Unexpected Wheel Rim Problem Revealed | Range Rover Classic Longest Track Prep Begins | 4xOverland
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- Опубліковано 24 січ 2022
- Prep on the Range Rover begins in the workshop, and we have an unexpected wheel rim problem revealed. Welcome to "4xoverland", the world's first global adventure motoring channel.
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A work hint .. when drilling through a rivet or anything really, especially on a firewall, to stop that sudden push though and possibly damaging whatever is on the other side, put a tube of some sort over the drill bit and only leave exposed enough drill to do the job.. even a small block of wood drilled though is enough, plastic tubing, an old bit of copper tube.. anything is better than having to repair what's on the other side.
Andrew, pull the window frames from the doors and clean/de-rust the window channels. Replace the Channel Rubbers with new. The flocking wears off the old rubber and then you have bare rubber on glass and a fight to roll up the windows. You may as well install your new cranks while you are at it. Do it right, do it once. Too bad you don't read these posts, just the ones from your Patreons, the curse of being a full time business man and UA-cam Superstar.
Correct ... the regulators look like the old Marina Van ones. The teeth deform.
Best to chalk the glass first for runner position ... sometimes they pop off.
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thank you!
Loving this project.
Just completed my second two door restoration,it’s an illness and need counselling ;)
As you alluded to Andrew,it’s cathartic and fun.
Top tip:On both vehicles I dumped the upper tailgate( thin early style )lower seal.
Replaced the track with the later type and used the much improved 4 door type seal which all fits perfectly.
Sourced from FF and a rusty donor.
This is much thicker and conforms to seal better,definitely reduces the draw of toxic fumes…
As for the look,no one will notice the difference.
Can’t wait to see her in action ,cheers Warick
With the radiator when the engine is hot, get a temperature gun and measure different areas of the radiator. It's common for older radiators to have a lot of sludge and scale on the bottom, reducing circulation and radiator efficiency. I reckon the thermo fans are a great idea it also makes the car quieter. Lots of advice on old Holden and Ford forums about thermo fans.
You could possibly modify the last bit of the exhaust so it dumps off more out of the side of the body to help get rid of any exhaust fumes getting drawn into the cabin .
Bloke in the cap looks like a hard worker. Love to see it
If you want to keep the original look of the rims i would go to summerfield engineering who specialize in removing the original centres and weld on a new outer rim which will be tubeless compatible. You can even specify a width change or offset change. Located in W.A. they have done many wheels for me.
Glad you’re enjoying the project. A tip I learned from the aviation mechanics I work with. Make “cut-outs” for your tools to sit in. That way you can tell at a glance if you’re missing a tool. I used grey floor mats
Loved this episode! Just a guy pottering around in the shed 'doing stuff' brilliant
Love Love Love this classic Rangey stuff !
So easy to relate with if you have an older vehicle.
Big thanks for covering this.
Love to watch what you do with the Range Rover because I’m attempting to do similar things with my first 4x4, a 29 year old Jeep Cherokee. There is something special about giving new life to an old vehicle.
I don't like the idea of removing a belt driven fan in favor of electric fans, I do think an auxiliary pusher fan would be a good addition but I'm paranoid about e-fan problems. If you do chose to convert to solely e-fan you would want to use a Toyota Prius fan or another OEM unit from a vehicle with similar radiator dimensions
Should title this series 'Pensioner Putters in the Shed'. Loving the series Andrew.
I’m looking forward to this “big time” Andrew!
Now your talking!👍👍
Over-landing for the rest of us…
Great work Andrew. This is the content that I love 👍👍👍
Ive just bought a 1972 Suffix A and I will be starting some repairs to get it running. I appreciate your videos
Loving the Range Rover preparation & adventures !
Working on old 4x4s is almost always so much fun and satisfaction.
Andrew, contact Landrover UK and ask about new old stock.
If they don't have any then they should know where to get some new wheels for you.
If you still don't find any...get back to me as I'm sure I can get some for you.
Regards....David D
Hi Andrew, re the rim issue I would suggest looking at factory Land Rover wheels off either a Defender or a Discovery 1. The beauty of these wheels as opposed to after market ones is the size of that inner lip that is much larger than most other cars. This brings it closer to a beadlock system as it really retains the beads securely at very low pressures. It will be a bit more difficult to fit tyres because of the size of this lip but any quality tyre shop will be capable (and looks like you have a good one). Just beware the early Defender wheels as they are no different to yours.
i would just look for what was used on the last of the Range Rover Classics, which almost undoubtedly were available for tubless tires.
This is definitely a nice change Andrew. Love it!
Andrew, good stuff, you had me at the 'new tools scene'.
Thanks for wheel refresher.
I was glad when I got my last generation MGB with electric fan. The early mechanical didn't have a shroud and could overheat in certain conditions. The electric fan only played up with a faulty sensor/wire, but I was tempted to put in a manual switch for the number of times I would have needed it.
Loving the rebuild. Memories of my Rangie.
I had a similar issue with my 80 series land cruiser windows. It was the window channel weatherstrip. It was dry rotted and hard. The rear doors seemed ok but I replaced all 4 anyways. After installing them I used some silicone spray to lube them and the windows rolled up and down better than my 2016 corolla. I also replaced all the inner and outer belt molding (the rubber seals along the bottom of the window opening), that removed any rattling that the window channel weatherstrip didn't.
I am loving the Range Rover content. Your experience with the window regulator reminded me of a bad regulator I had in my Discovery. It had power windows and if you didn't hit the up switch to stop the window as it rolled down at the bottom, it would keep going and the window would get stuck in the open position. The only way to fix this was to remove the door panel, remove the regulator (which involved using gaffer's tape to hold the window up for the final disassembly, then reset the electric motor's gear to mesh with its partner. I lived with this until I got caught out in a terrible rain storm and had to spend half an hour miserable in a parking lot under the overhang of a restaurant to get the window closed again. After that, I properly fixed the issue.
Just my armchair recommendation: repair BOTH door windows. 'Good enough' on the driver's side will not be good enough once the passenger side is working like new.
Second recommendation: retrofit a cabin filter for your fan/ventilation system.
Agree...but I'd go a step further and say that it'd be worth doing a "proper job" on both sides. Even after "fixing" the passenger side one it STILL sounded as though there was a cat with it's tail stuck in there....and it'll only be a matter of time before the dry lubricant ceases to be of ANY benefit.
Andrew check the plub line of the window runner, you may find it's not true which is causing the glass to stick - you can do two ways take a plumb line on the opposite door and take measurements where it gets stuck and see if there is a difference - 2mm variation will stop it sliding.
Brilliant video. I worked on the window winder of my Land Rover discovery 1 , a bugger of a job.
Great video Andrew. As an owner of a couple of 2 door RRCs project cars I am currently stripping down a working but worn 3.5 V8 engine. What I found was even with clean oil the sump was full of very solid gunk. I suggest as part of your trip preparations that you remove the sump and inspect it as when you hit the corrugations any material in the sump is likely to become suspended and pumped through your lovely motor. Just a suggestion as very keen for you to succeed.
You have a excellent workshop.
19:00 Amdrew, there are two questions about running tubeless tires on rims designed for tubes:
1 - Construction: are the rims physically able to hold air pressure? The rims on my 1948 Willys can't - the center disk is riveted to the shell and air can leak out past the rivets. Sandblasting the rims and sealing them with something like POR-15 can cure this problem.
2 - Do the rims have 'safety beads'? This is a slightly raised portion of the shell that keeps the bead f the tire from coming away from the bead lip of the rim. Some of the rims I have for my jeep have this feature and some do not. I have the rims with this feature on the front axle of the truck and the spare, and the rims without it on the rear axle. While _I_ feel safe running my overlanding truck like this, you run yours harder that I do (mainly due to funding) and your mileage may vary.
My current setup is 235/85-R16s on 4.5 inch x 16 inch rims. Needless to say, these rims are _extremely_ narrow for the tires, but I don't have a lot of choice. My jeep is two feet longer than standard which compromises the turning circle and breakover angle. Stock 29" tires do not provide sufficient breakover for the intended use of the vehicle. Wider or outside-offset rims compromise steering effort and stick out past the edge of the body and you know where that leads. Running wider rims, whether centered or offset creates extra effort on the manual steering and wears wheel bearings prematurely. Surely you can see where this is going. The tire/rim combo I'm using might not be optimal for tire performance, but it's the best I can do on the chassis I have.
The rears rims are circa 1940 _without_ the bead-retention 'lip' and one is tubed because of excessive air loss. The fronts are circa late-1950s 'M38 / CJ5' rims that _do_ have the bead retention feature. One of these leaks as well and I'm hoping to straighten and seal all five rims this spring.
21:00 yep. Those are exactly what I was talking about. Your best bet if you want to stick with factory-appearance rims is to find rims from the first-generation that ran tubeless tires.
28:00 looks like you need to adjust the window frame itself. If you can remove shims to move the bottom of the window frame _aft_ you should be fine. I'd also recommend lubing the window channels inside the door with the window all the way up just to make sure you get all of the sliding surfaces.
My apologies if I come off as a 'know it all', that's not my intention. I have pretty solid experience working on older vehicles, but no so much with overlanding.. :D
From the cold north Canada ! Love what you are doing on this ! I want to see how it goes on the Canning Stock Route with this restoration!
Thats fine now . . . . he says as the winder makes a grinding gnashing noise . . . . love it!! :-) Reminds me of almost every car task I tackle . . . . Learning something new is sometimes worthwhile :_))
Nice vid Andrew
Hi Andrew, i have a 1979 fj45 and its a very good truck. Id love to do just one trip like this for the sake of it. Lol! You are braver than me. As for the rear tailgate. I had the same problem in my RR. Tape might help 🤔
It’s really hard to get good air filters for those early style airboxs. The filters often have little gaps on the side that let dust through. Make sure to check it!
My dads RR1 tailgate window flew open with great regularity on corrugated roads. Was always part of our trips to secure it down with okcy straps throughout the car. 😂
One of the living legend around.keep improving our knowledge #Theking
An idea for you Andrew. If you are super keen on keeping the original wheels, see if someone like barrel brothers or eastern wheel works may be able to modify them to suit a tubeless wheel and widen them in the process to suit a larger variety of tyres
Perfect solution for the washer fluid hose would be a clip from a Toyota 80 series that retains the hose to the lip of the firewall.
Very cool to see the Rangie project. The window issue reminded me a lot about working on a Discovery 4 door to replace the door release cable.
(Fortunately the LR3/4 is very well documented on UA-cam and there is a good selection of videos to watch, especially PowerfullUK). Wonder what the labour would have costed. If I didn't do it myself.
However I would still get both of the Rangies doors, windows and mechanisms checked and replace/fix the item causing the problem.
Silicone spray for window tracks is a miracle worker.
I do all my windows once a year.
Seatbelt retraction can be improved by cleaning the belts themselves. You wouldn't think it would make a difference but it can make a huge difference.
Once help a L ppl got my solo but didn't have the funds to go further 👍 much respect Andrew.
Milwaukee mmmmmmmmmmm👍
Yes we rationalise sooooo true. Love it mate.
Hi andrew! All the best bud!
I thought the canning was still going to be closed this year? Have you got a special permit? If not will you be going somewhere else?
Thanks good stuff about the rims
Lekker Andrew!
Best wishes on this trip Andrew. Please don't travel alone on this trip! Have at least one Land Cruiser tag along
My Troopy and two other 4WDs will be supporting the RR.
Good ol' silicon spray. I use tyre shine from supercheap for lubrication. It's a silicone based spray.
I bought a set of those rims specifically to mount 245 Simex Extreme Trekkers as my off road tyres for my Defender 90 used to air down no problem and never had bead pop even on extreme rutty tracks!
aired up and drove the highway home never a problem they were noisy!
Andrew.. your hair needs its own channel :)
Window alignment is a dark art. There is often adjustment on many of the fasteners but if there is too much slack in the mechanism it is impossible to get right. I often use old scraps of bar soap to free up where the window slides. Sometimes just cleaning them out is enough to restore free movement though.
Rather use graphite powder to lube the window channels. The silicone spray tends to dissapate as time goes by.
Hi Andrew,
Word of caution using the britpart tailgate seal ( the long one that goes all the way round), the rubber that britpart use is too solid, top tailgate will either not shut, or bounce open.
I had fun alive trying to get mine to stay shut, ended up using a good used one, leaks water now. Not sure if genuine ones are available or if britpart have changed the rubber compound, defender door seals by them have similar issues.
Don
I found the same thing and refit my old one. With a little adjustment, it sealed up nicely.
Britpart door seals are always too hard. BritRest shows that on some of his videos.
@@nickboylen6873 I’ve given up with a lot of britpart stuff, some of it is ok but lots isn’t fit for purpose! Unfortunately they have taken over allmakes now, their stuff was better, not much but a bit!
Best was a britpart brake light switch that failed after 2 uses, tested then failed the next time it was used, getting off the drive🤬
@@Bigbluelandy, I had the same experience. Their brake light switches tend to activate and deactivate at different points, so setting them to activate correctly results in them staying on. They are unfit for purpose, but do OK for the fuel selector tap mounted fuel gauge switches on SII and SIII vehicles. A lot of Britpart stuff won’t even fit. Water pumps with wobbly mating faces, brake cylinders full of pores and swarf, brake hoses with unswayed fittings or solid hoses, boxes of brake shoes with mismatched linings that give asymmetric braking, steering components made of brittle Chinesium… the list goes on.
As others have mentioned disco 1 steelys are the way to go tubeless...
on the other hand I drove my 110 2 times through Tunisian desert with the original 5.5 rims with tubed Michelin xs...
only tire defct was when one rim did split.
That is an awesome tool trolley.
Wearing a seatbelt surely helps if you roll the car...? I would never drive without, even on a “narrow sand track”. But wooooop, can’t wait to see this Beaty on the Canning! Nice stuff!
I don't know if you've had the old radiator cleaned yet. On my '63 Volvo P1800 I could see some deposits when looking in through the radiator cap. I took the radiator to a local shop that specialized in working on old radiators. The shop owner is a big fan of trying to preserve old radiators rather than just rebuilding them. They cleaned the inside with a special flush. Then pressure tested it by filling it, apply pressure and hitting it all around the outside with a rubber hammer. This is to check that all the old solder joints are holding tight. If there is a weakness, they tell me this is a great way to expose it. Then it was flow tested to make sure it matched factory flow requirements. Since it passed all testes after the cleaning they painted it back the original black. Shockingly all of that work cost me $55 USD. For reference an OEM replacement is $350 USD. Now my cooling system works fine (for a nearly 60 year old car).
First mod I always did on my Rangies was change the mounting of the rear window struts. LR put them on the wrong way & they always try to push the window open. There was a kit available from Melbourne
In what way did you change the strut mounting?
@@pfcvdv the kit moves the mounting on the car to the bottom & on the hatch to the top like how most struts are mounted on any hatch. The struts then hold the door closed. LR designed it wrong.
@@JobbazIdeaz I can recomend this modification, did it to my old Rangie 30 years ago, actually holds the tailgate down against the rubbers.
I always try silicone spray first before fiddling with the fiddly window winders themselves. Spray lots of it at the bottom of the rubber, where it disappears into the door, and it will run down. Then wind the windows up and down continuously, until they move freely. This unfortunately has to be repeated from time to time. 😊👍
Hi Andrew, just an observation/ personal experience with rivets in high vibration environments. In my own car and at work I have seen rivets, stretch, become loose, work harden and ultimately sheer in high vibration environments. I try whenever I can to mount with bolts and loctite in riv-nuts now.
If you replace the gas struts for the tailgate, make sure they are build in the other way round. The rod needs to face down, as a little bit of oil is in the gas chamber to provide an end-dampening. To keep the oil down over the complete travel the rod must face downwards in open condition.
Yay!
Hello Malume Andrew!😊
thank you for your detailed video
check line on window runs see are straight with glass as know be fase in landrover and discovery 1 window
Andrew you may find a way to machine the tube rims of from the wheel centre and have the rims replaced with tube type rim so then the wheel can still look original
no idea where you would start to do this but years ago I had a mate who had it done on a different vehicle is this an option perhaps
cheers
The problem with thinking the radiator is good ,because it looks ok doesn't mean it is. The tubes in the radiator are horizontal so sediment builds up over time clogging the tubes I would recommend replacing the radiator, the mechanical fan works well replace the fan and clutch, you should be able to put the later plastic fan and shroud on works fine in Death Valley no need for electric fans. Enjoying the video's from the states.
Why not install the new spares on the vehicle and take the old parts as spares?
Always good hello from laos Bob
About the window, and because I had the same problem, try loosen the bottom bolts holding the window frame to the door, and there should be a little movement/adjustment. If you could just move a couple mm the rear or the middle window channel (wide the distance between them), you could easily see the glass slide easily up and down. As for the rims , someone mentioned later model rostyles, but even my 1991 which had rostyles from factory , are tubed style. Only option to keep it original looking, is to remanufacture them . There are a few wheel specialists in UK that keep the centre of the wheel and fit new tubeless outer rim that is 7 inches wide, better foryour 235s . I assume there will be someone in Australia too, but it won't be cheap
This is why I read comments.
for windows rails you need graphite powder.. it will smooth the trajectory of the glass and will prevent the formation of a paste with dust from the environment
Wurth Products do good quality replacement trim clips. God Bless.
Hi Andrew! May I recommend that you fit some external Tire Pressure Monitor Sensors, they are cheep and will fit any car. The small monitor inside the vehicle mounts to the cigarette lighter and will warn you if any tire loses suddenly or slowly any pressure. Very helpful if you're driving for long hours. And how about testing the pressure of the fuel pump? You do NOT want that to crap out on you on the trail. Change the fuel filter too. Cheers! :)
Go watch his past experiences with external tyre pressure monitors. They aren’t reliable and therefore not worth the headache.
@@offroadingfoz Not in my experience, I have them in both my cars and never had an issue. Thanks though! :)
Re window, runner may be mis aligned in the lower half. Should run freely through out. Is there adjustment at the bottom mounts?
That very same inner ridge for tubeless tyres makes it very difficult to break the bead on a tubeless tyre using tools like Tirepliers. There is a significant amount of force required to move the bead off that inner ridge. I guess it's the way these rims are. Apparently the ridge is not even height all around, for a Land Rover wheel - from memory the ridge is lowest, either at the tyre valve position, or directly opposite it - I can't quite remember. This low point in the inner ridge is where the Tyrepliers is used to break the bead away.
Land rover used the same stud pattern for all models practically since the establishment of the marque.
If you run alloy wheels, make sure you have the studs for them. The alloy wheel studs are marked with a slash.
Early disco steelies do just bolt on, quite a few triallers in the UK ran them.
At one stage 15 x8 inch Sunraysias were available for land rover use.
In the late nineties I tried running early seventies series land rover rims on just tubeless tyres. It was pretty hit or miss whether they held air or not at 30 PSI.
Had an old dead rangie laying around. The previous owner tried to go tubeless but he must have ran into the same trouble as me as three of the tyres had tubes and one had copious amounts of selastic. He ran 145/70 r16 muddies. I do not recommend these tyres as the vehicle also had two busted diffs, and two broken axles from its last adventure.
Never ran them aired down, as at that time I didn't know about that trick. I suspect they will roll off the rim easily due to the lack of safety ridges.
Beauty covers a multitude of sins…great fun…best looking 4x4 ever (with the exception of the Defender & G-Wagon)…good luck.
Hi Andrew, are going to replace the diaphragms in the carby's before the trip or take a set just in case. It just astounds me just how many people, especially woman, who just don't get, pottering, they think it's ridiculous and stupid but I love it and I do it every single day. Yep silicon spray does the trick on the glass runners mate. Seeya Rob
those rims look brand new to mine.
You might find some parts from D.R. Rovacraft Pty Ltd . Bayswater.
Looking forward Andrew to the up coming Canning Stock episode's when your finished. One question to you though, is fuel? How will you be storing fuel or if any on board for your adventure?
I think that was in an earlier video. He will have a support vehicle.
@@darrennorth7987 Which will spoil the adventure.
What percentage of the new tools do you need to use straight away to feel the expense to be justified? 😆😆
Not a single one! I have a lot of tools. Most very old. Sometimes is just nice to spend money on something that you want to. Surely you've done it? If you have then you understand. If you haven't, then that's just sad.
You’ve probably settled on replacement steel rims but were alloy rims off a Discovery an option? Stud pattern should be the same.
I've got tubed tyres, now, if overheating due to friction is the cause of the tyre failures mentioned in the video, I would assume I would see this on my tyre pressure/temperature monitoring in time, correct? Then slowing down should resolve the issue...
Try fitting later Range Rover Vogue alloy wheels with the benefit of reducing unsprung weight. Overall weight difference may allow you to carry 2 spares. Finer filter may have an oil sponge filter to suit your air box. May I suggest ‘Range Rover Robustus’ for your old beast. I would recommend an Australian flag painted on the bonnet, see below.
Some people remember where the where when Kennedy was assassinated, I remember when a beige 1972 two door arrived in our driveway owned by a surveyor friend of the family. At 14 years of age I told my Dad the Volvos really did not cut it.
I owned a 1972 two door Range Rover in Lincoln Green, assembled in West Australia. It turned 20 years old in the few years I owned it, with about 250,000 miles on the clock. The fellow who bought it off me had hit a bull in WA in the same model and walked away, clearly a he was a fan.
I had a mate on the Atherton Tablelands who also had a two door at the time, which he rebuilt in stages circa 1994. Whilst the two of us carried out the old rusted chassis for a replacement (Grandfathers Axe is a Range Rover thing is it not?), he chanced to remark that as he rubbed back the bonnet he revealed a Union Jack. I immediately knew where I had seen this unique car before, it had been run by an Australian team in the Paris to Dakar Rally in the late 1970s. This car still in rally fit out was truely awesome as it bounced into a quarry at the back of Cairns, where we were messing about in a Riedy’s shorty Landcruiser about 1980. I nearly cried as Ted told me how he removed the long range fuel tank, roll cage, gauges, Perspex rear windows, all to pimp his ride. Last to go was that chassis, rotten through with rust due to a long life in the tropics with the sodden foam core fill installed to stiffen the chassis. I do not know what that chassis weighed, but my back still twinges. So I was able to provide a photo to Ted of his car in its glory years. One of the 4X4 magazine happened to run an article at that time, wondering aloud where the Paris to Dakar Rally Range Rover had gone. I wrote up a blurb but Ted never sent it in to the magazine. I will have to dig out the negative.
I went on to buy a 1985 4 door with 3 speed auto, which my wife loved to drive.
Later again I owned two second hand Series One Diesel Discoveries, they were truely great vehicles on or off road, using only 9 litres per 100km, inheriting the Range Rover Running gear and 2000kg tare weight. Later models weighed nearly a half tonne heavier, longer over hangs, complex electronics, less agile, less user serviceable and $20,000 more expensive.
I commanded a RFSU platoon in north Queensland with 6 RFSU Perentie LandRovers, truely a horse designed by a committee, (a camel), ideal for the long range reconnaissance patrol work through out Cape York with 1200km range and Izuzu 4 pot non turbo engine. Ideal, apart from a misguided specification of super thick and heavy steel wheels, which brings me back to the benefits of alloy wheels to reduce the unsprung weight.
Just got a set off Gumtree.
@@4xoverland @4xoverland there is a company which makes subtly different replicas of the Rostyles which can run tubeless tyres. They're about £1400 in the UK, but they look very much like the originals without all the bother associated with the original wheels.
Sound rationalisation on the tools, I can totally understand how you reached the conclusion you did!
I would love to see you research and present the arguments for reducing the unsprung weight, it is a topic rarely addressed and generally poorly understood.
Try overfinch for rubbers kingsley cars uk for rims and a lot more
*The water washer bottle would benefit from a strap bracket around the front instead of relying on the integrity of the plastic*
Loving the restoration vibe 👍
Totally agree, especially with the weight of the contents of the washer bottle banging up and down during the hundreds of kms of corrugations the vehicle will incur in the outback. Just asking for trouble. Also the bottom of the reservoir should not just be resting on the body. Should be some sort of pressure absorbent material underneath, like 6mm thick resilient rubber.
Andrew I noticed you have Falken Wildpeak tires on your RR do you like then, will they stay on for the Canning
What year are you planning this trip? as seems the csr is still unknown to if it will open this year from my research, l was meant to of done it the last two years with no luck! Don’t get me wrong it’s good news if it is I’ll be busy re arranging my trip. PS love your video and keeps up the great work!
Just a tip. Modern Disco 2 wheels should work just fine
They won't fit - different stud pattern! Disco 1 however will fit!
Hello Andrew, two observations, if you care to agree/disagree or enlighten me: Firstly, the original washer fluid reservoir was mounted at 4 points, whereas you are reattaching to the firewall using only two of those points, in a way in which it appears to me that the reservoir will be held slightly away from the firewall by the bracket itself, thus with the potential for greater vibration, flex, and damage from the endless corrugation of the Canning Stock route. Secondly, wouldn't it be wise to prime and paint the firewall (and perhaps plug or silicone shut the two unused holes) where you sanded it clean? Inevitably, filling the reservoir will repeatedly wet the area, leading to surface rust and someday....
The same thing happened with the Kingsley Range Rover on carwow where the passenger window just doesn't want to move.
The sticky spot of the windows could be the felt has kinked in the runner and that point
You know you like the content/content creator if you stay and watch how someone opens and closes a window with commentary.
Drilling out rivets. The center is hard steel. The outer is soft metal. Get a bigger drill bit and take off the top of the soft metal. Then centre punch the middle out. Then use a smaller drill bit to take the rest of the soft metal out. This way you wont make your hole bigger.
heh.. chances of a shock failure. I (unfortunately) have Rancho RS 5000 series shocks on my 2800 pound jeep. They're horrific - they're made for trucks that weigh three times what me vehicle weighs. I've had them fitted for the last four years or so simply because I can't afford an alternative. That said, with a solid 85% of my driving over those years being 'on-pavement', I have two blown shocks.
Andrew preaches getting the right shocks for the application, and I couldn't agree more. Everything else in the suspension can be _spot-on,_ but if the shocks are wrong, the whole system fails to work.
Over-shocked or under-shocked, it doesn't matter, you're going to have a failure. It's not 'if', it's 'when'. And in the extreme 'over-shocked' setup like my rig is currently, understanding that it's a 'lightly' constructed vehicle, it can even lead to frame failure.
I would actually be interested if you tested some of these britpart parts fitted to the vehicle and just take spares. Shocks especially.
Britpart shocks would not last the trip. Makes no sense to not fit better ones if I know that.
@@4xoverland I suppose I already know what the outcome would be, I fit terrafirma shocks to my discovery 1 they were excellent at first but within a year degraded in performance significantly.
As said before i never drill a "pop" rivet without a bump stop on the drill shank against the chuck. Lesson learned through an a&e course!!!!.. If you have a lathe and old milk bottles simple drill a blank made melted out of that with the shank size sleeve on to the drill bit avoids so much claret on the paintwork!!!! As for the wheels its good to know the technic of the bead retention. I do wonder if the "design" classic center hub could be removed from the original wheel band and reassembled with a suitable one. Engineering dreams against financial considerations I'm guessing and not a thought of wheel spacers officer