reserve. your cycle times will increase . so you may be able to blast for 10 minute and then wait till your tanks refill . the 10 minutes is just an example . your nozzle size will determine how long you can blast till you wait on air. also set your blast pressure through a regulator at 95 to 100 psi. you may have more pressure in the tank . but optimum blast pressure is under 100psi. also depending on how your electric co bills you you may want to use a second pressure switch and off set them by 5 psi . you may end up with amperage spikes that your electric co may hit you pretty hard with on your bill. I am going to check out your other videos.
Hello.
Could you explain about the amperage spike and the switch?
New to this.
Thank you so much
@@renatochiarella4750 when a motor starts it will have a amperage spike of 1.5 times FLA. many compressors will spike 1.75 times FLA. so if you have 2 pumps that start at the same time and you are on a demand meter (which is common in many commercial building in our area) your elec bill may be charged by the height of the spikes not totally the actual usage. also when the start it may end up dimming the lights or causing havoc with electronic devices on the same system.
Thanks
Question:
Theoretically isn’t the new CFM be the summation of the 2 compressors
Side note. I realize he uses the contactors as isolator switches ..I may have use both 110 lines,,, that way each compressor would be on separate lines. What’s your take???
@@sabadabigarage1595 yes he will have the sum of the CFM from the 2 pumps and he will have 240 gallons of reserve air.
Should have kept everything stock.just buy 2 check valves and pipe both to the single tank ,and use that as a draw .The checks are for air hammering , yep resident frequency is a thing .
And you still get to shut one off anytime ,plus its easier to set your lagging compressor switch.
x2 for the wiring/plumbing diagrams please. This is exactly what I am setting up - 2 x 80g compressors (SpeedAir and a Craftsman Pro) + 1 x 80g aux tank (also Craftsman Pro). My stuff is 220 single phase.
Very good setup and video!
Thanks for share this video...
Up next: triple parallel CP3’s
Where did you buy your contact relay switches at?
amazon
Couldn’t you just use the pressure switches on the out put of the tanks to control when they turn on? The pressure will equalize in the tank. Contractor circuit seems like overkill.
yes but when the pressure drops you run the chance of only one of the pressure switched being activated and only having one compressor turn on. this way both will always run
Where did you get your fittings and regulator?
Plastic Process Equipment for the fittings. regulator i believe was amazon
💪👍💯
way too complicated mister. all you had to do was connect all three tanks together to make one huge tank, synchronize the cut in settings on the two compressors, and run that huge tank to a output pressure regulator before your discharge line. you don't need any check valves!
i removed the valves after
@@Talbot_Industries the only thing you have to be careful with is that all the tanks are rated for the same max pressure. I wired both my compressors so they run in tandem on the same pressure switch because the other switch ran up too high. It works very well.
Sad
Yes you are.
Where did you get your fittings and regulator?