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With a 200-year-old farmhouse covered with spruce clapboards, I am all too familiar with the process, especially the rot that happens on the lowest 2 or 3 clapboards. I actually learned something I had not figured out from your video, to use a sawzall to saw off nails that protrude under the good clapboards! Never thought of that. I painstakingly pry the clapboards up to free the ones that I need to replace, but sometimes the nails are tough to get out and I end up splitting the good clapboard using the pry bar and end up having to replace more than I intended. I do like to put caulking on the ends of any wood down by the drip edge, and I have also concluded that if the drip edge is level it can cause water to drain inward or remain on the drip edge, spurring more rot. So I like to slightly elevate the clapboard that will be on the drip edge so it is not flush and the bottom can dry out, and have also tried raising the drip edge maybe an 8th of an inch or so, and then bending the drip edge down so it has a slight slope and any water will drip off. Northern climes, with driving rains and tough climate, are harsh and I totally understand why folks are building houses wrapped in metal siding with some cedar accent trim. The reason I came here today to watch this is that my hardware store and the lumber yard do not carry galvanized clapboard nails like the ones on my house! Go figure... sign of the times? I may have to use the 1 1/2 inch nails you are using. Thanks for the video!
Unlike a cedar board, where you can buy it primed on all sides, that is not the case with this type of masonite siding material. The back is not primed/sealed. My concern would be that moisture could become trapped if you sealed the cut ends of the boards.
The location of your the cord on your chop saw was making me nervous. Why not route it toward the back of the saw. Can I use screws instead of nails? Do you caulk the nail heads?
Can fiber cement be removed this same way? I need to remove some broke strips around the bottom of my house. Also, mine has no drip edge. And no flashing behind the joints. But there is homewrap.
I have not done it on Fiber cement board, however I don't see why you can't. It is just a matter of going gently and slowly when loosening up the nails.
I just did this with James Hardie fiberboard siding. Same problem: No drip edge, no flashing, no sealant... really crummy construction. One thing I would recommend is to not put the siding so close to the drip edge. I would leave a quarter inch gap between the bottom piece of siding and the drip edge. You'll also want to use something like OSI's QuadMax sealant for the ends, corners, and any other joints. Do not use caulk! It is not the same thing as a sealant. Good luck! *edit* lol this was a year ago that I'm replying to. Anyway, hope it went well!
For more helpful videos like this please consider supporting my channel by either subscribing to it or giving a Super Thanks. Your support helps to enable me to both create more content and improve the quality of it, via the acquisition of new camera equipment, editing software and purchasing subscriptions to quality royalty-free music.
Question. I need to replace 1/4" pine bevel siding. I can find siding with a 1/2" or 3/4" wood bevel siding. 1/4" bevel siding? Thanks.
With a 200-year-old farmhouse covered with spruce clapboards, I am all too familiar with the process, especially the rot that happens on the lowest 2 or 3 clapboards. I actually learned something I had not figured out from your video, to use a sawzall to saw off nails that protrude under the good clapboards! Never thought of that. I painstakingly pry the clapboards up to free the ones that I need to replace, but sometimes the nails are tough to get out and I end up splitting the good clapboard using the pry bar and end up having to replace more than I intended. I do like to put caulking on the ends of any wood down by the drip edge, and I have also concluded that if the drip edge is level it can cause water to drain inward or remain on the drip edge, spurring more rot. So I like to slightly elevate the clapboard that will be on the drip edge so it is not flush and the bottom can dry out, and have also tried raising the drip edge maybe an 8th of an inch or so, and then bending the drip edge down so it has a slight slope and any water will drip off. Northern climes, with driving rains and tough climate, are harsh and I totally understand why folks are building houses wrapped in metal siding with some cedar accent trim.
The reason I came here today to watch this is that my hardware store and the lumber yard do not carry galvanized clapboard nails like the ones on my house! Go figure... sign of the times? I may have to use the 1 1/2 inch nails you are using. Thanks for the video!
Thank you! This was the best video I’ve found to explain this.
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Would it be a good idea to countersink the nails slightly and then seal it? I also agree that sealing the ends of the board would be a good idea.
Unlike a cedar board, where you can buy it primed on all sides, that is not the case with this type of masonite siding material. The back is not primed/sealed. My concern would be that moisture could become trapped if you sealed the cut ends of the boards.
Thank you for your video and talk through. You make it look so easy!
I was wondering.....Did you by chance paint your ends of the new board prior to installation? Also why is the board laying directly on the drip edge?
Great job bud👍
The location of your the cord on your chop saw was making me nervous. Why not route it toward the back of the saw. Can I use screws instead of nails? Do you caulk the nail heads?
No use nails and don't calk them. Moisture could get trapped under the nail heads and cause the masonite board to swell.
Nice job and explanation!
Awesome instructional video. Thanks so much!
Very professional, thank you!
You're very welcome!
Can you replace wood siding in a small area with Masonite siding in that small area
Yes, not an issue doing so. It just may look a little different in regards to texture of the siding surface.
Can fiber cement be removed this same way? I need to remove some broke strips around the bottom of my house. Also, mine has no drip edge. And no flashing behind the joints. But there is homewrap.
I have not done it on Fiber cement board, however I don't see why you can't. It is just a matter of going gently and slowly when loosening up the nails.
I just did this with James Hardie fiberboard siding. Same problem: No drip edge, no flashing, no sealant... really crummy construction. One thing I would recommend is to not put the siding so close to the drip edge. I would leave a quarter inch gap between the bottom piece of siding and the drip edge. You'll also want to use something like OSI's QuadMax sealant for the ends, corners, and any other joints. Do not use caulk! It is not the same thing as a sealant. Good luck!
*edit* lol this was a year ago that I'm replying to. Anyway, hope it went well!
Great DIY video! Thanks Mark!
what is the name of the type of saw you used after removing the nails with the hammer and pry bar at the beginning?
That's a reciprocating saw. It's almost always called a sawzall because SAWZALL is a brand of reciprocating saw manufactured by Milwaukee Tools.
A Sawzall / reciprocating saw.
Good stuff. I like this video.
Very helpful!! Thanks
Do you caulk the end of clapboards?
Some do some don't. You should however, seal the ends before installing.
Good stuff! Thank you!
Thank you!