Jan Hojer Dynos from the start to finish! | Beta Break Ep.2

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  • Опубліковано 31 гру 2024

КОМЕНТАРІ • 525

  • @robertwettstadt9876
    @robertwettstadt9876 4 роки тому +3832

    I have never seen that last clip from Adidas Rockstars. That was outrageous 😄

    • @AlbertOkay
      @AlbertOkay  4 роки тому +459

      I know right! Ever since that semi finals, they've made sure to either tape off that arete or set around it so you can't bypass everything haha

    • @mattiasgonczi
      @mattiasgonczi 4 роки тому +51

      Haha, i was about to gmail that thats why they invented tape ;)

    • @ScorchGER
      @ScorchGER 4 роки тому +59

      @@AlbertOkay they fucked up 2019 again. Florian Klingler skipped half of the boulder at M3 the same way Jan did in 2015

    • @sodeste6053
      @sodeste6053 4 роки тому +2

      That was so funny oh my god

    • @God-gi9iu
      @God-gi9iu 4 роки тому

      Robert Wettstädt lololol

  • @verbalwound5874
    @verbalwound5874 4 роки тому +2920

    Jan Hojer is olympic's routesetters slenderman in their nightmare

  • @hanspaul9006
    @hanspaul9006 4 роки тому +2013

    Jan Hojer grabs over 2 m distance.
    Routesetter: Are we a joke to you?

    • @ravener96
      @ravener96 4 роки тому +52

      And the answer they got back was a resounding yes

    • @shumugaming
      @shumugaming 4 роки тому +35

      Routesetters: wait, thats illegal

    • @blizzerdreieinssechs7401
      @blizzerdreieinssechs7401 3 роки тому +2

      HAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAH LOL HAHAHAHHAH LOLOLOL

    • @Adam-uo2mc
      @Adam-uo2mc 3 роки тому +5

      I'm just going to grab the top. What?!

    • @234i9
      @234i9 7 місяців тому

      i hate these repeated comments

  • @LednacekZ
    @LednacekZ 3 роки тому +1388

    I wonder, how much trouble or embarrassment do you get when somebody finishes your route by not taking it at all.

    • @peterdegen7919
      @peterdegen7919 3 роки тому +49

      Depends on the ego of the person who build it!

    • @_FrozenPotato_
      @_FrozenPotato_ 3 роки тому +58

      I'd laugh tbh

    • @blagdomj
      @blagdomj 2 роки тому +28

      A little black tape puts a section OB so the Adidas route setters really just screwed up

    • @nathansatnarain9079
      @nathansatnarain9079 3 місяці тому

      As a route setter I love seeing bèta breaks. Gives me inspiration for climbs.

  • @midnight_commander
    @midnight_commander 4 роки тому +515

    6:32 "Nice route. I think I'll pass."

    • @AlbertOkay
      @AlbertOkay  4 роки тому +16

      Zoink!

    • @TerraeChannel
      @TerraeChannel 3 роки тому

      "Oh! So you're giving up?"
      "That's not what I said... ( ͡~ ͜ʖ ͡°)"

  • @johnboling
    @johnboling 4 роки тому +739

    I loved watching Jan skip like 90% of the problem in Vail. Was so fun to watch!

    • @AlbertOkay
      @AlbertOkay  4 роки тому +59

      Ah you were there too! Man the crowd went wild when he did that. I was right up at the front and he was cheezin HARD after he did that. Hilarious yet so impressive.

    • @martinmartin6300
      @martinmartin6300 4 роки тому +1

      So fun!

  • @juless_am
    @juless_am 4 роки тому +126

    This last beta... I would love to see the routesetters' live reaction😂😂😂 Jan is amazing!

  • @spiffo5349
    @spiffo5349 4 роки тому +1619

    Short climbers: if only I were taller
    Tall climbers: if only I were shorter
    Average climbers: guess I just suck

    • @toximan2008
      @toximan2008 4 роки тому +146

      change tall climbers to "if only I was even taller"

    • @mellowman8695
      @mellowman8695 4 роки тому +6

      Facts

    • @mellowman8695
      @mellowman8695 4 роки тому +52

      @@toximan2008 no short climbers have it a lot easier when it comes to holding longer just physics

    • @emilyscloset2648
      @emilyscloset2648 4 роки тому +35

      @@mellowman8695 makes some moves hella difficult though

    • @eyescreamcake
      @eyescreamcake 4 роки тому +28

      Tall climbers: I wish I wasn't made of so much mass

  • @EDUTAMARIU
    @EDUTAMARIU 4 роки тому +907

    This is the really the ultimate "work smarter not harder"

    • @superv757
      @superv757 4 роки тому +70

      Or ´be taller’

    • @philliumOh
      @philliumOh 4 роки тому +34

      Not really it’s just be taller lol

    • @EDUTAMARIU
      @EDUTAMARIU 4 роки тому +22

      @@philliumOh plent of tall climbers wouldn't have come with that, also sometimes short climbers break beta too, give the man some credit

    • @superv757
      @superv757 4 роки тому +5

      You’re probably right. But the way the video was made gives us the impression that having longer arms equals winning.

    • @lawrencetchen
      @lawrencetchen 4 роки тому +2

      Lmao more like grow longer, not try harder

  • @muffin8910
    @muffin8910 4 роки тому +601

    It's all about the neck bro

    • @AlbertOkay
      @AlbertOkay  4 роки тому +33

      Better neck wins haha

    • @buffneck9505
      @buffneck9505 4 роки тому +28

      @@AlbertOkay I win

    • @DopeyDude207
      @DopeyDude207 4 роки тому +10

      Ondra = neck god

    • @jamma246
      @jamma246 4 роки тому +50

      Ondra has the highest giraffe index.

    • @quotient9974
      @quotient9974 4 роки тому +28

      But it’s real. Like for example Adam Ondra has a smaller + ape index and he made a video about how it’s not super super important. But if you cut out all that useless height in his giraffe neck his ape index would be HUGE

  • @TheArmyKnifeNut
    @TheArmyKnifeNut 4 роки тому +340

    Just found your channel, and I have to say that your Beta Break series is one of the most entertaining looks at competition climbing I've seen, and I look forward to more episodes.
    That last problem he broke was soooooo cheeky! The setters were probably pissed off by that one!

    • @AlbertOkay
      @AlbertOkay  4 роки тому +44

      Thanks! I'll definitely be making more episodes in the future. I love how he just sits on the top knowing EXACtly what he's done haha.

    • @TheArmyKnifeNut
      @TheArmyKnifeNut 4 роки тому +3

      Stuff like this makes me really curious to see how climbers break the beta at the Olympics. That would be awesome!

  • @MrPlasmaFox
    @MrPlasmaFox 3 роки тому +45

    From 5:24 onward the announcer and music blended together to form an absolute banger of a hip hop track

    • @felslius
      @felslius 3 роки тому +4

      Holy shit you're right

    • @orang375
      @orang375 3 роки тому +4

      Why it sound chill as fuck, damn!

    • @blandprix1084
      @blandprix1084 3 роки тому +5

      YES, mans is spitting. Never heard anything like it!

    • @BiggusNickus
      @BiggusNickus 3 роки тому +6

      I thought that was part of the track lmao.

    • @Spade_The_Mage
      @Spade_The_Mage 2 роки тому

      What song or beat is it though? I love the beat

  • @Mightyfish_
    @Mightyfish_ 4 роки тому +30

    The Canadian climber was really good and I thoroughly enjoyed watching him climb.

  • @SHOOPWOOOP
    @SHOOPWOOOP 4 роки тому +310

    as a tall climber myself, Jan hojer is GOALS

    • @AlbertOkay
      @AlbertOkay  4 роки тому +16

    • @TheValinov
      @TheValinov 4 роки тому +9

      @@AlbertOkay how tall are you Mr. OK?

    • @AlbertOkay
      @AlbertOkay  4 роки тому +34

      @@TheValinov I'm 6'1'' but I have a negative 3.5 ape index ): Trex arms haha

    • @DopeyDude207
      @DopeyDude207 4 роки тому +10

      @@AlbertOkay F

    • @code3xiv
      @code3xiv 3 роки тому

      6' tall here with ++ape index 😄😄

  • @Pflunze
    @Pflunze 4 роки тому +99

    Please do a video on tamoa and how his short height helps him.
    Really love this series! :)

    • @AlbertOkay
      @AlbertOkay  4 роки тому +43

      I have SO much to talk about Tomoa, man I love watching that man and could talk about him for hours - don't worry video about him will be coming out soon!

    • @Pflunze
      @Pflunze 4 роки тому

      @@AlbertOkay same here, very nice! I am so looking forward to this! :)

  • @partykrew666
    @partykrew666 3 роки тому +374

    Just as an old wise man at a local crag once told me, "there are two kinds of climbers: good climbers and tall climbers."

    • @MrYport
      @MrYport 3 роки тому +7

      my grapes are sweet

    • @dandymcgee
      @dandymcgee 2 роки тому +10

      Three: Good, tall climbers.

    • @lonkk1
      @lonkk1 2 роки тому +39

      Ya but being tall actually makes it harder to be a “good” climber. Youre a lot heavier and your weight hangs further from the wall. Tall climbers need to find tall betas in order to compete. This is why you don’t see tall people dominating the climbing world like you do in vollleyball or basketball.

    • @elooouan
      @elooouan Рік тому +2

      @@lonkk1 ​ that or they’re too lazy to get stronger as they rely on their height.

    • @lonkk1
      @lonkk1 Рік тому +22

      @@elooouan it’s not about being lazy. It’s about the physical limits of what a body is capable of. On overhangs, the weight of gravity grows exponentially the longer the person is. It’s the same reason you never see an Olympic gymnast over 6ft. When is comes to maneuvering body weight, being shorter will always be an advantage.

  • @prestonellebracht1200
    @prestonellebracht1200 3 роки тому +18

    Cool Video. I also am 6'2" guy with a 6'6" wingspan and I have to solve certain problems differently because it is much harder to do anything that requires raw strength due to the distance I have to pull.

  • @adamfrederick3006
    @adamfrederick3006 4 роки тому +37

    it's easy to get tunnel vision with route setting because you yourself know the intended beta. Especially if you're vertically challenged you can't even fathom things that are instinctual and basic to taller climbers until you see the beta get broken. Happens a lot with zig zag routes.

    • @Remon_
      @Remon_ 4 роки тому +2

      Yeah i feel like usually routes force you to go a certain way by making certain moves and positions unpractical or impossible. for example placing a hold in such a. way that it is impossible to dyno to it.

  • @skepticmoderate5790
    @skepticmoderate5790 4 роки тому +7

    That one at the end is the reason climbing is the best spectator sport.

  • @drgoog2577
    @drgoog2577 4 роки тому +7

    Your channel is going to be huge soon! My climbing coach just sent all of us this video, which should tell you something about the quality of you videos. Keep it up!

    • @AlbertOkay
      @AlbertOkay  4 роки тому +1

      Ah that's so exciting! I hope my videos has been able to pass the time during this virus!

  • @Cannonbo
    @Cannonbo 4 роки тому +5

    this is so much more instructive than just watching people climb

    • @AlbertOkay
      @AlbertOkay  4 роки тому +1

      Thanks Cannonbo! I'll be making more of this series in the future and I hope you enjoy it!

  • @yts1007
    @yts1007 4 роки тому +6

    You should add 2017 munich boulder worldcup final men's #1. On the last second he tries his own beta, which was only way to send it in left seconds, and he wins the cup.

  • @RubixB0y
    @RubixB0y 4 роки тому +5

    I love how at 6:25 it looks like he's hacking from inside a video game, like, "Oh, I can just hang from the top of the screen. what now... you want me to put my hands on this one? Okay, happy?"

  • @drageoksllechtim2078
    @drageoksllechtim2078 4 роки тому +10

    Dang you’re gonna go far kid playing in the background was kinda perfect on the last clip

  • @MilesDeep
    @MilesDeep 7 місяців тому

    This is such a cool series, thanks for making it!

  • @jesusa_ikher
    @jesusa_ikher 3 роки тому +1

    I discovered your channel last night and I'm loving your content. I just started getting into climbing and this videos are very inspiring.

  • @maxbowen6482
    @maxbowen6482 4 роки тому +18

    I feel like he's my spirit animal😂 skipping holds and big reaches are my thing

  • @diabl2master
    @diabl2master 4 роки тому +83

    Will you show the many many occasions when Jan Hojer's height makes it basically impossible for him to do certain moves?

    • @Appox7
      @Appox7 3 роки тому +4

      Link?

    • @woulg
      @woulg 3 роки тому +3

      I would also love to see this

    • @simolimo91
      @simolimo91 3 роки тому +10

      Team 6' 2" here, I can confirm that I simply do not fit in certain movements tracked by people 20-30cm shorter than me

    • @majesticgh0st
      @majesticgh0st 3 роки тому +27

      Team 5"2 here, can confirm I cannot fly to the final hold with 1 movement

    • @matthewthompson6455
      @matthewthompson6455 2 роки тому +9

      No. Stop complaining about your advantage

  • @jamescanjuggle
    @jamescanjuggle 4 роки тому +6

    This was a really good video! Very well put together, your narration was super smooth too and worked well with the editing.

    • @AlbertOkay
      @AlbertOkay  4 роки тому +1

      Thanks James! I'm working towards getting a better computer, so the editing and audio will only get better from here!

  • @RandoManFPV
    @RandoManFPV 4 роки тому +2

    You make amazing videos. I am a country boy from Arkansas and I've always been a try climber lmao
    Now as a 23 year old ots been years of nonstop working and never even really having time to get out in the woods and do the things I love but your videos have inspired me to find a local climbing facility and get up some walls!
    Ever since I found your channel I've been making plans to gather some friends and hit a place in NWA or Little rock.
    If anyone out there knows a good climbing facility for beginners, maybe a place that's not to crowded or challenging where we can really get some learning in would be great!

  • @thaKingCrimson
    @thaKingCrimson 4 роки тому +17

    Nice video Albert! Cool comparison of two very different climbers

    • @AlbertOkay
      @AlbertOkay  4 роки тому +2

      Thanks Quinn! Such a big difference on how they climb, but both really successful!

  • @lynchh28
    @lynchh28 4 роки тому +6

    OMG 6:25 is craaazy! hahaha that's awesome. Love your beta break series, keep em coming! :D

  • @benja_mint
    @benja_mint 4 роки тому +417

    i was like "wait. what? jan hojers ape index isnt as big as i thought... oh wait... that number was given in something american, probably football fields per burger"

    • @alicexu5471
      @alicexu5471 4 роки тому +48

      Football fields per burger gagahahahhaha

    • @jamma246
      @jamma246 4 роки тому +3

      Why would you expect him to have a large ape index? He's pretty tall, and your tallness decreases it; it's just that he is tall _and_ has a large arm span.

    • @benja_mint
      @benja_mint 4 роки тому +53

      @drew13600 that was 75 years ago. probably 525 years ago, in american years

    • @briseboy
      @briseboy 4 роки тому +1

      IT was in chest beats per silverback.

    • @briseboy
      @briseboy 4 роки тому +13

      @drew13600 That was the Russians, Drew, and they paid millions of actual LIVES for that. the USA got rich quick, and quickly became narcissistic beyond all bounds - see your orange baby.

  • @designerbro7260
    @designerbro7260 4 роки тому

    I just started climbing a month ago and this channel has taught me so much. Keep up the good work!

    • @AlbertOkay
      @AlbertOkay  4 роки тому

      Thank you thankyou! I'm glad you were able to learn a thing or two!

  • @Castkett4ever
    @Castkett4ever 4 роки тому +1

    I'm not a climber - not by choice because I'd love to do it just for fun, anyway - but your BB series really made me love climbing (sorry if it's not the right term) in about 18h... so good job on getting someone into the sport as a watcher with just a few videos!

    • @AlbertOkay
      @AlbertOkay  4 роки тому +1

      Heck yes! I'm so glad you were able to be exposed by the great and interesting sport of climbing. I hope one day climbing can be possible for you and as always keep crushing it!

  • @burningmilk7820
    @burningmilk7820 4 роки тому +3

    I'm so glad this was recommended to me

  • @BeorOng
    @BeorOng 4 роки тому +1

    fantastic channel dude, loving this content looking forward to seeing you grow your channel in the future

  • @colebingham2734
    @colebingham2734 4 роки тому +2

    Dude this channel is great!

  • @sionyevans
    @sionyevans 4 роки тому +9

    Brilliant jan Hoyer

  • @matthewgough9533
    @matthewgough9533 4 роки тому +28

    5:10 vs 6:26 - This seems so obvious only after I've seen Jan do it.

    • @AlbertOkay
      @AlbertOkay  4 роки тому +11

      It's not only that Jan is tall, but he knows how to think tall. Really talented climber that we are lucky to watch all the time!

  • @aidanloeser4890
    @aidanloeser4890 4 роки тому +1

    I just love Jan Hojer.

    • @AlbertOkay
      @AlbertOkay  4 роки тому

      He's definitely one of my favorite climbers!

  • @thepowpowkitty
    @thepowpowkitty 4 роки тому

    Very nice video! Time to watch them all!

  • @sailingblacklotus
    @sailingblacklotus 4 роки тому +9

    Thanks for showing how much of a beast Sean mccoll is!!!

  • @NickRoman
    @NickRoman 4 роки тому

    one of the better beta breaks

  • @dimodimo1986
    @dimodimo1986 4 роки тому

    Excellent analysis and video presentation!

  • @xCNapo
    @xCNapo 4 роки тому +4

    I guess Jan is the only climber that would have a super easy time to construct boulders that nobody else could climb. :)

  • @fab1000
    @fab1000 4 роки тому +1

    Very interesting serie! Thanks!

  • @Bobbzorzen
    @Bobbzorzen 11 місяців тому +1

    oldie but a goldie

  • @DopeyDude207
    @DopeyDude207 4 роки тому +1

    Great vid! I love that all body types have advantages and disadvantages in climbing! I'm 5'10 with +3 ape but man some of these lankier guys are something out of this world

  • @ADerekThompson
    @ADerekThompson 4 роки тому +1

    This was really encouraging! I am a 6'4" climber with a positive ape index and I always get people saying "tall people..."/*pshing*/shaking heads after I send a hard boulder problem by breaking the beta. This has made me self conscious thinking I am cheating and making me always try to follow intended beta without skipping holds. But now I think I will lean into my advantage and explore new creative ways of sending!

  • @ets5661
    @ets5661 2 роки тому

    Wow so cool to see hojer crushing the board in the old chimpanzodrom

  • @aron7548
    @aron7548 Рік тому

    Im 185cm tall and I have a +11cm ape index and Im light as a feather no matter how much I eat. I train when I want, Im lazy so it's not often, I only climb outdoors, I eat junk food and still climb at the level of my climbing partners who train 5-6 times a week, eat healty food and boulder indoors but have a normal human body. Life is good.

  • @netfischer
    @netfischer 2 роки тому +1

    The offspring: "Hit em right between the eyes"
    Jan Hojer: 🧗👊🤷‍♂️
    The routesetters:
    ...
    😢

  • @crizzleyo815
    @crizzleyo815 2 роки тому

    watching the beginning with skinny fingers is something else man :D my fingers break just from watching

  • @ianmc01
    @ianmc01 4 роки тому +1

    Colin - what to do vs Jan - what looks cool

  • @johnrobertson7583
    @johnrobertson7583 2 роки тому

    Reminds me of the UCI rulings against certain positions and equipment when they were “too fast”…including stripping victories from competitors because “ well, we just dont do it that way, so youre disqualified”…

  • @codyheiner3636
    @codyheiner3636 4 роки тому +1

    I liked the huge buildup and then the cut to Jan already holding the top hold, that's just what I came to see...

  • @spacescienceguy
    @spacescienceguy 3 роки тому +2

    This was a delight to watch after my experience at the gym the other day. I finally sent my first v4-v6 climb after a week of projecting and 50+ attempts. Two days later I sent my second v4-v6 after two attempts by reaching up and gently touching the finish with both hands (I'm 186 cm), skipping over half the holds. It felt strange and almost like I cheated, but watching Jan Hojer do this in competitions and people loving it makes me feel better!

  • @masterpropper2485
    @masterpropper2485 4 роки тому +57

    To quote Lynn Hill: Tall climbers don't climb, they reach! ;-)

  • @itscharlieschannel
    @itscharlieschannel Рік тому

    I think the hardest part about setting routes when he exists is not knowing his limits. Hes clearly the only one that does, and it would be such a specific mindset to be in to know this.

  • @SurrealSam5808
    @SurrealSam5808 4 роки тому +1

    Love these vids. I don't think anyone else is making videos highlighting these moments. Would love to see more of these (like and sub)

  • @geotechms
    @geotechms 3 роки тому

    Great video thank you! 👍

  • @the.Aruarian
    @the.Aruarian 4 роки тому +2

    One thing I hate as a tall climber, is people saying how easy it is to 'just reach for it'. Besides the obvious downside at compression problems (fucking sit-starts...), something that rarely gets acknowledged is weight and leverage. A lot of the time individual moves are much more strenuous as a taller and heavier climber.

    • @AlbertOkay
      @AlbertOkay  4 роки тому +1

      I know that feel, I'm a taller climber...but even worse I have almost a negative 4 inch ape index so I don't even get the benefits of reach, just heavier and have to try much harder when I cut feet. Jan is definitely an inspiration to me since he's someone that's making it work even being a taller heavier climber

  • @pablopons3968
    @pablopons3968 4 роки тому +2

    Great video!

  • @joshuajoshua7671
    @joshuajoshua7671 4 роки тому +2

    Anyone remember the comp where he climbed using the foothold from right towards left. While others did something differently (either or coordination jump/ on a slab )

    • @AlbertOkay
      @AlbertOkay  4 роки тому +1

      Hmmm...do you remember if it was an IFSC event or a different international comp? Maybe ChongQing 2018? or Munich 2017?

    • @joshuajoshua7671
      @joshuajoshua7671 4 роки тому +1

      @@AlbertOkay pretty sure it was an IFSC event. Should be between 2016-2017. Me and my friends remembered the route but just couldn't recall the exact event.

  • @escaladaseguraamimanera3621
    @escaladaseguraamimanera3621 3 роки тому

    tremenda fuerza y destreza la de este hombre.

  • @zh5108
    @zh5108 4 роки тому +3

    Pretty funny having this recommended to me. Never knew you were into climbing. We went to high school together. :p

    • @AlbertOkay
      @AlbertOkay  4 роки тому

      No way! Hit me up on Instagram or FB, would love to catch up!

  • @teogo
    @teogo 4 роки тому +7

    Pretty obvious which climber shows more tenacity and, in the end, is more impressive.

    • @notparticularlywellmixedpu1916
      @notparticularlywellmixedpu1916 4 роки тому +9

      Right!? As much as it is impressive to see him skip huge portions of the problems, I can't help but to feel as if he's cheating the system. Sean was putting work into it, Jan was just tall.

    • @AlbertOkay
      @AlbertOkay  4 роки тому +7

      In a way what both of them are doing is quite impressive - and I definitely am going to be making a video comparing the advantages of shorter climbers versus taller climbers in the future which I hope you'll enjoy!

  • @motherlove8366
    @motherlove8366 4 роки тому +6

    Florian Klingler pulled a similar stunt in Adidas rockstars 2019. The context made it all the more awesome.
    The finals are 4 boulders knockout, meaning the last climbers “fall out” until only 2 climbers remain for the 4th boulder (which they perform at the same time).
    At the time Florian approaches the 3rd boulder, he has one zone and one top in the bag. Yoshiyuki Ogata has two tops and Jongwon Chon has one zone and one top, but with fewer attempts than Florian AND he just achieved a zone on the 3rd boulder before Florian. Meaning to avoid knockout, Florian needs to top this boulder.
    The boulder is a hand jab boulder, which Florian does no seem comfortable with. After a few failed attempts, his future in this comp is looking rather bleak.
    Florian then turns around and hypes up the crowd to try the boulder one last time. He compresses between the two hand jabs, and then just jumps to the end, skipping the rest of the boulder. The crowd goes wild, and the commentator even remarks “He went very Jan Hojer there”. This was the first time I saw a skip like that in competition and the context made it super hype.

    • @AlbertOkay
      @AlbertOkay  4 роки тому +3

      I was watching a live stream and was screaming when he stuck the move - I LOVE the adidas rockstar format. It's such a fun format for the spectators and competitors to fight through!

    • @motherlove8366
      @motherlove8366 4 роки тому

      Albert Ok Agreed, it serves really well to ramp up pressure and build a proper climax.
      It was my first time seeing Florian but I was so proud of him at that point.

    • @beccatingley3019
      @beccatingley3019 4 роки тому +1

      yoshiyuki ogata as well on the same problem. is also what helped him get the win over klingler

    • @motherlove8366
      @motherlove8366 4 роки тому

      Becca Tingley I feel like the crowd kinda nudged him on this one

    • @beccatingley3019
      @beccatingley3019 4 роки тому +1

      ​@@motherlove8366 i personally disagree. but even in the final he skipped the last crimp altogether even after they took away the blocking hold.

  • @jbtv000
    @jbtv000 Рік тому

    The last one was really outrageous...

  • @geotechms
    @geotechms 3 роки тому

    Awesome video 👍

  • @diabl2master
    @diabl2master 4 роки тому +6

    Jan Hojer been making route setters scared for years 😂

  • @tallbetaclimbing
    @tallbetaclimbing 4 роки тому

    As a 193cm climber with 201cm ape index I felt like I often couldn't do the beta I saw in videos for boulders : Too compressed, feet too high. I created this small channel (Tall Beta Climbing) to show a tall beta for some boulders, and even quite a few sit-starts ! I give my opinion too, if being tall makes it harder or easier. For now it is mostly in Fontainebleau and Rocklands but please send me videos if you are tall too (like 190cm+) !

  • @jonny2vests
    @jonny2vests 3 роки тому +1

    Occam's Razor does not favour the simplest solution, it favours the solution with the fewest assumptions, which isn't necessarily the simplest.

  • @barmonavirus
    @barmonavirus 4 роки тому

    Sup Albert, just stumbled across this lol. congrats on the youtube success my man

  • @Tormentor
    @Tormentor Рік тому

    Well, I'm 178cm and have a wingspan of 187cm, so almost 4' as well, but it comes with a rather pronounced downside as well. When climbing in cramped positions, even more so in overhangs, the amout of leverage you cannot use to your advantage becomes problematic. With longer arms you cannot rely on just hanging on your skeleton as much as shorter people do, plus mantling becomes a bit more of a challenge.

  • @PeterOla-Itan
    @PeterOla-Itan 4 роки тому +1

    Lol that's me at the gym, the routesetter even opened an anti tall boulder problem just to challenge me

  • @Abigrooster69
    @Abigrooster69 4 роки тому +2

    Music at 5:25?

  • @messynate
    @messynate Рік тому

    I’ve always wanted to see 2 similar routes , one stretched for taller climbers to see how they would climb instead of reaching

  • @nicolaine9924
    @nicolaine9924 4 роки тому +2

    Pure gold

  • @Kiwivolant
    @Kiwivolant 6 місяців тому

    I wonder what he's up to today, I haven't seen him on the international scene in a while !

  • @George_Climbs
    @George_Climbs Рік тому

    Jan Hoyer... the man for whom the shrug emoji was created ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Amazing!

  • @thecrazyandthewild
    @thecrazyandthewild 4 роки тому

    Thanks!

  • @Scorpion_Master
    @Scorpion_Master 4 роки тому

    absolute legend

  • @Blattealkiller
    @Blattealkiller 4 роки тому +3

    Well, Jan Hojer can also do a front lever on his little fingers, despite being a quite heavy climber. I don't think a lot of lighter climber can do that ahah

  • @Murdog83
    @Murdog83 4 роки тому +3

    Jan and Sean are two of my favourite climbers. While this is a really neat comparison and I enjoyed the video a lot, I do think you should compare the overall results of World Cup/Adidas Rock Star events for Sean and Jan. I believe Sean has the edge in lead, while Jan in bouldering (Jan had a killer season a few years ago). Sean has won RockStars three times I believe.
    I only bring this up to show that while it can be frustrating as a short climber to watch a taller climber reach past your crux move, it does not mean taller climbers will always have an advantage. Sometimes as a shorter climber I have a much easier time doing certain moves than my taller friends, but the advantage is just not as obvious unless you look for it.

    • @AlbertOkay
      @AlbertOkay  4 роки тому

      Hey David - don't worry I'm going to be making content on the advantages of being a smaller climber. I'm definitely trying to keep it balanced on this channel alternating between male and female - short and tall as much as possible. Thanks for the comment and watch out for more content in the near future!

  • @sacchin1271
    @sacchin1271 4 роки тому +4

    Jan : "I have my own way"

  • @edition-deluxe
    @edition-deluxe 2 роки тому

    The last boulder, if I was judging, I would not have given credit for.

  • @Hansipansieiki
    @Hansipansieiki 4 роки тому +5

    Dont Forge the time crimped the sign :D

  • @lawrencetchen
    @lawrencetchen 4 роки тому

    As a setter, tall beta is and will continue to be the bane of our existence

  • @stuck_in_a_fishbowlagain652
    @stuck_in_a_fishbowlagain652 4 роки тому

    The last problem from Rockstars 😂 I could sense the tears from the routesetters

  • @andulasis6283
    @andulasis6283 4 роки тому +1

    im 6.3 (191cm) and climbing is so much fun for because i can somtimes skip a lot of the hard parts and leave my friends in awe but it sometimes is a disadvantage as well. i only climb 6b+ so far but curious if it will help me on harder routes

    • @andulasis6283
      @andulasis6283 4 роки тому

      @Hoyt Volker well, i climb with a friend who knows his stuff well and he tells me how to climb, and i watch him do it, and its super fun for me to show him that i can skip the parts which are the hardest for him :D but i m not always doing it because i wont really learn then and get stronger. but somtimes i can just jump to the top, or do momentum moves staticaly :D

    • @andulasis6283
      @andulasis6283 4 роки тому

      @Thu Nell Ⓥ no i fully agree with you! i often do routes that i "cheated" again properly. but somtimes i am really to tall and its much harder or even impossible (for me at least). i wouldnt learn much or get stronger if i just skip holds

  • @klexy4420
    @klexy4420 2 роки тому

    I've experienced that. Two years ago, I had a guy I was bouldering with and he was 10cm? A bit more? He was taller than me and he did a route and I tried it after him and couldn't do it. I was sure that it was impossible for because of my height. ( I was bouldering for less then 2 years, at this point) I told my trainer who said we should do that route, that I can't do it. Then he showed me a way I didn't think about. I still couldn't finish it, because of my strengh and flexibility and my trainer said that to, but it wasn't about the height anymore. Now I've been getting taller (175cm) and now Im bouldering with a guy and Im 7cm taller and I've got more experienced and if he says he can't do a route because he isn't tall enough I try to encourage him to figure out a way together so that he can do the route too.
    It's really nice to see when he does a route he said was impossible

  • @AG-io5wr
    @AG-io5wr 2 роки тому +1

    If the road your on doesn't suit you. Change direction. Without asking for acceptance or approval. The haters will hate. Pay them no mind.

  • @gregsiegel7072
    @gregsiegel7072 4 роки тому +1

    5:11 skipped the whole boulder comparison timestamp

  • @2DarkHorizon
    @2DarkHorizon 3 роки тому +1

    The real question is it better to be tall or have really long arms?

  • @phildickson8944
    @phildickson8944 3 роки тому

    He cheesed tf out of that climb at the end 😂

  • @Swayzz331
    @Swayzz331 3 роки тому +1

    Song 5.24 ?? Is good

  • @johnnienoel-baker
    @johnnienoel-baker 4 роки тому

    Sadly he hasn't done 1-9 on the campus board. The campus rungs on that campus board are not the standard distance (22cm) apart.

  • @johnmedeiros8553
    @johnmedeiros8553 3 роки тому

    What a boss 👍