Final Drives do not have anything to do with the rear end oil I'll be changing in the next video. I don't drop the pans for the final drives, I use a suction gun. That will be in Part 3...don't go ballistic if I misspeak lol
The oil is the life! Great video FF! While it's looks very small in comparison to your other Farmalls, the A damn sure looked good to a farmer in 1939 that had been walking behind a mule for 40-50 years.
@@dustyroads5753 I don't doubt that one bit! He had the "well they were good enough for grandpa" mentality. My Grandpa was one of those who bought a Farmall Cub after walking behind a mule half his life...he loved it! 😊👍
Great little tractor! I grew up on a farm in the '60's and learned to drive a Farmall B when I was just 7 years old. The B had the flat axle housing on the left of the operator and I spent many hours sitting on that spot while my dad plowed the corn.
@@FarmallFanatic tried to add a seat to my B today but couldn't find the right size bolt, everything was too big or too small. My son was sitting there today while I mowed...
Just did this on my 54 super a recently. Thankfully I had my dad there to advise me as I went. Great video for someone who may not have had the help I had tho. Keep up the good work!
The oil filler cap tends to collect a lot of grime. Rinse it out clean each change. After years of running 30w oil, I've gone Rotella multi-grade, along with most of the other equipment around here. Makes more sense to me and should be an upgrade. (of course lotsa folks probably argue that, lol). Yes, I also have an A ('39). It still works here on the farm.
I've never seen an old tractor that didn't have some water in the transmission or final drives due to the housings also being vented and containing air which heats up during operation and cooling down afterwards causing condensation also the same thing happens to fuel tanks and can cause rust especially due to age... any older tractors should after purchasing should have fuel tanks drained and inspected and cleaned. Also placing a magnet away from the fuel outlet to the carburetor will collect and keep any new rust from clogging fuel filters and entering the carb..
It’ll run the pump just fine! Hook it up and go! Yeah put your knees out then it’s over! Go synthetic and call it a day! Man I love this new shop series! Better than watching reruns of leave it to the beaver ! Lol! Water is normal when a tractor sits! But now it’s being serviced and will Be fine! Next on Farmall Fanatic shop we will be changing 70 year old spark plugs with a pipe wrench! And replacing 70 year old points with a hammer and chisel! Bring your popcorn boys and girls! Be ready for part 2
The plugs on the axle housings aren’t for draining, they’re for filling, to drain you have to pull the bottom pan off each side. If you don’t drop the pans and there’s water in them, they can freeze and lock up the gears in the middle of winter.
I picked up my first 1940 Farmall A this week. My gearbox oil looked like chocolate milk. I'm waiting for the gaskets to come in for the final drives so I can do those. Can't imagine what awaits me there!
@@FarmallFanatic I'm going to try the suction gun tomorrow, I checked them today and at least it's black, unlike the chocolate milk that came out of the PTO drain plug...
Another good one hoss👍miss our 2 A’s we had growing up 1 of them still had the belly cultivator bar🤣caddyshack rules💪🏻🇺🇸💪🏻we are dating ourselves by knowing the show “Good Times”
All the tractors we had with the oil bath air filters were recommended to be changed every 10 hours. Seemed like overkill to me unless EXTREMELY dusty. We always changed when changing oil.
Hello that's odd change the oil and you say that there was water in engine oil coming out after you have drained most of oil. Water is heavier than oil,is usually sit the bottom and comes out first. On your air breather I would or have just used some of used engine oil after all it's there just to collect dirt through the air that goes into engine. Kinda neat thing before the days of air filters that are used now. Great idea change oil on something new to you, never know when oil was changed. Have a great day sir.
A friend of mine lived in the north east New England and was a regional Sales Manager for a roofing supply company and they would get calls from people who had new roofs put on and would complain about water ruining their ceilings in their houses. The roofs were not leaking but the water was from condensation in their attics that was causing the problems.
I would not doubt the oil filter you had, and the oil filter I just put on my David Brown, are one in the same. I would have to look at the part # but very close to the same size.
One of the reasons those old engines that are 70+ years of age lasted so long was especially due that the oilbath aircleaners were serviced along with regular oil changes !
Always do a "full" service, meaning full service, if it needs fluids and lubes, do it. Wheel bearings, grease, lithium grease, cable lube, seat hinge pins, steering bearings, tie rod ends, etc. Inspect things carefully. There is not excuse not to take care of your equipment. Thanks for the videos, appreciated greatly.
Not questioning your knowledge or skills, but man I hate seeing crescent wrenches used. I have had to fix more problems from people using these than I care to think of. This is like fingernails on the chalkboard to me. Good video though, love seeing these tractors being reserviced. Just curious, how much did you get this for at auction? This would go for about $1800 where I come from.
Three out of my four tractors, I can't get the little drain plug out that's under the oil filter. The previous owners must have been using a pliers on them. After I take the filter off I must carefully soak up the oil and dirt so not to get dirt down the hole.
I'm new to this. Bought a IH 184 Lowboy. First question is oil related. Went to the local New Holland Dealer (If that's what you Have) . The only SAE 30 he had was diesel oil. Is it safe to use ? Second ; where are the fill plugs and drains on the transmission and rear axle housings. The manual isn't very helpfull with this part of service. And how do you know when it's full ? Tractor has 1300 hrs.
You have an Owners Manual. Go on Ebay and see if they have the Service Manual for sale. You will be leap years ahead. I will tell you this, what oil you run is entirely dependent on where you live and what temperatures you are using the tractor in... colder temperatures are going to require a lighter weight oil. During the summer, I've known guys to run 15/40 diesel oil in them.
Where would I look for a "hydraulic conrtol valve kit , #135478C91 ? Every attempt to find it has failed. I can find the valve but not the kit. It was an option on the 184 as was the creeper. The kit should have the mounting bracket and hardware. The problem being that whenever I raise or lower the mower the three point goes up and down at the sale time.......
Thy do make an adapter for the spin on typ but if you have the cultivator or planter for it do not put it on it will be in the way of the hydraulics no room.
I have a farmall h but whoever had it before Jimmy rigged the alternator, the wiring around is all loose and almost random, the solenoid is rusted out the radiator line is messed the oil cap top is seized and no battery but id like to get it running to grab logs out of the woods
U alt to get the last part for the swing draw bar u have the frunt part Allred it make it Nise for moving wagons or raking hay lol that what I youse my farmalls for
Final Drives do not have anything to do with the rear end oil I'll be changing in the next video. I don't drop the pans for the final drives, I use a suction gun. That will be in Part 3...don't go ballistic if I misspeak lol
Great demonstration video. You provide some excellent knowledge to our community. I hope these little tractors are purring along for another 50 years.
The oil is the life! Great video FF! While it's looks very small in comparison to your other Farmalls, the A damn sure looked good to a farmer in 1939 that had been walking behind a mule for 40-50 years.
Oh I am fully impressed with what this tractor can do...RED POWER all day 👍
@@FarmallFanatic Preach it brother preach it!😁👍👍 I refuse to use the tractor imoji because on my laptop here...it's green..
RED POWER!!!!!!
There was a local banker who famously refused to loan money for tractors clear up to the 50s, but would loan on teams of horses 🙄.
@@dustyroads5753 I don't doubt that one bit! He had the "well they were good enough for grandpa" mentality. My Grandpa was one of those who bought a Farmall Cub after walking behind a mule half his life...he loved it! 😊👍
Great little tractor! I grew up on a farm in the '60's and learned to drive a Farmall B when I was just 7 years old. The B had the flat axle housing on the left of the operator and I spent many hours sitting on that spot while my dad plowed the corn.
I've seen several people put seats there and drive them in the parade. The passenger throws the candy
@@FarmallFanatic That's a great idea!
@@FarmallFanatic tried to add a seat to my B today but couldn't find the right size bolt, everything was too big or too small. My son was sitting there today while I mowed...
Definitely an excellent idea to do a full service on something that is new to you 👍
Just did this on my 54 super a recently. Thankfully I had my dad there to advise me as I went. Great video for someone who may not have had the help I had tho. Keep up the good work!
Thank you for posting these videos, I have a SA that I need to do all of this on. Extremely helpful, thank you.
The oil filler cap tends to collect a lot of grime. Rinse it out clean each change. After years of running 30w oil, I've gone Rotella multi-grade, along with most of the other equipment around here. Makes more sense to me and should be an upgrade. (of course lotsa folks probably argue that, lol). Yes, I also have an A ('39). It still works here on the farm.
I've never seen an old tractor that didn't have some water in the transmission or final drives due to the housings also being vented and containing air which heats up during operation and cooling down afterwards causing condensation also the same thing happens to fuel tanks and can cause rust especially due to age... any older tractors should after purchasing should have fuel tanks drained and inspected and cleaned. Also placing a magnet away from the fuel outlet to the carburetor will collect and keep any new rust from clogging fuel filters and entering the carb..
Yes I also use a magnet to collect the rust.
It’ll run the pump just fine! Hook it up and go! Yeah put your knees out then it’s over! Go synthetic and call it a day! Man I love this new shop series! Better than watching reruns of leave it to the beaver ! Lol! Water is normal when a tractor sits! But now it’s being serviced and will
Be fine!
Next on Farmall Fanatic shop we will be changing 70 year old spark plugs with a pipe wrench! And replacing 70 year old points with a hammer and chisel! Bring your popcorn boys and girls! Be ready for part 2
Part 2..installing a Briggs and Scrap Iron engine in the A! Will it work!? 🤪
@@FarmallFanatic LMFAO!!!!!!
I love the A's, I just bought one myself a few days ago and I love it.
With mine I have loaded tires with rear wheelweights and it pulls like an elephant
@@FarmallFanatic Mine have weights and it pulls amazing
Nice A. I think you’ll be fine on that pump sprayer. Enjoyed the video.
Let's go, let's grow! I like these old tractors. There's just something about them. ❤
Me too! 😁
@@FarmallFanatic I figured. 😁
Love those small tractors 👍👍
The plugs on the axle housings aren’t for draining, they’re for filling, to drain you have to pull the bottom pan off each side. If you don’t drop the pans and there’s water in them, they can freeze and lock up the gears in the middle of winter.
I use a suction gun...does a decent job
Not to mention the sludge that will accumulate......
I picked up my first 1940 Farmall A this week. My gearbox oil looked like chocolate milk. I'm waiting for the gaskets to come in for the final drives so I can do those. Can't imagine what awaits me there!
@@FarmallFanatic I'm going to try the suction gun tomorrow, I checked them today and at least it's black, unlike the chocolate milk that came out of the PTO drain plug...
Now that you own it, start from the beginning and make sure it's done to your satisfaction. Nice little A.
Exactly
Another good one hoss👍miss our 2 A’s we had growing up 1 of them still had the belly cultivator bar🤣caddyshack rules💪🏻🇺🇸💪🏻we are dating ourselves by knowing the show “Good Times”
All the tractors we had with the oil bath air filters were recommended to be changed every 10 hours. Seemed like overkill to me unless EXTREMELY dusty. We always changed when changing oil.
Hello that's odd change the oil and you say that there was water in engine oil coming out after you have drained most of oil. Water is heavier than oil,is usually sit the bottom and comes out first. On your air breather I would or have just used some of used engine oil after all it's there just to collect dirt through the air that goes into engine. Kinda neat thing before the days of air filters that are used now. Great idea change oil on something new to you, never know when oil was changed. Have a great day sir.
A friend of mine lived in the north east New England and was a regional Sales Manager for a roofing supply company and they would get calls from people who had new roofs put on and would complain about water ruining their ceilings in their houses. The roofs were not leaking but the water was from condensation in their attics that was causing the problems.
Insulation issue
I would not doubt the oil filter you had, and the oil filter I just put on my David Brown, are one in the same.
I would have to look at the part # but very close to the same size.
Most likely
You sure make everything look easy!!
A caveman could do it 😁
When I was at Kaffelin's a few weeks ago I bought the last gallon jug they had of the low ash 30W had to buy the rest in quarts.
And I bought the last case
One of the reasons those old engines that are 70+ years of age lasted so long was especially due that the oilbath aircleaners were serviced along with regular oil changes !
Good informative video Farmall 👌💥
Always do a "full" service, meaning full service, if it needs fluids and lubes, do it. Wheel bearings, grease, lithium grease, cable lube, seat hinge pins, steering bearings, tie rod ends, etc.
Inspect things carefully. There is not excuse not to take care of your equipment.
Thanks for the videos, appreciated greatly.
I totally agree
Been waiting for some more videos of the a
Yes it is. Sprays good.
Not questioning your knowledge or skills, but man I hate seeing crescent wrenches used. I have had to fix more problems from people using these than I care to think of. This is like fingernails on the chalkboard to me. Good video though, love seeing these tractors being reserviced. Just curious, how much did you get this for at auction? This would go for about $1800 where I come from.
I prefer the correct tool lol
Catch us up on the hood for the 400? was the emblem wrong or the hood? Looking forward to part 2!
I'm thinking the hood is wrong
How much did you get it for? I might be getting one on Thursday
2200
Welcome to the Farmall Fanatic tractor shop!
Ahahahahahahaha
Where do you buy your oil filters and supplies for this tractor? Are parts hard to find?
Sometimes I'll run up to the dealership but a lot of times I order them online like at steiners
That old girl is clean. I never find a tractor that’s not got an inch of dirt and grease caked on everywhere 😫
Needs a couple small things, but good as they get
@@FarmallFanatic I need to drain the gear oil in my super a. I’m sure it’s gonna smell and look like vomit
Left outside?
@@FarmallFanatic yep. 🥴
Bought a 50's model Farmall Super A. Need to know what the part number on your oil filter was.
376374R1
Three out of my four tractors, I can't get the little drain plug out that's under the oil filter. The previous owners must have been using a pliers on them. After I take the filter off I must carefully soak up the oil and dirt so not to get dirt down the hole.
I can't get the one out of the 756....rounded off by one of the previous owners. I'm gonna eventually get it out and replace it though
@@FarmallFanatic same here, just don't have time whenever I'm changing oil. I'll get them done someday.
Condensation occurs in all engines. After setting for years.
I'm new to this. Bought a IH 184 Lowboy. First question is oil related. Went to the local New Holland Dealer (If that's what you Have) . The only SAE 30 he had was diesel oil. Is it safe to use ? Second ; where are the fill plugs and drains on the transmission and rear axle housings. The manual isn't very helpfull with this part of service. And how do you know when it's full ? Tractor has 1300 hrs.
You have an Owners Manual. Go on Ebay and see if they have the Service Manual for sale. You will be leap years ahead. I will tell you this, what oil you run is entirely dependent on where you live and what temperatures you are using the tractor in... colder temperatures are going to require a lighter weight oil. During the summer, I've known guys to run 15/40 diesel oil in them.
@@FarmallFanatic , Thank you very much , I'm old but this old dog can learn new tricks. Love your videos , you're good at it.
Appreciate it
Where would I look for a "hydraulic conrtol valve kit , #135478C91 ? Every attempt to find it has failed. I can find the valve but not the kit. It was an option on the 184 as was the creeper. The kit should have the mounting bracket and hardware. The problem being that whenever I raise or lower the mower the three point goes up and down at the sale time.......
I ♥ that little A. :)
Thy do make an adapter for the spin on typ but if you have the cultivator or planter for it do not put it on it will be in the way of the hydraulics no room.
Good heads up 👍
That's a small pto so you need an adapter like you use on a Ferguson..
good video man good job
In my C i run that rotella 15-40 diesel oil, people say its got more dinasaure bones and minlrals in it lol
Rotella is good stuff
I have a farmall h but whoever had it before Jimmy rigged the alternator, the wiring around is all loose and almost random, the solenoid is rusted out the radiator line is messed the oil cap top is seized and no battery but id like to get it running to grab logs out of the woods
It usually doesn't take much to get them running
@@FarmallFanatic One piece at a time!
Yep
This makes me want to service white lighting but I just did her a while ago
White lightning ain't no joke
Nah she letting the vald eagles sing without the muffler right now
U alt to get the last part for the swing draw bar u have the frunt part Allred it make it Nise for moving wagons or raking hay lol that what I youse my farmalls for
PMCS is your friend
💪❤️
No doubt
👋😊👍👌
👍
Only John Deere lovers would dislike
Agree
I second your motion ma'am!😊👍👍
Hi everyone
It's time to get after it
C'mon FF...you know the rule for oil level...!!
Yea lol...fill it til it works
@@FarmallFanatic.... ..FILL IT TO THE RIM....!!! LOL...!!!
👍