I cleaned the connection where the gauge centre post makes contact with the circuit board and the corresponding board connection as the terminals themselves were pristine. In any event it completely sorted the problem. Excellent tutorial.
great video......I would like to add that when I take a cluster apart, I replace all the bulbs. I also use dielectric compound for all the terminals/connections so I never have to go back in the cluster.....
Great video !!!! This will help to do even as preventative maintenance, thanks ! Replace or install ? Everything he referred to as replace he just reinstalled 😁
+BIMMER ZEIT Thanks! I saw that one already! ;-D About you're Hartge valve cover; is that really for a M20? There're no mounting holes for the intake bracket, are there?!... Keep up the good work!!!!
After removing the gauges, my VDO tacho did not have the small washers for ground contact. I tried installing additional thin washers, but then the whole back part does not sit properly in the front part, temp and fuel gauges seem to hit the front frame round cutouts. Reinstalled without washers and everything is good.
The M7 has NiCd batteries on the printed circuit board and yours does not. Remove the instrument cluster was a nightmare due to the age of the car being 30 years old. Didn't want to break those cables/wires. Done all the cleaning & new NiCd batteries, still have the same problems. * Tach not working * MPG not working * Temperature dial moving like a wiper-blade Any suggestions? Nice & clear video.
+angelisone Just a guess here angelisone but I would look at all your grounds, if you have lights working in your cluster you have some power, but the grounds aren't fully grounded, check where your bundles of wires go thru the firewall...you could have a hot wire shorting to ground (the body) also. is your battery getting weak sometimes? stuff to look for :dirty/rusty connections/ wire missing plastic coating, lights flickering at night when going over bumps....
+danekeeper1 Well, my main battery goes dead after 3 months of not using the car. And 7 months or so, the NiCd batteries go back. I will open the cluster again and check all grounds. You are probably right that they are not fully grounded. Troubleshooting this is no fun, I just don't have much room when all plugs are plugged to cluster. Again, thank you for these suggestions.
In order for your MPG gauge to work, both your speedometer and tachometer need to work. In most cases when a tach isn't working, it's because your tach signal isn't there. Your tach signal comes from either a signal wire on your #6 ignition wire, or one of your 2 crank angle sensors, sometimes both. If you dont have a signal wire wrapped around one of you ignition wires, its going to be a crank angle sensor. On yours, the crank angle sensor is usually on the intake side, where the engine and tranny meet, some models have it at the crank pulley. As far as the temp gauge waving hello to you all the time, apart from this cleaning procedure, I have found re-springing the contacts on the harness end sometimes helps.
After disassembling and replacing battery on e28 cluster, my temp and fuel gauges jump to high and full when ignition is on and stay on full and high when driving, any idea what I did wrong?
I know it's a few years later but I somehow damaged my temperature gauge. Needle hangs lower than where is should. Any way to fix it without having replace the temp gauge?
Is all cool..but looks like mine has third problem...I cleaned I did everything ..still dead.. I putt Gage from e34..yes they don't fit..I makes it fit and plus ground terminal has no nut.. tree pins ...fun...job. So I did is contacted..And what I see ... arrow move to overheat on cold engine..suck ..just waist time and money..Now ..I'm goin check ground if is not working.. I'll run by pass from fuel gauge ground to the temperature gauge ground..
Lets say the temp gauge wire is bad or it has a bad reading on the engine block. Would the fuel and tempature gauge stop working all together? I tried cleaning and tightening the cluster and even tried a whole new cluster from a junk yard and no changes. Any advise is appreciated. Thanks for the video.
i have a fuel gauge that shows full when i fuel to full. but then it drops rapidly when it hit half mark like around 200km. after this, it is no longer accurate and it quickly drops to zero! or below. what is the cause of this problem?
If your car has a saddle style fuel tank, the transfer pump or saddle hose might not be working correctly to fill the side of the tank that the pump pulls from.
@@mikepottle6647 good idea to help me. Mine is a saddle style tank. Let me check. Do you think the transfer hose to the other side is clogged? But I read that the 325 fuel tank has two senders? The reserve ought comes on accurately when fuel is near empty even though the gauge shows empty for a few hundred km. That’s the one warning lamp I use to rely on to refuel.
@@selespeed3 maybe no clogged, but I've seen them break causing this issue. If you pull up your rear seat to gain access to the tops of the fuel tanks, you can check once the two metal plates are removed and lids taken off.
I did exactly as you showed in the video, it worked again but today it failed again. What I didn’t check was if the small ring is on the inside and the big one on the back. I’ll try that tomorrow
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I cleaned the connection where the gauge centre post makes contact with the circuit board and the corresponding board connection as the terminals themselves were pristine. In any event it completely sorted the problem. Excellent tutorial.
How an instructional tutorial should be done. good job!
Thanks for posting - fixed my problem! Had the cluster out anyways - to fix the odometer gears. Thanks again!
great video......I would like to add that when I take a cluster apart, I replace all the bulbs. I also use dielectric compound for all the terminals/connections so I never have to go back in the cluster.....
Thank you Zeit --- Your video was very helpful... I have E30 M3 1989.
Thanks! The nuts on mine were so loose they were missing 😀
Great video !!!! This will help to do even as preventative maintenance, thanks !
Replace or install ?
Everything he referred to as replace he just reinstalled 😁
This is a superb video beautifully presented with valuable information. Thank you very much. .
Excellent video, thank you
Excellent video again!
Thanks Victor! You may also like this short video on polishing the plastic cluster cover: ua-cam.com/video/P6-rAXFv07M/v-deo.html
+BIMMER ZEIT
Thanks! I saw that one already! ;-D
About you're Hartge valve cover; is that really for a M20? There're no mounting holes for the intake bracket, are there?!...
Keep up the good work!!!!
Yep it's an early M20 cover. The early models had a slightly different setup, but you can install it on a later model without the bracket.
After removing the gauges, my VDO tacho did not have the small washers for ground contact. I tried installing additional thin washers, but then the whole back part does not sit properly in the front part, temp and fuel gauges seem to hit the front frame round cutouts. Reinstalled without washers and everything is good.
Well done!
Thanks!
are the lights on instrument cluster a T5 type?
The cluster in this video is for late or early model
?
The M7 has NiCd batteries on the printed circuit board and yours does not.
Remove the instrument cluster was a nightmare due to the age of the car
being 30 years old. Didn't want to break those cables/wires.
Done all the cleaning & new NiCd batteries, still have the same problems.
* Tach not working
* MPG not working
* Temperature dial moving like a wiper-blade
Any suggestions?
Nice & clear video.
+angelisone Just a guess here angelisone but I would look at all your grounds, if you have lights working in your cluster you have some power, but the grounds aren't fully grounded, check where your bundles of wires go thru the firewall...you could have a hot wire shorting to ground (the body) also. is your battery getting weak sometimes? stuff to look for :dirty/rusty connections/ wire missing plastic coating, lights flickering at night when going over bumps....
+danekeeper1 Well, my main battery goes dead after 3 months of not using the car. And 7 months or so, the NiCd batteries go back.
I will open the cluster again and check all grounds. You are probably right that they are not fully grounded. Troubleshooting this is no fun, I just don't have much room when all plugs are plugged to cluster.
Again, thank you for these suggestions.
In order for your MPG gauge to work, both your speedometer and tachometer need to work. In most cases when a tach isn't working, it's because your tach signal isn't there. Your tach signal comes from either a signal wire on your #6 ignition wire, or one of your 2 crank angle sensors, sometimes both. If you dont have a signal wire wrapped around one of you ignition wires, its going to be a crank angle sensor. On yours, the crank angle sensor is usually on the intake side, where the engine and tranny meet, some models have it at the crank pulley.
As far as the temp gauge waving hello to you all the time, apart from this cleaning procedure, I have found re-springing the contacts on the harness end sometimes helps.
After disassembling and replacing battery on e28 cluster, my temp and fuel gauges jump to high and full when ignition is on and stay on full and high when driving, any idea what I did wrong?
I know it's a few years later but I somehow damaged my temperature gauge. Needle hangs lower than where is should. Any way to fix it without having replace the temp gauge?
This cluster is for late model
Is all cool..but looks like mine has third problem...I cleaned I did everything ..still dead.. I putt Gage from e34..yes they don't fit..I makes it fit and plus ground terminal has no nut.. tree pins ...fun...job. So I did is contacted..And what I see ... arrow move to overheat on cold engine..suck ..just waist time and money..Now ..I'm goin check ground if is not working.. I'll run by pass from fuel gauge ground to the temperature gauge ground..
Lets say the temp gauge wire is bad or it has a bad reading on the engine block. Would the fuel and tempature gauge stop working all together? I tried cleaning and tightening the cluster and even tried a whole new cluster from a junk yard and no changes. Any advise is appreciated. Thanks for the video.
Hi, did you solve the problem?
Hallo BIMMER ZEIT is it the same procedure for an E46 Cluster Panel, my E46 temp Gauge is acting strangely... thank you
Harold Villar essentially yes
@@BIMMERZEITT Danke Shön Herr Bimmer As we say it here in Germany!!
i have a fuel gauge that shows full when i fuel to full. but then it drops rapidly when it hit half mark like around 200km. after this, it is no longer accurate and it quickly drops to zero! or below.
what is the cause of this problem?
If your car has a saddle style fuel tank, the transfer pump or saddle hose might not be working correctly to fill the side of the tank that the pump pulls from.
@@mikepottle6647 good idea to help me. Mine is a saddle style tank. Let me check. Do you think the transfer hose to the other side is clogged? But I read that the 325 fuel tank has two senders?
The reserve ought comes on accurately when fuel is near empty even though the gauge shows empty for a few hundred km. That’s the one warning lamp I use to rely on to refuel.
@@selespeed3 maybe no clogged, but I've seen them break causing this issue. If you pull up your rear seat to gain access to the tops of the fuel tanks, you can check once the two metal plates are removed and lids taken off.
@@mikepottle6647 is the rube connector at the bottom or top of the tanks left and right?
My odometer isn't working but my speedo is. I checked the gears and they looked fine and when I spun them they spun the odometer. Any ideas?
Nicholas Bouffard hey Nick I'm not too sure. Have you tried posting a thread on r3vlimited?
SI Board Batteries...
My gaugu is full on igniotom
I did exactly as you showed in the video, it worked again but today it failed again.
What I didn’t check was if the small ring is on the inside and the big one on the back.
I’ll try that tomorrow