So, this is how easy it is to build the M-Jet 35! Buy the files here and make your boat fly: www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/hobby-diy/other/m-jet-35-3d-printable-jet-pump-for-rc-boats Hardware kit by RCPrinter: rcprinter.com/products/m-jet-35-pump-build-kits
You did a great job on this project man! Very cool to see you can print the impeller in aluminum with PCB way... I'm thinking of buying my first 3D printer in the next few months, would be cool to play with your Jet design when I do!
Love the aluminum bending too! Just watched the whole build, beautiful work as usual. You have a lot of creativity and talent. I like some of your new solutions with the motor pins and shaft seals. Question- How different is the hull footprint compared to the MJet 30?
Skvělá práce! Je škoda že se nedá ošéfovat aby tvé soubory nikdo nezveřejňoval. A jeden dotaz, dal by se hnací šroub vyrobit na CNC obráběcím centru? Nemohlo by v něm být protizávaží, ale nic jiného tomu nebrání ne?
Díky! Na CNC by to vyrobit šlo, ale 1) Nedala by se vyříznout důležitá vnitřní geometrie, která vyvažuje těžiště, takže by šroub mnohem víc vibroval, 2) Byl by problém s koncem díry pro osu, kde je to ploché místo aby se šroub neprotáčel. Vzniká tam ostrý vnitřní roh a ten by se na CNC vyráběl asi trochu složitě, 3) Určitě by to bylo dražší než 50$, což byla cena za šroub na videu
So I have most of the parts printed and need to order the parts to build it. Can you please share the motor/esc/battery you used for testing? I see the graph has many options.
hi, I can choose between m3x6x5(outer diameter) and m3x6x4,5(outer diameter) threaded heat insert brass. Can you please tell me what size I should order?
Hi, good point, I will add a note about this into the manual. The inserts I used have the same dimensions as those M3 by CNC kitchen: www.cnckitchen.com/blog/tipps-amp-tricks-fr-gewindeeinstze-im-3d-druck-3awey So the inserts start with a 3.9mm OD, and then the notched part which holds all force is 4.6mm. So you should probably choose the m3x6x4,5 depending on how they look like.
You can mirror it yourself in your slicer. Though you don't necessarily need counter rotating impellers for this, the nozzle removes almost all rotation of the water.
Hi, I'm trying to find a suitable motor coupler, would you be able to link the one you used? Love your work by the way. I'm in the process of building the m-jet 35 now.
Hi, I am glad my work is inspiring for you! I purchased a set of these 5x5 D18 L25 couplers from China: www.ebay.de/itm/353827460993?var=623198168421 Alternatively this one from EU will work if you can drill the 4mm hole to 5mm accurately: kehrer-modellbau.de/en/KMB-JET28-Rev.-3/KMB-JET28-parts/KMB-high-load-shaft-coupling-OE-4-mm-OE-5-mm Maybe you can find some suppliers closer to your location though. Good luck with your build:)
So the tiny grooves next to the bearing hole are intended just to allow a bit more flexibility of the bearing slot. This way if the tolerances around the bearing are too tight, the grooves should allow the bearing slot to expand more easily and press the bearing in. Z seam just comes from the printer, there is not much I can do about it. If you find the Z seams problematic on your prints, you need to try various printer-related troubleshooting methods, I can't help with that. The groove is not related to them.
Thanks! I first found the efficiency advantage of the single blade design when I tried to gradually cut away blades from a 3-blade design in this video: ua-cam.com/video/_XM2nKv9fks/v-deo.htmlsi=GXoH_2MRuJHwTeWP
@@mjetdevelopment Looks like you are a friend of your Czech German compatriot Joseph Ressel. He invented the modern ship propeller as he (accidentally) lost the main part of an Archimedes propeller and realized it had much less friction and was thereby significantly superior. I wonder if your discovery would also apply to a propeller (rather then impeller).
@@SamuelLanghorn Yeah it's a great story, but for me it was still unexpected😀 I don't think this will aply to regular props, these have been tested in different combinations by way more people, so someone would have already found if there was improvement.
Hi, thanks a lot for this great jet pump. I build the M-Jet Sprint boat - its fun :) Can I also install the M-Jet 35 in the sprint boat? Do I need modifications or it fits?
Hi, glad to hear! Unfortunately the Sprint's hull is way too small for the M-Jet 35. Scaling it up would require so much additional modification that it would be better to design a brand new hull, which I might end up doing at some point. For now, you can take a look at the Valkyrie: ua-cam.com/video/QDlQmHeKBD4/v-deo.html
Have you or anyone thought about scaling this up to use in a full size jet boat? If it puts out that much thrust in a small package would it scale up nicely?
I have no way to build and test anything like a full size jet, but I gave it some thought. Most importantly, the very small scale of the M-Jet 35 makes the boundary layer effects extremely important, because dimensions of the boundary layers are not negligible relative to the impeller diameter. This is the reason why the 4-path nozzle and single blade impeller perform well at the small scale, but the benefit at a large scale is questionable. I would certainly be a fan of testing a large scale multi-path nozzle and believe there is some potential. With the single blade impeller, I think upscaling it would bring more trouble with vibration than anything else.
I was under the impression that in order to print PC-CF you'd need at least an enclosure and some kind of hardened nozzle, but you seem to do fine without any of those? Care to share your experience?
I have both hardened nozzle and enclosure. In the video there is plexiglass closing the printer. Hardened nozzle is necessary, but it is easy to get and install. Enclosure might not be necessary thanks to the carbon fibers, you would have to try on your particular printer. Also I use 285 on nozzle and 110 on bed
Hi, sorry, I dont have any footage of the M-Jet 60 build because it was result of a collaboration, and the pump was assembled by the other guy, then the collaboration ended. There are some basic steps described in the M-Jet 60 manual.
I used a 3670 1200kv on 6s, around 80A amp draw so around 1700W. But the M-Jet 35 is compatible with all 3660-4092 motor sizes. There is much more information in the manual page 5: drive.google.com/file/d/1d3b9momWcgAeUAn5o1v0-QZcIMYy4U90/view?usp=sharing
Thanks! The files are available for purchase here, current price is 60$: www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/hobby-diy/other/m-jet-35-3d-printable-jet-pump-for-rc-boats If you are asking about the total cost of all material I needed to assemble the pump, it was around 100$, the aluminum impeller being the most expensive part.
@@MrDINODINO74 No, unfortunately I decided not to sell any physical pumps. If you do not have a 3D printer, there are many 3D printing companies that could manufacture the parts for you. It is true though, that the build requires some kind of workshop and tools, and I am not able to help you with that.
@mjetdevelopment The situation is like this... 60 dollars for the files 100 dollars for materials to print it and another 50 for labour it's not worth the investment. When are jet pumps on the market for a better price , but if you start producing one this jets please don't forget about me. Overall, it was a very good project. Congratulations, keep up the excellent work !!! All the best !!!
@@MrDINODINO74 I completely understand, this is not the cheapest one:) If you eventually still wanted some of the M-Jet features, the M-Jet 30 might be the one to consider: www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/hobby-diy/other/m-jet-3d-printable-jet-drive-for-rc-boats Anyway, have fun with whatever you choose! If I decide to start production at some point, you will not miss it.
Could you maybe make a better prop because mine is maxed out at 75% power and wont go faster after that. and a stronger steering nob on the end of the shaft on the outside mine keeps breaking. This is for the mjet sprint.
Hi, which material are you using for the steering rod? And which motor, esc and battery? I have not seen such problem yet, the impellers should be able to take a lot of power into them. I am currently busy with finishing the M-Jet 35 and therefore am not working on the M-Jet Sprint design.
@@mjetdevelopment i am usimg a 3670 motor with 2650 kv on 3s with a flycolor 90a esc i dont remember the stuff that i printed it with. Any suggestions on what stuff is the stongest for the entire boat or sertain parts to be printed out of.
@@parkourrush3820 Your motor is so big you could run it on 4S. For the steering shaft and ball, use PLA. Some people make mistake of using PETG or ABS for this part, but these materials will just make it weaker. If you cant succeed with PLA, let me know and then we can think of something else:) Also if your issues persist, I might be able to hlep you better if you post videos or photos in the M-Jet facebook group (link in description of this video).
Thanks! I can understand that. You might like the cheaper M-Jet 30 instead: www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/hobby-diy/other/m-jet-3d-printable-jet-drive-for-rc-boats
@@Djmeniz1 I don't sell any physical pumps. You can buy the STL files and print the pump yourself: www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/hobby-diy/other/m-jet-35-3d-printable-jet-pump-for-rc-boats
The steering system is visible at 1:20 in this video: ua-cam.com/video/ke5BGJ54vEM/v-deo.html Does it answer your question:)? Also you can see how well it steers the water in the end of the "4G Sprint Boat Finally Running" video with on-board camera, you can find this video on my channel.
@@mjetdevelopment i have seen that,, but i still don't believe that can make sharp manuver like that,, No way,,, please make one episode about steering spesificly
@@sukasilat5596 Ok, I understand. This steering system is new so I get you are concerned about its manouverability. I will show you more footage where the steering system is better visible, and the nozzle is also shown in detail from the other side. Please watch 1:05 - 2:00 in this video, which shows older version of the same system: ua-cam.com/video/aXMWUv7xXt0/v-deo.html When connected to servo, you can see how it deflects the water at 1:16 - 1:29 in this video: ua-cam.com/video/KbvLo_k-ZRM/v-deo.html To see how tight cornering this system provides, please watch the boat in action at 1:16 - 1:36 in this video: ua-cam.com/video/KYTUcPcL1a4/v-deo.html What do you think about it?
@@R0B0TDAD Hi, the M-Jet 60 is still the only pump of this 60mm size I have available. The M-Jet 35 design is better basically in every way, but is only 35mm which is way too little for a surfboard. You could try getting the M-Jet 35 and resize it 2x up to 70mm, possibly getting a better pump, but it is not tested, result is unknown. Also you could run into problems with tolerances and hardware sizes after the resizing. The M-Jet 60 has been tested, and is designed to be built and sourced in this size easily. So it depends on what you want from the pump. Unfortunately I have no build footage for the M-Jet 60, because it was result of a collaboration. I created the design, but the pump was manufactured and tested by the other guy. The collaboration ended, and I do not have any footage myself.
@@vkbj2015 No, I don't sell any physical pumps. You can purchase the files and build them yourself. If you don't have a 3D printer, you can ask a company to print the parts for you.
maybe I missed it. But why did you remove 2 of the 6 exit holes? just better performance? Last step to perfect it is to add a sort of reverse on it. Your design looks very professional.👍🏻👍🏻
Yes, during last steps of the development, I changed from 6-path to 4-path nozzle and did not explain it properly. The reason is, I found out it adds a last small bit to efficiency, and also makes the steering nozzle more compact and durable. The water stream is now less straight and does not look as nice, but on a lake it delivers better performance, so I chose to do this compromise. I understand your needs for reverse, but so far I am not planning to add it because I never need it myself, and dont have space for it in my hull. In my eyes, simplicity of this design is also very important. Therefore if I occassionaly need reverse, I just spin the motor backwards which works a little bit, instead of adding a big bulky mechanism.
@@mjetdevelopment Years ago I bought a nqd tear into toy jetboat. Had seen it on youtube been used by who converted it to hobbygrade. Liked the idea and did the same. The standard little jetpump in it is together with the little brushed motor not even able to get the boat on a plane. the motor get switched out by a little brushless watercooled version. also the crap radio sysyem and steering device that is not proportional servo have to come out. and then It is a fun mini jetboat that can do light whitewater streams. great fun. But also then I wanted a reverse system so I measured the back of the boat and jetpump and made it into a 3d model. then designed a baseplate with two hinges that was held by the same screws that kept the stator cone on the boat. and now I could design the reverse bucket. it was just standard pla and expected the hinge eyes to break on me pretty quick but they never did. An added servo in the hull would push and pull the bucket up and down and when down the steering nozzle just could swing left and right squirting the water 50/50 over both sides to go straight back or when steering putting more to one side. The reverse bucket will split into two curved outlets that will aim the stream 45 degrees out left and right of the hull and down 45 degrees in forward direction. this steers the boat backward in a very controlled way and you can switch between forwards and backwards while on throttle since the pump keeps spinning the same direction. two years later I bought an other tear into jetboat to convert it with a bigger jetpump with brushless motor I found on Aliexpress. Old one had a 16 mm diameter of the impeller. The new jetpump a 26mm diameter. Also a bit bigger motor. great difference. Wanted to implement the same reverse bucket system so scaled it up and printed it it was so big. Almost 10 cm wide. Looked rediculous on this little jetboat so never finished the reverse on that one this way. Started to design a different system but an other project came up and forgot about it. The few years later found your channel and now I am thinking of building your boat design together with your jet drive. Can you give me a cost estimate beside the 60 euro's for the jet pump design? so costs for motor, and other parts like batteries needed for this combo and carbon sheets and resin and bearings etc. so all together without radio, receiver and servo's because I have plenty of that stuff. Just some estimate. is it 200, 500, 1000, 1500?
@@dextersxxxxlab I can give you a very rough estimation... Metal impeller 50$, all other pump parts (estimating you have some hardware already) 30$, brushless motor 40$, good esc 90$, filament for hull moulds 50$, all carbon and resin things 130$, 6s 2600mah battery 60$, thats 450 so it should be around 500$ together. Obviously not accurate and will differ according to component quality you select, then it depends if you want CFPC filament for the pump, etc.
@@dextersxxxxlab By the way. If you need a reverse bucket, I can help you (free) by designing a screw mounting point into the second stage as a pivot for the bucket if you ask and tell me where exactly you would like to place it.
@@mjetdevelopment Thanks. Maybe I will come back to you on that some day. Bought your files yesterday and today as I am working at home a few days a week I already have the printer running. And after the jetpump I first need to make the boat before I can decide If I would need the reverse on this boat. I do have an other question for you now. I can buy the same brand of motor with the cooling jacket. but only find 3680 1250kv 36L and 3680 11kv 36L. Can both be used on the 120 amp esc? or do I really need the 3674 1200kv you have in your list? and if so. where to find it?
So, this is how easy it is to build the M-Jet 35! Buy the files here and make your boat fly:
www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/hobby-diy/other/m-jet-35-3d-printable-jet-pump-for-rc-boats
Hardware kit by RCPrinter:
rcprinter.com/products/m-jet-35-pump-build-kits
You did a great job on this project man! Very cool to see you can print the impeller in aluminum with PCB way... I'm thinking of buying my first 3D printer in the next few months, would be cool to play with your Jet design when I do!
Thanks:)
Go for it, 3D printing opens whole new horizons😁
I LOVE it! Such a great design! And even better in the new version!
Love the aluminum bending too! Just watched the whole build, beautiful work as usual. You have a lot of creativity and talent. I like some of your new solutions with the motor pins and shaft seals.
Question- How different is the hull footprint compared to the MJet 30?
The height is almost the same, width is about 5mm more and length about 10mm more inside the hull. I can measure exact numbers if you need
thank you! this is so cool!
Great, I'm waiting for the file to be released.😊
When I see m-jet development I click! 😂 Good video :)
Nádhera, krásná práce.👍🇨🇿
Přemýšlím jestli by to nešlo použít do zavažeci loďe(Baitboat)
Skvělá práce! Je škoda že se nedá ošéfovat aby tvé soubory nikdo nezveřejňoval. A jeden dotaz, dal by se hnací šroub vyrobit na CNC obráběcím centru? Nemohlo by v něm být protizávaží, ale nic jiného tomu nebrání ne?
Díky! Na CNC by to vyrobit šlo, ale 1) Nedala by se vyříznout důležitá vnitřní geometrie, která vyvažuje těžiště, takže by šroub mnohem víc vibroval, 2) Byl by problém s koncem díry pro osu, kde je to ploché místo aby se šroub neprotáčel. Vzniká tam ostrý vnitřní roh a ten by se na CNC vyráběl asi trochu složitě, 3) Určitě by to bylo dražší než 50$, což byla cena za šroub na videu
@@mjetdevelopment díky za odpověď
Nice work !
So I have most of the parts printed and need to order the parts to build it. Can you please share the motor/esc/battery you used for testing? I see the graph has many options.
My setup:
3670 1200kv motor
Turnigy marine 120A ESC
Graphene lipo 6s 2600mAh
@@mjetdevelopment Thank you!
hi, I can choose between m3x6x5(outer diameter) and m3x6x4,5(outer diameter) threaded heat insert brass. Can you please tell me what size I should order?
Hi, good point, I will add a note about this into the manual. The inserts I used have the same dimensions as those M3 by CNC kitchen:
www.cnckitchen.com/blog/tipps-amp-tricks-fr-gewindeeinstze-im-3d-druck-3awey
So the inserts start with a 3.9mm OD, and then the notched part which holds all force is 4.6mm. So you should probably choose the m3x6x4,5 depending on how they look like.
@@mjetdevelopment Thanks for the fast answer.
Do you have files of the propeller mirrored so I might be able to use 2 counter rotating jet drives? For a larger boat. 😅
You can mirror it yourself in your slicer.
Though you don't necessarily need counter rotating impellers for this, the nozzle removes almost all rotation of the water.
Hi, I'm trying to find a suitable motor coupler, would you be able to link the one you used? Love your work by the way. I'm in the process of building the m-jet 35 now.
Hi, I am glad my work is inspiring for you! I purchased a set of these 5x5 D18 L25 couplers from China: www.ebay.de/itm/353827460993?var=623198168421
Alternatively this one from EU will work if you can drill the 4mm hole to 5mm accurately: kehrer-modellbau.de/en/KMB-JET28-Rev.-3/KMB-JET28-parts/KMB-high-load-shaft-coupling-OE-4-mm-OE-5-mm
Maybe you can find some suppliers closer to your location though. Good luck with your build:)
@@mjetdevelopment Ah perfect. I wondered if the spiral cut flexible ones would be strong enough. I'll give them a go. Thanks mate.
Have you found any new couplers that work well, I'm blowing apart the spring type every battery.
Maybe ill tinker up a 3dprint bearing press ?
Stepan, there seem to be two tiny channels in the sides of the nozze bearing hole as seen in 15:52 , what are those for?
Also do you have tips for hiding z-seams? are the channels for hiding z seams?
So the tiny grooves next to the bearing hole are intended just to allow a bit more flexibility of the bearing slot. This way if the tolerances around the bearing are too tight, the grooves should allow the bearing slot to expand more easily and press the bearing in.
Z seam just comes from the printer, there is not much I can do about it. If you find the Z seams problematic on your prints, you need to try various printer-related troubleshooting methods, I can't help with that. The groove is not related to them.
@@mjetdevelopment ok thanks
Excellent job my friend.
Where does the impeller design come from?
I did not watch all of your videos that might have the answer?
Greetings
Sam
Thanks!
I first found the efficiency advantage of the single blade design when I tried to gradually cut away blades from a 3-blade design in this video:
ua-cam.com/video/_XM2nKv9fks/v-deo.htmlsi=GXoH_2MRuJHwTeWP
@@mjetdevelopment Looks like you are a friend of your Czech German compatriot Joseph Ressel. He invented the modern ship propeller as he (accidentally) lost the main part of an Archimedes propeller and realized it had much less friction and was thereby significantly superior. I wonder if your discovery would also apply to a propeller (rather then impeller).
@@SamuelLanghorn Yeah it's a great story, but for me it was still unexpected😀
I don't think this will aply to regular props, these have been tested in different combinations by way more people, so someone would have already found if there was improvement.
Hi, thanks a lot for this great jet pump. I build the M-Jet Sprint boat - its fun :)
Can I also install the M-Jet 35 in the sprint boat? Do I need modifications or it fits?
Hi, glad to hear!
Unfortunately the Sprint's hull is way too small for the M-Jet 35. Scaling it up would require so much additional modification that it would be better to design a brand new hull, which I might end up doing at some point. For now, you can take a look at the Valkyrie: ua-cam.com/video/QDlQmHeKBD4/v-deo.html
Thinking about a way to power my SkyDiver submarine from UFO TV Series … maybe this is it.
Have you or anyone thought about scaling this up to use in a full size jet boat? If it puts out that much thrust in a small package would it scale up nicely?
I have no way to build and test anything like a full size jet, but I gave it some thought. Most importantly, the very small scale of the M-Jet 35 makes the boundary layer effects extremely important, because dimensions of the boundary layers are not negligible relative to the impeller diameter. This is the reason why the 4-path nozzle and single blade impeller perform well at the small scale, but the benefit at a large scale is questionable. I would certainly be a fan of testing a large scale multi-path nozzle and believe there is some potential. With the single blade impeller, I think upscaling it would bring more trouble with vibration than anything else.
I was under the impression that in order to print PC-CF you'd need at least an enclosure and some kind of hardened nozzle, but you seem to do fine without any of those? Care to share your experience?
I have both hardened nozzle and enclosure. In the video there is plexiglass closing the printer.
Hardened nozzle is necessary, but it is easy to get and install. Enclosure might not be necessary thanks to the carbon fibers, you would have to try on your particular printer. Also I use 285 on nozzle and 110 on bed
hi. could you please upload to M-Jet 60 build?
Hi, sorry, I dont have any footage of the M-Jet 60 build because it was result of a collaboration, and the pump was assembled by the other guy, then the collaboration ended. There are some basic steps described in the M-Jet 60 manual.
What printer do you use? Your prints look very clean
Prusa MK3 with enclosure. The PCCF filament also makes it look better.
Hallo, which motor type you used for these projekt
Brushless watercooled 3670 1200kv on 6s, 120A watercooled ESC
What Motor is used (how many power and kv)?
I used a 3670 1200kv on 6s, around 80A amp draw so around 1700W. But the M-Jet 35 is compatible with all 3660-4092 motor sizes. There is much more information in the manual page 5:
drive.google.com/file/d/1d3b9momWcgAeUAn5o1v0-QZcIMYy4U90/view?usp=sharing
Very nice job.
How much cost you the jet pump at the end ?
Thanks! The files are available for purchase here, current price is 60$:
www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/hobby-diy/other/m-jet-35-3d-printable-jet-pump-for-rc-boats
If you are asking about the total cost of all material I needed to assemble the pump, it was around 100$, the aluminum impeller being the most expensive part.
@mjetdevelopment ... I don't have where to build it . Can you make one for me ? If you give me a link to your Web shop I will buy it for you.
@@MrDINODINO74 No, unfortunately I decided not to sell any physical pumps. If you do not have a 3D printer, there are many 3D printing companies that could manufacture the parts for you. It is true though, that the build requires some kind of workshop and tools, and I am not able to help you with that.
@mjetdevelopment The situation is like this... 60 dollars for the files 100 dollars for materials to print it and another 50 for labour it's not worth the investment. When are jet pumps on the market for a better price , but if you start producing one this jets please don't forget about me.
Overall, it was a very good project. Congratulations, keep up the excellent work !!!
All the best !!!
@@MrDINODINO74 I completely understand, this is not the cheapest one:) If you eventually still wanted some of the M-Jet features, the M-Jet 30 might be the one to consider:
www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/hobby-diy/other/m-jet-3d-printable-jet-drive-for-rc-boats
Anyway, have fun with whatever you choose! If I decide to start production at some point, you will not miss it.
Could you maybe make a better prop because mine is maxed out at 75% power and wont go faster after that. and a stronger steering nob on the end of the shaft on the outside mine keeps breaking. This is for the mjet sprint.
Hi, which material are you using for the steering rod? And which motor, esc and battery? I have not seen such problem yet, the impellers should be able to take a lot of power into them. I am currently busy with finishing the M-Jet 35 and therefore am not working on the M-Jet Sprint design.
@@mjetdevelopment i am usimg a 3670 motor with 2650 kv on 3s with a flycolor 90a esc i dont remember the stuff that i printed it with.
Any suggestions on what stuff is the stongest for the entire boat or sertain parts to be printed out of.
@@parkourrush3820 Your motor is so big you could run it on 4S.
For the steering shaft and ball, use PLA. Some people make mistake of using PETG or ABS for this part, but these materials will just make it weaker. If you cant succeed with PLA, let me know and then we can think of something else:)
Also if your issues persist, I might be able to hlep you better if you post videos or photos in the M-Jet facebook group (link in description of this video).
💯💯
need a 155mm version on this for my mini jet boat
good job ! , but i find the files a little bit expensive,.... so i pass this build,.... . But great job !
Thanks! I can understand that. You might like the cheaper M-Jet 30 instead:
www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/hobby-diy/other/m-jet-3d-printable-jet-drive-for-rc-boats
can I order one from you?
@@Djmeniz1 I don't sell any physical pumps. You can buy the STL files and print the pump yourself:
www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/hobby-diy/other/m-jet-35-3d-printable-jet-pump-for-rc-boats
Please make video about steering system hiw its work? Hhh
The steering system is visible at 1:20 in this video: ua-cam.com/video/ke5BGJ54vEM/v-deo.html
Does it answer your question:)?
Also you can see how well it steers the water in the end of the "4G Sprint Boat Finally Running" video with on-board camera, you can find this video on my channel.
@@mjetdevelopment i have seen that,, but i still don't believe that can make sharp manuver like that,, No way,,, please make one episode about steering spesificly
@@sukasilat5596 Ok, I understand. This steering system is new so I get you are concerned about its manouverability.
I will show you more footage where the steering system is better visible, and the nozzle is also shown in detail from the other side.
Please watch 1:05 - 2:00 in this video, which shows older version of the same system:
ua-cam.com/video/aXMWUv7xXt0/v-deo.html
When connected to servo, you can see how it deflects the water at 1:16 - 1:29 in this video:
ua-cam.com/video/KbvLo_k-ZRM/v-deo.html
To see how tight cornering this system provides, please watch the boat in action at 1:16 - 1:36 in this video:
ua-cam.com/video/KYTUcPcL1a4/v-deo.html
What do you think about it?
@@mjetdevelopment ok,, thank you bro,,, you have great work,,,
@@sukasilat5596 Thanks! And thanks for taking a look🙂
8:19 just call its step bro
👌👍
Keep doing this! Love your work🔥
Is the MJet 60 still the best option for a surfboard? I would also love to see a build video for the M60
@@R0B0TDAD Hi, the M-Jet 60 is still the only pump of this 60mm size I have available. The M-Jet 35 design is better basically in every way, but is only 35mm which is way too little for a surfboard.
You could try getting the M-Jet 35 and resize it 2x up to 70mm, possibly getting a better pump, but it is not tested, result is unknown. Also you could run into problems with tolerances and hardware sizes after the resizing.
The M-Jet 60 has been tested, and is designed to be built and sourced in this size easily. So it depends on what you want from the pump.
Unfortunately I have no build footage for the M-Jet 60, because it was result of a collaboration. I created the design, but the pump was manufactured and tested by the other guy. The collaboration ended, and I do not have any footage myself.
Brain Rapid
Step #1 - Get an Engineering Degree 😅
Hahaha workin' on it:)
hey men. I need two of them for my Proboat Impulse 32. Can you built and ship to me?
@@vkbj2015 No, I don't sell any physical pumps. You can purchase the files and build them yourself. If you don't have a 3D printer, you can ask a company to print the parts for you.
maybe I missed it. But why did you remove 2 of the 6 exit holes? just better performance? Last step to perfect it is to add a sort of reverse on it. Your design looks very professional.👍🏻👍🏻
Yes, during last steps of the development, I changed from 6-path to 4-path nozzle and did not explain it properly.
The reason is, I found out it adds a last small bit to efficiency, and also makes the steering nozzle more compact and durable. The water stream is now less straight and does not look as nice, but on a lake it delivers better performance, so I chose to do this compromise.
I understand your needs for reverse, but so far I am not planning to add it because I never need it myself, and dont have space for it in my hull. In my eyes, simplicity of this design is also very important. Therefore if I occassionaly need reverse, I just spin the motor backwards which works a little bit, instead of adding a big bulky mechanism.
@@mjetdevelopment Years ago I bought a nqd tear into toy jetboat. Had seen it on youtube been used by who converted it to hobbygrade. Liked the idea and did the same. The standard little jetpump in it is together with the little brushed motor not even able to get the boat on a plane. the motor get switched out by a little brushless watercooled version. also the crap radio sysyem and steering device that is not proportional servo have to come out. and then It is a fun mini jetboat that can do light whitewater streams. great fun. But also then I wanted a reverse system so I measured the back of the boat and jetpump and made it into a 3d model. then designed a baseplate with two hinges that was held by the same screws that kept the stator cone on the boat. and now I could design the reverse bucket. it was just standard pla and expected the hinge eyes to break on me pretty quick but they never did. An added servo in the hull would push and pull the bucket up and down and when down the steering nozzle just could swing left and right squirting the water 50/50 over both sides to go straight back or when steering putting more to one side. The reverse bucket will split into two curved outlets that will aim the stream 45 degrees out left and right of the hull and down 45 degrees in forward direction. this steers the boat backward in a very controlled way and you can switch between forwards and backwards while on throttle since the pump keeps spinning the same direction. two years later I bought an other tear into jetboat to convert it with a bigger jetpump with brushless motor I found on Aliexpress. Old one had a 16 mm diameter of the impeller. The new jetpump a 26mm diameter. Also a bit bigger motor. great difference. Wanted to implement the same reverse bucket system so scaled it up and printed it it was so big. Almost 10 cm wide. Looked rediculous on this little jetboat so never finished the reverse on that one this way. Started to design a different system but an other project came up and forgot about it. The few years later found your channel and now I am thinking of building your boat design together with your jet drive. Can you give me a cost estimate beside the 60 euro's for the jet pump design? so costs for motor, and other parts like batteries needed for this combo and carbon sheets and resin and bearings etc. so all together without radio, receiver and servo's because I have plenty of that stuff. Just some estimate. is it 200, 500, 1000, 1500?
@@dextersxxxxlab I can give you a very rough estimation... Metal impeller 50$, all other pump parts (estimating you have some hardware already) 30$, brushless motor 40$, good esc 90$, filament for hull moulds 50$, all carbon and resin things 130$, 6s 2600mah battery 60$, thats 450
so it should be around 500$ together.
Obviously not accurate and will differ according to component quality you select, then it depends if you want CFPC filament for the pump, etc.
@@dextersxxxxlab By the way. If you need a reverse bucket, I can help you (free) by designing a screw mounting point into the second stage as a pivot for the bucket if you ask and tell me where exactly you would like to place it.
@@mjetdevelopment Thanks. Maybe I will come back to you on that some day. Bought your files yesterday and today as I am working at home a few days a week I already have the printer running. And after the jetpump I first need to make the boat before I can decide If I would need the reverse on this boat. I do have an other question for you now. I can buy the same brand of motor with the cooling jacket. but only find 3680 1250kv 36L and 3680 11kv 36L. Can both be used on the 120 amp esc? or do I really need the 3674 1200kv you have in your list? and if so. where to find it?
Thinking about a way to power my SkyDiver submarine from UFO TV Series … maybe this is it.