The AUDI RS4 B7 Buyers Guide
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- Опубліковано 19 тра 2024
- ALL the common issues you need to know if you're looking to buy a b7 Audi RS 4.
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As an owner, I have experienced some of these issues! Suspension and clutch but overall the car has been incredibly reliable, nearly 200,000km all in the rough Australian outback and I have been shocked with its amazing reliability. Never let me down.
agreed in Canada love mine to death 02 sensor fun whip reliable as hell 160000 on mine running like a top
Do u know the difference between the s5 4.2 b8 and rs4 4.2 b7 is it the same engine wirh different ecu tunes ?
@@callumterblanche1491 from my understanding, they are the same engine with small differences, but they're pretty much the same engine
@@callumterblanche1491 crank is different heads are different a lot is different to allow the hp per litre and the rev limit of the motor just google it :)
It's a LOT more than that
Here is a full rundown. Apart from sharing the same capacity and block, there is very little resemblance between the two
The main technical differences between the base engine and the high-revving engine lie in the following:
* Crankshaft/connecting rods/pistons
* Timing gear
* Cylinder head
* Oil supply
* Engine cooling
* Intake path
* Exhaust system
* Engine management
The cylinder crankcase of the high-revving engine was machined to higher specifications due to the higher stresses in this component. To minimize warping of the cylinder manifolds, the crankcase is honed under stress. For this purpose, a honing template is attached to the crankcase before the honing process in order to simulate the warping of the bolted-on cylinder manifold.
Modifications to High-revving Engine
At very high engine speeds, axial vibration occurs due to the unbalance in the single-mass damper. This can cause the crankshaft to break.
To avoid this vibration, a dual-mass damper without unbalance is employed in the high-revving engine. To compensate for unwanted engine vibration, heavy metal inserts are integrated in the first and eighth crank journals by way of unbalance.
Connecting Rod
Cracked connecting rods made of 36MnVS4 are used in the basic engine, while the conventionally split connecting rods in the RS4 engine are made of 34CrNiMo8, for strength.
In addition, the geometry and tolerances of the
connecting rods were reduced on the high revving version of the 4.2L V8 FSI engine.
Bearing journals diameter: 54 mm
Bearing bushings: 1.4 mm thick, 15.25 mm wide
Length of bushing: 0.20 mm diameter rolled
Connecting rod length: 154 mm
Piston
For strength reasons, forged pistons with a slightly higher weight than conventional pistons, are used. Both engines have the same piston geometry.
Piston weight without rings: approximately 290 g (10 oz)
Piston pin: 0.20 mm x 0.11.5 mm x 40 mm
High-revving Engine
* 3/8" simplex sleeve-type chains are used here. Their advantage is their reduced wear and higher stress resistance at high engine speeds. In this case the idler gears have 38 and 19 teeth. The camshaft sprockets have 25 teeth.
Different Features of the High-revving Engine
* To match the higher engine power output and RPM, the following cylinder head components were modified:
* Intake ports are charge optimized (based on larger cross-sections)
* Intake valves are chrome-plated hollow stem valves (for weight reduction)
* Valve springs are made of a material with higher tensile strength and also have higher spring force
* To meet the higher fuel requirements, the injectors are designed for higher flow rates.
* Roller rocker arms are more robustly designed, with peened rollers for higher strength
* Camshafts have different timings and larger opening lengths
* Intake valve opening angle 230 crank angle degrees
* Exhaust valve opening angle 220 crank angle degrees
* The lifters were adapted from the 3.2L V6 engine found in the TT and A3. They have a larger ball stroke which, in the course of testing, proved advantageous for the high-revving engine (with regard to the inflation of the hydraulic valve clearance compensation element).
* The cylinder head has a modified water jacket which circulates coolant to the area between the intake port and the injector, thereby reducing the temperatures in the cylinder head combustion chamber plate.
* Due to a modified camshaft drive reduction ratio, the camshaft adjuster has 25 teeth for the chain drive, as opposed to 30 teeth in the basic engine.
In the more highly stressed high-revving engine, an additional oil-air heat exchanger is used to minimize the oil temperature even at high engine load. This additional heat exchanger is operated in parallel with the heat exchanger via a thermostat.
Audi RS4 Sump
A reliable supply of oil in all driving situations is critical, especially in a sports car such as the RS4. The oil supply system in the high-revving engine was designed for racing applications in which it is subjected to lateral
acceleration of up to 1.4 g. To ensure this, the sump in the RS4 has an additional system of flaps.
Design
Four flaps, whose axis of rotation is parallel to the longitudinal axis of vehicle, are arranged inside a housing. Each of the flaps opens toward the inside of the intake end of the oil pump.
Function
When the vehicle is cornering, the oil flows inside the sump toward the outside of the corner. The two flaps facing the outside of the corner close and hold the oil in the sump intake. At the same time, the two flaps facing the inside of the
corner open to allow additional oil to flow into the intake. This ensures a sufficient supply of oil to the oil pump.
The intake system of the RS4 engine was designed with emphasis on maximum flow control. Pressure loss is minimized by a large cross-sectional areas in the Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor G70 and air intake pipe in combination with a 90 mm diameter throttle valve.
To ensure a sufficient supply of air to the engine at high RPM, the power flap in the air filter is opened at engine speeds higher than 5000 RPM and at road speeds higher than 200 kph.
The power flap is opened and closed by a vacuum
actuator which is map-controlled by the ECM via the Intake Air Switch-Over Valve N335.
The sand cast aluminum (should be magnesium) intake manifold was designed specifically to match the sporty characteristic of the engine. In contrast to the basic engine, maximum torque is produced at higher engine RPM. At this engine speed, the intake manifold changeover valve would be switched to the short path for higher power output.
Engine Management
Engine management in the new 4.2L V8 FSI is by two versions of the Bosch MED 9.1.1.
A single control module is used in the Audi Q7 engine. There are two control modules for the RS4 engine. A master-slave concept is required here due to the requisite processing power at engine speeds up to 8250 RPM.
Further differences between the Audi Q7 and RS4 engines with respect to engine management are as follows:
Engine Speed Sensor G28
An inductive sender is used in the Audi Q7 engine. A Hall effect sensor is used in the RS4 engine with master/slave concept.
The signal from the Hall sensor can, unlike the signal from the inductive sender, be split with the result that it can be utilized by both engine control modules.
Applying the signal directly to both engine control modules ensures that the control modules are absolutely synchronized.
Throttle Valve Module
The Bosch throttle valve module used in the Audi Q7 is the largest in the range with a diameter of 82 mm. The Pierburg system was selected because the air intake system in the RS4 has a diameter of 90 mm. However, both systems work in exactly the same way.
Spark Plugs
In contrast to the Audi Q7, spark plugs with a higher heat rating (colder plugs)* are used because the RS4 engine is subjected to higher thermal stresses.
* applies to NGK spark plugs
Injectors
Due to the higher fuel demand and the shorter window of time available for injection at very high engine speeds, the RS4 engine is fitted with larger injectors than the Audi Q7 engine
The fun you have with this car, makes up for some little issues… i tell you that
Great video! Love the detail. Hoping to find something like this for a B9 RS4.
Great video. I’m looking at an rs4 avant atm. Gives me some food for thought straight away!
WOIW great video brother! Have owned 4 S4's and going to grab an RS4 finally while the market is down. Thank you very much!
Sooo far I've had to replace a throttle body, 2 oil cooler lines, PCV twice, struts, and some carbon. Upper C arm bushings are shot too. About 100k of hard use in the north east U.S. There might be a slight coolant leak somewhere I can't see, hopefully outside of the engine. Overall expensive as hell, but all things considered pretty reliable.
I loved these cars from the beginning and in isolation they still look the nuts.
For me though, alway just out of reach!
I enjoyed your reliably calm and informative video presentation as much as usual thanks, love your R35.
Totally agree buddy! I think they still look great too. Thanks for the kind comment!
Excellent information, thank you mate
Love your videos ! Could you please do a buyers guide on a Toyota GT86 ?
I own one of these, and that is a pretty good review 👍🏻
Absolutely the coolest car ever made, good choice. Support from New England 👍
Beautiful car 🚗 looks 100% exactly the same as mine b7 rs4 rule :-) great review 👍 band on
this is my dream,hope i will get one
Great content as always 👍
Thanks! Appreciate that so much 🤘
great video! very useful for someone looking at one of these
Thanks dude! Appreciate the comment. ☺️ Come see us some time!
im about to buy one of these and im quite excited
I bought it and it's very enjoyable 😉
One tip I'll add for people with he sticky clutch pedal, if they are forced to drive it with the problem, although they shouldn't, is to get into the habit of sliding their left foot under the clutch pedal immediately after a shift and pulling the clutch pedal back up. If you don't do this, you'll be in for more than just a master cylinder and clutch lines, but get it done asap. +1 on high rpm stickiness of pedal, I have the same at high rpm mostly, but don't sleep on that clutch pedal not returning sometimes when you are not paying attention even at low speeds, it can do that too
I recently had a new clutch service and had this sticking clutch pedal afterwards, replaced the master clutch cylinder or whatever its called 3 times. Had my go to shop and Vw dealer look at it and neither can source the issue. Any thoughts? Had vw parts installed for both services. I'm forced to drive with a sticking clutch pedal at the moment... Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.
@@benjaminsturms5977 you mention VW dealer. Is your car a b7 RS4 or a different model?
@@OneWayToMachines Opps forgot to mention it’s an 04 vw r32. I’m potentially looking to get an rs4.
@@benjaminsturms5977 I've heard another RS4 owner talk about a clutch line that his mechanic mentioned would 'collapse when pressure was applied.' There was great debate if this was true, but I guess if there are any soft rubber lines in your clutch system, they could be worn, not very visible to the eye, that they lose structure in some cases. I don't have any personal experience with this, and is definitely not a common point of discussion, and I was on the side of 'if the line has failed, it wouldn't be intermittent,' but hey, you've tried everything at this point. OE RS4's have self-adjust clutches where the mechanism can become partially faulty and this sometimes mimics the same symptoms as a bad slave or dirty fluid, so diagnosis is hard sometimes and it's common to replace everything all together.
Not to second guess your shop, they are probably pro's but the only other thing I can think of is that the fluid was not bled good enough.
Maybe your pedal mechanism has a mechanical sticking?
Maybe the clutch kit you had installed was defective because the problem showed up right after that.
Is you do get an RS4, definitely make an Audizine account for specific advice from members, I'm on there too
AS for the R32, if I were in your case, make an account on the major forum, I remember VW stuff was vw vortex back in the late 2000's but I haven't been there in a long time so don't know much about vw forums.
You should try contacting Humble Mechanic on UA-cam. He is a Mark 4 VW R32 specialist. Probably the best source in addition to the forums. As long as you are coherent, he does reply to Instagram PM's and comments on his videos.
Good luck!
AmaIng video! Keep up the grind fellow Scot! Come by Aberdeen with that R8 one day :)
Thanks Dude! Appreciate the comment. Follow us on instagram - we move about a bit doing videos.
not got this beast of a car yet but wold love to own a blue one damn what a motor
Do a video for the bmw 760li v12
Any comments on the leds you have fitted to the lights. I need some, just wondering if you have found some that don't require resisters installed too.
I've had one for 11 years. So far I've only had to replace a fuel pump and valve cover. Recently had it carbon cleaned although there wasn't much of a carbon buildup. 125000 km on it now
I read de-flapping the plastic flaps inside the intake is more preventative and will save the engine. How you feel about this
Are you planning to get the timing chains replaced soon? I worry that although mine only has 93k miles on it the timing chain might be a catastrophic failure if I don't sort it. What do you think?
When are you going to do R32 Golf?
Daily mine , got 191577km zero issues . Carbon clean other thrn that hand full of oil leaks otherwise neen amazing
Monster of a car
@@markyes738jealousy
they rule honestly ❤ mine
Is body rust a deal breaker with these? I’m looking at one here in Canada with about 140,000 km on it and it’s got a little rust poking through on one rear quarter arch. Pin holes… but it’s there.
Easy fix buy a good body shop, or does the whole body panel need to go?
How are parts available ? Been reading comments of parts not being available anymore. Like airco pumps etc.
Such good cars Deflap them and carbon clean and drive them how they’re supposed to be driven fantastic cars
Do these have timing chain / tensioner issues????
Does the engine have to come out to replace the injectors? Maybe a throw away !! But still love them so iconic
No you can keep it in place thankfully! A good garage will check them during a carbon clean usually
A neighbour has one and it hasn’t moved in years! It’s Got an oil leak that I can see fosho😂. I asked to buy it off him, but he didn’t want to sell it!! These B7s will go down as a classic along side the First gen R8.
Probably the oil cooler up front leaking! I do agree, future classics. Let us know if you ever manage to get it from him!
@@ScottishCarClan from the sound of your video this could be a possibility. I would’ve thought the owner would fixed after the years it’s been sitting there…😥Yes mate will do! Me and my brother want to go half’s on it as it’s both sort of a dream car, but not practical fuel consumption wise 😂we shall see
This Chanel has any car I search on youtube
Any chance of a video on the B8 RS4 Avant?
I will try to source one for you and make it! cheers :)
@@ScottishCarClan Appreciate it! I just bought a late 2014 one and it has a couple gremlins, thankfully nothing major. Seems to be electrical/sensor issues. I'm in the northwest of England otherwise I'd let you borrow mine!! Haha
You missed the power steering pump failure issue
What about the 4.2 timing chain service that is recommended by 80k
no. not on rs4 b7 unless it lets you know first
@@brianschmid6993 thanks man, I just researched it and you’re right for the most part.
Check your snub mount or ( torque mount) behind the passenger headlight.
Wouldn't be a bad idea too change the motor mounts but they will also let you know by leaking or having electrical faults on the solenoids first.
Put the Audi on a rack and check for frame and body rust. That is what does these cars in.
Is there things you can do to fix all this?
?
Should you stay away from high mileage examples ie 110k?
Mine's 93k and it's tight as a button.
I've heard of them doing 250k
It´s not that expensive when you can do the repairs your self. If you can not, buy a Cubra Born 😆😆😆
A weekend 10:17 toy not a daily,would cost a small fortune in fuel..
Is there anything that worked properly in these cars? I had an FSI engine that burned through coil packs and intermittent misfires - all before 40000 miles,
Bag of old shite…
Me too buddy - I owned one and had a handful of the problems mentioned in the video. I think they're just getting that wee bit older and aren't exactly a simple car!
You are full of it I had one to nearly 300kms done and only needed a carbon clean and coil packs it was so good I’ve just sold my 911 and am buying another rs4 b7
They are brilliant exciting immersing cars if maintained well. I don't think anyone on here, myself included, will agree with your bag of old shite comment though bro. If you have been unlucky with one then that is a grim thing for you and I understand why you need to vent a little.
Many of these about with over 200k on the clock can't be that terrible , compared to what they are cranking out now within the last 10 years I'd bet the newer RS versions won't last anywhere ear what these have ,
just a tiny comment here, the longer the video the less info I get as a viewer,
maybe present things in equal bunches with a final goal: to buy
I really like this car and myself I own the 2.0 tfsi version but I wouldn't buy one if I watch or even worse make a video saying all the quarks and none of the fun I've had wit hit
Albino cockroaches JAMMED 🤡