Holley 2210/2300 carb problems STALLING OFF IDLE. problem solved.
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- Опубліковано 5 січ 2019
- I find a fix for a Holley 2210 carb that stalls off idle, hard to tune, and poor performance. The problem is the power valve actuator piston, there is a vacuum leak around the piston and bushing in the top of the carb, THE TWO BRASS JETS ON TOP OF THE CARB NEED TO BE DRILLED OUT TO 0.041 THOUSANDS. To solve the problem you need to block off the farthest hole on the passenger side of the carb. Please let me know if this fixed your Holley 2210 carb. And always thanks for watching, commenting, and subscribing.
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I finally removed the power valve piston and plugged that port on my 2210c. Problem solved. Thanks for the video.
Awesome quality, we need more!
Well I tried this mod but what you fail to mention is that when you do this mod you need to take that check valve needle out as well. I have done this mod to my Holly 2210 on my 1970 Dodge Monaco with a 383 Magnum. I did your mod and I also removed the power check valve needle and the modification worked perfectly. Choke still works, idols great, kicks off normal and throttle responses fantastic. I also drilled out the Jets to 43 mm with the idle air screws backed out a little more than one and three quarter and it runs perfect and it's really snappy. Thank you for this tip it was very helpful 🥰
By check valve needle you mean the check weight that’s near the fuel inlet? Without that wouldn’t the bowl flood? I took mine out and gas came dripping out the top. Also, should I take the power valve out since it’s not really doing anything? Or leave it in?
Just did this. The off idle stumble is gone. Thanks.
Looks like you don't have a check weight for your accelerator pump circuit. Mike's Carburetor Parts has a really good breakdown of this particular carburetor.
Agreed. I noticed the missing check weight as well. Rebuilding the carb yourself provides a more thorough understanding of how all the components work.. Seems like the people at the company who re manufactured the carb were pretty incompetent.
Oh also I'm pulling 18 on vacuum... Don't forget the gesture idle air screws at temperature watching your vacuum gauge for the maximum amount of vacumm...then your golden. Don't forget to change your fuel filter when doing this and the old cars run best on 91 or higher octane as there's no ethanol in 91 or higher octane gasolines. The higher the octane the cooler it burns which allows you to run it slightly leaner while still getting a full burn and keeping the cylinder temperatures lower especially on cast iron heads and block your engine will thank you for it not to mention the cleaners will keep everything carbon free as much as possible. Do not run regular in anything not even air Cold two-cycle run 91 or higher octane it will last longer in air cool two cycles and you'll go farther on a tank by being able to lean out the mixture a bit because you're actually burning all of the fuel instead of regular which you do not. It is a scientific fact. The higher the octane the more even the burn which these non-computer controlled carbureted cars benefit from. You have a cast iron motor with aluminum heads or a cast iron motor with cast iron heads and it's not computer control and before 2010 production don't run the regular ethanol will destroy the fuel system destroy your mechanical fuel pump diaphragm it also absorbs moisture and puts water in the bottom of your gas tank. Thank you corn gas for making a shit fuel. If you want to run it on e85 set up your fuel system to handle it but remember this.... Ethanol Burns 30% faster than gasoline if you run regular with e10 in it your fuel consumption will be 30% overall for a full tank as you will have to tune the car fatter to run properly while damaging your standard old lead or old school unleaded gasoline not to mention the gas is still oxygenated. And you wonder why NASCAR uses race fuel at high RPM because of the power output and heat those engines create. The higher the octane the cooler it burns for the lower flash rate so whatever your spring in even a fuel injected motor will burn more evenly and keep it clean without additives. Although it won't hurt to drop in a cap full or two of marvel Mr oil into an old carbureted car's fuel system per tank.
You posted just in time
Did this work for you as well, @Cutter Leipply?
I did this, and took my check weight needle out and now my carb is spewing gas out of the top. Is there a workaround, or should I put the needle back in?
Well my blue pump thing is upside down apparently.... Mine just stalls in gear?
Where is your check bleed for the main discharge?
I’m experiencing this exact problem, but my carburetor is a 2210c. From the looks of it, the power valve actuator looks a bit different. The spring is on the outside of the actuator on mine. I’m curious if this solution would work in my case. I’m also curious why they must have worked fine from the factory with the power valve functional, yet the solution is to block it off and remove it? Any thoughts?
Well the reason I blocked mine off is because it's a vacuum leak.
Looked close for holes below power valve.didnt see them till I took a small safety pin lengthened it and bent a 90° at the tip. Poked out oxidation hiding holes at the bottom of the threads. Hard to see but there.
Lowest point of fuel bowl where all the crap hangs out. Two teeny holes. Maybe why holes are just below threads at the highest point of the pit.
Going to try this when I get home. Mine dies every time I try to get on it
I hope this helps 😊.
@@michaelwall784 did it work for you as well?
@@jeffreybutt1302 lol, yes it's my video.
@@michaelwall784 Hahaha... Not too sure how this reply got attached to you, was meant for @Cutter but amazing discovery man. I've been racking my brain about this the entire weekend trying to get mine to accelerate like this. But by golly, success. Now I'm gonna tackle my "tic" with the lifters.
@@jeffreybutt1302 when you did this, did you remove the check weight needle? Have you had any flooding problems?
When the engine is warm is the choke plate wide open? Mine is and will not restart without holding it shut.
You need to adjust the idle mixture screws on the front of the carb. Sounds like it's lean, so turn them counter clockwise a 1/4 turn till it runs right.
The hole you're talking about is the one just to the right of the beveled hole?
Yes
Do you still have the check needle in there for the accelerator pump?
No, the thing in between the main jets it the only thing I removed.
@@michaelwall784 that's what I meant, lol.
Will this work on the 2245
I could not say it does or doesn't.
your starter sounds suspect as well..
Lol it's a two year old starter from O'REILLY'S