Back when I started drag racing there was no such thing as the internet. You either read a article in a magazine or it was word to mouth from other racers that would share their experience. When I first started drag racing I was just on DOT factory tires that came with my mustang. Being that it was a five-speed it was very very difficult to make a good launch. After about 2 months of doing that I made the leap to a street legal race slick. At that time most of the mustangs in the magazines were all running m&h tires. So that's where I started. I was only picking up a tenth of a mile with these tires. We tried everything longer burnout less air more air and the car just never hooked up. So that's when I made the decision to stop by my local Goodyear dealer and order a that all slacks 100% race tire. The very first run was 4/10 quicker than any other run I had made at that time. After playing with the air pressure and practicing doing a correct burnout is when everything turned around. Yes I said a correct burnout in the previous sentence. You have some guys that go up there and think they are getting ready to make a pass in a funny car. They smoke the place up so badly that you cannot even see the tree and in a couple cases cars could not even get into the beams because you couldn't see them. And then once they were done putting on their show the whole time they're opening and closing the door to get the smoke out of the driver's compartment. I have to stay now that I'm much older that the years that I spent drag racing were some of my best memories I have from my youth. That's despite the fact on what it cost me every year it was worth every penny I put out. I've been thinking about setting up a car and go back and drag race some more. With all the things that I learned in the '80s that could help me today on knowing exactly what needs to be done and the correct way of doing it. Today it is so much better for new drivers to get a car set up to race quarter mile or road courses. We're back in the eighties the only dinos you were ever going to find was at the shops that build professional engines. It was very rare to have any sort of dyno in your area. Now they have them everywhere. You can go and just have your engine done or put your car together and have it chassis dynoed. A little bit it feels like it takes the fun out of it. Having someone else tuning your car to get everything out of it. I always enjoyed reading another article in the magazines and try it out at the track to see if it worked. I did enjoy your video and I was very glad to see at the end that you used a true race tire to show what the car will run if it has good traction.
back when people made videos on cars that actually knew about cars... lmao @ youtube today.. an idiot would think this video was boring and explained a lot of pointless info... while a guy that was dealing with traction issues would watch it 5 times front to back... i love these videos...i run goodyear f1 supercar z rated tires on my 70 chevelle in case you wanted to know
Awesome video. You put alot into this video. I do not understand why anyone would give you a thumps down and why this channel isnt bigger then it is . Keep putting out great videos .
Awesome step back in time! It's pretty insane you can run 11's all day now on our current street tires. Like the Firehawks are now street tires, really makes you appreciative of advancements!
Yeah and he recommended tubes for them. weird. did you run them with tubes? my 4 speed mustang II shredded some 15x12 wheel bias ply nylon tires and it was rubber and ropes inside the sidewall disappearedm im thinking imay have should have used air tubes inside them. well im building a 2nd gen camaro right now, had 4 prior- this one shall be the charm 4 sure.
I was a hardcore street racer back in these days, Hoosiers, and the BFG drag radials kicked ass. Testing with a 4speed and stock suspension is a true testament. I spent less money on tires that would hook than I would've on suspension work..
Nice ..just bought some 295 50 15 Hoosier quick time tires for my 68 dodge charger now I know I didn't do to bad on selecting tires thanks for the knowledge and test review
It would have been nice to use a durometer on the tread as opposed to wear ratings to nail the softness down. I also wonder what treating the tires with Hot Lap or Track Claw, softening chemicals, would do. We used it in stock car racing and would see pretty big drops in hardness when using the durometer. I hated messing with the tires, but everyone was doing it and we were forced to. We'd use that blue towel on "endless" rolls, wrap the tire in the towel, soak it, then wrap the tire in Saran Wrap, then put it in a black waste bag and let it sit in the sun. We spent more time messing with tires than anything else.
Waaaay back when we did this the idea was to show tires that were readily available to purchase locally or via mail order. A durometer would be great, but not a lot of guys have access to one.
Never too late to remind folks that just because it has DoT on it, the tyre may still not be legal for road use. The DOT means it is made to a minimum DoT standard and some "drag" tyres will still be marked with something like "Race Only" or "Not for Highway Use" or similar. For some states there may also be a minimum tread requirement. Those that ARE approved for highway use may, in turn, have markings that with a restrictive speed rating.
Maintaining that crinkle = traction. That was the point of this video. Tires that grip and tires that don't. If you think they all lost traction then you watched a different video. At least 1 had full traction. Watching the other one pull front tires not only on the start but hitting 2nd gear too tells me he has complete traction. Any slippage there was good or else it might have drug the bumper and slam it back down. What kind of mustang guru has no video's of his mustang? Maybe it's because you dont have one.
Tim Harris??????? You look very familiar even though the photo from your tire request view is probably years old. Are you curious about the tires because of a mopar?????
Oldschool leaf and traction bars! Gotta love it. Honestly it's probably a better indicator of what tires work well.. I miss runnign those cheap L60's.. ass end of the car would walk all over the place when I used them on my daily.
Good test on how well the tires grip the road/track surface. But i would not use ET as a determination as which tire performed better. Unless of course you use the same wheels to test each tire. Weight of the wheel increases or decreases rotational mass. Higher rotational mass is a killer of ET times an 60' times! I know several cars that have taken as much as 1.5seconds off their ET times and trap speeds of 10-12mph by simply changing wheels, but using the same tires. Not being a troll, pessimist, or a dick... just trying to help.
Back in the 90's I tested several of these tires on my Camaro at the track. The ET Street bias ply was by far the best at the track, and the worst on the street. Almost crashed it a couple times in Florida downpour rain. The BFG drag radial SUCKED. Best 60 foot I could get was 1.70 and that was rolling into the throttle. The ET Street did a 1.50 for comparison. The BFG drag radial worked well in the rain on the street. I also tried the Nitto drag radials and blew them off on the 2-3 shift and got the car sideways. Not fun. They were a good street tire though. When the Mickey ET Street Radials came out, I switched to those and have had great luck with them.
It would be nice to see a radial comparison. Nice car. Don’t know if you have adjustable shocks on the rear if you do it may help to lessen the rebound. This might help to eliminate/lessen the bouncing Of the rear of the car which I noticed on all of your launches. Just the thoughts of an old man. I really enjoyed the. Video.
I’ve used the BFg comp drag radio and was told the burn out is a waste of time with radios so I always drove around the box why waste your tires if it don’t do nothing and they hooked great no burn out
Caught my eye when he showed the 17" pony wheel with the nitto extreme 555. I ran the 285/40r17 on 2001 cobra wheels in back back of my 95 mustang GT. Every time I ever ran on that car would spin and send it sideways on launch till I bought these. With the nitto, it would launch hard and arrow straight.......till the trans blew hahaha
On radials, you want to add air pressure, not drop it!!! We used to run a 283ci, 9 sec. Vega on R50 radials, running at 50 psi! Pulled the wheels in the air every time!!!
Hey i have a quick question, are the hoosier vintage tires only designed for road racing? Will they perform the way they do in a road race on the drag strip or on the street? Please get back to me.
why didnt they show the tread of the tire they are talking about when they were talking about them. most of the time they didnt. instead they just showed to t/a
I have also done a burn out and did not make a difference so why do people do the burn out I had a 67 barracuda big block with the comp ya drag radial and they hooked the same in the box or driving around it but I’ve always been told a waste of time my car was a low 13 car not that fast but funso does it make a diff with a higher horsepower car or is the burn pig with radials a ware of time if someone know please leave a comment thank you
Car should have been an auto to be more accurate.. although I did bracket race successfully with a manual.. not everyone is consistent with their shifts.
I've pulled 1.7 60's on junk cast off tires. Worn out snow tires are usually my weapon of choice, but if you want to see a good hook for a low budget build? The 2-3 check ball capsule was leaking in this video- ua-cam.com/video/50aW5_RN3yM/v-deo.html .That is a 1.7 on old dry 17" street tires and ZR-1 wheels from a parts car. People get too excited about spending money on slow cars.
It was. I didn't even want to film because I knew the 2-3 circuit in the 4L60 was leaking and would likely flare at WOT. It really was a good hook on junk tires. If you bothered to notice the much faster bolt on 4th gen suddenly appear and win? That guy has hundreds of passes on his car and was on DR's. He came up afterward's an said, "Nice tree" then looked at the complete junk I was running and shook his head, so I can understand if you are feeling miffed. Thanks for watching
Which time? I have the timeslips at altitude to prove my runs. My point was that I've seen great budget street/race cars get bankrupted by this thought process. Sure, I understand that outdated tires (and I can date them) lose certain qualities. But to tell people that they have to spend hundreds of dollars every season to be competitive is absurd. The sketchiest run I ever had was on a tall sidewall full drag set of tires that were brand new. Wheels in the air, nice landing, then white knuckled murder fist to keep it in the lane and off the cones while dealing with a cage that was seemingly designed to catch every loose part of a fire suit. I'd rather a budget street car that is slower than 11.49.
Suspect the momentary loss of traction right after the hit on many of the tires was likely due to unwrapping of the leaf springs. You could see the back of the car lifting slightly.
Great great video, I'm still confused on what I should buy for track use only tire for a 6 speed car making 400 rwhp, I'd have to drive to and back from the track 2 hours each way.
+Stevie Bottz Get yourself a small utility trailer and a small hitch welded on.. because with a 6spd your best bet is a Bias Ply set of tires which even if you get a DOT rated set. Do Not try and drive them on the streets. They're extremely sketchy and with the movement in the sideway turning is always sketchy, and if you're caught in the rain.. forget about it your sitting it out til the road dries.. you cannot run radials up front and bias in back( Most tracks wont let you.. and even if they did you get squirrelly on the top end and can easily wreck it) so you'll need Front Runner Bias ply and Rear Bias ply tires. Bias Ply is alot more forgiving on your rear end components and absorb the shock of the launch alot better. With Radials the sidewalls are much stiffer as explained in this video so more shock hits your rear end and depending on what you have done to it at all.. Its really only a matter of time before you blow it up and with a M6 its usually Much earlier than you think. Drag Radials really were designed for Auto Trans cars, where the launches arent has harsh really. but obviously when you get into high enough power you'll want to get a stronger rear end with whatever you plan on doing.
+slasher7555 Oh and i almost forgot to make a suggestion.. MT ET Streets Bias Ply version.. Dont really mess w/ slicks until you have a built rearend to take the punishment. you can't really go off this video that much since its from 1999, Tons of new options have been made available since lol
slasher7555 Thanks for the imput, my TA has a moser 9" with 410 gears 6speed, the entire rear including axles and suspension mods are done. I cannot trailer it so I was looking into toyo proxes tq drag radials, do you think those would work for me? I would like a sticky tire that will take the 6 speed and still sorta be streetable, thx In advance..
Ok so your rear will be able to take the shock abuse, but you won't get your best 60ft with DRs. Bias Ply will always be best for a stick car.. You most definitely can but a small hitch on your bird(it was an option too believe it or not from factory) its been done many times, by like the guys who run the Hot Rod Drag Week and a lot of guys who drive their cars to/from the track. But if you don't want to that's a different story. You won't get your best 60ft but you'll still hook. Now I'm still personally attached to the Mickey Thompson ET Streets so this case you would go with The Radial version. But there's also the newer ET Street II's, and ET Street R, ET Street Pro Etc. The ET Streets are what paved the way and set all the track records. The Toyo Proxes are good tires don't get me wrong, and alot of people like their price.. I've heard them Compared to the Nitto NT05s, might have a little issue hooking w/ the M6 initially, since DR's are made more to suit an Auto car. There's quite a few threads you can read about these tires on Ls1Tech that are comparisons and frankly the New ET Street Radials always came ahead in favor. Also think about some front Runners, you can save usually like 50lbs of rotating mass up front with them. Alot of Fbody guys and vette guys use GTO Spare Rims with MT Sportsman 26-6-17s on the front. you usually can shave another .1-.15 with the reduced rotational weight.
As for the car, I kind've figured it was a Fbody when i read 6spd ;) I'm an Fbody guy myself. I have a Pro-Touring 3rd Gen Iroc. Under the Hood (my videos are a bit out of date) is a forged 385 Stroker running a Holley Stealth Ram Tunnel ram intake and Stand Alone Holley EFI. Should be putting down around 450rwhp, its built to whip around a road course or hit the 1/4mile. Will be prepping for a cage at the end of this season to come out strong w/ a 300shot to add to the mix hehe. My daily wheels are 265s up front 295s in back Bridgestone Potenza RE760 Sports which are amazing for turning.. and 1/4 will see the GTO Spares up front and MT ET Streets Radials in back since its a A4 trans
Weight of tires is a factor , as is the weight of the wheels. On the same Weld Rodlite wheels, going from a Mickey Thompson ET Street S/S radial size 295/65R15 to a Goodyear Eagle radial slick (30/9.0R15) actually 29.5” tall, my ET dropped .128 second and my MPH picked up 2.48 mph. The weight difference between each tire was 16 lbs. 38 lbs for the M/T and 22 lbs for the Goodyear. Now consider besides the tire weight differences, the difference between forged aluminum wheels some of these had (Weld Draglites), the cast aluminum wheels (Ansen Sprint type) and steel rims, makes this comparison so bogus, not to mention the fact of a stick shifted manual trans ! What a waste of time.
he says, I chose a manual, so I would have more control over rpm" that is the typical crap people say. because they believe shifting a manual, "makes you a man". you have just as much "control" with an auto. IF you're smart enough to shift it manually!!
lol. okay tell me how u balance and slip the clutch, down shift rev match and power shift in an auto since "you have just as much "control" with an auto"
EWG first of dipshit, we're talking about DRAG RACING!! there's no downshifting, or rev matching in DRAG RACING!! and please do explain what "balancing" is supposed to mean? are you BALANCING your cup while telling your little friends what a badass you are?
Back when I started drag racing there was no such thing as the internet. You either read a article in a magazine or it was word to mouth from other racers that would share their experience. When I first started drag racing I was just on DOT factory tires that came with my mustang. Being that it was a five-speed it was very very difficult to make a good launch. After about 2 months of doing that I made the leap to a street legal race slick. At that time most of the mustangs in the magazines were all running m&h tires. So that's where I started. I was only picking up a tenth of a mile with these tires. We tried everything longer burnout less air more air and the car just never hooked up. So that's when I made the decision to stop by my local Goodyear dealer and order a that all slacks 100% race tire. The very first run was 4/10 quicker than any other run I had made at that time. After playing with the air pressure and practicing doing a correct burnout is when everything turned around. Yes I said a correct burnout in the previous sentence. You have some guys that go up there and think they are getting ready to make a pass in a funny car. They smoke the place up so badly that you cannot even see the tree and in a couple cases cars could not even get into the beams because you couldn't see them. And then once they were done putting on their show the whole time they're opening and closing the door to get the smoke out of the driver's compartment.
I have to stay now that I'm much older that the years that I spent drag racing were some of my best memories I have from my youth. That's despite the fact on what it cost me every year it was worth every penny I put out. I've been thinking about setting up a car and go back and drag race some more. With all the things that I learned in the '80s that could help me today on knowing exactly what needs to be done and the correct way of doing it.
Today it is so much better for new drivers to get a car set up to race quarter mile or road courses. We're back in the eighties the only dinos you were ever going to find was at the shops that build professional engines. It was very rare to have any sort of dyno in your area. Now they have them everywhere. You can go and just have your engine done or put your car together and have it chassis dynoed. A little bit it feels like it takes the fun out of it. Having someone else tuning your car to get everything out of it. I always enjoyed reading another article in the magazines and try it out at the track to see if it worked.
I did enjoy your video and I was very glad to see at the end that you used a true race tire to show what the car will run if it has good traction.
back when people made videos on cars that actually knew about cars... lmao @ youtube today.. an idiot would think this video was boring and explained a lot of pointless info... while a guy that was dealing with traction issues would watch it 5 times front to back... i love these videos...i run goodyear f1 supercar z rated tires on my 70 chevelle in case you wanted to know
had this video on a loop for about 2 hrs
Awesome video. You put alot into this video. I do not understand why anyone would give you a thumps down and why this channel isnt bigger then it is . Keep putting out great videos .
Awesome step back in time! It's pretty insane you can run 11's all day now on our current street tires. Like the Firehawks are now street tires, really makes you appreciative of advancements!
OMG this is so old.. I ran those L60 Dirt Track tires on the street back in the day.. They were actually damn good for what was out back then.
Yeah and he recommended tubes for them. weird. did you run them with tubes? my 4 speed mustang II shredded some 15x12 wheel bias ply nylon tires and it was rubber and ropes inside the sidewall disappearedm im thinking imay have should have used air tubes inside them. well im building a 2nd gen camaro right now, had 4 prior- this one shall be the charm 4 sure.
this camera is from 1994
I was a hardcore street racer back in these days, Hoosiers, and the BFG drag radials kicked ass. Testing with a 4speed and stock suspension is a true testament. I spent less money on tires that would hook than I would've on suspension work..
Nice ..just bought some 295 50 15 Hoosier quick time tires for my 68 dodge charger now I know I didn't do to bad on selecting tires thanks for the knowledge and test review
This guy is funny but still serious at the same time. And explains everything in good detail need more of this thanks sir
Great vid. Wish someone would do an update at this level. Kudos!!
Our local racetrack, Raceway Park, Englishtown NJ closed down a couple of years ago unfortunately. Someone else will need to take up the project
It woulda been nice to see 60' times.
60 times would of really told the story
@@mikeschwindt7407 Watching the camera and the crinkle side wall tells all you need. If you know anything....
@@starbattles1 well the way the tire expands is also just as important...
Damn awesome vid thanks forget all the haters they dont know jack sqaut
It would have been nice to use a durometer on the tread as opposed to wear ratings to nail the softness down. I also wonder what treating the tires with Hot Lap or Track Claw, softening chemicals, would do. We used it in stock car racing and would see pretty big drops in hardness when using the durometer. I hated messing with the tires, but everyone was doing it and we were forced to. We'd use that blue towel on "endless" rolls, wrap the tire in the towel, soak it, then wrap the tire in Saran Wrap, then put it in a black waste bag and let it sit in the sun. We spent more time messing with tires than anything else.
Waaaay back when we did this the idea was to show tires that were readily available to purchase locally or via mail order. A durometer would be great, but not a lot of guys have access to one.
Never too late to remind folks that just because it has DoT on it, the tyre may still not be legal for road use.
The DOT means it is made to a minimum DoT standard and some "drag" tyres will still be marked with something like "Race Only" or "Not for Highway Use" or similar. For some states there may also be a minimum tread requirement.
Those that ARE approved for highway use may, in turn, have markings that with a restrictive speed rating.
*20 years later* oh how technology has changed
LOL! That Yenko Deuce in your last run of the day is completely out of the picture by the time you shifted into second.
+Marlon Medina That was a beautiful FAST 9 second car.
Truly a awesome video thanks for keeping it real
my civic that I don't own would beat that camero. now we will argue about the civic I don't actually own
XD
cloud chaser Bull.
insert sarcasm. understand?
cloud chaser Yep, i was joking responding to your joke.
cloud chaser This is Drag Radial 101
that camaro really needs harder settings on the rebound to keep it from breaking traction when launching
cartapes People have no idea when this video was shot so they are making bad assumptions about these tires. PLEASE POST DATE OF VIDEO SHOOT.
That wheel hop is horrendous
WOW!Just stick to your mommys Honda fool.
Seams that the suspension is unloading and traction is lost on all tires tested.
Maintaining that crinkle = traction.
That was the point of this video. Tires that grip and tires that don't. If you think they all lost traction then you watched a different video. At least 1 had full traction. Watching the other one pull front tires not only on the start but hitting 2nd gear too tells me he has complete traction. Any slippage there was good or else it might have drug the bumper and slam it back down.
What kind of mustang guru has no video's of his mustang? Maybe it's because you dont have one.
@@starbattles1 country countryboy don't know road apples from rat shit
This video was awesome. Thanks to the guys that made it
Holy cow this is an old video!
I'd like to see a drag radial test
Tim Harris??????? You look very familiar even though the photo from your tire request view is probably years old. Are you curious about the tires because of a mopar?????
A bit less spring in the rear of that car, and that Hoosier would get incredibly close to that Firestone.
Your test car needs some suspension work.
Mark - I agree
Mark - I know nothing to car suspension and it looked like that to me too. lol !
+Mark - car was unloading as it got out.. still an awesome old video.
+Mark - Yeah- we decided to run that car because it likely represented the typical low budget bracket racer at the time.
Oldschool leaf and traction bars! Gotta love it. Honestly it's probably a better indicator of what tires work well.. I miss runnign those cheap L60's.. ass end of the car would walk all over the place when I used them on my daily.
Good test on how well the tires grip the road/track surface. But i would not use ET as a determination as which tire performed better. Unless of course you use the same wheels to test each tire. Weight of the wheel increases or decreases rotational mass. Higher rotational mass is a killer of ET times an 60' times! I know several cars that have taken as much as 1.5seconds off their ET times and trap speeds of 10-12mph by simply changing wheels, but using the same tires. Not being a troll, pessimist, or a dick... just trying to help.
Back in the 90's I tested several of these tires on my Camaro at the track. The ET Street bias ply was by far the best at the track, and the worst on the street. Almost crashed it a couple times in Florida downpour rain. The BFG drag radial SUCKED. Best 60 foot I could get was 1.70 and that was rolling into the throttle. The ET Street did a 1.50 for comparison. The BFG drag radial worked well in the rain on the street. I also tried the Nitto drag radials and blew them off on the 2-3 shift and got the car sideways. Not fun. They were a good street tire though. When the Mickey ET Street Radials came out, I switched to those and have had great luck with them.
Would like to see Toyo bias ply and radial drag slick comparisons.
It would be nice to see a radial comparison. Nice car. Don’t know if you have adjustable shocks on the rear if you do it may help to lessen the rebound. This might help to eliminate/lessen the bouncing Of the rear of the car which I noticed on all of your launches. Just the thoughts of an old man. I really enjoyed the. Video.
I’ve used the BFg comp drag radio and was told the burn out is a waste of time with radios so I always drove around the box why waste your tires if it don’t do nothing and they hooked great no burn out
Amazing vid , much better then all the new fucking shit with this "youtubers"
Ta were the first to come out with dr,s. They work best when really broke in to slick
how times have changed
I swear there’s nothing more exciting than seeing a classic/old school hot rod breaking into the low 12s. This new tech is so fast that it’s boring
This is the type of stuff they should teach us in school.
Andrew Escamilla they used to but most schools took out shop class
Big difference between steel wheels and alum wheels and that last tun against the yenko nova wow that guy was gone......🧟
Caught my eye when he showed the 17" pony wheel with the nitto extreme 555. I ran the 285/40r17 on 2001 cobra wheels in back back of my 95 mustang GT. Every time I ever ran on that car would spin and send it sideways on launch till I bought these. With the nitto, it would launch hard and arrow straight.......till the trans blew hahaha
yeah the hoosiers are awesome dot tire. the drag radials usally don't work on stick cars. get adjustable rear shocks and watch the 60s drop.
Woah so thats how Russel Crow got into the film industry
This fine at this track but tire performance will vary from track to track. What works here may not work at another track. Track prep is key.
Mickey thompson rules!!
On radials, you want to add air pressure, not drop it!!! We used to run a 283ci, 9 sec. Vega on R50 radials, running at 50 psi! Pulled the wheels in the air every time!!!
Haha he said their test were unbiased, witty
My ass, they also.used aluminum rims vs steel
would be nice to have some background information where and who made these videos just as a reference point
See, that's why I run slicks! 14.5 x 32x15 @ 6.5 psi. 1.29 60ft at 9.26 in a 2500 lb. car.
Dry hopping ?!? SMH...
Nice! Could you post the 60' times?
Great video man! Helped me a LOT
I didn't see any m/t sportsman tires. it seems like they'd be one of the better choices, especially for daily drivers
they are JUNK for race..
Good running Camaro. Dependable fun vehicle
No need to melt the BFG radial base tire.
fastfordman1965 so it is a waste of time doing a burnout with drag radials
True. They're made out of a rubber tree and they will outlast every vehicle you put 'em on.
Line locks are fun
Hey i have a quick question, are the hoosier vintage tires only designed for road racing? Will they perform the way they do in a road race on the drag strip or on the street? Please get back to me.
Great test. Very good info. Would have been even better if you focased more on 60' times.
Thanks allot this video helped me allot now my choice is clear
Very good test....thanks!
cool vid!
That's a solid car!!
maybe use a test car that's setup right.....car launches,then unloads the tire, so this test doesn't mean shit
No. you dont mean shit!.this is a perfect test for a low budget car.And showing which tires unloaded more is a testament..Go fix your bicycle
why didnt they show the tread of the tire they are talking about when they were talking about them. most of the time they didnt. instead they just showed to t/a
great video
Excellent video with very good information.
I have also done a burn out and did not make a difference so why do people do the burn out I had a 67 barracuda big block with the comp ya drag radial and they hooked the same in the box or driving around it but I’ve always been told a waste of time my car was a low 13 car not that fast but funso does it make a diff with a higher horsepower car or is the burn pig with radials a ware of time if someone know please leave a comment thank you
Car should have been an auto to be more accurate.. although I did bracket race successfully with a manual.. not everyone is consistent with their shifts.
+ISEE YOU Rick, the host, won 5 class championships with a 4 speed Camaro back in his day.
That's nice..nothing more consistent than an Auto.. if he wanted more load a big converter or transbrake would have made it more even.
@@badlilstang Powerglide beefed up with a transbrake.
Looks like he's about to fall asleep with those long blinks lol
What were your engine specs besides knowing its a 350?
Why you don't show NITTO NT 05R or slick???
wwwd1350com bc this is from 1976
Hard to believe just tires can make a 7/10 difference in ET.
it depends on what you start out with
Farm girl
I want the wheels from the Hoosiers
I've pulled 1.7 60's on junk cast off tires. Worn out snow tires are usually my weapon of choice, but if you want to see a good hook for a low budget build? The 2-3 check ball capsule was leaking in this video- ua-cam.com/video/50aW5_RN3yM/v-deo.html .That is a 1.7 on old dry 17" street tires and ZR-1 wheels from a parts car. People get too excited about spending money on slow cars.
i just watched. i dont believe that was anywhere near 1.7 lol
It was. I didn't even want to film because I knew the 2-3 circuit in the 4L60 was leaking and would likely flare at WOT. It really was a good hook on junk tires. If you bothered to notice the much faster bolt on 4th gen suddenly appear and win? That guy has hundreds of passes on his car and was on DR's. He came up afterward's an said, "Nice tree" then looked at the complete junk I was running and shook his head, so I can understand if you are feeling miffed. Thanks for watching
The Fiasco Garage lol you never did that time ever lol. Thanks for the laugh thougj
Which time? I have the timeslips at altitude to prove my runs. My point was that I've seen great budget street/race cars get bankrupted by this thought process. Sure, I understand that outdated tires (and I can date them) lose certain qualities. But to tell people that they have to spend hundreds of dollars every season to be competitive is absurd. The sketchiest run I ever had was on a tall sidewall full drag set of tires that were brand new. Wheels in the air, nice landing, then white knuckled murder fist to keep it in the lane and off the cones while dealing with a cage that was seemingly designed to catch every loose part of a fire suit. I'd rather a budget street car that is slower than 11.49.
Thanks Great Job !
Why didn’t u show 60ft I thought that was the point of this test
Is this the dude from the muscle show on drive?
No
Does anybody know what the name of the 4-hole Enkie wheels the bfg's were on are called?
CHAMP 500 I THINK....
Who else just had this pop up in their recommended videos
If you put crazy glue all around the tire you will have more traction
This guy reminds me of Mr. Spaghetti for some reason
Unbiased tire video would be biased towards radial tires. :-p
They didnt have 275/15/60 nitto drag radials back then? If they had, those hoosiers would have a run for their money.
hahahahahahah
Mike Musto or something with hair 😂😂😂
Bfg drag don’t hook till worn
Suspect the momentary loss of traction right after the hit on many of the tires was likely due to unwrapping of the leaf springs. You could see the back of the car lifting slightly.
U shoulda tested a g body
so i'm going to guess he never did the drag radial test.
I thank that camaro was new when this video was mad haha
I think u needed more air pressure
Dayum 9 psi?
Hoosiers
Nice
Cool but the tires tested are unfortunately outdated.
Great great video, I'm still confused on what I should buy for track use only tire for a 6 speed car making 400 rwhp, I'd have to drive to and back from the track 2 hours each way.
+Stevie Bottz Get yourself a small utility trailer and a small hitch welded on.. because with a 6spd your best bet is a Bias Ply set of tires which even if you get a DOT rated set. Do Not try and drive them on the streets. They're extremely sketchy and with the movement in the sideway turning is always sketchy, and if you're caught in the rain.. forget about it your sitting it out til the road dries.. you cannot run radials up front and bias in back( Most tracks wont let you.. and even if they did you get squirrelly on the top end and can easily wreck it) so you'll need Front Runner Bias ply and Rear Bias ply tires. Bias Ply is alot more forgiving on your rear end components and absorb the shock of the launch alot better. With Radials the sidewalls are much stiffer as explained in this video so more shock hits your rear end and depending on what you have done to it at all.. Its really only a matter of time before you blow it up and with a M6 its usually Much earlier than you think. Drag Radials really were designed for Auto Trans cars, where the launches arent has harsh really. but obviously when you get into high enough power you'll want to get a stronger rear end with whatever you plan on doing.
+slasher7555 Oh and i almost forgot to make a suggestion.. MT ET Streets Bias Ply version.. Dont really mess w/ slicks until you have a built rearend to take the punishment. you can't really go off this video that much since its from 1999, Tons of new options have been made available since lol
slasher7555 Thanks for the imput, my TA has a moser 9" with 410 gears 6speed, the entire rear including axles and suspension mods are done. I cannot trailer it so I was looking into toyo proxes tq drag radials, do you think those would work for me? I would like a sticky tire that will take the 6 speed and still sorta be streetable, thx In advance..
Ok so your rear will be able to take the shock abuse, but you won't get your best 60ft with DRs. Bias Ply will always be best for a stick car.. You most definitely can but a small hitch on your bird(it was an option too believe it or not from factory) its been done many times, by like the guys who run the Hot Rod Drag Week and a lot of guys who drive their cars to/from the track. But if you don't want to that's a different story. You won't get your best 60ft but you'll still hook. Now I'm still personally attached to the Mickey Thompson ET Streets so this case you would go with The Radial version. But there's also the newer ET Street II's, and ET Street R, ET Street Pro Etc. The ET Streets are what paved the way and set all the track records. The Toyo Proxes are good tires don't get me wrong, and alot of people like their price.. I've heard them Compared to the Nitto NT05s, might have a little issue hooking w/ the M6 initially, since DR's are made more to suit an Auto car. There's quite a few threads you can read about these tires on Ls1Tech that are comparisons and frankly the New ET Street Radials always came ahead in favor. Also think about some front Runners, you can save usually like 50lbs of rotating mass up front with them. Alot of Fbody guys and vette guys use GTO Spare Rims with MT Sportsman 26-6-17s on the front. you usually can shave another .1-.15 with the reduced rotational weight.
As for the car, I kind've figured it was a Fbody when i read 6spd ;) I'm an Fbody guy myself. I have a Pro-Touring 3rd Gen Iroc. Under the Hood (my videos are a bit out of date) is a forged 385 Stroker running a Holley Stealth Ram Tunnel ram intake and Stand Alone Holley EFI. Should be putting down around 450rwhp, its built to whip around a road course or hit the 1/4mile. Will be prepping for a cage at the end of this season to come out strong w/ a 300shot to add to the mix hehe. My daily wheels are 265s up front 295s in back Bridgestone Potenza RE760 Sports which are amazing for turning.. and 1/4 will see the GTO Spares up front and MT ET Streets Radials in back since its a A4 trans
Weight of tires is a factor , as is the weight of the wheels. On the same Weld Rodlite wheels, going from a Mickey Thompson ET Street S/S radial size 295/65R15 to a Goodyear Eagle radial slick (30/9.0R15) actually 29.5” tall, my ET dropped .128 second and my MPH picked up 2.48 mph. The weight difference between each tire was 16 lbs. 38 lbs for the M/T and 22 lbs for the Goodyear. Now consider besides the tire weight differences, the difference between forged aluminum wheels some of these had (Weld Draglites), the cast aluminum wheels (Ansen Sprint type) and steel rims, makes this comparison so bogus, not to mention the fact of a stick shifted manual trans ! What a waste of time.
👍
Radials on a stick car LMAO THATS SMART
Its not for pussys
Your not supposed to have your tires deflated a bit so they grip better
Yes you are
Wheeler walker junior I dare you
oh boy
"Dis tire.."
"Afta da burnout..."
"We tess-ed our tire..."
Jesus christ....listening to him was like spending a day in a speech therapists nightmare.
radials + stick.. lol
he says, I chose a manual, so I would have more control over rpm" that is the typical crap people say. because they believe shifting a manual, "makes you a man". you have just as much "control" with an auto. IF you're smart enough to shift it manually!!
No, the driver won 5 championships with his 4 speed Camaro back when he was racing at E-town. It was his choice of transmission.
I should add, the guy who bought his car had no luck. It is the driver's choice.
cartapes it may have been his choice, but he's perpetuating the myth, and lie that a manual trans.somehow gives you any more "control" than an auto.
lol. okay tell me how u balance and slip the clutch, down shift rev match and power shift in an auto since "you have just as much "control" with an auto"
EWG first of dipshit, we're talking about DRAG RACING!! there's no downshifting, or rev matching in DRAG RACING!! and please do explain what "balancing" is supposed to mean? are you BALANCING your cup while telling your little friends what a badass you are?