You're right, I started making videos on my little steam engines then decided to make a detailed series about boiler making as a sub-series but follow on the numbers in the film titles but start afresh in the page title. Sorry if that is confusing.
I've noticed a little hole in the top of your front tube plate, above the tubes. What is that for? I am in the process of acquiring the tools and materials to make my own boiler which will fit a gas fired engine I have.
@@M_F754 It's for a copper stay that runs from the tube plate to the back head to give a little extra strength. You can see it on the next video as I put on the back head. ua-cam.com/video/X_BsYd7xM8w/v-deo.html.
@@GandyDancerProductions Thank you very much! I am just watching now. One more question if you don't mind. What is the larger size of copper rivets you used? I have some 1/32's on the way already. Many thanks!
Hi Schuten, I felt there were other videos already covering silver soldering on boilers. I wanted to cover my design ideas and innovations for this small coal fired boiler that hadn't been covered elsewhere. Later in the series I do show some silver soldering on other parts.
Raw cylinder casting are quite expensive and complicated to machine. Fabricating them from tube and plate material is even more complex. If you don't have a lathe get someone you trust to machine castings for you.
To rivet the plates together I simply use a small hammer and a steel bar held in the vice as an anvil so I can get into the narrow space of the firebox. I'm using copper so it doesn't take to many hits to close them. I don't worry about flattening the domed head of the rivet.
Yes, that's correct. Just make sure the part for silver soldering are a good fit together to start with. The rivet is only there to hold it together while you heat them so don't make the rivet too tight or the solder won't penetrate.
This is a question that has puzzled me... for ages. When all trains, not just live steam locos, move, you know how the big cloud of steam puffs out in the beat of the pistons? If the smokebox is connected to those pipes that go into the firebox, then why doesn't the smoke just stream out? What makes it go to the chuff?
Hi Andrew, good question. The dynamics of the smoke box is one of the most important parts of a steam engine. The smoke and flame from the fire comes through the tubes as you say. The exhaust steam from the cylinders come in at the bottom of the smoke box combines with the smoke and the puffs throw it out of the chimney. The puff creates a vacuum that draws the fire through the tubes. Without them the fire would go out and that's why you need a blower on the chimney when the loco isn't puffing. The more the engine works the more it puffs and draws air through the fire to generate more heat and hence more steam.
Hi Rick, the plans i used are from the booklet - 'Russell: Story of an Historic Narrow Gauge Steam Locomotive' by Welsh Highland Railway - which is out of print but you can find it second hand online. They depict only side elevation, ends and top view of the complete loco. You have to figure out the rest yourself. There's a number of parts you can get from Roundhouse Engineering like cylinders, dome and regulator. Good luck and thanks for your interest.
Hi Rick, I haven't yet. It's too cold outside to stand about waiting for steam so I've got on with other model engineering jobs. Once spring comes I'll coal fire. There is a video of a steam test I did on gas. ua-cam.com/video/b2c-_yaOqrs/v-deo.html Subscribe so you'll know when coal firing happens.
I've taken these measurements off the loco completed as I didn't make any drawings during the build so they are not absolute: Boiler barrel O/D 2” Length of Boiler 7 1/2” Fire box outside width 2” Inner firebox 1 9/16” wide by 2” long by 2 1/2” deep Fire tubes 3/8” O/D by 5” long Hope that helps.
Hi Matt, first decide what lamps you want to use. The fitting slots on the back of the lamps may be different. Find or make some brass strip to fit the lamps and bend it into a 'L' to fit the running boards. Or a 'L' with a tong to fit on the smokebox face and the rear tender. Silver solder the tong on and rivet or screw the fixings to the loco. Hope that helps.
@@mattseymour8637 K & S Metals have convenient brass strip but there are other suppliers on Amazon. Also try you local hardware store you'll might be surprised what you'll find there.
@@ChengduLittleA You have to repeatedly soften the metal through heat treatment. Forming work hardens it. ua-cam.com/video/2JUWlZ5xt5o/v-deo.html this video shows some of the process.
Does anyone know a good website where i can order a boiler for a specific design? Or a place in California? I looked on the internet and couldn' really find anything.
Hi Tan, I don't know anyone who builds boilers on the West Coast. You could try asking on a Facebook group called 'Backyard Railroading' they have knowledgeable members.
Sorry David, I can't give you advice about who to go to for flanging your boilerplate. I make my own on a wooden former and lots of annealing of the copper. Comes out looking nice. You could try professional model boiler maker, there are a few on the web.
Its only the flanges that are beaten and these end up inside the outer rapper. If you want them "factory made" it will cost you a fortune with all the tooling.
In the US I buy my silver solder from McMaster-Carr they call it 'Brazing Alloys'. I use two types: a lower temperature with catalogue # 7676A6 and a higher temperature with catalogue # 7673A4. I get them in coils of 1/16" wire. It's quite expensive at $80 plus shipping and you'll need flux with it. Start with the higher temp first then the lower temp solder so things don't melt and shift.
A lot of the raw materials like the frame steel, buffer beam, wheels and brass for the side tanks and cab I already had. The copper for the boiler and the tubes were given to me by a friendly plumber. All those little steel screws you see are 8, 10 and 11 BA with hex heads that are one size smaller and are quite expensive. The silver solder for the boiler cost around $70. The part that cost the most were from Roundhouse Engineering such as the cylinders £140, dome, pressure gauge £27 and regulator £22. The cylinders were well worth the money considering all the work they saved. I would estimate between buying parts and scrounging material I've spent $500.
I intended the series to be about various locos I've built. Part 1 is Blanche I'd just finished and part 2 is Russell's chassis running on air. Then I started the boiler and just continued the numbering in the same series. There's no earlier part to the making of Russell unfortunately.
Boy golly this looks like fun!
This is a very interesting Chanel , 👍👍.
You're right, I started making videos on my little steam engines then decided to make a detailed series about boiler making as a sub-series but follow on the numbers in the film titles but start afresh in the page title. Sorry if that is confusing.
I've noticed a little hole in the top of your front tube plate, above the tubes. What is that for? I am in the process of acquiring the tools and materials to make my own boiler which will fit a gas fired engine I have.
@@M_F754 It's for a copper stay that runs from the tube plate to the back head to give a little extra strength. You can see it on the next video as I put on the back head. ua-cam.com/video/X_BsYd7xM8w/v-deo.html.
@@GandyDancerProductions Thank you very much! I am just watching now.
One more question if you don't mind. What is the larger size of copper rivets you used? I have some 1/32's on the way already.
Many thanks!
@@M_F754 I used 1/8" copper rivets.
@@GandyDancerProductions Thank you. Much appreciated 🚂
класс!
Agreed.
wished u showed us the actual soldering of those tubes n joints!
Hi Schuten, I felt there were other videos already covering silver soldering on boilers. I wanted to cover my design ideas and innovations for this small coal fired boiler that hadn't been covered elsewhere. Later in the series I do show some silver soldering on other parts.
I am looking to build a 7.5 and do you recommend buying the cylinders I have no lathe so I would have to be drilling and filling
Raw cylinder casting are quite expensive and complicated to machine. Fabricating them from tube and plate material is even more complex. If you don't have a lathe get someone you trust to machine castings for you.
@@GandyDancerProductions And do not start with a 7.25 loco!!!
What tools/techniques do you use to set the copper rivets?
To rivet the plates together I simply use a small hammer and a steel bar held in the vice as an anvil so I can get into the narrow space of the firebox. I'm using copper so it doesn't take to many hits to close them. I don't worry about flattening the domed head of the rivet.
I assume you set that up with the rivet head inside and against the bar anvil, forming the second head with the hammer?
Yes, that's correct. Just make sure the part for silver soldering are a good fit together to start with. The rivet is only there to hold it together while you heat them so don't make the rivet too tight or the solder won't penetrate.
This is a question that has puzzled me... for ages. When all trains, not just live steam locos, move, you know how the big cloud of steam puffs out in the beat of the pistons? If the smokebox is connected to those pipes that go into the firebox, then why doesn't the smoke just stream out? What makes it go to the chuff?
Hi Andrew, good question. The dynamics of the smoke box is one of the most important parts of a steam engine. The smoke and flame from the fire comes through the tubes as you say. The exhaust steam from the cylinders come in at the bottom of the smoke box combines with the smoke and the puffs throw it out of the chimney. The puff creates a vacuum that draws the fire through the tubes. Without them the fire would go out and that's why you need a blower on the chimney when the loco isn't puffing. The more the engine works the more it puffs and draws air through the fire to generate more heat and hence more steam.
hello . very nice work . where did you aquire the drawings . I'd like to make my own loco in 32 mm gauge
Hi Rick, the plans i used are from the booklet - 'Russell: Story of an Historic Narrow Gauge Steam Locomotive' by Welsh Highland Railway - which is out of print but you can find it second hand online. They depict only side elevation, ends and top view of the complete loco. You have to figure out the rest yourself. There's a number of parts you can get from Roundhouse Engineering like cylinders, dome and regulator. Good luck and thanks for your interest.
do you have a video of the first coal firing please
Hi Rick, I haven't yet. It's too cold outside to stand about waiting for steam so I've got on with other model engineering jobs. Once spring comes I'll coal fire. There is a video of a steam test I did on gas. ua-cam.com/video/b2c-_yaOqrs/v-deo.html Subscribe so you'll know when coal firing happens.
what is the size of the 5 fire tubes? and the lenght? Could you give me some measurement of that boiler and firebox? Thanks!
I've taken these measurements off the loco completed as I didn't make any drawings during the build so they are not absolute:
Boiler barrel O/D 2”
Length of Boiler 7 1/2”
Fire box outside width 2”
Inner firebox 1 9/16” wide by 2” long by 2 1/2” deep
Fire tubes 3/8” O/D by 5” long
Hope that helps.
What acid do you dip it in
Hi, I used acid crystals I got in the tin from Small Parts in the US. You can use battery acid from a car accessory store.
@@jonathanguilbert8658 Citric acid (lemon juice) 50% water does fine.
Do you use wood formers for flanging or something else?
Hi John, yes i do use wood.
@@GandyDancerProductions what type of wood?
@@johnkuzma7066 I used just ordinary plywood.
What thickness was the 2” copper boiler tube also can you buy such tubing from plumbing/ DIY/ building suppliers?
You should be able to buy this copper tube from a plumbers store. It's wall thickness is 1/16" internal bore 2" and external diameter 2 1/8".
I know it's off topic but how do I make a lamp holder for putting on the front of a 3.5 inch loco?
Hi Matt, first decide what lamps you want to use. The fitting slots on the back of the lamps may be different. Find or make some brass strip to fit the lamps and bend it into a 'L' to fit the running boards. Or a 'L' with a tong to fit on the smokebox face and the rear tender. Silver solder the tong on and rivet or screw the fixings to the loco. Hope that helps.
@@GandyDancerProductions thanks for the advice. Where is best to get the metal from?
@@mattseymour8637 K & S Metals have convenient brass strip but there are other suppliers on Amazon. Also try you local hardware store you'll might be surprised what you'll find there.
@@GandyDancerProductions thanks will see what can find
How do you curve the shape of the cooper plates？And are those solders similar to the one used to solder PCB boards? thank!
Hi Yiming, the main part of the boiler is a coper tube and opened out at the fire box end. The rest is formed over wooden blocks.
Gandy Dancer Productions thanks! Keep up the great work!
@@ChengduLittleA You have to repeatedly soften the metal through heat treatment. Forming work hardens it. ua-cam.com/video/2JUWlZ5xt5o/v-deo.html this video shows some of the process.
Does anyone know a good website where i can order a boiler for a specific design? Or a place in California? I looked on the internet and couldn' really find anything.
Hi Tan, I don't know anyone who builds boilers on the West Coast. You could try asking on a Facebook group called 'Backyard Railroading' they have knowledgeable members.
Gandy Dancer Productions thank you!
I need some 6" copper end caps for a boiler. Can you refer me to someone ? I can hammer my own but would like cleaner pressed look. Thanks
Sorry David, I can't give you advice about who to go to for flanging your boilerplate. I make my own on a wooden former and lots of annealing of the copper. Comes out looking nice. You could try professional model boiler maker, there are a few on the web.
Its only the flanges that are beaten and these end up inside the outer rapper.
If you want them "factory made" it will cost you a fortune with all the tooling.
what kind of solder do I need?
In the US I buy my silver solder from McMaster-Carr they call it 'Brazing Alloys'. I use two types: a lower temperature with catalogue # 7676A6 and a higher temperature with catalogue # 7673A4. I get them in coils of 1/16" wire. It's quite expensive at $80 plus shipping and you'll need flux with it. Start with the higher temp first then the lower temp solder so things don't melt and shift.
OK, thanks
How much did it cost all in all
A lot of the raw materials like the frame steel, buffer beam, wheels and brass for the side tanks and cab I already had. The copper for the boiler and the tubes were given to me by a friendly plumber. All those little steel screws you see are 8, 10 and 11 BA with hex heads that are one size smaller and are quite expensive. The silver solder for the boiler cost around $70. The part that cost the most were from Roundhouse Engineering such as the cylinders £140, dome, pressure gauge £27 and regulator £22. The cylinders were well worth the money considering all the work they saved. I would estimate between buying parts and scrounging material I've spent $500.
no part one and two?
I intended the series to be about various locos I've built. Part 1 is Blanche I'd just finished and part 2 is Russell's chassis running on air. Then I started the boiler and just continued the numbering in the same series. There's no earlier part to the making of Russell unfortunately.
ah okay, makes sense now. Great work tho :)
the videos and the labeling do not match