I’ve cut tons of fruit and hardwoods, basically anything that’s makes a waterproof seal will work. Paint it on the end and about 2”-3” back on all four sides from the end. Will stop the cracking probably %75. Also cut them when the humidity is high and temp low if you can. Then let them sit dry out of the sun. Letting the wood dry slow in a high humidity low temp time of the year for the initial drying will help.
Was just about to say latex paint but then you said it. LOL. I just got my 1st Cherry log out of the woods the other day. As you know I just recently got my HM126 set up but I have leftover paint so I will slap some on and keep you posted on it.
Anchorseal is designed to prevent checking and it works a bit better than latex paint. I have used both and I had a little more luck with Anchorseal. There are other wax based brands - search for green wood end sealer. Hardwood is a lot more prone to checking and splitting as it dries. Even with sealing the ends, I had some checking happening. The best results are if you can slow down the drying process by limiting exposure to sun.
Hi Chris from U.K. Sounds awful but on a lot of ash that had to be felled I used thick black roofing bitumen,after 7 months there is no splitting at all and the bitumen has dried out and is not even sticky. There is a bit of drag through buy the blade but not that bad and most good timber is usually planed any way worked great for me and it's a dam sight cheaper than anchor seal. The ends could be chain sawed off before milling if preferred.
im just a small time hobby operator, im thinking about thinning out latex paint and just spraying the ends of my logs right after i deck them. then you dont have to do the tedious work of painting each board end and having paint drip on everything. also. once your boards are stickered you can pop up a simple pvc hoophouse over the boards and use black plastic instead of clear plastic. i can pop up an 11’ wide x 20’ long hoop house in about 1 hour with about $50 worth of materials. just some thoughts
Chris I have had Cherry nearly explode during the cut. They seem to have tremendous tension built in. That particular one popped open a good 3" wide and about 3' down the plank and so loud it was startling over the noise of the engine. So I think Cherry is a tad unusual at least in my experience. Btw I never see anyone address motor rpms. I added a $20 tach and found the motor at 2800rpm under load out of the box. It should be at least 3500rpm under full load seeing as it is rated full hp at 3600rpm. I highly recommend a tach. Cuts MUCH faster now. Btw I had a 15" pine with so much tension that the last 4" of the cant was bowed up a quarter inch at each end so I flipped it over and clamped it down at the center 2 bunks with bar clamps and removed them as I approached them. Worked like a charm. That was a 14' + long beautiful pine from an 80' tree that fell near our house. The lumber from that one tree must be worth around $1000. 30" at the base. Had to trim the flare end to fit my 126 👍😎👌
I tried the bar clamp trick, too, but it takes too much time, shifting clamps from ahead of the blade to behind it at each bunk. What I'll try next time I have a cant that wants to curl as boards come off is flip it 180 after each board to see if that equalizes tension and reduces curl.
@@OregonOldTimer just 2 center bunks and about 20 seconds time is well worth it. I've done the flip it with each cut and it did not work. Let us know how it works for you👍
Thanks for the info Jim, and the tach seems like a great idea, I would like to try that. I am not the most mechanically inclined person, was it difficult to install?
@@ChrisBrackenridge I sure wish comments allowed pics. The tach costs about $23 and takes about 10 minutes to mount and install. One ground wire that I attached to the air filter mount and one you wrap 3 to 5 turns around the sparkplug wire. I have posted pics to the Woodland Mills fb group. I mounted it right below the WMs hour meter so I can easily watch it while cutting. Btw it comes set for a single cylinder engine out of the box but can be reset for anything with a spark. www.ebay.com/itm/Super-Waterproof-Tiny-Tach-Digital-Hour-Meter-Tachometer-Resettable-Job-Timer-US-/273180416431?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286
Out of the woods put out recently a video highlighting a pump sprayer designed to work with anchor seal. It gets diluted water 70 percent anchor/ 30 water. Sprayed on easy. Making it much more affordable.
I had same thing happen to my cherry, and what I’ve learned is that most fruit trees will check, curl, crack really quickly. I’ve since gotten some anchor seal to try out on cherry and hardwoods. I’m also going to do some experimenting with latex paint. As far as a quick way to keep your boards out of the sun, maybe look into a cheap carport to throw up over it? I have one over mine with sandbags holding it down and does a decent job so far. You may even be able to find one for free on Craigslist or fb marketplace. Amazon also has replacement tarp portions for them, if like me, you end up with one that was missing a top.
Keep the tops covered. Every stack should be covered, it's drying out to fast. As for anchorseal it's better than paint. Yet paints better than nothing. Put it on the butts of each log the same day you cut it down..
I'm new to all this as well. I plan on building a drying shed so it gets less sun and weather on it. I plan on painting the ends of the more expensive lumber as well. My cherry and oak I cut split really quick. I believe it was too much heat and sun in a short period of time.
@@ChrisBrackenridge especially considering the price of metal roofing now. Fortunately I pu about 25 sheets of 15' felt covered, on inside, green sheets at $1.75 per foot just before the "kovid" hit. A special order that never got pu. Their loss, my gain. It never sweats due to the felt lining which is a big plus. Sure would like to find about 10 more 😜 We sure got lucky or tuned in or something as I purchased the mill, the 306 Cat track hoe and all that steel roofing right before the shutdown. $ saved on mortgage interest (from 7.5 down to 2.75%) paid for all of it as well. I'm still in shock and our bell siphon sales for Aquaponics is off the charts as folks learn how to grow their own food 👍😎👌 Our little company is Smoky Mountain Aquaponics on ebay, Etsy and Amazon btw. Around 16,000 siphons sold now.
That's great happy for you that things have been going so well. I have to admit I don't know much about aquaponics but I checked out some of your videos it seems really interesting.
Anchorseal is about forty bucks a gallon. A gallon goes a long way, especially compared to the life of a blade:) As Billy said, paint the log, so each board you cut is already sealed.
Cherry being an hardwood, left to the elements the ends will split and boards cup. I put all my hardwoods (oak, maple, beech, birch) inside out of the sun and wind for an even drying. I always cut the boards as long as possible so when using the end get cut off and I have lots left to work with if splitting occurs. As for softwood I stack and sticker, then cover with old tin roofing along a tree line out of the sun. Imo save your money anchor seal isn’t cheap.
Thanks for the info, I would like to build a shed for drying in the future, maybe for now I can try to steal a spot in the barn somewhere to pile hardwood.
Look for end sealers that aren’t ripping you off with the price… Pretty sure you can use latex paint as a cheaper option, 2 or 3 coats…. Some sort of Wax sealer… Maybe paint it immediately after felling, don’t let it sit and start to dry.
I’ve cut tons of fruit and hardwoods, basically anything that’s makes a waterproof seal will work. Paint it on the end and about 2”-3” back on all four sides from the end. Will stop the cracking probably %75. Also cut them when the humidity is high and temp low if you can. Then let them sit dry out of the sun. Letting the wood dry slow in a high humidity low temp time of the year for the initial drying will help.
Was just about to say latex paint but then you said it. LOL. I just got my 1st Cherry log out of the woods the other day. As you know I just recently got my HM126 set up but I have leftover paint so I will slap some on and keep you posted on it.
Nice! thanks I appreciate that.
Anchorseal is designed to prevent checking and it works a bit better than latex paint. I have used both and I had a little more luck with Anchorseal. There are other wax based brands - search for green wood end sealer. Hardwood is a lot more prone to checking and splitting as it dries. Even with sealing the ends, I had some checking happening. The best results are if you can slow down the drying process by limiting exposure to sun.
Thanks for the advice, the next hardwood i cut i will try stacking it in a barn maybe.
Hi Chris from U.K. Sounds awful but on a lot of ash that had to be felled I used thick black roofing bitumen,after 7 months there is no splitting at all and the bitumen has dried out and is not even sticky. There is a bit of drag through buy the blade but not that bad and most good timber is usually planed any way worked great for me and it's a dam sight cheaper than anchor seal. The ends could be chain sawed off before milling if preferred.
Thanks for the suggestion, that sounds promising, I'm never against trying something out.
im just a small time hobby operator, im thinking about thinning out latex paint and just spraying the ends of my logs right after i deck them. then you dont have to do the tedious work of painting each board end and having paint drip on everything. also. once your boards are stickered you can pop up a simple pvc hoophouse over the boards and use black plastic instead of clear plastic. i can pop up an 11’ wide x 20’ long hoop house in about 1 hour with about $50 worth of materials. just some thoughts
Thanks, I appreciate it, always looking for ways to improve what I'm doing.
correction “latex stain”
@@pacothompson7161 O.k. thanks
Chris I have had Cherry nearly explode during the cut. They seem to have tremendous tension built in. That particular one popped open a good 3" wide and about 3' down the plank and so loud it was startling over the noise of the engine. So I think Cherry is a tad unusual at least in my experience. Btw I never see anyone address motor rpms. I added a $20 tach and found the motor at 2800rpm under load out of the box. It should be at least 3500rpm under full load seeing as it is rated full hp at 3600rpm. I highly recommend a tach. Cuts MUCH faster now. Btw I had a 15" pine with so much tension that the last 4" of the cant was bowed up a quarter inch at each end so I flipped it over and clamped it down at the center 2 bunks with bar clamps and removed them as I approached them. Worked like a charm. That was a 14' + long beautiful pine from an 80' tree that fell near our house. The lumber from that one tree must be worth around $1000. 30" at the base. Had to trim the flare end to fit my 126 👍😎👌
I tried the bar clamp trick, too, but it takes too much time, shifting clamps from ahead of the blade to behind it at each bunk. What I'll try next time I have a cant that wants to curl as boards come off is flip it 180 after each board to see if that equalizes tension and reduces curl.
@@OregonOldTimer just 2 center bunks and about 20 seconds time is well worth it. I've done the flip it with each cut and it did not work. Let us know how it works for you👍
Thanks for the info Jim, and the tach seems like a great idea, I would like to try that. I am not the most mechanically inclined person, was it difficult to install?
@@ChrisBrackenridge I sure wish comments allowed pics. The tach costs about $23 and takes about 10 minutes to mount and install. One ground wire that I attached to the air filter mount and one you wrap 3 to 5 turns around the sparkplug wire. I have posted pics to the Woodland Mills fb group. I mounted it right below the WMs hour meter so I can easily watch it while cutting. Btw it comes set for a single cylinder engine out of the box but can be reset for anything with a spark.
www.ebay.com/itm/Super-Waterproof-Tiny-Tach-Digital-Hour-Meter-Tachometer-Resettable-Job-Timer-US-/273180416431?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286
@@fiskfarm Thanks! That sounds great I think I will look into that.
Out of the woods put out recently a video highlighting a pump sprayer designed to work with anchor seal. It gets diluted water 70 percent anchor/ 30 water. Sprayed on easy. Making it much more affordable.
Nice, thanks I will have to check that out.
I had same thing happen to my cherry, and what I’ve learned is that most fruit trees will check, curl, crack really quickly. I’ve since gotten some anchor seal to try out on cherry and hardwoods. I’m also going to do some experimenting with latex paint. As far as a quick way to keep your boards out of the sun, maybe look into a cheap carport to throw up over it? I have one over mine with sandbags holding it down and does a decent job so far. You may even be able to find one for free on Craigslist or fb marketplace. Amazon also has replacement tarp portions for them, if like me, you end up with one that was missing a top.
Thanks good idea, yes I think I will be doing some experimenting as well.
Keep the tops covered. Every stack should be covered, it's drying out to fast. As for anchorseal it's better than paint. Yet paints better than nothing. Put it on the butts of each log the same day you cut it down..
I'm new to all this as well. I plan on building a drying shed so it gets less sun and weather on it. I plan on painting the ends of the more expensive lumber as well. My cherry and oak I cut split really quick. I believe it was too much heat and sun in a short period of time.
Great advice, i will put it into practice, thanks.
Yes, I would love to have a drying shed as well, I think that will be a ways down the road for me though.
@@ChrisBrackenridge especially considering the price of metal roofing now. Fortunately I pu about 25 sheets of 15' felt covered, on inside, green sheets at $1.75 per foot just before the "kovid" hit. A special order that never got pu. Their loss, my gain. It never sweats due to the felt lining which is a big plus. Sure would like to find about 10 more 😜 We sure got lucky or tuned in or something as I purchased the mill, the 306 Cat track hoe and all that steel roofing right before the shutdown. $ saved on mortgage interest (from 7.5 down to 2.75%) paid for all of it as well. I'm still in shock and our bell siphon sales for Aquaponics is off the charts as folks learn how to grow their own food 👍😎👌 Our little company is Smoky Mountain Aquaponics on ebay, Etsy and Amazon btw. Around 16,000 siphons sold now.
That's great happy for you that things have been going so well. I have to admit I don't know much about aquaponics but I checked out some of your videos it seems really interesting.
Chris where do you buy your saw blades Woodland Mills is a little pricey
So far I have just got mine from woodland mills, so I don't really have any recommendations that I can personally attest to.
Anchorseal is about forty bucks a gallon. A gallon goes a long way, especially compared to the life of a blade:)
As Billy said, paint the log, so each board you cut is already sealed.
That seems like the way to go, I will for sure be trying that on the next hardwood trees I cut.
Cherry being an hardwood, left to the elements the ends will split and boards cup. I put all my hardwoods (oak, maple, beech, birch) inside out of the sun and wind for an even drying. I always cut the boards as long as possible so when using the end get cut off and I have lots left to work with if splitting occurs. As for softwood I stack and sticker, then cover with old tin roofing along a tree line out of the sun. Imo save your money anchor seal isn’t cheap.
Thanks for the info, I would like to build a shed for drying in the future, maybe for now I can try to steal a spot in the barn somewhere to pile hardwood.
Look for end sealers that aren’t ripping you off with the price…
Pretty sure you can use latex paint as a cheaper option, 2 or 3 coats….
Some sort of Wax sealer…
Maybe paint it immediately after felling, don’t let it sit and start to dry.
Yes, some of the sealers seem a little pricey in my opinion, thanks for the suggestions.