Never really thought about trying different positions to see which gives the best result I always just assumed my chainring might be slightly bent. Great video as always, keep it up!
Just before I watched this video, I actually solved my wobbly chainring by this exact method, I thought my chain ring was cheap quality, but now it seems that every chain ring is like that. I have generally seen that motorcycle and car parts are much better engineered than cycle parts, they have much finer tolerances for drive shafts, etc, no matter how much you pay for cycle parts. Though their wheels are very wobbly, cycle wheels are much better in that area. Thanks for this video! Amazing like always.
What a great vid. I solved my problem after watching this simple procedure. One caveat: please check that all of your chain ring bolts are properly tightened FIRST before following the procedure shown. Two of my bolts that adjacent to each other had to be tightened a quarter turn each. That made the rest of the procedure more accurate.
It works. Thanks!! So I wonder what does this mean. Would that be the orientation that gives the least wobble is also the one used to check for the chain ring perpendicularity in making the crank shaft?
I replaced my chain and disassembled my chainrings to clean them, put them back together and remembered this video and gained about 20 rpm on my average cadence.
Thanks alot. It worked! I was installing a new crankset on a new octalink bb. I thought at first i have a deformed crankset, tried a second one and still wobbled, tried your methode and it worked!
Thank you for this. I crashed my bike back in the summer and now have it on my trainer. Am noticing some movement in the chain. Going to inspect to see if it is bent or try this method.
Great video RJ! How would you tighten or change the chainrings on a vintage bike? The Park Tool Chainring Nut Wrench, CNW-2 doesn't work on my vintage Shimano XTR M952 crankset chainring back-end nuts. Please tell which tool I would need to fit a vintage Shimano XTR M952 crankset? I have been researching for a few days now. Thank you!😀
I have a 2013 Diamondback Podium 2 with a sealed cartridge bottom bracket. Do you have any advice on how much I should torque it down when I reinstall the cranks in a correct position with less wobble?
So by rotating the crank 180 degrees wouldn't that basically just change the wobble by 180 ? Whats the dynamic that's actually working here? Thanks in advance
I had the same issue, I measured from the inner side of the spider (crank) to the middle of the chain-stay turning the crank 12, 3, 6, 9 O'clock. At each turn the measurements were exactly the same. I then repeated the process measuring the distance from the chainring (s) to the middle of the chain-stay (You've guessed it) They're out by a good few millimetres. I'm about to loosen (adjust) and retighten the 5 chainring bolts (Wish me luck) and hopefully I'll be able to lose the slight oval effect of the chainrings too. Thanks for reading. The "other" bike guy.
@RJTheBikeGuy - What is the cause of this issue? is the bottom bracket pedal spindle bent? or is the chainring crank arm bent? I'm dealing with this same issue but way more wobble, causing chain skipping everytime the chaingring arm rotates to the bent section. I checked the chainrings and they are not bent at all, its just when I rotate the crank arm that I see major wobble in one section. I've researched so much and can't find much information on this issue. I tried what you did in this video but still can't get it straightened out, which is leaving me to believe that the Bottom Bracket Spindle is bent. Would love to hear feedback from anyone with and suggestions or in-depth video on this issue because it is a major problem right now. thx
I think I saw your vid about how to take of the crankset without a puller. Think it's best to be patient and just get the proper tool don't want to f up the spindle or other components by banging stuff out.
thank you for all your videos. is it possible that a bent derailleur hanger could contribute to wobble? i have replaced my bb, cranks, chain, and front derailleur. all needed replacing and things are better, but still a pesky little wobble remains.
Good video. On my 1992 Schwinn Paramount, the teeth of the Shimano 105 crank's 39T small ring is about 2mm from the chainstay. I was told that on my old bikes, this was the norm and as long there wasn't any evidence of chainring wiggle, it was okay. Seems 2mm isn't very much wiggle room at all, what's you're input? Second question, as a project I picked up an old 1980's Italian steel frame. Besides measuring the length of the bottom bracket to determine what size BB to get, do you determine spindle length by the rear wheel's cassette? Thank you.
The length of the BB is usually part of the specs of the crankset. So try looking up the specs of the crankset. Or try getting a BB with a slightly longer spindle.
So, if you can't get any positions to fix the wobble are you SOL? Would a new crankset fix the wobble, then or just scrap the bike? I got schwinn to send me a new crank set when I first bought the bike.. never thought I'd need to use it..
RJ The Bike Guy won't know which until the positions are tried to eliminate the crankset bolt position as the culprit, pretty sure it's not the chain itself. the crank rings are part of the crank and not really serviceable
This works due to machining/molding difference in the square taper spindle/crank arm. I don't think octalink will have the same issues as this, so I don't think it will make much difference.
@@RJTheBikeGuy I mean what else it could be ? It's a new merida 200 with sora 2018. It's frustrating!! I checked all the bicycles in store where i got mine and all have the same kind of issue.
Hey. I recently saw my vintage Peugeot performance 20 ofmega chainrings wobble. I tried all 4 positions and its almost same but little bit better than it was but it still keeps wobbling. I don't think chainrings are bent because it does that on small and big chainrings. What you think I should try to do?
i've had this problem lots on some of my low end bikes (btwin 340, giant atx 2 and my diamondback overdrive 2013) and have always has this problem. is this because of components that is not very durable or does it just happen with any bike. i've only had my giant for about and year and im already seeing signs of wobbling, is this due to a low end part?
Hi @RJ The Bike Guy, I had the same problem, and tried this method, but I think that one of the spider arms is out of true. How could I go about fixing that?
It could be the bottom bracket, or the spider, or a bent chain ring. You can possibly straighten a bent chain ring. The spider or the bottom bracket will need to be replaced.
My bottom bracket was loose and wobbly so I replaced the spindle and bearings, The spindle I took out had bad wear on it and the grease was dry and crumbly. After fitting the new spindle with plenty of grease it felt good but after a month it's back to being wobbly. I did tighten up the locking ring a little which fixed it for a while but it's gone back to wobble.What could be the problem? I am thinking it's not a good idea to tighten it up because either something is getting worn in there or the bearings will end up getting crushed or should i just switch to a sealed cartridge.
+paul sha You can try a cartridge BB. It could be the faces of your BB shell are not parallel and causing wear in your BB. So maybe getting them faced might help. Or not. Maybe the issue your crankset...the faces inside the arm maybe damaged.
@@NoEcologyNoEconomy No. The bottom bracket taper is not exact on all four sides. In addition the taper in the crank is not exact, so when you try all four positions you will find one position that works better overall at reducing wobble.
The crankset isn't oval, the chain rings are. They mount on the cranks the same way as round ones except you need to have then oriented correctly. The rear derailleur is not effected. The front derailleur is the same except you have to mount it in relation to the widest point of the chainring. It's mostly the same.
checked, its tight. when rotating the crank freely ( without the chain ), the crank moves in and out. I suspect a bent rod that connects both arms,( is it possible!!? ) correct if I m wrong
So I tried, this method but my crankset keeps rubbing against the bike frame. It's one of those old Shimano Biospace sets if that helps. Would it be the crankset or the bottom bracket
Personally I would check to see if the chain is stretched beyond 100% (there is a tool to do this). A stretched chain can also be the cause of "chain wobble"; so get a new chain if its stretched beyond 100%.
How do I fix a wobble in the bottom bracket? Mine has been wobbling for ages but now my drive side pedal is pedaling weird after sliding in the wet today. But I can't see any issues with the crank, pedal or cog.
@@RJTheBikeGuy I finally got my bottom bracket opened up but after inspection, I couldn't find anything that would be responsible for that right pedal "wobble" feeling when I pedal. I suspect that when I slid out on my side, my right pedal crank took a hit that may have dented or deformed the square hole that goes on the square taper. I'll try swapping out that pedal crank. I have a question about the tool you use to remove the fixed cup side. What is the name of that wrench exactly? Where can I get it? I've been using a large spindle wrench but the amount of times that thing slipped off drove me to near insanity. I'm looking online for that tool but can't find anything like what you have.
Hi my problem is that my left arm when pushed inwards ( I am facing the bike from the left side of the bike ) causes the whole crankset to wobble. but if I push the right arm inwards, there's no such wobble. my bike is a huffy rival 26".
when i rotate the crankset, the entire shaft wobbles. Do i need to buy a new crankset or should i just buy a new shaft/spindle? the set came stock with the bike (cheap, shop built and i cant remember the labels cause it's a bit old)
Remove the cranks and see if the spindle by itself wobbles. If yes, replace it. You might upgrade to a sealed cartridge bottom bracket if it doesn't already have one. If the spindle doesn't wobble, try the steps in this video.
With a square taper spindle, there are four faces. The faces aren't all at exactly the same angle. There will be slight variations. There are also slight variations in the faces inside the crank. So by rotating, you find the face that offers the least wobble.
just so you know you are using both adjustable wrenches backwards the jaws are supposed to be the other way if it was a stubborn bolt you would break the wrenches.
@@RJTheBikeGuy it was not a matter of the wrenches working its a matter of using tools properly, in a way that they are meant to be used I guess you cannot take constructive criticism
Here is another vid I did on removing the cranks. How To Remove/Install Crank Arms On A Bike But basically turned the large threaded part in till it stops. Then hold it and turn the small part in. It will get tight at first. Keep turning it in until it pulls the crank off.
shyflirt1 I used a crank arm puller tool--I tightened the larger part by hand, then the smaller part, then while holding the larger thread, I turned the smaller nut clockwise but it only became tighter, and the crankarm seems like it won't be coming off anytime soon :|
@@RJTheBikeGuy never mind the bottom bracket, but the chainring is brand new yet it still wobbles like my old one and keeps hitting the derailleur on a point.
@@RJTheBikeGuy bought it off let go. It's a 28" aluminum Schwinn 29er, 60 bucks it looks brand new couldn't pass it up. I'm going to bring it in for maintenance and hope for the best. Thank you Bike Guy
You can either take it to a shop and have them fix it, or start working through the issues. I can't diagnose it without working on it. I have a lot of videos on various things.
@@RJTheBikeGuy alright. i recently went to a bike shop before finding this video and they really insisted i buy a new crankset even if i told them i dont suspect it because it doesnt seem to be bent at all and i recently also changed my bottom bracket from a different bike shop so im about to do it myself
RJ The Bike Guy btw would you have a video on how to index a front derailleur i have been trying for weeks now with no luck i have cleaned and relubed shifters and the chain and i have replaced cables but i am still haveing trouble with my bike (learsport bw3000) not shifting up into 3rd gear at the front when on 7th gear at the back (max).
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Never really thought about trying different positions to see which gives the best result I always just assumed my chainring might be slightly bent. Great video as always, keep it up!
Brilliant tip. I tried this the other day and it has turned a 1/4” wobble into a barely perceptible wobble. Thank you!
Just before I watched this video, I actually solved my wobbly chainring by this exact method, I thought my chain ring was cheap quality, but now it seems that every chain ring is like that. I have generally seen that motorcycle and car parts are much better engineered than cycle parts, they have much finer tolerances for drive shafts, etc, no matter how much you pay for cycle parts. Though their wheels are very wobbly, cycle wheels are much better in that area. Thanks for this video! Amazing like always.
What a gem of a tip. I have a Cannondale Topstone sora. The chainring wobble bugged me. Got round to doing this and it’s now perfect!!
Thank you👍
What a great vid. I solved my problem after watching this simple procedure. One caveat: please check that all of your chain ring bolts are properly tightened FIRST before following the procedure shown. Two of my bolts that adjacent to each other had to be tightened a quarter turn each. That made the rest of the procedure more accurate.
Buddy of mine had $450 cranks that wobbled and thought they weren't straight. This answers his dilemma. Thanks RJ.
Oh my gosh this worked, thank you! I feel sorry for the folks dropping dough on new square tapered cranksets (and BBs) without first watching this!!
😂 don’t lie to yourself you did it too 😂
Rj never disapoints, ill try it out immediately!
Edit: flippin worked, no more chainrub ❤
It works. Thanks!! So I wonder what does this mean. Would that be the orientation that gives the least wobble is also the one used to check for the chain ring perpendicularity in making the crank shaft?
I replaced my chain and disassembled my chainrings to clean them, put them back together and remembered this video and gained about 20 rpm on my average cadence.
Thanks alot. It worked! I was installing a new crankset on a new octalink bb. I thought at first i have a deformed crankset, tried a second one and still wobbled, tried your methode and it worked!
Thank you so much for this video, it helped me a lot, and saved me from buying a new drive set!
Bro you saved my pocket today, this fix worked as charm.
Yet again you have an answer to my problems. Off now to twist my cranks, ta Bike Guy
Thank you for this. I crashed my bike back in the summer and now have it on my trainer. Am noticing some movement in the chain. Going to inspect to see if it is bent or try this method.
Thank you sir, I managed to fix the wobble thanks to your helpful video 🎉
You're the best RJ.
I’ve got a trek verve 1 I just noticed it has some significant wobble, what would you recommend I do next? The Allen keys are pretty tight.
Really great tip! But only works on (vintage) square taper
Great video RJ!
How would you tighten or change the chainrings on a vintage bike?
The Park Tool Chainring Nut Wrench, CNW-2 doesn't work on my vintage Shimano XTR M952 crankset chainring back-end nuts.
Please tell which tool I would need to fit a vintage Shimano XTR M952 crankset?
I have been researching for a few days now.
Thank you!😀
Thanks for your videos man, your a wizard!!!
I will try soon. Thank you!
I have a 2013 Diamondback Podium 2 with a sealed cartridge bottom bracket.
Do you have any advice on how much I should torque it down when I reinstall the cranks in a correct position with less wobble?
So by rotating the crank 180 degrees wouldn't that basically just change the wobble by 180 ? Whats the dynamic that's actually working here? Thanks in advance
Imperfections in the machining of the spindle and the crank arm.
I had the same issue, I measured from the inner side of the spider (crank) to the middle of the chain-stay turning the crank 12, 3, 6, 9 O'clock. At each turn the measurements were exactly the same. I then repeated the process measuring the distance from the chainring (s) to the middle of the chain-stay (You've guessed it) They're out by a good few millimetres. I'm about to loosen (adjust) and retighten the 5 chainring bolts (Wish me luck) and hopefully I'll be able to lose the slight oval effect of the chainrings too. Thanks for reading.
The "other" bike guy.
Could be bent chain rings.
This worked for me, thank you!
So what actually causes it to wobble in the first place?
Great vid enjoyed it very much might help me fix my bicycle
@RJTheBikeGuy - What is the cause of this issue?
is the bottom bracket pedal spindle bent? or is the chainring crank arm bent?
I'm dealing with this same issue but way more wobble, causing chain skipping everytime the chaingring arm rotates to the bent section. I checked the chainrings and they are not bent at all, its just when I rotate the crank arm that I see major wobble in one section.
I've researched so much and can't find much information on this issue.
I tried what you did in this video but still can't get it straightened out, which is leaving me to believe that the Bottom Bracket Spindle is bent.
Would love to hear feedback from anyone with and suggestions or in-depth video on this issue because it is a major problem right now. thx
Hey man, that was very helpful. I owe you a beer or two.
Yep
I think I saw your vid about how to take of the crankset without a puller. Think it's best to be patient and just get the proper tool don't want to f up the spindle or other components by banging stuff out.
I fully recommend this video 😊..working barefooted not so much 🤔
Thanks alot for this tip it has reduced the wobble alot
thank u very much for the free fix
Damn. It worked!!!! Thank you so much!!!!!
thank you for all your videos. is it possible that a bent derailleur hanger could contribute to wobble? i have replaced my bb, cranks, chain, and front derailleur. all needed replacing and things are better, but still a pesky little wobble remains.
No.
RJ is there a way to fix the same issue on an octalink bottom bracket and crank?
Damn, what an awesome tip!!
thats good, video,.well done
thanks for the info just sorted my wobble thanks to this vid
Good video. On my 1992 Schwinn Paramount, the teeth of the Shimano 105 crank's 39T small ring is about 2mm from the chainstay. I was told that on my old bikes, this was the norm and as long there wasn't any evidence of chainring wiggle, it was okay. Seems 2mm isn't very much wiggle room at all, what's you're input? Second question, as a project I picked up an old 1980's Italian steel frame. Besides measuring the length of the bottom bracket to determine what size BB to get, do you determine spindle length by the rear wheel's cassette? Thank you.
The length of the BB is usually part of the specs of the crankset. So try looking up the specs of the crankset. Or try getting a BB with a slightly longer spindle.
@@RJTheBikeGuy Great idea, thank you.
So, if you can't get any positions to fix the wobble are you SOL? Would a new crankset fix the wobble, then or just scrap the bike? I got schwinn to send me a new crank set when I first bought the bike.. never thought I'd need to use it..
It could be a bent chain ring. It could be the crankset. It could be the bottom bracket spindle
RJ The Bike Guy won't know which until the positions are tried to eliminate the crankset bolt position as the culprit, pretty sure it's not the chain itself. the crank rings are part of the crank and not really serviceable
Hi. Thanks for video. Can I use the same methode for an octalink shimano?
This works due to machining/molding difference in the square taper spindle/crank arm. I don't think octalink will have the same issues as this, so I don't think it will make much difference.
@@RJTheBikeGuy Could it be due to minor angle imperfection of bottom bracket housing?
@@RJTheBikeGuy I mean what else it could be ? It's a new merida 200 with sora 2018. It's frustrating!! I checked all the bicycles in store where i got mine and all have the same kind of issue.
@@NickiKhonsari Could be something bent. BB, spindle, crank, or chain ring. No it wouldn't be the shell, as that wouldn't cause wobble.
@@RJTheBikeGuy Thanks alot for your reply
Hey. I recently saw my vintage Peugeot performance 20 ofmega chainrings wobble. I tried all 4 positions and its almost same but little bit better than it was but it still keeps wobbling. I don't think chainrings are bent because it does that on small and big chainrings. What you think I should try to do?
If you tried the above steps, and the chainrings aren't bent, it could be the BB is damaged. Try overhauling it with new bearings, or replacing it.
Hi Very useful tip.
I gotta try this. Was suspecting a bad bb axle at first after tightening the locknuts.
Great, you've done a great service to cyclist all over the world diseminating this know how information
I have square tapered 3-piece crank, would this help with the wobble?
Great video
i've had this problem lots on some of my low end bikes (btwin 340, giant atx 2 and my diamondback overdrive 2013) and have always has this problem. is this because of components that is not very durable or does it just happen with any bike. i've only had my giant for about and year and im already seeing signs of wobbling, is this due to a low end part?
The fix in this video is for variations in the manufacturing processes. I don't know why you are seeing wobbling. Maybe something is worn or bent.
Hi @RJ The Bike Guy,
I had the same problem, and tried this method, but I think that one of the spider arms is out of true. How could I go about fixing that?
It could be the bottom bracket, or the spider, or a bent chain ring. You can possibly straighten a bent chain ring. The spider or the bottom bracket will need to be replaced.
Ok, thanks. Should I be worried about the few mm of wobble? Or is it fine to leave it until I can afford a new set of cranks?
In my case it was the bottom bracket, bearings were damaged
Great video. Don't drop that wrench on your toes!!!
My bottom bracket was loose and wobbly so I replaced the spindle and bearings, The spindle I took out had bad wear on it and the grease was dry and crumbly. After fitting the new spindle with plenty of grease it felt good but after a month it's back to being wobbly. I did tighten up the locking ring a little which fixed it for a while but it's gone back to wobble.What could be the problem? I am thinking it's not a good idea to tighten it up because either something is getting worn in there or the bearings will end up getting crushed or should i just switch to a sealed cartridge.
+paul sha You can try a cartridge BB. It could be the faces of your BB shell are not parallel and causing wear in your BB. So maybe getting them faced might help. Or not. Maybe the issue your crankset...the faces inside the arm maybe damaged.
This only seems practical in random cases. What caused the ring to wobble in the first place, its own warp, or wear on the center bolt?
Imperfections in the manufacturing process. This is actually not uncommon.
So the ring warps over time, the bolt, both?
@@NoEcologyNoEconomy No. The bottom bracket taper is not exact on all four sides. In addition the taper in the crank is not exact, so when you try all four positions you will find one position that works better overall at reducing wobble.
Can you make a video on how to mount an oval crankset? I mean: which derailleur should be the best and the other issues.
The crankset isn't oval, the chain rings are. They mount on the cranks the same way as round ones except you need to have then oriented correctly. The rear derailleur is not effected. The front derailleur is the same except you have to mount it in relation to the widest point of the chainring. It's mostly the same.
checked, its tight. when rotating the crank freely ( without the chain ), the crank moves in and out.
I suspect a bent rod that connects both arms,( is it possible!!? ) correct if I m wrong
+mohammed abdul moiz As I said, you shouldn't be able to push your crank arms in and out. Something is messed up in your bottom bracket.
So I tried, this method but my crankset keeps rubbing against the bike frame. It's one of those old Shimano Biospace sets if that helps. Would it be the crankset or the bottom bracket
Sounds like your bottom bracket spindle is too short for your crankset.
to clarify, the inner chainring is the one that is rubbing against the frame.
Sounds like your bottom bracket spindle is too short for your crankset.
Personally I would check to see if the chain is stretched beyond 100% (there is a tool to do this). A stretched chain can also be the cause of "chain wobble"; so get a new chain if its stretched beyond 100%.
Why does a crankset starts to wooble? I have the same problem with my crankset but I didn"t use to have this problem before...
Maybe loose. Damaged spindle.
It really helps me
Have you ever done a video on how to repair a bike when the chain stops between the two front chain rings and slips?
Nope. Never had that. Sounds like you have too thin of chain for your crankset.
Thanks. I was worried it was my bottom bracket.
How do I fix a wobble in the bottom bracket? Mine has been wobbling for ages but now my drive side pedal is pedaling weird after sliding in the wet today. But I can't see any issues with the crank, pedal or cog.
Then probably overhaul or replace the bottom bracket.
@@RJTheBikeGuy I finally got my bottom bracket opened up but after inspection, I couldn't find anything that would be responsible for that right pedal "wobble" feeling when I pedal. I suspect that when I slid out on my side, my right pedal crank took a hit that may have dented or deformed the square hole that goes on the square taper. I'll try swapping out that pedal crank.
I have a question about the tool you use to remove the fixed cup side. What is the name of that wrench exactly? Where can I get it? I've been using a large spindle wrench but the amount of times that thing slipped off drove me to near insanity. I'm looking online for that tool but can't find anything like what you have.
@@myscreen2urs There are different bottom bracket tools. I have a tool page here: www.rjthebikeguy.com/tools/
Is it really that simple?
thx god, i tot i m the only one think is that simple, lol
have u try this method?
@@munseng1106 Ya, it worked.
Can anyone explain exactly why this works? How does rotating the crank within the axis of use alter the "wobble" in and out of this axis?
Because the faces on the spindle and inside the crank arm are not perfect.
Hi
my problem is that my left arm when pushed inwards ( I am facing the bike from the left side of the bike ) causes the whole crankset to wobble. but if I push the right arm inwards, there's no such wobble. my bike is a huffy rival 26".
+mohammed abdul moiz Sounds like you bottom bracket is loose because you shouldn't be able to push in the crank arms.
+RJ The Bike Guy thanks
Can anyone explain why this helps? Is the square shaft bent?
What you are saying is that the main shaft is not machined properly?
when i rotate the crankset, the entire shaft wobbles. Do i need to buy a new crankset or should i just buy a new shaft/spindle? the set came stock with the bike (cheap, shop built and i cant remember the labels cause it's a bit old)
Remove the cranks and see if the spindle by itself wobbles. If yes, replace it. You might upgrade to a sealed cartridge bottom bracket if it doesn't already have one. If the spindle doesn't wobble, try the steps in this video.
how does switching the crank arms in different positions get rid of wobble?
With a square taper spindle, there are four faces. The faces aren't all at exactly the same angle. There will be slight variations. There are also slight variations in the faces inside the crank. So by rotating, you find the face that offers the least wobble.
so is the wobble caused by use and wear?
and thank u for the info
Well I'll be darned...it worked.
Just use a long screw driver to bend it in or out to straighten it
Is it normal that the chain is rubbing to the derailleur?
just so you know you are using both adjustable wrenches backwards the jaws are supposed to be the other way if it was a stubborn bolt you would break the wrenches.
I was wondering why the wrenches didn't work. Wait a minute...They did work. Total surprise.
@@RJTheBikeGuy it was not a matter of the wrenches working its a matter of using tools properly, in a way that they are meant to be used I guess you cannot take constructive criticism
At 1:53 it just gets tighter and tighter, even though I'm going clockwise like you did!
Here is another vid I did on removing the cranks. How To Remove/Install Crank Arms On A Bike
But basically turned the large threaded part in till it stops. Then hold it and turn the small part in. It will get tight at first. Keep turning it in until it pulls the crank off.
shyflirt1 I used a crank arm puller tool--I tightened the larger part by hand, then the smaller part, then while holding the larger thread, I turned the smaller nut clockwise but it only became tighter, and the crankarm seems like it won't be coming off anytime soon :|
Update: I went to my local bike shop and they kindly volunteered their time to help me out. It's all fixed now!
Nice.
So basically you just change the position of the crankset? It's that easy? My set is wobbling very badly.
My middle chain ring is bent, so I will have to straighten it out before being done.
Does this only work if you have a square spindle?
Yes.
Plz help my whole front gears and pedals are loose and really wobbly so the chain is popping alot
Sound like the bottom bracket is loose. Or the cranks are loose. Or something. I can't tell you as I haven't worked on your bike.
Could this be done with a chain ring for a single speed? the pedal arms are one piece...
No. They don't work the same way.
no protective shoes?
How do you pedal with to crank arns in the same position?
I have a brand new crankset and it still wobbles. I also had a brand new bottom bracket but it is a bit longer than its slot.
New bottom bracket but it's longer than what slot? Sounds like wrong parts, or installed wrong.
@@RJTheBikeGuy some of it is showing outside the Bottom bracket slot
@@TheTriangle444 I can't really tell you much without seeing it.
@@RJTheBikeGuy never mind the bottom bracket, but the chainring is brand new yet it still wobbles like my old one and keeps hitting the derailleur on a point.
@@TheTriangle444 I can't diagnose it without working on it. Take it to a shop, or figure it out.
The THIRD position? Are you sure it's ok to say that?
My whole drive train is screwed and it's almost brand new, any advice?
If the bike is new, and screwed up, take it back to the shop where you bought it.
@@RJTheBikeGuy bought it off let go. It's a 28" aluminum Schwinn 29er, 60 bucks it looks brand new couldn't pass it up. I'm going to bring it in for maintenance and hope for the best. Thank you Bike Guy
You can either take it to a shop and have them fix it, or start working through the issues. I can't diagnose it without working on it. I have a lot of videos on various things.
Go ahead
when you pedal down, chainring moves to the right...the likely cause is BB.
Not in this case.
Also check your crank isn't loose too...
Sir in my cycle the chainline is notcorrect ?so what i will do
And the chain falls down from the front low gear
I don't have enough details to give an answer.
What is the soentific explanation behind this ?
In and out? In and out? Bro thats barely anything comoared to my marine quasar. That boy go left to right, right to left.
You can tell this is one of his old videos
is that one of the reason why my bike make noise everytime im pedalling hard?
ua-cam.com/video/84YpHC6523s/v-deo.html
Did you find your problem? The reason why your bike was making noise when pedaling hard?
What if i dont have that specific parktool?
Then buy some other brand tool. If you don't have tool, take it to a shop and pay them more than the tools costs.
@@RJTheBikeGuy alright. i recently went to a bike shop before finding this video and they really insisted i buy a new crankset even if i told them i dont suspect it because it doesnt seem to be bent at all and i recently also changed my bottom bracket from a different bike shop so im about to do it myself
tap it out with a hammer just like you tap it in, just watch you dont bend your crank that way
what's the difference how the crank is put on won't it still look bent and wobble in and out from the derailleur?
The mating surfaces of the spindle and crank arm are not perfect. There are variations. So generally some combinations will be better than others.
RJ The Bike Guy oh ok thanks for the quick reply
RJ The Bike Guy btw would you have a video on how to index a front derailleur i have been trying for weeks now with no luck i have cleaned and relubed shifters and the chain and i have replaced cables but i am still haveing trouble with my bike (learsport bw3000) not shifting up into 3rd gear at the front when on 7th gear at the back (max).
Around 19 minutes in.
ua-cam.com/video/f1vSHauv1VY/v-deo.html
You may need to adjust the cable and/or limiting screw.
For me I marked the spot it was touching at, and it turned out to be one chain link haha
*hey there viewers. I fixed it for ya
Will this work on a isis system?
Unlikely.
Ok