You really need to disconnect the linkage to each carb before setting the flow meter. You cannot get it right unless you do you will always be chasing back and forth as they are not independent of each other.
Adjusting the down rods (one side vs the other) will change the idle speed. After adjusting them one should recheck the balance from side-side. it's always prudent to do all adjustments with the engine at operating temp. Geometry changes from a cold engine to hot engine. Inital set up cold get it close then once at operating temp do final adjustment/s. When jetting no lean tune jetting with a mechanical only distributor. if you use a vacuum advance distributor such as an SVDA shoot for 16-17AFR (light-part throttle cruise). It will run cooler and achieve better MPG's. No more than 28BTDC @ 3200+ rpm timing in a bus.
I must say, I absolutely enjoy your videos, and how helpful they are, man! I am also currently working on a 1965 sea blue bus (ours is a 13 window). The orange westie on my profile was our first air-cooled VW, it is a 72' with the first type 4 engine. Anyway, i bought a type 1 engine with fresh rebuild from mofoco, here in Milwaukee, WI. for the 65'.. once i decide on what exhaust i want to run, i will be ready to do the assembly. Thanks again for posting such great info! Always, Drew
Nice... and thanks! I really like the A-1 exhaust i have on the bus.. been working and sounding great. awesome ground clearance as well. have fun! phil
Phil Goeckler I'll look into the A-1 today. Thanks for the tip, and with as much time as we spend in the national forests camping, i need all the ground clearance i can get. I wish mine were as nice looking as your 65', but being from the midwest, and even though it hasn't been on the road since 74' , i still had to do both rockers, and outer cargo floors. Still well worth it in the end, as there's nothing like a splitty. Thanks, again! Always, Drew
Just starting to attempt to learn how to work on my Vw Love how you explain things. I’m hoping it works out for me. Mine is running to rich Wish me luck
Additional tip. After you have finished turning the motor over with the remote starter use the key/ignition to ensure you have oil pressure you can turn the motor over from the ignition switch inside the car. While the motor is turning over but 'not' starting, (leave the coil wire disconnected) watch the oil pressure light on the dash and wait for it to go out. Once the oil pressure light goes out you know you have oil pressure. Have fun! Phil
you should put a jumper on that coil wire , the volts have to go somewhere , to ground is a good place ,,so you don't damage you ingnition . nice vid ,,,
Great vids, appreciate your expertise! Do you have a vid showing the fuel line routing for this dual carb setup? My air cooled bus will have an electric fuel pump, just wondering how to do it right, thanks!
I was surprised you didn't break in the cam immediately after starting the motor for the first time. Is that no longer done? Back in the day, I'd run the motor at high revs for twenty minutes
Like DanielinLaTuna said... Don't do ANY of this until the engine has run at 2000+ RPM for 15-20 minutes with zinc additive to fully warm up & break in the cam & lifters! Engle, Web, Crane etc ALL still insist on this for warranty. Look at your Bentley manual too for minimum operating temp (130F) before you try to adjust anything. Also make sure FUEL pressure isn't over 3.5PSI for Weber type carbs. Simple way to be sure you have OIL pressure is a $10 manual gauge on a short flex line you can see back at the engine. If you really want to pre-lube the engine (without a $200 Accusump) put 15/W40 in a garden sprayer, get rid of the spray tip, "T" the hose into oil pressure sender & hand-pump oil thru the whole inside of the engine.
Hi dude,great tutorial video yeah,i have a question to ask,i will soon be adding dual webers to my 1600 type 1 engine,and i noticed your running a mechanical fuel pump,how well does it run for dual carbs,as i keep getting told to go down the electric pump route but i'm reluctant to do this so long as my mechanical pump feeds my carbs sufficiently,my engine is in pieces at the moment,as doing a complete rebuild,so just looking ahead,so know what to expect when it's ready to fire up again....cheers dude.
Your videos are always so helpful as I'm just wondering if I need to install a fuel pressure regulator on a pair of dual Weber carburetors I'm installing with an electric fuel pump? Or could I just test to see what pressure the pump is pushing out before I install a regulator? Thanks
+bigdaddymex2003 what is the sweet spot I keep hearing you say 5. I have 66 bug 1915cc on dual dellorto 36 and do you have a video on upgrading the ignition system to get a better spark. And sorry for all the all the questions I'm trying to learn how to do this my self I'm somewhat mechanically inclined and it looks simple enough that I think I can do on my own. And do I have to drop the engine to change the plugs thank you for any information that you would provide me with
I've got an offy 3 port manifold that I has 3 weber 34ICT's and I'd like to have it setup this way. Run on the middle carb only during idle and slow performance. and when I get on the throttle, the 2 outer carbs will kick in progressively. Can you clue me into how I would do that setup? P.S. unfortunately they have 3 different jets in them, one is 40, one is 50 and the 3rd is 55. I'm in a real dilemma aren't I?
Wow, dude! This is incredibly helpful. I have a brand new dual carb motor in my 1982 Westfalia and I am still learning to set the airflow properly. Thanks a ton for this video!! Scope out my motor on my most recent video. Cheers!
I’ve a CB setup also. I keep breaking the throttle arm that connects to the heim extension on the 3/4 side. It seems to be binding while on the freeway. Do you think the carb body expands with heat to where the throttle can stick?
You don't know if you have oil flow and oil pressure? Then crank the engine with the spark plugs OUT @ first, have someone look @ the oil pressure idiot light on the speedometer while cranking;.. does the oil pressure light go off? leave HV ignition wire in distributor cap but unplug 12V distributor wire @ Ign coil instead! when oil Pressure is indicated replace spark plugs and connect 12 V distibutor wire @ Ign coil!
Just got my first bug. this is an excellent intro. Thank you!!
best video so far convincing me stock is best
Helped us out a ton and got our bus running! Thank you!
You really need to disconnect the linkage to each carb before setting the flow meter. You cannot get it right unless you do you will always be chasing back and forth as they are not independent of each other.
bolti1000 that is what I just thought, the way he does it is simply wrong
@@bjornbremer6123 not true.. you only need to have one linkage loose.
not true.. you only need to have one linkage loose.
Thank you, your video is very clear and helpful
Thanks for the informative video series! I'm learning so much! I'm an air cooled newbie... got myself a '72 bay, 25 years old and from the UK!
Adjusting the down rods (one side vs the other) will change the idle speed. After adjusting them one should recheck the balance from side-side. it's always prudent to do all adjustments with the engine at operating temp. Geometry changes from a cold engine to hot engine. Inital set up cold get it close then once at operating temp do final adjustment/s. When jetting no lean tune jetting with a mechanical only distributor. if you use a vacuum advance distributor such as an SVDA shoot for 16-17AFR (light-part throttle cruise). It will run cooler and achieve better MPG's. No more than 28BTDC @ 3200+ rpm timing in a bus.
Thank you so much for making this video...needed to adjust my dual carbs on a 66 beetle and this helped quite a bit
instablaster...
I must say, I absolutely enjoy your videos, and how helpful they are, man! I am also currently working on a 1965 sea blue bus (ours is a 13 window). The orange westie on my profile was our first air-cooled VW, it is a 72' with the first type 4 engine. Anyway, i bought a type 1 engine with fresh rebuild from mofoco, here in Milwaukee, WI. for the 65'.. once i decide on what exhaust i want to run, i will be ready to do the assembly. Thanks again for posting such great info!
Always,
Drew
Nice... and thanks! I really like the A-1 exhaust i have on the bus.. been working and sounding great. awesome ground clearance as well.
have fun!
phil
Phil Goeckler I'll look into the A-1 today. Thanks for the tip, and with as much time as we spend in the national forests camping, i need all the ground clearance i can get. I wish mine were as nice looking as your 65', but being from the midwest, and even though it hasn't been on the road since 74' , i still had to do both rockers, and outer cargo floors. Still well worth it in the end, as there's nothing like a splitty. Thanks, again!
Always,
Drew
great channel man, keep it up
Just starting to attempt to learn how to work on my Vw Love how you explain things. I’m hoping it works out for me. Mine is running to rich Wish me luck
Awesome, just waiting on my synch tool..... Thanks for this!
Awesome stuff! Just subbed. Don't own a Bus yet, but plan to in the near future. This is EXCELLENT info.
Huge thanks i just ordered the sync tool keep it up
Additional tip. After you have finished turning the motor over with the remote starter use the key/ignition to ensure you have oil pressure you can turn the motor over from the ignition switch inside the car. While the motor is turning over but 'not' starting, (leave the coil wire disconnected) watch the oil pressure light on the dash and wait for it to go out. Once the oil pressure light goes out you know you have oil pressure.
Have fun!
Phil
great video , thank you.
you should put a jumper on that coil wire , the volts have to go somewhere , to ground is a good place ,,so you don't damage you ingnition . nice vid ,,,
My twin 40s mated to a 1641 it’s been through a rolling road now pulled plugs and there’re black and it’s popping a lot mostly in 1 n 2nd
Great advise thanks.
Thanks for more great info brother!
Great vids, appreciate your expertise! Do you have a vid showing the fuel line routing for this dual carb setup? My air cooled bus will have an electric fuel pump, just wondering how to do it right, thanks!
NIce motor You Adventure... looks and sounds great!
phil
I was surprised you didn't break in the cam immediately after starting the motor for the first time. Is that no longer done? Back in the day, I'd run the motor at high revs for twenty minutes
no new cam on this motor, just accessories
Like DanielinLaTuna said... Don't do ANY of this until the engine has run at 2000+ RPM for 15-20 minutes with zinc additive to fully warm up & break in the cam & lifters! Engle, Web, Crane etc ALL still insist on this for warranty. Look at your Bentley manual too for minimum operating temp (130F) before you try to adjust anything. Also make sure FUEL pressure isn't over 3.5PSI for Weber type carbs. Simple way to be sure you have OIL pressure is a $10 manual gauge on a short flex line you can see back at the engine. If you really want to pre-lube the engine (without a $200 Accusump) put 15/W40 in a garden sprayer, get rid of the spray tip, "T" the hose into oil pressure sender & hand-pump oil thru the whole inside of the engine.
Anyone know what happened to this guy? I love the videos!
Hi dude,great tutorial video yeah,i have a question to ask,i will soon be adding dual webers to my 1600 type 1 engine,and i noticed your running a mechanical fuel pump,how well does it run for dual carbs,as i keep getting told to go down the electric pump route but i'm reluctant to do this so long as my mechanical pump feeds my carbs sufficiently,my engine is in pieces at the moment,as doing a complete rebuild,so just looking ahead,so know what to expect when it's ready to fire up again....cheers dude.
What is the engine that can be installed from other large and powerful engines ???👑🇩🇿
Your videos are always so helpful as I'm just wondering if I need to install a fuel pressure regulator on a pair of dual Weber carburetors I'm installing with an electric fuel pump? Or could I just test to see what pressure the pump is pushing out before I install a regulator? Thanks
Right on man thank you very much you where a big help.
By the way what's that name of that synchronizer model number that you have to use to synchronize the carburetors thank you sir.
+bigdaddymex2003 what is the sweet spot I keep hearing you say 5. I have 66 bug 1915cc on dual dellorto 36 and do you have a video on upgrading the ignition system to get a better spark. And sorry for all the all the questions I'm trying to learn how to do this my self I'm somewhat mechanically inclined and it looks simple enough that I think I can do on my own. And do I have to drop the engine to change the plugs thank you for any information that you would provide me with
huge help!! thanks a ton!!
I’ve got the empi 34 dual setup, I’m getting exhaust backfiring, any helpful info to remedy,
Mixing screw? Timing?
you said you are in the PNW...what city?
Question, how do you know if you have oil pressure just by turning it over ? Do you look for the gauge light?
What happened to the videos man? I really enjoy your content
I've got an offy 3 port manifold that I has 3 weber 34ICT's and I'd like to have it setup this way. Run on the middle carb only during idle and slow performance. and when I get on the throttle, the 2 outer carbs will kick in progressively. Can you clue me into how I would do that setup? P.S. unfortunately they have 3 different jets in them, one is 40, one is 50 and the 3rd is 55. I'm in a real dilemma aren't I?
Im sorry I have no experience with such a set up and have never seen one. Maybe the manufacturer has some tips for you.
I have a cuestion my carbureator s don't have the velocity stacks is that the problem running with out
awesome man
Wow, dude! This is incredibly helpful. I have a brand new dual carb motor in my 1982 Westfalia and I am still learning to set the airflow properly. Thanks a ton for this video!! Scope out my motor on my most recent video. Cheers!
I’ve a CB setup also. I keep breaking the throttle arm that connects to the heim extension on the 3/4 side. It seems to be binding while on the freeway. Do you think the carb body expands with heat to where the throttle can stick?
Hows the geometry of the rods side-side? They need to be as close to the same including for & aft.
Do you have a problem running the street w/o catalytic converter?
This year of vehicle is exempt from emissions testing where we are at.
Not having a catalytic converter helps performance if anything.
DIYGermanAircooled I agree!!
Thanks for Vid , very helpful! do you have a link to buy the airflow metre?
+Chris koh www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_hi_eb?rh=k%3Aairflow+meter%2Cn%3A16310091&ie=UTF8&qid=1456072747&keyword=airflow+meter
Where did you get your air flow meter??
Sounds like you have some excessive valve to adjuster clearance ...
You got that right. I couldn't believe that he was running it like that. He didn't seem to notice.
Bus is going up for sale..
Oh no...the end of an Era!
You don't know if you have oil flow and oil pressure?
Then crank the engine with the spark plugs OUT @ first,
have someone look @ the oil pressure idiot light on the speedometer while cranking;.. does the oil pressure light go off?
leave HV ignition wire in distributor cap but unplug 12V distributor wire @ Ign coil instead!
when oil Pressure is indicated replace spark plugs and connect 12 V distibutor wire @ Ign coil!
Liberty Patriot Mechanic speaking here^ 😂😂
obrigado
^ years ago, just the same he doesn't know shit about balancing carbs
huge help!! thanks a ton!!