This method is so dang effective! I tried with just a hollow ground tips on my Singer 15-91 motor mounts, and with how much I was pulling on the machine towards me and twisting, you would have laughed, or wanted to yell to stop haha. I got the right tools, and doing exactly what you did in the video the screws came loose so easy! Absolutely astounding! Thank you.
Very instructive, thank you, Ray! Brass hammer - Jewelry supplies. Some screws are not rusty but gummed up from old hardened machine oil and disuse. What works on these is Carburetor cleaner, degreaser, penetrating oil which unsticks the old oil. It is more resistant to your methods as gummy oil is flexible and holds on tight. Heat gun also helps. The best penetrating oil as tested by Project Farm on Utube is Acetone 50:50 Auto Transmission Fluid oil. Mix in jar. Heat up metal screws (no plastic) and apply onto screw. Let soak in day after day till screw is loose. Work to remove old gummed up oil. Carb cleaner also works.
Great thanks! I’ve got several I need to tackle. I appreciate the information on the wrench. As soon as I saw where you were going with it I had an idea of what you were doing. Thanks!
I absolutely agree with you on the proper screwdrivers. I see a lot of industrial sewing machine mechanics who seem quite knowledgeable but as soon as they bring out the tapered screwdrivers, I run the other way. Can't get out of there quick enough. Screw slots are square, not tapered. If they are coming to a screw with the screwdriver at an angle, they are also using the wrong tool. Some people just don't care and others simply don't know any better. When I see the screw slots all stretched out of shape on a machine, I think some hack has had a hold of this one. It reminds me of taking your car in for a tuneup and finding out after that the engine runs fine but the front fenders are scratched because the mechanic didn't bother protecting them with a cover.
Thank you! This worked! I used a kalimba tuning hammer. I bought a vintage Singer Stylist machine and I haven't been able to get inside until now because I worried about using anything other than oil that might damage the light blue paint.
Thank you! I followed your instructions to the letter...except the hammer...I used the smallest one I could find and was very gentle and wowza it worked! I am so grateful...I’ve been trying for days to loosen two screws on two separate machines...which I bought for £5 each...their the cruddiest, dirtiest machines I’ve ever dealt with (newby! only 20 machines haha!) thank you!
Wonderful review! I just attended the Sew Purty workshop and there was such a wealth of information I couldn’t absorb and remember it all. Nice refresher video. Thank you Ray!
Thank you Ray- I have what I think is the machine that seems to be the same model and in the same condition. So excited to see this bobbin case layout!
Any tips for removing the screw at the back of the faceplate by the presser foot? I have very limited tools at my disposal, unfortunately. I have tried tapping it with a hammer to no avail, but it is impossible to get a good connection because of where it's at. My machine is actually not rusty at all, in great condition and runs beautifully, but I think there is some old fluff around the feed dogs and I cannot get in there to clean it out (or even to check that's the issue) as they suddenly began feeding in a circle. I've only had the machin just over a month and used a few times. Just can't get that darn screw out!
Thank you Ray, for all your advice. May I ask for your help in loosening the thumb screw which holds the needle in place, I'd like to treat my old girl to a shiny new needle but I can't get that screw loose. Thanks so much
What about getting a stuck allen set screw loose on a steel collar / steel drive gear in the sewing machine running gear / transmission shafts? How would you do that? Heat the collar up with a butane torch, I'm thinking, maybe? I've got that problem with one I'm trying to replace the gears on. Thanks!
Yeah I'll use heat when it is necessary, torch or heat gun. Some try hair dryer but they don't do that great because it heats slow and the heat transfers into the surrounding metal and doesn't allow concentration. I've had better luck though with just a straight stick of the correct size hex shaft, applying torque with either an adjustable wrench or small vise grips, and firm tapping on the end of the hex shaft with a hammer. It's helpful to have a few extra Allen wrenches to cut off the bend and have straight pieces to use. Something I've used a lot is socket head extractors. They have a tapered hex on the end that can be tapped into the screw head while applying torque. They're not cheap, but you'll rarely find a screw these won't loosen. Check out www.mcmaster.com/2643A42 If you're willing to do some careful belt sanding or filing, take an Allen wrench one size larger than what would fit in the screw you're trying to remove, and taper the tip enough it can be tapped tight into the screw
What do I do about the the small clutch knob in the center of the handwheel that simply will not budge. I just can't move it. I've learned a few new words trying to get it to turn.
well a good pair of adjustable pliers (Channelocks) and a strip of leather would be my first go. Put the leather on the knob to prevent the pliers from scratching the knurled area and try to turn it. Tapping on the knob while trying to turn it might also help, but use a block of wood against it to strike with the hammer. Never hit the machine directly with the hammer. Well, at least not until you have had all you can take and there are no more new words to learn. By the way, what kid of machine are you working on?
How do I remove the eccentric bolt from a 1906 singer 27 bobbin winding main gear? I've only manage to get he nut off the back and the small screw that holds the cam in place.
hi Ray i have a singer model 15- and i just bought it it was stuck like frozen and i remedied that, but i thread it and as soon as i try to pick up the bobbin thread it is impossible it's stuck like it's jammed would you please help is it the bobbin or timing or what can it be please help if possible . Thank you Luigi DeLucia
hello you have some good infomation. my problem is i have a 66 that turns and everything is loose exept the footbar that is stuck solid in the down position and it dont matter what i do i cant get it to budge dont no if you have any ideas for that ive tried penetrating oil sewing machine oil and then in anger i hammered the top so now it is completley stuck down on the needleplate so i cant take the needleplate off now either. its really frustrating because there is nothing else wrong with the machine except for the fact that the footbar is frozen solid. and i really dont want to scrap it if there is any way i can save it and get it to work again.
well, I get a lot of those like that and first thing I do is remove the screw(s) inside the face plate that hold the lift mechanism and the presser foot bar together. On the 66 there is a small screw that goes through and into the presser bar and a second screw beside it, it will be the screw on the left you need to remove. If at all possibly, take the presser foot off if you haven't already. There is a flat area there that is just right to tighten down a small adjustable wrench (Crescent wrench). Make sure it is snug. Now start trying to turn the bar while you tap the top of it with either a brass hammer or, if you don't have a brass hammer, get help and use a regular hammer with a small block of wood on top of the bar. Brass hammer works better though, as the wood will absorb a lot of the shock and you won't get the same result. Don't hit it hard, tap it like I tapped the driver in the video. Try turning it with the wrench first one way and then the other, while tapping on the bar at the top. I usually see results right away when I do this, but if it still doesn't move then try heat. I prefer a heat gun as opposed to a hair dryer because quick and uneven heat (with a heat gun) causes uneven expansion of the metal parts and more likely to make them turn loose of each other. You should be able to get it to start turning with what I've described. I honestly cannot remember one that this method did not break the bar loose and do it fairly quickly. Once it is turning, use the wrench to twist is back and forth as you work it upward. You might have to work it up and down as you twist, and add some more sewing machine oil too where the bar goes through the bottom of the housing. When you have worked it up high enough that there is 1/2" or more sticking out the top, take the wrench off and get a drill, preferably one with a clutch where you can control how hard it twists the bar .Make sure the drill is on the lowest speed, and chuck the drill snug on the top of the bar. Bump the trigger, making sure that the bar turns and the chuck isn't slipping on it. Only tighten the chuck enough to turn the bar. A drill chuck will damage the plating on your presser bar if you tighten it too tight, but it will also damage it if it spins on the bar. That is why I say bump the trigger first to make sure you re spinning the bar. Once the bar spins with the drill (and make sure you have oiled the bar where it goes through the bottom of the housing) start spinning the bar and moving it up and down at the same time. As you raise the bar while it is spinning, you will likely feel it try to get harder to spin. Keep the drill running and lower the bar, then raise it again, all the while keeping it spinning. Every time you raise it, the bar should come a little farther out. They usually come right out. I can't promise yours will, but keep in mind that what you are doing is working it loose a little at a time. It's not just going to immediately be loose and come out once it moves. It takes a little patience. Let me know if this doesn't work for you. I think I have a couple scrap 66 machines in the shop that have stuck presser bars and I can set one up and make a video of this process.
Thank you for such a detailed response to one of your viewer's questions. Didn't see a reply from him/her to let you know the results. Appreciate your effort.
Similar problem here with the needle bar. While working with leather, the needle bar suddenly descended and now, the needle fastener hits the roof and can't make a full cycle. The screw on the needle bar is badly damaged from failed attempts at getting it loose. Any way to contact you? My model is a 1950s Singer, and getting professional help and getting replacements is all but possible, thanks to quarantine.
There's nothing wrong with using WD-40 on rusted screws. You can still use a good screwdriver and a hammer on it. WD-40 can not hurt anything, it can only help.
There's nothing right about it either. WD-40 is good for what it's good for, but since it will not dissolve and soften hardened oil in a sewing machine very good (if at all). Sewing machine oil, on the other hand, will do exactly that. WD-40 is a water displacer.😉
Just subscribed today,12/21/20 !! I have 2 vintage Singers, 201/2 and 66treadle. Ran across your site today, am 88 yrs young, hard of hearing...even with hearing aids...but could easily hear your voice! You are now my teacher! Not too good on comp, ...My 66 is # G9745490...can you tell me how old it is? Thx.... Have cleaned, oiled it, before I found you...hope to learn a lot more, before my bucket kicks me? lol Please guide me how to use your site fully. Have many questions, but you may have many who can answer them ...not just you?THX. Carol in Mo.
Thank you so much! Just used this technique, after having all kinds of tools out. This worked like a charm.
This method is so dang effective! I tried with just a hollow ground tips on my Singer 15-91 motor mounts, and with how much I was pulling on the machine towards me and twisting, you would have laughed, or wanted to yell to stop haha. I got the right tools, and doing exactly what you did in the video the screws came loose so easy! Absolutely astounding! Thank you.
Thanks! Worked in 2 minutes
Very instructive, thank you, Ray!
Brass hammer - Jewelry supplies.
Some screws are not rusty but gummed up from old hardened machine oil and disuse. What works on these is Carburetor cleaner, degreaser, penetrating oil which unsticks the old oil. It is more resistant to your methods as gummy oil is flexible and holds on tight.
Heat gun also helps.
The best penetrating oil as tested by Project Farm on Utube is Acetone 50:50 Auto Transmission Fluid oil. Mix in jar. Heat up metal screws (no plastic) and apply onto screw. Let soak in day after day till screw is loose. Work to remove old gummed up oil. Carb cleaner also works.
Excellent tutorial. Thank you
Great thanks! I’ve got several I need to tackle. I appreciate the information on the wrench. As soon as I saw where you were going with it I had an idea of what you were doing. Thanks!
Very helpful, thank you!
I absolutely agree with you on the proper screwdrivers. I see a lot of industrial sewing machine mechanics who seem quite knowledgeable but as soon as they bring out the tapered screwdrivers, I run the other way. Can't get out of there quick enough. Screw slots are square, not tapered. If they are coming to a screw with the screwdriver at an angle, they are also using the wrong tool. Some people just don't care and others simply don't know any better. When I see the screw slots all stretched out of shape on a machine, I think some hack has had a hold of this one. It reminds me of taking your car in for a tuneup and finding out after that the engine runs fine but the front fenders are scratched because the mechanic didn't bother protecting them with a cover.
Very well said!
Thank you! This worked! I used a kalimba tuning hammer. I bought a vintage Singer Stylist machine and I haven't been able to get inside until now because I worried about using anything other than oil that might damage the light blue paint.
Thank you! I followed your instructions to the letter...except the hammer...I used the smallest one I could find and was very gentle and wowza it worked! I am so grateful...I’ve been trying for days to loosen two screws on two separate machines...which I bought for £5 each...their the cruddiest, dirtiest machines I’ve ever dealt with (newby! only 20 machines haha!) thank you!
I just love these old Singers. Built in America and built to last.
Wonderful review! I just attended the Sew Purty workshop and there was such a wealth of information I couldn’t absorb and remember it all. Nice refresher video. Thank you Ray!
Thank you Ray- I have what I think is the machine that seems to be the same model and in the same condition. So excited to see this bobbin case layout!
Any tips for removing the screw at the back of the faceplate by the presser foot? I have very limited tools at my disposal, unfortunately. I have tried tapping it with a hammer to no avail, but it is impossible to get a good connection because of where it's at. My machine is actually not rusty at all, in great condition and runs beautifully, but I think there is some old fluff around the feed dogs and I cannot get in there to clean it out (or even to check that's the issue) as they suddenly began feeding in a circle. I've only had the machin just over a month and used a few times. Just can't get that darn screw out!
Thank you Ray, for all your advice. May I ask for your help in loosening the thumb screw which holds the needle in place, I'd like to treat my old girl to a shiny new needle but I can't get that screw loose. Thanks so much
Loop a piece of leather around the head and then grip with a small pair of adjustable pliers.
@@rayelkins7872 thanks Ray I'd never have thought of that, much appreciated
Hey ray I’m trying to loosen the needle screw it moves a lil nothing. Can’t get the thing off to change my needle
What about getting a stuck allen set screw loose on a steel collar / steel drive gear in the sewing machine running gear / transmission shafts? How would you do that? Heat the collar up with a butane torch, I'm thinking, maybe? I've got that problem with one I'm trying to replace the gears on. Thanks!
Yeah I'll use heat when it is necessary, torch or heat gun. Some try hair dryer but they don't do that great because it heats slow and the heat transfers into the surrounding metal and doesn't allow concentration.
I've had better luck though with just a straight stick of the correct size hex shaft, applying torque with either an adjustable wrench or small vise grips, and firm tapping on the end of the hex shaft with a hammer. It's helpful to have a few extra Allen wrenches to cut off the bend and have straight pieces to use.
Something I've used a lot is socket head extractors. They have a tapered hex on the end that can be tapped into the screw head while applying torque. They're not cheap, but you'll rarely find a screw these won't loosen. Check out www.mcmaster.com/2643A42
If you're willing to do some careful belt sanding or filing, take an Allen wrench one size larger than what would fit in the screw you're trying to remove, and taper the tip enough it can be tapped tight into the screw
@@rayelkins7872 Great suggestions, tips, Ray! Thank you very much! I'll try them!! Thanks for taking the time to answer that so well! God bless.
What do I do about the the small clutch knob in the center of the handwheel that simply will not budge. I just can't move it. I've learned a few new words trying to get it to turn.
well a good pair of adjustable pliers (Channelocks) and a strip of leather would be my first go. Put the leather on the knob to prevent the pliers from scratching the knurled area and try to turn it. Tapping on the knob while trying to turn it might also help, but use a block of wood against it to strike with the hammer. Never hit the machine directly with the hammer. Well, at least not until you have had all you can take and there are no more new words to learn. By the way, what kid of machine are you working on?
It's a 66-16, It's birthdate is 1941, same as me.
I'm sorry, it's not a 66-16. It's a 1922 Singer 66. It sew well but the blasted clutch knob just will not budge!
Thank you I will try that.
How do I remove the eccentric bolt from a 1906 singer 27 bobbin winding main gear? I've only manage to get he nut off the back and the small screw that holds the cam in place.
If the nut is off you'll just need to work the screw loose. Nothing holding it other than the nut
hi Ray i have a singer model 15- and i just bought it it was stuck like frozen and i remedied that, but i thread it and as soon as i try to pick up the bobbin thread it is impossible it's stuck like it's jammed would you please help is it the bobbin or timing or what can it be please help if possible . Thank you Luigi DeLucia
hello you have some good infomation. my problem is i have a 66 that turns and everything is loose exept the footbar that is stuck solid in the down position and it dont matter what i do i cant get it to budge dont no if you have any ideas for that ive tried penetrating oil sewing machine oil and then in anger i hammered the top so now it is completley stuck down on the needleplate so i cant take the needleplate off now either. its really frustrating because there is nothing else wrong with the machine except for the fact that the footbar is frozen solid. and i really dont want to scrap it if there is any way i can save it and get it to work again.
well, I get a lot of those like that and first thing I do is remove the screw(s) inside the face plate that hold the lift mechanism and the presser foot bar together. On the 66 there is a small screw that goes through and into the presser bar and a second screw beside it, it will be the screw on the left you need to remove.
If at all possibly, take the presser foot off if you haven't already. There is a flat area there that is just right to tighten down a small adjustable wrench (Crescent wrench). Make sure it is snug. Now start trying to turn the bar while you tap the top of it with either a brass hammer or, if you don't have a brass hammer, get help and use a regular hammer with a small block of wood on top of the bar. Brass hammer works better though, as the wood will absorb a lot of the shock and you won't get the same result. Don't hit it hard, tap it like I tapped the driver in the video. Try turning it with the wrench first one way and then the other, while tapping on the bar at the top. I usually see results right away when I do this, but if it still doesn't move then try heat. I prefer a heat gun as opposed to a hair dryer because quick and uneven heat (with a heat gun) causes uneven expansion of the metal parts and more likely to make them turn loose of each other.
You should be able to get it to start turning with what I've described. I honestly cannot remember one that this method did not break the bar loose and do it fairly quickly. Once it is turning, use the wrench to twist is back and forth as you work it upward. You might have to work it up and down as you twist, and add some more sewing machine oil too where the bar goes through the bottom of the housing. When you have worked it up high enough that there is 1/2" or more sticking out the top, take the wrench off and get a drill, preferably one with a clutch where you can control how hard it twists the bar .Make sure the drill is on the lowest speed, and chuck the drill snug on the top of the bar. Bump the trigger, making sure that the bar turns and the chuck isn't slipping on it. Only tighten the chuck enough to turn the bar. A drill chuck will damage the plating on your presser bar if you tighten it too tight, but it will also damage it if it spins on the bar. That is why I say bump the trigger first to make sure you re spinning the bar. Once the bar spins with the drill (and make sure you have oiled the bar where it goes through the bottom of the housing) start spinning the bar and moving it up and down at the same time. As you raise the bar while it is spinning, you will likely feel it try to get harder to spin. Keep the drill running and lower the bar, then raise it again, all the while keeping it spinning. Every time you raise it, the bar should come a little farther out. They usually come right out. I can't promise yours will, but keep in mind that what you are doing is working it loose a little at a time. It's not just going to immediately be loose and come out once it moves. It takes a little patience.
Let me know if this doesn't work for you. I think I have a couple scrap 66 machines in the shop that have stuck presser bars and I can set one up and make a video of this process.
Thank you for such a detailed response to one of your viewer's questions. Didn't see a reply from him/her to let you know the results. Appreciate your effort.
The scew where the needle is set to sew have been seized and my Mother buy over that machine since 1985 and that was made in 1960
What if the gap isn’t deep enough and you’re starting to strip it and it’s an an angle, not down like this one🤦♀️
Can I use this method to get my needle bar screw loose? I think the needle bar is twisted bit.
Since there are so many variables, I'd need to know what kind of machine we are talking about before I can confidently answer that question.
Similar problem here with the needle bar. While working with leather, the needle bar suddenly descended and now, the needle fastener hits the roof and can't make a full cycle. The screw on the needle bar is badly damaged from failed attempts at getting it loose.
Any way to contact you? My model is a 1950s Singer, and getting professional help and getting replacements is all but possible, thanks to quarantine.
There's nothing wrong with using WD-40 on rusted screws. You can still use a good screwdriver and a hammer on it. WD-40 can not hurt anything, it can only help.
There's nothing right about it either. WD-40 is good for what it's good for, but since it will not dissolve and soften hardened oil in a sewing machine very good (if at all). Sewing machine oil, on the other hand, will do exactly that. WD-40 is a water displacer.😉
@@rayelkins7872
Surely there is something right about it.
WD-40 is used by everybody from a watchmaker to a mechanic, and everyone in between.
@@Drottninggatan2017 "everybody"? 😂 Not quite! There are those who fall for the marketing hype and those who know better.😉
Just subscribed today,12/21/20 !! I have 2 vintage Singers, 201/2 and 66treadle. Ran across your site today, am 88 yrs young, hard of hearing...even with hearing aids...but could easily hear your voice! You are now my teacher! Not too good on comp, ...My 66 is # G9745490...can you tell me how old it is? Thx.... Have cleaned, oiled it, before I found you...hope to learn a lot more, before my bucket kicks me? lol Please guide me how to use your site fully. Have many questions, but you may have many who can answer them ...not just you?THX. Carol in Mo.
Thank you! Remember JESUS CHRIST Shall Return 1Thessalonians 4:13-18; Chapter 5; Ephesians 6:10-18; Acts 1:8; 2:1-4; Chapter 10; 19;1-7; John 3:1-8; 16:7; Luke 11:9-13. 🙏