BMW X3 3.0L GM5L40E Transmission
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
- GM 5L40E Valve body service from draining the oil to test drive.
The Transmission on this BMW X3 2006 M54 Engine was holding too long at high revs. BMW does not recommend any service on this GM 5L40E Transmission. It is considered a lifetime gearbox. To replace the gearbox for a shifting fault is not very economic for an older car. The parts are available under the General Motors numbers and we got a complete re-build kit as it would cover all we needed for a valve body service.
This is a long video and you can see the valve service from start to finish and could work along with the video. We would recommend that you pause or come back to the parts you need to see.
Parts used in this video
Shop Manual: amzn.to/31S7iwL
Oil filter kit: amzn.to/3mh6glo
Transmission Oil amzn.to/3mefZZQ
Transmission Gasket Set amzn.to/3uh9hZH
Rebuilt Valve Body amzn.to/2VChRn7 (For when you don't want to rebuild yours)
I found it better to buy the complete transmission gasket set even though I did not need all of the parts. It just made it easy and in the long run it was cheaper than just trying to buy individual gaskets and seals.
We love our scissor lift, read about why we choose it here
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Thanks for watching.
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i think you should be a lecturer, you will do so well for your students. Nice one and clear explanations.
Thank you.
Excellent, well explained video! I have a 2007 X3 which makes some pretty clunky low speed gear transitions, so I think this job is in my future, and now I am confident to tackle the job myself. Thank you for taking the time to do the video so well.
Thank you Bryan for the great comment. We have more work to do to the X3 that we plan to cover.
I managed to follow every step just brilliant Thanks all the best from NZ
Glad it helped
Kurt
Thank's for your video & clean working
You are welcome
Very helpful. I plan to replace 2 of the 5 solenoids on my 5L40E transmission. Your video shows very clearly how to easily remove and install them.
Glad it helped
Thanks for watching
Good afternoon and good health to everyone. Thank you very much for sharing 🙏👍. Have a wonderful weekend 👍
Thanks and to you too...
NICE VIDEO!
Glad you enjoyed it
Kurt
Nice job! I was glued to the entire video
Glad you enjoyed it!
3C EGS: Transmission switch
54. EGS: control unit, internal fault 5 (FET2)
BMW 2003 325i. GM transmission
Codes pulled from the car. Is that the Neutral Safety switch? Judging from your video it seems to be inside the trans
@@klassikats ....
The transmission downshifts hard. It's an automatic
@@jsolo7576 That sounds like an accumulator issue, check for broken springs in the accumulator
Maestro ! great vid Kurt.....................thank you
Glad you enjoyed it!
Kurt
Just be aware that when you clip the Solenoids back in, the little clip does NOT go on the inside of the valve but the outside! 40:26
Ok? not really sure what you are talking about here as there is only one spot the clip can go to hold the solenoid in place.
@@klassikats if you look at the video again the solenoid clips were inserted on the wrong side of the body. Example 40:26
One other observation just for future preference, I am in the middle of doing the same with the help of your video, I noticed that the inter plate gaskets one side is different from the other, in order to make sure I install them properly I reviewed your disassembly.
Great video thanks
Glad you enjoyed it.
Kurt
Ha, read you reply, was thinking I was imagining you switching between accents
What accent?
Great video. Just did this for my e53 (X5). The gasket kit in the description (from China) doesn’t come with check balls. The kit listed (by Kurt) in a comment (which is no longer available on Amazon), does. I found a large circular groove worn into the spring-seated check ball, also observed some variation in size, so now I’m waiting on new check balls to finish the job and reinstall the valve body. That stiff spring was a bear - good tip to use a 1/4” socket to depress it!
Glad it helped and yes parts availability these days is rough. We are seeing a lot of issues across all parts on all the cars we are working on.
Kurt
So I got out my calipers last night and was surprised to see 11 of the 12 balls were hardly worn at all. Best I can tell, new ones are either .250 or 6.5mm, mine were all ~.248”. The 12th ball, which is spring driven has a deep groove on the spring side, and a light groove opposite. I definitely need to replace that one.
One more thing - I was watching another valve body rebuild here (Gary F), and noticed that the separator plate gaskets are different (upper and lower). According to his video, the gasket with the elongated oval needs to be on the side facing the check ball, and the one with two circular holes needs to face the valve body. It looks like your assembly reversed this - maybe it’s not critical? Thanks for responding.
35:25 on this video
m.ua-cam.com/video/v_eP4QkFp0g/v-deo.html
Thank you very much
You are welcome
Gracias, buen vídeo, justo lo que necesitaba ver, donde puedo comprar los repuestos? Gracias de nuevo amigo.
Thanks, good video, just what you needed to see, where can I buy the parts? Thanks again friend
Search by " GM 5L40E " and pick up an overhaul kit rather than the pricey master kit
@@klassikats What's the difference between the two?
Hi Andrew, Overhaul kit is just gaskets and seals while a master has more parts including kit friction discs and bands.
Great video. My trans isn't acting up but I most certainly plan on doing a modified version of what you displayed here, as I certainly dont believe in lifetime fluids and have no knowledge of the transmissions past service history. I hear a lot of folks that believe cleaning either an older engine or an older transmission will remove the "crud" (for lack of a better definition) holding all the seals etc together and that ultimately you'll end up with a leaking/faulty engine or transmission. This makes perfect sense to me and I can imagine how something like this could happen . I'd like to know what you folks (professional transmission builders) think.
Can servicing a transmission by cleaning it (fluid replacement is fine) cause your transmission to leak/ malfunction when it previously wasn't?
Great video,subbed and many thanks from Oakland Ca.
Hi Andrew, thank you for your coment and sub!. Just changing the fluid and filter and cleaning out the oil pan is very unlikely to create any problems. Even cleaning the outside of the transimission is not going to induce a seal or gasket to leak. In most cases when someone has cleaned a componenet and then noticed leaks after is usually only because the dirt is absorbing the oil weepage. In any case the actual gasket/seal was leaking and cleaning it did not make it leak any more. It will also depend on your enviroment, we live on a dirt road and in a dusty area so dirt/dust will stick to things especially when there is oil present. If you live in the city, the odds are that the dirt you are going to get under the car is going to be very different and unlikely to seal anything up.
my god... if I could subscribe a thousand times I would!
Thank you I do appreciate that so much
Thank you very much 👍
You are very welcome,
thanks for watching
Kurt
at 1:05:30 why are you using the Indicator on a BMW? Isn't it against the law?
We must have forgot we were driving a BMW that day.
Lol i read this comment like whaaat? And then saw and haha yea no turn signals! 🤪
Que buen trabajo
Me podria indicar que kilometraje tenia esa X3 al momoento de hacer ese mantenimiento?
Yo tengo una X3 2.0 diésel con 31000 km modelo 2010 nunca le he cambiado el aceite de la transmisión, asi que me gustaria saber cuando debo hacer ese mantenimiento.
Muchisimas gracias por su respuesta👊👊👊👍👍👍👌👌👌
Hello Jose. The miles on this car was 175,000, which is about 280,000Km. Your miles is a lot less, 31,000Km is about 19,375 miles. But I would change the oil from time.
Thanks for watching!
Them plastic zipers are not made to last or withstand high temps. It will end up breaking off .....JB weld the clips back together 😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😅😅😅😊😊
The only real fix is to replace them.
Kurt
Thank you,Great video,very informative!.do you have a link to where i can buy the valve body to transmission case gasket ?
We used a gasket set, Transmission Gasket Set amzn.to/37zt0cl
Thanks for watching
@@klassikats i mean can i buy it separately?
Hey mate, that was a great video, I have a Holden WL caprice 2005, it has a 5L40e transmission, it has a problem when I move the shifter from park to the lower gear, it comes up on the dash ESP FAIL, I have plugged the scanner in, it comes up with the error message P1825, internal mode switch illegal range.
I googled it
Causes
Internal mode switch failure
Shift cable damage or it’s out of adjustment
Do U have any advice?
By the way your accent sound half American half Aussie.
Could watch the video all day, I am very amateur at working on my own car, just started doing things myself & saving heaps of money 💰
By the way , the problem can happen when the car is stopped, idling, or when in drive, driving along the highway etc, from drive moving slowly down through the shifter until it reaches the 2 lowest gears, then beeps, put the car in limp mode.
I stop, turn the car off, take key out, it resets itself, then drives perfect in normal drive gear, only happens in 2 lowest gears???
Looks like you need a new selector switch. You have a good ear, I left Australia in 1995. The last Holden we had was a 1986 Commodore. Dark Red outside and matching velour inside.
I have a problom with my 2003 318d bmw gm 5l40e transmission. Firs start after 5 and more hour parking, car doesnot move in D gear, firt ı shift to M1 and M2 after2 minutes driving the car, ı shift back to D and the the problem disappears. What can cause this problem
There can be so many different reasons for this. Low oil pressure or low fluid level can cause this, bad electrical connections to solenoids. I would suggest taking the car to a shop for diagnosis's.
Kurt
@@klassikats diagnostic tool gives code 34 - gear control 2
Nice vid u explain very well i have a problem with my e46 318i i put it in drive then it jumps out drive 3 times before it holds the gear an keep me going it happen the other again i am concerned now u have any ideas what could cause this issue
There could be several things going on. It could be a solenoid issue where it is not holding. It could be a wear issue depending on how many miles are on the transmission. It could also be an oil pressure issue; the PWM Solenoid may be sticking open, causing oil pressure loss.
I would start with scanning the system for codes. Then, drop the oil pan for a fluid and filter change. Also, assess the oil condition and the amount of debris in the bottom of the oil pan.
Kurt
explication perfect and video perfect !Exellent !
I see Valve body gm 5l40e on aliexpress for low price ,you have check this solution?
Thanks for this good job !
Thanks Renard,
No I have not had a chance to use the Aliexpress valve body. My only question would be what calibration package is installed in the accumulators. Otherwise it is most likely an okay replacement.
The kit on Amazon does not include the balls. What size are they? .250" 1/4?
not sure I would have to measure what came out of the transmission.
Kurt
Great tutorial. Very precise. Anyway, I have a question. Is the valve body and the repair kit the same for petrol and diesel engines? In US they mounted theese GMs in petrol BMW's but in EU we only have them i in diesel engines. I think valve body should be the same, but I'm not sure. Maybe anybody knows... There's never diesel engine on the list when you look for the repair kit, but it might be more like market thing not real fitment list.
Marcin,
The physical valve body will be the same, where the difference will be is in the calibration package installed. Since these transmissions use shift solenoids to change gears the shift points will be changed electronically. However, the difference will be with the accumulator springs installed in the valve body. Because diesel engines have different torque curves and run at different RPM''s than a gas engine the shift points will be different in a transmission for diesel versus gas engines. In the days before computer controls shift points were modified using different spring pressures and governors to change the shift points.
Thanks for watching
Hi, Can't find out the right spring order for a 2003 E46 330XD 204cv, same 96021042 direct Clutch as there, but all 3 others are 96020761 (smallest pistons), only Sonnax provide some data, but BMW data don't match... mystery.
Nice video btw...
Sorry I thought i had replied to this comment. BMW themselves will not provide any information on the springs and their locations as they say you have to replace the entire transmission. I found that by searching the internet i was able to find a couple of sites that gave a break down on accumulator spring locations. although the information can be very lacking and only cover some model applications. Unfortunately the only good way to know for sure is to have watched what spring cam from where in your specific transmission. This document here helps alot with explanations but again does not give spring locations. akppservice.by/assets/files/5L40E.pdf
@@klassikats Hi, already know this document, most complet out there... thx anyway
i ve been trickin myself.... first i had stored parts in right place, but having find a range rover tear down tutorial i didn't care anymore about location and time passed, when i went back to assembly i discovered that location are not standard...but i had already mixed parts, big miss, unable to remember clearly what goe where, i assembled it same as range rover tutorial. working on a long complete controle and rebuild (engine, transmission, front and rear car tear down...naked chassis ) of an E46 i still don't have tested it right now, hope i ll be all right and may i came back to tell something about it. thx
You can always slow down our video and look at the spring paint markings. I know that I confirmed them using the video before doing the actual re-assembly. Just for reference in this transmission, the spring installation order was
Direct clutch = Spring with White Paint marking
Overdrive Clutch = Spring with Orange Paint marking
Intermediate Clutch = Spring with Orange Paint marking
Second Gear = Plain spring no paint marking
hope that helps
thanks again for watching
Thanks for this video. Very clear explanation of how to perform this job. I am looking to tackle this job myself. Do you have a link to purchase the valve rebuild kit? The link that is under the video doesnt work.
Jeremie,
Thanks for letting us know that the link is not working. Here is a new one to the gasket set. amzn.to/3uh9hZH You will have a few gaskets left over but it is the best way to do the job.
Thanks
Kurt
@@klassikats thanks for providing that. Is there any link you can provide or recommendations for the valve body kit?
A question I had was 40:30 u say to make sure to gently push in the solenoids however if they seem to hard to push in needing too much pressure how would I go about inserting the solenoid c specifically
Make sure you have the correct Orings installed and that they have been lubricated. When pushing the solenoids in you can give them a slight twist to help the oring slide into the valve body. It should feel pretty smooth as you push them in.
Kurt
excellent video, i followed this on the l322. i used a heat gun to soften my multi plugs worked a treat,
question.do the tcm tcc have any bearing on reverse gear?, no codes stored but it is a bit harsh on initial engagement,not as slick as forward gears.
The TCC circuit is not in play during reverse. It is activated at highway speeds in top forward gears to eliminate torque convertor slip.
Kurt
Hi i just found out my E53 x5 didn’t not engage to Reverse gear and I doesn’t move when it’s cold I would say because when they car already run for like 10km it’s actually engaged to Reverse but only moves few meters and free the gear back again . Is it having a dirty valve body ?
Sounds more like a clogged oil filter. However the bad thing about that would be the material that is clogging the filter comes from the transmission itself.
great video and loads of info ..I have BMW E46 with GM5L40E and it has been repaired now 3 times within 50K #1 was reverse drum circlip area broke .had all new everything #2 same as #1 reverse drum c/clip area broke again ..repairer said wrong c/clip used ..again all new friction plates and machining of drums ..machining of converter ..#3 dash gear cog fault light limp mode 2nd gear code PO732 2nd gear ...car had only done 15K /km 3 weeks out of warranty ..bad luck..got car back and still seems not right ..torque converter still seems to slip maybe 1500rpm before lockup ...can you give me an idea on what the converter should be doing say from 80kph to 100kph ...service center says I should bring back in 6000km for oil change and change oil every 12 months ..the thing is when motor was cold there were no faults ..changed gear up and down no problems ..would go miles without any problems but if stopped for awhile and when started off again the code and fault cog would be on and in limp mode again .I am thinking maybe bad sealing of oring that would allow loss of pressure when oil thins out when hot on my INPA OBD transmission temp is 90c.which I would say is normal engine temp 95c...any help would be appreciated ...oh I am in Thailand the land of no tradies in auto game ...
Billy,
The 2nd gear fault code means that the transmission is experiencing a ratio error. This means that the input shaft speed and output shaft speeds are not what they should be for the gear selected. This can be caused by an electrical issue, (shift solenoid), or a mechanical issue,(like a clutch pack or band slipping or sticking). I would start with the checking the solenoid circuit and operation.
When it comes to the torque convertor there will always be a certain amount of slip until the ECM commands the TCC, (torque convertor clutch), to lock. This will happen in 4th gear and is done with a shift solenoid that directs fluid into the convertor to apply the clutch. If the TCC is slipping or not applying it will set a ratio code in 4th or 5th gear as engine RPM wont match input shaft RPM.
If you dont have a skilled transmission shop available i would suggest purchasing an exchange transmission from outside the country.
@@klassikats thanks for that reply and useful tips ..yes next time I think I will get another transmission from wreckers here that import low Ks e46 cars from Japan rip it apart and do the lot myself ...the shop just charged me for 12x200 GM5 minor o/haul kit minus clutch discs .cost $788 AU just for that I agreed to pay for parts because when cold there was no problem only when I parked after a run and drove away then there was the problem ...all up for the parts and oil I paid $1009 AU ...
Great video! doing this work soon on my 2004 BMW 325i E46 5L40E, never serviced with 224K miles. Got ATF Mobile1 D/M Oil. Is this correct type for GM transmissions?
The oil you have is a Dexron 3 type oil that is NOT for this Transmission. This transmission calls for a Dexron 6 type oil. The main difference between the oils is viscosity. The Dexron 3 is a thicker weight of oil than the Dexron 6, the Dexron 6 is also a full Synthetic ATF which a bunch of different fiction modifiers in it. I have put a complete list of the items we used along with links to buy in the description.
But here they are as well just in case:
Shop Manual: amzn.to/31S7iwL
Oil filter kit: amzn.to/3mh6glo
Transmission Oil amzn.to/3mefZZQ
Transmission Gasket Set amzn.to/37zt0cl
You may have to copy and paste the link into your browser.
Thanks for watching us
What a great Video. Thank you. Thinking about doing this in my 2004 M57 X3. Do you know if you can get the gasket set here in Germany?
I would think that you should be able to get those in Germany, though im just not sure where you would find them.
Kurt
@@klassikats Thank you for the reply. Did a little digging and you have to buy everything separately here, if you can get it at all. And it is laughably expensive. The two gaskets between valve body and transmission are 35 - 50 eur each 😲
Hi. AMAZING video, thanks. Greatly told what to do on certain parts. I have also question on these transmissions, I have this transmission on X5 BMW, and I was wondering, should it always do the engine braking? I have seen it to do it on one non-4wd BMW, and I am not sure should it effect on the transmission funktions. No faulty codes for BMW INPA tester atleast.
All transmissions will apply a certain amount of engine braking. A lot of it is going to be determined by the control parameters programmed into the shift pattern. A large amount of manufacturers will program the transmissions to get into top gear and stay there as long as possible to try and maximize fuel incoming. This does not help much with engine braking. What I usually suggest is to move the shift lever into manual mode to use the best gear to control downhill speeds. This way you can override any programming features that will try to select higher gears. Once you are down the hill shift back into automatic mode and continue on.
Thanks for watching our video
@@klassikats Did my valve body like on this video, only those 2 clips on solenoids at 40min did go from wrong side (only harder to change solenoids after, but no effect for working) and 2 first gaskets (but almost identical so not really matter for working either). Else this was better than perfect, thank you so much
I have code P0848 TFP sensor B high input
Would that cause the car to be in limp mode and have rough shifts?
Also is it a matter of just replacing sensor B?
Very helpful video by the way👍
Yes, this code can absolutely result in rough shifts. The pressure sensor is seeing a high pump pressure, a high pump pressure will result in harsh shifts. Changing the sensor will most likely not solve the issue. I would start by performing a pressure test and confirming the actual operating pressure in the transmission. In these transmissions, the fluid pressure is controlled by a modulating solenoid. If the solenoid is blocked with debris or has failed closed then it will result in high operating pressures in the transmission. You will need to also check that the solenoid is receiving a signal to modulate pressure. If not there may be a control unit issue or a wiring issue in between the transmission and the control unit. Unless you have access to the tooling and a lift I would recommend taking this one to a transmission shop.
Just found this video after experiencing some slow shifting issues in my E46 with this trans. Put a 3.0 engine in to replace the tired 2.5 and the trans doesn't want to hold the increase in power. I believe I used a dex 3 fluid which may be contributing to my issues. Had zero issues before the engine swap. Trans has 170k miles on it, thinking about just going with a fresh rebuild unless you think I could revive the trans with a valve body overhaul?
Matthew,
170K on a transmission is pretty high mileage and I would say it is certainly time to go through and rebuild the whole thing.
Thanks for watching
hello guys. here i have a weird issue. around 6 years i took my car to transmission rebuilded, it's a GM 5L40E. well everything was good transmission gears shift felt smooth. but when summer arrived to the town then Air aconditioner Mandatory in Used. transmission slip a little bit in first gears. feels after around 30 minutes of AC on. if I drive agrecive Mode Style by long periode. this symtoms appear too... for Normal Drive Style and no AC on. transmission shift smooth. i just wondering torque converter, transmission oil pump or valve body. wich of thise could make this issue. oviuosly happen when oil warmed up or transmission over heating. Note no warning light and No codes. any idea i will appresiate. thanks guys.
It sounds more like a temperature issue than the actual A/C system being at fault. The A/C system should have no bearing on the transmission operation. The only thing that I can think of would be if there is some kind of electrical interference coming from the A/C system that is maybe affecting the pressure control circuit of the transmission.
It something where you will need to put pressure gauges on the transmission and drive it to see what is happening while the transmission is hot and driving with the A/C on.
Kurt
Really good explanation . I have a question , which of this parts can make the Gear Monitoring error ?
Sub added ;)
A gear monitoring error can be created by a lot of different things. However, the most common issue is the neutral safety switch
Can you replace the neutral safety switch without taking the vavle body off?
The valve body will need to be removed to access the Neutral safety switch
thanks for watching
had a question if possible. should i change the shift solenoids as maintenance at 100,000 miles seeing as they will be in my face when changing filter? thanks for any advice
Only if you wanted to. Usually shift solenoids have a long life and really dont fail that often. Usually when they do fail is from cloging from dirty transmision fluid. So doing a fluid change with a filter is already a great thing.
thanks for watching
Does the rebuild valve body ready to install right away into the transmission? I have a BMW X5 e53 3.0i 2006 (GM) automatic transmission with 135k miles on it and I'm having transmission failsafe mode right now on my dashboard, will it take cares the present problem after replacing the valve body?
It will depend on what the actual problem is, if it is a valve body issue then it will take care of the problem but you will still need to clear the codes stored in the transmission control unit.
@@klassikats thank you for the reply, i will keep in touch after having my car diagnose at the shop
Gasket Parts are not available. Lmk if you can can do the valve body service I'll pay $$$ mine does the high rev its 06 X3 smh. But I will pay for a remanufactured one lmk
Allen, Yes parts availability at the moment seems to be an issue with a lot of items. I do expect that they will be back in stock at some point. In the meantime Amazon has a rebuilt valve body in stock, that you can purchase. Here is the link to buy, amzn.to/2VChRn7
Thanks for watching and good luck with your repair
Do you think a clogged valve body will cause no forward or reverse ?
My trans stop working so I changed the fluid it smelled burned and was black so I replaced the filter and the oil and it drove perfect fine,few days later the trans stopped working again and the new filter was dirty again.
No, if the fluid was black and smelled burnt then the transmission is done and it is time for a rebuild. More than likely the filter is being clogged by debris off the clutch packs as the friction material is flaking off.
Time to pull it out and go though the entire transmission
Kurt
@@klassikatsok thank you , is there a way to test the the clutch packs ? I took the valve body apart and it had small metal flakes and 1 kinda melted check ball inside ,can that maybe cause the trans fluid to be burnt ?
When the clutches and or bands slip in the transmission they create excess heat. This results in the transmission fluid being burnt. The burnt fluid is the symptom and not the cause. With BMW it is tough because they do not have a service schedule for the transmission. Changing the transmission oil every 25,000 miles will remove normal debris from the system and will prolong the life of the transmission. when fluids and filters are not changed, the oil flow and condition will become diminished. This in-turn can result in slow clutch application which will increase wear.
Kurt
Great video. I have just the p0734 after driving a few minutes. No slipping or other codes. Notice solenoids 1 and 3 show as inactive and 2 as always active when ignition on. When testing that same solenoid, no clicking but others click. Transmission oil was changed a year ago at 110k for first time, code went away but coming back. Any suggestions?
So the P0734 code indicates that the input and output speeds are different when they should be the same in 4th gear, (1 to 1 gear ratio with torque convertor locked up). A shift soleniod that has failed could cause that if the PCM is calling for 4th gear but the transmission is not engaging due to a shift issue. Although you will usally have other syptoms, like a flare, (long pause), between shifts and holding a lower gear. Solenoids should click and move when activated. So if you have one that is not working then certainly replace it. However, it may not solve your issue. The issue can also be caused by the TCC solenoid or it could also be the torque convertor lock up clutch itself. If there is any slippage in the torque convertor lock up clutch, it will set a P0734 code and you will usually not notice any slipping when driving.
thanks for watching
@@klassikats Thank you. Advice you can take to the bank Would solenoids codes show up if solenoid is failing or stuck on? I thought it should but didn't see any other codes. And what are your thoughts about using lucas transmission fix/conditioner or other addictive in these transmissions with transmission oil changes?
@@dodoitdave1346 Yes and no, if the shift solenoid has a failure like an open circuit in the winding then yes you will get a solenoid code like P0758, etc. If the solenoid is stuck or there is debris in the filter screen you are more likely to get a code like Gear # incorrect ratio. The # will be whatever gear range is being affected.
When it comes down to putting an additive into a transmission or an engine, their effectiveness will depend on the internal condition, to begin with. A good additive may prolong a good functioning transmission but will not ever fix a malfunctioning transmission. I generally stay away from aftermarket additives and will stick with good quality factory approved fluids only.
I have a question. Did you put these gaskets correctly? I gave it just like you, but the diagram shows otherwise😑
I hope you are right🤣
Yes, I did correctly install all gaskets and seals and the valve body is functioning well in the vehicle.
Thanks for watching
@@klassikats I watched other videos where these gaskets are put in a different order (lower nr 105 first, upper nr 104 later)- Your video 45:26. I think that's right: www.szybkiplik.pl/RGhik7LNNk
is the solenoids at 24:50 known as the tcc solenoids? And are those the ones that cause the intermittent no reverse and no drive symptoms ? Do I have to replace them or could a simple clean fix the issue? Many thanks if you would take the time to share your opinion on this!
These solenoids are the shift solenoids, not the TCC solenoid. If you are getting a TCC error it is most likely the solenoid is dead and will need to be replaced. You can pull the solenoid and check the filter screen to see if there is any debris on it. If there is debris blocking the screen it is most likely a sign of a bigger issue that is more than just the solenoid. The TCC solenoid is located on the other side of the valve body across from the EPC solenoid.
@@klassikats Thank you!
Hi, quick question.. if inneed to replace the neatral safety switch.. do i need tontake the valve body off? Or you have any suggestion on how to replace them?
Because my traction control light is on along with the gear sign that has this sign ! In it.. and stuck in 4th gear.. i have replaced the rear passenger side traction control.. and replace the filter and refill.. still the same.. litghts are on amd still stuck on 4gear.. any idea?
@@tengzturiagaiii3185 There could be lots of things going on with your trans, Tengz. I would plug in the diagnostic computer to read off any codes, then mechanical pressure tests. Good luck.
Klassik Automotive Training School ok thanks
Hello, sir. I have a question.
I own a 08 BMW X3, and I have the following problem. On cold and hot engine it will take way to long to switch from 2nd to 3rd. It seems like it is stuck at 3000 rpms and transmission doesn't know where to shift. I replaced the oil twice in the last month and changed the filter. Do you have any idea what is happening and what should I do to fix this or at least to make it better. Thank you.
Daniel
There can be a lot of factors that can cause that issue. The shift points are controlled by a transmission computer that is looking at throttle position, engine load, and road speed. It then tells the solenoids in the transmission when to activate. So the first thing I would start with is scanning the engine and transmission for faults and fix any that are present, even if you don't think they are related. Also check if your car has a transmission options switch in the car, if so selecting "sport" mode will increase the rpm required for the shift to occur. Another factor can be if you have installed any kind of engine performance software. These programs often will raise the shift points in the transmission. There can also be mechanical issues inside the transmission that can affect the shift. If you have a high mileage car and there is significant wear inside the transmission it will impact the shift quality. A low line oil pressure due to worn seals and/or oil pump can require a higher engine speed to generate enough oil pressure to make the shift. To check this, you will take some oil pressure readings from the transmission while operating the vehicle.
Hope that helps to point you in a direction.
Thanks for watching
Kurt
@@klassikats Thank you for your detailed answer! I appreciate the effort, I have changed the oil twice, and filter. A friend of mine, he is mechanic, said that it could be shift solenoids. He said he can check if these actually are the solenoids, it just a matter of him finding time to check it. Nevertheless, thank you! One more question. You mentioned seals - are you talking about valve body seals? Would adding Lucas Transmission additive help?
I have 240,000 km on the car, it is roughly 149,000 miles.
I don't really want to put too much money into this car - it has high mileage and I don't think it will last another 240,000 kilometers anyway =)
@@berdasau The seals I was referencing were the clutch and piston seals inside the transmission its self. The solenoids can become dirty and the screens get debris in them. However, usually, this means that it will not shift at all. When it comes to a mechanic in a bottle, (The Lucas additive), they usually don't work when the transmission has a problem. Those kinds of additives are designed to add to a working transmission to keep it working. In My opinion, most if not all of those additives are a complete waste of money. I understand the high mileage, it's probably time to move the car onto the next owner.
Thanks and good luck.
@@klassikats thank you a lot for your response!
Awesome video! Where do u recommend I get all the gaskets and O-rings kit here in USA? Thank you
Simo, we have links to all the parts we used in this job in the description below the video on youtube. Thanks for watching and thanks for your comment
Kurt
@@klassikats oh sorry I didnt think to check it. Thank you! Do you have a video or write up on the common small ATF leak at the linkage on the side of the transmission and how to repair it? Thanks again!
That is something we should look into!
Thanks
@@klassikats one more thing, where could I find those alignement pins you used to install inner gasket and the body onto the transmission? Cheers!
Hi Simo, we made them, we just threaded some rod to match the holes.
Not hard with a lathe.
Hey! Sorry to bother you. Having trouble with my e46. It’s drives forward fine but when I put it in neutral it drive forward as if it was in low gear and reverse it drives forward as if it was in a higher gear. I can’t find the solution on any forum. Hope you can help me out.
That is going to be most likely a valve body issue. When we select a gear in the car a cable moves a physical valve in the transmission valve body. This directs fluid to specific pathways in the valve body to apply specific clutches. If fluid can leak between the passageways then it is possible to apply a gear or the wrong gear for what ever is selected in the car. The leak between passage ways could be from a failed gasket or rubber seal. There is also a possibility of mechanical issue where a clutch pack is stuck applied causing the transmission to continue to drive forward when in neutral. If the transmission has a lot of miles on it i would suggest completely removing and rebuilding it versus trying to repair it in the car.
@@klassikats thank you for the reply
@@klassikats with 135k would you recommend getting a refurbished valve body. I’ve seen them being some going for about $200. Is it worth it?
@@SANTOSlosGUERREROS That is up to you. I would start with seeing what transmission codes are present. Then depending on what codes are present I would then drop the transmission oil pan and filter and see what it looks like in the pan. If there is a large amount of debris in the oil pan I would most likely plan on rebuilding the transmission. If there is an average amount of debris in the oil pan I would remove the valve body and check for signs of cross leaking between passageways. I always want to confirm that I have found the problem before I throw a $200 part at it in the hopes that it will fix it.
@@klassikats thank you for replying. I don’t have any codes presents but I will check the valve body to see if there’s any problems with it or solenoids.
Hi, does anyone knows is there any (especially major) differences between these gearbox in: E39, E46, E38, E53? or are they the same and can be successfully swapped 1:1 independently of car's model and engine? I'm asking, because I need to replace malfunctioned box in my E39 530d and I was wondering if I can swaps it to box from E46 320d? I have read somewhere, that there's no differences at all - besides shaft connection (which can be simply use from old gearbox). But what about Hydrokinetic clutch? Does it the same type for all 5L40E, or depends the car's engine? Many thanks for any answer :-)
The main difference between these transmissions installed in different models is the valve bodies. Physically everything is the same. where the difference lies is in the accumulator springs. These determine the shift hardness levels based on engine torque. So yes you can swap transmissions but you may experience a difference in the shift quality.
@@klassikats and what about the torque converter? Is it also different or maybe it's same for all types?
@@maraz26 The stalls speeds may be a little different. as well as the mounting points may be different.
@@klassikats So I did it. I've mounted g-box from E46 320d 150KM 330Nm to my E39 530d. It works PERFECTLY. Gears changing is smooth and unfeeled almost like in DSG. As for differences, well everything was same, except drive shaft connection - which I have simply took it from old g-box. Besides, plug&play.
The same gear box is installed in my Land Rover L322, 3.0 diesel. on a cold engine, I feel jolts from the box when shifting to a lower gear, if I change the oil, will this problem disappear? Do I need to change the solenoids?
It is highly likely that an oil change will help this. usually harsh shifts when cold are due to higher oil pressures because of oil viscosity. Depending on mileage it can also indicate particulates in the oil from transmission wear.
I would say start with a fluid change and flush the oil cooler lines, then re-access the cold performance.
Kurt
@Klassik Automotive Training School Thanks a lot for advice