Nice. I have a cheapy just like the one you've adjusted, which happens to be about 0.8V off when compared to my Fluke 289. Perfect opportunity to do some calibration.
Hey, thanks for the info. I too have a cheap multimeter, but it reads different voltages(DC) in different settings, offset by around 3-4V. Would calibrating fix it?
Thanks man! I have a multimeter that reads 1.96V DC under my new Klein CL-200. The Klein doesn't read DC Amps and I was wondering if Amps is non adjustable on these cheap meter's or does this adjustment affect amps as well?
Yeah, that is one of my only complaints about the EEVBlog, anything less than a $400 Fluke won't suffice for playing with some 555 timers. $5 meters have their limits, and they aren't very safe or high quality, but they are good enough for basic use. I personally like my $75 Extech more, but I can't afford to buy 5 of them to outfit my lab. I use lower end equipment, but I am not making high precision projects either. I think engineering is more about the actual project, not just equipment.
Thanks. Having a standard certainly helps. I wish there was something in nature that would give a constant voltage. Maybe you could use the 0.7V diode voltage drop. BTW, those weren't a couple of millivolts off, they were 10s of millivolts off of each other.
I was wondering what is wrong with my "Mastech" multimeter When I turn it on it reads - 273 volts DC . I changed the fuse. It won't give and accurate reading on a AA battery . When I switch to AC in an outlet it reads 92 volts.
I recently overloaded a meter and blew a fuse. I just replaces the fuse but the meter still shows a voltage even when there is no leeds attached. There are 2 potentiometers inside. I cant see evidence of burnt resistors i think the fuse covered them. With 2 potentiometers which one does what? I havent tried messing with them yet. I also dont have a good multimeter to verify readings with.
my needle is not working well since the fuse got busted. i have an analog multimeter when i set it to the lowest reading the needle wont zap to right like it used to it just went to the middle. please help. im just new on this thing.
How does one open up the damn back of those cheap Multimeters like the Amprobe 12 I found the two phillip screws in the back and still cannot get the back to open up. That is where I am stuck at.
My problem is calibrating the one you call accurate, actually you have no idea; i have a 5 digit fluke and i have NO idea if it is accurate at the 3rd decimal place; how can that be done?
How about just watching it? No one really wants to hear your complaints. If its not the instructional video you want then move on to another one, or make your own video. These UA-cam videos have helped me with a lot of repairs.
I would assume that one adjusts voltage, one for resistance, and one for current or something. If you have a nice accurate meter, I would just play around with the potentiometers until the reading matches the good meter.
I wouldn't mix up accuracy, precision and stability to one another. I mean, you can adjust one meter to show the same as the other, but if they're not stable, they'll drift from each other over time (sometimes in very short amount of time) and it'll be moot point to do that. Furthermore, if you have no reference that's traceable, you have no idea about your absolute _accuracy_ and you could be off a huge amount without having any knowledge and your measurements are at best relative.
You're right but I think that when you lack extreme precise references and for meters used mostly in situations where merely ballpark figures are enough, his video is quite useful.
This was far from ideal, but it is more of a proof of concept. A bench meter or a very high quality meter would work far better, but my EX430 is pretty accurate compared to a $3 Harbor Freight meter.
I think that *'successive approximations'* are The heart and soul of engineering. The haywire school anyway. *Don't do it too good or they won't believe we did it.*
Question.. I have a multimeter wich is mid-range and have had it for 15 years or so.. recently i noticed it was indicating the voltage quite off.. like indicating 4.7V for a 4.2V battery and so... i was thinking in replacing it then i just changed the battery and seems ok now.. the question is... can a low battery make it to lose acuracy? and once replaced its as acurate as before or would need calibration?
With lower end multimeters, along with older ones, I have seen low batteries cause inaccurate readings. It's calibration is probably fine since replacing the battery fixed the problem.
sparrowlt A very low battery in the meter might cause it to lose accuracy, but by then the low battery warning (assuming it has on!) should be indicating.The battery you're measuring is not a voltage reference; it's not even regulated. It might be nominally 4.2 volts, but it might be at a higher potential (if it is new and fresh, or over-charged) and it might be at a lower potential (if it is defective or depleted).If you want to calibrate your own meter, you should either send it to a calibration service or buy a voltage reference.
The manufacturers don't expect people to attempt to repair really cheap multimeters because of the low price. The lack of fuse sockets is done to cut costs, but it makes repair more difficult. However, a soldering iron is an inexpensive and vital tool for even the most basic electronic projects. I would recommend getting one. I use mine at least 2-3 times a week, and it has paid for itself from money that I have saved building things or doing repairs myself. Even a $5 iron would have worked fine to repair the multimeter, and it would have probably paid for itself by doing that repair.
Find any known voltage regulator, e.g. LM7805. Connect it with a dummy load. Then, calibrate your multimeter by measuring voltage across that dummy load. LM7805 should give a good 5.0V.
I would choose a reference voltage generator, there are cheap ones as ICL8069 or so. Even a LM1117 has a pretty good error tolerance so you can assume that voltage as a reference, callibrating the multimeter until you get the voltage given in the datasheet.
I didn't make an enclosure yet because I built a 30 volt 5 amp variable power supply. I just finished it, and I use it a lot more. I am in the process of making a video of it. I might still make an enclosure for the Jameco power supply, but it doesn't have enough power for a lot of my stuff.
oh ok i cant wate for that vid because im in aus and iv recently got in to this stuf and i need a power supply but i dont know if i could get somthink from jameco .ps i like lasers buy in aus 1mw is the most your alowd to get such bs
You need something else for reference. In the case of voltage, if not another meter then a voltage reference. The easiest way imho it to type "voltage reference" on eBay, you'll be presented with list of cheap boards that provide very precise voltages. You just power them up and use them as your reference.
im not sure but if thats SMPS but if it is then maybe you are reading RMS voltage from your expensive voltmeter . If that is true , then you need to turn it off , or use constant voltage source . I dont want to dig up theory but its not a constant voltage source , its pulsing , Like a speaker , so speakers have RMS labels , same for SMPS , correct method is RMS, in theory. Problem is that that cheap voltmeter doesn't have RMS , the other one does ... if im correct
It is liniar PS, you can clearly see quite big transformer, filter caps and I quess Lm337/317 voltage regulators on the heatsinks, but even if that would be a SMPS you will not get practically any pulsing without load, and you can't consider a multimeters as a load (high input impedance)
Andriy 999 indeed , i was not sure . Some say that SMPS without a load is unstable . I dont know . Guy probably did it somwhat correct , i just like to share opinions on YT, with nice ppl
Todays Chinese multimeter will look horrible in comparison to your cheap multimeter. This one still looks very well manufactured as compared to todays one....
Mine is impossible to calibrate... If I calibrate it for DC, then the AC value goes crazy as it uses only 1 potentiometer for every measures, grrrrrrr, have to buy a better one.
You don't need two multimeters to calibrate. All you do is turn your multimeter onto the highest ohm setting it has, touch the two leads together and adjust the setting to where your reading reads zero. Using two multimeters is not very accurate, what happens if the one you're using to calibrate with is not calibrated right????
While shopping for metrs I discover the cost for an Extech product calibrated to a stadard is prohibitively expensive. Doesn't instill much confidence with the accuracy of an off the shelf extech. There are instances where an accurate meter is essential. One would be the mechanic or auto parts shop who recommends an new alternator based on the voltage output. A measurement where tenths of a volt determine if the alternator undercharging the battery, is correctly charging the battery, or over charging the battery. In correct charging of the battery shorten the life of the battery. I would be surprised if some states require test instruments that are used advise a customer to purchase something are require to be certified periodically. Like gas pumps and retail scales are. No doubt there's a way for the averaje joe or jane to create an accurate test standard, but I would know how to go about it. With a one pot adjustment I'd ask the local utility what voltage I would expect, and use an AC outlet to calibrate a meter using 120 and 240 outlet. I live in a small rural town. In the past I asked the linemen if I could show up at their shop to calibrate my meter to their meter. For meters with multiple pots I have used the test points of a properly operating tube type TV adjusting the meter to the middle of the range the service manual should be present
chosen here a bad example, car charging voltage needs to be measured only to the 1st decimal place,NO more; diff,manufacturers, it varies, but between 13.9 and 14.3 IT IS GOOD; 14.2 is best; no need for any more precision
@@josepeixoto3384This is only applicable to earlier type vehicles with non (smart charge) computer regulated systems. Charging profile & alternator output can be at unexpected levels. Accurate test equipment is essential when working with those type.
Good god! Those screwdrivers - maybe borrowed from the kid next door, one even had a spade end. A decent set of electricians screwdrivers will cost about $12 though not tradesman grade. And please forget whatever you think is restful background music.
Probably a good vid and it is info that I need. BUT BUT BUT? The background noise (music) is JUST loud enough to make it impossible to understand what you're saying. I guess the other comments saying EXACTLY the same thing are not enough for you to redo the f'n audio.
So you use a Good meter to calibrate a bad meter. In the real world we only have bad crap meters. So how do you calibrate a crap meter with just that one crap meter?
You may have to find a very accurate power source to calibrate from (like your computer's CPU core voltage, which will be somewhere around 1.2v, check it in the BIOS if you have a decent motherboard and set it to a fixed voltage). Unfortunately for me, that's what I'm trying to measure in the first place, so I'm going to need to get a very expensive bench meter with very good accuracy. The ones I'm looking at are about 50x more accurate even with an old used unit, but I would still need to calibrate it since even $1000+ equipment (new) needs to be calibrated every few months. And there lies the problem, not even expensive equipment can be easily calibrated by yourself... But, if you're not trying to get accurate .01 V or better, then I would probably measure a computer component voltage for a reference point.
Thats a good Idea. But not sure how to get test leads to the CPU voltage. I suppose you can use something like the 7803 to get a reasonable calibration for a cheap meter if extreme accuracy is not important. Not sure what the tolerances are I know not that far off. But using 3.3V voltage regulator the tolerances would be tighter as a percentage between 0 and 3.3 unlike 7805 as the error would be greater. Or you can just use alkaline battery like Duracell as I see videos people showing that they have a voltage of 1.56 (If I remember correctly) almost every time with in -+ .01
Duracell batteries are the most inconsistent thing I have seen in terms of consistency besides me spinning motors in my hands to generate power. Brand new batteries, same pack, huge differences. Also if they are 1.56V they are pretty much dead. 1.65 is a lot closer from what I've seen. Batch changes and chemical material affect them greatly and are a terrible source for checking anything but ballpark estimate. Duracell as a brand is among the most inconsistent I've seen too, Energizer seems to be a lot more precise. CPU voltage is usually within .05 V. For instance, my CPU I'm checking is under heavy load, so its 1.5125 V like the motherboard is trying to output is probably incorrect, but at no load setting it to 1.3 to 1.5V should give me a very good estimate (and lighten the load as much as possible, like disable 7 of the cores to get even less load for better accuracy, and keep it in BIOS so it shouldn't be fluctuating from varying loads). I would expect very accurate results (definitely compared to a Duracell Battery, at least 10x to probably even 100x more precise) doing this. The big downside is you need a motherboard running a fixed known voltage, and you need to know where to measure across. I think there are multiple ways of checking, such as after the capacitors for the VRM, but some nice motherboards even have built in LCD voltage displays or connection points, which would make it very handy.
@@brianlink391 Attaching one lead to ground (any plated screw hole or an I/O metal shield) , and one lead to the output of a mosfet near to the CPU area. You'll likely see multiple mosfets next to each other. Although every board, even same brand and model can be slightly different. You definitely need a good multimeter or bench power supply to fine tune it.
Wait what....? Why the hell would I want to calibrate a cheaper multimeter with a more expensive multimeter and not just push the cheap one to the side and use the better one? 🤔 Dig the music tho.
heres how to calibrate a cheap multimeter. To do this, you will need one more expensive multimeter and a trash can for the, now useless, pos harbor freight gave you for free.
Kill the irritating noise (music?) ;)
PLEASE lose the fucking music!
Genau !!! Ich brauche Ruhe.
Nice. I have a cheapy just like the one you've adjusted, which happens to be about 0.8V off when compared to my Fluke 289. Perfect opportunity to do some calibration.
Is that background music coming from the SID chip of A Commodore 64, perhaps ?
Very Nice Calibration !
Is the potentiometer only for adjusting the DC voltage reading. Will it affect the Ohms and AC voltage?
Thanks from ireland !
Thank you for this post ... worked for me
I have a question. Does the ohms scale be calibrated too when you had calibrated the volts scale?
Hey, thanks for the info. I too have a cheap multimeter, but it reads different voltages(DC) in different settings, offset by around 3-4V. Would calibrating fix it?
Thanks man! I have a multimeter that reads 1.96V DC under my new Klein CL-200.
The Klein doesn't read DC Amps and I was wondering if Amps is non adjustable on these cheap meter's or does this adjustment affect amps as well?
Hi, is it the same process to calibrate the clamps that measure amperage?
Really Nice Calibrating,
Hey Bro,
You are a LIFESAVER,
My Cheap multimeter XL830L, does now a Decent measurement.
Thanks!
Thank you
My Ames clamp DMM has three different pots labeled VR1, VR2 & VR3. Which one is to adjust voltage measurement?
Nice info, thanks :)
Interesting. Thanks. 😆
Yeah, that is one of my only complaints about the EEVBlog, anything less than a $400 Fluke won't suffice for playing with some 555 timers. $5 meters have their limits, and they aren't very safe or high quality, but they are good enough for basic use. I personally like my $75 Extech more, but I can't afford to buy 5 of them to outfit my lab. I use lower end equipment, but I am not making high precision projects either. I think engineering is more about the actual project, not just equipment.
loose the background music.
Thanks. Having a standard certainly helps. I wish there was something in nature that would give a constant voltage. Maybe you could use the 0.7V diode voltage drop.
BTW, those weren't a couple of millivolts off, they were 10s of millivolts off of each other.
I was wondering what is wrong with my "Mastech" multimeter When I turn it on it reads - 273 volts DC . I changed the fuse.
It won't give and accurate reading on a AA battery . When I switch to AC in an outlet it reads 92 volts.
can you tell me the size or range of the potentiometer? I have a chip craftsman and the size is not on the trimpot
I recently overloaded a meter and blew a fuse. I just replaces the fuse but the meter still shows a voltage even when there is no leeds attached. There are 2 potentiometers inside.
I cant see evidence of burnt resistors i think the fuse covered them.
With 2 potentiometers which one does what? I havent tried messing with them yet. I also dont have a good multimeter to verify readings with.
my needle is not working well since the fuse got busted. i have an analog multimeter when i set it to the lowest reading the needle wont zap to right like it used to it just went to the middle. please help. im just new on this thing.
How does one open up the damn back of those cheap Multimeters like the Amprobe 12
I found the two phillip screws in the back and still cannot get the back to open up. That is where I am stuck at.
My problem is calibrating the one you call accurate, actually you have no idea; i have a 5 digit fluke and i have NO idea if it is accurate at the 3rd decimal place; how can that be done?
Calibrated? What if your Exetech is not calibrated? What about the resistance and current scales?
..or as Juvenal famously said, "Quis custodiet ipsos custodes?"
nice trimming tool lulz
How about just watching it? No one really wants to hear your complaints. If its not the instructional video you want then move on to another one, or make your own video. These UA-cam videos have helped me with a lot of repairs.
I have a DT838 and it has 3 potentiometers inside. How do I know, wich one it is?
I would assume that one adjusts voltage, one for resistance, and one for current or something. If you have a nice accurate meter, I would just play around with the potentiometers until the reading matches the good meter.
potatogun96 The problem is it's the only one. Probably gonna buy a better one...
I wouldn't mix up accuracy, precision and stability to one another.
I mean, you can adjust one meter to show the same as the other, but if they're not stable, they'll drift from each other over time (sometimes in very short amount of time) and it'll be moot point to do that.
Furthermore, if you have no reference that's traceable, you have no idea about your absolute _accuracy_ and you could be off a huge amount without having any knowledge and your measurements are at best relative.
You're right but I think that when you lack extreme precise references and for meters used mostly in situations where merely ballpark figures are enough, his video is quite useful.
I think I would use something other than an Extech to cal with
This was far from ideal, but it is more of a proof of concept. A bench meter or a very high quality meter would work far better, but my EX430 is pretty accurate compared to a $3 Harbor Freight meter.
mine is dt830b but doesnt have variable inside it what to do
Did u solve this missing pot problem .. i have same issue
Jesus H. that stupid music makes it impossible to listen to you.. Your a good guy though for doing this video, thanks.
kill the music drive me nuts
jon sanford This may be useful for your fleet of DMMs
I just calibrate them using my 'scope ;-)
I think that *'successive approximations'* are
The heart and soul of engineering.
The haywire school anyway.
*Don't do it too good or they won't believe we did it.*
That did the volts
what about the amps and ohms?
jon sanford
A good point, it seems very unlikely one potentiometer would adjust all measurements.
Question..
I have a multimeter wich is mid-range and have had it for 15 years or so..
recently i noticed it was indicating the voltage quite off.. like indicating 4.7V for a 4.2V battery and so... i was thinking in replacing it then i just changed the battery and seems ok now..
the question is... can a low battery make it to lose acuracy? and once replaced its as acurate as before or would need calibration?
With lower end multimeters, along with older ones, I have seen low batteries cause inaccurate readings. It's calibration is probably fine since replacing the battery fixed the problem.
sparrowlt A very low battery in the meter might cause it to lose accuracy, but by then the low battery warning (assuming it has on!) should be indicating.The battery you're measuring is not a voltage reference; it's not even regulated. It might be nominally 4.2 volts, but it might be at a higher potential (if it is new and fresh, or over-charged) and it might be at a lower potential (if it is defective or depleted).If you want to calibrate your own meter, you should either send it to a calibration service or buy a voltage reference.
i had one of them and the fuse blow and did not have a soldering iron :(
The manufacturers don't expect people to attempt to repair really cheap multimeters because of the low price. The lack of fuse sockets is done to cut costs, but it makes repair more difficult. However, a soldering iron is an inexpensive and vital tool for even the most basic electronic projects. I would recommend getting one. I use mine at least 2-3 times a week, and it has paid for itself from money that I have saved building things or doing repairs myself. Even a $5 iron would have worked fine to repair the multimeter, and it would have probably paid for itself by doing that repair.
Can you re-release the video without the annoying music? Thanks.
You could turn the sound down....However I was starting to get nauseous with the jumpy out of focus picture !😐
do I need to have another more expensive Multimeter to calibrate the cheaper one?
Is there a way that I can do without it?
Find any known voltage regulator, e.g. LM7805. Connect it with a dummy load. Then, calibrate your multimeter by measuring voltage across that dummy load. LM7805 should give a good 5.0V.
I would choose a reference voltage generator, there are cheap ones as ICL8069 or so. Even a LM1117 has a pretty good error tolerance so you can assume that voltage as a reference, callibrating the multimeter until you get the voltage given in the datasheet.
@@bruno_ricci WOW, thanks i did not know there was such a thing; gonna check it right now!
Reference Voltage Generator!!
Damn, so this mean to repair a crazy multimeter, you need to buy pricey one as the reference to calibrate them.
I recently watched your vid when you made that power supply whay not make a inclosher for it
I didn't make an enclosure yet because I built a 30 volt 5 amp variable power supply. I just finished it, and I use it a lot more. I am in the process of making a video of it. I might still make an enclosure for the Jameco power supply, but it doesn't have enough power for a lot of my stuff.
oh ok i cant wate for that vid because im in aus and iv recently got in to this stuf and i need a power supply but i dont know if i could get somthink from jameco .ps i like lasers buy in aus 1mw is the most your alowd to get such bs
By the wat will that work with a 240v imput in aus thats our mains supply
I'm talking about the spore supply
alexander cruse Any transformer with a 240 volt AC input will work. A 25 VCT output with a 240 VAC input should work very well.
Dear friends I need to repair hioki 3256-50 digital hitester multimeter video. Not properly working.
I don't have the potenciometer in it. I can't even see continuity beeper or a FUSE! :D
It was the case with mine too, so the best solution I've found is the trash bin)
I've only the one meter how can I calibrate it if possible ?
You need something else for reference. In the case of voltage, if not another meter then a voltage reference. The easiest way imho it to type "voltage reference" on eBay, you'll be presented with list of cheap boards that provide very precise voltages. You just power them up and use them as your reference.
im not sure but if thats SMPS but if it is then maybe you are reading RMS voltage from your expensive voltmeter . If that is true , then you need to turn it off , or use constant voltage source . I dont want to dig up theory but its not a constant voltage source , its pulsing , Like a speaker , so speakers have RMS labels , same for SMPS , correct method is RMS, in theory. Problem is that that cheap voltmeter doesn't have RMS , the other one does ... if im correct
He used a DC power supply.
Leandro Gabriel its SMPS, its not clear DC like battery is , its pulsing . Makes little difference but we are talking about calibrating so it maters
It is liniar PS, you can clearly see quite big transformer, filter caps and I quess Lm337/317 voltage regulators on the heatsinks, but even if that would be a SMPS you will not get practically any pulsing without load, and you can't consider a multimeters as a load (high input impedance)
Andriy 999 indeed , i was not sure . Some say that SMPS without a load is unstable . I dont know . Guy probably did it somwhat correct , i just like to share opinions on YT, with nice ppl
my cheap one even don't have adjustment unit to fix
Todays Chinese multimeter will look horrible in comparison to your cheap multimeter. This one still looks very well manufactured as compared to todays one....
That's not even 8 bit music LOL .. more like 2 bit :-D
Mine is impossible to calibrate...
If I calibrate it for DC, then the AC value goes crazy as it uses only 1 potentiometer for every measures, grrrrrrr, have to buy a better one.
what model/brand is it?
linearity may still be bad.
Love the music fuck the haters
An 8-bit soundtrack.
Nostalgic. Yet annoying.
You don't need two multimeters to calibrate. All you do is turn your multimeter onto the highest ohm setting it has, touch the two leads together and adjust the setting to where your reading reads zero. Using two multimeters is not very accurate, what happens if the one you're using to calibrate with is not calibrated right????
This
Hi Ed would that be calibrating ohms or voltage, Thanks for any info.
While shopping for metrs I discover the cost for an Extech product calibrated to a stadard is prohibitively expensive. Doesn't instill much confidence with the accuracy of an off the shelf extech. There are instances where an accurate meter is essential. One would be the mechanic or auto parts shop who recommends an new alternator based on the voltage output. A measurement where tenths of a volt determine if the alternator undercharging the battery, is correctly charging the battery, or over charging the battery. In correct charging of the battery shorten the life of the battery. I would be surprised if some states require test instruments that are used advise a customer to purchase something are require to be certified periodically. Like gas pumps and retail scales are. No doubt there's a way for the averaje joe or jane to create an accurate test standard, but I would know how to go about it. With a one pot adjustment I'd ask the local utility what voltage I would expect, and use an AC outlet to calibrate a meter using 120 and 240 outlet. I live in a small rural town. In the past I asked the linemen if I could show up at their shop to calibrate my meter to their meter. For meters with multiple pots I have used the test points of a properly operating tube type TV adjusting the meter to the middle of the range the service manual should be present
chosen here a bad example, car charging voltage needs to be measured only to the 1st decimal place,NO more; diff,manufacturers, it varies, but between 13.9 and 14.3 IT IS GOOD; 14.2 is best; no need for any more precision
@@josepeixoto3384This is only applicable to earlier type vehicles with non (smart charge) computer regulated systems. Charging profile & alternator output can be at unexpected levels. Accurate test equipment is essential when working with those type.
The superficialy way that he manipulate mutimeters, screwdriver, power source really steps on my nerves.
my device have three potenciometers
Thanks but the background noise is annoying.
I had a cheaper version of the cheap meter that didn't even have a buzzer!!
hello, sir. please select GF6018A Multimeter calibrator test multimeter!
www.gfuve.com/electrical-calibration/clamp-type-multimeter-calibrator.html
Thank goodness my multimeter didn't come with that annoying game in noise.
mine has no potentiometer.
what model/brand is it?
@@camurgo hi.. the missing potentiometer on the cheap multimeter .. 100k or what size must i solder to the pcb that has a place for it
If I had a decent multimeter, I would throw the crap multimeter in the trash. I would not even calibrate it before throwing it in the trash.
Good god!
Those screwdrivers - maybe borrowed from the kid next door, one even had a spade end.
A decent set of electricians screwdrivers will cost about $12 though not tradesman grade.
And please forget whatever you think is restful background music.
Probably a good vid and it is info that I need. BUT BUT BUT? The background noise (music) is JUST loud enough to make it impossible to understand what you're saying. I guess the other comments saying EXACTLY the same thing are not enough for you to redo the f'n audio.
So you use a Good meter to calibrate a bad meter. In the real world we only have bad crap meters. So how do you calibrate a crap meter with just that one crap meter?
You may have to find a very accurate power source to calibrate from (like your computer's CPU core voltage, which will be somewhere around 1.2v, check it in the BIOS if you have a decent motherboard and set it to a fixed voltage). Unfortunately for me, that's what I'm trying to measure in the first place, so I'm going to need to get a very expensive bench meter with very good accuracy. The ones I'm looking at are about 50x more accurate even with an old used unit, but I would still need to calibrate it since even $1000+ equipment (new) needs to be calibrated every few months. And there lies the problem, not even expensive equipment can be easily calibrated by yourself...
But, if you're not trying to get accurate .01 V or better, then I would probably measure a computer component voltage for a reference point.
Thats a good Idea. But not sure how to get test leads to the CPU voltage. I suppose you can use something like the 7803 to get a reasonable calibration for a cheap meter if extreme accuracy is not important. Not sure what the tolerances are I know not that far off.
But using 3.3V voltage regulator the tolerances would be tighter as a percentage between 0 and 3.3 unlike 7805 as the error would be greater. Or you can just use alkaline battery like Duracell as I see videos people showing that they have a voltage of 1.56 (If I remember correctly) almost every time with in -+ .01
Duracell batteries are the most inconsistent thing I have seen in terms of consistency besides me spinning motors in my hands to generate power. Brand new batteries, same pack, huge differences. Also if they are 1.56V they are pretty much dead. 1.65 is a lot closer from what I've seen. Batch changes and chemical material affect them greatly and are a terrible source for checking anything but ballpark estimate. Duracell as a brand is among the most inconsistent I've seen too, Energizer seems to be a lot more precise.
CPU voltage is usually within .05 V. For instance, my CPU I'm checking is under heavy load, so its 1.5125 V like the motherboard is trying to output is probably incorrect, but at no load setting it to 1.3 to 1.5V should give me a very good estimate (and lighten the load as much as possible, like disable 7 of the cores to get even less load for better accuracy, and keep it in BIOS so it shouldn't be fluctuating from varying loads). I would expect very accurate results (definitely compared to a Duracell Battery, at least 10x to probably even 100x more precise) doing this. The big downside is you need a motherboard running a fixed known voltage, and you need to know where to measure across. I think there are multiple ways of checking, such as after the capacitors for the VRM, but some nice motherboards even have built in LCD voltage displays or connection points, which would make it very handy.
@@brianlink391 Attaching one lead to ground (any plated screw hole or an I/O metal shield) , and one lead to the output of a mosfet near to the CPU area. You'll likely see multiple mosfets next to each other. Although every board, even same brand and model can be slightly different. You definitely need a good multimeter or bench power supply to fine tune it.
@@hussssshie nice for a reply. 2 years to late lol
Turn that music off.
terrible music
My 20 year old TV remote control is more advanced...
You should really loose the video game sounds in the back ground it really sounds dumb as hell.
God ahful noses
Most annoying music when you're trying to listen... shame
Wait what....? Why the hell would I want to calibrate a cheaper multimeter with a more expensive multimeter and not just push the cheap one to the side and use the better one? 🤔
Dig the music tho.
Blurred and Commodore tune... annoying
Music MEGA distracting.
heres how to calibrate a cheap multimeter. To do this, you will need one more expensive multimeter and a trash can for the, now useless, pos harbor freight gave you for free.
Background noise LMFAO! I pretty sure a mistake was made in the less than 3min in mark ¬.^
Seriously irritating musak...what is going on inside your head?
Extech is an average meter and who wants a disposable toy.
Scheiß Musik !!! NERVT !!!