2005 Chrysler Town & Country Water Pump Impeller Failure - Overheating / No Hot Air from Vents
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- Опубліковано 6 чер 2016
- Shows how a water pump can fail and cause an overheating problem with one of the key symptoms being no heat from the heater vents. Water pump was not leaking prior to the failure and the over heating problem came on suddenly.
To each their own, but I just did an 03 dodge grand caravan water pump which is the same, it took about an hour to swap out the pump, actual working time, it took longer to gather my tools and pick up the pump, however, after watching many people do this job, I did a few things different, I didn't remove the splash guards in the wheel well, because it didn't really give me any better view of anything I needed to see, I didn't remove anything from the topside or lower the motor at all, I did loosen the 13mm pulley bolts with a standard wrench, but I also had to use another larger wrench for leverage, before removing the belt. To remove the belt, I didn't have the tool for the tensioner, and a 1/2" ratchet won't slip between the frame and the tensioner, however, one difference on the 03 dodge grand caravan is, the tensioner has a block on the end opposite the 1/2" opening, which I was able to clamp a pair of vise grips on, and with a little effort, I removed the belt, a little more leverage would have been nice, but it works, also I'm sure you could use the proper size wrench on the block, but I was already under the vehicle, and really don't like coming out if I don't need to, and the vise grips were handy. after removing the belt, I simply removed the pulley by putting the closed end 13 mm wrench on the bolt and using the wrench, the pulley will spin and run the bolts right out, then I removed the pulley, or at least I freed up the pulley, and let it hang on the pump. all the 10mm pump bolts were easy enough to remove with a 10 mm wrench, and a 1/4" ratchet with a 10mm socket, the biggest thing is, it takes a bit of positioning to keep the pulley out of the way, but it is worth the extra effort to view each bolt as a single job, and clear the belt and pulley out of the way each time you remove a bolt, I did two bolts with the wrench and three with the ratchet, the top bolt being the hardest, but the ratchet made it pretty simple. I also used a ratchet strap to drop thru from the top side of the engine compartment, to loop thru the pulley, that way I could use the strap hung over the fender, to hold the pulley up when needed, and the cloth strap won't scratch the fender. I watched a lot of videos on how others did this job, and just decided to take all the shortcuts I could, and still achieve the proper outcome. I knew the tools to take under the car with me by watching the videos on youtube, so thanks to everyone who took the time to post them, I used a floor jack, blocks to support the van along with the jack which I left in place, a 4-way to remove the wheel, 13mm wrench, 10mm wrench (with 5/8" wrench for leverage to loosen pump bolts initially), a large pair of vise grips, a large straight head screwdriver to pry pump loose, a plastic foot tub to catch antifreeze when the pump was pried loose (a lot of people said not to use the drain on radiator, since they are sometimes seized), a putty knife to clean the motor before installing the new pump, gasket sealer to keep the gasket from moving during install, and a drop light. Everything was accomplished by laying outside the car on passenger side, with head being under the car, just in front of the wheel hub, It took about an hour from the time I took the wheel off to completion of the pump install, I waited until I had filled the van with coolant and brought to full temperature with the heat on high, before I installed the tire, in order to check for leaks, Total time approx. 2 hours. Maybe this will help someone, all the videos sure helped me.
.. Thanks for the added tips / info to the job . I also look at a bunch of videos ( and read comments ) beforehand for auto / electrical / plumbing ,, or any DIY job for help .
Excellent video Jim. No one except you talked about how to access the "hardest" bolt easy and fast. Thank you.
The video's description says it all. I was hoping it wasn't a clogged radiator till I saw that cheap water pump impeller. Tomorrow moms Caravan is getting a new water pump. Thanks for taking the time to up the video with an appropriate description. It saved me much time searching the interweb. Great job describing the issues that I may run into as well.
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video!! My hubby and I are going to do this Sat. Morning. 🤞
Mighty Nice hearing your tough bolt removal tip..am going to use that when my pump gets removed!
Great video..... I have been struggling with that for 2 years .... Thank you
Good video ,,I'm learning more about my van, I like my van and always want it in good shape.
Thanks Jim. This has been a very helpful video....
Great video. I did the thermostat bit and now will just take it in to get the pump fixed. LOL.
Thanks for Posting !
And for ALL the
helpful tips !
Great job. You should get many thanks for taking the time and putting forth the effort to film and share this information with others. I've been working do this type work for 50+ yrs.. It always helps when a person can review or see what is involved before startiing a project like this. The bungy cords are a great idea. They're like a set of extra hands. I have a collection of them and it would be a pain with out them. Thank you
Great info. Thank you SIR!
That damn crack
Lol. Glad you got it sir. Great job
Happy New Year. Stay safe and may God Bless
Same thing happened to my 2013 Sonata 2.0T. Would run hot and would bubble out the radiator like a blown head gasket. Didn’t add up because car was running amazing still and no other symptoms. Just overheats and no heat. Only thing that made sense was the plastic impeller just broke off the hub of the water pump and the only thing that would spin would be the center hub. Pulled it off and exactly what I thought the plastic impeller broke off the hub shaft. Got a AutoZone metal one. Zero signs other water pump wear would spin perfectly the bearing was still tight and solid. Never just throw parts try and find the issue!!
Good job! Thank you, Sir!
I have had Caravans since 1985. My 2001 Caravan water pump went bad! I carry an extra water pump in my van! I have not seen these cheap Caravan water pumps last more than about 3 years! Have owned my van for 3 years and have replaced the water pump already! James
heard the head gasket issue also.
my car model is highly notorious for the plastic water pump impellers!
got the same symptoms as yours.....
Awesome 👍👍👍👍
If they had just squared the shaft at the point where the impeller goes on, it would never be able to spin loose.
Another mystery with these vans: Mine gives NO heat from the heater when the coolant is low. Like reservoir empty and radiator 4" low. But it does not overheat. You can drive it for 300 miles - no heater but it runs fine. It is a bizarre early warning system for low coolant. In my case leak was at water pump seal under pressure while driving, thus hardly a drop in the driveway. Weird science!
Los tres tornillos que estan en la parte de arriba se aflojan un poco para que la máquina baje y te de el espacio para trabajar, si tienes manos grandes va a ser más difícil
Great vid. How many miles before failure? I’m going to preventively replace mine at 60k miles. I found an AC Delco (AC Gold) pump at RockAuto that has a cast iron impeller. I saw another vid that the dude replaced the 10mm cap screws with grade 8 bolts because they.
seem the be liable to corrode and break when removed. Others drain the fluid by removing the down pipe to the pump rather than trying to loosen the plastic drain plug. Thanks for sharing with us “shadetree” mechanics that are just trying to get by so we keep our wheels on the road so we can get to work.
Always look for a water pump with a cast iron or steel impeller, this will not happen with cast iron or steel.
FYI the water pump that failed was the original factory unit with 112,500 miles on it. It had a plastic impeller just like the aftermarket replacement. The impeller fins showed no wear. Once removed you could see that the metal bushing had cracked which allowed the impeller to spin on the shaft, thus not pumping water anymore. The plastic impeller also had a crack, but had not yet started to disintegrate. It was not leaking any water, and gave no advance symptoms of impending failure.
Jim Dandy I have almost 335,000 miles on my 2005 T&C and just had to replace the original alternator. I'm thinking of going ahead and replacing the water and power steering pump. Great video thanks!
Jim Dandy need help.... 05 town and country leaking fluid... no hot air out of vents
Awesome Things wow. The word incorrect was incorrect. 😂
What is a 4x4 tool?
@@tamare2002 just a piece of wood. 😂
I like ur videos
pull engine toward driver side with ratchet strap and you get that 1/2 inch clearance.
👋👋👋👋 Great job. A +++
I gave u a like for a great video nice work handy dandy
That sure is a pain to change
Thermostat is designed to stay open if it fails. So yea it won't cool as good because the fluid doesn't sit in the radiator for a while to cool, it constantly keeps flowing, so getting hot that quick would either be no fluid (leak) or pump. I have to do mine, there is a very small amount of play, but out of all the pulleys the water pump is the worst.
I have changed the thermostat thinking that was my heating problem in the cab but that wasn’t it. I have a 2001 Chrysler town and country 3.3 LX. It’s not over heating yet but I can see the gauge getting close to the middle line the goes down a little when I speed up an get heat for a couple seconds to maybe a minute or two then gets cool, so I think it’s the water pump and I got a replacement today and that will tell me that it’s not the heater core in the front. Please let me know what you’re thoughts are on this. I’m getting ready to replace mine.
Like mine, the initial symptoms seemed like a failed thermostat, but that didn't fix yours or mine. My water pump failed in the summer and thus overheated. In your case, a failure in the winter would not as likely cause an overheat condition as the very cold air going through the radiator can overcome the lack of coolant flow in the system, especially if the van is moving down the road. I think it is very likely your water pump. Without proper flow in the coolant system your heater will not work correctly.
I have a water leak above the rear motor mount. Any ideas where the water is coming from?
Lol I see you he says... nothing wrong with some humor in a cussing situating
Did your radiator fan come on or not
Can you get a metal impeller. It seems like the plastic seems to a source of failure.
The original "OEM" was plastic, and it seems that plastic is the norm. It lasted 120k+ miles/12 years, so not bad. The plastic fins were in great shape, the problem was the metal ring that pressed onto the shaft, which cracked.
I have had 4 water pumps shatter the impeller in 4 pieces n the same car. 4 units failed from different manufactures. The cause a design flaw plastic should have never been used, as you get what you pay for -> Chrysler in design. I tried an aluminum impeller when it was available, then the seal failed(one unit). Then the aluminum replacement was only a plastic one available. the engine finally after 290k miles failed because of two lifters rollers. The roller was pitted or the chrome started pealing. The final tapping was from the middle of the engine being the camshaft. It was not the piston skirt slap some of Chrysler engines are known for. Sure the valve seals leaked giving the catalytic convertor efficiency code. Good engine for 290k may be. Almost lost another engine for the same reason, a newer 80k 2007 to 2004 swap. 5k on the new water pump and it turned the impeller loose. The gauge does not tell you until the intake with no water finally heats the sensor to make the gauge register. not water on the sensor it does not read the true temperature. Thanks, they placed it at the top of the engine where steam accumulates first. The coolant reservoir will puke because of the massive burp of steam from the radiator if you happen to notice. Hopes this helps the die-hard caravan users.
Yeah, a NO HEAT from heater means low coolant even though gauge is still normal. Weird.
Interesting explains why and how
I have a video of what is going on with my 2005 town and country van. If you could please watch these videos and give me back any feedback or any wisdom on my Van's issues? Please and thank you it would be very helpful. As I know nothing about vehicles.
Design engineers aren't mechanics
But they provide job security.