I'm going to install six of these and your tutorial has given me the confidence and knowledge to tackle this. Superbly presented and excellent communication. No music in the background drowning out the speaker, what a joy.
Maybe dig down a foot or so and back fill with concrete. I have quite soft ground, water runs down so I might add concrete to the top 18 inches around the spike.
A day later update. I installed the six spikes following the instructions in the tutorial and so pleased with the results. What did we do before UA-cam. Crooked fence post I guess.
Hi. Thank you for really clear instructions. 2 of our posts ended up a bit turned compared to the fence line, so we attached the cut off long piece of pole and 2 long screws attached to the new pole inserted into the spike to turn the spike a bit and bring it true to the fence line.
I live in NC, USA. The red clay here can get like cement. I have used these before. Now starting a new project that needs 8-of these. To simplify driving, this time I am either going to use an old 1" x 16" long masonry bit or a 1.5" dia. garden auger to drill a pilot hole in the ground first . By trade I'm a machinist & we most always drill pilot holes to start for larger stuff so I figure if it works on steel a pilot hole should help guide the post holder while driving it in. BWY, GREAT vid !
I live in Charlotte and I have a 4 foot section of rebar for a pilot hole. I plan on tapping in a few inches and then pulling it out over and over again. Also, this will help me check for rocks prior to inserting the spike. Any thoughts?
@@networth9151 One more tip ; be sure to drill about 4" then reverse pull up a bit and repeat , this helps clear debris from auger & pilot hole & saves overworking drill.
As we approach the biggest DIY weekend of the year and busiest A&E weekend, I am grateful for finding this video. Thanks Sheriff; you saved me pain and set me up for success. :)
Thanks. I have a similar job putting in offset fence post support brackets for a leaning timber fence and have never used a sledgehammer so I found your technique quite instructive.
Thank you for this! On maternity leave about to section off our garden for my little one and this is a job I’ve not tackled yet but you explained it really clearly :)
I did 32 of these 10 years ago when building my fence. What we did when we where planting those. One would tap and the other would align it. It becomes a 1 minute job. Never thought of doing this by myself. Great video !
Looks great. Im just about to do this today, wish me luck! ....... Update, sorted! It was a touch tricky to build the fence by myself. I get the bit about the post slightly turning as you hit it, but I think that it doesn't matter whether you are left or right handed, it will turn clockwise or anticlockworse, regardless of the way you hit it. One of mine is a touch too rotated, unfortunately, but the fence looks pretty good, though. Many thanks for this video.
one of the BEST How To vids I've ever seen. Thank you for the tip on the rotation of the post upon swinging ...wouldn't have realized that! Also, thanks for the great sound...really helps! I do need to drive in my post on a slope and worry just a bit if the bottom of bracket will come all the way down to the level of the soil...but I think this is the solution I'm looking for...just building a kids tree fort/ deck extension. THANK YOU
I have found the best way is to start the hole with a length of pipe , knocking it down and wriggling from side to side a bit. Then use that pilot hole for the meatapost spike and give it a few knocks adjusting to plumb as it goes down.
I was having a lot of trouble digging holes. I would always hit a root or a stone. Yet somehow these drive in easily. These literally saved me hours of digging post holes by hand. The twisting is annoying. 1 post would always turn the wrong amount. I had to pry the post up and re-drive it 4 or 5 times to get it strainght and it was still much easier than digging.
Thanks for such clear instructions. I'm not quite getting the rotation right on my spikes. Sometimes they seem to twist and sometimes not... I also wondered when the ground is really hard, and it's difficult to get the spike in, Could I use a "repair spike" instead which is shorter. Or are they harder to drive in the ground?
Depends very much on the state of the ground! If grounds too hard best to manually dig half way down before you start setting the metpost, and backfill and compress ground around it later. Helps to get the the post straight.
Ok, I love the concept. Thank you. What happens when you hit an obstruction? ( don't say move it as the pergola needs to be in a specific location) Can these be concreted in rather than hammered as I have often encountered rocks while attempting to drive fence posts.
Mal Heley Absolutely. If you find rocks and stones you can excavate those, make a hole and then pour a wet concrete mix - the wetter it is the harder it sets - and just set your met post into that. Job done. Thanks for your comment.
The Building Sheriff The wetter it is the harder it sets....Mate your way way way of the mark the wetter it is the more the concrete leaches into the surrounding ground..
Hello, thanks for this, really helpful. Do you think I can use these for decking posts too? It's not a huge area, but it's raised; about 3 foot from the ground and the side beams would also be attached to two outside walls. Any advice about using these instead of concreting the posts in? Thank you. Niki
something like installing fence posts, it is important to keep them plumb, if you have an issue with missing, it's because you're not aiming first, which in some instances it's better to make taps, like when you're too close to something you don't want to hit, but still aiming the hammer first helps.
THANK YOU for this video!!! l am replacing my fence by re using the 4x4 post. This will save me so much time and money. And comments welcome l was planning to plumb in dry concrete then wet the concrete to harden.
@@mossy723 I don't think it would sag if the fence is 4 to 5 feet high, I have neighbours who had them, and they are getting very popular, but your comments alarms me so I will do more research ..thanks for taking the time
Hesham El Garawany Maybe 4 feet with 4 foot sections, but I’m speaking from experience with a 6 foot with 6 foot sections. Had to take it apart after 3 years it sagged so bad. With the new Rapid Post quick setting concrete the hardest part about the fence is digging. Once it’s done it’s done.
Godsend mate, I got a job to do for a man that wants a handrail aside garden steps and the surface is flagstones that are not sturdy enough to hold an anchor for a free standing post . That metpost is going to save a world of donkey work.
The seating of these metposts was very helpful. However,I'm making a short fence where I'll be using 4 of these metal posts. How do make these posts line up parallel with each other? ie, if I get behind the first post, I want to look down the fence line and see only the first post, as it is so perfectly aligned with the other 3 post, that it hides them. Hope that made sense.
Many thanks for posting this video. Great tutorial! Now I just need to unmount one anchor and do the rest as you are showing, but looks like you saved me from failing drastically ;) cheers! Greetings from Poland!
Very good advice. My problem is stony ground and I mean stony. Half way down my metpost got stuck. I don’t see any other solution other than pulling it back out and driving some kind of long chisel into the ground to break up the stone.
Thanks, really clear and easy to follow. Can these spikes be used to reinforce an existing, rotten-bottomed post? If so, how do you get them in underneath? Tip on shooting video like a pro, avoid seeing tripod and mic wire in shot and shoot close ups rather than cropping :-)
Edward Cave Thanks Edward. Unfortunately you would have to dig out the old post foundations. In this case you’re probably better off just putting in a post with a concrete base. Thanks for the shooting tips!
So I'm putting in 2 trellis screens, got the idea with the post spike, thanks! Best way to fix the trellis panel to the post to hold it secure without damaging it?
Hi there great tutorial i was going to ask if i use concrete gravel boards and buy the clips that attach them to the posts how does that work if the metal is above ground so obviously it won't screw to the post ? Or would that only work with digging holes and concreting them in and having the wood exposed to screw the fixtures on?. Im definitely using spikes though so would i have to use wood gravel boards?
Additional tip: If the post doesn't stand perfectly vertical you can wedge something solid between the base of the post and the holder part of the spike on one side.
Great tips, running a sledge with your hand so close to the hammerhead is a great way to smash your fingers to where you will only be able to play two keys at a time on the piano.
That made it look very easy (mine are for a big wooden house sign). I think the biggest problem for me wil be London clay as hard as rock an all that looking easy sledgehammering is going to be very hard, never mind that I have a sign which is much shorter wood on one side but at least i now feel there is a chance I can get it into the ground unless it proves too hard and the old ones won't come out from near by so knowing my luck there will be a load of concrete near there too from the old ones.
Building a wooden cabin on the side of my caravan. Ground quite hard as its dry and it only rains a few days of the year. Is it better to use these than concreting the wooden posts into the ground?
Thanks for this video! I was about to do some fencing with anchors in concrete. I wonder if there's any appreciable difference between the strength of that method compared to this one, because metposts seem a whole lot easier.
Thanks. Done right there shouldn’t be much difference. Concrete will always be longer lasting however you have to weigh up that small advantage against the ease of using the metpost.
I have 8 inches to go. Should I wet the ground more to be able to pound in better? End up damaging the post too. Any thought on how to remove that? It’s stuck in there good.
Use a 1 metre long 8mm diameter threaded rod to punch a centre pilot hole before you start. Keep pulling it back out as you you’re tapping it down. This way you’ll know if the way is clear to drive the spike.
@@buildingsheriff Thank you, I may need it as its behind a pond and on a slope, I was intending on using 5.0 x 90mm forge fast screws for the rails and 3.5 x 50mm for the feather edge, in your expert opinion is that ok ? Many Thanks :)
Just came across this video. I've got some of these that are 75cm/30 inches. I am basically making a screen, by putting some posts in the ground (around 1.5m tall is the goal, possibly 1.8m) and attaching some steel mesh as a trellis. Will also be attaching a pedestrian gate between teo 1.8m posts (as this whole thing is to block off part of the garden for the dog). Will these work do you think? Its a different brand but the same concept. I'm a beginner DIYer and also want the option of removing the screen later on if I want to. Just want to make sure they will be sufficiently sturdy?
Hello..no idea what I am doing but will have a go! I need a hammock post 4x4 and other end will be from a wall. This seems like a good idea? Will want to take post in and out..as needed. Would this hold it?
Hi Sally. This will hold it. However getting the post out may be tricky. Try to get the met posts that have the tightening bolts. You’ll need to use hundred millimetre posts as the 75 mm posts
Hi Sally. This will hold it. However getting the post out may be tricky. Try to get the met posts that have the tightening bolts. You’ll need to use hundred millimetre posts as the 75 mm posts
Hi, I'm looking to make a raised multi level deck (1m and 1.5m high platforms) as a childrens play area and will need to support a small playhouse as well. Would it be better to use one of these fence spikes or concrete? Which is generally more secure?
Hi. Both will work but concrete is always more secure. If the post is tall, you want to watch out for lateral movement and make sure that for an 8 foot post for example it needs to be 2 foot in the ground and 6 foot in the air. That’s the kind of ratio. Good luck with the project!
I would use longer spikes,the longer the better...also you have to do this as you go along instaling the fence panels so not much space when you are next to it...it will never be perfectly straight,but does the job.fast set concrete is a longer lasting option
Did the first of 5 yesterday and had to replace the scrap wood a few times, as it split, splintered and generally got crushed into the box at the top of the spike. Then of course I couldn’t remove it. I was astonished when you pulled yours out at the end and had no real damage. I’m using a 12 pound sledge. What am I doing wrong? (I eventually did get the spike all the way in, so I don’t think I hit an obstruction.)
how do you square it off with another post ? i.e straight line .. use plumbline? .. do you measure between posts the length of the panel in between or fix the panel and then install another post?...
I hate this things! Next door neighbour has used them many years ago for their DIY bodged fencing, it's leaning onto my side & when on a windy day looks like it's going to go over & collapse 😂 good job they have seen my new fencing with concrete posts much more sturdier... So I'm doing theirs soon using the same method! 9ft concrete posts solid...
What would you recommend for anchoring a pergola? I don't want to cement in as I'd like the option to take with me since I rent. I stupidly didn't think of anchoring when I bought the kit. I was thinking to secure it to the fence so those posts help but no clue anymore what to do.
Dennis Santos I don’t really think so, Dennis. Personally I use a 5’ post with 2’ of that sunk into concrete. It’s simpler than it seems. Dig your hole, place the post in the hole and choc it vertical and plumb with bricks and then mix up a really wet ballast and cement mix (4:1) and pour in. A wheelbarrow is ideal for this. Remember, the wetter the mix the harder it will set. Best.
Similar product, but would a 45mm post word with a 50mm anchor? As in would the anchor bolt up snuggly enough around a post 5mm smaller than the internal dimension? Cheers!
The best thing to do in this case is to use something that doesn't compress to pack out the difference. I use slate. Man-made slates are cheap and easy to break and size. You can buy plastic spacers called 'backpacks' that come in a variety of sizes also. Thanks for watching!
Great demo, thank you. I was going to drive mine flush with the soil, so, mistake averted. Yeeee Haaa Sheriff! Also, can I ask for further suggestion, as my post (3x3) will not be in the support all the time (will remove occasionally), can you suggest how I would both disguise the top of the support and prevent it from being a tripping hazard? Thanks V much in advance.
I need to fit 3 posts i the existing holes (it was the only place I could it them due to overspill pipes as my garden backs onto a stream)I’ve already dug them out but I’m considering using spikes with postcrete so I can dismantle and change them if I need to as opposed to having to dig them out again, I’d appreciate any advice? Thanks in advance
K F Spikes with post-Crete is a very good idea. Make sure you leave the top of the spikes proud that you can access the bolts but otherwise that’s a great idea.
![How to repair a fence post [Cheap fence fix!!!] Handyman fix (AMAZON LINK)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/OaR_2mK_bwg/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm going to install six of these and your tutorial has given me the confidence and knowledge to tackle this. Superbly presented and excellent communication. No music in the background drowning out the speaker, what a joy.
Thank you so much. Good luck with your project.
Maybe dig down a foot or so and back fill with concrete. I have quite soft ground, water runs down so I might add concrete to the top 18 inches around the spike.
A day later update. I installed the six spikes following the instructions in the tutorial and so pleased with the results. What did we do before UA-cam. Crooked fence post I guess.
Hi. Thank you for really clear instructions. 2 of our posts ended up a bit turned compared to the fence line, so we attached the cut off long piece of pole and 2 long screws attached to the new pole inserted into the spike to turn the spike a bit and bring it true to the fence line.
I really like how you explain DIYers in plain language without fancy music or promotions. Great video. keep on truckin !
… brilliant! By far the easiest clear fast and effective advice on this - and I have looked at sooo many - thanks !
I live in NC, USA. The red clay here can get like cement. I have used these before. Now starting a new project that needs 8-of these. To simplify driving, this time I am either going to use an old 1" x 16" long masonry bit or a 1.5" dia. garden auger to drill a pilot hole in the ground first . By trade I'm a machinist & we most always drill pilot holes to start for larger stuff so I figure if it works on steel a pilot hole should help guide the post holder while driving it in. BWY, GREAT vid !
I live in Charlotte and I have a 4 foot section of rebar for a pilot hole. I plan on tapping in a few inches and then pulling it out over and over again. Also, this will help me check for rocks prior to inserting the spike. Any thoughts?
@@networth9151 One more tip ; be sure to drill about 4" then reverse pull up a bit and repeat , this helps clear debris from auger & pilot hole & saves overworking drill.
It feels like you have a scientific mindset (limiting movement uncertainty, gravity doing the work, etc). Subscribed!
As we approach the biggest DIY weekend of the year and busiest A&E weekend, I am grateful for finding this video. Thanks Sheriff; you saved me pain and set me up for success. :)
It is so nice to find simple, brief instructions, just with the absolutely nessesary piece of information. Cheers mate!
I guess I am quite randomly asking but do anybody know a good website to stream newly released tv shows online?
@Paul Edison Try flixzone. You can find it on google :)
@Alfredo Conner Yup, I have been using FlixZone for years myself :)
@Alfredo Conner Thanks, signed up and it seems like a nice service :D I really appreciate it!!
@Paul Edison Glad I could help =)
Thanks. I have a similar job putting in offset fence post support brackets for a leaning timber fence and have never used a sledgehammer so I found your technique quite instructive.
Thank you for this! On maternity leave about to section off our garden for my little one and this is a job I’ve not tackled yet but you explained it really clearly :)
Aaah. Congratulations! And good luck!
I did 32 of these 10 years ago when building my fence. What we did when we where planting those. One would tap and the other would align it. It becomes a 1 minute job. Never thought of doing this by myself. Great video !
Mate this is my project this weekend and your advice has helped sooo much! Thank you.
Good luck!
Thank you for this tutorial. Very helpful. Cheers from NYC.
MUCH easier than trying to insert a large wooden post into the earth AND it won't rot away. Great video, thx!
Oh they do, and then they’re an absolute flippin nightmare to remove! Awful things. Far better to dig a hole and use post fix
The magic of the internet. I don't even know how I got here but this is just what I needed to know. Thank you.
Looks great. Im just about to do this today, wish me luck! .......
Update, sorted! It was a touch tricky to build the fence by myself. I get the bit about the post slightly turning as you hit it, but I think that it doesn't matter whether you are left or right handed, it will turn clockwise or anticlockworse, regardless of the way you hit it. One of mine is a touch too rotated, unfortunately, but the fence looks pretty good, though. Many thanks for this video.
Good luck!
one of the BEST How To vids I've ever seen. Thank you for the tip on the rotation of the post upon swinging ...wouldn't have realized that! Also, thanks for the great sound...really helps! I do need to drive in my post on a slope and worry just a bit if the bottom of bracket will come all the way down to the level of the soil...but I think this is the solution I'm looking for...just building a kids tree fort/ deck extension. THANK YOU
Thanks for watching. Good luck with the fort!
Excellent video, Sheriff! I'll be replacing my mailbox and this definitely helps 👍🏻👍🏻
Great tip about the spike rotating as you drive it in 👍
Thank you for the tutorial, took the nervousness from me starting ny project! Got it done like a breeze :)
If you used met posts it will probably fall down in a breeze too lol
I have found the best way is to start the hole with a length of pipe , knocking it down and wriggling from side to side a bit. Then use that pilot hole for the meatapost spike and give it a few knocks adjusting to plumb as it goes down.
Also the solid moulded rubber tool that is designed for exactly this purpose is far better than an off cut of timber
Really helpful, thanks. Would be good to see how you set out for the next post as I am planning to use fence panels.
I was having a lot of trouble digging holes. I would always hit a root or a stone. Yet somehow these drive in easily. These literally saved me hours of digging post holes by hand. The twisting is annoying. 1 post would always turn the wrong amount. I had to pry the post up and re-drive it 4 or 5 times to get it strainght and it was still much easier than digging.
Thanks for such clear instructions. I'm not quite getting the rotation right on my spikes. Sometimes they seem to twist and sometimes not... I also wondered when the ground is really hard, and it's difficult to get the spike in, Could I use a "repair spike" instead which is shorter. Or are they harder to drive in the ground?
@@mirjamjohansson845 a repair spike will work on posts under 4 feet.
Depends very much on the state of the ground! If grounds too hard best to manually dig half way down before you start setting the metpost, and backfill and compress ground around it later. Helps to get the the post straight.
The most informative post spike video.
Ok, I love the concept. Thank you. What happens when you hit an obstruction? ( don't say move it as the pergola needs to be in a specific location) Can these be concreted in rather than hammered as I have often encountered rocks while attempting to drive fence posts.
Mal Heley Absolutely. If you find rocks and stones you can excavate those, make a hole and then pour a wet concrete mix - the wetter it is the harder it sets - and just set your met post into that. Job done. Thanks for your comment.
The Building Sheriff The wetter it is the harder it sets....Mate your way way way of the mark the wetter it is the more the concrete leaches into the surrounding ground..
Wow you are an absolute master teacher. Every detail carefully explained. I need to do only 1 and I had no idea where to start!
Very kind, Carol. Thank you.
Thank you for this. I’m a women in my 30’s and this answers all my questions. I’m going to try this. Thanks
Have fun!
Hello, thanks for this, really helpful. Do you think I can use these for decking posts too? It's not a huge area, but it's raised; about 3 foot from the ground and the side beams would also be attached to two outside walls. Any advice about using these instead of concreting the posts in? Thank you. Niki
Hi Niki. Yes. These are perfect for decking posts!
@@buildingsheriff Brilliant, thanks for speedy reply.
I like that trick of yours, turning it one 8th of a turn before hitting it.
It's little things like that, that you pick up from experience.
Mike Thanks, Mike!
If you have the luxury of being able to walk all round the post, would it be equally effective to rotate your own position?
I also like the trick but at 4:01...
👁 👁
👄 HEY - YOU'RE TWISTING IT!!!
something like installing fence posts, it is important to keep them plumb, if you have an issue with missing, it's because you're not aiming first, which in some instances it's better to make taps, like when you're too close to something you don't want to hit, but still aiming the hammer first helps.
Spot on, by eye. You also need to get your level on the fence post, more than half way up.
THANK YOU for this video!!!
l am replacing my fence by
re using the 4x4 post. This will save me so much time and money.
And comments welcome
l was planning to plumb in dry concrete then wet the concrete to harden.
I wouldn’t waste your money on these met posts. Always work loose in the wind and you end up concreting in to fix firmly.
You will have a fence that sags in 3 years, guaranteed
@@mossy723 I don't think it would sag if the fence is 4 to 5 feet high, I have neighbours who had them, and they are getting very popular, but your comments alarms me so I will do more research ..thanks for taking the time
Hesham El Garawany
Maybe 4 feet with 4 foot sections, but I’m speaking from experience with a 6 foot with 6 foot sections. Had to take it apart after 3 years it sagged so bad. With the new Rapid Post quick setting concrete the hardest part about the fence is digging. Once it’s done it’s done.
@@mossy723 so your only issue with this method is if you don't use concrete ?
Cheers mate, it worked a treat. Didn't swear either.
Appreciate the tips. Question? Where can I fine them. And how much they cost ? Thank u sir
Hi. I'm about to put a fence up in my garden for the first time in my life. You just explained I to me nicely. Thank you
Don’t use a metpost, never get it straight. Do it properly, hole and fence post mix.
Godsend mate, I got a job to do for a man that wants a handrail aside garden steps and the surface is flagstones that are not sturdy enough to hold an anchor for a free standing post . That metpost is going to save a world of donkey work.
Just wanted to say I've subscribed. Your approach is not patronising and very clear and helpful. Thank you
Thanks! I really appreciate it.
The seating of these metposts was very helpful. However,I'm making a short fence where I'll be using 4 of these metal posts. How do make these posts line up parallel with each other? ie, if I get behind the first post, I want to look down the fence line and see only the first post, as it is so perfectly aligned with the other 3 post, that it hides them. Hope that made sense.
Many thanks for posting this video. Great tutorial! Now I just need to unmount one anchor and do the rest as you are showing, but looks like you saved me from failing drastically ;) cheers! Greetings from Poland!
bateristardo I’m glad you it was useful! Thanks for watching.
Very good advice. My problem is stony ground and I mean stony. Half way down my metpost got stuck. I don’t see any other solution other than pulling it back out and driving some kind of long chisel into the ground to break up the stone.
Thanks, really clear and easy to follow. Can these spikes be used to reinforce an existing, rotten-bottomed post? If so, how do you get them in underneath? Tip on shooting video like a pro, avoid seeing tripod and mic wire in shot and shoot close ups rather than cropping :-)
Edward Cave Thanks Edward. Unfortunately you would have to dig out the old post foundations. In this case you’re probably better off just putting in a post with a concrete base. Thanks for the shooting tips!
Thanks for the video. How would I then install gravel boards?
So I'm putting in 2 trellis screens, got the idea with the post spike, thanks! Best way to fix the trellis panel to the post to hold it secure without damaging it?
Michubes you can get small galvanised fence clips.
Excellent Video. That has given me the confidence to have a go myself!
Good luck, Peter!
Yes, done it this way, turned out nicely.
Hi there great tutorial i was going to ask if i use concrete gravel boards and buy the clips that attach them to the posts how does that work if the metal is above ground so obviously it won't screw to the post ? Or would that only work with digging holes and concreting them in and having the wood exposed to screw the fixtures on?. Im definitely using spikes though so would i have to use wood gravel boards?
Mmm. Interesting question. Ideally you’d knock the spikes in so they are flush with the ground if you want to use those clips.
@@buildingsheriff I suppose I could use loctite epoxy metal concrete glue lol. Once up it stays that way :)
Additional tip: If the post doesn't stand perfectly vertical you can wedge something solid between the base of the post and the holder part of the spike on one side.
Great tips, running a sledge with your hand so close to the hammerhead is a great way to smash your fingers to where you will only be able to play two keys at a time on the piano.
That made it look very easy (mine are for a big wooden house sign). I think the biggest problem for me wil be London clay as hard as rock an all that looking easy sledgehammering is going to be very hard, never mind that I have a sign which is much shorter wood on one side but at least i now feel there is a chance I can get it into the ground unless it proves too hard and the old ones won't come out from near by so knowing my luck there will be a load of concrete near there too from the old ones.
Thank you for the post, really clear and well explained!
😁"thank you for the post" like what you did there
Using a longer off cut with a drive all metal post knocker works good
Should I worry about gas or water pipes below ground? Or are these usually much lower than these fence spikes can reach?
That is a possibility. They are normally at least a foot underground. You would need to check your house plans.
Thank you for putting this video up. Here goes!
Jeff France My pleasure, Jeff.
I'm doing this tomorrow, thanks for the guidance Sheriff.
Building a wooden cabin on the side of my caravan. Ground quite hard as its dry and it only rains a few days of the year. Is it better to use these than concreting the wooden posts into the ground?
WELL DONE! LIKE A PRO! LIKE A MAN!
Thanks for this video! I was about to do some fencing with anchors in concrete. I wonder if there's any appreciable difference between the strength of that method compared to this one, because metposts seem a whole lot easier.
Thanks. Done right there shouldn’t be much difference. Concrete will always be longer lasting however you have to weigh up that small advantage against the ease of using the metpost.
I have 8 inches to go. Should I wet the ground more to be able to pound in better? End up damaging the post too. Any thought on how to remove that? It’s stuck in there good.
Man, you've hit a rock/stone. Try wetting but you will know if it's hit something solid because the sound will be different when you hit.
Use a 1 metre long 8mm diameter threaded rod to punch a centre pilot hole before you start. Keep pulling it back out as you you’re tapping it down. This way you’ll know if the way is clear to drive the spike.
Thank you for this calm, authoritative and informative video. Now, all I need is a sledge hammer.
Love it! Thanks.
I used a 4ib lump hammer. Did the job very nicely.
Awesome, great tutorial, thanks for sharing, I have 7 to do soon and I will use your advice :)
Rainingmonkfish Good luck!
@@buildingsheriff Thank you, I may need it as its behind a pond and on a slope, I was intending on using 5.0 x 90mm forge fast screws for the rails and 3.5 x 50mm for the feather edge, in your expert opinion is that ok ? Many Thanks :)
Rainingmonkfish That sounds great. I hope the rain holds off!
Hi. Can you use these spike for concrete posts?
Doing posts in 🇨🇦. Nice confirmed some questions. nicely done
CanuckTony Thanks, Tony!
Just came across this video. I've got some of these that are 75cm/30 inches. I am basically making a screen, by putting some posts in the ground (around 1.5m tall is the goal, possibly 1.8m) and attaching some steel mesh as a trellis. Will also be attaching a pedestrian gate between teo 1.8m posts (as this whole thing is to block off part of the garden for the dog). Will these work do you think? Its a different brand but the same concept. I'm a beginner DIYer and also want the option of removing the screen later on if I want to. Just want to make sure they will be sufficiently sturdy?
Hi. Yes, with those posts it will be sturdy enough. Cheers.
Boom, thank you for the tutorial. Much appreciated!
Brian Hartman my pleasure Brian
Instead of twisting the spike to off set, if you alternate sides with sledge hammer will it have go in straight instead of off setting?
Good thinking. It should.
You helped me lot! Grts from Belgium. Ps I miss Cornwall 😢
Love Cornwall!
Thank you and it looks easy
Great guide mate - top tips in there and really well explained 👍🏻
Hello..no idea what I am doing but will have a go! I need a hammock post 4x4 and other end will be from a wall. This seems like a good idea? Will want to take post in and out..as needed. Would this hold it?
Hi Sally. This will hold it. However getting the post out may be tricky. Try to get the met posts that have the tightening bolts. You’ll need to use hundred millimetre posts as the 75 mm posts
Hi Sally. This will hold it. However getting the post out may be tricky. Try to get the met posts that have the tightening bolts. You’ll need to use hundred millimetre posts as the 75 mm posts
…will bend
@@buildingsheriff good to hear it should work. So I will need to ask for 100mm fence spikes to hold a 100m post?Sorry if sounds obvious!
@@sallyvaughan1231 yes. Or 4 inch posts and spikes in old money 👍
Hi, I'm looking to make a raised multi level deck (1m and 1.5m high platforms) as a childrens play area and will need to support a small playhouse as well. Would it be better to use one of these fence spikes or concrete? Which is generally more secure?
Hi. Both will work but concrete is always more secure. If the post is tall, you want to watch out for lateral movement and make sure that for an 8 foot post for example it needs to be 2 foot in the ground and 6 foot in the air. That’s the kind of ratio. Good luck with the project!
I don't have sledge hammer and the ground is made of clay, I wonder is mallet would be enough to hammer this in?
The met posts are ok as there quick But , should you hit a large stone or worse a thick root then you have problems. Nice video though, good tips
I would use longer spikes,the longer the better...also you have to do this as you go along instaling the fence panels so not much space when you are next to it...it will never be perfectly straight,but does the job.fast set concrete is a longer lasting option
Sure, but this always depends on the state of the ground. Thanks for your input.
Great video, Quick question, I have quite hard soil/ground, is it OK to predill a pilot hole, or does that reduce the effectiveness of the hold?
We used a pneumatic hammer. Very had clay soil
I usually pour water in the hole to soften the dirt a bit.
Excellent Video, thank you sir!
My pleasure, Daniel.
Good Video, straight forward, only thing missing is underground rocks and roots. They always throw me off .
William Bonnett I got lucky this time!
This is my concern. I live in a plot with a fair bit of flint as well as general building debris. What should I do if a flint throws me off plumb?
Did the first of 5 yesterday and had to replace the scrap wood a few times, as it split, splintered and generally got crushed into the box at the top of the spike. Then of course I couldn’t remove it. I was astonished when you pulled yours out at the end and had no real damage. I’m using a 12 pound sledge. What am I doing wrong? (I eventually did get the spike all the way in, so I don’t think I hit an obstruction.)
Your ground must be pretty hard.
You saved my day ... brilliant ...thank you
If the post doesn't end up as plumb as you want it, what about adding shims inside the post bracket, between the post and the wall of the bracket?
Yes, a great idea. One could also trim a side of the post where it enters the metpost and then shim the back side to make it vertical.
how do you square it off with another post ? i.e straight line .. use plumbline? .. do you measure between posts the length of the panel in between or fix the panel and then install another post?...
Either plumb using a level or install another panel and use that.
Can you set these spikes in concrete for more stability, to secure posts that are not quite long enough?
Yes, definitely.
Hi, fantastic video. What's the weight of your sledgehammer?
Thanks! It's a 13lb sledge. I hope your project goes well!
I hate this things! Next door neighbour has used them many years ago for their DIY bodged fencing, it's leaning onto my side & when on a windy day looks like it's going to go over & collapse 😂 good job they have seen my new fencing with concrete posts much more sturdier... So I'm doing theirs soon using the same method! 9ft concrete posts solid...
Wooden posts will shrink as they dry out then swell in the damp which ends up in the posts floppy and panels moving in the wind.
You are amazing lots of information I got
Thank you
Thanks, great tips and really well explained, have subscribed 😀
What would you recommend for anchoring a pergola? I don't want to cement in as I'd like the option to take with me since I rent. I stupidly didn't think of anchoring when I bought the kit. I was thinking to secure it to the fence so those posts help but no clue anymore what to do.
Sabine Findalen hi Sabine. What is the ground you are putting the pergola onto? Is it a solid base or is it turf?
Iv got a loose fence post can I reinforce it with one of these spikes? Until I can afford to get my fence fixed in the summer?
Yes, of course.
@The Building Sheriff Will I not hit the concrete under the post?
Well done: right to the point!
Great video. Are these strong enough to hold up a waist-high, freestanding, 4x4 timber post for a metal garden gate?
Dennis Santos I don’t really think so, Dennis. Personally I use a 5’ post with 2’ of that sunk into concrete. It’s simpler than it seems. Dig your hole, place the post in the hole and choc it vertical and plumb with bricks and then mix up a really wet ballast and cement mix (4:1) and pour in. A wheelbarrow is ideal for this. Remember, the wetter the mix the harder it will set. Best.
Great video and great explanation!
Similar product, but would a 45mm post word with a 50mm anchor? As in would the anchor bolt up snuggly enough around a post 5mm smaller than the internal dimension? Cheers!
The best thing to do in this case is to use something that doesn't compress to pack out the difference. I use slate. Man-made slates are cheap and easy to break and size. You can buy plastic spacers called 'backpacks' that come in a variety of sizes also. Thanks for watching!
Excellent! 👍
Great demo, thank you. I was going to drive mine flush with the soil, so, mistake averted. Yeeee Haaa Sheriff!
Also, can I ask for further suggestion, as my post (3x3) will not be in the support all the time (will remove occasionally), can you suggest how I would both disguise the top of the support and prevent it from being a tripping hazard? Thanks V much in advance.
plantings around the post would do it, include a tall pot with the bottom cut out, filled with soil and a plant/plants. No one will know ...
Super-useful - thanks !
Any tips for getting a cut off out that gets stuck?
“Spot on” as he holds the level away from the spike and pulls the post level! 😂
Great tutorial. Thanks!
Screwball McAdams My pleasure, Screwball!
Right to the point, thank you soo much
I need to fit 3 posts i the existing holes (it was the only place I could it them due to overspill pipes as my garden backs onto a stream)I’ve already dug them out but I’m considering using spikes with postcrete so I can dismantle and change them if I need to as opposed to having to dig them out again, I’d appreciate any advice?
Thanks in advance
K F Spikes with post-Crete is a very good idea. Make sure you leave the top of the spikes proud that you can access the bolts but otherwise that’s a great idea.