You're welcome Jim. I just released a new video titled Light Weight Mother Molds. It's an improvement upon the last videos. 👇 -Jon ua-cam.com/video/W3JqIvxVgCI/v-deo.html
How do you salvage your clay after demolding with the Crystal Clear on top? I've never heard of doing this and I'm intrigued, but I also want to be able to reuse my clay for more sculpts.
I just use the old clay like normal. It doesn't really have an impact after I work the clay with my fingers. But it makes a wonderful surface for molding beforehand.
Sweet :) would this be possible with tin-silicone? Normally I use jesmonite instead of plaster. I am also wondering about you seam lines, as you put those on after 24 hours- doesn't the first layer of silicone have to be sticky in order for the seamline to adhere? :)
Thank you for the compliment! And yes, tin silicone will work too. The thing about silicone is that it continues to stabilize at a decreasing rate over time. It will behave as one the closer the applications are together. I would not expect favorable results a week between layers BUT a day or two should be fine in most cases. Just keep it away from greasy hands and debris in the meantime. Thanks for watching! Your questions are most welcome 🙂
@@JonBurnsFineArt Thanks for the answer! :) I also liked your detail about making a zipper with the knife. I have myself bought a moldkey-knife , but have yet to test it. Keep up the good work
You can count on it! I'll cover some casting pointers and then show how I cast hydrostone in a mold using this one in particular. Thanks for watching! 🙂
Jon, I am wondering how the air escapes from those projections such as feet and legs. Does the rotation allow for air not to bubble in the toes..? Also, does hydrostone take longer to set up before unmolding than FGR, or Forton, which I think results in a stronger cast. I'm really grateful for these videos. I have learned a lot of finer points from you. Blessings.
@@donnahalsted7718 Hi Donna. Here we go. The rotation really helps keep the liquid moving over traditionally problematic areas where air gets trapped. As that area moves downward the air moves up and liquid replaces it. Of course some areas can be extra finicky. But I also try dividing the silicone over the fingers and toes where I believe the mold will go back together easily. These partition lines, believe it or not, actually allow a little more air-bleeding which results in flashing (the stuff we chip off later). As far as hydrostone setting time, I can get about 45-60 if I keep it moving. But that's also with a 7 minute presoak before mixing. If I let it sit idle, it can set in 25-30 minutes. I usually use cooler to cold water. Hope this helps.
Casting would not be the correct term. While the mold is open, clay slabs could be potentially pressed into the mold cavity on both halves. After it has dried somewhat, close to leather hard, the edges cleaned up, scored and the two halves joined together with some slip. To better understand this process, youtube videos on "press molding". Of course the hanging leg is another issue that would be approached the same way. Unfortunately silicone does not allow the necessary air flow to dry from its surface and slip casting is entirely impossible. I spent time dealing with this during my graduate studies. Good luck!
Thanks Ron! 😆 And I have a lot of respect for our Canadian neighbors. I can always spot you guys when I hear the word, "about." 😀 In which Province or Territory do you reside?
And how would the next casting come out? If you're making a waste mold for a one-off, then a plaster waste mold is what you want. Silicone molds are for multiple castings. It's no hassle for long term goals.
@@JonBurnsFineArt -OK, I thought so since you were going so thin. do you always use that tighter weave fiberglass fabric or do you use mat or mesh sometimes? I most often use poly-fibers mixed into the Hydro-stone, but i haven't used it with fiberglass any thoughts? It's great that you are posting these videos and awesome that you respond to questions. thanks
Either will work BUT the mat is superior to the cloth. I don't use poly fibers. There's something to the vibrational quality of fiberglass. I've used the mat fiberglass enough that I'm almost immune to the itching between my fingers and arms. Disposable gloves are very handy while you get used to it. I want to add that plaster bandages as a first layer help the hydrostone from runny off so quickly. There's too much to say here but you'll develop your method.
@@JonBurnsFineArt Clarify what you mean about the vibrational quality of fiberglass?, and are you saying you use regular plaster cloth and hydro-stone together? does that create any de-lamination issues?
When I refer to the vibrational quality, I'm referring to it's physical properties. I've dropped molds made this way from table height and they are resistant to gravitational impact. The mat seems to absorb the impact leaving the mold with only a chip or so. Never the whole thing being ruined. I have not had any issues with hydrostone "delaminating" from plaster. Just apply layers while it's still initially wet/damp. Otherwise soak the dry, cured plaster so the next layer sticks well. Again, make a test sample and see for yourself what I mean. Jump right in.
That's a really well made mold. Thanks very much for sharing Jon.
You're welcome Jim. I just released a new video titled Light Weight Mother Molds. It's an improvement upon the last videos. 👇 -Jon
ua-cam.com/video/W3JqIvxVgCI/v-deo.html
Done well, thanks for sharing your work
Great work and advice, thanks a lot for sharing
Thank you so much☺️. I really hope to see more videos in your channel.
Thank You so much for this video! Really helpful!🙏🏻✨
Love it. Keep up the great work.
This is really cool stuff. You are incredibly talented!
A tip : you can watch series on Flixzone. Me and my gf have been using them for watching lots of of movies during the lockdown.
@Layton Tucker yea, I've been watching on Flixzone for years myself :)
How do you salvage your clay after demolding with the Crystal Clear on top? I've never heard of doing this and I'm intrigued, but I also want to be able to reuse my clay for more sculpts.
I just use the old clay like normal. It doesn't really have an impact after I work the clay with my fingers. But it makes a wonderful surface for molding beforehand.
Can I also use fibreglass material as the mother mould for silicone?.
Quite helpful thanks
Hello, excellent
Excuse me, what is the material behind the mold?
There's fiberglass soaked in hydrostone gypsum plaster. And then there's the orange silicone inner jacket made from Mold Max 25 by Sooth-On.
Sweet :) would this be possible with tin-silicone? Normally I use jesmonite instead of plaster. I am also wondering about you seam lines, as you put those on after 24 hours- doesn't the first layer of silicone have to be sticky in order for the seamline to adhere? :)
Thank you for the compliment! And yes, tin silicone will work too. The thing about silicone is that it continues to stabilize at a decreasing rate over time. It will behave as one the closer the applications are together. I would not expect favorable results a week between layers BUT a day or two should be fine in most cases. Just keep it away from greasy hands and debris in the meantime. Thanks for watching! Your questions are most welcome 🙂
@@JonBurnsFineArt Thanks for the answer! :) I also liked your detail about making a zipper with the knife. I have myself bought a moldkey-knife , but have yet to test it. Keep up the good work
Can I use silicone mould for fibreglass casting?
Make sure you use mold release on the fiberglass before making a silicone mold over it. Silicone sticks to silicone.
Instead of Vaseline I use lard. I also use masking tape on the dividers. Good job.
I like to say there's 101 ways to make a mold. Thanks for sharing your techniques and contributing to the conversation.
Please post videos of casting also (using this mold)
You can count on it! I'll cover some casting pointers and then show how I cast hydrostone in a mold using this one in particular. Thanks for watching! 🙂
ua-cam.com/video/x_0zAaIlKX8/v-deo.html
Jon, I am wondering how the air escapes from those projections such as feet and legs. Does the rotation allow for air not to bubble in the toes..? Also, does hydrostone take longer to set up before unmolding than FGR, or Forton, which I think results in a stronger cast. I'm really grateful for these videos. I have learned a lot of finer points from you. Blessings.
@@donnahalsted7718 Hi Donna. Here we go. The rotation really helps keep the liquid moving over traditionally problematic areas where air gets trapped. As that area moves downward the air moves up and liquid replaces it. Of course some areas can be extra finicky. But I also try dividing the silicone over the fingers and toes where I believe the mold will go back together easily. These partition lines, believe it or not, actually allow a little more air-bleeding which results in flashing (the stuff we chip off later). As far as hydrostone setting time, I can get about 45-60 if I keep it moving. But that's also with a 7 minute presoak before mixing. If I let it sit idle, it can set in 25-30 minutes. I usually use cooler to cold water. Hope this helps.
@@JonBurnsFineArt Yes, thank you, Jon.
If you'd forgive my ignorance, could you cast clay in this mold? If so, how would it dry?
Casting would not be the correct term. While the mold is open, clay slabs could be potentially pressed into the mold cavity on both halves. After it has dried somewhat, close to leather hard, the edges cleaned up, scored and the two halves joined together with some slip. To better understand this process, youtube videos on "press molding". Of course the hanging leg is another issue that would be approached the same way. Unfortunately silicone does not allow the necessary air flow to dry from its surface and slip casting is entirely impossible. I spent time dealing with this during my graduate studies. Good luck!
Thank you for the quick reply and helpful info!
How much do you charge me to cast a statue in plaster about a feet tall?
I don't offer that service.
Had to subscribe to get you off of 666 subscribers. It so happens I like your content so it’s a two fer. I’m Canadian. We speak weird. Lol
Thanks Ron! 😆 And I have a lot of respect for our Canadian neighbors. I can always spot you guys when I hear the word, "about." 😀 In which Province or Territory do you reside?
I was just thinking, someone probably subscribed to hit that previous number. 🤔
Too much hustle. Is there any material that can just dissolve the sculpture inside so you can pour it out?
And how would the next casting come out? If you're making a waste mold for a one-off, then a plaster waste mold is what you want. Silicone molds are for multiple castings. It's no hassle for long term goals.
@@JonBurnsFineArt maybe shore 00 silicone can do the trick?
Some people use Smooth-On's 00M00-30 silicone for waste molds. Is that what you mean?
so are you actually using plaster, or is it hydrostone?
Hydrostone.
@@JonBurnsFineArt -OK, I thought so since you were going so thin. do you always use that tighter weave fiberglass fabric or do you use mat or mesh sometimes? I most often use poly-fibers mixed into the Hydro-stone, but i haven't used it with fiberglass any thoughts? It's great that you are posting these videos and awesome that you respond to questions. thanks
Either will work BUT the mat is superior to the cloth. I don't use poly fibers. There's something to the vibrational quality of fiberglass. I've used the mat fiberglass enough that I'm almost immune to the itching between my fingers and arms. Disposable gloves are very handy while you get used to it. I want to add that plaster bandages as a first layer help the hydrostone from runny off so quickly. There's too much to say here but you'll develop your method.
@@JonBurnsFineArt Clarify what you mean about the vibrational quality of fiberglass?, and are you saying you use regular plaster cloth and hydro-stone together? does that create any de-lamination issues?
When I refer to the vibrational quality, I'm referring to it's physical properties. I've dropped molds made this way from table height and they are resistant to gravitational impact. The mat seems to absorb the impact leaving the mold with only a chip or so. Never the whole thing being ruined.
I have not had any issues with hydrostone "delaminating" from plaster. Just apply layers while it's still initially wet/damp. Otherwise soak the dry, cured plaster so the next layer sticks well. Again, make a test sample and see for yourself what I mean. Jump right in.
good but video is not a complete result
Literally skipped all the tough parts which would be the most useful to see. So what’s the point of this?
Can I also use fibreglass material as the mother mould for silicone?.
You can use fiberglass in your mother mold over the silicone jacket. I do it every time.