Steam Shower Floor Tile Repair
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
- If you get a chance, please check out these Amazon links for products and tools that I use and recommend. **By clicking the links below, a couple pennies of your purchase goes to help 1T Fit and Finish through the Amazon Associates Program**
amzn.to/3NlBqbi - Schluter systems products on Amazon
Schluter Kerdi-shower:
amzn.to/3uRpS9B - Schluter Kerdi-Shower Kit 38" x60", PVC Flange
amzn.to/41eghWl - Schluter Kerdi-Drain Grate Kit, 4" Stainless Steel Finish
amzn.to/3No7DyW - Schluter Systems Thinset (ALL SET MODIFIED WHITE (50LB))
amzn.to/478ks7D - Schluter Systems Kerdi 1/8" X 1/8" Square Notch Trowel
amzn.to/4agTPQi - Schluter Kerdi Fix Grey Sealant 9.81OZ
Other Trowels I use:
amzn.to/46RM6Wb - Rubi PRO Bucket Trowel-Carbon STEEL-7” (Highly Recommend)
amzn.to/3thoJaE - Rubi Tools Trowel W/ Rubiflex Handle Notches Size: 1/2" x 1/2"
amzn.to/3GAElZQ - Rubi Tools Square Notch Trowel - 1/4" x 3/8”
amzn.to/3RAKtHR - Rubi Tools Trowel W/ Rubiflex Handle Notches Size: 1/4" x 1/4”
amzn.to/46N1vXT - Rubi Tools Trowel W/ Rubl Square Notch Trowel - 1/8" x 1/8” (for Kerdi-membrane and Kerdi-Band)
amzn.to/46Nac4t - Rubi Steel Notched Trowel - 3/16" x 3/16” (for Ditra underlayment)
Tile cutting blades (highly recommend):
amzn.to/4adF6Wm - Rubi Tools 4-1/2" VIP Premium Dry Diamond Blade (used on the grinder)
amzn.to/4agwz5i - Pearl Abrasive P4 DIA07TT Turbo Mesh Blade (used on 7” wet saw)
Tile Cutter/Cracker I use:
amzn.to/3Nlw4wQ - QEP 10624Q 24" Slimline Professional Tile Cutter
Spin Doctor Leveling system:
amzn.to/3NnYC90 - Spin Doctor Lippage Control System 250 Starter Kit With 1/8 Base plates, Tile Leveling System 1/8
amzn.to/4898Odt - Spin Doctor Clear View Shield (I really like these for reducing the friction when tightening down the leveling caps)
amzn.to/4abSt9J - Spin Doctor Tile Leveling System 1 by 16Th", 1.5mm- 1 Box of 250 Piece
amzn.to/3NndDHZ - Spin Doctor Tile Leveling System 1/16" Baseplates 2000Pc Bulk Box
amzn.to/3TfCAJn - Spin Doctor Tile Leveling System 1/8" Baseplates 250Pc
amzn.to/3RCZgSH - Spin Doctor Tile Leveling System 1/8” (2000 PIECES BULK))
Horseshoe Tile Spacers:
amzn.to/488E24m - Horseshoe Shim Tile Spacers 1/16 Inch (300)
amzn.to/3GBhDkn - Horseshoe Shim Tile Spacers 1/8 Inch, (300)
In this video I repair some loose and broken tiles around a Schluter drain in a steam shower.
This video shows the step-by-step process for removing and replacing small mosaic tile around a Schluter drain. The drain was either installed incorrectly or had been stepped on and pushed down about 1/4".
To do this job, scrape the grout down and carefully work the tiles off the substrate. Use a bar or putty knife to pry against as to not destroy or put holes and dents into the shower tray. carefully clean the thinset from the substrate and vacuum thoroughly.
Getting ready to tackle a full shower floor replacement for a buddy. This video was helpful.
I could tell there was a previous repair just like you did. Except it's still leaking and bad. Ceiling drywall below is brown and swollen. They stopped using it.
Custom home builder and outdoor living contractor for 27 years and never set a single tile in my life 🤦🏼♂️😂.
Thanks man. And thank you UA-cam.
Hey there Jasn. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
Fortunately, this repair was on concrete subfloor in a basement and the membrane was still mostly intact. The secondary damage could have been MUCH worse. That's what it sounds like in your case.
Your job sounds considerably larger than this one and opening up Pandora's box. It could be everything from plumbing to failed waterproofing. Then, there's potential repair of the floor joists, mold and fungus mitigation then sheetrock. It's hard to say where the water is migrating from. It could be failed in the wall or wicking up from some other location and moving through capillary action. Another great plug for Schluter's Lifetime Warrantee on labor AND material. :) Your job sounds SPENDY!
Tile's pretty simple. Since you're handy, I'm guessing it'll be a breeze for you (at first, I think the challenge is being able to move the tools effeciently). Using Schluter products is a LOT like "taping" drywall without having float the joints. I sort of count on about 1/8" wiggle room when it comes to the tile itself at least on the edges. Try to recognize when you're out of square early and anticipate small incremental changes to get back into square and plumb. You'll do great! The biggest thing that adds success to a shower install is making sure the walls are square and plumb. I recommend using a laser!
Hope that's not too much of a rant on the ol' soap box.
Thanks again for watching and commenting!
-Mat W/1T
We demo'd this week.
Floor tile over floor tile.
Caving in at drain
Flange out of level 1"
70s style kerdi dissolved
Mortar base turned sand
Wall tile on 1" of plaster.
Back half sub floor rotten
Curb was toast
We removed everything and 3 row of wall tile (4x4s). The rest of that plaster shower is tougher than a tank. Fortunately the rot wasn't full blown cancer like it can be.
Patching the little rot tomorrow AM and I decide to invite a buddy over to do the install. Kerdi + foam. He's even gonna set the tile. 🙏🏼
In the long run I'll have done this job just to pay guys but the homeowner will be delighted and they may toss me a French Door reno on the back of their house.
Thanks again for the content and the reply.
@@jasndavs Yup! Can o' worms!
So glad to hear you're one of the good guys and not gouging the homeowner. Of course, you're in business to bring home the bacon too.
-M@
Thanks for posting this video! It really helps me understand the process and materials I'll need for my repair. I've got my work cut out for me... I'm about to attempt a similar repair on the shower tiles in my house in Tokyo. The landlord refused to fix the tiles which started coming loose when we were living there. Now that we've moved out, our contract states we need to leave the house as we received it. Here in Japan, it's not so simple to find all the materials, especially in the quantity (or quality) needed.
Very professional! I like the fun comments...you did a great job.. the new tiles look great!
Thanks, Matt you did great work and had very good instructions about every step of the process. Wishing your channel much success!
Hey there Mr Sager thank you so much for the compliment!
I checked your YT channel and found your Etsy page. You sir do beautiful work! (from the snips I could see in your comments) I've always admired the use of "old" silverware transformed into beautiful accoutrements.
I'm sure you're doing great in school. From the look of your class load it's a challenge. I too tried for a BA in fine art as a young man. Had to settle for an AAS in Aviation Maintenance (which took me 6 years to complete) ??? lol
Thanks so much for your subscription, comment, compliment and watching!
-Mat W/1T
Thank you for a great video , picking up the material at home depo now and my repair is going to look great thanks to you !
Hey there Bad Astronaut. Thank you for the compliment! I checked out your channel. Some funny stuff. I subbed. :)
Please let me know how your tile repair turned out!
Thanks for watching and the comment!
-Mat W/1T
Sorry. I waited until AFTER I watched your video to hit the like button.
They there 3dogs! I just thank you for watching.
Yea, it's a bit cliche. I'm restructuring my future videos. I guess it's pointless to like and subscribe if you don't even know what the content is, or if it's any good.
I like your sense of humor! It made me laugh and smile.
Thanks again for watching and the comment!
Mat W/1T
I need to do this exact repair so thank you for this demo😊
Hey Starblue5785. Thanks for watching and taking your time to comment! The main reason I started this channel was to help folks like you. Small(ish) repairs, like this, aren't outside of the capabilities of most homeowners. Being able to take care of home projects yourself is a pretty great way to save money. Receiving comments like yours if validation that I'm on the right track. :)
In the long run if this repair had not been addressed, it would have led to a much more complicated problem that would have been outside the scope of most diy homeowners and cost thousands to repair.
Thanks again for watching. If you have any other home repairs that I can demonstrate please let me know. I'm always trying to figure out new content.
-Mat W/1T
You make it look easy!
Hey there! Yea, these smaller jobs are fairly easy. I'd say the most difficult part of resetting the drain is keeping the small mosaic tiles all on the same plane. The only hassle is that you need to give the thinset time to cure.
Thanks for watching and the comment!
-M@ W/1T
Great video Mat!
Why, thank you Mr. Jeff! Again, I think you're my biggest fan! 🙃
Well done sir, thank you for sharing
Hey Yellowstone-cabinetman, thanks for watching and the complimentary comment!
Us Northwesterners have to stick together. :) I'm guessing by your handle that we're likely even in the same state. This job was in Helena.
Thanks again for watching and taking the time comment.
-Mat W/1T
Thank you for sharing. My husband and I are redoing our shower and having trouble with our shower floor that we grouted adhering. The grout hardens and then after using it for a week it starts to soften. Trying to figure out what we are doing wrong.
Hello Mrs. Farrell, thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
My guess is possibly of a few things. First, there might not enough thinset under the tiles near the drain. It's important that a layer of thinset (near 100% coverage) stays under the tile for adhesion in order to "set" them. It should get pretty thick near the drain. When setting, it's like allowing the tiles to "float" on top of the thinset. With the Kerdi Drain, there should be about an inch of thinset below the tile. It gets somewhat messy when setting near the drain.
The next thing (and somewhat common) make sure to back butter underneath the drain grate frame to ensure full support by the thinset. (I'm fairly certain this is what occurred with the repair I did in this video). This is a crucial step in the process, I make sure to completely fill under the lip so that it will squeeze out creating a bit of a mess. For this step I make sure to mix the thinset a bit on the dry side and allow the thinset to cure for a few hours before I start cleaning out my grout lines. (If you start to clean it out too early, it can add moisture to the thinset allowing things to settle).
If the shower "tray" wasn't waterproofed properly to the "drain flange" and water is allowed under the collar this would allow movement which would create a failure point.
Lastly, there might not be enough subfloor support underneath the shower tray near the drain. This would mostly effect the tiles a few inches away from the drain flange itself. That would then propagate inward and outward from the edge of the flange (about 6" away from the drain grate).
"Softness" typically has to do with excess moisture. Grout is not waterproof. Neither is thinset. However, if set properly without voids (100% coverage under the tiles, under the drain grate frame) the moisture has little effect on the tile. Remember, it's the membrane beneath the tile that makes the shower waterproof. It's not the thinset/tile/grout itself.
If you check out my channel there are a few videos of installing the membrane/Kerdi and the actual drain.
Good luck! I'm sure you're going to figure everything out. If a monkey like me can do it, anyone can. If you have any questions let me know! :)
Thanks again for watching!
-Mat W/1T
Helpful video! I was going to do this myself, but it looks like the tools alone may add up to the $300 I was quoted for the repair.
Hi there Mr. Pulsipher. Thanks for watching and the comment.
I don't believe the tools would be much more than $50. The thing is, when you start talking about thinset and other consumables. The problem is that you have to buy fairly large quantities. Then what would you do with it when you're finished? The next thing to consider is the fact that most contractors have some sort of warrantee. Lastly, there's years of skill and experience and YOUR time is worth something.
I'm confident that you are more than capable to do this yourself. To be honest, $300 seems more than fair for this repair.
Thanks again for watching!
-Mat W/1T
What is the mix you using for the floor tile
That looks great
Hey there Paul, thank you very much for the comment and the compliment. I really appreciate the encouragement.
If you have a chance please subscribe and share my channel. I'm getting really close to 1000 subs and would like to reach that goal by the end of August.
-Mat W/1T
Replacing the whole floor tile in shower
Hi there Kathryn. Thanks for watching and taking time to make a comment.
Replacing the whole shower floor is a tedious exercise. I would recommend being extra careful to not to damage the substrate under the tile.
If it is a Schluter system (orange) the membrane is adhered to polystyrene foam. It is very sensitive to pressure and sharp edges. The way I tile my showers is from the floor up, so the walls are overlapping the floor tile. Pulling the edge tiles will be very difficult to not chip the wall tiles. Additionally, if by chance you tear or rip the substrate in the corners and it goes unnoticed the shower will fail again. For an entire floor, it would be my recommendation to pull the floor and first row of wall tiles around the entire parimeter.
Good luck! I hop everything works out for you.
-Mat W/1T
Good video!! question: did you add any sealer to the tile after the grout was completed? If so, what product did you use?
Hi there robertoariel8476! Thanks for watching.
I'll preface with; I normally use modified grouts that don't require sealer.
In this instance, the grout was a decade old and I did use a grout sealer. I used the "Miracle Sealant" Grout sealer that comes in the bottle with the brush on top from the big box hardware store. I did two or three coats I can't really remember. I don't have a preference with regard as I've not really seen much difference in any that I've used.
Good question and thanks for the comment and compliment!
-M@ W/1T
I am in the process of doing the same exact thing. I had a loose tile close to the drain because it looks like there was little to no thinset under it. When I pulled it up, it took a little bit of “fuzz” from the orange Schluter product up with them. The orange product is definitely intact but I’m worried I affected the waterproof quality of it? I pulled that tile up very carefully and did not gouge the orange product.
Should I apply any sort of waterproofing or something before re tiling?
Hey there Mr. Martin! Thank you so much for watching and taking the time to comment.
So... Without being there I couldn't make a real definitive judgment call. However, this is how I'd look at it.
First, if you apply anything to the Schluter system other than a Schluter product (Schluter-Set/Set, off brand "unmodified" thinset or Kerdi-Fix) the lifetime warrantee would be voided. That being said, I wouldn't use any other waterproofing product in your shower.
The "fuzz" is the fleece on the product. It's my understanding that the fleece provides the tooth for increased adhesion of the tile to the substrate and/or kerdi membrane/band to the substrate. As long as there are no holes in any of the membrane itself there shouldn't be a problem. The polyethylene under the fleece is what makes the system waterproof.
If installed properly there is an overlap on each seam of 2 inches. If there's a delamination at the seam it should be addressed. I've used Kerdi-fix to stick down delaminated edges before. Here's a link to the small tube of Kerdi-fix via the 1T Fit and Finish Amazon Associate Program: amzn.to/3NESPfs - Kerdi-Fix is used to secure the edges of Kerdi and Kerdi-band to existing structures such as tubs or drains.
If the drain flange is a Schluter drain flange with a Kerdi Grate, the outer diameter of the flange is almost 12 inches. If you were to look at a cross section of the drain it should be tile / thinset / Kerdi Collar (orange fleece) / thinset / Kerdi-Drain (white-grey fleece) / PVC / thinset / white polystyrene foam (shower tray) / Thinset / Subfloor. As you're removing the tile near the drain, you should be able to see where the Kerdi-Collar (orange) overlaps the Drain Flange (white-gray), The Kerdi-Collar overlaps the drain flange a bit further than the required 2". As long as that seam isn't disturbed and there's no holes in the collar you should be fine. If there is some delamination of the Kerdi-Collar (orange fleece) from the drain flange (white/gray fleece) for peace of mind I'd probably Glue the edge down with a little Kerdi-Fix. The Collar overlaps the Tray and the drain and seals that joint. Where you're talking about the repair, it's "down river" so to speak from the actual joint seam If there was a little delamination 1/2" or so, there shouldn't be a problem.
If the collar seems like there's a void under it or it appears to no longer be adhered to the drain flange, that would need to be addressed by removing the tile back to the outside edge of the Kerdi-Collar (apx 18"-20") away from the drain. Remove the collar, clean and remove as much of the old thinset as you can then re-apply a new collar and you should be good. You could special order a Kerdi Collar OR go to a Schluter dealer and buy a couple feet of Kerdi membrane and make your own.
Keep in mind that the Kerdi Grate and Frame is free-floating. Make sure to not use too much water for cleaning out the thinset from the grout lines when re-installing the tile. This can cause the void under the tile. Over time water will continue to flow on the outside of the Drain Grate/Frame and will erode more and more thinset from under the tile. You'll eventually have the same issue as you currently have. If you're using Schluter-All Set (or whatever thinset you're using) I'd make the mixture on the thicker (dryer) side of the recommended water amount. Make sure to over fill the underside of the lip of drain grate with thinset! If you don't you'll leave voids and again the same problem (My guess is that this is what happened originally).
When I set the tile around the drain area I allow it to set-up for several hours before I clean out the grout lines. The idea here is to wait until it's thoroughly set but not completely dry.
Shower drains are notorious for failure. One of the reasons I like the Schluter products are that there's a bit of redundancy in that area.
It sounds like you'll be fine as long as there's no delamination. Make sure to fill under the lip of the Grate/Frame to avoid voids. :) If your repair is within a 12" diameter circle of the drain and you see no delamination you're good to go.
I apologize for the novel I wrote here. I just wanted to be as thorough as possible.
I hope I answered your questions. Thanks again for watching and for your questions!
-Mat W/1T
If I don’t use a height collar adjustment, do I still apply thinset around the flange itself?
Hey there kamasamoa thanks for watching and the comment.
That is in interesting question. Hopefully I can answer it.
Setting the drain itself and setting the Grate Assembly are effectively two different processes.
Thinset around the Drain Flange: Within the Kerdi Shower Tray there is a step which is centered around the drain. This accepts the drain flange. The drain needs to be bonded to the Kerdi Shower Tray. The plastic ring with the trapezoidal cut-outs is called the "bonding flange". That is designed and required to be set into thinset in order to bond to the Shower Tray. The final step in the drain installation process is putting the Kerdi Membrane collar over the bonding flange using thinset. This step is crucial in order to waterproof the entire shower system.
The height adjustment collar comes with the Grate Assembly. I think of the Height Adjustment Collar as the bonding flange for inside the Kerdi Drain. The Grate Assembly essentially "Floats" inside the Kerdi Drain. The height adjustment collar is what provides the slight adjustments needed to compensate for tile size and placement. The thinset "locks" the Drain Grate into position Horizontally and Vertically. The height adjustment collar is what is used to make sure the Drain Grate is just below the plane of the tile for proper drainage.
Now, after all that... 😁
If the repair your doing is not utilizing the Schluter System, I'd need a little more information for reference. If it's simply a problem with your tiles coming loose, it might be that you just need to re-set them in place. If your steam shower is actually leaking there's a high probability that your waterproof envelope is compromised and you might need a complete rebuild.
I hope I helped.
Thanks again for watching and the comment. If you get a chance to share my channel and subscribe I'd really appreciate it. I'm getting very close to 1000 subs and hope to reach that goal by the end of August!
-Mat W/1T
Was the shower floor cleaned before this? What if they are dirty?
Hey Bryanutility6909 thanks for watching.
Yes, they were cleaned prior to the repair. However, there was an enormous "rat sized" hair ball that I pulled out with the drain grate. Bathroom tile cleaner is a good start. If there's waxy soap build up I'll occasionally use either denatured alcohol or lacquer thinner. I use regular white vinegar for mineral deposits.
Thanks for watching and the comment! Apologies for the delayed response. If you have more questions, I'll respond sooner.
-M@ W/1T
How much should I pay for this type job?
Hi Cliffordhicks! Thanks for watching and your comment/question.
This job took about 8 hours to complete over three days (I had other work in between dry times). These folks are repeat customers and they had the extra tile and grout on hand so I gave them a pretty deep discount. I charged them $380. If this was a one time customer and I was running around trying to match tile/grout I'd probably charge closer to $500 with the increased prep time and material cost.
I hope this answers your question. Thanks again for your comment. Thank you for watching my video!
-Mat W/1T
How do I hire you in MN?
And how much would u charge to put new tile in?
Hi there Angela. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment.
Unfortunately, we've got a state between us and mileage would be very expensive. :) I dunno, maybe I could do a cameo?
Thanks again for watching.
-Mat W/1T
not a pro, didnt plug up drian first, no repect for plumbers..
Hey there Jondozre, thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
I always plug the drain pipe one way or another. Not just for fear of clogging the drain, but also for sewer gas oder, losing tools and spacers! On this particular repair I might not have had my Oatey Plug but there was certainly something retrievable plugging that pipe. Last week I was taping and texturing a bathroom. My typical 3" Oatey didn't fit the toilet flange, so I used the bottom half of a large plastic soda cup and florescent orange tape so the toilet didn't get installed over it.
Anyway... I have deep respect for plumbers and electricians. I can be as professional as you want me to do. :)
Thanks again for watching!
-Mat W/1T
Never instale brick patern in shower floor its stupid tell costumer first
Hey there Marco, I see you watched and commented on another one of my videos. Thanks for watching!
The only thing that's going in"stale" are your malicious comments.
The customer had this shower floor done about 12 years ago. The mosaic tiles come in sheets which are laid out in 12"x12" and are already in the 50% running bond "brick" pattern. You prefer to separate each tile from the sheet and set each one individually?
This was a repair on a steam shower that I did not install originally.
Thanks again for watching and commenting. If you get a chance, please subscribe. I'd appreciate if you could review and comment on the rest of my videos as well.
-Mat W/1T
That kerdi pan was compromised, this repair is fruitless...
Hey there Mr. Latini. Thank you so much for your comment and watching the video so intently.
I know exactly what you noticed and I assure you that the "tray" (Schluter Systems actual nomenclature) wasn't even exposed. What you might have noticed was a tiny portion of the KERDI collar delaminated when I was popping the tiles off. I actually asked the Schluter rep about this issue and showed him photos. I applied a little All-Set under the edge of the collar while I was burning in as I was resetting the tile.
I checked out your channel. Your installs look great! Very clean sir! Your install in the golf ball video, provided that it was your install, is extremely tight and well laid out. I gave you a subscribe. :)
It appears that our business model is quite similar. Check out my channel. I have a great video on how to quickly install drywall corners with paper tape.
Thanks again for watching and the comment! If you get a chance, I'd really appreciate a subscribe.
-Mat W/1T
@@Mat-W-1TFandF good response and I hope that repair holds...important to keep that 2" overlap intact or cut back further and apply a patch or some hydroban liquid over it before setting. Get yourself a multi-tool and some diamond git blades to assist in that grout removal...If you dont have one, it's a great little tool and a time saver. You got my subscribe just from your response alone, keep up the good work!
@@superseal717 Thanks again!
Yes sir, I have several multi's. Have a couple diamond blades too. I get sketched out using them to remove grout on the Schluter substrate. One slip and a little job becomes a big job. I have also inadvertently buzzed the finish of neighboring tiles before. 🙄Sometimes, the tedium of hand tools is a little safer IMO. Higher up the wall or above the waterline I'm a little less cautious.
I appreciate your comments and thanks so much for the sub!
-M@