Man You are awesome! Im stoped at part 18:00 in my garage, i just cracked the old one an realized, that new one needs to go from inside...trap. Your idea was like a blessing for my situation, THANK YOU!
Cody, I watched your video on how to remove, clean and rebuild the clutch slave cylinder and then decided to rebuild mine on my 1997 GL 1500 SE. It took me about 5 hours and it looked just as bad if not worst than the one you demonstrated. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and expertise. Thanks to you I had no surprises and knew what to look for. Keep up the good work. Jim
I just traded a electric bicycle for a good running Honda 1983 V65 Manga. The clutch slave cylinder, I think was worse than the one in the video, although the clutch did work. Now the clutch slave cylinder is nice and clean rebuilt and fully functional. Cody thanks for the video most helpful !!!
i put new dot 4 in brake & clutch master cylinders & bleed every 2 years in hopes of preventing this on my 84 magna.it didnt work.i finally removed slave cyl to examine.holy hell, what a mess.mine was as bad as yours.cleaned everything up with 600 grit & brake cleaner, new seals, works perfect.so appearently the slave cyl had never been removed in 37 years.that taught me new brake fluid every 2 years is not enough to prevent problems.a physical cleaning is neccessary for long term reliability.lesson learned.now i know.thanks for showing others what i had to learn the hard way.
Thanks Cody. Very helpful video. I got a little aggressive cleaning the crud out and broke the gasket which is not included in the rebuild kit I ordered. Awaiting the replacement gasket then I'm hopeful no other issues. Looking forward to getting my 1985 Honda V65 Sabre back on the road. Thanks again and I would not have tried this repair without your video...
Cody, You’re amazing!!! Huge thanks for this video. I followed it exactly three days ago and my ‘86 Magna shifts the best it ever has since I’ve owned it! Mine was even nastier inside than the one shown here. Thanks again!!!!
Replaced parts on the master, and slave cylinder, clutch left me stranded at work one day, just had no pressure to function. Bike still wouldn't go into gear because the clutch wouldn't build pressure no matter how much I bled the line. Bled the line the way you did, my 94 Honda Shadow VT1100 was working in 5 minutes, slid into first gear like butter, clutch feels brand new. Thank you. 😂
Great video Cody. I have a 2000 Yamaha XJR1300SP with a hydraulic clutch system. The previous owner put very nice aftermarket master cylinder caps on the clutch and brake but left out the plastic caps. I've just found a parts retailer that has the OEM Yamaha cap set, so I'm ordering them to replace the pretty ones and return the master cylinders to standard. I also need to replace the slave cylinder as the piston is very corroded. The complete OEM unit is £120, so I think it's worth it. Better than renewing seals every year. I'm in the UK, by the way. Your videos are very informative and great to watch. Thank you, and keep up the good work 👍
You absolute legend! Thank you SO much for this video! I've never done a hydraulic clutch and I wasn't sure if I was gonna be able to do this myself, but thanks to your video I got it done! My 1986 VT1100C didn't want to shift smooth anymore, I heard air bubbles in the master cylinder, it started riding as soon as I let off the clutch, just like you mentioned! I took it apart, cleaned and polished it, got new gaskets for the little piston, bleeded the vacuum line and boy does she shift/clutch smooth now!
thanks for this, my clutch wasnt working and loosing clutch hydraulic fluid. I bought the parts and It took about an hour including the bleeding. About 1/2 the time was bleeding the cylinder. Remember to keep topping up the master cylinder or you will introduce air. learned the hard way tom
Kudos.....I have to join the ranks of the choir who opted to thank you, for both the completeness of content and thorough tips from start to finish. The video took all the mystery and fear out of this task and was easily transferred to my 1988 goldwing. Best regards.
Just did this on my ST1100A. As an added bonus I finally found out why the PO replaced the bleeder valve with a bolt. The threads were stripped. So I ended up bleeding it from the top by tapping the handle bars and jiggling the clutch lever. Took almost 1/2 an hour of me looking like an idiot, but it worked in the end! I ordered a replacement clutch slave housing immediately, for the next time I bleed that sucker. Oh and I'm really glad you addressed that engine casing seal! I was wondering if it didn't want replacing... Gonna leave it well enough alone now! Thanks man.
Ya Beauty!! (as we say in Scotland) Thank you so much for this video. I bought a Honda V65 Sabre unseen ( I know, I know) I already have a V65 Magna so I know they are pretty solid bikes. I was then going to ride it from England to Spain including through the centre of Paris. On the way I noticed the clutch was really spongy and I had to pump it about 5 times to change gear. In Paris I bled the system and it was pretty dirty and there was air too. I thought this would cure it but the symptoms reappeared making for a rather interesting road trip. When I got to Spain I found your video and followed the steps. Everything runs sweet now and I am just back from a run round some mountain twisties where the bike performed great. Thank you again for some great information. 10/10
Ha, my bike has been sitting too long and when I grabbed the clutch nothing. I cleaned the slave cyl some time back but didn't have a rebuild kit. Now I gotta get one and do it right. Thanks for the vid. You have a new sub as a bonus lol.
Awesome! So many useful tips. I am just about to do my slave cylinder for the first time, and your video gives me total confidence and it will save me so much time! You Rock my man. Thank you
My ‘86 Magna is stalling at lights, takes way too much force to shift, and the clutch went from having 1/2 - 3/4 free play until engagement to instant engagement. no force needed to squeeze lever . replacing master cylinder (stripped screws, drilled out🙄) but hydro clutch =closed system . then why was my fluid almost empty🤔 ordering slave cylinder with the master you’re the best🤙🏽
Update- rebuilt slave: problem fixed here I am with an 84 v65 Magna Master rebuild, Slave rebuild, new diaphragm, HEL perf. Braided Clutch line, pro Honda Dot 4. so happy❤️ Thanks Cody
Okay, I DID IT!! Thank you so much! The 86 Shadow vt1100 is a bit different. To get the cylinder out of the ... larger cylinder hole, I just used compressed air to push it out. For anyone else who does this, be careful and wear a respirator because it basically aerosolizes the brake fluid in it and sprays it EVERYWHERE, but it did get it out. I also had to sand it down with like 1000 grit on the sides because there was some nasty gunk stuck to the sides. it's still... not quite as springy as it is in this video, and after bleeding the clutch is still very stiff. But at least I replaced all the gaskets. (except for the one inside where the rod is, still don't know if there's even supposed to be one there, can't find any documentation on it)
Cody great tips today, I am working on a 84 CB650SC and the clutch has been sluggish and loosing fluid,know I know where the check thanks . Watch all the time keep it up your the best.
Finally a bit of good news, Cody. I called a local auto mech and ask if he'd come over and loosen the two kick stand bracket bolts. He said yes and no charge. (I didn't know the guy). He came over and in less that 30 seconds had the bolts loose. Quite a fine fellow. Well worth the $20 tip!
Bill McPherson NICE! Sometimes you just need a bigger hammer! Haha😆 Glad your able to make some more progress brother. Let me know how the rest turns out!
The clouds parted and the Angels sang!!! It is amazing how my happiness has returned with a firm clutch lever. The bleeding was problematic at first, but I used a gravity feed technique I saw for a Husqvarna and it seemed to get rid of a trapped bubble of air. I then used your hose clamp technique and it worked flawlessly! I thank you and my '84 Magna thanks you. I have had her for 32 years and didn't want to be angry with her. YOU ARE THE MAN b d
I was given an ‘ 85 Shadow vt700 and told that if I got it running I could have it. I took the slave cylinder off and at first I thought it was full of saw dust! That brake fluid corrosion is nasty stuff. Glad to see I was not the only one with the same type of corrosion.
Glad you mentioned that inner seals trouble replacing. Most folks who get that far would undoubtedly yank the puppy out. Guessing the clutch master was still in working order (not leaking) since you didn't address its rebuild as well. One of the ill's most folks blow gaskets over is these slave's acting a fool. After a bike has so many thousands of mile's and thirty + years sitting around, its little wonder any of them work at all. Have a great day brother.
Good content, I half ass did a flush and clean without taking the slave cylinder apart, now I know I only did a half ass job on my Vulcan 88, it's a 1996 and that fluid was a mess. Thanks for the info, now I know it's all got to come apart and be cleaned property....thanks bud!...love your chanel....
Sir, thank you for explaining to the layman the principals of the hydraulic clutch(piston activation same as the BRAKES LOL) Believe it or not a lot of people don`t realise the hydraulic clutch is based on the brake piston theory and bearly manage to oil the clutch cable on simple machines. I will of course strip down my bikes leaver actuation to see if all is smooth and in clean working order BUT my symptoms are as follows: I have a VTR 1000F FIRESTORM 28000 miles old and when I give it 2500-4000rpm on pull off the clutch is hesitant at best, I mean it slips then grabs then slips before lofting the front wheel skyward(I was a bike instructor and have passed every test thrown at us bikers since 1985) I am no amateur to a hydraulic clutch mechanism either as I have previously owned a VT250FD and a VF400FD but this VTRS clutch on this particular machine is indecisive at best and it has either warped plates/worn out clutch or is as some forums state a grabby clutch complex, I will of course strip down and see if it is a maintenance issue as it could well be? as I have only had the bike for a month or 2 but if you have any wisdom or have indeed ridden such a machine could you tell me how to fix this flaw as I love the machine but if it is a design fault it is a catastrophic error and one that I do not wish to ride such a truly potent machine without clutch control as this is second to throttle control and maketh or indeed breaketh THE machine:( Your reply or any knowledge however small about this bike would be very much appreciated and I do indeed recognise you are inundated with subscribers but from the bottom of my heart or any viewer could you help me with this problem ride. PS yes I am from Blighty OR dare I say it GREAT BRITAIN and don`t look so shocked as motorcyclists have no political agenda and if the world was ruled by us we would have a RACE at the weekend to see who is who and sell by Monday, enough said:) God bless you son and please keep up the video content as your videos are of true bike rider significance and appeal to the bike rider that not only wants to "ride but also wants to know what makes it tick"I was a mechanical engineer in the British Army for 10 yrs but I only achieved this posting through asking the questions in day to day situations of what does it do, how does it work! and most importantly what`s it operating parameters the rest is history as they say:)
Doing a great job there. Great videos and presented very well. Your carb videos were extremely helpful for us. We are getting a Yamaha FZ600 and an FJ1100 back on the road. Both from the mid 80s. Just goes to show that the information is soo helpful across all different makes. Maybe we can work on staying in frame at times?? Keep up the great work.
+SW Bedard Glad you found the videos helpful brother. Staying in frame is always a constant battle for since the POV style filming is my preference. Definitely a learning curve using a chest mount! Definitely a work in progress, thanks for your input. 🤙
I have a 1988 honda goldwing 1500 clutch bleeding slave cylinder needs cleaned and thank you for your video, I spent 3 hours no success, watch your video, now go to work on it.
Great vid, rebuilding my master and slave this weekend when parts come in. They look a little different but Im positive this is the case of my intermittent lever problems and inability to bleed the system. Clutch lever would just never come back out.
Cody, awesome video my man. I’m overhauling the whole clutch master and slave cylinder on my 84 magna VF700C. The slave cylinder was just like the one in your video. So I cleaned it all up and got new seals. Everything is clean and smooth now. All the seals are on correctly. However, when I push the piston back in the cylinder with the new seal, I don’t get the spring action that you show after. It gets stuck and doesn’t slide in and out. I lubed it all up with brake fluid before installing as well. Thoughts?
Ok, Cody! It's on to the slave. I'll be ordering the assembly and other components you suggested. If I'm not mistaken it will just be a matter or removing the slave, cleaning the interior then installing the new one? You're video will surely help. I'll also need the rubber float for the master cylinder. That part number will help. Again, I am no mechanic; health an fitness is my profession and I see the same passion you have for your expertise as I do for mine. And, I just might be a mechanic before we're done. Thanks so much!
Hey man thanks I am subscribed now just picked up a 1983 honda shadow been sitting for years I'm gonna get it going picking up tomorrow and will Def need this for sure thanks man
Wow what a great informive video. I just bought a 83 v45 magna. Nothing has been done to my bike. I just ordered a rebuild kit off eBay. Wonderful job on the video. I just subcribed. Thank you
Thank You so much! Just acquired a mint 98 VFR. Everything but the juice in the clutch. Love to tinker and rebuild. Your video is informative and fun to watch. Zip Zip, lol. Really appreciate the sharing of knowledge for Free. Peace To All.
Hi Cody, Video was helpful. I also am replacing the seal on the push rod entry of the block (what you advised not to do, but It is causing a leakage from the other side. Does anybody know what is the name of that seal? I can't find it on the internet.
Dude you probably saved me so much time and frustration... This wasnt mentioned at all in the hydraulic brake system portion of my manual for this bike
Good vid! Right at 18:00 you were talking about the other piece of the slave that attaches to the case.... That piece and the rod came out all together on mine. The seal practically disintegrated. It looks like there is an o-ring on the back of it and it's only held in place by friction.
Oil is leaking between the slave push rod and seal:( or puking as you had stated. I ordered a new seal and may attempt your way of doing it and hope it works.
Great video Cody!! I just rebuilt the clutch slave cylinder and change all the seals around my 83 cb650sc thanks to your great instructions. I have a leak coming from behind the clutch slave cylinder push rod. Is there a seal/ gasket I can replace there? The leak is quite important when riding the bike after 3 miles. ☹️ Thanks
So ive got a 86 magna and i have a baby oil leak coimg fron the bottom of the slave cylinder would a rebuild fix it or it is the seal on the case you were talking about
I have 82 magna iv owned it seance 1985 and never had any problems with the slave but now it's leaking out of the slave and in joyed your video just need to order the kit and clean it up the bike still runs as it did when I got it I also have 83 v65 and never had issue yet and also have the last magna 03 witch has a cable thanks
Nice vid, thanks ! Quick question: Is it not supposed to be greased in any way, other than the brake fluid between the piston and cylinder as you showed ? For my VFR750F the manual mentions multipurpose grease for the small oil seal and silicone grease for the large piston seal.
His brother big Bless and great teaching videos.I own a 1981 honda CM400T is my first project with a vintage motorcycle and I love it.but your videos are great I haven't seen any videos on how to adjust the clutch disk with the spring or how tide they will be need to be any help with it .I will appreciate.thanks a million
Great video especially the tip on using the needle nose pliers as a one way valve. Sadly access to the Slave cylinder is not quite as easy to access on my ST1300 but hoping not going to have to remove it. I have no resistance on the clutch when the engine is hot (fine when its cold!) so just going to try replacing the fluid and bleeding it first and hope that doe sthe trick.
Great video thank you brother I almost pulled my clutch apart thinking my clutch was shot so you saved me145 bucks and I ordered a rebuild kit for 15 bucks
Thanks! You made it look so simple. Noticed you did not replace the housing seal, correct? What else was it you were freely sharing? 1984 V65 Magna, 2300 miles, original owner, mostly garaged.
Thanks for warning me about the seal for the push rod behind the slave cylinder. I rebuilt the slave (worked out nicely) but still have an oil leak, now i know I can't just pull out the oil seal and put in the replacement without trouble. Too much of a project for a home garage repair sounds like or will you do a video for that job too?
One more thing, Cody. Got an e-mail from a Valk rider in the area who does his own work on his bike. He offered any assistance he can give. I invited him to take a leisure ride through this beautiful Texas hill country and give me a hand. We'll see. Sure do appreciate you, Cody!
I changed fluid on my clutch master cyclinder which looked like it had never been changed since 2005 on my Blackbird. May do slave/ mastercyclinder seals next. Thanks great vid..
Well Cody, more drama. A fellow, who knows something about fixin bikes helped me install the slave and it looked terrible. The good news is I can now get it into neutral. But, it shuts off soon as I put it into 1st. One thing I noticed after looking again at the video is we didn't remove the rod, just inserted it into the slave when installing. The clutch lever goes easily about 3/4 way to the handle then continues slowly to the handle. What do you think?
Thanx for all the info. My '94 Intruder clutch isn't disengaging, and just might need this remedy. At 3:52, you might want to use an impact screwdriver. When it's hit with a hammer, it transfers most of the energy to a turning torque.
Just bought a 2004 boulevard 1400 cc. Today...clutch not working, think I'll try what I just learned today . I'll let you know if it works. Thanks for the video..
Hey there, MD: You described the exact problem I'm having with my 99 Valk (86K mi.). The problem first came about a year ago. My local mech bled the clutch and all was well. But, a few weeks ago same problem. The mech bled the system with little result. Up to last week the bike wanted to serge forward when going into 1st. Putting in neutral was impossible when stopped. Shifting and downshifting was normal when riding. That's the history. But, the other day when I got home from a ride, I noticed something worse in the clutch lever movement and too close to the handle. Sure enough when I started the bike and went to 1st, the bike shut off. That's where we stand now. I've been advised to check the brass bushing at the lever. It was really worn, so I ordered another one. Also, the sleeve for the pivot bolt is missing. One fellow suggested a slave cylinder issue. I am no mechanic to be sure, but after viewing this wonderful tech video, I might be able to pull it off. I was wondering if it would be best to buy a new slave if it looks like the one you are dealing with here. Thanks so much for further advice! Bill McPherson Fredericksburg, TX
Bill McPherson Your description of the issues the bike has, has been spoken to me many many times and it has always traced back to the slave not holding the pressure!! So glad you found the video and that it built confidence in your decision to look into it. Great job checking out the handle pivot bushing. For your particular bike the slave assembly is probably less than 100$ looking on the Honda parts catalog it's around 85$. Buying a brand new one will save time and energy for sure. The location for yours is on the back of the motor, and it is a real wrist killer due to the location. You can definitely clean the old slave up smooth and pop fresh seals in it just as long as it's not heavily pitted on the inside of where the big cupped seal rides (usually it's not). My best advice to you is to grab a nice small mirror and a flash light to set up or hold while you look inside of then slave cylinders home. You will most likely find all kinds of crud inside and ALL of that must go. Grab a pillow and a comfy spot and get to cleaning! Best of luck!
M.D.: Thank you so much for such a prompt reply! You appear to be a man of his word, and I respect that. A few follow-up questions, please. Seems there are two options, the few parts you used, or the complete assembly. Can you direct me to the specific place where I can find the assembly? Also, the repair manual says to remove the kick stand bracket. Is this really necessary? It looks like I'd be able to get into the Slave with the bracket in place. Also, I need the stand to hold the bike up while I dig into that Slave. Finally, on a sentimental note, I bought the Valk new and put 86+ wonderful miles on it. I sure don't want to bury it and will do what I can, within my limited ability, to cure it. Your kind assistance is most appreciated as I certainly will have follow-up questions. I'm currently waiting for the bushing in the lever. I don't expect that will solve the problem, but we'll see. If it doesn't, I'll be preparing (emotionally) to tackle that Slave with the assistance of your tremendous video.
Bill McPherson Ah no worries brother. My passion for helping fellow riders can get the best of me as I don't like leaving answers open ended! I can understand your dilemma with the kick stand. To be honest, I've always removed it because I am blessed to work at a shop with a bench! The coincidence of this question is that I actually have a 2000 Valk on the bench now. I took it upon myself to test it out and my main concern came to fruition when I wanted to see if that far left slave holding bolt would get blocked by the kick bracket... and it does. Worse case scenario you could loosen all of the slave bolts/hose bolts as well as the kick stand bracket and have a buddy (or wife) stratal the bike as you swiftly move the kick bracket away and get the slave out then and reinstall the kick stand bracket a tighten her up so you can do the rest of the work with the bike on the side stand..🤔 Just a thought! As far as where to get your parts, I usually send people to hondapartshouse.com or bikebandit.com they have good prices. Remember to buy a new master cylinder rubber diagram for up top and FOUR new crush washers for the two hydraulic lines. Keep rags handy because once those hoses are disconnected from the slave the fluid will drain out quicker then you can say "quick grab a rag!" I wouldn't get your hopes up about the bushing, they do make a difference in lever functionality but unless there was no bushing left at all the symptoms you have and the history of the other tech's work proves the issue at the slave. Hope this sheds more light Bill! Oh one last thing, if you haven't already be sure to head over to the www.motorcyclemd.com website and subscribe. This way I'll have your email and you can contact me from there for future needs! Keep in touch! -Cody MD
Good info, Cody, MD! Absent having assistance, I think I may have an idea. There's a picnic bench a few feet from where the bike sits now. I'm thinking of rolling the monster up to that bench and securing it there. It may lean a tad, but can't see a problem with that while working on the slave. One more favor if I may. If you can access a diagram of the slave, it sure would help to know precisely what "numbers" to order. Yes, I tried to subscribe; not sure it went through. You're a real blessing, Cody! I've spent a lot of time on the Valkyrie Riders web site and the guys were willing to help. It's there that I was directed to UA-cam.
Bill McPherson sure thing Slave assembly - 22860-MZ0-000 Hose crush washer- (x4) 90545-300-000 Top master cyl. Diaphragm- 45520-MM5-006 If your just getting the slave seals Cup, Slave Cylinder- 22865-MJ8-003 Oil seal (small)- 91209-MB0-003 🤙👍
I'll be tackling this soon on my VFR750F which has a slipping clutch, one little point about using a Philips screwdriver on the reservoir screws, they're very easy to damage. The correct driver to use is a Japanese Industry Standard (JIS) one. The shape is different and they fit and grip perfectly, I've already undone mine and they were completely rusted up. It took me years, many damaged screws and the internet to realise that I was using the wrong tool. 😭
Rebuilding mine on a 87 super magna, looked way worse that this one. Now the seal that is sandwiched (the one that's a pain in the ass and will likely have to drop the engine and get inside to replace) I cant seem to find the part number or the name of said seal. Any help would be great! Thanks for the video!
Great video Cody. I have replaced seals in both the master and slave clutch units and still do not have any pressure after trying to bleed air. It seems there is very little pressure at the master cylinder, and I cannot detect any "resistance" through the range of motion. So, I removed everything again and carefully checked seal positions. No change. I am using fresh DOT 4 fluid. Frustrating, and I am out of ideas. This is an 86 Honda VF700 Magna. Is there any reference to indicate what pressure should be developed at the master clutch unit and how would it be measured?
On the mangas air gets trapped at the banjo bolt on the master cylinder (it's the high point of the system). Bleed from that bolt and you'll get pressure.
Cody I have a 95 Yamaha v-max 1200 ... clutch slave replaced, bleed still no pressure or actuation .... is possible the clutch pin is frozen ... I didn't pull the pin when I installed the new slave cylinder .. I'm ordering parts to rebuild the shift lever master ... the fluid was trash ... just bought the bike ...
Do you have a video showing how to remove and install push rod oil seal? I have an 85 Nighthawk. I have the piston seal done but can’t figure out the push rod seal.
Great video, thanks for doing this! I've got a problem, though. When I put the Piston back into the cylinder, it is not springing back nearly as much as yours. Any ideas how to proceed?
Thanks I was watching cause I wanted to see the inner workings of this slave cylinder to get some engineering ideas to retro this to a yamaha xs650 and I see what I can do now to make this work.
Great video! I wish I had watched this one a week ago. I rebuilt my clutch master cylinder thinking that was where I might be sucking air, but didn't solve the problem. I just pulled my slave cylinder on my 84 Magna and it looked exactly like that Sabre? you were working on I believe. I should get my kit in about 4 days. One questions. I have already cleaned up all the parts and was wondering if the piston needs to be perfectly silver like yours was. I am afraid to use my bench grinder wire wheel and take too much material off. Let me know what you think? Thanks Again.
+Blinker Please Definitely don't use a grinder or wheel. Just needs to be smooth. If it is heavily pitted you will need to replace the piston or assembly
Thanks, I thought I heard you say you may use a wire wheel, I guessed on a die grinder, in the video, but I am glad I asked. I ended up using fine sand paper and steel wool to remove the discoloration from the piston and the cup. I got my kit with seals and spring yesterday, but I am waiting on an insulator which was broken in the removal. Honda dealership will have it on Tuesday. Thanks Again. I will let you know how it turns out.
@@TheMotorcycleMD I have a brass wire wheel on my bench grinder and it does a great job cleaning up the piston without damaging it. Great video and awesome tip on using the pliers on the brake house. I used a pair of needle noise vise grips!
Great video, quick question; Why are you holding the line with the pliers, does it make a difference? the liquid still goes through the same way? Or are you blocking it off completely with the pliers?
Man You are awesome! Im stoped at part 18:00 in my garage, i just cracked the old one an realized, that new one needs to go from inside...trap. Your idea was like a blessing for my situation, THANK YOU!
Cody, I watched your video on how to remove, clean and rebuild the clutch slave cylinder and then decided to rebuild mine on my 1997 GL 1500 SE. It took me about 5 hours and it looked just as bad if not worst than the one you demonstrated. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and expertise. Thanks to you I had no surprises and knew what to look for. Keep up the good work.
Jim
Great Job James! This is very encouraging to hear! Glad I was able to shine a light on your job!
Ride safe brother!
instablaster...
I just traded a electric bicycle for a good running Honda 1983 V65 Manga. The clutch slave cylinder, I think was worse than the one in the video, although the clutch did work. Now the clutch slave cylinder is nice and clean rebuilt and fully functional. Cody thanks for the video most helpful !!!
i put new dot 4 in brake & clutch master cylinders & bleed every 2 years in hopes of preventing this on my 84 magna.it didnt work.i finally removed slave cyl to examine.holy hell, what a mess.mine was as bad as yours.cleaned everything up with 600 grit & brake cleaner, new seals, works perfect.so appearently the slave cyl had never been removed in 37 years.that taught me new brake fluid every 2 years is not enough to prevent problems.a physical cleaning is neccessary for long term reliability.lesson learned.now i know.thanks for showing others what i had to learn the hard way.
Thanks Cody. Very helpful video. I got a little aggressive cleaning the crud out and broke the gasket which is not included in the rebuild kit I ordered. Awaiting the replacement gasket then I'm hopeful no other issues. Looking forward to getting my 1985 Honda V65 Sabre back on the road. Thanks again and I would not have tried this repair without your video...
Cody, You’re amazing!!! Huge thanks for this video. I followed it exactly three days ago and my ‘86 Magna shifts the best it ever has since I’ve owned it! Mine was even nastier inside than the one shown here. Thanks again!!!!
Replaced parts on the master, and slave cylinder, clutch left me stranded at work one day, just had no pressure to function. Bike still wouldn't go into gear because the clutch wouldn't build pressure no matter how much I bled the line. Bled the line the way you did, my 94 Honda Shadow VT1100 was working in 5 minutes, slid into first gear like butter, clutch feels brand new. Thank you. 😂
Great video Cody. I have a 2000 Yamaha XJR1300SP with a hydraulic clutch system. The previous owner put very nice aftermarket master cylinder caps on the clutch and brake but left out the plastic caps. I've just found a parts retailer that has the OEM Yamaha cap set, so I'm ordering them to replace the pretty ones and return the master cylinders to standard. I also need to replace the slave cylinder as the piston is very corroded. The complete OEM unit is £120, so I think it's worth it. Better than renewing seals every year. I'm in the UK, by the way. Your videos are very informative and great to watch. Thank you, and keep up the good work 👍
You absolute legend! Thank you SO much for this video! I've never done a hydraulic clutch and I wasn't sure if I was gonna be able to do this myself, but thanks to your video I got it done! My 1986 VT1100C didn't want to shift smooth anymore, I heard air bubbles in the master cylinder, it started riding as soon as I let off the clutch, just like you mentioned!
I took it apart, cleaned and polished it, got new gaskets for the little piston, bleeded the vacuum line and boy does she shift/clutch smooth now!
thanks for this,
my clutch wasnt working and loosing clutch hydraulic fluid.
I bought the parts and It took about an hour including the bleeding.
About 1/2 the time was bleeding the cylinder. Remember to keep topping up the master cylinder or you will introduce air. learned the hard way
tom
+Mot Nitsua Very important indeed! Glad you got her going brother 🤙
The plier bleed trick worked wonders on my magna v45 after spending hours trying to get all the air out. Thanks so much!!
Kudos.....I have to join the ranks of the choir who opted to thank you, for both the completeness of content and thorough tips from start to finish. The video took all the mystery and fear out of this task and was easily transferred to my 1988 goldwing. Best regards.
Just did this on my ST1100A. As an added bonus I finally found out why the PO replaced the bleeder valve with a bolt. The threads were stripped. So I ended up bleeding it from the top by tapping the handle bars and jiggling the clutch lever. Took almost 1/2 an hour of me looking like an idiot, but it worked in the end! I ordered a replacement clutch slave housing immediately, for the next time I bleed that sucker.
Oh and I'm really glad you addressed that engine casing seal! I was wondering if it didn't want replacing... Gonna leave it well enough alone now! Thanks man.
Ya Beauty!! (as we say in Scotland) Thank you so much for this video. I bought a Honda V65 Sabre unseen ( I know, I know) I already have a V65 Magna so I know they are pretty solid bikes. I was then going to ride it from England to Spain including through the centre of Paris. On the way I noticed the clutch was really spongy and I had to pump it about 5 times to change gear. In Paris I bled the system and it was pretty dirty and there was air too. I thought this would cure it but the symptoms reappeared making for a rather interesting road trip. When I got to Spain I found your video and followed the steps. Everything runs sweet now and I am just back from a run round some mountain twisties where the bike performed great. Thank you again for some great information. 10/10
Ha, my bike has been sitting too long and when I grabbed the clutch nothing. I cleaned the slave cyl some time back but didn't have a rebuild kit. Now I gotta get one and do it right.
Thanks for the vid. You have a new sub as a bonus lol.
Thank you so much, I was able to get my 1990 GSXR 1100 running after having a crazy time trying to figure out why the clutch wouldnt engage 😊😊
Awesome! So many useful tips. I am just about to do my slave cylinder for the first time, and your video gives me total confidence and it will save me so much time! You Rock my man. Thank you
My ‘86 Magna is stalling at lights, takes way too much force to shift, and the clutch went from having 1/2 - 3/4 free play until engagement to instant engagement. no force needed to squeeze lever .
replacing master cylinder (stripped screws, drilled out🙄)
but hydro clutch =closed system . then why was my fluid almost empty🤔
ordering slave cylinder with the master
you’re the best🤙🏽
Update- rebuilt slave: problem fixed
here I am with an 84 v65 Magna
Master rebuild, Slave rebuild, new diaphragm, HEL perf. Braided Clutch line, pro Honda Dot 4.
so happy❤️ Thanks Cody
Okay, I DID IT!! Thank you so much! The 86 Shadow vt1100 is a bit different. To get the cylinder out of the ... larger cylinder hole, I just used compressed air to push it out. For anyone else who does this, be careful and wear a respirator because it basically aerosolizes the brake fluid in it and sprays it EVERYWHERE, but it did get it out. I also had to sand it down with like 1000 grit on the sides because there was some nasty gunk stuck to the sides. it's still... not quite as springy as it is in this video, and after bleeding the clutch is still very stiff. But at least I replaced all the gaskets. (except for the one inside where the rod is, still don't know if there's even supposed to be one there, can't find any documentation on it)
Cody great tips today, I am working on a 84 CB650SC and the clutch has been sluggish and loosing fluid,know I know where the check thanks . Watch all the time keep it up your the best.
Sir do you have video for clutch replacement same model on the video
Sir do you have video how to change clutch lining
Finally a bit of good news, Cody. I called a local auto mech and ask if he'd come over and loosen the two kick stand bracket bolts. He said yes and no charge. (I didn't know the guy). He came over and in less that 30 seconds had the bolts loose. Quite a fine fellow. Well worth the $20 tip!
Bill McPherson NICE! Sometimes you just need a bigger hammer! Haha😆 Glad your able to make some more progress brother. Let me know how the rest turns out!
The clouds parted and the Angels sang!!!
It is amazing how my happiness has returned with a firm clutch lever. The bleeding was problematic at first, but I used a gravity feed technique I saw for a Husqvarna and it seemed to get rid of a trapped bubble of air. I then used your hose clamp technique and it worked flawlessly! I thank you and my '84 Magna thanks you. I have had her for 32 years and didn't want to be angry with her.
YOU ARE THE MAN b d
+Blinker Please This is so encouraging to hear brother! So glad you were able to take and apply some tricks in the video!! Ride safe man! 🤙🤙
I'm getting this same bike tomorrow and can't wait to get her back to perfection
Got in a bind being broken at work, fast forwarded to the important bits because I didn’t have time to dig out the FSM. Thanks for the vid.
I was given an ‘ 85 Shadow vt700 and told that if I got it running I could have it. I took the slave cylinder off and at first I thought it was full of saw dust! That brake fluid corrosion is nasty stuff. Glad to see I was not the only one with the same type of corrosion.
Glad you mentioned that inner seals trouble replacing. Most folks who get that far would undoubtedly yank the puppy out. Guessing the clutch master was still in working order (not leaking) since you didn't address its rebuild as well. One of the ill's most folks blow gaskets over is these slave's acting a fool. After a bike has so many thousands of mile's and thirty + years sitting around, its little wonder any of them work at all. Have a great day brother.
Damn, I'm trying this tomorrow. that was EXTREMELY well-explained, thank you so much! Subscribed!
You saved me close to $500 with this video! Thanks for sharing your knowledge...the Samurai trick worked beautifully
Good content, I half ass did a flush and clean without taking the slave cylinder apart, now I know I only did a half ass job on my Vulcan 88, it's a 1996 and that fluid was a mess. Thanks for the info, now I know it's all got to come apart and be cleaned property....thanks bud!...love your chanel....
Sir, thank you for explaining to the layman the principals of the hydraulic clutch(piston activation same as the BRAKES LOL) Believe it or not a lot of people don`t realise the hydraulic clutch is based on the brake piston theory and bearly manage to oil the clutch cable on simple machines.
I will of course strip down my bikes leaver actuation to see if all is smooth and in clean working order BUT my symptoms are as follows:
I have a VTR 1000F FIRESTORM 28000 miles old and when I give it 2500-4000rpm on pull off the clutch is hesitant at best, I mean it slips then grabs then slips before lofting the front wheel skyward(I was a bike instructor and have passed every test thrown at us bikers since 1985) I am no amateur to a hydraulic clutch mechanism either as I have previously owned a VT250FD and a VF400FD but this VTRS clutch on this particular machine is indecisive at best and it has either warped plates/worn out clutch or is as some forums state a grabby clutch complex, I will of course strip down and see if it is a maintenance issue as it could well be? as I have only had the bike for a month or 2 but if you have any wisdom or have indeed ridden such a machine could you tell me how to fix this flaw as I love the machine but if it is a design fault it is a catastrophic error and one that I do not wish to ride such a truly potent machine without clutch control as this is second to throttle control and maketh or indeed breaketh THE machine:(
Your reply or any knowledge however small about this bike would be very much appreciated and I do indeed recognise you are inundated with subscribers but from the bottom of my heart or any viewer could you help me with this problem ride.
PS yes I am from Blighty OR dare I say it GREAT BRITAIN and don`t look so shocked as motorcyclists have no political agenda and if the world was ruled by us we would have a RACE at the weekend to see who is who and sell by Monday, enough said:)
God bless you son and please keep up the video content as your videos are of true bike rider significance and appeal to the bike rider that not only wants to "ride but also wants to know what makes it tick"I was a mechanical engineer in the British Army for 10 yrs but I only achieved this posting through asking the questions in day to day situations of what does it do, how does it work! and most importantly what`s it operating parameters the rest is history as they say:)
Doing a great job there. Great videos and presented very well. Your carb videos were extremely helpful for us. We are getting a Yamaha FZ600 and an FJ1100 back on the road. Both from the mid 80s. Just goes to show that the information is soo helpful across all different makes. Maybe we can work on staying in frame at times?? Keep up the great work.
+SW Bedard Glad you found the videos helpful brother. Staying in frame is always a constant battle for since the POV style filming is my preference. Definitely a learning curve using a chest mount! Definitely a work in progress, thanks for your input. 🤙
I have a 1988 honda goldwing 1500 clutch bleeding slave cylinder needs cleaned and thank you for your video, I spent 3 hours no success, watch your video, now go to work on it.
Great vid, rebuilding my master and slave this weekend when parts come in. They look a little different but Im positive this is the case of my intermittent lever problems and inability to bleed the system. Clutch lever would just never come back out.
Cody, awesome video my man. I’m overhauling the whole clutch master and slave cylinder on my 84 magna VF700C. The slave cylinder was just like the one in your video. So I cleaned it all up and got new seals. Everything is clean and smooth now. All the seals are on correctly. However, when I push the piston back in the cylinder with the new seal, I don’t get the spring action that you show after. It gets stuck and doesn’t slide in and out. I lubed it all up with brake fluid before installing as well. Thoughts?
Ok, Cody! It's on to the slave. I'll be ordering the assembly and other components you suggested. If I'm not mistaken it will just be a matter or removing the slave, cleaning the interior then installing the new one? You're video will surely help. I'll also need the rubber float for the master cylinder. That part number will help. Again, I am no mechanic; health an fitness is my profession and I see the same passion you have for your expertise as I do for mine. And, I just might be a mechanic before we're done. Thanks so much!
+Bill McPherson Right on man! Keep in touch with your progress!
My bike is leaking oil, do you have a video of how to drop the engine? Or how you replaced the seal without dropping? Mich appreciated
Hey man thanks I am subscribed now just picked up a 1983 honda shadow been sitting for years I'm gonna get it going picking up tomorrow and will Def need this for sure thanks man
I'm rebuilding my Honda VT250F's slave cylinder, this video is really helpful!
Wow what a great informive video. I just bought a 83 v45 magna. Nothing has been done to my bike. I just ordered a rebuild kit off eBay. Wonderful job on the video. I just subcribed. Thank you
Thank You so much! Just acquired a mint 98 VFR. Everything but the juice in the clutch. Love to tinker and rebuild. Your video is informative and fun to watch. Zip Zip, lol. Really appreciate the sharing of knowledge for Free. Peace To All.
I used this as reference and it was extremely helpful. I appreciate the video.
Hi Cody, Video was helpful. I also am replacing the seal on the push rod entry of the block (what you advised not to do, but It is causing a leakage from the other side. Does anybody know what is the name of that seal? I can't find it on the internet.
Did u ever find the name or part number of thay seal
@@michaellares4365 did you find the part # I cant find it either for 1984 Magna I have a real problem with the parts guys in columbus
Dude you probably saved me so much time and frustration... This wasnt mentioned at all in the hydraulic brake system portion of my manual for this bike
Awesome video, youve been a huge help on the rebuild of my 1995 gpz 1100, thanks for all your work!
LifeOnABike Awesome brother! Glad the tips and knowledge helped you! Ride safe!
Good vid! Right at 18:00 you were talking about the other piece of the slave that attaches to the case.... That piece and the rod came out all together on mine. The seal practically disintegrated. It looks like there is an o-ring on the back of it and it's only held in place by friction.
Oil is leaking between the slave push rod and seal:( or puking as you had stated. I ordered a new seal and may attempt your way of doing it and hope it works.
What a beautiful motorcycle.....luv these old bikes. absolutely luv 'em.
That heating method for the piston wall really helped me, mine had been caked over as much and jammed in there
Thanks for a concise and easy to follow video. I plan to buy a 1984 Honda VF500 that will need such a fix. Seems very doable. Thanks!
Thank you so much.. im currently having this problem with a 97 yzf1000r.. i will be trying this before replacing the cylinder...
Great video Cody!! I just rebuilt the clutch slave cylinder and change all the seals around my 83 cb650sc thanks to your great instructions. I have a leak coming from behind the clutch slave cylinder push rod. Is there a seal/ gasket I can replace there? The leak is quite important when riding the bike after 3 miles. ☹️ Thanks
Very good instructions straight to the point quick video
So ive got a 86 magna and i have a baby oil leak coimg fron the bottom of the slave cylinder would a rebuild fix it or it is the seal on the case you were talking about
I have 82 magna iv owned it seance 1985 and never had any problems with the slave but now it's leaking out of the slave and in joyed your video just need to order the kit and clean it up the bike still runs as it did when I got it I also have 83 v65 and never had issue yet and also have the last magna 03 witch has a cable thanks
Nice vid, thanks !
Quick question: Is it not supposed to be greased in any way, other than the brake fluid between the piston and cylinder as you showed ?
For my VFR750F the manual mentions multipurpose grease for the small oil seal and silicone grease for the large piston seal.
I have the same question, what did you end up doing?
Top notch video, should I be able to push the push rod in by hand when everything is off and exposed?
His brother big Bless and great teaching videos.I own a 1981 honda CM400T is my first project with a vintage motorcycle and I love it.but your videos are great I haven't seen any videos on how to adjust the clutch disk with the spring or how tide they will be need to be any help with it .I will appreciate.thanks a million
Great video especially the tip on using the needle nose pliers as a one way valve. Sadly access to the Slave cylinder is not quite as easy to access on my ST1300 but hoping not going to have to remove it. I have no resistance on the clutch when the engine is hot (fine when its cold!) so just going to try replacing the fluid and bleeding it first and hope that doe sthe trick.
Should we put any grease on the pushrod itself?
They are still using it my 2014 Suzuki DL 1000, I change my fluid every year,, Thanks for the vid!!
Great video thank you brother I almost pulled my clutch apart thinking my clutch was shot so you saved me145 bucks and I ordered a rebuild kit for 15 bucks
Thank you for this great instruction, motorcycle md. I was able to replace the seal and clean out a slave cylinder on my 2001 Concours.
Thanks! You made it look so simple. Noticed you did not replace the housing seal, correct? What else was it you were freely sharing? 1984 V65 Magna, 2300 miles, original owner, mostly garaged.
Thanks for warning me about the seal for the push rod behind the slave cylinder. I rebuilt the slave (worked out nicely) but still have an oil leak, now i know I can't just pull out the oil seal and put in the replacement without trouble. Too much of a project for a home garage repair sounds like or will you do a video for that job too?
+Chuck Ziska Its a big job! I can almost bet nobody would pay me enough to pull the motor and replace that seal!
@@TheMotorcycleMD what is the OEM part # for the seal I need to replace this on a 84 Magna and cant find a part #
Thanks man. Just had the same problem on my 1990 honda shadow VT1100 and this saved me a lot of money. Good lookin!
Just wanted to say thanks! This video was extremely helpful; I had the same problem and couldn't figure it out until I found this.
One more thing, Cody. Got an e-mail from a Valk rider in the area who does his own work on his bike. He offered any assistance he can give. I invited him to take a leisure ride through this beautiful Texas hill country and give me a hand. We'll see. Sure do appreciate you, Cody!
Bill McPherson Great! Sounds like a nice guy! Best of luck.
Wow! great video, and you are easy to understand and listen too. Thank you for your professionalism
I changed fluid on my clutch master cyclinder which looked like it had never been changed since 2005 on my Blackbird. May do slave/ mastercyclinder seals next. Thanks great vid..
Well Cody, more drama. A fellow, who knows something about fixin bikes helped me install the slave and it looked terrible. The good news is I can now get it into neutral. But, it shuts off soon as I put it into 1st. One thing I noticed after looking again at the video is we didn't remove the rod, just inserted it into the slave when installing. The clutch lever goes easily about 3/4 way to the handle then continues slowly to the handle. What do you think?
Bill McPherson did you clean out the inside of the cover that the slave assembly sits in? Was it bled correctly?
Thanx for all the info. My '94 Intruder clutch isn't disengaging, and just might need this remedy.
At 3:52, you might want to use an impact screwdriver. When it's hit with a hammer, it transfers most of the energy to a turning torque.
Just bought a 2004 boulevard 1400 cc. Today...clutch not working, think I'll try what I just learned today . I'll let you know if it works. Thanks for the video..
Great video. Thanks for pointing out all the little details that “professional” mechanics always skip.
So well done! I appreciate the video and this is on my list for this spring. 1999 Honda ST1100 with a stiff clutch. Thank you!
Thanks Cody, Freaking awesome, I got my 89 shadow 1100 going thanks to u. I really appreciate ur expertise.
Should the push rod stop at some point? When I put mine back in I can push it to the point where I can't pull it back out and that dosn't seem right.
Yea something is not right with that. It should not push all the way Into the case and disappear.
Hey there, MD: You described the exact problem I'm having with my 99 Valk (86K mi.). The problem first came about a year ago. My local mech bled the clutch and all was well. But, a few weeks ago same problem. The mech bled the system with little result. Up to last week the bike wanted to serge forward when going into 1st. Putting in neutral was impossible when stopped. Shifting and downshifting was normal when riding. That's the history. But, the other day when I got home from a ride, I noticed something worse in the clutch lever movement and too close to the handle. Sure enough when I started the bike and went to 1st, the bike shut off. That's where we stand now. I've been advised to check the brass bushing at the lever. It was really worn, so I ordered another one. Also, the sleeve for the pivot bolt is missing. One fellow suggested a slave cylinder issue. I am no mechanic to be sure, but after viewing this wonderful tech video, I might be able to pull it off. I was wondering if it would be best to buy a new slave if it looks like the one you are dealing with here. Thanks so much for further advice!
Bill McPherson
Fredericksburg, TX
Bill McPherson Your description of the issues the bike has, has been spoken to me many many times and it has always traced back to the slave not holding the pressure!! So glad you found the video and that it built confidence in your decision to look into it. Great job checking out the handle pivot bushing.
For your particular bike the slave assembly is probably less than 100$ looking on the Honda parts catalog it's around 85$. Buying a brand new one will save time and energy for sure. The location for yours is on the back of the motor, and it is a real wrist killer due to the location. You can definitely clean the old slave up smooth and pop fresh seals in it just as long as it's not heavily pitted on the inside of where the big cupped seal rides (usually it's not).
My best advice to you is to grab a nice small mirror and a flash light to set up or hold while you look inside of then slave cylinders home. You will most likely find all kinds of crud inside and ALL of that must go. Grab a pillow and a comfy spot and get to cleaning! Best of luck!
M.D.: Thank you so much for such a prompt reply! You appear to be a man of his word, and I respect that. A few follow-up questions, please. Seems there are two options, the few parts you used, or the complete assembly. Can you direct me to the specific place where I can find the assembly? Also, the repair manual says to remove the kick stand bracket. Is this really necessary? It looks like I'd be able to get into the Slave with the bracket in place. Also, I need the stand to hold the bike up while I dig into that Slave. Finally, on a sentimental note, I bought the Valk new and put 86+ wonderful miles on it. I sure don't want to bury it and will do what I can, within my limited ability, to cure it. Your kind assistance is most appreciated as I certainly will have follow-up questions. I'm currently waiting for the bushing in the lever. I don't expect that will solve the problem, but we'll see. If it doesn't, I'll be preparing (emotionally) to tackle that Slave with the assistance of your tremendous video.
Bill McPherson Ah no worries brother. My passion for helping fellow riders can get the best of me as I don't like leaving answers open ended!
I can understand your dilemma with the kick stand. To be honest, I've always removed it because I am blessed to work at a shop with a bench! The coincidence of this question is that I actually have a 2000 Valk on the bench now. I took it upon myself to test it out and my main concern came to fruition when I wanted to see if that far left slave holding bolt would get blocked by the kick bracket... and it does. Worse case scenario you could loosen all of the slave bolts/hose bolts as well as the kick stand bracket and have a buddy (or wife) stratal the bike as you swiftly move the kick bracket away and get the slave out then and reinstall the kick stand bracket a tighten her up so you can do the rest of the work with the bike on the side stand..🤔 Just a thought!
As far as where to get your parts, I usually send people to hondapartshouse.com or bikebandit.com they have good prices. Remember to buy a new master cylinder rubber diagram for up top and FOUR new crush washers for the two hydraulic lines. Keep rags handy because once those hoses are disconnected from the slave the fluid will drain out quicker then you can say "quick grab a rag!"
I wouldn't get your hopes up about the bushing, they do make a difference in lever functionality but unless there was no bushing left at all the symptoms you have and the history of the other tech's work proves the issue at the slave. Hope this sheds more light Bill! Oh one last thing, if you haven't already be sure to head over to the www.motorcyclemd.com website and subscribe. This way I'll have your email and you can contact me from there for future needs!
Keep in touch!
-Cody MD
Good info, Cody, MD! Absent having assistance, I think I may have an idea. There's a picnic bench a few feet from where the bike sits now. I'm thinking of rolling the monster up to that bench and securing it there. It may lean a tad, but can't see a problem with that while working on the slave. One more favor if I may. If you can access a diagram of the slave, it sure would help to know precisely what "numbers" to order. Yes, I tried to subscribe; not sure it went through. You're a real blessing, Cody! I've spent a lot of time on the Valkyrie Riders web site and the guys were willing to help. It's there that I was directed to UA-cam.
Bill McPherson sure thing
Slave assembly -
22860-MZ0-000
Hose crush washer- (x4)
90545-300-000
Top master cyl. Diaphragm-
45520-MM5-006
If your just getting the slave seals
Cup, Slave Cylinder-
22865-MJ8-003
Oil seal (small)-
91209-MB0-003
🤙👍
Great job! Very well done. Easy to follow.
Customer just dropped one off. Thx for the advice. I shall use it wisely.
Nice job
I'll be tackling this soon on my VFR750F which has a slipping clutch, one little point about using a Philips screwdriver on the reservoir screws, they're very easy to damage. The correct driver to use is a Japanese Industry Standard (JIS) one. The shape is different and they fit and grip perfectly, I've already undone mine and they were completely rusted up. It took me years, many damaged screws and the internet to realise that I was using the wrong tool. 😭
Very good video.I think I'm gonna b able to solve my problem with my 03 ktm 125 sx dirt bike.Same thing u say,hit the clutch n start rolling.
Enjoyed the video, and great tips along the way... well done! Subscribed...
Rebuilding mine on a 87 super magna, looked way worse that this one. Now the seal that is sandwiched (the one that's a pain in the ass and will likely have to drop the engine and get inside to replace) I cant seem to find the part number or the name of said seal. Any help would be great! Thanks for the video!
@John R Borges I got in touch with a local bike shop and they helped me find it. I have the shop manual on my phone lol
@John R Borges I got in touch with a local bike shop and they helped me find it. I have the shop manual on my phone lol
hi great video ive rebuilt the slave and master but the clutch still wont disengage any suggestions
Could be the plates are stuck or the clutch basket is grooved, needing filing.
Great video Cody.
I have replaced seals in both the master and slave clutch units and still do not have any pressure after trying to bleed air. It seems there is very little pressure at the master cylinder, and I cannot detect any "resistance" through the range of motion.
So, I removed everything again and carefully checked seal positions. No change.
I am using fresh DOT 4 fluid. Frustrating, and I am out of ideas.
This is an 86 Honda VF700 Magna.
Is there any reference to indicate what pressure should be developed at the master clutch unit and how would it be measured?
On the mangas air gets trapped at the banjo bolt on the master cylinder (it's the high point of the system). Bleed from that bolt and you'll get pressure.
@@joeMW284 Thank you Joe. I will give that a try.
Thank you sir i wish you did tutorials for more things. Im sure the owner is happy your so thorough
Cody I have a 95 Yamaha v-max 1200 ... clutch slave replaced, bleed still no pressure or actuation .... is possible the clutch pin is frozen ... I didn't pull the pin when I installed the new slave cylinder .. I'm ordering parts to rebuild the shift lever master ... the fluid was trash ... just bought the bike ...
Do you have a video showing how to remove and install push rod oil seal? I have an 85 Nighthawk. I have the piston seal done but can’t figure out the push rod seal.
Great video, thanks for doing this! I've got a problem, though. When I put the Piston back into the cylinder, it is not springing back nearly as much as yours. Any ideas how to proceed?
Thanks I was watching cause I wanted to see the inner workings of this slave cylinder to get some engineering ideas to retro this to a yamaha xs650 and I see what I can do now to make this work.
Great video! I wish I had watched this one a week ago. I rebuilt my clutch master cylinder thinking that was where I might be sucking air, but didn't solve the problem. I just pulled my slave cylinder on my 84 Magna and it looked exactly like that Sabre? you were working on I believe. I should get my kit in about 4 days. One questions. I have already cleaned up all the parts and was wondering if the piston needs to be perfectly silver like yours was. I am afraid to use my bench grinder wire wheel and take too much material off. Let me know what you think? Thanks Again.
+Blinker Please Definitely don't use a grinder or wheel. Just needs to be smooth. If it is heavily pitted you will need to replace the piston or assembly
Thanks, I thought I heard you say you may use a wire wheel, I guessed on a die grinder, in the video, but I am glad I asked. I ended up using fine sand paper and steel wool to remove the discoloration from the piston and the cup. I got my kit with seals and spring yesterday, but I am waiting on an insulator which was broken in the removal. Honda dealership will have it on Tuesday. Thanks Again. I will let you know how it turns out.
@@TheMotorcycleMD I have a brass wire wheel on my bench grinder and it does a great job cleaning up the piston without damaging it. Great video and awesome tip on using the pliers on the brake house. I used a pair of needle noise vise grips!
Do you know the part number or name of the seal that sits against the case from the inside?
Hey nice honda saber ! I own one of those. When i got it mine it had those problems that system was dry with crusty fluid.
Great video, quick question; Why are you holding the line with the pliers, does it make a difference? the liquid still goes through the same way? Or are you blocking it off completely with the pliers?
+[Seryoga] I'm not fully closing off the line, just adding restriction.
Hello and thank you!!! Before I try to put back the clutch cylinder, I'm guessing it should be in neutral.
It was in neutral when I took it out.
Thank you very much for the bleeding tip.
Saved me a lot of time
Just bought a 83 magna my first bike! It will need a slave cylinder rebuild the is video was very informative!
I have cmx 450 rebel 1986. Need you opinion. About the. Bendix. Need. Open all engine to repair or. Have any other option
Awesome video thank you so much for Sharing. I was working on my buddies bike with him and this will help us out greatly thank you