awesome how to video.. I'm doing a first time ever carburetor rebuild on my 77' IH Loadstar's holley 2300 carb. One of the advantages of today's internet has a wealth of knowledge on how to do, find correct parts, kits on forums and videos. Giving folks more confidence on tackling new projects
Thank you! We do live in a great time when it comes to trying to learn new things! It's all right at our fingertips. Good luck on your rebuild. I hope it turns out 👍
Sir. This is a very good video. Well done. I have a 1981 cj5, 304v8 that is running terrible. I hope I can rebuild the 7448-1 Holley 2300 so that it runs as good as the mustang
Alf, your videos have helped me many times over as I restore my 66,AT C4, in line 6 2 door coupe. I really appreciate how you take the time to cover all the anticipated questions that arise and make it easy to follow along. I just finished watching your video on changing the shift shaft which again was very informing and something I will need to tackle next spring. Could you please offer some suggestions as to why when I move the floor shifter to a forward gear it shifts pretty smooth like it should but when I shift into reverse I get more of a "clunk" and a stronger jolt? Thanks again and please keep those great video's coming!
Thank you very much! I'm not the most experienced when it comes to the internal workings of the trans. However, I would probably advise to check fluid level and possibly the adjustment of the reverse band. I only use motorcraft type-F fluid.
I'm so glad my 351w has a 2150 carb. Easier to rebuild and to adjust. It's not that Holley's are bad, it's just that motorcrafts are easy to work on and in my opinion more reliable. Set it and forget it.
What a fantastic vid. Are you ever doing one on a 2100 rebuild? 👍🏼 Also a question for my ‘68-289: if my heat pipe/stove-pipe to my choke (Autolite 2100) is gone due to header install, can I just plug the port on the choke and adjust? (Car is never winter/cold-weather driven). There is still a bracket that runs a heater hose up against the choke housing. 🇨🇦
Hey Barry, thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. So yes I will do a 2100 rebuild eventually. Its just a matter of time before I get one in the shop to do and it will get filmed. So on your choke, I would recommend an electric choke conversion. Even though its never driven in the winter, it does help the engine run better on start ups. Mike's Carburetor Parts sells them and I will put a link here. There are a couple different options for the 2100 carb so make sure you look at them both and get the right one if you go that route. www.carburetor-parts.com/Electric-Choke-Conversion-Kit--CU1110_p_3878.html
just an fyi, that is a holley 7508 carb. pretty rare economaster model made for fuel economy. one thing that will trip you up on this carb is the mix screws work in reverse. I have one of these on my 66 galaxie
Great Videos! I love all of them! Thank you for sharing your experience. I just rebuilt my 2100 and bought a vacuum gauge to set it up correctly. I seem to have a problem I’m hoping you can help me figure out what to do next. The engine vacuum is jumping constantly between 17 and 20 (shaking back and forth)and the engine won’t run very smooth. I’m getting conflicting info online and was hoping you could direct me to a correct good source. It’s a 69 302. Thanks
Dave, typically when I see my vacuum gauge bouncing, it tells me that one of my cylinders is misfiring. What happens is when its that cylinder's turn to fire and contribute to the team, it doesn't and just kind of goes along for the ride. The engine speed will actually slow down when its that cylinder's turn to fire and thus you get this vacuum drop which is displayed on the gauge. Even if the compression is good and its able to pull a vacuum, its not enough because its actually slowing down the engine. I would probably be going into misfire diagnostics mode on something like this. Which would include removing the spark plugs and wires for inspection. If nothing definite is found there, I would be going to compression checks. Its hard to go off of advise of people telling you worst case scenario with head gaskets. At the end of the day, you need to do more research and you need to do more testing to gather evidence to support what is happening. What you know, the engine is not running smooth and you have a misfire. Why you have a misfire is what you need to figure out. I hope that helps, let me know what you find.
Thanks for the time and explanation Alf. I will follow your advice and get back to you about what I find. I can’t work on the car for the next few days but when I do I will let you know how it goes. Thanks
@@AlfsMustangGarage well, I spent some time today working on the car. I first checked firing order, then sprayed card cleaner around intake and carb with no uptick in engine. I pulled each wire off one at a time from distributor while engine running with noticeable issues with all cylinders but #2… well I then decided to compression test each cylinder. They are all pretty low at 90 to about 105 psi (drum roll……) except for #2. It read 75 first time then 45 second time and I did a wet test and it actually dropped to about 32.(good grief) Could this mean I have a sticking valve? Oh and all the plugs looked ok but #2 was wet I ran the motor at various rpms for a while hoping it would help. Instead of helping now I’ve got a ticking sound coming from that valve cover. Anyway, what are my options next? Thanks for your help
On the top of the metering block under the rim of the plate of the airhorn are 2 vents , i have one that seems plugged off and the other is open and enabling outside air into the booster and it is dripping gas into the barrel off the booster , what is the purpose of those 2 passages and should they have a ball bearing check valve or plug in them. Thanks for the helpful video.
You guys rock!! I’m so happy to see my car there😍
Thanks Juan! I appreciate the opportunity.
Looks great
Thank you
im 14 and rebuilding my first carb rn all alone on my project car.. thanks!
Very cool! It's nice to hear from our younger audiences. Keep up the good work!
awesome how to video.. I'm doing a first time ever carburetor rebuild on my 77' IH Loadstar's holley 2300 carb. One of the advantages of today's internet has a wealth of knowledge on how to do, find correct parts, kits on forums and videos. Giving folks more confidence on tackling new projects
Thank you! We do live in a great time when it comes to trying to learn new things! It's all right at our fingertips. Good luck on your rebuild. I hope it turns out 👍
Sir. This is a very good video. Well done. I have a 1981 cj5, 304v8 that is running terrible. I hope I can rebuild the 7448-1 Holley 2300 so that it runs as good as the mustang
Oh awesome! Thank you! Good luck on your rebuild.
Alf, your videos have helped me many times over as I restore my 66,AT C4, in line 6 2 door coupe. I really appreciate how you take the time to cover all the anticipated questions that arise and make it easy to follow along. I just finished watching your video on changing the shift shaft which again was very informing and something I will need to tackle next spring. Could you please offer some suggestions as to why when I move the floor shifter to a forward gear it shifts pretty smooth like it should but when I shift into reverse I get more of a "clunk" and a stronger jolt? Thanks again and please keep those great video's coming!
Thank you very much! I'm not the most experienced when it comes to the internal workings of the trans. However, I would probably advise to check fluid level and possibly the adjustment of the reverse band. I only use motorcraft type-F fluid.
I'm so glad my 351w has a 2150 carb. Easier to rebuild and to adjust. It's not that Holley's are bad, it's just that motorcrafts are easy to work on and in my opinion more reliable. Set it and forget it.
Oh ya I definitely love my 2100, 2150, 4100s for sure!
Thanks Alf - this helps!
You're welcome!
Looking good ALF keep the videos coming
Thank you sir!
What a fantastic vid. Are you ever doing one on a 2100 rebuild? 👍🏼 Also a question for my ‘68-289: if my heat pipe/stove-pipe to my choke (Autolite 2100) is gone due to header install, can I just plug the port on the choke and adjust? (Car is never winter/cold-weather driven). There is still a bracket that runs a heater hose up against the choke housing. 🇨🇦
Hey Barry, thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. So yes I will do a 2100 rebuild eventually. Its just a matter of time before I get one in the shop to do and it will get filmed. So on your choke, I would recommend an electric choke conversion. Even though its never driven in the winter, it does help the engine run better on start ups. Mike's Carburetor Parts sells them and I will put a link here. There are a couple different options for the 2100 carb so make sure you look at them both and get the right one if you go that route. www.carburetor-parts.com/Electric-Choke-Conversion-Kit--CU1110_p_3878.html
I’m partial to EFI these days but you cannot beat a Holley carb.
Right! I love the Holley and Autolite carbs!
just an fyi, that is a holley 7508 carb. pretty rare economaster model made for fuel economy. one thing that will trip you up on this carb is the mix screws work in reverse. I have one of these on my 66 galaxie
Well how else do you identify it? The idle mixture screws are right hand thread on this one.
Great Videos! I love all of them! Thank you for sharing your experience. I just rebuilt my 2100 and bought a vacuum gauge to set it up correctly. I seem to have a problem I’m hoping you can help me figure out what to do next. The engine vacuum is jumping constantly between 17 and 20 (shaking back and forth)and the engine won’t run very smooth. I’m getting conflicting info online and was hoping you could direct me to a correct good source. It’s a 69 302. Thanks
Im being told worn valve guides or a head gasket?
Dave, typically when I see my vacuum gauge bouncing, it tells me that one of my cylinders is misfiring. What happens is when its that cylinder's turn to fire and contribute to the team, it doesn't and just kind of goes along for the ride. The engine speed will actually slow down when its that cylinder's turn to fire and thus you get this vacuum drop which is displayed on the gauge. Even if the compression is good and its able to pull a vacuum, its not enough because its actually slowing down the engine. I would probably be going into misfire diagnostics mode on something like this. Which would include removing the spark plugs and wires for inspection. If nothing definite is found there, I would be going to compression checks. Its hard to go off of advise of people telling you worst case scenario with head gaskets. At the end of the day, you need to do more research and you need to do more testing to gather evidence to support what is happening. What you know, the engine is not running smooth and you have a misfire. Why you have a misfire is what you need to figure out. I hope that helps, let me know what you find.
Thanks for the time and explanation Alf. I will follow your advice and get back to you about what I find. I can’t work on the car for the next few days but when I do I will let you know how it goes. Thanks
Sounds good ya I'm interested in what you figure out. Hopefully just something simple.
@@AlfsMustangGarage well, I spent some time today working on the car. I first checked firing order, then sprayed card cleaner around intake and carb with no uptick in engine. I pulled each wire off one at a time from distributor while engine running with noticeable issues with all cylinders but #2… well I then decided to compression test each cylinder. They are all pretty low at 90 to about 105 psi (drum roll……) except for #2. It read 75 first time then 45 second time and I did a wet test and it actually dropped to about 32.(good grief) Could this mean I have a sticking valve? Oh and all the plugs looked ok but #2 was wet
I ran the motor at various rpms for a while hoping it would help. Instead of helping now I’ve got a ticking sound coming from that valve cover. Anyway, what are my options next? Thanks for your help
On the top of the metering block under the rim of the plate of the airhorn are 2 vents , i have one that seems plugged off and the other is open and enabling outside air into the booster and it is dripping gas into the barrel off the booster , what is the purpose of those 2 passages and should they have a ball bearing check valve or plug in them. Thanks for the helpful video.
👍
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what cfm? 350 or 500? bone stock 289?
This is a bone stock 289. I'm not sure on the CFM on this one. Probably around 350ish.
@@AlfsMustangGarage yeah i bought a 350 and slapped it on my stang and it fixed all the issues i was dealing with on the autolite 2100
No spring under the float?
Re-watch starting at the 20:35 mark
@@AlfsMustangGarage copy that. Cheers.