Also when pushing back the brake piston loosen the bleeder valve on the back side of the caliper. It will go back 100x easier. You should then bleed the air out of the lines but after 7 years chances are that fluid needs to be bled anyway. If you don't know how youtube "how to bleed brakes" there will be a video somewhere... I assume Chris Fix has done one.
Coolesta, except he said none of those things... the 'crack' he was talking about was the wear indicator groove down the middle of the pad. The thing that ruined his disc was not a wear indicator, nor is it there to make a noise as he said, it's merely the spring clip that locates the pad.
First of all, wear indicator groove does not exist, what you're talking about is the the slot that is used to reduce brake fade (specifically gas or water fade). Yes, wear indicator exist and makes a noise whenever you apply the brakes. The only clips I am aware of are the clips that fit the brake pad into the caliper, if you somehow manage to have the clips come into contact with the disk I like to kindly ask you to quit your profession as a technician.
For this particular design, the clip is a wear indicator. On some vehicles it's also a retaining spring to prevent brake chucking. There are hundreds of different designs. The groove appears to serve many purposes but we can all google it rather than argue. But in reference to my original comment, I do love ElectroBOOM so all is forgiven for such entertainment. I think we all know not to take this as an instructional video. Plus, even with my experience, I bet he could school me (and many other) on diagnosing some tricky electrical gremlins after adjusting for his automotive learning curve.
The reason the squealers didn't work and scratched your rotor disk... you have them in backwards! As it is contacting the rotor, the metal tab is bending into the pad causing grinding, if you flip the pads / squealers to the correct orientation (the bottom) the tabs will bend away from the pad when they contact the rotor and cause a vibration (a.k.a. the "squeal" noise) Always position stealers to bend away from the pads when the wheel / rotor is rotating in the forward direction.
In reality their purpose is not to sqeal when the brake pad gets worn, but to eliminate clacking noise when braking in reverse. The correct position for the metal clips is up.
Nothing would happen if the car is on anyways, unless you aren't in gear, park, or no wheel chalks. Cuz then your car with roll alway, even if the car isn't on
Some tips to follow instead of listening to electroboom lol: 1. Please break/tighten your lugs on the ground, THEN jack up the vehicle 2. NEVER press the brake while the caliper is off, it will push the piston out 3. When pushing the pistons back, pop the hood and open your brake fluid reservoir. It’s usually in the top right 4. The squealers will not ruin your rotors, and always clean them with proper brake clean, and don’t rub them with dirty hands like he’d doing in the video (Quick tip). Little tip about rotors, if you see cracking on the rotors it’s really dangerous and they need to be replaced. Also look out for marks/streaks (like on his in the video) on the rotors and get them shaved by a shop 5. This is optional, but it’s best to flush brake line system by bleeding the brakes. Again, you don’t need to, but if your brake hose looks dry rotted or has a big bubble in it, get it looked at And yeah, that about it
Just as an fyi: It's easier to "break the bolts" loose when your car's weight is on its tires (there is much less play in the suspension). *Then* you jack it up to actually remove the bolts (the converse is true for tightening them).
That's kind of his shtick. He messes up so we don't have to. He shows what happens when you make common mistakes that people make. This isn't a "how to change your brakes" instructional video. It's a silly UA-cam video mostly aimed at adolescents. It's just like his electronics videos. He doesn't just say "don't do [thing]". He blows something up (safely) to demonstrate what happens if you "do [thing]".
Man i Just loved this, because i learned why my car sounded like that while stoping and i realized that my mechanic was scammimg me. I love your videos because they're fun and educational
As an auto tech I enjoyed this video. Good work bro. Just keep an eye on that rotor. And opening bleeder valve and the 15 dollar brake depressor tool makes the caliper piston so easy. Some will warn not to open bleeder valve but its no big deal if you apply constant pressure to the piston and its easy enough to bleed out the air by having someone push brakes to floor with valve closed, hold pedal at floor, open valve, close valve, release and re-apply brake pedal and repeat, good tip, use clear hose from bleeder valve into a container with brake fluid and it will keep air from being pulled back into brakes. And watch out if you do the rear if those are disk, piston may need to turn to be pushed back in to caliper. Well you triggered my tech side lol. Thanks for the great video.
When squeezing in the piston open up the brake fluid reservoir and it will allow that pressure to escape easier, many brake master cylinders don’t like to get that pressure forced back into it without any release
Mr. BOOM, It is far easier to squeeze the puck of the caliper back in using a c-clamp and utilizing one of the spent brake pads, putting it over the puck, to ensure the caliper puck is pushed back into the caliper evenly. We still love you... Keep the videos coming!!
6:23 Get a piece of wood that will fit over the break piston cup edges and place it there. While holding the wood in place, use the C-clamp to push the wood into the break piston, this forces all sides of the piston cup to retract evenly and with ease. I find that the screw C-clamp works the best at this task.
I lost it when he used that type of clamp on the piston. That's got to be so exhausting for the fingers. Plus using a C style clamp lets you push piston in from the center, not just make it easier to do.
I changed my break pads after watching some youtube video that didn't make any mention of the calipers. I dug around my garage until I found a single C clamp I had that was too small for the job, but I managed to finagle it on an angle and use a piece of wood to keep it from gouging anything. Took me 20 minutes to turn it by hand while using my other hand to make sure it didn't slip off so I could get it in there far enough. UA-cam how to videos are great. The only problem is that they don't tell you what to do when things always go wrong. You better be ready to improvise.
Mehdi…here’s a few pro tips for your next brake job. 1) Buy yourself a pair of safety stands (aka jack stands) they support the weight of the end of the vehicle that you raised with your floor jack. Try raising your vehicle one corner at a time and end up with with either the front or rear of the vehicle, depending on if you’re working on the front or rear brakes. It really speeds up the process. 2) I’m assuming you have disc brakes on both the front and rear axles. This tip is only helpful with disc brakes. When it’s necessary to compress the the caliper piston flush with the cylinder face, e.g., when reassembling the disc brake assembly with new brake pads, use a C-clamp that has enough throw in the screw to let the caliper cylinder housing and piston fit between the flat of the clamp’s jaw and screw pad and still have 3 or 4 centimeters of space between the screw pad and the piston side of the caliper cylinder body. Then take the worn out inboard brake pad and place the flat back side of the pad against the protruding cylinder. With the pad in place, align the clamp with the screw pad centered on where the middle of the piston is but cannot be easily seen owing to the old pad blocking the hole. Start closing the c-clamp with one turn at a time of the screw and stop when the screw pad contacts the old break pad. Adjust grip on C-clamp and continue to turn the clamp screw until the old brake pad bottoms out. Now reassemble they rest of the brake assembly. I have a 200 mm C-clamp that I use for this. 3) Build yourself an electric torque gun or buy one. Your knuckles will thank you. Don’t go on the cheap and make sure that the power is adequate for tightening or loosening the lug nuts on your vehicle. 4) Buy yourself a small tub of waterless hand cleaner and a bag of shop towels.
What I've learned from changing brake pads. 1. Crowbar also works as a brake piston pressurizer 2. Always check ALL the rubber gaskets in the brake clamp area, lest some dirt ends up on the rods that lead the brake clamp and rust inside. 3. Screw action piston pressurizers work the best 4. Don't rush it 5. If you can't seem to be able to do it, stop what you're doing, put everything back together and take the car to the service. It's better than taking your car out of commission for three weeks while the brake clamp bracket gets shipped.
Just a tip when you want to push the piston back in use a 8m and crack the bleed valve on the calliper then push the piston slowly. Pushing it in with out cracking the bleed can push the rubbers out in the master cylinder or worse seize the piston. Use a bleed bottle so you dont make a mess and you can bleed out old fluid the same way do it with the car off :)
5:50 actually if you just take the cap off the brake fluid under the hood, it will release the pressure on the piston so you can compress it without bleeding the brakes
GETLOWDUDE This isn't actually true, there is always some mechanism built into the master cylinder to allow the fluid level to drop as the pads wear (either a simple breather or a flexible rubber diaphragm to separate the fluid from air), and the same feature will allow the fluid level to rise when the caliper piston is pushed back in. The only time this is a problem is if the reservoir has been topped up with worn pads, in which case it will overflow when the pistons are pushed back in.
GETLOWDUDE That's exactly what I said. Provided the master master cylinder reservoir has not been topped up between pad changes, then pushing the caliper pistons in won't cause an overflow. If someone has topped it up, then you will need to remove some fluid from the reservoir to prevent it overflowing. The fact remains that if air can get into the reservoir to allow the fluid level to drop as the pads wear, then it can also get out when you push the pistons back in.
mikerjuk You both are half correct. Unless you have a performance,or some kind of "fancy" car, which obviously this is not, the cap has a graduated, collapsing rubber gasket inside of the reservoir lid. As the fluid level slowly drops from pad wear,it makes a suction that pulls the gasket down to the top level of the fluid. You will see a pin hole on the master cylinder cover to allow air into the top end of the cap,above the gasket.
I just don't know what to take serious in these videos but I have to state the brake pad crack is to cut down on the resonance when the pad is thicker and allow release of some of the dust / gasses the pad makes against the rotor under pressure. The squealer tab is more the lower limit for pad thickness. Also I feel a great gift for Mehdi would be an impact wrench, though the content would suffer.
As a licensed tech there are a few things you should have done here. Should have removed the caliper slide pins, cleaned and lubricated them as well as removed the pad mount and cleaned and lubed the pad contacts. Those were cheap pads and didn't come with new stainless clips. On another note love your electrical videos and style!
Thanx for the recognision :) on a Volvo, this took me half a day... after that i read the manual and came to the conclusion the piston had to be screwed back in the caliper instead of pressing...
They do say third times the charm, the first two videos about doing stuff with his car when he loosened the knots the tire was still on the ground but this is the third video so now he finally remembered to do that yay!
@Eddie Hitler Strained the line, something every mechanic has done. "almost shot the piston out"?? NO where near it, It might have moved an 1/8 of an inch, if it did come out it would just fall out and make a mess, VERY low volume of fluid being pumped. I have seen "professionals" no MUCH worse.
@Eddie Hitler No it wouldnt, even with a LOT of back pressure there is not enough fluid volume from the master cylinder to fully eject the piston, The clamp simply bends a little then retracts every time the brake pedal is pressed. while oil compresses very little, it also doesnt expand much either. Are you sure the person working on the caliper wasnt using an air hose to blow the piston out? Like this ua-cam.com/video/I4FzXGrSrmU/v-deo.html Oil cannot compress/expand like the air did and allow the piston to move like that. Simple physics.
The two useful things I learned from my father... 1) Loosen the nuts before jacking the car up (which has been mentioned) 2) ALWAYS tighten them with the tool that'll be in the car. On cars and other small vehicles (SUVs) they do not need to be torqued to an extreme. Inertia from braking, minimal sidewardsways forces, and a little bit of water ingress/grit, and the fact that there are multiple (usually five) large nuts will keep the wheels on your car.
No matter how much material is left on the pad, always change all of them at the same time. Also brake grease, use it. Also if the pad has gone metal to metal, doesn’t matter how little, change the disc aswell. Both sides no matter how think the disc is. You can turn the car on, just don’t press the brake pedal or the piston will shoot out if you do it enough. If it won’t go back in, possibly rusted piston.
Now that I think of it, I think he already knew that he should've opened it but because he always injures himself to prove a point, I think that's exactly what he did here again.
I find an 8" screwdriver applying constant pressure between the old pads will push the cylinder back with no stress or clamps. Just keeping pressure on typically moves them, as it won't go in that quickly with any tool (ohh yeah this is the ElectroBoom channel)
here are two tips: 1) When you leverage down the tire nuts with your foot you should leverage up on the other side with your hand to cancel out the downwards shear stress you're putting on your cross. that way you reduce the risk of breaking it. 2) To reset the caliper piston it's much easier to use a power-screw C-clamp instead of that squeeze-lever one you're using.
There’s special clamps out there that fit a disc over the brake piston ring and use a screwing mechanism to push the pistons out of the way. Might be worth looking into for the next time.
next time open the brake reservoir cap and it should compress easier (the brake piston which you had the clamps on....also you could pop the piston out by pressing on it when its opened so just make sure people know) lol im sure you did all that on purpose though.
C clamps work great for resetting a caliper. If you have no clamp at all, loosen the bleeder valve while squeezing the piston, don't let go, and tighten valve.
one of these en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tongue-and-groove_pliers about twice the normal/standard size. although a normal size would still give you more force than what you where using and usually works too depending on the shape of the break parts.
You need a C clamp for pushing the brake piston in. Get yourself a manual for your car, do it right. Don't play around with brakes. (unless this is parody)
More electroboom car videos please! We haven't seen you changing a simple car battery where you tell us about frying the ECU if polarity gets reversed.
Yeah, when you do brakes. You always do both rears or both fronts. Along with you should also do brake rotors too since it can cause the brand new pads to grove and unevenly wear. I get he’s not a car guy but it’s nice to know we can teach him stuff that he may not know. Especially when the rotor is looks like that both rotors and pads need to be replaced. In our shop we call this “Pad-slapping” where they just put new pads on worn rotors. Most shops just replace the rotors since it’s fairly cheap and preventative maintenance compared to shaving them down.
Just a tip for pushing the caliper pistons back, open the bleeder value, it’ll let out some brake fluid but it will make it much easier, since you’re not fight the pressure.
1 get a real clamp 2 use the old pad to center your clamp 3 loosen lug nuts with car on the ground 4 tighten lugs same way 5 never press the brake with the caliper off 6 spray is to get rid of your hands oils, enjoy your sticky brakes 7 you forgot the brake lube 8. That set of pads is gonna die fast, shoulda machined that rotor. This is a list of issues, in no particular order.
LOL 3:50 stepping on a tire iron, potentially sending it flying into the classic car beside you. Now I know why they don't allow car work in my condo (but during the winter I do it anyways because F the man). For the last part, to compress the piston back into the caliper, just use a 14-17mm short socket into the piston, then use a C clamp to push it back in. Don't forget to grease the slider pins.
Please break the nuts with the car on the ground next time?
And also tighten them with the wheel on the ground
Ok? Ok bye now
Was thinking the Exact same. Doing that while it's still on the ground makes it 100 times easier
This lol. Keep your tires from spinning with the wrench.
And use your bodyweight by standing on the wrench with one leg.
Also when pushing back the brake piston loosen the bleeder valve on the back side of the caliper. It will go back 100x easier. You should then bleed the air out of the lines but after 7 years chances are that fluid needs to be bled anyway. If you don't know how youtube "how to bleed brakes" there will be a video somewhere... I assume Chris Fix has done one.
Just take the brake master cylinder cap off when pushing the piston back in.
But then I got lazy for the next 3 years... 0:31 lol, story of my life. I remember seeing that video when it first came out! Time flys.
XD Duuuuude, I keep saying tomorrow over and over again....should've just said in a year and a half
I mean it didnt take as much time as the tesla model 3 towing hook installation by the way how is that doing.
Come on Jerry
Boy you look like a default character in some rbg game
*flies* but ok...
"I thought I would do it the next day, but then I got lazy for _three more years_."
Pure ElectroBoom gold.
This sounds like me, with cleaning up my desk for example. And i am not kidding ;-)
Don’t start the car!
Proceeds to start the car
That’s mehdi alright
“Then I got lazy for 3 more years”
Can this man be more relatable
As a mechanic, i was amused and yet horrified by this.
My blood was boiling when he said that cracks on the break pads are okay and blaming the wear indicators for ruining his disk.
Coolesta, except he said none of those things... the 'crack' he was talking about was the wear indicator groove down the middle of the pad.
The thing that ruined his disc was not a wear indicator, nor is it there to make a noise as he said, it's merely the spring clip that locates the pad.
First of all, wear indicator groove does not exist, what you're talking about is the the slot that is used to reduce brake fade (specifically gas or water fade). Yes, wear indicator exist and makes a noise whenever you apply the brakes. The only clips I am aware of are the clips that fit the brake pad into the caliper, if you somehow manage to have the clips come into contact with the disk I like to kindly ask you to quit your profession as a technician.
For this particular design, the clip is a wear indicator. On some vehicles it's also a retaining spring to prevent brake chucking. There are hundreds of different designs. The groove appears to serve many purposes but we can all google it rather than argue.
But in reference to my original comment, I do love ElectroBOOM so all is forgiven for such entertainment. I think we all know not to take this as an instructional video. Plus, even with my experience, I bet he could school me (and many other) on diagnosing some tricky electrical gremlins after adjusting for his automotive learning curve.
VegetableMigraine how do i change blinker fluid?
The reason the squealers didn't work and scratched your rotor disk... you have them in backwards! As it is contacting the rotor, the metal tab is bending into the pad causing grinding, if you flip the pads / squealers to the correct orientation (the bottom) the tabs will bend away from the pad when they contact the rotor and cause a vibration (a.k.a. the "squeal" noise) Always position stealers to bend away from the pads when the wheel / rotor is rotating in the forward direction.
This needs more upvotes
Or, just not wait 3 years between changing your left front and right front brake pads...
In reality their purpose is not to sqeal when the brake pad gets worn, but to eliminate clacking noise when braking in reverse. The correct position for the metal clips is up.
Thanks for tip. Been changing my brakes for 20+ years and never realized.
Finally someone shares my point
“Never turn the car on”
10 seconds later: “I’m gonna turn the car on”
Nothing would happen if the car is on anyways, unless you aren't in gear, park, or no wheel chalks. Cuz then your car with roll alway, even if the car isn't on
I love the way he says “junk” and “coot”
“I’ve gaht juank in mhy truahnk!”
Don't forget he also said "use my manly strength to *push it in* "
by the way as an iranian i'd say he has the purest persian accent on the internet
Some tips to follow instead of listening to electroboom lol:
1. Please break/tighten your lugs on the ground, THEN jack up the vehicle
2. NEVER press the brake while the caliper is off, it will push the piston out
3. When pushing the pistons back, pop the hood and open your brake fluid reservoir. It’s usually in the top right
4. The squealers will not ruin your rotors, and always clean them with proper brake clean, and don’t rub them with dirty hands like he’d doing in the video
(Quick tip). Little tip about rotors, if you see cracking on the rotors it’s really dangerous and they need to be replaced. Also look out for marks/streaks (like on his in the video) on the rotors and get them shaved by a shop
5. This is optional, but it’s best to flush brake line system by bleeding the brakes. Again, you don’t need to, but if your brake hose looks dry rotted or has a big bubble in it, get it looked at
And yeah, that about it
Only Mehdi does repairs with his bare hands... Bear hands...
*I feel so BEARLY today!*
Motherfrothers!
I barely understood that reference.... baeaeae
"buaaah"
*El TMG* Check the "Making a FULL BRIDGE RECTIFIER" video, he says it there.
ua-cam.com/video/sI5Ftm1-jik/v-deo.htmlm7s
Why u no make new video
6:50 (about 20 seconds)
What a person entering the underground parking might think when hearing those sounds ^^
@@biackshibe nope but
Just as an fyi: It's easier to "break the bolts" loose when your car's weight is on its tires (there is much less play in the suspension). *Then* you jack it up to actually remove the bolts (the converse is true for tightening them).
First of, great info, and why does youtube show me that your comment is one month old??? :S
HoodieDude420 it's because he is a patron
It's in the video description, patrons on patreon.com get early access to the videos, so the comments are really that old
Also you can use a piece of pvc pipe as an "extension/breaker" bar to make the removal a LOT easier.
As a mechanic, I would advise everyone watching this video to use this as an example of what not to do. 🤣
Wow, the rotor has a groove in it. He was touching the rotor! Hahahaha
I could not agree more....
Don't worry i go to a garage for my tires and my brakes🤣
I agree with u
That's kind of his shtick. He messes up so we don't have to. He shows what happens when you make common mistakes that people make.
This isn't a "how to change your brakes" instructional video. It's a silly UA-cam video mostly aimed at adolescents. It's just like his electronics videos. He doesn't just say "don't do [thing]". He blows something up (safely) to demonstrate what happens if you "do [thing]".
Man i Just loved this, because i learned why my car sounded like that while stoping and i realized that my mechanic was scammimg me. I love your videos because they're fun and educational
As an auto tech I enjoyed this video. Good work bro. Just keep an eye on that rotor. And opening bleeder valve and the 15 dollar brake depressor tool makes the caliper piston so easy. Some will warn not to open bleeder valve but its no big deal if you apply constant pressure to the piston and its easy enough to bleed out the air by having someone push brakes to floor with valve closed, hold pedal at floor, open valve, close valve, release and re-apply brake pedal and repeat, good tip, use clear hose from bleeder valve into a container with brake fluid and it will keep air from being pulled back into brakes. And watch out if you do the rear if those are disk, piston may need to turn to be pushed back in to caliper. Well you triggered my tech side lol.
Thanks for the great video.
6:11, listen to this with your eyes closed
BMXSAMI omg hahahaha XD
god damn it lol
Hahaha! Yes!
Oh. My. God. Best part of the video now :'D
BMXSAMI Fist one of these that is actually funny.
When squeezing in the piston open up the brake fluid reservoir and it will allow that pressure to escape easier, many brake master cylinders don’t like to get that pressure forced back into it without any release
Why did I know that he was on the wrong side? Why can my brain remember this useless information, but not my phone number?
i know right me to.
Because you probably saw the thumbnail of his old video at 0:18
OCD
@@kabhes9040 you to what?
You mean too?
@@Xnoob545 I mean i did too remember that he was on the wrong side.
2:10
"i was expecting after three more years of pounding that crack would be completely gone"
amazing
Always use the old pad between the clamp and the caliper to protect it.
Title: changing the last pad
Mehdi: I only changed one side and didn't replace the other
Also Mehdi: Raises the same side he has changed 3 years ago
Lol
Can u sub to me
@@Wishingweezy nah
@@jshi3 ok josh ❤️
@@Wishingweezy why do people like you ask for subs like that???
@@_playa_ because I don't have enough skill to make watchable vid😭😭 sorry
i honestly luv these vlogs
When you started with the first tire, I was screaming "NOO! Watch out ! That's the same one you did last time !" Saw it coming :))
"Don't sniff the powder too much"
Heh
Good
Mr. BOOM,
It is far easier to squeeze the puck of the caliper back in using a c-clamp and utilizing one of the spent brake pads, putting it over the puck, to ensure the caliper puck is pushed back into the caliper evenly. We still love you... Keep the videos coming!!
6:23 Get a piece of wood that will fit over the break piston cup edges and place it there. While holding the wood in place, use the C-clamp to push the wood into the break piston, this forces all sides of the piston cup to retract evenly and with ease.
I find that the screw C-clamp works the best at this task.
Hi
seeing (and knowing) the struggle makes you appreciate your cordless impact gun a lot more....
6:56 BEST LAUGH EVA!
yOs
Hey man, i love your channel! Everytime you're able to put a smile into my face. Thnx for that! Take care of you!
I lost it when he used that type of clamp on the piston.
That's got to be so exhausting for the fingers.
Plus using a C style clamp lets you push piston in from the center, not just make it easier to do.
Lmao i was waiting on that. He didnt get lazy for 3 yrs...he had to decoup.
"But then I got lazy for next three years"-you're my inspiration, sir.
At 7:00...I thought he is going to trap his finger 😂
I changed my break pads after watching some youtube video that didn't make any mention of the calipers. I dug around my garage until I found a single C clamp I had that was too small for the job, but I managed to finagle it on an angle and use a piece of wood to keep it from gouging anything. Took me 20 minutes to turn it by hand while using my other hand to make sure it didn't slip off so I could get it in there far enough.
UA-cam how to videos are great. The only problem is that they don't tell you what to do when things always go wrong. You better be ready to improvise.
you got pretty lucky
you should never press the brake with the piston off
That clamp saved his ass. You could see it flexing the fuck out of the clamp haha.
i was yelling at my laptop for him not to do that, but i forgot he had the clamp on.
I was expecting his clamp to explode when he did that.
would the piston shoot out if he stomped on his brake?
Delayed Reality yes, and a lot of brake fluid would spill out
Mehdi replacing the same brake pad he filmed a whole UA-cam video replacing 3 years ago is great
I was telling myself hopefully he doesn’t push the break right before you said so 😢😢
Mehdi…here’s a few pro tips for your next brake job.
1) Buy yourself a pair of safety stands (aka jack stands) they support the weight of the end of the vehicle that you raised with your floor jack. Try raising your vehicle one corner at a time and end up with with either the front or rear of the vehicle, depending on if you’re working on the front or rear brakes. It really speeds up the process.
2) I’m assuming you have disc brakes on both the front and rear axles. This tip is only helpful with disc brakes. When it’s necessary to compress the the caliper piston flush with the cylinder face, e.g., when reassembling the disc brake assembly with new brake pads, use a C-clamp that has enough throw in the screw to let the caliper cylinder housing and piston fit between the flat of the clamp’s jaw and screw pad and still have 3 or 4 centimeters of space between the screw pad and the piston side of the caliper cylinder body.
Then take the worn out inboard brake pad and place the flat back side of the pad against the protruding cylinder. With the pad in place, align the clamp with the screw pad centered on where the middle of the piston is but cannot be easily seen owing to the old pad blocking the hole. Start closing the c-clamp with one turn at a time of the screw and stop when the screw pad contacts the old break pad. Adjust grip on C-clamp and continue to turn the clamp screw until the old brake pad bottoms out. Now reassemble they rest of the brake assembly. I have a 200 mm C-clamp that I use for this.
3) Build yourself an electric torque gun or buy one. Your knuckles will thank you. Don’t go on the cheap and make sure that the power is adequate for tightening or loosening the lug nuts on your vehicle.
4) Buy yourself a small tub of waterless hand cleaner and a bag of shop towels.
I think you're supposed to remove the break fluid reservoir cap so that the piston can move a bit easier.
You sir are a breath of fresh air, Keep up the greatness!
Hey you only linked to patreon.com not your patreon
like this comment so mehdi sees it
Just incase ill leave his patreon here www.patreon.com/electroboom
You didn't do anything Extra Roid, no likes for you
cat Guess he fixed it meow.
patreon.com/ElectroBOOM
This vlog has better content than most of UA-cam
I recommend changing the brake discs if it's 22 mm. Otherwise if you use the same disc, it will wear down to the veins of the discs.
What I've learned from changing brake pads.
1. Crowbar also works as a brake piston pressurizer
2. Always check ALL the rubber gaskets in the brake clamp area, lest some dirt ends up on the rods that lead the brake clamp and rust inside.
3. Screw action piston pressurizers work the best
4. Don't rush it
5. If you can't seem to be able to do it, stop what you're doing, put everything back together and take the car to the service. It's better than taking your car out of commission for three weeks while the brake clamp bracket gets shipped.
Awesome video. Keep 'em coming, Mehdi. xD
😂😂😂 will happen when he will become mecanic
Just a tip when you want to push the piston back in use a 8m and crack the bleed valve on the calliper then push the piston slowly. Pushing it in with out cracking the bleed can push the rubbers out in the master cylinder or worse seize the piston. Use a bleed bottle so you dont make a mess and you can bleed out old fluid the same way do it with the car off :)
2:50 not useless. You should always inspect all your brake pads whenever you change any of them.
“I thought I would finish it the next day but got lazy for the next three years” is honestly such a mood
"Then I got lazy for three more years" Me too man, me too.
Watching you makes me feel like doing dumb inconsiderate series of actions isn't only my flaw in this world :D thank you for being with us!
Who needs gloves, someone invented soap for this.
Or did someone invent gloves so you don't have to use soap?
Because you don't want to get lead dust and carcinogenic oils on your semi-permeable skin.
I love me some contact dermatitis!
Lava soap bro. in the BAR format.
ignoring any reasons saying it can harm you. It doesn't come off easy. sometimes a few days for the deep down dirt in your skin.
I like how you come up with advice in real time
my heart has no room for you but the trunk of my car definitely does
Pinned comment thread is best thing I've seen on youtube in a while. freakin crowd sourced best-practices sheet for changing a tire.
5:50 actually if you just take the cap off the brake fluid under the hood, it will release the pressure on the piston so you can compress it without bleeding the brakes
GETLOWDUDE This isn't actually true, there is always some mechanism built into the master cylinder to allow the fluid level to drop as the pads wear (either a simple breather or a flexible rubber diaphragm to separate the fluid from air), and the same feature will allow the fluid level to rise when the caliper piston is pushed back in. The only time this is a problem is if the reservoir has been topped up with worn pads, in which case it will overflow when the pistons are pushed back in.
mikerjuk if the master cylinder isn’t overfilled, it won’t overflow from back pressure
GETLOWDUDE That's exactly what I said. Provided the master master cylinder reservoir has not been topped up between pad changes, then pushing the caliper pistons in won't cause an overflow. If someone has topped it up, then you will need to remove some fluid from the reservoir to prevent it overflowing.
The fact remains that if air can get into the reservoir to allow the fluid level to drop as the pads wear, then it can also get out when you push the pistons back in.
Why not just put a bar in the caliper before you take the old pads out. No need for clamps
mikerjuk
You both are half correct.
Unless you have a performance,or some kind of "fancy" car, which obviously this is not, the cap has a graduated, collapsing rubber gasket inside of the reservoir lid. As the fluid level slowly drops from pad wear,it makes a suction that pulls the gasket down to the top level of the fluid. You will see a pin hole on the master cylinder cover to allow air into the top end of the cap,above the gasket.
I really like watching these VLOGs. It's nice to see a more down to Earth Mehdi.
You should do automotive electronics, it's very interesting
I just don't know what to take serious in these videos but I have to state the brake pad crack is to cut down on the resonance when the pad is thicker and allow release of some of the dust / gasses the pad makes against the rotor under pressure. The squealer tab is more the lower limit for pad thickness. Also I feel a great gift for Mehdi would be an impact wrench, though the content would suffer.
"I have my new pads on" XD
As a licensed tech there are a few things you should have done here. Should have removed the caliper slide pins, cleaned and lubricated them as well as removed the pad mount and cleaned and lubed the pad contacts. Those were cheap pads and didn't come with new stainless clips. On another note love your electrical videos and style!
2:30, i thought : Shit, this is not my car
That would have been epic
Thanx for the recognision :) on a Volvo, this took me half a day... after that i read the manual and came to the conclusion the piston had to be screwed back in the caliper instead of pressing...
7:35 when I laughed at this, I soon noticed that he was looking at the camera and I thought it was because I was laughing XD
this channel is just so much fun.
"after 3 more years of pounding i thought the crack would be gon"e
I thought no one got that joke :D
Are you telling me you put this: ", in between the n and e in gone???
They do say third times the charm, the first two videos about doing stuff with his car when he loosened the knots the tire was still on the ground but this is the third video so now he finally remembered to do that yay!
0:50 “I have junk in my trunk… No”
Mesmerizing. ha ha I love it when he "realizes"it's the same wheel he worked on last time. Mehdi is a genius.
3:27 :his skin is his protection.
Corona: don't think so..
Jokes on you, he was wearing INVISIBLE gloves!
Loved it, but I love it even better when there is electricity in your videos!
This whole video I was pulling my hair and yelling STOP at the screen.
Why? He did better than most "professional" mechanics I've seen.
@Eddie Hitler Strained the line, something every mechanic has done. "almost shot the piston out"?? NO where near it, It might have moved an 1/8 of an inch, if it did come out it would just fall out and make a mess, VERY low volume of fluid being pumped. I have seen "professionals" no MUCH worse.
@Eddie Hitler yes, that could happen. But this one was Clearly moving freely.
@Eddie Hitler No it wouldnt, even with a LOT of back pressure there is not enough fluid volume from the master cylinder to fully eject the piston, The clamp simply bends a little then retracts every time the brake pedal is pressed. while oil compresses very little, it also doesnt expand much either. Are you sure the person working on the caliper wasnt using an air hose to blow the piston out? Like this ua-cam.com/video/I4FzXGrSrmU/v-deo.html Oil cannot compress/expand like the air did and allow the piston to move like that. Simple physics.
@Eddie Hitler I just explained why thats impossible, talking to a wall..... Im done.
The two useful things I learned from my father... 1) Loosen the nuts before jacking the car up (which has been mentioned) 2) ALWAYS tighten them with the tool that'll be in the car. On cars and other small vehicles (SUVs) they do not need to be torqued to an extreme.
Inertia from braking, minimal sidewardsways forces, and a little bit of water ingress/grit, and the fact that there are multiple (usually five) large nuts will keep the wheels on your car.
6:06 shiiii*beep*!
No matter how much material is left on the pad, always change all of them at the same time. Also brake grease, use it.
Also if the pad has gone metal to metal, doesn’t matter how little, change the disc aswell. Both sides no matter how think the disc is.
You can turn the car on, just don’t press the brake pedal or the piston will shoot out if you do it enough. If it won’t go back in, possibly rusted piston.
Now that I think of it, I think he already knew that he should've opened it but because he always injures himself to prove a point, I think that's exactly what he did here again.
I find an 8" screwdriver applying constant pressure between the old pads will push the cylinder back with no stress or clamps. Just keeping pressure on typically moves them, as it won't go in that quickly with any tool (ohh yeah this is the ElectroBoom channel)
this is totally how I do things
I can relate!
here are two tips:
1) When you leverage down the tire nuts with your foot you should leverage up on the other side with your hand to cancel out the downwards shear stress you're putting on your cross. that way you reduce the risk of breaking it.
2) To reset the caliper piston it's much easier to use a power-screw C-clamp instead of that squeeze-lever one you're using.
THAT WAS 3 YEARS AGO?
times flying.
There’s special clamps out there that fit a disc over the brake piston ring and use a screwing mechanism to push the pistons out of the way. Might be worth looking into for the next time.
why use gloves when you have pair of leather gloves as a stock gear
Great video, but the hardest thing I’ve had to watch in a long time
next time open the brake reservoir cap and it should compress easier (the brake piston which you had the clamps on....also you could pop the piston out by pressing on it when its opened so just make sure people know) lol im sure you did all that on purpose though.
Four years is approaching quickly
"Got lazy for 3 more years..."
Sounds a lot like me
C clamps work great for resetting a caliper. If you have no clamp at all, loosen the bleeder valve while squeezing the piston, don't let go, and tighten valve.
it is easier to push the breakpiston back in with a plier, you get no torque with that tool
Hah! Good luck pushing it back in which a plier!
That is what I used to do when I did car service, althoiugh it was a pretty big plier :)
Oh I see, I was thinking a regular plier, and that can't do much!
one of these en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tongue-and-groove_pliers about twice the normal/standard size. although a normal size would still give you more force than what you where using and usually works too depending on the shape of the break parts.
You need a C clamp for pushing the brake piston in. Get yourself a manual for your car, do it right. Don't play around with brakes. (unless this is parody)
My dad never showed me how to change the break pads, electrobroom is now my father.
2:27, 0:00 Intro
0:05 Remember?: ua-cam.com/video/A129SM9S54A/v-deo.html
0:42 I always have so much junk in my trunk
More electroboom car videos please! We haven't seen you changing a simple car battery where you tell us about frying the ECU if polarity gets reversed.
"I have junk in my trunk" some asian guy
Hes iranian!
@@happyalltheday2275 still thats asian
Yeah, when you do brakes. You always do both rears or both fronts. Along with you should also do brake rotors too since it can cause the brand new pads to grove and unevenly wear. I get he’s not a car guy but it’s nice to know we can teach him stuff that he may not know. Especially when the rotor is looks like that both rotors and pads need to be replaced. In our shop we call this “Pad-slapping” where they just put new pads on worn rotors. Most shops just replace the rotors since it’s fairly cheap and preventative maintenance compared to shaving them down.
0:01 the intro and Music 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Awesome Video! I was waiting for the lug nut to twist off when you stood on the tire iron. Freaking hilarious!
7:19 he knew about covid 19 3 years before
Just a tip for pushing the caliper pistons back, open the bleeder value, it’ll let out some brake fluid but it will make it much easier, since you’re not fight the pressure.
1 get a real clamp 2 use the old pad to center your clamp 3 loosen lug nuts with car on the ground 4 tighten lugs same way 5 never press the brake with the caliper off 6 spray is to get rid of your hands oils, enjoy your sticky brakes 7 you forgot the brake lube 8. That set of pads is gonna die fast, shoulda machined that rotor. This is a list of issues, in no particular order.
LOL 3:50 stepping on a tire iron, potentially sending it flying into the classic car beside you. Now I know why they don't allow car work in my condo (but during the winter I do it anyways because F the man).
For the last part, to compress the piston back into the caliper, just use a 14-17mm short socket into the piston, then use a C clamp to push it back in.
Don't forget to grease the slider pins.
ure eyebrows remind me of a naruto character....
might guy
That metal piece is a hero......he's responsible for pads to be locked to the caliper
Friendly tip, stick to electronics :D
Nope, he's a hazard, he even tries knitting, he'll come up missing both eyes and a nut.
leave automotive to automotive engineers