Absolutely! my pump was making noise, I thought it was the PS pump until the water pump seized and popped off the belt. It started to overheat, I knew what it was and caught it in time. I did the replacement myself and all went well AFTER I figured out that the pully has to come off with the pump because of space limitations. I wonder if the engineers knew this when designing it! While your under there, replace that short metal pipe that often rusts out going from the pump to the radiator.
Great video guys !!! I will be doing my water pump tomorrow. There is just one statement you could make that would make this a perfect video. " Now is the time to check your belts and hoses and if in doubt, change them out !" Thanks again
I just did this today, took me three hours laying on my back with the car up on one wheel ramp. What a PITA! I used a water pump that has a metal impeller. I also let the engine down, it's easier....
I like your style of repair videos. Good camera work and lots of info. And it`s nice and fast paced, not slow to shit and take half of your evening style. I hope your other videos r similar.
Thank you for this vid. Seems like its water pump season around my place lately. Replaced mine last month (03 Crown Vic Interceptor) then my parents the next week (01 Pontiac Montana) and now my Grandfathers needs done (06 Chrysler Town and Country). I was worried this one would be tough and while it will be worse than the first two were, after watching this vid i'm sure it wont be that bad.
This is actually pretty easy, I did it on my 04 caravan, 3.3 engine. You just need to loosen the 3 motor mount bolts so the engine drop about 1/4 of an inch.
Thank you Gentlemen. It sure helps. If you ever intend to take the same part off again, don't use the 3m. I've use it on vw box . And had to use a coal chisel to separate it.
Props to you guys for this video I just replaced my tonight and it was a very successful repair my wife is happy again.I swear if I wouldnt have seen this video I would have been up shit creek without a paddle trying to take that pulley off.Gracias mi amigos gringos you are the best in all of Mexico too.
Thank you for your responses to my questions. Wish I lived where you were. I would make it a point to get you as my tech. I enjoyed watching the way you work. I say your desire to make sure that you were trying to be specific in the instructions you were given. Thanks again.
Very helpful! I just changed the water pump on a 2001 3.8 T&C. I got the bolts removed but had to lower the engine to get the pump out. Then I got the belt back on my going under the idler pulley at the top after threading all the other pulleys.
That is exactly how I test to see if it is a driven pulley problem. With the belt off and the engine off, spin each pulley by hand and listen/ feel for roughness. These vans commonly make noise from the alternator as well. Happy hunting.
nippondenso alternators bruishes lose contact commonly with these. common issue.,. easy to clean up and make new brushes contact free/no cost fix repair on these commonly.
My wife's van broke down and I used this video and one other video and had it fixed in no time. Very informative and entertaining! Hope you are still posting videos. Liked and subscribed.
Ya, that last bit - fill the rad fluid way up over the "hot" mark - can't tell you how many times I have gotten my caravan back for a new rad or pipes, and check the fluid level next day, almost can't see any! (well below the "cool" mark in the res).
@PackedFunk - It is a good idea to replace it asap at your convince, if it is making noise the bearings are going out and will soon take out the seal, thus causing a leak. Better to do it when you know you have time then after a tow and a day off work.
I think all of the Chrysler Town and Country's water pumps fail after 5 to 7 years of the vehicle's age. It seems to be common for the 2005-2007 models after about 75,000 miles on them. The water pump makes a noise that sounds like a diesel engine school bus. That's the first sign of the bearings wearing on the pump. Just get it into the service department before the leak starts, and the vehicle overheats because of the loss of antifreeze coolant.
looks different crank pulley etc than the 3.3L 2005 we have that im doing WP on right now out here.. but still same pump etc anyways., i just use prybar long drive extension to pry the tensioner down after dropping the engine.
Caravans have cheap water pumps! Plan to replace about every 3 years! I carry a spare in my van! Also sometimes that plastic impeller will break and cause engine overheat! James
they are really basic and plastic impellers too, all pumps wear out leak eventually though. they dont seem to leak fail any more often than more compicated design ones. around 100k miles roughly still like most others.
I’ve been following the posts since I have a 2004 3.3L that is probably living on borrowed time. It seems like the plastic impeller may be a problem (there were some that separated from the shaft) but like you said if you can get 80,000 miles out of a pump it can’t be all bad. However, I did find an AC Delco pump with a cast iron impeller and ordered it to just get ready. Oh, a big thanks to the guys who made the video it’s a big help knowing what to expect when doing this for the first time.
one thing to check is the steel water pump nipple that is pressed in the back of the water pump. Mine was all rusted out. I had to dremmel it out and put a new on in.
Was the pump/pulley actually removed without dropping the engine? After removing bolts pump/pulley, How long did it to slide out? What process was used to actually access 5 bolts from PUMP? There is a laboring sound made by my vans engine/pulleys with engine running. Pulley is wobbling. I was testing to see if the laboring sound is internally in engine or pulleys, by REMOVING belt from van, laboring sound is gone, engine purrs. Was this acceptable test to determine if sound was internal?
@JasperCountyNative Got it done! Had to break the plastic fan on the back of the first one to get it out. Had to get my wife to use the crow bar while I put in the new one. I guess the clearances vary from one vehicle to the next. Glad it's over :)
Maybe a little late, but for other DIY/shadetree folks or your future jobs: You can use a screwdriver, spare ratchet, etc. to make those pulleys sit still, if for some reason having the belt on is impossible or not desired. You just use them like a cotter's pin to lock the pulleys down (placed inside them) but be careful to not lose them somewhere annoying or not be able to get them back out. Which is also useful trick if at a junkyard and the tires keep spinning but you need to get one of those $%@#ing wheels off. Carry a spare foot-long screwdriver/prying tool/45-degree tire iron for such adventures! Name your character Wedge. :P Try getting an underbed storage bin that's about 2 feet by 1 foot (as in, around 30cmX60cm), as it'll make spills a lot less likely. The lid doubles as a place to catch screws and wrenches that slip! Also, have unrolled section of paper towels already ready to use. Get some cheap $1-2 black knit gloves to avoid cuts and scraps. It's up to you if you think long-sleeved shirts will help or be a PITA. Cat litter, the diatomaceous earth type being preferred. This will be handy if you spill anything nasty. Usually, the local county has a place to dispose of this. Get a floor jack and largish board to lift the front end. Get some wheels and/or _solid_ bricks/boards into place in case your jack fails/slips. Use chocks of some sort and not just brakes. It could save your life doing those two! A buddy wouldn't hurt. Pros use full-sized lifts/bays, but for this job, kind of overkill. Buy a new belt from Rockauto or somewhere local or whatever, and keep the old one as your spare with your jack. You WILL be glad you did this one day. Check the tensioner and idle pulleys, and replace them as well, if they are showing signs of wear. They're something like $5 each, and if they fail, you can lose a bunch of belts before you realize it's the pulleys. If your radiator fluid is getting old (5 years for proper ones like Mopar-specified or Zerex G05), this would be a good time to flush. Beware that properly flushing this van takes specific steps. Look them up. Look for signs of oil leaks while you're down in there and have everything loose. This engine is known for them.
Great video! The 10mm and 13 mm ratchet wrenches are needed, and I bought them yesterday, to remove the pully and pump. But how did you guys remove both with little space ? I'll figure it out when I get to that problem. Maybe wedge a pry bar inbetween motor and frame and try get more room? Or lower motor?
i used 1/4" drive ratchet and wobble extension with the 10mm socket very long extension and did pump bolts through pulley center.. worked good. dont have to rmeove pulley. not required.
I just did this on my 2007 Grand Caravan yesterday with just a jack stand. I feel like I did hours of bench presses. SOOOO sore! :( I had to drop the engine to get the pump out. How did you guys manage that?
93 is old style all different than the 2000s ones yes. in around 2000 years and up the WP and such are all different pullies and configuration layout and etc. and then on the cars like the eagle vision and the intrepids and LHS and others LH platform cars with the 3.3L in the early mid 90s years the WP is on the pass side front under alternator. but on the vans and all the later years vehicles stuff the WP is towards rear more and underneath power steering pump in a bad place. it is on the other side of the engine totally and all different pullies brackets but same pump still. and on the car several of the WP bolts snapped off in the timing cover bad,. i had to drill and nut bolt and etc fix/rig it. im doing a WP on a 3.3L van 2007 one right now out here.
auto zone and etc have them. 20 bucks kit., i have one and didnt evne use it on my 3.3L WP job here. i just pry bar pried the tensioner down with a long extension drive bar..
I have the same type of van 96 plymouth voyager, The car has been leaking from the driver side but after taking off the water pipe that goes threw the engine and sealing it back togather with new seals n cylicon it still leaked water so I'm guessing it's either a bad water pump but not sure because then it would leak from passenger side but it does not, or maybe the engine is needing a new gasket??? Let me know if you got any information on this, My car is currently broken down till I get more information on what might be the problem.
and is RTV really the same thing as the 3M weatherstrip adhesive? hmm? didnt drop the engine down a couple inches? really? wow.. lucky.. i hjad to drop the 3.3L one out here to get the WP off and out,,
yes bearings bad in it.. will leak sooner than later due to bearings shaft wear wobble. if its noisy then there will be shaft slop wear in it you can feel by hand
I just got one off of amazon dot com with a red plastic case for $26. Mine is a 3/8 drive but has a bar that attaches with a 1/2 drive. I just used it on the above engine to remove the belt.
Video was mediocre. Camera shook a bit too much, could have extended time on some shots by even a couple seconds would help. I did, on the lighter side, find a couple decent tips, thanks! The Español at the beginning was moderately entertaining, and was kiboshed at an appropriate moment. Also, thanks to "Awesome Things" (UA-camr) for leaving your comment and shared your experiences..... now time for me and my buddies (Los Boludos) to start turning a wrench on our (my) water pump issue.
Absolutely! my pump was making noise, I thought it was the PS pump until the water pump seized and popped off the belt. It started to overheat, I knew what it was and caught it in time.
I did the replacement myself and all went well AFTER I figured out that the pully has to come off with the pump because of space limitations. I wonder if the engineers knew this when designing it! While your under there, replace that short metal pipe that often rusts out going from the pump to the radiator.
This is a great video that has no BS actually tells you how to do things
Great video guys !!! I will be doing my water pump tomorrow.
There is just one statement you could make that would make this a perfect video.
" Now is the time to check your belts and hoses and if in doubt, change them out !"
Thanks again
I just did this today, took me three hours laying on my back with the car up on one wheel ramp. What a PITA! I used a water pump that has a metal impeller. I also let the engine down, it's easier....
I like your style of repair videos. Good camera work and lots of info. And it`s nice and fast paced, not slow to shit and take half of your evening style. I hope your other videos r similar.
Thank you for this vid. Seems like its water pump season around my place lately. Replaced mine last month (03 Crown Vic Interceptor) then my parents the next week (01 Pontiac Montana) and now my Grandfathers needs done (06 Chrysler Town and Country). I was worried this one would be tough and while it will be worse than the first two were, after watching this vid i'm sure it wont be that bad.
This is actually pretty easy, I did it on my 04 caravan, 3.3 engine. You just need to loosen the 3 motor mount bolts so the engine drop about 1/4 of an inch.
I had to loosen the motor mounts - the pump came out easily then. Thanks for the video!
The replacement was $45 at my local CarQuest.
yes on the 3.3 ones you need to lower engine a lil. on 3.8 dont have to
Thank you Gentlemen. It sure helps. If you ever intend to take the same part off again, don't use the 3m. I've use it on vw box . And had to use a coal chisel to separate it.
Props to you guys for this video I just replaced my tonight and it was a very successful repair my wife is happy again.I swear if I wouldnt have seen this video I would have been up shit creek without a paddle trying to take that pulley off.Gracias mi amigos gringos you are the best in all of Mexico too.
Thank you for your responses to my questions. Wish I lived where you were. I would make it a point to get you as my tech. I enjoyed watching the way you work. I say your desire to make sure that you were trying to be specific in the instructions you were given. Thanks again.
Very helpful! I just changed the water pump on a 2001 3.8 T&C. I got the bolts removed but had to lower the engine to get the pump out. Then I got the belt back on my going under the idler pulley at the top after threading all the other pulleys.
That is exactly how I test to see if it is a driven pulley problem. With the belt off and the engine off, spin each pulley by hand and listen/ feel for roughness. These vans commonly make noise from the alternator as well.
Happy hunting.
nippondenso alternators bruishes lose contact commonly with these. common issue.,. easy to clean up and make new brushes contact free/no cost fix repair on these commonly.
Perfect, that'll be done this week, thank you.
My wife's van broke down and I used this video and one other video and had it fixed in no time. Very informative and entertaining! Hope you are still posting videos. Liked and subscribed.
Thank you guys, this video helped me alot, I replaced my water pump today. Thanks again
One of the best instructions.
Ya, that last bit - fill the rad fluid way up over the "hot" mark - can't tell you how many times I have gotten my caravan back for a new rad or pipes, and check the fluid level next day, almost can't see any! (well below the "cool" mark in the res).
great video, the music you guys listen to is perfect!!!!
Awesome guys! I've got one to do tomorrow; wish me luck.
You guys made it look easy , I just put a water pump on a 95 Ford Windstar , Ford didn't give any room to work
yah alot more parts pieces stuff to remove to get pump out on vehicles engines like those fords etc. alot more time and nightmare for sure.,
Thank you for this video. It was a lot of help.
@PackedFunk - It is a good idea to replace it asap at your convince, if it is making noise the bearings are going out and will soon take out the seal, thus causing a leak. Better to do it when you know you have time then after a tow and a day off work.
Great video, REALLY helped me out of a jam with that pulley trick!! Thanks a bunch. Can't wait for the next ones! ;-)
Thanks guys! You just save me a lot of time.
When I did this job, I simply used a pry bar on the frame rail to move the engine over.
great vid and thanks jacked up off the ground is not bad at all !!!!!!
I think all of the Chrysler Town and Country's water pumps fail after 5 to 7 years of the vehicle's age. It seems to be common for the 2005-2007 models after about 75,000 miles on them. The water pump makes a noise that sounds like a diesel engine school bus. That's the first sign of the bearings wearing on the pump. Just get it into the service department before the leak starts, and the vehicle overheats because of the loss of antifreeze coolant.
THANKS FOR THE VIDEO, GREAT JOB. I LOVE IT....
Great video guys, thanks a bunch!!!
looks different crank pulley etc than the 3.3L 2005 we have that im doing WP on right now out here.. but still same pump etc anyways., i just use prybar long drive extension to pry the tensioner down after dropping the engine.
Caravans have cheap water pumps! Plan to replace about every 3 years! I carry a spare in my van! Also sometimes that plastic impeller will break and cause engine overheat! James
they are really basic and plastic impellers too, all pumps wear out leak eventually though. they dont seem to leak fail any more often than more compicated design ones. around 100k miles roughly still like most others.
I’ve been following the posts since I have a 2004 3.3L that is probably living on borrowed time. It seems like the plastic impeller may be a problem (there were some that separated from the shaft) but like you said if you can get 80,000 miles out of a pump it can’t be all bad. However, I did find an AC Delco pump with a cast iron impeller and ordered it to just get ready. Oh, a big thanks to the guys who made the video it’s a big help knowing what to expect when doing this for the first time.
one thing to check is the steel water pump nipple that is pressed in the back of the water pump. Mine was all rusted out. I had to dremmel it out and put a new on in.
Nice job guys 👌👍👍 anyway how much the labor only..
Fkng good video, thanks
Was the pump/pulley actually removed without dropping the engine? After removing bolts pump/pulley, How long did it to slide out?
What process was used to actually access 5 bolts from PUMP?
There is a laboring sound made by my vans engine/pulleys with engine running. Pulley is wobbling.
I was testing to see if the laboring sound is internally in engine or pulleys, by REMOVING belt from van, laboring sound is gone, engine purrs.
Was this acceptable test to determine if sound was internal?
thanks for the posting...will be doing that soon on mine
how did you get that stubborn screw back in? i can get every screw in except the one that is kind of hidden. thanks
Brilliant!
Thanks much.
Would it have so hard for Chrysler to give an extra 1/2 inch to pull the pulley off? That is rediculus.
dont need to remove pulley anyways just remove pump with pulley hanging on the pump shaft,, easy no issue.,
@JasperCountyNative Got it done! Had to break the plastic fan on the back of the first one to get it out. Had to get my wife to use the crow bar while I put in the new one. I guess the clearances vary from one vehicle to the next. Glad it's over :)
Fantastic video, thank you! :-)
How exactly did you guys drop the pulley and pump? I got all the bolts out and everything loose but it won’t come out
I'm going to be pulling mine off soon any advice tricks or time savers maybe , keep in mind I have to do it from the ground
Maybe a little late, but for other DIY/shadetree folks or your future jobs:
You can use a screwdriver, spare ratchet, etc. to make those pulleys sit still, if for some reason having the belt on is impossible or not desired. You just use them like a cotter's pin to lock the pulleys down (placed inside them) but be careful to not lose them somewhere annoying or not be able to get them back out. Which is also useful trick if at a junkyard and the tires keep spinning but you need to get one of those $%@#ing wheels off. Carry a spare foot-long screwdriver/prying tool/45-degree tire iron for such adventures! Name your character Wedge. :P
Try getting an underbed storage bin that's about 2 feet by 1 foot (as in, around 30cmX60cm), as it'll make spills a lot less likely. The lid doubles as a place to catch screws and wrenches that slip! Also, have unrolled section of paper towels already ready to use.
Get some cheap $1-2 black knit gloves to avoid cuts and scraps. It's up to you if you think long-sleeved shirts will help or be a PITA.
Cat litter, the diatomaceous earth type being preferred. This will be handy if you spill anything nasty. Usually, the local county has a place to dispose of this.
Get a floor jack and largish board to lift the front end. Get some wheels and/or _solid_ bricks/boards into place in case your jack fails/slips. Use chocks of some sort and not just brakes. It could save your life doing those two! A buddy wouldn't hurt. Pros use full-sized lifts/bays, but for this job, kind of overkill.
Buy a new belt from Rockauto or somewhere local or whatever, and keep the old one as your spare with your jack. You WILL be glad you did this one day. Check the tensioner and idle pulleys, and replace them as well, if they are showing signs of wear. They're something like $5 each, and if they fail, you can lose a bunch of belts before you realize it's the pulleys.
If your radiator fluid is getting old (5 years for proper ones like Mopar-specified or Zerex G05), this would be a good time to flush. Beware that properly flushing this van takes specific steps. Look them up.
Look for signs of oil leaks while you're down in there and have everything loose. This engine is known for them.
Great video! The 10mm and 13 mm ratchet wrenches are needed, and I bought them yesterday, to remove the pully and pump. But how did you guys remove both with little space ? I'll figure it out when I get to that problem. Maybe wedge a pry bar inbetween motor and frame and try get more room? Or lower motor?
i used 1/4" drive ratchet and wobble extension with the 10mm socket very long extension and did pump bolts through pulley center.. worked good. dont have to rmeove pulley. not required.
Will this work the same on a 2008 Chrsyler Town & Country 3.3L? Thanks.
Great video. Thanks!
Nice tunes
I just did this on my 2007 Grand Caravan yesterday with just a jack stand. I feel like I did hours of bench presses. SOOOO sore! :( I had to drop the engine to get the pump out. How did you guys manage that?
3.3 ones need to lower engine down a lil. 3.8 ones can get away without lowering it
What year minivan is that?
On my 93, the water pump is to the right of the crank pulley and has a smooth pulley.
93 is old style all different than the 2000s ones yes. in around 2000 years and up the WP and such are all different pullies and configuration layout and etc.
and then on the cars like the eagle vision and the intrepids and LHS and others LH platform cars with the 3.3L in the early mid 90s years the WP is on the pass side front under alternator.
but on the vans and all the later years vehicles stuff the WP is towards rear more and underneath power steering pump in a bad place. it is on the other side of the engine totally and all different pullies brackets but same pump still. and on the car several of the WP bolts snapped off in the timing cover bad,. i had to drill and nut bolt and etc fix/rig it. im doing a WP on a 3.3L van 2007 one right now out here.
Yep - usually the return pipe is as far gone as the pump! Might as well replace that $20 part!
Where do you get that pulley tool from ? The one with the half inch drive on it
auto zone and etc have them. 20 bucks kit., i have one and didnt evne use it on my 3.3L WP job here. i just pry bar pried the tensioner down with a long extension drive bar..
I have the same type of van 96 plymouth voyager, The car has been leaking from the driver side but after taking off the water pipe that goes threw the engine and sealing it back togather with new seals n cylicon it still leaked water so I'm guessing it's either a bad water pump but not sure because then it would leak from passenger side but it does not, or maybe the engine is needing a new gasket???
Let me know if you got any information on this, My car is currently broken down till I get more information on what might be the problem.
96 is old style different layout and stuff. earlier style.
and is RTV really the same thing as the 3M weatherstrip adhesive? hmm? didnt drop the engine down a couple inches? really? wow.. lucky.. i hjad to drop the 3.3L one out here to get the WP off and out,,
Help. My pump is making noise but not leaking. Should I change?
yes bearings bad in it.. will leak sooner than later due to bearings shaft wear wobble. if its noisy then there will be shaft slop wear in it you can feel by hand
I have a 2002 Caravan 3.3 v6 will this video work for that year? also how long did it take?
exact same yes and about half hour if tools are ready
what was wrong with the old water pump?
My water pump on my 2001 grand caravan is under ac compressor in the front.
I'm not sure how many miles I have on my engine. Should I replace the belt just to be
safe ?
Thnx
if looks cracked dry rotted yup
yes if it is old original chrysler mopar one or is really old, or known high miles.
Did you use MOPAR or aftermarket waterpumps like Airtex?
they all last about the same amount of time regardless. they are all same aluminum housing with same design bearings and seal,.
does this apply to a 97 caravan as well?
How much time did it take ti do the job?
about 20 or 30 mins if have tools etc all ready to go
I was wondering u guys no why all lights on my weather board blinks off and on
Thank YOU
cool !!! thx
I just got one off of amazon dot com with a red plastic case for $26. Mine is a 3/8 drive but has a bar that attaches with a 1/2 drive. I just used it on the above engine to remove the belt.
i used long 3/8" extension bar on tensioner to pry it down and pull off belt.. works good fine
Helpful video, thanks. Just need more steady camera work. Got a little motion sick watching.
Thanks!
i cant get bypass tube back on rubber o ring keeps popping out why
Agreed.
Did I miss the step where you have to undo motor mount to drop engine a couple inches?
A Duralast water pump made by ASC, guess you will be changing it annually.
theyre all foreign made these days regardless of the box they are in., these all last same time.
thanx.
Replaced the water pump on a 2003 Town and country 3.8L
Video was mediocre. Camera shook a bit too much, could have extended time on some shots by even a couple seconds would help. I did, on the lighter side, find a couple decent tips, thanks! The Español at the beginning was moderately entertaining, and was kiboshed at an appropriate moment. Also, thanks to "Awesome Things" (UA-camr) for leaving your comment and shared your experiences..... now time for me and my buddies (Los Boludos) to start turning a wrench on our (my) water pump issue.
The 96-99 not so much, needs more than a 1/4" lowered to go that route. About 3" actually.
couple inches ya
Change that harmonic balancer, too...way too much rubber on that side, indicates the outer ring has walked over.
lol cool
whoa.this would be no fun on the ground.super job though
Looks too easy, what's the catch? lol
none really, clearing the pump and pulley at the body chassis frame is the hardest part, and the five pump bolts especialyl the top ones.
You can learn from inplix scripts how to make it yourself.
I did something very similar, new plans from Avasva helped me with this.
That didn't look very easy! I will be on the floor (crying)
Hi. My Caravan leaks anti freeze after I shut off the engine. Any ideas as to why?
is it getting too hot? rad hoses rock hard? remove the thermostat or try a new one. is the pump flowing coolant? impeller fins broken missing?
Thanks!