There's a lot of talent on UA-cam knurl jimmy, but you sir, are in a class by yourself. Thanks so much for spending the time to document your project. As a retired merchant marine chief engineer I particularly appreciate your work.
I have very much enjoyed your work. Please continue to post new film.I am learning so much and get inspiration from your work. I hope to start a loco next year.
Great video, quick question I have seen instructions that say the tubes should be slightly smaller than the holes so that the silver solder will flow with a capillary action. Your approach won't do that , but does it matter?
yes and no is the answer! on inspection of the tubes the silver solder formed a filleted ring round the inside and outside so that indicates complete capillary action (this is what you want). but if the holes is too loose, the silver solder will act more like a gap filler, this is not as mechanically sound as a close/tighter fitting joint. do remember that copper does expand a lot once brought up to silver soldering temperatures so it will have some give. if you have large gap filled joint they can be too ridged and cause stresses in the joint when the boiler expands with heat and pressure. When making crankshafts i machine the components to a press fit and still the silver solder penetrates through out the components. its very much trial and error, heat placement is a major factor of how well a soldered joint will go. i have spent up to 45mins soldering one component because the torch was too small and not getting sufficient heat in. experiment with different fits and stick to the books as you can't go wrong, always do some test joints first to practice on! happy soldering!
There's a lot of talent on UA-cam knurl jimmy, but you sir, are in a class by yourself. Thanks so much for spending the time to document your project. As a retired merchant marine chief engineer I particularly appreciate your work.
Great start can't wait to watch more.
I have very much enjoyed your work. Please continue to post new film.I am learning so much and get inspiration from your work. I hope to start a loco next year.
I don't reckon you need luck---you look competent to me..Well done
thanks for the kind words :) i will finish this project!
Thats beautiful . I'm interested to build a one . cann you give me some hints & informations that would help me ?? please
Starting your drill hole with a center drill might help location.
Great video, quick question I have seen instructions that say the tubes should be slightly smaller than the holes so that the silver solder will flow with a capillary action. Your approach won't do that , but does it matter?
yes and no is the answer! on inspection of the tubes the silver solder formed a filleted ring round the inside and outside so that indicates complete capillary action (this is what you want). but if the holes is too loose, the silver solder will act more like a gap filler, this is not as mechanically sound as a close/tighter fitting joint. do remember that copper does expand a lot once brought up to silver soldering temperatures so it will have some give. if you have large gap filled joint they can be too ridged and cause stresses in the joint when the boiler expands with heat and pressure. When making crankshafts i machine the components to a press fit and still the silver solder penetrates through out the components. its very much trial and error, heat placement is a major factor of how well a soldered joint will go. i have spent up to 45mins soldering one component because the torch was too small and not getting sufficient heat in. experiment with different fits and stick to the books as you can't go wrong, always do some test joints first to practice on! happy soldering!
knurl jimmy Great thanks for the comprehensive explanation. Graham
Read Alec Farmer's book Model Locomotive Boilermaking. You'll learn a helluva lot from it.He is an expert, having made numerous boilers in copper.