Good idea to use Tempilaq to determine correct timing for correct temperature threshold. Tempilaq is available from Brownells, MidwayUSA, Amazon, etc. Brass that is over heated hot is dangerous, too little heat is a waste of time when annealing. Tempilaq helps get correct temperature.
I used a cut down 3006 case shimmed to fit the motor shaft and then used high temp red RTV (automobile silicone sealant) on the end of the case which adds enough friction to rotate the case being annealed.
I used a cut down 3006 case shimmed to fit the motor shaft and then used high temp red RTV (automobile silicone sealant) on the end of the case which adds enough friction to rotate the case being annealed.
In all the talk about annealing technicalities, I forgot to mention that your annealing settup is very effective & efficient. A top little settup. Regards.............Rotas
I shoot F class and anneal. Annealing does have an affect on accuracy. However, just like every rifle barrel is different, I feel the same about brass. I've given up using time as a measure for the proper anneal temp. I anneal by the look of the brass after doing thousands of cases. I can tell by the way it looks when the color changes and starts to move from the neck to the shoulder. I do them to the same point on the case. ES in the single digits.
I really likd your annealer. However your metronome was set to 120 bpm in 6/4 timr which is 3 seconds in reality. Setting it to 60 bpm will yeild 1 second per beat and 60 per minute giving you the correct seconds interval you need per the tempelac. Keep up the good work and creativity and thank you for posting.
Neat setup but I think your 6 seconds is not quite accurate. Might want to recheck your metronome speed...can’t see how you get brass up to temp so quickly.
Not that it is correct, but people innocently use the two interchangeably. And, instead of focusing on a wrong word usage, how about applauding the guys ingenuity for something the rest of us would probably resort to paying a handsome amount of money for?
I can confidently state that, after doing a great deal of testing, 650 F for 6 seconds does virtually nothing in the way of annealing. Complete waste of time.
That's true. In fact, temperature is correct but case exposure time is insufficient. In that temperature, case would need to spent an hour or more. To anneal properly, case need to be heated up close to 700c (~1290F) for couple of seconds. That's from my experience.
Correct annealing depends on both time and temperature. Studies by Annealing Made Perfect found at temperatures up to 660F for 1 hour, very little annealing in neck, at 750F for 1 hour, neck was annealed from the original 135 HV down to 117HV mid wall of case neck and 85HV at edges of neck wall. For "flash annealing" at short time intervals, fairly high temperature is required for proper annealing. The time and temperature for correct flash annealing will vary with case caliber and case head stamp. As an example, Annealing Made Perfect annealed a .223 Win remington case in 3.4 seconds with peak temperature of 1000 F.... a harder case like Lake City .223 Win or a larger case like .300 Win Mag would likely take longer time to anneal.
@@kondzio99999 Yes, the interval of annealing time is also important...as an extreme example Annealing Made Perfect found case head Vickers hardness values decline from 214 HV down to 96HV after cases were 1-hour in an oven at 750F.
@@RetrieverTrainingAloneThe entire annealing philosophy needs re-evaluating. For example; "the original" hardness of virgin brass. AMP treat it as if it's some special benchmark when, in reality, it's simply the hardness the brass attained after the final extrusion process. It's not an original of anything, it just is what it is, there's nothing special about it. If there ever was something specific about the hardness of virgin brass, it would have been that it wasn't too soft for the specific purposes of the case manufacturers which, have nothing to do with hand loaders. Ofcourse, this is by no means the fault of AMP. They, like everybody else, have been corralled by the tongue to asshole pressure of the so called experts into joining the toss fest of the "annealing club" Regards................Rotas
Nice, most simple and easiest to build I've seen!
Gotta say that’s pretty ingenious 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼hopefully you will be able to sleep after listening to that sound for hours 🤣😂🤣
Near as I could tell you did not leave it for 6 sec.,4 was about what I counted!
Great build. However the timer would drive me crazy.
Love the simple design. Only suggestion would be to put tempilaq inside the case neck to avoid false reading.
Классно придумал Братишка!!! 👍👍👍 Голову сломал как сделать, теперь понял СПАСИБО!
I have read where in a dark room a dull red glow at the neck opening signifies the best anneal temp. Can you validate that with your rig and tempelaq?
I have used the same 'dark room dull red', system & feel I have good results but confirmation here would be great.
Good idea to use Tempilaq to determine correct timing for correct temperature threshold. Tempilaq is available from Brownells, MidwayUSA, Amazon, etc. Brass that is over heated hot is dangerous, too little heat is a waste of time when annealing. Tempilaq helps get correct temperature.
Well done, thank you for sharing this idea!
Very nice and useful tool for reloading!! Thanks for sharing!
@fjfudpacker
is there measurments you can provide for your annealer?
Годнота.
You are one smart American. I like your anneal er.
I can not figure out how the rotation from the motor gets transferred to the case or case holder. How does it engage and disengage...?
I used a cut down 3006 case shimmed to fit the motor shaft and then used high temp red RTV (automobile silicone sealant) on the end of the case which adds enough friction to rotate the case being annealed.
Quickest 6 seconds I’ve ever seen! Lol.
What is on the end of the motor shaft that the cartridge sits on to make it rotate?
I used a cut down 3006 case shimmed to fit the motor shaft and then used high temp red RTV (automobile silicone sealant) on the end of the case which adds enough friction to rotate the case being annealed.
My kinda machine 😁👍🇺🇸... I'll be building one soon 😎👍 thanks 👍
I’d like to see how the motor turn the brass
I used a cut down shell casing mounted to the motor shaft with High temp RTV coating on the base of the case to add traction.
In all the talk about annealing technicalities, I forgot to mention that your annealing settup is very effective & efficient. A top little settup.
Regards.............Rotas
I shoot F class and anneal. Annealing does have an affect on accuracy. However, just like every rifle barrel is different, I feel the same about brass. I've given up using time as a measure for the proper anneal temp. I anneal by the look of the brass after doing thousands of cases. I can tell by the way it looks when the color changes and starts to move from the neck to the shoulder. I do them to the same point on the case. ES in the single digits.
Which app do you using?...Thanks!
Many guitar tuner apps have a metronome feature
Pro Metronome but any metronome app that is adjustable should work.
I really likd your annealer. However your metronome was set to 120 bpm in 6/4 timr which is 3 seconds in reality. Setting it to 60 bpm will yeild 1 second per beat and 60 per minute giving you the correct seconds interval you need per the tempelac. Keep up the good work and creativity and thank you for posting.
Neat setup but I think your 6 seconds is not quite accurate. Might want to recheck your metronome speed...can’t see how you get brass up to temp so quickly.
I LIKE IT!
Excellent!
when the brass starts to turn pink is when you need to stop heating
Definitely not enough time, you're running them for about 3 seconds, you need about 8.
all this and doesn't know the difference between a case and a cartridge
Not that it is correct, but people innocently use the two interchangeably. And, instead of focusing on a wrong word usage, how about applauding the guys ingenuity for something the rest of us would probably resort to paying a handsome amount of money for?
Nice comment Matt Corbel
, very helpful. You must make a 30 minute video to educate the world with your vast knowledge.
@@SDMacMan I don't think you have the attention span to watch a 30 minute technical video.
Pray tell, what is the difference betwixt a case & a cartridge within the context of this conversation?
I can confidently state that, after doing a great deal of testing, 650 F for 6 seconds does virtually nothing in the way of annealing.
Complete waste of time.
That's true. In fact, temperature is correct but case exposure time is insufficient. In that temperature, case would need to spent an hour or more. To anneal properly, case need to be heated up close to 700c (~1290F) for couple of seconds. That's from my experience.
Correct annealing depends on both time and temperature. Studies by Annealing Made Perfect found at temperatures up to 660F for 1 hour, very little annealing in neck, at 750F for 1 hour, neck was annealed from the original 135 HV down to 117HV mid wall of case neck and 85HV at edges of neck wall. For "flash annealing" at short time intervals, fairly high temperature is required for proper annealing. The time and temperature for correct flash annealing will vary with case caliber and case head stamp. As an example, Annealing Made Perfect annealed a .223 Win remington case in 3.4 seconds with peak temperature of 1000 F.... a harder case like Lake City .223 Win or a larger case like .300 Win Mag would likely take longer time to anneal.
@@RetrieverTrainingAlone Erik Cortina did some testing recently, where he heated up necks till it got red hot. Results were not so obvious.
@@kondzio99999 Yes, the interval of annealing time is also important...as an extreme example Annealing Made Perfect found case head Vickers hardness values decline from 214 HV down to 96HV after cases were 1-hour in an oven at 750F.
@@RetrieverTrainingAloneThe entire annealing philosophy needs re-evaluating. For example; "the original" hardness of virgin brass. AMP treat it as if it's some special benchmark when, in reality, it's simply the hardness the brass attained after the final extrusion process. It's not an original of anything, it just is what it is, there's nothing special about it. If there ever was something specific about the hardness of virgin brass, it would have been that it wasn't too soft for the specific purposes of the case manufacturers which, have nothing to do with hand loaders.
Ofcourse, this is by no means the fault of AMP. They, like everybody else, have been corralled by the tongue to asshole pressure of the so called experts into joining the toss fest of the "annealing club"
Regards................Rotas