3D Printed WATER JET With TWO IMPELLERS - Visible Cavitation (TRANSPARENT)
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- Опубліковано 24 тра 2024
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Water jet drives are widely used in different types of marine vehicles from jets to military ships. Water jets are extremely powerful and efficient but same time, the concept is so simple, that everyone can 3D print and build it by themselves. In this video, I show u how do to it!
My designed water jet: cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/...
Two-stage water jet: www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-mod...
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________________________________________________________________ - Наука та технологія
Second impeller should run faster and be smaller than the first, for optimal performance.
Or a larger pitch Maybe
That's for gas pumps (compressors). Liquid pumps have all stages the same size because liquids are not compressible.
Adding new stages makes no difference in flow rate, but increases the hydraulic head and pump efficiency.
It looks like it could use a little bit larger intake to help with the cavitation.
Would having a counter spinning secondary impeller do anything? or is that just for jet engines?
@@stinkywater007I'm no expert in water impellers but I think it may work a little bit better because some of the power gets lost when the stream of water gets some spin. If the second stage rotates in the opposite direction, that will counteract the spin of the water and add some efficiency.
But I don't think it is worth the effort because some stationary vanes in-between the stages and after the second stage can do basically the same but the curvature of the vanes need to be optimized for a specific rpm and flow rate to get maximum efficiency.
I'm inclined to say that the cavitation you see is actually just air being sucked in from the loose fit of the shaft. And one more thing, you actually CAN use heat-inserts with resin. Not as good iirc, but doable.
You can see the cavitation forming on the back of the first set of stator blades when he tries to run it in that lake. It gets significantly worse when it hits the nozzle.
At this point, it'd probably be far more efficient and have much more thrust if he just removed everything right up to the first impellor and ran it like that.
i find it interesting how software developers make a crap ton of their stuff free. it's very rare that solo devs try to sell their code.
but 3d modelers usually sell their plans instead of benefiting the community. i am both a dev and a 3d modeler. i make all my stuff free and accessible.
Most likely because us developers are more often paid well enough, and are enough in demand to not feel the same level of financial insecurities most other people do.
The whole open-source ecosystem is a glimpse into what society could look like without financial insecurities.
Correct.@@netroy
I'm a programmer, and I think that the distinction is that 3d models are a work of art, where code is human knowledge in computer readable form. I feel it is immoral to restrict any knowledge by requiring payment for it.
@@sycration a functional 3d model that provides a utility (plans for a house, plans for a drone frame, etc etc) are not art. they are the "code" of the end product.
@@netroy very interesting take at the end. 🤔
Unbelievable use of 3D printing and commonly available hardware paired with maximum of 5 randomly placed expletives throughout the video to describe mundane phenomena is a recipe for success that I'll always be excited to watch. Bravo!
Brace yourselves. The water Jet unit experts who have never built jet units are coming to the comments 😱
Hell yeah, yet again another amazing project. I absolutely love seeing your videos and content, and I am inspired by some of your videos to keep up the hard work.
Great build!
You need counter rotating props w/ two motors (gears would be weak, noisy, vibration inducing and steal power). Add a pressure sensor in front of the props, a sensor in between the props and a sensor after the props for discharge pressure. You can then tune the maximum output by adjusting the two motors.
Perhaps inlet guide vanes (small and thin) to direct the flow for more bite on the prop - Just like in a turbo jet engine.
However the exiting vanes are not needed and are detrimental...
Great vid!
You want the second impeller spinning either in the opposite direction (more efficiency), or faster than the first impeller (more thrust). Otherwise there is no benefit over a single propeller, and actually a net loss on performance. You need to use a hollow shaft to connect one of the impellors, and an inner shaft running thru the hollow shift, separated by a high speed bearing, that way you can run at two different speeds. You add gear teeth to the hollow shaft, and either connect the inner shaft directly to the motor or its own gear.
None of that is necessary lol remember what it's used for
Excellent project
I think this is the first UA-cam video I've watched where I didn't skip the sponsor product. Infact, it's an integral part of the video itself. Very interesting 🤔
Great builder
If you used counter-rotating impellers separated by a larger-diameter shaft to keep the pressure up, along with another larger diameter cone following the second impeller, such that the system maintains higher than ambient pressure until the nozzle, you wouldn't get cavitation.
You should compare that to the same design with a single stage, one without the second stage, and one with a single impeller thats as long as the two stages together
If the second impeller is turning at the same rate and same volume as the first impeller, the most you can hope for is that the flow rate stays the same. It’s possible the flow rate is even reduced. Look at the stages of a turbine engine compressor: each subsequent stage is smaller in diameter with more fan blades and the blades themselves are at a greater pitch than the stage before.
Water is not compresible.
@@gerardoliveras430*as much as air
@@gerardoliveras430I see more air in there than water though....
Very very very cool!!
I watched your channel printing pumps for years , and finally you got a working design!
Отличная работа) Я сейчас тоже разрабатываю JET
You basically built a mini jetski impeller pump. Would recommend getting a small horizontal shaft gas engine, and use a chain or gear drive to get the RPMs up, and you could slap it on a small boat for a homemade jet boat.
Brilliant work, dude! Really well done!!! 😃
That thing works amazingly!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Good job my friend🤝
Küll sa viitsid jännata!
3D printing allows the amateur designer to test concepts and build workable prototypes in plastic and metal in a home garage or small factory before deciding on a patent or full scale production.
Opens up a new world of mechanical design and manufacturing.
I have a new design for submarine propulsion that uses a similar principle but with some interesting twists.
😎🇦🇺
nice
AWESOME work! I suggest using a mechanical seal like the ones on home bilge pumps / hot tub pumps. Very simple carbon-on-carbon with a spring! That will reduce most of your air leaks & cavitation
I noticed that you have a stator between the two rotors. The stator is good as it helps to straighten the flow for the 2nd stage, but it looks like as if the shape of the stator is reversed. The blunt end of the stator aerofoil should be facing into the water flow, not away.
Electrical connectors just chilling in the water while testing at a lake is pretty cool
You Should Use Venturi Effect In This It Will Improve Efficiency.
Good job. You should look into heat-set inserts though. They would solve most of your bolt mounting issues without needing to epoxy things into place.
You could put a hole on the side wall beside the first propellor so centrifugal force can push water through a tube connected to a heatsink on the motor so the motor doesn’t overheat.
7:30 You could use a screw here. When you will mount a plastic on this metal part, if you have screw it will guarantee your plastic wont break it. We do it on small robot wheels, you snug them in into motor, but to make sure they are tight we screw trough plastic to reach metal part.
grate fun and learning! thck you for the video
Buyer be warned, HeyGears printers will ONLY work with their proprietary and expensive resin refills. You cannot use your own resin. I wish sponsors would disclose this.
And what make you say this resin doesn't give a shit what printer it's in. The resin is exposed to UV light and hardens
@@jackass123455 Other than their website actually explicitly says that these cannot use any resin other than their own brand? The fact that it uses their proprietary resin containers, and the machine constantly measures how much it dispenses means it knows how much resin should be in the tray. There's no way they didn't add all that functionality without being able to stop people from using their own resin.
Fantastic
Impressive!
This dude's videos are soo cool! I just wish I could understand one single word!
You can use a propane torch on the clear parts to make them more transparent.
you should add a lantern ring to the shaft. basically a hose from the high pressure side to the shaft so any air leaks will get filled by the water.
I like your english accent, clear and easy to understand for me as an Indonesian people. Thank you👍
Oh wow that hey gears resin printer looks incredible i would love being able to get one.
Love your videos. As others have mentioned, the second stage should be different, otherwise this is just an apparent long impeller. You can also do at same speed on same shaft by making the second stage smaller, and have the housing reduce a bit before second stage, this way the first stage will be the intake, second stage the compressor
7:06 That´s why you´ll aways need some simple metal machining. Like a lathe. With a lathe, you´d have cut threads on an otherwise smooth rod, cause that´s the way such machines are built. One doesn´t use an end-to-end-threaded-rod, when the threads need to be just on a short part of it.
You've really come along way from your frist diy water impeller designs! Its amazing to see how much more powerful these new ones are getting! Love it!
Its not his design. He states that several times.
I might try experimenting with water outlet sizes to get a stronger pressure. Good video.
I’d love a video on resin printers for mechanical use, tolerances etc on common resin printers and all
6k rpms is plenty for a jet pump. You should consider optimizing the pump with those rpms. Add a wear ring to tighten up those tolerances of the impellers get rid of the air leaks tweak the impeller pitches and intake duct if needed. Thing should rip with some minor improvements.
You should do geared impellers from bigger impeller to a smaller impeller like turbine jet have. water doesnt compress but the compression will shoot the water faster thats why the end impeller should spin faster. At least thats my theory
"I press fitted the bearing" *Shows himself smashing it it with a hammer*
Second impeller could be larger if the cavity before the constriction was larger too. The water would want to slow down due to the increase of volume, but the fan would keep pushing it into the constriction
Hey my guy. To get your parts to be clearer, just hit em with a quick coat of spray lacquer. Gloss is best. Sanding nearly never improves results that much.
Useful tip: you can make FTM printer prints smooth by using a resin and baby powder
I think the fins inside the nozzle block water from leaving, lowering efficiency.
Ive been wanting to do this to a kayak for a while! I settled for a trolling motor rig i printed
same but id want one on a paddle board.
Volumetric efficiency. It's massive in water jets of this kind. So the leaks around shafts and joints need to be sealed to a high degree of reliability. We see bubbling around the back flange and the shaft will need a positive seal also. Against even an air leak. You produced a really sweet working model, component series here though.
Sonication and cavitation is a bitch - most props have a smooth tip rather than a pressure zone area for resonances and pressure waves to generate in.
i WISHED i KNEW HOW TO US THAT TYPE OF TECH.
It is definitely a nice build but you should do a second one fixing the issues and tuning it to better performance(stuff like leaks and clearances can be fixed in a second print). Most of your viewers would be interested in a 2.0 with a test using maybe a stand up board... If you will do it, try to find a calibrated rod for the shaft to reduce vibrations... Nice work!
On the testing footage in the pond, you can see the M5 nuts are coming loose and there is water exiting the housing before the first impeller.
We need a rocket bersion of this.
I think you should rethink your design a little. The jet is really just a pump that creates a pressure difference. There are pump designs that create high pressure zones towards the center of the pump I believe. If you use a multi staged pump where each stage is designed to create a targeted increase in pressure perhaps you could create great pressure at sufficient volumes to make it work at lower rpm's. Another idea, what about implementing an outer bypass that goes through a sort of ducted fan and interacts with the high pressure water coming out of the pump, The way the big aircraft jet engines operate. Have you ever heard of Viktor Schauberger? He had some interesting idea's about how water flows in nature. One of his ideas was how to use a fast moving stream of water in the center of rivers to pull river water around bends and minimize erosion on the river banks. Perhaps this concept could be used in a water jet design some how.
Again, you've got the stator blades in the middle and now in the nozzle at a completely reversed angle. This isn't a pump, it's now trying to be a compressor, which doesn't work with water.
You have water leaving the first impeller and slamming into the side of the stator blades, which creates a huge pressure difference on one side and significantly less on the other. This is the source of all the cavitation you can see. This cavitating mix is then hitting the second impeller at an oblique angle, which leaves by slamming again into the stator blades in the nozzle.
The water needs to enter and exit as smoothly as possible, any cavitation inside the pump drastically reduces efficiency, in this case it will badly damage the pump over time.
Water jets are not as efficient as regular propellers. A jet's advantage is that it can run in shallow water. But in deep water, the boat is slower than the same engine/motor and boat with a propeller geared correctly. That is why propellers are predominant.
Think of a 2 stage pump that you have essentially built, only use jet engine technology or torque converter for an automatic transmission, and the principal of running compound turbocharger system to force air into an engine, jet engines use counter flow to compress the air, heat it up and increase velocity and pressure.
What would happen if you make it a 2 stage waterjet? Like after this part you built you add a smaller impeller with greater pitch inside a narrower housing and with a smaller nozzle? Would that create a more powerful thrust in the water as the water from the nozzle would come out at an even higher speed?
Good ....❤
The air or cavitation is coming somewhere before the 1st impeller, either the intake is restricted somewhat, causing it, or the seal is letting air in
I may not be an engineer but I think you should move the propellers apart so that water can get sucked properly by the second propeller like I'll make a space between them filled with water and maybe it'll boost the maybe I'll increase the performance a bit, idk maybe it works
you have little leak on side it would be good make a gasket and stick in there seal it up from grey housing to clear plastic give it more pressure output
i think of one thing that wasnt tested was amp and watt and how many draw to sent it full power if it too much amp there going need be bigger mower to handle it ( was hoping for weekeater engine 47cc have top out 16k rpm )
Curious question: This design draws in water and shoots it out above water.
How different would it be if it shoots out underwater?
These propellers work the best when they are half above waterline water mixed with air
you could make the outlet smaller and it would be a pressure washer
Mmmmm...... "BOILDING" 😌
cavitation is a huge energy loss, you might try reducing pipe size each stage to keep water channeled toward impeller.
also gears are trying to crush water, thats why they are failing, lubrication is important.
Lets puild guys 🎉
oh you know what would be cool if you did a slow-mo of the propeller's
You can make RC torpedo boat with that
Can you do counter rotation ones next
螺旋槳腔室內部阻力太多
可以試著減低結構設計
導流出水口
可以增加設計引流
可以改善水柱直噴
而非擴散噴發
另外這樣汞噴設計
需要超強力馬達來推動
所以這樣的設計頂多是用在水上遙控玩具
而沒辦法用於載人
動力不夠
如果要載人
結構跟設計還要改善50%～70%以上
這要的設計還達不到商用
因為曾經製作過載人
所以了解狀況
I suggest making a test stand, water propulsion is famously unstable, and getting a kick at the wrong time could cost you your prototype in the best case scenario.
Упор создаёт больше с одинарным импеллером или с двойным?
If I want to print this on my Artillery sidewinder x2, what material would you/anyone suggest? PC seems hard without building an enclosure.
Looks like you're getting some thrust. You should see if you can measure it.
I really like your videos but may I ask what your obsession with waterpumps/jets is about? :D
but total energy/power of the flow does not change with narrowing the pipe, that comes from by the motor impeller, so finally the screw drive worked, can you change the resin color on the fly, per pixel.
How cavitation effect resin impeller, does it get damaged quicker?
looks like your nozzle can be constricted more since when your fluid comes out it expands like it's coming out at a high pressure. making it smaller should level out that high pressure and also give you more velocity. it could also be expanding due to turbulence but honestly, I think your pump is just that good and can use a more aggressive nozzle.
Can we order a unit for paddle boards as transportation to fishing spots?
Will you make a jet boat with you inside for the lake?
hi👍
The motor you used to test at the end did 6000 rpm?
Really cool video and project! Btw, nice countryside. Just wondering, seems like a lot of air entering the system reducing output, and also stream does not seemed focused, it gets diffused very quickly. Could be the profile of the jet exit or air or drag within the structure. Really enjoy your videos
What program do you use to model?
i want to see someone make one and use it as a pc water cooling pump
How can you revers this so you can take power frome moving water like a river or a water fall?
Is there a way to create rapid expansion of water beyond just pressure ???
Did anyone else just scream when he filed backwards?
👍💪✌
I’m surprised by how much air is in the flow
nice project you have there. Thanks to your transparent jet housing, you can clearly see that there is air in the propeller housing. This is very bad for your efficiency of your jet output. make sure your entire water inlet until your exit is water/air closed !!
Can the super charger impeller design give the same results?
The second stage be on a step up gearbox?
Simple , switch out the gearing , one big one small double the oomph
You just proved, that contrary to popular belief, water does not lead electricity as your power leads were soaking in the water, but nothing happened. Next time it's maybe wise to lift them out with the rope or something (assuming you do not have third hand).