Jeep has used both air and e lockers in the rubicon so both style would technically be similar to what came in the rubi depending on if you got a TJ or JK
I prefer an auto locker in the front. When a selectable locker is "locked" it's a spool and doesn't turn as good. A selectable locker in the rear is really nice. I've found that with a locked front, open rear, I rarely need to lock the rear on a lot of trails.
It was a good idea and I had some time! I’ll start filming part 2 tomorrow. Maybe get it posted Friday. The. I have the DIY fender deletes to do among other things.
They typically aren’t as strong and don’t have as nice of a dive ability. So it really just depends on what you are doing with it. For a trail rig only I could see it. But for something you want a nice drive quality in, a selectable provides that. There is also the issue of the electronics with regard to skid control and wheel speed sensor related stuff that some of the newish Jeeps don’t like when you do the auto lockers. So it’s just my experience and opinion to spend the extra $500.
Automatic lockers are generally weaker, and oftentimes have difficulty fully locking the axel, whereas selectable lockers will completely lock the axel and not allow one wheel to spin without the other.
I wouldn't say an auto locker was weaker at all! Detroit and Grizzly lockers are some of the strongest lockers you can get. Most of the major offroad guys run them. Simple and strong.
The hub on it is completely different. That’s why dually wheels look different than single rear wheels. They have an offset on them so they can be used on the rear too. So the hubs on a dual rear wheel set up vehicle will be different. You can of course change them to make it work…
Yea man! No problem. Always good to know more stuff. Help more people. Thanks for the support! And have fun with the ton swap! I’ll be doing another one and have it all very step by step on the UA-cam channel this fall/winter.
Awesome video with lots of useful information. My biggest concern is using older axles. What needs to be done about the ABS sensors on axles that don’t have them?
So the front axle has a tone ring built into the hub. So no issue there. And you can have the rear hubs machined fairly cheaply to fit the same tone ring as the front which is a 60 tooth. The jeep computer is easily adapter to count the 60 tooth and not the factory 58.
glad my cj-7 does not care about tone rings. only thing keeping me from going 1 ton is i have no money. but would rather go with specialty built ford 9 in front and rear. MASSIVE weight savings. and both high pinion.
Because the ford hub has the wheel speed sensor already in it. And it is 8x170. I like to keep parts easily serviceable. So keeping the ford hub factory allows easy replacement. Ot to mention the rear axle of a 14 bolt is 3 inches narrower. So putting 1.5 inch spacer/adapters on it makes it the same width and is easy to then convert the rear 8x6.5 to 8x170. Some re drill the front hubs to 8x6.5 and then Run the spacers in the rear anyway. But by redrilling it…you can’t quickly replace it at a wheeling event.
@@WarPaintOffroad guess I'm partial to the 8x6.5 as that is the same pattern as my truck and trailer so if I need a spare, I have an infinite number of them if need be. 8x6.5 wheels are easy enough to come by and it's not that bad redrilling the front hubs. I'm also running a TJ and don't have to worry about tone rings so that part doesn't bother me.
Do they Allow CJ's on the Rubicon any more? I got a 2017 Super Dana 60 and 4.88 is as low as I can get, so may have to Double Box on the Transfer case input.
So your 2017 is just too new. You can’t get gears deep enough. So depending on what trans you have and transfer case…you’ll definitely have to double it up.
I got a question for you maybe you can shine some light on it.... I have a 04 Tj now the front upper control arms are adjustable (Rubicon Express) the bolt holes on the axle side of the control arms are smaller than the bushings bolt holes on the axle... should I drill out the arms to the same hole diameter as the bushings on the axle and use bigger bolts?
So I’m not a tj guy. But, assuming the links are for a tj and weren’t swapped from some other rig…you could. I would call rubicon express and ask them. Maybe that’s a normal thing. But I personally would want the bolt holes in the brackets to match the ends on the links. But again, I’m not a tj guy. I have worked on them, but not with the stock axles. That is usually done in some vehicles (if I’m understanding your question) so they can run cam bolts for caster alignment. They make cam bolt delete plates for them that should fix that issue…assuming that is the issue. But without actually seeing it, it’s hard to know exactly what is happening. I have seen some weird stuff on older vehicles that previous owners have done for whatever the reason. So I think the safest bet would be to call the maker of the part you are installing and start there.
one other question: 2005-2016 super duty axles, If I purchase both front/rear 05-16 axles is best case? Any issues with 05-16 rear super duty axles for JK swap?
Yea. So people use them. But, the 14 bolt is more popular. The problem with the sterling in addition to less support (there is some), is the pinion location. Without a major rear stretch, or relocating the fuel tank it won’t clear the tank when you flex it. The 14 bolt is definitely the better axle. But the sterling will work if you do a fuel cell. Or stretch it A LOT. Some people also dent the corner of the tank in. But that becomes an issue when you are running skids.
Tbh I’m not 100% sure to the exact dollar. But with EVERYTHING including the 3 link long arms, wheels and tires…and me selling my old Dana 44’s, wheels and tires, and control arms…the total out of pocket was 6k (I sold my Dana 44’s and wheel for 6k) That’s for wheels, tires, gears, lockers, trusses, brackets, ram, steering, long arms, brakes, COMPLETELY new bearings and hubs, etc.
Thanks for the support! Yes sir! Central Texas. I’ll be out in Colorado for some wheeling probably next year. Have some trips planned. Colorado is hopefully going to be one of them. Lots of builds coming soon. Starting another jku with a ton swap and leaf spring conversion this fall. Doing a yj buggy, and in a few weeks doing a front axle swap on another rig. So lots to come.
Awesome. Yea I’m south of Austin. But I have been up to Dallas area. All the cities in Texas are so different. It’s kind of crazy. As far as the builds, those are just going to get the channel started. The plan after those is to eventually start doing builds on here and then making some wheeling content with them and after that doing giveaways. Give them to subscribers. So it should be fun. Again, thanks for the support.
Thanks. We will see! This channel is very new. My IG is too. But it’s a few months older than this and grew quick. So we will see what happens here. Either way it’s fun.
Jeep has used both air and e lockers in the rubicon so both style would technically be similar to what came in the rubi depending on if you got a TJ or JK
I prefer an auto locker in the front. When a selectable locker is "locked" it's a spool and doesn't turn as good.
A selectable locker in the rear is really nice. I've found that with a locked front, open rear, I rarely need to lock the rear on a lot of trails.
Well that was quick, I just asked for these videos today lol. Looking forward to the video series. Great info
It was a good idea and I had some time! I’ll start filming part 2 tomorrow. Maybe get it posted Friday. The. I have the DIY fender deletes to do among other things.
I’d like to hear your theory on why no automatic lockers for the front?
They typically aren’t as strong and don’t have as nice of a dive ability. So it really just depends on what you are doing with it. For a trail rig only I could see it. But for something you want a nice drive quality in, a selectable provides that. There is also the issue of the electronics with regard to skid control and wheel speed sensor related stuff that some of the newish Jeeps don’t like when you do the auto lockers. So it’s just my experience and opinion to spend the extra $500.
Automatic lockers are generally weaker, and oftentimes have difficulty fully locking the axel, whereas selectable lockers will completely lock the axel and not allow one wheel to spin without the other.
I wouldn't say an auto locker was weaker at all! Detroit and Grizzly lockers are some of the strongest lockers you can get. Most of the major offroad guys run them. Simple and strong.
I have used both what sucks most about auto lockers up front is trying to turn sometimes
Awesome video, I’ll be following this closely. new subscriber too 🤘🏻✌🏻
Awesome! Thanks for the support!
Great info!!! Thanks for putting this out here.
Thanks for the support! I hope it helps!
What are the differences in the hubs for a front axle on a Ford that had duals?
The hub on it is completely different. That’s why dually wheels look different than single rear wheels. They have an offset on them so they can be used on the rear too. So the hubs on a dual rear wheel set up vehicle will be different. You can of course change them to make it work…
Ok good to know. I’m good with mine but I had no idea. Thanks for pointing that out. I’m sure that could easily be the case without knowing first 👍🏻
Yea man! No problem. Always good to know more stuff. Help more people. Thanks for the support! And have fun with the ton swap! I’ll be doing another one and have it all very step by step on the UA-cam channel this fall/winter.
Awesome video with lots of useful information. My biggest concern is using older axles. What needs to be done about the ABS sensors on axles that don’t have them?
So the front axle has a tone ring built into the hub. So no issue there. And you can have the rear hubs machined fairly cheaply to fit the same tone ring as the front which is a 60 tooth. The jeep computer is easily adapter to count the 60 tooth and not the factory 58.
glad my cj-7 does not care about tone rings.
only thing keeping me from going 1 ton is i have no money. but would rather go with specialty built ford 9 in front and rear. MASSIVE weight savings. and both high pinion.
Dumb question but are you running the dust shield for the brake on the 60? My JY axles dust shield are all bent up.
I am, but they aren’t necessary. I just ran them because they were there and in decent shape. But lots of people don’t run them.
Why would you go with the 8x170 when the 8x6.5 is more common?
Because the ford hub has the wheel speed sensor already in it. And it is 8x170. I like to keep parts easily serviceable. So keeping the ford hub factory allows easy replacement. Ot to mention the rear axle of a 14 bolt is 3 inches narrower. So putting 1.5 inch spacer/adapters on it makes it the same width and is easy to then convert the rear 8x6.5 to 8x170. Some re drill the front hubs to 8x6.5 and then Run the spacers in the rear anyway. But by redrilling it…you can’t quickly replace it at a wheeling event.
@@WarPaintOffroad guess I'm partial to the 8x6.5 as that is the same pattern as my truck and trailer so if I need a spare, I have an infinite number of them if need be. 8x6.5 wheels are easy enough to come by and it's not that bad redrilling the front hubs. I'm also running a TJ and don't have to worry about tone rings so that part doesn't bother me.
Do they Allow CJ's on the Rubicon any more? I got a 2017 Super Dana 60 and 4.88 is as low as I can get, so may have to Double Box on the Transfer case input.
So your 2017 is just too new. You can’t get gears deep enough. So depending on what trans you have and transfer case…you’ll definitely have to double it up.
i have a klune V drive 4-1 ratio. behind my T-18 in front of my dana 300, factory bolting here. located in northern cal.
Do you have any discount codes for any of the products in the video?
Check my website. I have links to companies I work with. There are a few I’m still waiting to update. But codes are there.
I got a question for you maybe you can shine some light on it.... I have a 04 Tj now the front upper control arms are adjustable (Rubicon Express) the bolt holes on the axle side of the control arms are smaller than the bushings bolt holes on the axle... should I drill out the arms to the same hole diameter as the bushings on the axle and use bigger bolts?
So I’m not a tj guy. But, assuming the links are for a tj and weren’t swapped from some other rig…you could. I would call rubicon express and ask them. Maybe that’s a normal thing. But I personally would want the bolt holes in the brackets to match the ends on the links. But again, I’m not a tj guy. I have worked on them, but not with the stock axles.
That is usually done in some vehicles (if I’m understanding your question) so they can run cam bolts for caster alignment. They make cam bolt delete plates for them that should fix that issue…assuming that is the issue. But without actually seeing it, it’s hard to know exactly what is happening. I have seen some weird stuff on older vehicles that previous owners have done for whatever the reason. So I think the safest bet would be to call the maker of the part you are installing and start there.
one other question: 2005-2016 super duty axles, If I purchase both front/rear 05-16 axles is best case? Any issues with 05-16 rear super duty axles for JK swap?
maybe answered my own question as I didn't locate any truss swap kits for the rear super duty axles. most everything is the 14 bolt GM axles
Yea. So people use them. But, the 14 bolt is more popular. The problem with the sterling in addition to less support (there is some), is the pinion location. Without a major rear stretch, or relocating the fuel tank it won’t clear the tank when you flex it. The 14 bolt is definitely the better axle. But the sterling will work if you do a fuel cell. Or stretch it A LOT.
Some people also dent the corner of the tank in. But that becomes an issue when you are running skids.
@@WarPaintOffroad ok, I remember you mentioning this in part 2. Thanks Man.
Of course! Good luck!
What was the total cost to do it yourself?
Tbh I’m not 100% sure to the exact dollar. But with EVERYTHING including the 3 link long arms, wheels and tires…and me selling my old Dana 44’s, wheels and tires, and control arms…the total out of pocket was 6k (I sold my Dana 44’s and wheel for 6k) That’s for wheels, tires, gears, lockers, trusses, brackets, ram, steering, long arms, brakes, COMPLETELY new bearings and hubs, etc.
2009 Jeep Wrangler rubicon's any good the guys got about 117 thousand miles on it and I can pick it up for about 14,000
Just do some research. That jeep has the 3.8 engine which is reliable… it doesn’t make any power. Lots of people still use them though.
Great video. Subscribed. You in Texas?
Thanks for the support! Yes sir! Central Texas. I’ll be out in Colorado for some wheeling probably next year. Have some trips planned. Colorado is hopefully going to be one of them. Lots of builds coming soon. Starting another jku with a ton swap and leaf spring conversion this fall. Doing a yj buggy, and in a few weeks doing a front axle swap on another rig. So lots to come.
@@WarPaintOffroad sweet!! We lived in Fort Worth for a year a little while back. Will be cool to see the builds you have planned!
Awesome. Yea I’m south of Austin. But I have been up to Dallas area. All the cities in Texas are so different. It’s kind of crazy. As far as the builds, those are just going to get the channel started. The plan after those is to eventually start doing builds on here and then making some wheeling content with them and after that doing giveaways. Give them to subscribers. So it should be fun. Again, thanks for the support.
@@WarPaintOffroad nice! Yea Texas is a big place for sure. Sounds like you have big plans for your channel and it will do well! - Geoff
Thanks. We will see! This channel is very new. My IG is too. But it’s a few months older than this and grew quick. So we will see what happens here. Either way it’s fun.
8 X 170mm Yes, that is CONTENT!
Thanks for the support!
99 - 04 are easier, much less prep work