Introducing the Longhorn Agile Friction Hitch
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- Опубліковано 15 чер 2023
- The Longhorn Agile Friction Hitch is an incredible development in that it delivers the properties of the Agile Hitch in a variant which has automatic tending or progress capture features. It can be used for non-mechanical SRT climbing, tether, lineman's belt or lanyard applications. Related videos:
• Tying the Longhorn Hit...
• Tying the Longhorn Agi...
• Longhorn Agile Hitch, ...
• Tying the Compact Long...
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DISCLAIMER: Viewers assume responsibility for their own safety. This video is provided for demonstrational and informational purposes only, and is not considered advice nor instruction. Climbing and related knot tying activities are dangerous and should be performed only with appropriate training, supervision and protective equipment. The author disclaims responsibility for the clarity, comprehensiveness and accuracy of the content, as well as all liability for accidents or injuries incurred. - JRB Tree Climbing LLC
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I walked away from this initially thinking it was too complicated. In a moment of frustration with my current hitches, I revisited it. I'm super impressed with the upgrade to my climbing system so far. Great characteristics of hold and self tending is a game changer to say the least. Thank you for you exhaustive efforts to push the advancement of climbing systems forward. If you had a subscriber for every mad rock, gri gri, F4, ect. that was sold, this channel would be gigantic. A little working knowledge goes a lot further than the typical "spend more to do more" way of getting people into the trees.
Appreciate that sincerely. Good news will find its receptive audience. Friends will help friends via word of mouth and organic means. It's not my goal to have the biggest channel or any of that. It's to have the best climbing methods and ensure they are available to all.
This looks like a fantastic solution for single rope no mechanical device climbing. Thank you and stay safe.
I think this is the best one so far. This one will be hard to beat. I like that it's self tending and captures the weight when loaded and very easy to break. The other thing I like is that you can carry it with you or in your pouch as a hitch, then build it on the fly. Nice work, John. It's definitely my favorite 🎯
It seems to be preferred by most. It's longer than JRB Ascender and can't be tied in "compact" mode, so there are a few applications where JRBAH is preferred, but I am preferring SRT on the LAH.
I think this looks extremely easy. I can’t wait to give it a go! I have a feeling this is going to be my favorite hitch. Thank you John for another great video
Yes, this hitch opens up a lot of possibilities. For example, if we want to execute an SRT climb with a minimal amount of rope, we can rig a rope in the tree and then pop this on quite easily
Great John ….. You are always breaking new ground , appreciate your passion and work ethic. Don’t let a few sour grapes over at S . Hunter deter you, its easy to criticize . I know many people have benefited from your work and the generous way you present it.
Appreciate that. I am just sharing what I am doing. If it's helpful to folks, it will get shared. If some don't see the value or want to take their chances climbing without an adequate tie in or slack profile, at least they had access to the info. But i am getting tired of all the accidents that could have been prevented.
Wow! I'm not sure how you will top this one. Thank you for all your innovations. Keep up the great work.
Thanks Phil. Yes, this one offers both performance and a relatively easy exercise to tie it.
Well I have been playing with this hitch tonight. I have a 30 foot extension ladder that I have been trimming some limbs in the yard off of . I have an 11 mm rope that I run over a limb and use a friction hitch on around both sides as insurance. I figured that I would need more rope for this hitch because hey 2 11mm ropes I am going around. So I started out with a 8 foot piece. Used 16Inches to start and tied the longhorn agile hitch as described. I found out right off the get go that you really have to set that longhorn knot to keep your tails from getting shorter(at least with the rope I am using) . Next thing I found out was I didn't need 5/2 on the double rope. Ended up with 3/1, 20 inch tails to start, 13 inch tails finished. Works great! Thanks! Friction cord I am using is 7mm braided poly. It does set pretty hard if I do drop my weight on it, much easier to slide if I don't(or readjust after) To be expected I reckon due to the compression of the double rope. The tending without a pulley is slick.
Thank you.
The ultimate professional. Thank you for sharing.
Appreciate that my friend.
This is amazing
Hey John, thanks again for another knot that I can use in the field. I'll be practicing this one today. I've been watching your videos for a while now and I believe this is the first time I've commented. You did the load test at the end, and said something about the 800-900 pound range of load, and knowing no way that you would ever exceed that in the field. On that, I agree, I'm sure as hell not going upward with anything more than me and my absolutely needed gear. Anything else can wait below with a tether. However, what I wanted to mention was the difference between applied load (the come-along) and instant force (the dreaded fall).
I've been trained by the two of the largest scale companies in the world (Mettler-Toledo and Fairbanks) to work on industrial scales, where as I'm sure you can imagine some of the repairs I've had to encounter. I found it hard to believe, but remember both companies, at some point in some of their classes, going over the difference in the load types. I recall a story once, that is very fitting, where an instructor mentioned that a forklift driver driver saying that there was no way he had damaged a scale, since he was only weighing a pallet of 55 gallon drums (1800+/- lbs loaded) on a 10K lbs scale. The issue the instructor pointed out was that, at 3', a 1 pound weigh generated over 800 lbs of force when dropped. Now, I found this hard to believe, and still find it hard to understand, but after having seen it demonstrated, have no choice but to accept it. We set up a scale that could measure peak forces, even if just for a millisecond, kind of the way a multimeter can measure the high-lows of voltage or amperage, and sure enough, I saw first hand. I guess you could say I was "schooled", literally, on the difference. If I recall correctly, it was actually about 880 lbs that had been generated of "shock" force that the certified 1 lb weight had applied when dropped from the top of a yard stick. If the system we used didn't record "peaks", I don't think there would have been anyway for me to see the number, as I watched the display intently during the demonstration, and I never once saw the real-time numbers at that range, though I do remember seeing triple digits flicker. Once we reviewed the recorded peaks though, that was the story to be told.
I know this was a long story for such a small "after thought", but I have always had the tendancy to explain things of this nature with more detail than probably needed, and I only pull from personal experiences whenever make mention of "facts". Otherwise it's kind of just hear-say. Whether this helps you in the future, or maybe gets you to look into it more for yourself, I figured I would just pass along a little something I've learned along the way. You have taught me so much that the least I could do was to share a little of my knowledge with you. Thank you again for all the time and effort you put forward in explaining knots. You have been a tremendous help to me.
1st, thanks. I appreciate the comment. There are various impact force calculators online which will calculate the estimated arresting force for a falling object of different mass and height. However, none can be completely accurate because every centimeter of "give" that our system has in absorbing that event has a big effect on the Impact force seen by the object, which is our precious body. I have recently invested in the scale you saw in this video which is capable of extremely fast sample rates. I have done some crude measurements and will need to cobble together a video for you to explain. But the summary is that most climbers would be surprised at how the exponential nature of the acceleration of gravity creates some BIG numbers at SHORT fall distances. This is why I climb by a simple rule: Slack should be zero ideally, otherwise, less than one foot maximum. As for the numbers you quoted in your example, I believe those need to be double checked. Pls contact me via the website and I will get back to you when I can and we can discuss it in detail.
John, many thanks again. I used the RADS SRT with a JRB ascender on top, Longhorn Agile Hitch to my bridge, and I topped it off by making a separate foot loop connected to the JRB to give me some leverage. Used the Munter exactly as you show in the video coming down, so it all worked great. I have an extra Longhorn Agile Hitch packed in my saddle bag. I think it is a great innovation. Thanks, Kevin
Kevin, that sounds completely viable. However, personally, I prefer to rise at a 1:1 instead of a 3:1 pace. If we can review your geometry and technique, we can probably get you comfortable on a 1:1 also. You know how to reach me! Thanks again!
They should teach all these knots and hitches in school
I would agree with ya on that. I just made a page to list my favorites:
jrbtreeclimbing.com/content/favorite-knots/
John, I love your stuff. I have taught for 31 years and now am retired. Your teaching is very concise and understandable. I may be alone in this thought but I would love if you could take one minute at the beginning of your videos to inform the viewer of what type/thickness of rope you are climbing on and what type/thickness of rope you are using for your tending hitches. Keep up the great work. You are appreciated.
It's a fair suggestion. At one point I was doing so but I stopped simply because I want my videos to be relevant long into the future, when the rope and cord I am using in a particular video might no longer be available. It's already happened a few times in my climbing career. What I can do is go through the earlier videos and update the video description to contain that information. And figure out the best way to make sure you can get that information in the future. Thx! Also, the website has a ton of info, and is growing: jrbtreeclimbing.com/
Looks like a great hitch👍🏻
Thank you Ken. This was just an introduction. There's a lot of fun things we can do with this to keep ourselves safe and tied in
Very cool. A few biners and some cord to tie these will be way cheaper and quieter than a hand ascender and safeguard. Though I'll keep those on the amazon wishlist anways
SRT with this will be great, for simpler bypasses. Now I need to learn about basal anchors. was interesting to see the pull test at the end. I would love to see an exhaustive JRB school of climbing get tested over at HowNot2 UA-cam channel. That would be so cool. It would get a lot of exposure to the climbing world (outside of saddle hunters) for your works.
I love the HowNot2 team. I have also done a ton of my own research on Friction hitches and Friction devices. It's important to recognize the differences between non slack rope climbing (on static ropes and Frictional points of attachment where potential falls would only span inches) and rock climbing on dynamic ropes with direct tie in (not frictional) where falls can span many meters. Friction hitches are expected to slip way before the strength capacity of other components of our system. Case in point: the Tautline hitch was the gold standard for arborists and it is notorious for sliding at a low force. Optimization is an art and a science.
Yup. I need to get some cord and make one of those.
I just tried it at home. And man it singes down hard after putting body weight on it. 6mm accessory cord and a 9.5mm rope. I had to completely unload it and deconstruct it backwards to get it off. It looks so smooth for you though
Use 7mm cord on 9.5mm rope. 6mm is not an ideal ratio. Here's a detailed tying video. If you still have trouble, you can post photos in the JRB Tree Climbing Facebook group. I can't verify it is tied correctly if i cannot inspect it.
ua-cam.com/video/GWp-Mu6p80Q/v-deo.htmlsi=wxghOOI7oZBw5zBx
Definitely looks easier to tie than the 5 32. I can't wait to try it.
Yes, with a pretied Longhorn in our hand, it's much easier to put on particularly after getting the optimal length of the starting loop figured out for our rope amd cord combination.
@@jrbtc I’m new to your site and it seems like JRB Ascender is a favorite for sure. Do you think this will replace it?
@@VTPharaoh7 currently, I use them both for different applications. I created a page for my favorite knots and plan to keep it updated. JRB Ascender is more compact but harder to tie. Longhorn Agile is easier to just pop on, bigger and bulkier. I like it for SRT.
jrbtreeclimbing.com/content/favorite-knots/
John I have a question if I use 6 mm accessory cord on a 8m m climbing line do you think for this hitch 6-foot would be enough to start with or would that be too long
I have updated the Length Specifications page on the website to try to help you on this question. The exact answer depends on what you're using it for. You CAN create it with as little as 5ft. 6ft will work. I recommend cutting 7ft and trimming back depending on the exact size of a loop you want.
jrbtreeclimbing.com/content/length-specs/
WELL exactly the remedy of my complaint of the agile hitch, it is difficult to move sometimes,
I tried this with Bluewater 6.5mm Dynamic Prusik cord on 8mm Oplux and it slipped, with 6 wraps it held okay but not sure how it will do if the Oplux is wet. Will try with 6mm accessory cord.
For single rope applications, i recommend and prefer larger diameter ropes, at least 9.5mm, and with a more coarse sheath, providing: 1. Greater surface area to provide the hold and 2. Less slippery when wet. I have taken my Oplux and soaked it in a bucket of water overnight just to see how friction hitches would behave the next day. And in general, I need one additional wrap when wet to get the same characteristics as when dry.
Would sterling 6mm TRC rope work as the rope to make this hitch? attaching to 8mm tether
Yes, I have tied it and TRC works well on 8mm rope. Generally speaking, TRC has a lot of grip and "memory", meaning that it holds its form and therefore is a little more effort to move than other cords, and not specific to this particular hitch. For a single rope application, 7mm cord on 9.5mm rope has noticeably better performance.
You may have to invent an antigravity hitch to beat this one...
I’ve tried this out several times at fairly low heights and feel comfortable with it now. I’m new to saddle hunting and using ropes though so I have what may be a dumb question.
Is it a bad idea to leave the hitch tied to the rope for any reason? Part of me thinks it could be a bad idea to try and tie something like this out in the dark and would rather just tie it and leave it once I know it’s right.
I leave my hitches on the rope whenever possible. We only need to remove them in order to periodically inspect or redress them.
Can we decend using only the hitch or it much safer to do a munter?
I am not saying it's impossible to rappel on only a friction hitch, but it's definitely not recommended. Use a Munter under it, ideally on a 2nd bridge. Attempting a single rope rappel on a friction hitch will: 1. Wear out the cord 100x faster. 2. Risk u get it jammed 3. Risk it starts to slip. 4. Risk it gets too hot.
In an emergency, i would at least use my foot or body to provide as much friction as possible somewhere else.
Dumb question, would this hitch possibly work with RIT 9mm on 16 braid 1/2” ?
It should. I own the RIT 6.8mm but not the 9. And it works fine on the smaller ropes I use. In fact, its even more "grippy" because of the Extra surface area. And slightly harder to break because of smaller cross section to grip it. But you would need a nice long length to tie it. And ya might only need 4 wraps instead of 5.
@@jrbtc ok cool, so the same basic mechanics may apply to other size diameters. But it should all be tested low and slow as usual. Thanks for your reply. 👌
@philosborn1840 jrbtreeclimbing.com/
I have a lot of information on the website. If you look on the page for CORD, You will see a general recommendation that most friction hitches operate best with a cord that approximately 75% the diameter of the rope.
👍👍
Looks somewhat similar to a Klemheist.
It's predecessor, the Agile Hitch, is very similar to the Klemheist. But the Longhorn Agile distributes load on both the top and the bottom of the helix and has a fixed expansion profile so as to resist jamming.