Hi. Very good videos. How did you use the inlays template? On a Pin Router? What is the used thickness on the highest spot (center line) of the fretboard? thanks a lot.
Hi Freddy, one question on binding routing, is the router bit cutting only the rosewood, or also cutting a sliver of the mahogany? if cutting mahogany, how to cut the body side end of the rosewood+mahogany? if not cutting mahogany, is the binding strip then not really covering/overlapping the rosewood-mahogany joint line? thanks!!!
I set the router to cut as close to only cutting rosewood as possible. I will err on the side of cutting a hair of mahogany, but that's not problem to adjust the binding if needed at the neck body joint.
good idea doing fret board that way, i havent seen many straight gibson necks most of the time if the bass side of the neck is setup straight the treble side would have relief..makes for a hard set up the guitar..gibson flaw.. thanks freddy.
1.When you are trying looking for the center line, do you use the fretboard as the reference or the neck? 2. And also when you are trying to find the centerline of the guitar what method do you use? 3.I am using Bartlett's plans, you mentioned you used other plans before trying his, what do you recommend and what were the differences in the plans? Did you prefer one set over the other? I'm asking because im building my first 59 LP replica. Thank you ahead of time if you get to answer my questions :)! These videos are instrumental in my design process, just incredible amounts of information. I would pay for a dvd of this, you should think about that.
great video as always Freddy. One question please: When you atach the binding? before or after having radiused the board? I think that routing the channel on the completed neck/board job is much more safe than cut the board wideness before attaching it on the neck. You make me inspired. Thank you very much for sharing this great details.! I'll follow every clip of you. ciao
Hi Umberto. These neck will have the traditional "nibs" so that means the binding must be installed after the frets are installed...which means after the radius.
@@willdenham The only place I used titebond was to install the little maple strip over the truss rod. Why? it's a pretty insignificant glue joint and it's easier.
@@FreddysFrets I apologize, maybe it was the cap I saw you use Tite Bond on. I just got my 59' spec neck and body and am weighing whether to glue the neck in with hide glue or Tite Bond. I am watching your build as a reference and just want to know the best way to do everything.
So much doublestick tape, Freddy? These brittle rosewood boards gives easy tearouts, perhaps you dont have that problem? Great vids, man, skilled luthier with a Rush addiction, couldn`t be better.....
Actually it's not double stick tape, it's a strip of masking tape on each piece, with dots of medium CA glue on the tape. It's a new process for me so I'm still feeling out how much tape I need for a particular situation. It's really great though, there is absolutely no lateral movement once it's stuck in place. I find that carpet tape has a squishy bit of give or movement unless you clamp it down hard, and then it really grabs the wood and you can tear out splinters when removing it. So this method with the masking tape is very gentle on removal....no tearout at all, and the second best thing is that it's cheaper than carpet tape.
15:16 I fell in love with that router bit. what a beast!!!
Man, this is probably the highest quality Les Paul build. You have a real talent. I can only imagine how much it would cost to have you make one.
Great video series Freddy!
I waitied to see how you make the neck inlay cavity ... why you didnt show us that?
Please do a more in depth tutorial on doing inlays. Thanks for the vids!
when will part 8 be out these videos are killer
Hi. Very good videos. How did you use the inlays template? On a Pin Router? What is the used thickness on the highest spot (center line) of the fretboard? thanks a lot.
Your Dad seems like a nice fellow.
Hi Freddy, one question on binding routing, is the router bit cutting only the rosewood, or also cutting a sliver of the mahogany? if cutting mahogany, how to cut the body side end of the rosewood+mahogany? if not cutting mahogany, is the binding strip then not really covering/overlapping the rosewood-mahogany joint line? thanks!!!
I set the router to cut as close to only cutting rosewood as possible. I will err on the side of cutting a hair of mahogany, but that's not problem to adjust the binding if needed at the neck body joint.
@@FreddysFretsthanks so much Freddy. Love your videos so much. I’ve watched them like 20 times now 😅. Greetings from down under 🦘.
good idea doing fret board that way, i havent seen many straight gibson necks most of the time if the bass side of the neck is setup straight the treble side would have relief..makes for a hard set up the guitar..gibson flaw.. thanks freddy.
I wasn't expecting part 7 so quick, thanks!
Please do a more in depth tutorial on doing inlays and where did you get the fret rule? Thank you.
Hey Freddy where did you get the fret ruler 📏
Love the craftsmanship! Are these for sale, partially built?
Would love one for myself!
Bradley P
Thanks Bradley! I build to order, no partial builds though :)
@@FreddysFrets What Do you Charge?
Looking forward to part 8.
Such clean work.
Would you A-B-C them when they're done? I'd love to hear how (dis)similar these three siblings sound.
1.When you are trying looking for the center line, do you use the fretboard as the reference or the neck?
2. And also when you are trying to find the centerline of the guitar what method do you use?
3.I am using Bartlett's plans, you mentioned you used other plans before trying his, what do you recommend and what were the differences in the plans? Did you prefer one set over the other?
I'm asking because im building my first 59 LP replica.
Thank you ahead of time if you get to answer my questions :)! These videos are instrumental in my design process, just incredible amounts of information. I would pay for a dvd of this, you should think about that.
05:37 thanks 🙏
great video as always Freddy. One question please: When you atach the binding? before or after having radiused the board? I think that routing the channel on the completed neck/board job is much more safe than cut the board wideness before attaching it on the neck. You make me inspired. Thank you very much for sharing this great details.! I'll follow every clip of you. ciao
Hi Umberto. These neck will have the traditional "nibs" so that means the binding must be installed after the frets are installed...which means after the radius.
yes that's true but it's also true that a tool called fret tang nipper does the job too!! In this case how you reply? :)
sorry , you're right. I've been confused . I have assimilate the reason now!! thank you for your understanding grazie.
Did your indexing with the rosewood work ok?
Are those real pearl or pearloid inlays?
NOS Authentic Italian plastic!
@@FreddysFrets Why do you do Tite Bond on the neck and hide glue on the fretboard?
@@willdenham The only place I used titebond was to install the little maple strip over the truss rod. Why? it's a pretty insignificant glue joint and it's easier.
@@FreddysFrets I apologize, maybe it was the cap I saw you use Tite Bond on. I just got my 59' spec neck and body and am weighing whether to glue the neck in with hide glue or Tite Bond. I am watching your build as a reference and just want to know the best way to do everything.
Ahh i wanted to see that inlay routing jig in action
Freddy, is there a specific advantage to that big wide bit opposed to a regular say 1/2” bit?
No not really. Thanks for watching!
Freddy, on an un-radiused fretboard, do you have a specific depth you route to compared to the thickness of the inlay?
Hey Steve,
Yes I route the inlay depth just a little deeper (.020") than the thickness of the inlays.
Baby bottle warmers are perfect for hide glue.
why use acrylic inlays instead of pearl?
Just for authenticity. It is exactly the same material that was used in '59. One of the three did get mother of pearl as a matter of fact!
@@FreddysFrets Ah, that makes sense! Your videos are awesome I gotta try that tenon jig you made, it's very clever!
How can i get intach with u to place an order?
Hi Moshe, you can email me at: freddy at freddysfrets dot com
FreddysFrets your site a block't me
So much doublestick tape, Freddy? These brittle rosewood boards gives easy tearouts, perhaps you dont have that problem?
Great vids, man, skilled luthier with a Rush addiction, couldn`t be better.....
Actually it's not double stick tape, it's a strip of masking tape on each piece, with dots of medium CA glue on the tape. It's a new process for me so I'm still feeling out how much tape I need for a particular situation. It's really great though, there is absolutely no lateral movement once it's stuck in place. I find that carpet tape has a squishy bit of give or movement unless you clamp it down hard, and then it really grabs the wood and you can tear out splinters when removing it. So this method with the masking tape is very gentle on removal....no tearout at all, and the second best thing is that it's cheaper than carpet tape.
Ok, that figures. Good luck with your built, looking forward to your next vid...
Good lordy im hornier than a bag of potatoes
thank you
Wut?
yes, from time to time
Perfection, all the way! Mw