Thank you for this video and information. I have a similar vibrating shuttle machine and had no idea how to thread it. This helped tremendously. Thank you!
She's a lovely machine and I was so glad to see another one in operation! I'm slowly working on restoring an Eldredge-stamped Two Spool that belonged to my great-grandmother and passed to my grandmother. My great-grandfather added a Kenmore friction drive in 1949, making it quite a unique machine. I've completed cleaning and oiling everything, but I am debating reworking the finish: The shellac has become dry and cracked, though the decals are largely still intact. I don't expect it to look showroom perfect, but I don't want to lose what's still there. I've had a bit of practice on a Singer 15-91 recently, and have a White Family Rotary to also practice on, but still hesitant to tackle the family heirloom. I did have one question, though: Most motorized Two Spools I've seen have had some sort of a spring belt to wind the bobbin. My grandmother's machine hasn't been used in years and so the belt has gone missing. Did yours come with the original or have you ever had to replace one? I'm having a devil of a time figuring out what to get for a replacement! Any advice you might have would be appreciated!
Hi! And congratulations on getting a family heirloom! Shellac can be easily repaired. One of its great virtues is that even after a century of aging, it can be made to look almost like new simply by rubbing on a new coat of shellac. It'll dissolve the top layer of the old shellac and make it clear again. Search for 'how to restore a shellac finish' on UA-cam and you'll find many videos on how to do it. The spring was missing on our two-spool, just like yours. I found a long spring of the same diameter at a local hardware store, cut it to length and slipped it on. It works perfectly. I hope this helps. Thanks for commenting!
Thanks! I will take a peek at the local hardware store and see what I can find. I've seen a couple of videos discussing the cleaning & French polish of a sewing machine or two, just don't want to screw it up! This machine is too dear! I do hope I get brave before *too* much longer. It's past time to put the Eldredge back to work. =)
Thank you so much for sharing! I was completely stumped on threading my Eldredge Improved Rotary so this video was VERY helpful! Any suggestions on a cleaner for this machine? The surface of mine is very gummy and grimey and sewing machine oil isn't cutting through it.
I use warm, soapy water then clear water to remove and traces of soap. Thick, dark areas of dried oil can be difficult. Products like 409 or Krud Cutter can work, but are so aggressive they can attack the underlying artwork. I recommend starting in the right rear of the machine, were if something goes wrong, it'll be hard to see. Good luck and thanks for commenting!
Thank you for this video! I’m working on getting my grandmother’s Damascus Grand going. It seems to be a very close match to the way this one threads on the top, but I’m having problems with the bobbin. It has a rotary shuttle, or a bobbin that looks similar to a contemporary one. My top thread keeps getting hung up in the bobbin assembly. Do you have any ideas? Thank you in advance.
This sort of problem is impossible to diagnose without having the machine in hand. Your best option would be to take it to a sewing machine repair shop if one is available. The mechanism is close enough to modern machines that they should be able to fix it. Good luck!
Your only hope is to find one on EBAY, Pinterest, Etsy and so on. Sadly, spare parts for antiques are harder to locate than the machines themselves. Several times I've had to buy entire machines to get a replacement part. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful.
We found a Singer Industrial Class 7 bobbin works great in ours. This is a metal bobbin that needs thread to be wound onto it. I've read that the tiny bobbins in emergency sewing kits will work, but I've never tried them myself.
I have one and found standard Singer 15 x 1 needles will work, but you need to slip it down slightly. If you insert the needle as far up as it will go, the needle won't connect with the bobbin case. If too low, it'll strike the needle plate. Gotta find that Goldilocks spot!
I made ours out of two, 3.5-inch long, 0.25-inch diameter springs I got from a hardware store. Attaching the ends together made a loop that was almost perfect, but a little too short. So I pulled a section of one of the springs apart to make it 4-inches long, creating a spring belt that was 7.5-inches in overall length. It worked great. Depending on how your motor is mounted, you might need to experiment with the length to make it tight enough so the motor drives the machine, but not so tight that it stalls the motor. I hope this helps. Thanks for commenting!
I am trying to clean my Grandmother's two spool machine that went through a fire 53 years ago. It is smoke and soot damage. I have no idea how to clean this machine. It has the thread canister and everything seems to move but it is rusty and dirty. How do I clean it and still preserve the machine?
I may have some good news for you. These machines were protected with a thick layer of Japanning; an extremely tough baked-on finish of asphaltum, linseed oil and turpentine. Assuming the machine wasn't in direct flame, this finish could still be in good condition. Is there any remaining artwork still visible; gold filigree and the name of the machine? If so, then it wasn't in direct flame, which is good. Start by wiping the machine down with a soft cloth, Begin in an out-of-the-way location that won't be obvious if this causes the finish to flake off. If everything appears tight, go ahead and wipe off the rest of the machine. Assuming that goes okay, next make up a mild solution of dish soap and water and repeat the same procedure. This should not only clean off the soot but also any built-up grease and oil. Keep an eye on any artwork and stop if it looks like it's coming off. If there's no problem with this, repeat a few times until the surface appears clean . If there's still dirt and soot stuck on, you may need to try a stronger cleaner/degreaser like 409 or Krud Kutter, but be careful, these can attack the artwork and even the Japanning. Start with a 50-50 diluted mixture and again, test it in an out-of-the-way spot. This should get you started. Please let me know how this comes out. If you have any more questions feel free to ask, and thanks for commenting! Good luck!
I am very sorry I didn't respond to your post immediately, but UA-cam never informed me you had posted it. Do you mean the little wire spring with the loop at the end that's positioned between to two arms of the thread guide? If so, not, I don't know how to repair it. Your best bet is to take the machine to a sewing machine repair shop and ask them if they have something that can be bent to replace it. Good luck and thanks for commenting!
I got to thinking how someone could make a spring like that and I have an idea that might work. This is assuming it's the spring you were talking about. Go to a hobby store and buy a piece of 0.022-inch diameter wire (23, 24 or 25 gauge wire should be about right) used for model car and airplane control lines. You want the real stiff stuff. Wind it ten times around a 3/8-inch dowel. The spring will relax slightly when released to form a spring 1/2-inch in diameter. Trist one end into a hook to catch on the right side of the holder and leave 1 & 1/4 inch loose on the other end. Bend a 1/8-inch hook at the end of the straight tail. The shape should end up looking like the following image of the spring: waynesthisandthat.com/images/sm%20two%20spool%20spring.jpg Once that's done, the hard part will be getting it into the machine, which will required a lot of disassembly. Make sure to take several pictures of the insides before taking stuff out so you'll know how to to put everything back together. If it's not the spring that's broken, let me know what piece you're talking about and I'll try to figure something out. Two Spool machines are rare enough to be worth investing some effort into making yours work. Good luck!
It's pretty simple. Just apply a drop or two o oil anywhere there is a hole in the machine's body. For a more complete explanation, the following link to it's manual will show how: needlebar.org/main/manuals/eldredge2spool/1index.html I hope this helps and thanks for commenting!
I've read two articles stating that the tension kept having to be adjusted as the lower spool used zip its thread. The change in diameter was much greater than it is in a normal spool.
Hello again! I doubt even a printer that printed with metal could duplicate one of these cases because the side walls are very thin sheet metal. I'm not sure even industrial printers can go that fine. A good machines.sheet metal worker could reproduce one, but it would probably cost hundreds of dollars considering the cost of skilled labor these days. I suppose someone could fabricate one at home using sheet metal from a hardware store and some soldering/welding skills. But they would need an original first from which to take measurements.
@@wayneschmidt490 That’s a shame. Maybe someone will make a 3D scan of one for the record, just in case a new fabrication method is invented. Such a neat machine. Thanks for answering, I’ve been bingeing your channel, it’s wonderful. I hope comments help with the algorithm. 😍
@@mnelson9057 I noticed your comments are attached to the video about how to thread an Eldridge Two Spool instead of the first video about these machines. If you're interested in a little more information on them, you may enjoy the following video: ua-cam.com/video/vyX2hayYxr0/v-deo.html One issue I failed to mention is that as nice as the two spool idea sounded, it failed to catch on with the public. The problems were that there were many spool shapes and sizes at the time while the Eldridge could only accommodate one and that because of the large loop of thread needed to wrap around the spool, the machines tension adjustment was tricky and often drifted off.
Thank you for this video and information. I have a similar vibrating shuttle machine and had no idea how to thread it. This helped tremendously. Thank you!
She's a lovely machine and I was so glad to see another one in operation! I'm slowly working on restoring an Eldredge-stamped Two Spool that belonged to my great-grandmother and passed to my grandmother. My great-grandfather added a Kenmore friction drive in 1949, making it quite a unique machine. I've completed cleaning and oiling everything, but I am debating reworking the finish: The shellac has become dry and cracked, though the decals are largely still intact. I don't expect it to look showroom perfect, but I don't want to lose what's still there. I've had a bit of practice on a Singer 15-91 recently, and have a White Family Rotary to also practice on, but still hesitant to tackle the family heirloom.
I did have one question, though: Most motorized Two Spools I've seen have had some sort of a spring belt to wind the bobbin. My grandmother's machine hasn't been used in years and so the belt has gone missing. Did yours come with the original or have you ever had to replace one? I'm having a devil of a time figuring out what to get for a replacement! Any advice you might have would be appreciated!
Hi! And congratulations on getting a family heirloom! Shellac can be easily repaired. One of its great virtues is that even after a century of aging, it can be made to look almost like new simply by rubbing on a new coat of shellac. It'll dissolve the top layer of the old shellac and make it clear again. Search for 'how to restore a shellac finish' on UA-cam and you'll find many videos on how to do it. The spring was missing on our two-spool, just like yours. I found a long spring of the same diameter at a local hardware store, cut it to length and slipped it on. It works perfectly. I hope this helps. Thanks for commenting!
Thanks! I will take a peek at the local hardware store and see what I can find.
I've seen a couple of videos discussing the cleaning & French polish of a sewing machine or two, just don't want to screw it up! This machine is too dear! I do hope I get brave before *too* much longer. It's past time to put the Eldredge back to work. =)
Thank you so much for sharing! I was completely stumped on threading my Eldredge Improved Rotary so this video was VERY helpful! Any suggestions on a cleaner for this machine? The surface of mine is very gummy and grimey and sewing machine oil isn't cutting through it.
I use warm, soapy water then clear water to remove and traces of soap. Thick, dark areas of dried oil can be difficult. Products like 409 or Krud Cutter can work, but are so aggressive they can attack the underlying artwork. I recommend starting in the right rear of the machine, were if something goes wrong, it'll be hard to see. Good luck and thanks for commenting!
Thank you for this video!
I’m working on getting my grandmother’s Damascus Grand going. It seems to be a very close match to the way this one threads on the top, but I’m having problems with the bobbin. It has a rotary shuttle, or a bobbin that looks similar to a contemporary one. My top thread keeps getting hung up in the bobbin assembly. Do you have any ideas? Thank you in advance.
This sort of problem is impossible to diagnose without having the machine in hand. Your best option would be to take it to a sewing machine repair shop if one is available. The mechanism is close enough to modern machines that they should be able to fix it. Good luck!
Do you know we’re I can get a bobbin and bobbin case for the one made in the1890s? Thank you so much for this video!
Your only hope is to find one on EBAY, Pinterest, Etsy and so on. Sadly, spare parts for antiques are harder to locate than the machines themselves. Several times I've had to buy entire machines to get a replacement part. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful.
Do you know if there's a modern brand of spool thread that fits in this canister bobbin case or should I hunt down vintage spools on eBay?
We found a Singer Industrial Class 7 bobbin works great in ours. This is a metal bobbin that needs thread to be wound onto it. I've read that the tiny bobbins in emergency sewing kits will work, but I've never tried them myself.
Great full
Thank you! It's odd, UA-cam never informed me about the two posts on this video.
Great video. Is it still possible to buy needles for this sewing machine? Thank you!
I believe a Singer 15x1 needle will work. Good luck, and thanks for commenting!
I have one and found standard Singer 15 x 1 needles will work, but you need to slip it down slightly. If you insert the needle as far up as it will go, the needle won't connect with the bobbin case. If too low, it'll strike the needle plate. Gotta find that Goldilocks spot!
Can you tell me what size belt I need?
I made ours out of two, 3.5-inch long, 0.25-inch diameter springs I got from a hardware store. Attaching the ends together made a loop that was almost perfect, but a little too short. So I pulled a section of one of the springs apart to make it 4-inches long, creating a spring belt that was 7.5-inches in overall length. It worked great. Depending on how your motor is mounted, you might need to experiment with the length to make it tight enough so the motor drives the machine, but not so tight that it stalls the motor. I hope this helps. Thanks for commenting!
I am trying to clean my Grandmother's two spool machine that went through a fire 53 years ago. It is smoke and soot damage. I have no idea how to clean this machine. It has the thread canister and everything seems to move but it is rusty and dirty. How do I clean it and still preserve the machine?
I may have some good news for you. These machines were protected with a thick layer of Japanning; an extremely tough baked-on finish of asphaltum, linseed oil and turpentine. Assuming the machine wasn't in direct flame, this finish could still be in good condition. Is there any remaining artwork still visible; gold filigree and the name of the machine? If so, then it wasn't in direct flame, which is good. Start by wiping the machine down with a soft cloth, Begin in an out-of-the-way location that won't be obvious if this causes the finish to flake off. If everything appears tight, go ahead and wipe off the rest of the machine. Assuming that goes okay, next make up a mild solution of dish soap and water and repeat the same procedure. This should not only clean off the soot but also any built-up grease and oil. Keep an eye on any artwork and stop if it looks like it's coming off. If there's no problem with this, repeat a few times until the surface appears clean . If there's still dirt and soot stuck on, you may need to try a stronger cleaner/degreaser like 409 or Krud Kutter, but be careful, these can attack the artwork and even the Japanning. Start with a 50-50 diluted mixture and again, test it in an out-of-the-way spot. This should get you started. Please let me know how this comes out. If you have any more questions feel free to ask, and thanks for commenting! Good luck!
Can you make a video on how to repair that round part in 1:05
I am very sorry I didn't respond to your post immediately, but UA-cam never informed me you had posted it. Do you mean the little wire spring with the loop at the end that's positioned between to two arms of the thread guide? If so, not, I don't know how to repair it. Your best bet is to take the machine to a sewing machine repair shop and ask them if they have something that can be bent to replace it. Good luck and thanks for commenting!
@@wayneschmidt490 Oh I see. It's okay. No worries and thank you for replying.
I got to thinking how someone could make a spring like that and I have an idea that might work. This is assuming it's the spring you were talking about. Go to a hobby store and buy a piece of 0.022-inch diameter wire (23, 24 or 25 gauge wire should be about right) used for model car and airplane control lines. You want the real stiff stuff. Wind it ten times around a 3/8-inch dowel. The spring will relax slightly when released to form a spring 1/2-inch in diameter. Trist one end into a hook to catch on the right side of the holder and leave 1 & 1/4 inch loose on the other end. Bend a 1/8-inch hook at the end of the straight tail. The shape should end up looking like the following image of the spring:
waynesthisandthat.com/images/sm%20two%20spool%20spring.jpg
Once that's done, the hard part will be getting it into the machine, which will required a lot of disassembly. Make sure to take several pictures of the insides before taking stuff out so you'll know how to to put everything back together.
If it's not the spring that's broken, let me know what piece you're talking about and I'll try to figure something out. Two Spool machines are rare enough to be worth investing some effort into making yours work. Good luck!
Can you show how to oil it
It's pretty simple. Just apply a drop or two o oil anywhere there is a hole in the machine's body. For a more complete explanation, the following link to it's manual will show how:
needlebar.org/main/manuals/eldredge2spool/1index.html
I hope this helps and thanks for commenting!
Do you know why the two spool didn't catch on
I've read two articles stating that the tension kept having to be adjusted as the lower spool used zip its thread. The change in diameter was much greater than it is in a normal spool.
Were these popular in factories
@@graceygal2664 I don't know. I've never come across any articles that said they were.
Can’t someone 3D print that canister, or can a machinist or craftsman make some? Someone should try! Thanks for showing this.
Hello again! I doubt even a printer that printed with metal could duplicate one of these cases because the side walls are very thin sheet metal. I'm not sure even industrial printers can go that fine. A good machines.sheet metal worker could reproduce one, but it would probably cost hundreds of dollars considering the cost of skilled labor these days. I suppose someone could fabricate one at home using sheet metal from a hardware store and some soldering/welding skills. But they would need an original first from which to take measurements.
@@wayneschmidt490 That’s a shame. Maybe someone will make a 3D scan of one for the record, just in case a new fabrication method is invented. Such a neat machine. Thanks for answering, I’ve been bingeing your channel, it’s wonderful. I hope comments help with the algorithm. 😍
@@mnelson9057 I noticed your comments are attached to the video about how to thread an Eldridge Two Spool instead of the first video about these machines. If you're interested in a little more information on them, you may enjoy the following video:
ua-cam.com/video/vyX2hayYxr0/v-deo.html
One issue I failed to mention is that as nice as the two spool idea sounded, it failed to catch on with the public. The problems were that there were many spool shapes and sizes at the time while the Eldridge could only accommodate one and that because of the large loop of thread needed to wrap around the spool, the machines tension adjustment was tricky and often drifted off.