I just binge watched so many videos 🤪🤯. I spent a ton of time cleaning and prepping a Power Wheels to paint for my daughter. Thank ya for such detailed videos. 😁
I think the biggest challenge with guns is mixing the colors. Without a machine that can match specific codes I don’t know how I would get close to a specific color without a ton of trial and error. As for cans- many custom color cans say they are similar to a lacquer but you can’t get a specific answer on exactly what it is that you are spraying. Just food for thought. 👍🏻
The technology in cans and the caps have came a long long way and you can get a fantastic finish! If I'm painting by can I only use north west guitars nitrocellulose cans ( UK) and they work great. I've got a home setup for spraying by gun also but had to upgrade my compressor from the small 50L 2hp one to a second hand semi pro one. Just remember you have to spend so much more time with a gun because of cleaning. Because I'm a scrooge I buy a lot second hand and you can get a great deal Indeed and will save a few pennies. Watch brads tutorials and you will be spraying like a pro in no time.
I have used a airless sprayer to spray my nitrocellulose onto all my builds , it's a high volume low pressure rig with multiple nozzles. Works fantastic.
I'm doing my first guitar paint job with spray cans doing a 3 color burst. I'm using the ColorTone line from StewMac. A burst pattern is probably not the best to go with on a first attempt. I just bought a LVLP sprayer that I'm going to use for clear for now, since I already have the colors in the cans. So I don't have experience with a spray gun, but I figured spraying clear on the entire body there'd be fewer things to go wrong. I'll find out. Even though this is my first paint effort, I'm not happy with the spray cans. I've heated them up, kept the tips clean, shaken them well, and I get splatters and drips, shiny spots, dull spots, which is taking me a lot of extra work to get them out and respray. I've done so much correction work that I just ran out of black. And, as my black was running out it spit drops all over the body, and I'm kind of pissed off. I know that in part it's my lack of experience, but I've learned enough to think that the spray cans don't do a great job. Of course, to buy lacquer in a can is expensive and probably harder to get custom colors. I did use WATCO satin lacquer in a spray can to put on the neck and it went on great. I bought a quart of it in gloss to spray the finish on the body. I assume it is okay to use different brands of lacquer on the same guitar. The ColorTone and WATCO are both nitro. Anyway, I don't like spray cans and I've got to figure out how to remove the spatter (police call drops of blood, spatter, not splatter, so I'm used to saying spatter.) I don't know how to remove it without having to repaint the whole body and spending another $50-60. Enjoy your videos. Keep 'em coming. I usually find some little nugget of help in all of your videos.
I want to repaint my car this summer, the current paint looks terrible, and I'm going to try and do it with Montana Black spray cans. I think it's probably doable if I take my time and just pay very close attention to my lines
Excellent information provided very clearly in this video. PPE is in our post Covid-19 vocabulary, just remember “N-95” is dust & particulate only. A painters grade mask has a particulate filter (Serviceable on Most, ASK), but 2K or catalyzed paints in a can or gun, contain isocyanates and is NOT good inside or out. Like a medical patch, chemicals can be absorbed thru the skin. A good mask, $40 plus, bunny suit $5-10. I am 6’3” and 240 lbs. and cost me $5 for a 3M brand. Spray cans, perfect. Do yourself a favor at the home improvement store. Get a “RustOleum” brand spring loaded can sprayer. It clamps onto the can, designed with a nice handle for control plus a nice trigger for getting where you want. No more pink finger! Yea... Spray guns are everywhere but look at tip size in mm. The larger, the more volume and larger flake you can spray. Also, where the paint goes in from the cup, if there is a pinky sized plastic filter in the hole, Throw It Away! Paper strainers/filers are for this purpose and a $10 stand can hold you gun, filter and free up you hands & attention. It’s a Forrest Gump moment = “1 less thing to worry about”. Look at “Astro Pneumatic EuroPro HE. They are $100 +/- and buy the one with the tip you will use. 1.2mm-1.4mm for most Paint & clears. While 1.7mm-1.9mm is for thicker paints & many metallics. Large flakes are special, so ask for tip advice from who you are buying from or make sure you know the size and call a paint supply shop. Lots of info out there but just do your research before opening your wallet. Enjoyed the video and each has it’s place. A good compressor w/oil bath crankcase will last decades, it you crack the bottom drain and change the oil needed or not. Use the right oil but put a big tag tied to the frame easy to see, write down date. Depending on your skill set, you can get an hour meter running off 120 Vac (1 side of the 240 Vac) bolt a bracket and buy online for $10. Just make sure it’s A/C voltage. Cheap insurance and written on card with the oil change date. Remember, a residential lawnmower is 150 hrs. use, while a commercial is 5,000 hrs. Big difference and many uses. Ever blow up a kids pool?
*HOPEFULLY you'll see this or somebody who know there stuff will see this... Any suggestions for buying a spray gun to paint my Tahoe... I don't want to spend a lot of money on it so I'd like to pay no more than $100. Any cheap ones that are actually any good??*
I notice you missed the most the costly part of using a paint gun. The BINDER!!!! Geeze I just spent a bunch of money on pigments, a paint gun, and an air compressor without realizing the binder that acts as a solvent for the pigments is $200+!!! Great job explaining what you actually need in a video that's titled, "What you Actually Need".
You realize there are different kinds of paint right? You certainly don’t need to spend $200 on binder to use a paint gun. That would have been a relatively niche thing for me to cover in this video since very few people watching this type of tutorial would be getting into that type of paint work.
I’d like to spray my first guitar, probably with cans to test the waters, but am worried about the toxicity of nitro. Everybody says your space should be well ventilated, but isn’t ventilation a source of dust in your spray job? Ideally I’d do it outside but would probably get a horrible finish due to dust. I have a proper mask and all that, but no explosion proof extraction fan. Where would you suggest a backyard spray job can be done? How long does overspray stay in the air if doing it inside without extraction? Wouldn’t you have nitro everywhere after it landed on the ground? Thanks for the videos, I’ve learnt a lot from this channel!
I got a painting tent from Amazon. I just have to make sure it's not too windy, because it will shift the tent from side to side. I have weights holding it down. I place it on a concrete patio and I will sweep and wet the floor to keep the dust down. However, dust and bugs can creep up. I will lightly scuff sand between coats if I see any dust or bugs.
@@nicolasmasset When I sealed the wood. I had to leave it in the tent, because the smell was too strong. That's when I got some small lint pieces, which I scuff sanded off with a 3M scotch brite pad. For the clear I would bring it inside. The Satin Lacquer wasn't too smelly.
Rattle cans Nitro - Oxford Plus small can of clear for airbrush. Then Krylon and rust-oleum My guns are not cheap nor the water and oil filter system for my compressor. Also have hvlp turbine system. Guns and filters are retired and packed away. I love the Oxford system.
Anytime ive ever had to work with an aircompressor all kinds all years all sizes and brands using nailguns sanders and all i hate them. They act sporadically very easy and the old good ones are breaking down and have little rust flakes in them so I can't imagine painting i would rip my hair out.
Brad, I have gotten really excellent results using the Harbor Frieght purple spray guns in the past. It's all in the maintinance, cleaning, and of course the type of materials you are using. I eslecially like the small detail gun. That being said, there are good and bad in every manufacturers. I've had Devilbiss guns completely $h!t the bed on expensive custom cabinetry. Just because it's new, does not mean it's good. Everything in the world is made by the lowest bidder...
@@BradAngove, I mainly use the small detail gun for doing bursts, with only about 15lbs of air to get really smooth results. Building up the burst slowly to get very deep color spread and minimal hard lines.
Too bad you didn't make this a few weeks ago, before I bought a really cheap compressor. I haven't plugged it in yet, here's hoping I get lucky. Thanks anyway, man, great video on a big subject.
I watched my ex-brother in-law do a really professional looking paint job on the trunk of a Chevy Vega with spray cans, once. He was a rat, but he was good with a can of paint.
There are some really nice (relatively expensive) spray cans out there that would allow that, but the risk of getting stripes is still high. If your compressor is powerful/big enough you shouldn’t have a problem.
Man I love this video. I have been working on my airbrushing skills for a very LONG time. I've had an incredible amount of ppl wanting me to paint their bikes and cars. The problem is, I have NO experience in painting cars and bikes. My father is a wrench turner from the 70's. He's scared me off from taking the jobs in fear of messing it all up for LACK of experience. At this point, I'm losing out on some funds. Brad, any suggestions or advice? UA-cam, same question, any suggestions or advice?
Absolutely. Two things: 1. Find a body shop that will do clear coat work for you and figure out their cost. That’s the part that really requires “experience”, and if you build that cost into your quotes you can do the rest and have them do that piece. 2. Practice the stuff you haven’t done. Find something to do a full paint job on, do it, and add it to your portfolio. Then you will know you can do it when someone wants theirs done.
I've noticed in other videos that you're only using a half mask respirator, as a fellow bearded wonder, you're aware that those aren't safe to use while spraying nitro with a beard right? CSA won't even allow a fit test to be done with facial hair.
I have 2 old guitars to restore for a long time. I don't have much idea and watching tutorials like yours, I learn. First I wanted to buy myself a compressor and a paint gun. But it's a lot of investment for a hobby and I don't have the right space for so much maqunaria. Compressor noise,... That's why I think I'd better spray paint. One of the guitars I want to give it a background color. Then paint it with swirling technique. The other I want to give you a black but transparent paint that highlights the vein of the wood... The finish of the two guitars I want it to be mirror type... I'd like you to advise me. and I hope you understand what I've written. I use a translator. My school English is "rusty" Hahahahahahaha. Greetings and thank you for your report
I'm going to do mine with material from crazy cans. I talked to Andrew down there and he fixes me right up with exactly what I want and what I need and he's got some good advice too. Nowhere near as good as your advice but I better stop that because you try to put a hat on and it won't fit LOL I'm following your advice for my entry of the great guitar build off I'm a nervous wreck. I have never done flamed Maple before and I wanted dark at the end and lighten it up one study lightning up to where by the time you get to the middle of the pickups you could just about see through it red and I'm putting metal flake on top of that and then about five coats of clear from crazy cans but every time I look at it and I get my stuff out and I could do just about any color but I just get nervous as hell and I stop
@@BradAngove thanks a lot buddy. I know I'm just going to jump into it and quit letting my nerves get to me with this competition means a lot to me and I want my guitar to turn out nice Lord knows I've got a lot of money for it into all the accessories I bought for it LOL take care buddy and good luck to you too and thanks for answering my questions for me means a lot man
Nice video I use mostly 1/2 MDf from homedepot which is not best quality but thats all I can get, ? The link u have for vinyl sealer in quart is not available what else do u recommend or where else to find thanks
Yes, I have a couple. A really old one about cleaning your paint gun and a newer one about cleaning clear coat out of your gun. The newer one should tell you what you need.
Hey guys... I'm working on a 1970s Honda motorcycle, and I'm hoping to paint the exhaust pipes and the gas tank a nice gloss black. The former would need to be hi temp. paint. I already have a good compressor with a built in regulator for using my impact gun etc, so is it worth buying a spray gun? I'm curious as to which might take more skill to get a good finish.
Yes, in a way. The pressure drops over the length of the hose, so if you’re going by feel it makes less difference, but if you’re using specific settings you want the adjustment right at the gun.
@@BradAngove no, the Brad Jams! you know, the ones when you finish a build and do a tones demo and say you play lousy and then whip out some killer riffs! I just realized we haven't seen a new one for a while...we're counting on you, bud!
Hey Brad. Do you have any experience with spraying out rattle can paints (regular Krylon style paints, not nitrocellulose) into a container, then doing the actual paint work with an HVLP rig? Wondering if it might need thinning after being shot out of the can once already, and if I would need to use paint thinner or lacquer thinner.. I know it seems obvious by their names, but I've only shot nitro paints with my HVLP and would use lacquer thinner for the thinning if necessary. Any info would be much appreciated!!!
I’ve done it with airbrushes. Never hvlp because I’m those cases I would just use the spray cans. I generally haven’t found that any significant thinning is required.
Is there any advice at all that you can give me I know I just got a put one coat all the way in the way I wanted to end and then keep putting coats on up to where I want it to meld right?
Hi Brad - thanks for the video. Can you tell us about the compressor you're using with those spray guns? I'm looking at getting set up and am curious to know how much I'd need to invest. I can see that the Warwick guns are recommending somewhere in the region of 10CFM / 30PSI, but I'm curious as to what sort of tank capacity or power rating you are using or would recommend. Thanks again!
Hi Andy; unfortunately a video about what I’m using wouldn’t be very helpful. I use a massive compressor that handles air supply for the entire shop, including several large machines. I have done one video on compressor sizes/requirements though that you may find helpful.
Hey Andy! I think I can help you out a bit here as well. The size of the compressor simply comes down to the size of the job that you want to spray. If you are spraying guitars or small-medium sized car parts, you can get away with a compressor around the 20-30 gallon size. You can pick up a decent oil-type compressor (stay away from “maintenance-free”) in that size from $300-400. If you are spraying anything large, like a vehicle, you’re going to want a minimum 60 gallon compressor to satisfy the air consumption. A big factor, with whatever compressor you go with, is keeping your air clean and dry. You’ll want to get a wall-mounted air line kit, which will allow you to install a water-separator and filter to dry and clean the air before it even enters your hose.
@@gramursowanfaborden5820 without fully knowing...I gather it's very toxic! I'm a city slicker here in Hollywood. Love to watch the channel to understand!
@ I'm in LA as well and you can buy nitrocellulose lacquer. Don't believe me, walk into your local Rockler Woodworking and Hardware. There is one in Pasadena and another in Torrance. That is my source for Mohawk products. P.S. If you ever need a nitro or polyurethane refinish, I work out of my garage in Inglewood.
Рік тому+1
@@andysaucedo3226 ok that's good to know I will check them out! Thanks for the tip!
Lol, yes, use the paint gun to look cool! Hey, if course the paint guns are better but then there is also that prep and cleanup factor. The paint cans are ready to go and easy to throw away if you used it all.
If you know what solvent to use with that paint, pour a little solvent in a container (make sure it’s not going to melt the container!), pull the spray head off the can and drop it in there to soak.
So how many spray guns Should I get? I was thinking 3. One for primer, one for the color, and one for the clear coat. But do they make specific gun for each step or does it matter?
Some brands claim to have a clear coat gun, base coat gun, and primer gun. I agree with getting 3, but generally I don’t think you need a particular gun for each. It’s more about having nozzle sizes that work for you.
@@BradAngove Thank you. Thats kinda what I was thinking. Um...I can make anything work for me. Like what tips should I use. Like Id just use the ones that came with the guns. Even if they arent what I need, Ill use them. I would like to get the right sizes for base coat primer and clear coat.
I ordered gold medal flake from crazy cans I spoke to Andrew you can tell him what size of metal flake you want and I had wonderful results with it and they even have clear coat with hardener you pull a pin on the bottom of the can and turn it 360° it has literally has a cylinder in there that has the hardener and when you do that you puncture that cylinder and the hardener comes out and mixes in the can it's good for 24 hours and when I buffed it was a very professional shine I hope that helps
It mostly just varies in terms of availability and flexibility. But, you do need to be careful spraying metallics with cans because the actual metallic particles tend to concentrate a bit at the center of the pattern.
@@BradAngove I didn't notice it doing that but I only used them once I told him I wanted small flakes. Thanks a lot for the advice Brad, I appreciate it a lot!
Aye homie got a question about clear coats, I’m using Montana gold paints & their crackle finish on a kit guitar, & I was originally planning on just using the spraymax 2k to clear coat (I’ve never used it before only used spray can Polly finishes before), I wanna get a really smooth deep glass like finish but I just saw a video of a crackle paint job that had a really nice smooth finish using the 2k cans, but they had to use 9 cans to get it that smooth (well they said they used 3 cans of Montanas varnish at first & then switched to the 2k & still had to use another 6 cans), like I figured I’d need at least a couple cans of the 2k for a crackle finish, but 6~9 cans is a lot, especially since that shits expensive, & I recently found out that my dad has a Graco HVLP 3800 fine finish sprayer, so my question is which option do you think would be better/cheaper to do, using a bunch of the spray max 2k cans, or just borrowing my dads hvlp sprayer & getting a 2k clear coat for that instead?
@@BradAngove oh true, I didn’t realize they’d pretty much equal out price wise, but yee I’ve never used a spray gun before either so I knew I’d have to watch alota videos to learn how to use it & all that first (plus I also assumed you already had some video on it already lol), so I guess I’ll probably just go with the spray cans then, & just curious about roughly how much 2k for the spray gun would I actually need to do one guitar? Ngl I thought I’d only need to get a quart or two instead of a gallon, so that’s why I thought it might’ve been a lil bit cheaper, ya know, or do they only sell it in gallons? & I appreciate your input as always homie
It’s tough to find in quarts in my experience. If you’re going to do a bunch it makes sense to get a quart or a gallon and use a gun. A gallon should be enough to get a couple coats on a car. I would say a quart is tons for a guitar.
@@BradAngove oh true, like I said I’ve only ever done a Polly finish before so I appreciate all the info homie, but yee I ended up calling a bunch of automotive paint shops to see if any wound do the clear coat for me & I found one that’ll do it for $175 with translucent pearls too, so I’m pretty sure I’m just going to do that, since that’s about the same or a lil cheaper than what I’d have to pay for the 2k cans tbh, Also one last question if you don’t mind homie, I just did my first crackle paint job last night & it turned out pretty good for a first attempt, but there’s a few spots on the face that didn’t crackle or are super small, so can I tape off the good sections & then just sand & respray the bad ones? Or do I have to just sand & respray the whole face again?
If you have the equipment for spray gun use which is cheaper? I want to do it with cans but it's going to be $30 for each can of base coat I don't even know how many I will need I feel like I will end up spending more that 200 on base coat spray cans and was wondering if I should do it with a spray gun if the paint would cost less
You would probably only need a quart or a couple spray cans for that. So it just depends on the price difference between those two wherever you’re buying it.
It depends on what you want. Oil looks nice, but doesn’t offer any protection. That’s not necessarily a problem, but it’s also not particularly relevant to this video hah.
I just binge watched so many videos 🤪🤯. I spent a ton of time cleaning and prepping a Power Wheels to paint for my daughter. Thank ya for such detailed videos. 😁
Glad I could help
Exactly what I wanted to be shared. I appreciate you
Thank you
Buy a 8 gallon for CFM at 90 psi air compressor and a mini gun if you’re going to be painting a guitar every once in a while it will work just fine.
Add a basic water and oil filter plus an airbrush and its better than fine.
I think the biggest challenge with guns is mixing the colors. Without a machine that can match specific codes I don’t know how I would get close to a specific color without a ton of trial and error. As for cans- many custom color cans say they are similar to a lacquer but you can’t get a specific answer on exactly what it is that you are spraying. Just food for thought. 👍🏻
That makes sense, but most places where you can get spray cans can also custom mix paint that you can spray through a gun.
I always find new cool music to add to my iTunes!
The technology in cans and the caps have came a long long way and you can get a fantastic finish! If I'm painting by can I only use north west guitars nitrocellulose cans ( UK) and they work great. I've got a home setup for spraying by gun also but had to upgrade my compressor from the small 50L 2hp one to a second hand semi pro one. Just remember you have to spend so much more time with a gun because of cleaning. Because I'm a scrooge I buy a lot second hand and you can get a great deal Indeed and will save a few pennies. Watch brads tutorials and you will be spraying like a pro in no time.
Thanks for the heads up on things and you're right about Brad's tutorials
And thanks a lot for your advice I sure appreciate it!
Preval sprayers allow you to mix your own, even flash coats. Available ay Home Depot for cheap. I've been using them for over 40 years
I have used a airless sprayer to spray my nitrocellulose onto all my builds , it's a high volume low pressure rig with multiple nozzles. Works fantastic.
Excellent; I’m glad to hear that.
I'm doing my first guitar paint job with spray cans doing a 3 color burst. I'm using the ColorTone line from StewMac. A burst pattern is probably not the best to go with on a first attempt. I just bought a LVLP sprayer that I'm going to use for clear for now, since I already have the colors in the cans. So I don't have experience with a spray gun, but I figured spraying clear on the entire body there'd be fewer things to go wrong. I'll find out. Even though this is my first paint effort, I'm not happy with the spray cans. I've heated them up, kept the tips clean, shaken them well, and I get splatters and drips, shiny spots, dull spots, which is taking me a lot of extra work to get them out and respray. I've done so much correction work that I just ran out of black. And, as my black was running out it spit drops all over the body, and I'm kind of pissed off. I know that in part it's my lack of experience, but I've learned enough to think that the spray cans don't do a great job. Of course, to buy lacquer in a can is expensive and probably harder to get custom colors. I did use WATCO satin lacquer in a spray can to put on the neck and it went on great. I bought a quart of it in gloss to spray the finish on the body. I assume it is okay to use different brands of lacquer on the same guitar. The ColorTone and WATCO are both nitro. Anyway, I don't like spray cans and I've got to figure out how to remove the spatter (police call drops of blood, spatter, not splatter, so I'm used to saying spatter.) I don't know how to remove it without having to repaint the whole body and spending another $50-60. Enjoy your videos. Keep 'em coming. I usually find some little nugget of help in all of your videos.
Thank you bud.,always good info.
Cheers
Ordered some cans from Oxford today. Looking forward to giving them a try.
Excellent. I hope you enjoy.
Good video man!
My electric paint gun for fences is awesome for spraying glitter mixed with poly varnish, easy and no viscosity issues.
Makes sense. Probably a huge nozzle right?
@@BradAngove comes with Ø1.5, Ø1.8, Ø2.2mm. it's a beast but i wouldn't use it for anything else :-)
Being that I don't do a ton of finishing work I have found spray cans suit my needs fine. I will be looking into these Oxford finishes for sure.
Glad to hear it. The technology for spray cans seems to have improved in the last few years for sure.
I have seen Oxford available in the states online on several sites recently.
Yes, they’ve begun shipping there.
I want to repaint my car this summer, the current paint looks terrible, and I'm going to try and do it with Montana Black spray cans. I think it's probably doable if I take my time and just pay very close attention to my lines
I wish you the best of luck.
Excellent information provided very clearly in this video. PPE is in our post Covid-19 vocabulary, just remember “N-95” is dust & particulate only. A painters grade mask has a particulate filter (Serviceable on Most, ASK), but 2K or catalyzed paints in a can or gun, contain isocyanates and is NOT good inside or out. Like a medical patch, chemicals can be absorbed thru the skin. A good mask, $40 plus, bunny suit $5-10. I am 6’3” and 240 lbs. and cost me $5 for a 3M brand.
Spray cans, perfect. Do yourself a favor at the home improvement store. Get a “RustOleum” brand spring loaded can sprayer. It clamps onto the can, designed with a nice handle for control plus a nice trigger for getting where you want. No more pink finger! Yea...
Spray guns are everywhere but look at tip size in mm. The larger, the more volume and larger flake you can spray. Also, where the paint goes in from the cup, if there is a pinky sized plastic filter in the hole, Throw It Away! Paper strainers/filers are for this purpose and a $10 stand can hold you gun, filter and free up you hands & attention. It’s a Forrest Gump moment = “1 less thing to worry about”. Look at “Astro Pneumatic EuroPro HE. They are $100 +/- and buy the one with the tip you will use. 1.2mm-1.4mm for most Paint & clears. While 1.7mm-1.9mm is for thicker paints & many metallics. Large flakes are special, so ask for tip advice from who you are buying from or make sure you know the size and call a paint supply shop. Lots of info out there but just do your research before opening your wallet. Enjoyed the video and each has it’s place. A good compressor w/oil bath crankcase will last decades, it you crack the bottom drain and change the oil needed or not. Use the right oil but put a big tag tied to the frame easy to see, write down date. Depending on your skill set, you can get an hour meter running off 120 Vac (1 side of the 240 Vac) bolt a bracket and buy online for $10. Just make sure it’s A/C voltage. Cheap insurance and written on card with the oil change date. Remember, a residential lawnmower is 150 hrs. use, while a commercial is 5,000 hrs. Big difference and many uses. Ever blow up a kids pool?
Great video as always !! :)
Thank you Terry
*HOPEFULLY you'll see this or somebody who know there stuff will see this... Any suggestions for buying a spray gun to paint my Tahoe... I don't want to spend a lot of money on it so I'd like to pay no more than $100. Any cheap ones that are actually any good??*
Here’s the video you’re looking for: ua-cam.com/video/KX106i5dlz0/v-deo.html
Where I live, and the Wonder Bread Guitar guys live, we are very pro gun.
Hahaha up here our rights to own professional paint equipment aren’t as hot a topic.
I notice you missed the most the costly part of using a paint gun. The BINDER!!!! Geeze I just spent a bunch of money on pigments, a paint gun, and an air compressor without realizing the binder that acts as a solvent for the pigments is $200+!!! Great job explaining what you actually need in a video that's titled, "What you Actually Need".
You realize there are different kinds of paint right? You certainly don’t need to spend $200 on binder to use a paint gun. That would have been a relatively niche thing for me to cover in this video since very few people watching this type of tutorial would be getting into that type of paint work.
You're remedial....
@@BradAngove 💀💀
What am I remediating?
I’d like to spray my first guitar, probably with cans to test the waters, but am worried about the toxicity of nitro. Everybody says your space should be well ventilated, but isn’t ventilation a source of dust in your spray job? Ideally I’d do it outside but would probably get a horrible finish due to dust. I have a proper mask and all that, but no explosion proof extraction fan. Where would you suggest a backyard spray job can be done? How long does overspray stay in the air if doing it inside without extraction? Wouldn’t you have nitro everywhere after it landed on the ground? Thanks for the videos, I’ve learnt a lot from this channel!
I got a painting tent from Amazon. I just have to make sure it's not too windy, because it will shift the tent from side to side. I have weights holding it down. I place it on a concrete patio and I will sweep and wet the floor to keep the dust down. However, dust and bugs can creep up. I will lightly scuff sand between coats if I see any dust or bugs.
@@reasonbass Thanks. Do you do this without extraction in the tent?
@@nicolasmasset When I sealed the wood. I had to leave it in the tent, because the smell was too strong. That's when I got some small lint pieces, which I scuff sanded off with a 3M scotch brite pad. For the clear I would bring it inside. The Satin Lacquer wasn't too smelly.
Rattle cans
Nitro - Oxford
Plus small can of clear for airbrush.
Then Krylon and rust-oleum
My guns are not cheap nor the water and oil filter system for my compressor. Also have hvlp turbine system. Guns and filters are retired and packed away.
I love the Oxford system.
Anytime ive ever had to work with an aircompressor all kinds all years all sizes and brands using nailguns sanders and all i hate them. They act sporadically very easy and the old good ones are breaking down and have little rust flakes in them so I can't imagine painting i would rip my hair out.
Hey Brad, awesome video. Quick question, what tip size do you use/recomend for spraying the Mohawk instrument /finisher choice lacquer?
Best,
Andy
I like a 1.2 for that sort of thing.
@@BradAngove Thanks man, you're the best!
Brad, I have gotten really excellent results using the Harbor Frieght purple spray guns in the past. It's all in the maintinance, cleaning, and of course the type of materials you are using. I eslecially like the small detail gun. That being said, there are good and bad in every manufacturers. I've had Devilbiss guns completely $h!t the bed on expensive custom cabinetry. Just because it's new, does not mean it's good. Everything in the world is made by the lowest bidder...
Good points George; thank you.
@@BradAngove, I mainly use the small detail gun for doing bursts, with only about 15lbs of air to get really smooth results. Building up the burst slowly to get very deep color spread and minimal hard lines.
Too bad you didn't make this a few weeks ago, before I bought a really cheap compressor. I haven't plugged it in yet, here's hoping I get lucky. Thanks anyway, man, great video on a big subject.
I watched my ex-brother in-law do a really professional looking paint job on the trunk of a Chevy Vega with spray cans, once. He was a rat, but he was good with a can of paint.
There are some really nice (relatively expensive) spray cans out there that would allow that, but the risk of getting stripes is still high.
If your compressor is powerful/big enough you shouldn’t have a problem.
Man I love this video.
I have been working on my airbrushing skills for a very LONG time. I've had an incredible amount of ppl wanting me to paint their bikes and cars. The problem is, I have NO experience in painting cars and bikes. My father is a wrench turner from the 70's. He's scared me off from taking the jobs in fear of messing it all up for LACK of experience.
At this point, I'm losing out on some funds.
Brad, any suggestions or advice?
UA-cam, same question, any suggestions or advice?
Absolutely. Two things: 1. Find a body shop that will do clear coat work for you and figure out their cost. That’s the part that really requires “experience”, and if you build that cost into your quotes you can do the rest and have them do that piece.
2. Practice the stuff you haven’t done. Find something to do a full paint job on, do it, and add it to your portfolio. Then you will know you can do it when someone wants theirs done.
@@BradAngove As always, Man. Thank you very much. You've helped me come a long way.
One day, I'll have to buy you a beer!!
🍺🍻🍺
🧛🏻♂️
I've noticed in other videos that you're only using a half mask respirator, as a fellow bearded wonder, you're aware that those aren't safe to use while spraying nitro with a beard right? CSA won't even allow a fit test to be done with facial hair.
Yes, the reason for that is fairly obvious. It’s helpful that I have the pull spray booth available.
I have 2 old guitars to restore for a long time. I don't have much idea and watching tutorials like yours, I learn. First I wanted to buy myself a compressor and a paint gun. But it's a lot of investment for a hobby and I don't have the right space for so much maqunaria. Compressor noise,... That's why I think I'd better spray paint. One of the guitars I want to give it a background color. Then paint it with swirling technique. The other I want to give you a black but transparent paint that highlights the vein of the wood... The finish of the two guitars I want it to be mirror type... I'd like you to advise me. and I hope you understand what I've written. I use a translator. My school English is "rusty" Hahahahahahaha. Greetings and thank you for your report
Hi there. Those sounds like cool projects. Paint cans should work. I don’t know how to do the swirling technique properly though.
I used spray can to paint a semi trailer and it came out right.
I'm going to do mine with material from crazy cans. I talked to Andrew down there and he fixes me right up with exactly what I want and what I need and he's got some good advice too. Nowhere near as good as your advice but I better stop that because you try to put a hat on and it won't fit LOL I'm following your advice for my entry of the great guitar build off I'm a nervous wreck. I have never done flamed Maple before and I wanted dark at the end and lighten it up one study lightning up to where by the time you get to the middle of the pickups you could just about see through it red and I'm putting metal flake on top of that and then about five coats of clear from crazy cans but every time I look at it and I get my stuff out and I could do just about any color but I just get nervous as hell and I stop
Do a test spray on something else to make sure the fade is working the way you want it to. Other than that; I’m sure you do fine. Have fun!
@@BradAngove thanks a lot buddy. I know I'm just going to jump into it and quit letting my nerves get to me with this competition means a lot to me and I want my guitar to turn out nice Lord knows I've got a lot of money for it into all the accessories I bought for it LOL take care buddy and good luck to you too and thanks for answering my questions for me means a lot man
Nice video I use mostly 1/2 MDf from homedepot which is not best quality but thats all I can get, ? The link u have for vinyl sealer in quart is not available what else do u recommend or where else to find thanks
Behlen has been subsumed back into Mohawk, so if you check the amazon link there should be some in there. Either way, it’s Mohawk EZ vinyl sealer.
Would a spray can be adequate for painting motorcycle fairings?
It could if you got something like the spraymax cans.
Do you have any videos up on cleaning the guns?
Yes, I have a couple. A really old one about cleaning your paint gun and a newer one about cleaning clear coat out of your gun. The newer one should tell you what you need.
Hey guys... I'm working on a 1970s Honda motorcycle, and I'm hoping to paint the exhaust pipes and the gas tank a nice gloss black. The former would need to be hi temp. paint. I already have a good compressor with a built in regulator for using my impact gun etc, so is it worth buying a spray gun? I'm curious as to which might take more skill to get a good finish.
The spray gun takes a bit more practice than a can, but it is more versatile and generally delivers a better finish.
Ok, thanks!
Does it matter if you have the regulator at the paint gun or at the compressor? Say with 50 ft of regular flexible rubber airline
Yes, in a way. The pressure drops over the length of the hose, so if you’re going by feel it makes less difference, but if you’re using specific settings you want the adjustment right at the gun.
Can of paint and a brush worked for me
... I had a sandwich yesterday...
Which is painting long time better it's meaning color shedding problam
All of your guns are HVLP. Do you have a recommendation for an LVLP gun? I don’t really want to get a full shop size compressor
I don’t really use LVLP guns, so I’m not experienced enough with them to give a recommendation.
Yep
I'm still scared of painting stuff
Burning the surface and applying oil seems easier
That actually makes a lot of sense haha
2K scares me because of the Isocyanates. Nasty stuff.
I just realized I'm starting to miss the guitar jams...sure, I'm learning an incredible amount about finishing, but it's not the same, somehow.
The pre-Covid jam sessions?
@@BradAngove no, the Brad Jams! you know, the ones when you finish a build and do a tones demo and say you play lousy and then whip out some killer riffs! I just realized we haven't seen a new one for a while...we're counting on you, bud!
Haha well I basically only pick up a guitar to play it when I finish a build. So I guess I need to finish some builds.
If it's a cheap car and it's got like 3 different colours on it a rattle can paint job can be an improvement.
I can’t argue with that.
Hey Brad. Do you have any experience with spraying out rattle can paints (regular Krylon style paints, not nitrocellulose) into a container, then doing the actual paint work with an HVLP rig? Wondering if it might need thinning after being shot out of the can once already, and if I would need to use paint thinner or lacquer thinner.. I know it seems obvious by their names, but I've only shot nitro paints with my HVLP and would use lacquer thinner for the thinning if necessary. Any info would be much appreciated!!!
I’ve done it with airbrushes. Never hvlp because I’m those cases I would just use the spray cans. I generally haven’t found that any significant thinning is required.
Is there any advice at all that you can give me I know I just got a put one coat all the way in the way I wanted to end and then keep putting coats on up to where I want it to meld right?
Hi Brad - thanks for the video. Can you tell us about the compressor you're using with those spray guns? I'm looking at getting set up and am curious to know how much I'd need to invest. I can see that the Warwick guns are recommending somewhere in the region of 10CFM / 30PSI, but I'm curious as to what sort of tank capacity or power rating you are using or would recommend. Thanks again!
Hi Andy; unfortunately a video about what I’m using wouldn’t be very helpful. I use a massive compressor that handles air supply for the entire shop, including several large machines. I have done one video on compressor sizes/requirements though that you may find helpful.
@@BradAngove Thanks, I've checked it out and it's really helpful! If anyone else wants some advice, it's at ua-cam.com/video/WpK6K2KMoW0/v-deo.html :)
Hey Andy! I think I can help you out a bit here as well. The size of the compressor simply comes down to the size of the job that you want to spray. If you are spraying guitars or small-medium sized car parts, you can get away with a compressor around the 20-30 gallon size. You can pick up a decent oil-type compressor (stay away from “maintenance-free”) in that size from $300-400. If you are spraying anything large, like a vehicle, you’re going to want a minimum 60 gallon compressor to satisfy the air consumption.
A big factor, with whatever compressor you go with, is keeping your air clean and dry. You’ll want to get a wall-mounted air line kit, which will allow you to install a water-separator and filter to dry and clean the air before it even enters your hose.
Hello Brad , if I want to do a three tone sunburst , does your mini Warwick 878s ok for this ?
Yes, that’s probably what I would use.
@@BradAngove Thank you Brad ! I appreciate your time !
I would like to buy the Oxford Nitrocellulose but here in California Nitro has been banned for years!
nitrocellulose =/= nitroglycerin.
@@gramursowanfaborden5820 without fully knowing...I gather it's very toxic! I'm a city slicker here in Hollywood. Love to watch the channel to understand!
@ it's not nearly as bad as polyurethane lacquer but it's not great either, though, nor is inhaling anything other than pure air, really.
@
I'm in LA as well and you can buy nitrocellulose lacquer. Don't believe me, walk into your local Rockler Woodworking and Hardware. There is one in Pasadena and another in Torrance. That is my source for Mohawk products.
P.S. If you ever need a nitro or polyurethane refinish, I work out of my garage in Inglewood.
@@andysaucedo3226 ok that's good to know I will check them out! Thanks for the tip!
Lol, yes, use the paint gun to look cool! Hey, if course the paint guns are better but then there is also that prep and cleanup factor. The paint cans are ready to go and easy to throw away if you used it all.
True. They’re definitely a quicker option if you’re short on time.
Brad or anybody, has anyone figured out a way to clear the nozzle on the Rustoleum any angle spray cans?
If you know what solvent to use with that paint, pour a little solvent in a container (make sure it’s not going to melt the container!), pull the spray head off the can and drop it in there to soak.
Normal paint thinner should be adequate.
So how many spray guns Should I get? I was thinking 3. One for primer, one for the color, and one for the clear coat. But do they make specific gun for each step or does it matter?
Some brands claim to have a clear coat gun, base coat gun, and primer gun. I agree with getting 3, but generally I don’t think you need a particular gun for each. It’s more about having nozzle sizes that work for you.
@@BradAngove Thank you. Thats kinda what I was thinking. Um...I can make anything work for me. Like what tips should I use. Like Id just use the ones that came with the guns. Even if they arent what I need, Ill use them. I would like to get the right sizes for base coat primer and clear coat.
I like 1.4 or 1.3 for color and clear. 1.5 for sealer.
@@BradAngove Man you have been such a big help to me. Thank you very much
Glad I could make myself useful.
What about metallic / glitter finishes? How does this vary depending on application method?
I ordered gold medal flake from crazy cans I spoke to Andrew you can tell him what size of metal flake you want and I had wonderful results with it and they even have clear coat with hardener you pull a pin on the bottom of the can and turn it 360° it has literally has a cylinder in there that has the hardener and when you do that you puncture that cylinder and the hardener comes out and mixes in the can it's good for 24 hours and when I buffed it was a very professional shine I hope that helps
It mostly just varies in terms of availability and flexibility. But, you do need to be careful spraying metallics with cans because the actual metallic particles tend to concentrate a bit at the center of the pattern.
@@BradAngove I didn't notice it doing that but I only used them once I told him I wanted small flakes. Thanks a lot for the advice Brad, I appreciate it a lot!
Aye homie got a question about clear coats, I’m using Montana gold paints & their crackle finish on a kit guitar, & I was originally planning on just using the spraymax 2k to clear coat (I’ve never used it before only used spray can Polly finishes before), I wanna get a really smooth deep glass like finish but I just saw a video of a crackle paint job that had a really nice smooth finish using the 2k cans, but they had to use 9 cans to get it that smooth (well they said they used 3 cans of Montanas varnish at first & then switched to the 2k & still had to use another 6 cans),
like I figured I’d need at least a couple cans of the 2k for a crackle finish, but 6~9 cans is a lot, especially since that shits expensive,
& I recently found out that my dad has a Graco HVLP 3800 fine finish sprayer,
so my question is which option do you think would be better/cheaper to do, using a bunch of the spray max 2k cans, or just borrowing my dads hvlp sprayer & getting a 2k clear coat for that instead?
Decent 2K clear coat usually costs at least $200 per gallon and you need to know how to mix it and set up the gun.
@@BradAngove oh true, I didn’t realize they’d pretty much equal out price wise, but yee I’ve never used a spray gun before either so I knew I’d have to watch alota videos to learn how to use it & all that first (plus I also assumed you already had some video on it already lol), so I guess I’ll probably just go with the spray cans then,
& just curious about roughly how much 2k for the spray gun would I actually need to do one guitar? Ngl I thought I’d only need to get a quart or two instead of a gallon, so that’s why I thought it might’ve been a lil bit cheaper, ya know, or do they only sell it in gallons? & I appreciate your input as always homie
It’s tough to find in quarts in my experience. If you’re going to do a bunch it makes sense to get a quart or a gallon and use a gun. A gallon should be enough to get a couple coats on a car. I would say a quart is tons for a guitar.
@@BradAngove oh true, like I said I’ve only ever done a Polly finish before so I appreciate all the info homie, but yee I ended up calling a bunch of automotive paint shops to see if any wound do the clear coat for me & I found one that’ll do it for $175 with translucent pearls too, so I’m pretty sure I’m just going to do that, since that’s about the same or a lil cheaper than what I’d have to pay for the 2k cans tbh,
Also one last question if you don’t mind homie, I just did my first crackle paint job last night & it turned out pretty good for a first attempt, but there’s a few spots on the face that didn’t crackle or are super small, so can I tape off the good sections & then just sand & respray the bad ones? Or do I have to just sand & respray the whole face again?
I’d say you’re probably going to have to re-do the face. I’ve never seen someone try to repair crackle before.
If you have the equipment for spray gun use which is cheaper? I want to do it with cans but it's going to be $30 for each can of base coat I don't even know how many I will need I feel like I will end up spending more that 200 on base coat spray cans and was wondering if I should do it with a spray gun if the paint would cost less
What are you spraying? What size object?
@@BradAngove a spoiler and a rear bumper lip that is half the size or a rear bumper
You would probably only need a quart or a couple spray cans for that. So it just depends on the price difference between those two wherever you’re buying it.
@@BradAngove thank you so much really appreciate it
Have you ever used auto air or createx paints or clears on a guitar?
Yes; many times.
So the answer is an absolute Yes, No, or Maybe!
Just like 90% of my answers haha
6th.
or... alternatively... just hear me out here... just a rag and a bottle of oil would do
It depends on what you want. Oil looks nice, but doesn’t offer any protection. That’s not necessarily a problem, but it’s also not particularly relevant to this video hah.
@@BradAngove protection from what, addition of character? ;)
I’d be interested to hear your take on helmets...
guitars don't need helmets, they don't have brains!